@@0utcast the way you're going off in your comments says a lot more about YOU than your comments say about chris. Fuck off outta here if you don't like the mans content. Pathetic little bitch.
@@0utcast Apparently you've never had fun with vehicles. Engines run under water hence the reason there are snorkels for vehicles. If your engine has issues after something as simple as washing it then you need to fix your blown out stuff.
Oh btw guys engines are made waterproof because water gets in them when it rains😂he’s using a pressure washer for gods sake he is blasting it with like 500-1000 psi no shit it’s gonna fault the electrical
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust th-cam.com/users/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
I wash mine all the time and I have a plug to coil deep socket engine the worst to clean I simply spray degreeser on the sides of the engine and on the rag and wipe on the top never had a problem never used water
Back in 98 I bought a brand new Civic. Drove it for 14 years and after every winter I power washed the engine. Never had any problems. Not once.I guess... do at your own risk.Thank you for the video.
What I've learned is that Honda, Toyota, and General Motor vehicles are the best for washing the engine bays. They seemed to have figured out the water sealing practice almost perfectly. Sadly the worst by a long shot is Dodge and Range Rover. I've also noticed that some Jaguar's tend to fail but that was on like only two or three of them.
Yep. I replaced the Civic with a new car and I am driving this one 11th year. Cars are a waste of money. Buy the best one you can. Take care of it and drive it to the end.
I thought to mention that I have washed engines for years and would like to suggest a couple of tips which have kept me out of trouble. 1. Wash with engine off - this is more of a safety issue (don’t want to accidently get the spray caught in moving parts - yea I know but, it happens 2. Never wash your engine if it’s extremely hot. I always drive it just enough to warm it to operating temp. If a hot day wait with hood open to let engine cool 3. Cover that alternator. It is designed to live in the real world but try not to soak it. 4. Pretreatment is highly recommended unless engine is just dusty - this will shorten the spry time 5. When washing over electrical components release the trigger to get a softer spray 6. After your done take the car out for a 15 -20 min drive. This will dry everything faster to avoid problems with water seeping into things 7. Finally, thank you Eric!!! for helping all of us be better techs (even better shade tree mechanics like me ;-) - hope you guys find this helpful
@@casz7098 I would suggest avoiding any spay wax. If you want to polish plastic parts use the "back to Black" treatment on a shop rag then apply a couple of coats seems to work for me. Hope that helps a bit. Thanks again for all of your videos - I am learning a lot from you.
I painted my 04 TL's head covers & intake plenum cover with Rust-Oleum's caliper paint (red). This paint does not require primer, and is very robust. Brakes get hotter than engine so there is no concern for high-heat (except for exhaust components). Honda's head cover paint is notorious for deteriorating, as well as head cover seal allowing engine oil to leak.
So does tire dressing.....which I put on my engine compartment a few times a year and a good soaking in the fall. It is silicone, keeps the salt from destroying everything, keeps rubber and plastic parts from degrading.
Boonus18 haha so true. i did this on my old mustang, and f150. had to blow the coils n plugs with compressed air. but my lbz, tl and silverado isn't a problem. idk why.
I recently just acquired a 02 Explorer V8 4.6 and washed the engine. Luckily I didn't screw it up like a lot of people do because I did it 5 miles from home lol
I live on a dirt road. Washing the underhood of my vehicles is a nearly a monthly routine.. Doesn't hurt a thing, just use common sense as to what you are spraying.. Easy enough.
Yep! If you have a clue what's under the hood, then you should have some idea what NOT to get wet. Use plastic bags or something to cover those areas, if necessary. It's not hard. That said, I personally prefer to use Simple Green and a power washer. Set the spray tip for a "fan" spray, and you shouldn't have to worry as much about forcing water into stuff.
The Kansas Dude Yeah, I drove through a dust storm and HAD to wash the engine bay. if your car can't handle a little water, that company should just stop producing cars.
I agree Dodge should stop producing cars haha. Seriously though, if any company needs to learn the meaning of weatherproof, Dodge does. Their connectors seem to corrode worse than any other company and they place computers in super vulnerable spots.
When I wash my engine, I start with the engine cold, then spray a good dose (can or two depending on the dirt) of a good degreaser and let it soak for a while, then rinse it off well, then start it to let it get hot and dry off. Works good. Just be careful of the air box and fuses.
when i wash my engine compartment I cover sensitive electronic components with plastic, disconnecting the battery also and blast compressed air to help it dry. i dont use pressurized water because it forces water too much. Then i drive the car for a time.
jim c. I am usually very reluctant to wash the engine; but when it's necessary, I make sure the engine is warm (not hot = no cracking things) to help dry the pockets of water and never use high pressure on electrical boxes/connections.
If you drive your car in the rain, you can bet your ass your engine compartment gets wet (this is why electrical connectors have the rubber seals inside them, weatherproof for a reason). Some cars have the alternator mounted at the bottom, like my G8, and it's just fine in the rain. On top of that, after doing everything you're afraid of, Eric's Integra still runs just fine. :shocking:
Jeff Smith Eric did say proceed with caution. theres also a difference between driving a car in the rain and having your whole engine compartment from being hosed on top. Some do get lucky some dont =]
It's like Scotty Kilmer said about washing the engine..."you don't eat your lunch under there!!" That being said been washing my engine for years. I like it looking clean.
That's awesome. I did a video on this topic and got water in some expired crappy plug wires in a straight 4 with deep plug wells. Misfires ensued, so I used the opportunity to show how to correct it. Glad it worked out for you. I do this practice all the time as a clean freak and have had results like you show here 99.999% of the time. Basically if the parts that keep water out are good, you're good. If those parts are bad or fail, you've got work to do with an air nozzle.
Working as a detailer in both an auto auction and collision center I feel compelled to give a few tips: 1, be aware of how long you are hosing your engines off. The longer you are in the engine bay, the more likely you are to potentially damage things. 2, spraying the bay in an H-pattern (start by standing next to the left fender and spraying everything at that angle, then front bumper area, and finish from the right fender) seems to work best for overall coverage of the bay. 3, if you own a Dodge Ram or Range Rover of ANY model, do NOT wash your engine bay with water! THERE ARE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THAT ARE NOT SEALED VERY WELL AND IF THEY GET WET THE WATER WILL CAUSE THE MAIN COMPUTER TO FAIL COSTING YOU THOUSANDS. The best way to wash those vehicles are by using a degreaser-type spray cleaner and rags. If you still want to risk washing them, do so with light amounts of water and at your own desegregation. 4, do not wash the engine more than twice a year. Doing so will cause premature failure to gaskets, hoses, and lightweight plastic. I had several air hoses on my old pathfinder crack and fail from washing the engine bay too often and learned this tip from that mistake lol. 5, try to let your engine cool off some before you wash it, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE COLD WATER. If not it will raise the risk of the engine block cracking and/or failing. 6, please wear safety glasses and older clothes. Doing so will prevent things like paint (see Eric's engine), oil, rust, and other debris from getting into your eyes. Also, wearing the older clothes will lower the chance of ruining good clothes from oils and solvents as they splash onto you, which I promise, will happen. :-)
What is it with people and dirty engines? It's perfectly safe to do so, if you have a mechanical thing designed to run in all weather exposed to the outside world and it goes bad to a few sprinkles of water, then it has a problem and it needs to be fixed. All electrical connections are water-proofed and the engine itself is an isolated machine with no connection to the outside other than the air intake and exhaust. If I was a mechanic I'd charge extra for working on dirty engines.
*water resistant Try submerging your engine bay in a lake and see how that works out for you. Electrical connections are designed to be okay from light mists and sprays due to rain getting in through the grills as well as water bouncing up from the ground. That does not mean that they are designed to withstand a constantly stream of water or a high PSI of water being jet blasted directly onto them. Further even if the connectors do work after you run the risk of shortening their life span as water proofing degrades over time (same reason we repair and rebuild dams). Consider that water is not the problem but all the minerals and contaminants that it contains. Those minerals build up in the connectors over time.
@@Luckingsworth "Try submerging your engine bay in a lake ".. are you a moron? No shit sherlock that causes the intake to be submerged too. How is that equivalent to washing an engine bay? Power washing =/= submerging in a lake. Everything else you said was massive bs ('dangerous mineral deposits' forming after 1 clean or 1-2 cleans a yr? lmao!) and made up arm chair theorizing. Stop misinforming people if u have no idea wtf you're talking about.
@@octavian3287 I think you're missing the point, in fact i'de say you're the moron. The point is that forcing water and soaking water is what causes damage. That's why you gotta cover certain parts and do certain parts individual with spraying water.
I prefer an engine cleaner/degreaser first (on a warm engine), followed by a low-pressure rinse and then using compressed air to blow off the excess water.
I think this is exactly the way to go. I used Purple Power on my engine bay, and rinsed with water at the lowest pressure setting that I could. I let the engine air dry for about an hour, and it still runs well.
Basic step 1. Cover up important parts such as fuse box, distributor, abs sensor, throttle body sensor (depends on type of engine) 2. Spray a degreaser, rest for 3 minutes (don't use water) 3. Spray a car shampoo 4. Brush all parts that u can reach by hand by using detail brush 5. Use low pressure of water and clean the bay 6. Use blower/air compressor to remove stagnant water 7. Rest for 2 or 3 hours 8. Start your engine Good luck
Robert cover your alternator, starter, distributor, air intake... use common sense/judgment. Don’t spray electric connectors too long. Work as quickly as possible! It’s kinda scary. I’ve done it before, but it always makes me nervous. I might do my boat’s engine today. Good luck.
Robert you’re welcome. I just did my boat’s engine, following my own advice. Engine and bilge look brand new again. I blew away the excess standing water with my leaf blower and I ran an old attic window fan over the engine for a few hours. And one more thing... don’t forget to remove the battery!
Could live in a small town in my home town a full tank could last you a month in a little car the furthest thing you could drive to is Walmart which 3 miles away lol just hitting friends houses and work it's possible but idk where he lives lol
People say washing the engine is a bad idea. Yes, it is a bad idea when you don't know how to do it properly. This video somewhat covers the basics, which is avoiding electronic and ignition stuff, but there are a few things that were not mentioned. These are: -Covering intake ports. Sometimes in order to have a better overall reach for your pressure washer, you need to remove your air filter. It is mandatory to cover those places up. - Same goes for fuse boxes and cars equipped with mechanical distributors. Cover them up in plastic bags, and when done with the engine, manually clean the part. In fact, there are many cars that have an icon on their engine bay fuse boxes that say you should not pressure-wash them. - NEVER wash a hot engine. Sudden temp changes in things such as coil packs are instant murder for them. - Keep your distance. Don't get that nozzle too close to sensitive parts, wires, etc. - Don't stay in one place for too long, keep on moving the nozzle. The water pressure is for you to rinse off grime and gunk fast and easy. You're not supposed to "scrub" stuff with the jet stream, or let it sit for it to remove sludge or other hardened junk. This is the main reason why issues come up for a lot of people. - In order to comply with my previous point, it is mandatory to use degreaser strong enough to remedy the current situation of your engine dirtiness. You're supposed to apply degreaser, let it sit for a bit and rinse the engine. Repeat as necessary. For stubborn spots, manually scrub with proper tools. A lot of coin-operated car washes have engine degreaser, and the ones I've used it in, the degreaser is waay too good. I even use it on the tires and they get really clean with no scrubbing needed on the tire.
Lol, I own a Ram 1500, and there isn't one sticker on there, nice try though. Besides, yes they're water cooled, but if there is 2 inches of grease buildup on the outside of the engine, that'll hold in heat a little longer, than if it weren't there at all. Have you ever felt an engine block while warm, the outside is hot, therefore if the block is clean, it can cool off the block faster.
I wash my engine at home with a garden hose and nozzle so the pressure is not too high, I don't think I would trust a pressure washer like that. I'll only do it after the car has sat overnight and is cold so I don't risk cracking or damaging anything. I spray foaming degreaser on everything, agitate it with a scrub brush to loosen the grease and grime. Then I leave it sit for 15-20 minutes and hose everything off really good. Sometimes I give it two coats of degreaser if it is really dirty. Then I let it drip dry for half an hour and then start it up and let it run for 15 minutes to dry everything out. Then once it's cooled I lightly coat everything with engine shine to make it look really good. Done this over 5 times with my 2002 Saturn SL and never had any problems with it afterwards.
I've always wash my engine once a year. . . . . right after winter. Keeps the grime down and keeps my hands clean when I have to work on anything. Also its worth mentioning Purple Power or Simple Green works far better than the stuff that comes in the can. Just rinse the engine off first like you did than spray everything with your cleaner and let soak for a good 15 minutes before rinsing again. Works awesome.
TheTarrMan Careful with Purple Power, leave it on too long on aluminum with start to "eat away" at the surface. I've read threads where PP ruined anything aluminum if not washed off quickly enough. In my '92 Celica I only left it on for less than 10min and it tarnished the surface significantly.
dollar tree "L.A.'s totally awesome" a degreaser that i use all the time, not yet on engine. You can dilute it for household use, but it says on the bottle to use it at full strength to degrease an engine.
wolfstar just leave on no more then 10 min. I drive my car just over to car wash and let it sit to cool down a bit, 10 min while I eat something. Get out spray set timer. What I do is use the spot free rinse to wash and just go over everything never let the water sit in one spot. All I do is cover my dizzy, just be smart around wiring etc.
I tried but because i was too nervous i ended up covering the entire engine bay instead of just covering the alternator, distributor and battery. So i just ended up washing the wheels. What a life.
VERY important to NEVER get too close to electrical parts with that much pressure. Keep that nozzle about 18 inches away, just like he did in the video.
I detailed cars for 10 years... always leave it running while powerwashing... if you buy a used car from a lot ... the motor has been power washed ... I wash mine every few years.... fun fact ---- spray a mid2000's grand am starter and it will start👍
I used to work for a used dealership/detailing shop and the owner would do this to every car they got in with heavy duty pressure washer. Entire engine bay would get swamped with degreaser and he had this low acid cleaner for exposed metal. Then, the interiors would get soaked with a brush and a bucket, electronics and all and he would blast it out with an air compressor. For 2 years, this felt wrong every time but, as far as I could tell, it never caused an issue and they looked much better. That man could buff $1000 into a 10 year old paint job.
I detail cars and I always use a pair washer on the engine bay but I do not spray that close. I soak it with degreaser leave it dwell for about 3 to 4 minutes then spray it off from about a for to a foot and a half back then dry with a blower. Never had any problems and always have squeaky clean engine bays.
Rather than just blasting it with soap and water which i do feel could create problems i just use a bucket of soap, water and clean one bit at a time, takes longer but less risk
Thanks ETCG! I like your videos like this. Berryman B-33 engine cleaner is what I recommend. It works great, isn't caustic, and you can just use your normal garden hose which greatly reduces the chance of forcing water into places where it shouldn't be. Cheers!
I have been washing my engine for 30 plus years, I would not have it any other way. Every spring you could eat off my engine. It was made for the elements, it always amazes me how people don't take care of the Engine compartment. I watch many repair videos and I say.. Lots of nastiness.. It's all water hardy, two cans of good engine cleaner and a hose and You and the engine will be happy. Add to that you don't have to deal with all the nasties when you have to work on it... An engine compartment afraid of water..?!? Give me a break..
I washed my car with the engine off and I was running some really high rpm's when I turned it on and I took it on a drive I pressed my gas a little the car turned off on my and the gears wouldn't had switched nd I was running like 2,000 rpm's and almost fell in the lake cause my wheel locked up on me💀😬
If you had issues with wet components. Did you ever heard of an hairdryer! Or simply wait 'till the next day, it will be dry and fine... What a bunch of BS, a "new distributor/alternator" because you washed the engine! Come on! There's a reasonable limit for BS. No need to go over! >35 years washing most engines that ever crossed my path. Either mine or from clients. NEVER one single component was "lost". BTW the vast majority Peugeot/ Citroen/ Toyota/ Renault/ Mercedes/Fiat/Alfa... On occasion, there was some very rare hiccups (misfiring) from petrol engines. That vanish in the next couple of hours or in other words as soon as it dry. No need for BS stories!
Well there are bunch of offroaders that dip their whole bonnet in deep puddles and their engines are fine, so i dont see the reason why you couldnt wash your engine bay
Well sure if your electrical connector are rubbish then sure yeah, or u dip your ECU into the puddle then, yeah, youre bound to have electrical issues, but as long as youre connectors are okay shape and your ECU isnt under the hood going down the river (or it is atleast in some sort of waterproof holster) you shouldnt be having any electrical issues and if you do, they dont happen months later, they happen then and there when the water is still a factor in this, the water should evaporate soon after re surfacing, like honestly, where could the water puddle hide for a month before it starts doing damage ? i would understand rust damage, but thats nowhere near electrical issue.
When washing an engine I like to wait untill the engine is cool to the touch, then spray my degreaser on all the parts of the engine, I then let it sit for a couple of minutes before I take a brush and agitate, I apply more degreaser as needed. Then after I feel I've covered the whole engine I use the mist of the pressureewasher ( keeping it at about 50cm away from any part I'm rinsing. and make sure to remove any residue from the cleaner. You can then use a dressing for rubber/vinyl or similar to make the engine easier to clean the next time. You should however also cover the fusebox, alternator and electrical connections with plastic (shopping bag works great) before you start. I haven't but I would recommend it.
My mechanic hates dirty engines, especially when he is trying to find an oil leak, vacuum leak, etc. It's bad practice to leave your engine in a disgusting state for your mechanic. I use degreaser + a hose is plenty enough power (no need for pressure cleaners). Plastic over electronics and be careful with air intake / vents. Also you only did 30 miles in a week Eric
A word of caution. I've cracked the exhaust manifold on two different vehicles by washing my engine in this way. Both after driving just a few blocks. The moral of this story is that it's a good idea to make sure exhaust manifolds are cool enough to touch before washing.
Done it for decades on all my cars. Never had one problem. When the car is new, coat everything with something like 303 protectant and it won't oxidize as get coated with junk in the first place.
I would be afraid to do what he did. When I do wash my engine, I do it in a controlled way. A bucket, water and a lot of towels. I know it is more trouble than it's worth, but that is me playing it safe. Yes I do use an engine degreaser and engine shine.
We pressure wash every engine/engine compartment/power-train before performing any work unless it is already very clean and again after the work is performed the engine/engine compartment/power-train is pressure washed and then the vehicle exterior is washed, windows/mirrors cleaned and interior vacuumed unless the owner specifically instructs not to wash the exterior/windows/mirrors and vacuum. We usually have no issues from pressure washing the engine/power-train. The few instances with issues are usually ignition related and due to pre-existing defective components such as old leaking plug wires, cracked coil or cracked cap. Manufacturers design and engineer the equipment in the engine compartment and exterior to be water/weather resistant mechanically and electrically. That does not mean the vehicle can be safely submerged or abused without consequences. Most every US vehicle manufactured since 1985 must conform to an IEC/SAE/ISO/NEMA ingress/intrusion prevention spec and that since 1996 that spec is generally IP65/66/67. IP67 states "Water projected in powerful jets (12.5 mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects".
DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME !! 🤦🏻♂️ This guy clearly doesn't know anything about cleaning engine bay. 1st- You should cover electric part with plastic bag 2nd- use degreaser and 3rd-rinse everything. 😎✨🚙✨
One of my cars caught on fire, and the engine was a grease ball. I put it out with an extinguisher and drove it home, the powder in the extinguisher soaked up the grease and on a hot engine it hosed all off no problem. Now it's amazingly clean. What I learned was fire extinguishers are the best degreaser.
EricTheCarGuy Yes, live near where you work!!! the hours you save per year are huge, you really like wasting 500 plus hours a year driving in traffic to work?
Spent years as a professional detailer and always used the high pressure spray for cleaning engines. Never experienced any issues with modern engines, but older 4 cyl engines with the plug/coil on top of the engine can be a problem. Usually water entering the spark plug hole. This is easily remedied by blowing out or vacuuming the water out. And you don't want the alternator to get wet, so cover it with Saran wrap or a plastic bag. Protecting the engine chemically after cleaning is an important step too. Helps keep it clean and combating elements. I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant or McKee's 37 Trim Detailer as a finisher.
Also be careful of the cleaner used to take the greasy grime off. Some will remove or discolor the paint, and some will make the aluminum become discolored. Engine cleaners for older iron-block stuff isn't exactly great on the newer stuff.
That's a great video, but, Eric,I have a question, isn't that risky? because there are TPS, MAP, MAF sensor and the water can get inside the brake and steering fluid reservoir and can go into the system? And once I tried this only mug of water and spark plug wires started hissing, actually that was old car, may be I am wrong. Tell me is this a good idea to wash a car with pressure washer? Or it is acceptable.
Eric always loving the Honda's! I've done this to my GSR's as well! Detailer to mechanic pointer: I've done this countless times on all my cars. You have to use the car wash or your own degreaser in between two rinse cycles and then sponge the oil and grime. It comes out 5X better then just a simple rinse. I usually cover the distributor with a bag and go easy around electrical spots. I've had trouble maybe on 2 of 43 cars. Check my videos for reference and before/after results.
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"You want to be careful of the electrical components"
*sprays water on every electrical component and the battery*
I seriously think you are one of the worst people that exists.
@@0utcast he obviously states what you shouldn't do, but that doesn't mean he'll do what he advises not to, on his own vehicles numbnuts.
HAAHHAHA I thought the same
@@0utcast the way you're going off in your comments says a lot more about YOU than your comments say about chris. Fuck off outta here if you don't like the mans content. Pathetic little bitch.
@@0utcast Apparently you've never had fun with vehicles. Engines run under water hence the reason there are snorkels for vehicles. If your engine has issues after something as simple as washing it then you need to fix your blown out stuff.
Next video : How to diagnose electric faults caused by water
Paweł Be 😩😂😂😂😂
Lmao fr right...
I'm wondering why the engine is weaker without covering the cirucurs and open wires
@@defaultuser9273 indeed lol
Oh btw guys engines are made waterproof because water gets in them when it rains😂he’s using a pressure washer for gods sake he is blasting it with like 500-1000 psi no shit it’s gonna fault the electrical
"Be careful all around these sensitive parts."
*Blasts sensitive parts with pressure washer*
My thoughts too
😂
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust th-cam.com/users/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
You forgot to flood the fuse box.
😂
😂😂😂😂😂
😂
Makes it go faster I think.
No james... 3:24. He did not forget
Scotty Kilmer cried watching this.
Asfand Ashraf me too 😭😭😭😭
Don't do it your car won't start after you do that
Lunacy
Asfand Ashraf hahahahahahahha
Lol I just came from watching his video
Video title: "how to wash your engine"
actual content:"this is my first time trying this"
Nooooo to the pressure washing. Spray on some cleaner, let it do it's thing. Rinse with a light spray from a hose. You're done.
Eric cleaned something! Must be drunk
gil zur just desperate for views :)
I've been asked to make a video about this for like 6 years now. I figured it was time.
So Eric do you consider changing your catchphrase to Stay Clean now? :P
or he had the shits...31 miles in one week for a "car guy??" (4:33)...
EricTheCarGuy Lol
I washed my engine, i paid the price. Not the price for the wash, but the price for a new engine.
Wauw damn
Is that because you tried to wash the inside of the engine?
I wash mine all the time and I have a plug to coil deep socket engine the worst to clean I simply spray degreeser on the sides of the engine and on the rag and wipe on the top never had a problem never used water
WHAT????
@Farina Marcini no but I would bang a girl from England
Back in 98 I bought a brand new Civic. Drove it for 14 years and after every winter I power washed the engine. Never had any problems. Not once.I guess... do at your own risk.Thank you for the video.
What I've learned is that Honda, Toyota, and General Motor vehicles are the best for washing the engine bays. They seemed to have figured out the water sealing practice almost perfectly.
Sadly the worst by a long shot is Dodge and Range Rover. I've also noticed that some Jaguar's tend to fail but that was on like only two or three of them.
I used to wash my engine in my 2000 Infiniti I30 every year. Near had any issues from doing that.
Kenji still have the car?
You drove the same car for 14 yrs! Wow! That’s pretty cool 😊
Yep. I replaced the Civic with a new car and I am driving this one 11th year. Cars are a waste of money. Buy the best one you can. Take care of it and drive it to the end.
I thought to mention that I have washed engines for years and would like to suggest a couple of tips which have kept me out of trouble.
1. Wash with engine off - this is more of a safety issue (don’t want to accidently get the spray caught in moving parts - yea I know but, it happens
2. Never wash your engine if it’s extremely hot. I always drive it just enough to warm it to operating temp. If a hot day wait with hood open to let engine cool
3. Cover that alternator. It is designed to live in the real world but try not to soak it.
4. Pretreatment is highly recommended unless engine is just dusty - this will shorten the spry time
5. When washing over electrical components release the trigger to get a softer spray
6. After your done take the car out for a 15 -20 min drive. This will dry everything faster to avoid problems with water seeping into things
7.
Finally, thank you Eric!!! for helping all of us be better techs (even better shade tree mechanics like me ;-) - hope you guys find this helpful
Thanks for the tips. A friend of mine recommended using the wax option. What do you think? 🤔
@@casz7098 I would suggest avoiding any spay wax. If you want to polish plastic parts use the "back to Black" treatment on a shop rag then apply a couple of coats seems to work for me. Hope that helps a bit. Thanks again for all of your videos - I am learning a lot from you.
@@richardsoto9615 definitely helps. Thank you.
next integra vibeo "how to paint a valve cover" how many of you agree??
I painted my 04 TL's head covers & intake plenum cover with Rust-Oleum's caliper paint (red). This paint does not require primer, and is very robust. Brakes get hotter than engine so there is no concern for high-heat (except for exhaust components).
Honda's head cover paint is notorious for deteriorating, as well as head cover seal allowing engine oil to leak.
i cant wait for another integra video. as a teggy owner it's nice to see videos from one of the best mechanic youtubers out there
alfacart garage lol, I get my retired greyhound to do that and upload, he's a smart boy!
As long as it keeps the oil in I'm fine with it.
EricTheCarGuy that is the way and im .if it work dont touch it
"A week later" 30 miles.. shit, I drive more than that one way to school
The oil and grease keeps rust away
But the rust keeps the metal away!
drink15 i don't get it
So does tire dressing.....which I put on my engine compartment a few times a year and a good soaking in the fall. It is silicone, keeps the salt from destroying everything, keeps rubber and plastic parts from degrading.
You've revealed what I thought was my well kept secret.
1marcelfilms yea I try to tell folks that caked on grease is a preservative But no one listens.
"some of you said my engine is dirty but it's mostly just dirt". °_° oh really???!!?
vehicle electronics are water resistant to a degree....
resistant not waterproof :0
even a hose could put enough pressure to cause issues i guess
Yeah, supposedly, you're supposed to unplug the battery, and cover all the electronics with bags and tape (old Merc maintenance manual).
The connectors are IP rated.
They are normally IP67.
But that does not mean using a 1200psi pressure washer on them is a smart idea.
"resistant to a degree" is kindof redundant isn't it?
Something feels wrong about powerhosing an engine bay
Cause you're a dumbass
@@jobdoneright5934 That was an intelligent retort.
@@da324 defending your boyfriend?
@@jobdoneright5934 The defense rests.
@@da324 go away troll
"You don't want to add water to something that you don't want to add water to..." Most shops charge for this kind of advice, folks.
2 weeks later: Hey eric my car isnt starting and my car keeps stalling and i smell burning plastic
Eric, I love it when you answer a question I unconsciously had, but forgot to ask. 👍
don't try this on a Ford, unless you want to walk home.
Boonus18 ive been doing it monthly, sometimes more for about 15 years. hasn't caused an issue yet.
Boonus18 haha so true. i did this on my old mustang, and f150. had to blow the coils n plugs with compressed air. but my lbz, tl and silverado isn't a problem. idk why.
IF you have a distributor,PAY ATTENTION!
I recently just acquired a 02 Explorer V8 4.6 and washed the engine. Luckily I didn't screw it up like a lot of people do because I did it 5 miles from home lol
Boonus18 lol
I live on a dirt road. Washing the underhood of my vehicles is a nearly a monthly routine.. Doesn't hurt a thing, just use common sense as to what you are spraying.. Easy enough.
Yep! If you have a clue what's under the hood, then you should have some idea what NOT to get wet. Use plastic bags or something to cover those areas, if necessary. It's not hard.
That said, I personally prefer to use Simple Green and a power washer. Set the spray tip for a "fan" spray, and you shouldn't have to worry as much about forcing water into stuff.
The Kansas Dude yea think of cars like a Subaru wrx or any car with a scoop water can get on the engine all the time it's not a big deal
The Kansas Dude Yeah, I drove through a dust storm and HAD to wash the engine bay. if your car can't handle a little water, that company should just stop producing cars.
I agree Dodge should stop producing cars haha. Seriously though, if any company needs to learn the meaning of weatherproof, Dodge does. Their connectors seem to corrode worse than any other company and they place computers in super vulnerable spots.
Sensible comment. Awesome to hear and cudos. I’m sure the technicians are thankful for people like you, I know I am
When I wash my engine, I start with the engine cold, then spray a good dose (can or two depending on the dirt) of a good degreaser and let it soak for a while, then rinse it off well, then start it to let it get hot and dry off. Works good. Just be careful of the air box and fuses.
when i wash my engine compartment I cover sensitive electronic components with plastic, disconnecting the battery also and blast compressed air to help it dry. i dont use pressurized water because it forces water too much. Then i drive the car for a time.
jim c Yea this was the perfect video on how NOT to wash an engine , He didnt even cover the alternator or fuse box. SMH
jim c. I am usually very reluctant to wash the engine; but when it's necessary, I make sure the engine is warm (not hot = no cracking things) to help dry the pockets of water and never use high pressure on electrical boxes/connections.
well aren't you special!
If you drive your car in the rain, you can bet your ass your engine compartment gets wet (this is why electrical connectors have the rubber seals inside them, weatherproof for a reason). Some cars have the alternator mounted at the bottom, like my G8, and it's just fine in the rain. On top of that, after doing everything you're afraid of, Eric's Integra still runs just fine. :shocking:
Jeff Smith Eric did say proceed with caution. theres also a difference between driving a car in the rain and having your whole engine compartment from being hosed on top. Some do get lucky some dont =]
It's like Scotty Kilmer said about washing the engine..."you don't eat your lunch under there!!" That being said been washing my engine for years. I like it looking clean.
If you are going to wash your engine put a plastic grocery bag over electrical components like the ignition system and fuse box etc
i don't even know where that stuff is, nor do i know what a fuse box is. that's why i don't touch my engine
hahaha. consult your users manual.
That's awesome. I did a video on this topic and got water in some expired crappy plug wires in a straight 4 with deep plug wells. Misfires ensued, so I used the opportunity to show how to correct it. Glad it worked out for you. I do this practice all the time as a clean freak and have had results like you show here 99.999% of the time. Basically if the parts that keep water out are good, you're good. If those parts are bad or fail, you've got work to do with an air nozzle.
I'm glad it worked out too. Thanks for the input Brian.
Working as a detailer in both an auto auction and collision center I feel compelled to give a few tips:
1, be aware of how long you are hosing your engines off. The longer you are in the engine bay, the more likely you are to potentially damage things.
2, spraying the bay in an H-pattern (start by standing next to the left fender and spraying everything at that angle, then front bumper area, and finish from the right fender) seems to work best for overall coverage of the bay.
3, if you own a Dodge Ram or Range Rover of ANY model, do NOT wash your engine bay with water! THERE ARE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THAT ARE NOT SEALED VERY WELL AND IF THEY GET WET THE WATER WILL CAUSE THE MAIN COMPUTER TO FAIL COSTING YOU THOUSANDS. The best way to wash those vehicles are by using a degreaser-type spray cleaner and rags. If you still want to risk washing them, do so with light amounts of water and at your own desegregation.
4, do not wash the engine more than twice a year. Doing so will cause premature failure to gaskets, hoses, and lightweight plastic. I had several air hoses on my old pathfinder crack and fail from washing the engine bay too often and learned this tip from that mistake lol.
5, try to let your engine cool off some before you wash it, ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE COLD WATER. If not it will raise the risk of the engine block cracking and/or failing.
6, please wear safety glasses and older clothes. Doing so will prevent things like paint (see Eric's engine), oil, rust, and other debris from getting into your eyes. Also, wearing the older clothes will lower the chance of ruining good clothes from oils and solvents as they splash onto you, which I promise, will happen. :-)
Mike P
Great advice, thank you.
Mike P huh, i do the opposite of everything you recommend and have never had an issue.
Consider yourself fortunate
Jess Osborn do you avoid puddles and driving in rain storms? parking next to sprinklers?
No, of course I don't avoid puddles, and I drive in rain storms and am not afraid of sprinklers. His advice is still sound.
hey eric, you missed crissfix technique how ro clean your engine bay!
@@tmr8193 why?
What is it with people and dirty engines? It's perfectly safe to do so, if you have a mechanical thing designed to run in all weather exposed to the outside world and it goes bad to a few sprinkles of water, then it has a problem and it needs to be fixed. All electrical connections are water-proofed and the engine itself is an isolated machine with no connection to the outside other than the air intake and exhaust.
If I was a mechanic I'd charge extra for working on dirty engines.
*water resistant
Try submerging your engine bay in a lake and see how that works out for you. Electrical connections are designed to be okay from light mists and sprays due to rain getting in through the grills as well as water bouncing up from the ground. That does not mean that they are designed to withstand a constantly stream of water or a high PSI of water being jet blasted directly onto them. Further even if the connectors do work after you run the risk of shortening their life span as water proofing degrades over time (same reason we repair and rebuild dams). Consider that water is not the problem but all the minerals and contaminants that it contains. Those minerals build up in the connectors over time.
@@Luckingsworth "Try submerging your engine bay in a lake ".. are you a moron? No shit sherlock that causes the intake to be submerged too. How is that equivalent to washing an engine bay? Power washing =/= submerging in a lake.
Everything else you said was massive bs ('dangerous mineral deposits' forming after 1 clean or 1-2 cleans a yr? lmao!) and made up arm chair theorizing. Stop misinforming people if u have no idea wtf you're talking about.
@@octavian3287 I think you're missing the point, in fact i'de say you're the moron. The point is that forcing water and soaking water is what causes damage. That's why you gotta cover certain parts and do certain parts individual with spraying water.
@@Luckingsworth- Clueless! You have no idea what your talking about. :-(
@@crpth1 Then please upload a video of you submerging your engine parts in water and see how well it runs after.
I do this this on a daily bases at work you supposed to leave engine running 😅😅
I prefer an engine cleaner/degreaser first (on a warm engine), followed by a low-pressure rinse and then using compressed air to blow off the excess water.
I think this is exactly the way to go. I used Purple Power on my engine bay, and rinsed with water at the lowest pressure setting that I could. I let the engine air dry for about an hour, and it still runs well.
Compressed air can force the water into electrical connections though
Basic step
1. Cover up important parts such as fuse box, distributor, abs sensor, throttle body sensor (depends on type of engine)
2. Spray a degreaser, rest for 3 minutes (don't use water)
3. Spray a car shampoo
4. Brush all parts that u can reach by hand by using detail brush
5. Use low pressure of water and clean the bay
6. Use blower/air compressor to remove stagnant water
7. Rest for 2 or 3 hours
8. Start your engine
Good luck
you can also cover what you don't want wet with aluminum foil
Just cover up the sensitive parts you're good. I've washed all my engines and never any issues
What parts should I cover 2014 odyssey touring? The engine is very dirty from city driving lol.
Robert cover your alternator, starter, distributor, air intake... use common sense/judgment. Don’t spray electric connectors too long. Work as quickly as possible! It’s kinda scary. I’ve done it before, but it always makes me nervous. I might do my boat’s engine today. Good luck.
@@strobaholic will do my good friend, fingers crossed 🤙
@@strobaholic and thank you for taking the time out of your day to answer my question. 🤗🤗
Robert you’re welcome. I just did my boat’s engine, following my own advice. Engine and bilge look brand new again. I blew away the excess standing water with my leaf blower and I ran an old attic window fan over the engine for a few hours. And one more thing... don’t forget to remove the battery!
I wash my engine regularly keep it clean
Mileage at time of washing 101325
One week later. 101356 You don't drive very much.
Bet he recorded the video in the same day
Could live in a small town in my home town a full tank could last you a month in a little car the furthest thing you could drive to is Walmart which 3 miles away lol just hitting friends houses and work it's possible but idk where he lives lol
ThatBoy Zee the guy drove one mile in a “week” lol there’s no way in hell unless he drives the car to his next door neighbor everyday
@@Reply_if_you_like_men he drove 31 miles tho in a week
ThatBoy Zee exactly what I’m saying!!! His neighbor must be 36 miles away
People say washing the engine is a bad idea. Yes, it is a bad idea when you don't know how to do it properly. This video somewhat covers the basics, which is avoiding electronic and ignition stuff, but there are a few things that were not mentioned. These are:
-Covering intake ports. Sometimes in order to have a better overall reach for your pressure washer, you need to remove your air filter. It is mandatory to cover those places up.
- Same goes for fuse boxes and cars equipped with mechanical distributors. Cover them up in plastic bags, and when done with the engine, manually clean the part. In fact, there are many cars that have an icon on their engine bay fuse boxes that say you should not pressure-wash them.
- NEVER wash a hot engine. Sudden temp changes in things such as coil packs are instant murder for them.
- Keep your distance. Don't get that nozzle too close to sensitive parts, wires, etc.
- Don't stay in one place for too long, keep on moving the nozzle. The water pressure is for you to rinse off grime and gunk fast and easy. You're not supposed to "scrub" stuff with the jet stream, or let it sit for it to remove sludge or other hardened junk. This is the main reason why issues come up for a lot of people.
- In order to comply with my previous point, it is mandatory to use degreaser strong enough to remedy the current situation of your engine dirtiness. You're supposed to apply degreaser, let it sit for a bit and rinse the engine. Repeat as necessary. For stubborn spots, manually scrub with proper tools.
A lot of coin-operated car washes have engine degreaser, and the ones I've used it in, the degreaser is waay too good. I even use it on the tires and they get really clean with no scrubbing needed on the tire.
VochoTalacha
Bryce, grease acts as an insulator, which makes your engine not cool effectively.
You obviously don't work on cars do you?
Is that really the best you could come up with? I can already tell what your intelligence level is.
Lol, I own a Ram 1500, and there isn't one sticker on there, nice try though. Besides, yes they're water cooled, but if there is 2 inches of grease buildup on the outside of the engine, that'll hold in heat a little longer, than if it weren't there at all. Have you ever felt an engine block while warm, the outside is hot, therefore if the block is clean, it can cool off the block faster.
I wash my engine at home with a garden hose and nozzle so the pressure is not too high, I don't think I would trust a pressure washer like that. I'll only do it after the car has sat overnight and is cold so I don't risk cracking or damaging anything. I spray foaming degreaser on everything, agitate it with a scrub brush to loosen the grease and grime. Then I leave it sit for 15-20 minutes and hose everything off really good. Sometimes I give it two coats of degreaser if it is really dirty. Then I let it drip dry for half an hour and then start it up and let it run for 15 minutes to dry everything out. Then once it's cooled I lightly coat everything with engine shine to make it look really good. Done this over 5 times with my 2002 Saturn SL and never had any problems with it afterwards.
Perfect. You should make a video and it should replace this video.
I've always wash my engine once a year. . . . . right after winter. Keeps the grime down and keeps my hands clean when I have to work on anything. Also its worth mentioning Purple Power or Simple Green works far better than the stuff that comes in the can. Just rinse the engine off first like you did than spray everything with your cleaner and let soak for a good 15 minutes before rinsing again. Works awesome.
TheTarrMan Careful with Purple Power, leave it on too long on aluminum with start to "eat away" at the surface. I've read threads where PP ruined anything aluminum if not washed off quickly enough. In my '92 Celica I only left it on for less than 10min and it tarnished the surface significantly.
dollar tree
"L.A.'s totally awesome"
a degreaser that i use all the time, not yet on engine.
You can dilute it for household use, but it says on the bottle to use it at full strength to degrease an engine.
well, use purple power brand FOR CAR, not the industrial one. EX: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/superclean-degreaser-946-ml-0392965p.html#srp
David Ravitch this stuff works great
wolfstar just leave on no more then 10 min. I drive my car just over to car wash and let it sit to cool down a bit, 10 min while I eat something. Get out spray set timer. What I do is use the spot free rinse to wash and just go over everything never let the water sit in one spot. All I do is cover my dizzy, just be smart around wiring etc.
"i'm going to drive it for a week" 30 miles later
It's a Honda, what did you expect? Try doing this on a French or Italian car...
I tried but because i was too nervous i ended up covering the entire engine bay instead of just covering the alternator, distributor and battery. So i just ended up washing the wheels. What a life.
VERY important to NEVER get too close to electrical parts with that much pressure. Keep that nozzle about 18 inches away, just like he did in the video.
⭐ Astral Auto Repairs hell nah he's much closer than 18 inches
Edgar Manzo tbh 💀
I detailed cars for 10 years... always leave it running while powerwashing... if you buy a used car from a lot ... the motor has been power washed ... I wash mine every few years.... fun fact ---- spray a mid2000's grand am starter and it will start👍
every used car lot I've ever seen does this
I used to work for a used dealership/detailing shop and the owner would do this to every car they got in with heavy duty pressure washer. Entire engine bay would get swamped with degreaser and he had this low acid cleaner for exposed metal. Then, the interiors would get soaked with a brush and a bucket, electronics and all and he would blast it out with an air compressor. For 2 years, this felt wrong every time but, as far as I could tell, it never caused an issue and they looked much better. That man could buff $1000 into a 10 year old paint job.
all professional detailers clean and detail the engine bay FULLY,before returning to the customer
I detail cars and I always use a pair washer on the engine bay but I do not spray that close. I soak it with degreaser leave it dwell for about 3 to 4 minutes then spray it off from about a for to a foot and a half back then dry with a blower. Never had any problems and always have squeaky clean engine bays.
Some car washes have the option to high pressure hot water de-greaser settings.
Rather than just blasting it with soap and water which i do feel could create problems i just use a bucket of soap, water and clean one bit at a time, takes longer but less risk
Thanks ETCG! I like your videos like this. Berryman B-33 engine cleaner is what I recommend. It works great, isn't caustic, and you can just use your normal garden hose which greatly reduces the chance of forcing water into places where it shouldn't be. Cheers!
u might short ur electrical part by doing this way..go check chrisfix youtube video if u ever want to clean your engine bay safely
I have been washing my engine for 30 plus years, I would not have it any other way. Every spring you could eat off my engine. It was made for the elements, it always amazes me how people don't take care of the Engine compartment. I watch many repair videos and I say.. Lots of nastiness.. It's all water hardy, two cans of good engine cleaner and a hose and You and the engine will be happy. Add to that you don't have to deal with all the nasties when you have to work on it... An engine compartment afraid of water..?!? Give me a break..
Curiosity
Me too. Soap and water simple.
I wash my Chevy express cutaways also all the time . Sometimes even with soap water and nothing ever happened to them.
I washed my car with the engine off and I was running some really high rpm's when I turned it on and I took it on a drive I pressed my gas a little the car turned off on my and the gears wouldn't had switched nd I was running like 2,000 rpm's and almost fell in the lake cause my wheel locked up on me💀😬
did this to a 1993 Camry.. new distributor and alternator later, it's like new again, with a new alternator and distributor!
If you had issues with wet components. Did you ever heard of an hairdryer! Or simply wait 'till the next day, it will be dry and fine... What a bunch of BS, a "new distributor/alternator" because you washed the engine! Come on! There's a reasonable limit for BS. No need to go over!
>35 years washing most engines that ever crossed my path. Either mine or from clients. NEVER one single component was "lost". BTW the vast majority Peugeot/ Citroen/ Toyota/ Renault/ Mercedes/Fiat/Alfa... On occasion, there was some very rare hiccups (misfiring) from petrol engines. That vanish in the next couple of hours or in other words as soon as it dry. No need for BS stories!
You’re like me, only put 31 miles on a vehicle in a week lol. Now with gas prices it’s generally only 20 miles 🤣
Well there are bunch of offroaders that dip their whole bonnet in deep puddles and their engines are fine, so i dont see the reason why you couldnt wash your engine bay
Rotming it may seam like that but they usually end up with electrical issues month's later.
Well sure if your electrical connector are rubbish then sure yeah, or u dip your ECU into the puddle then, yeah, youre bound to have electrical issues, but as long as youre connectors are okay shape and your ECU isnt under the hood going down the river (or it is atleast in some sort of waterproof holster) you shouldnt be having any electrical issues and if you do, they dont happen months later, they happen then and there when the water is still a factor in this, the water should evaporate soon after re surfacing, like honestly, where could the water puddle hide for a month before it starts doing damage ? i would understand rust damage, but thats nowhere near electrical issue.
yup i agree there, mate of mine replaces alternators from submersion but weeks later after trips
Maybe the cables / connectors start to rust and brake loose?
Cables are usually copper, and copper doesnt rust all that easily and the connectors are mostly plastic with possibly a rubbery o ring as a seal
I have always washed my engines this way. use the soap setting, it helps. I also leave the engine running while washing.
When washing an engine I like to wait untill the engine is cool to the touch, then spray my degreaser on all the parts of the engine, I then let it sit for a couple of minutes before I take a brush and agitate, I apply more degreaser as needed. Then after I feel I've covered the whole engine I use the mist of the pressureewasher ( keeping it at about 50cm away from any part I'm rinsing. and make sure to remove any residue from the cleaner. You can then use a dressing for rubber/vinyl or similar to make the engine easier to clean the next time. You should however also cover the fusebox, alternator and electrical connections with plastic (shopping bag works great) before you start. I haven't but I would recommend it.
Tip: if you have a honda or Toyota, dont worry it's not gonna care.
Contact the car wash! 😂
Darwin W 😂😂😂
Haven't seen Eric's live AMAs in a while. Has he stopped doing those?
My mechanic hates dirty engines, especially when he is trying to find an oil leak, vacuum leak, etc. It's bad practice to leave your engine in a disgusting state for your mechanic. I use degreaser + a hose is plenty enough power (no need for pressure cleaners). Plastic over electronics and be careful with air intake / vents. Also you only did 30 miles in a week Eric
Your washing for your mechanic? If it's necessary, let him/her wash it.
Never ever wash your engine theres no point it can harm your electronics. No one sees your engine while your driving it.
A word of caution. I've cracked the exhaust manifold on two different vehicles by washing my engine in this way. Both after driving just a few blocks. The moral of this story is that it's a good idea to make sure exhaust manifolds are cool enough to touch before washing.
I've spray washed my Chev LS engine 2-3 times a year for nearly 20 years and it's never caused a problem.
md65000 i’m debating whether i do it to mine or not
When washing my ls1 I use my wife's old shower hair caps and cover the ignition coils.. But never had any issues in last 6 years
One professional detailer suggests using ArmourAll tire foam? Looks reasonable. I'd wipe off rather than spray spray with water... dunno..
Done it for decades on all my cars. Never had one problem.
When the car is new, coat everything with something like 303 protectant and it won't oxidize as get coated with junk in the first place.
You should've removed the mf battery.
Don't worry about it
I wash my engine all the time
And no issues.......
Why do it to an Acura, do it to a American car
I would be afraid to do what he did.
When I do wash my engine, I do it in a controlled way. A bucket, water and a lot of towels. I know it is more trouble than it's worth, but that is me playing it safe.
Yes I do use an engine degreaser and engine shine.
cool. i am going to do that to my $100k+ car. wish me luck people.
We pressure wash every engine/engine compartment/power-train before performing any work unless it is already very clean and again after the work is performed the engine/engine compartment/power-train is pressure washed and then the vehicle exterior is washed, windows/mirrors cleaned and interior vacuumed unless the owner specifically instructs not to wash the exterior/windows/mirrors and vacuum.
We usually have no issues from pressure washing the engine/power-train.
The few instances with issues are usually ignition related and due to pre-existing defective components such as old leaking plug wires, cracked coil or cracked cap.
Manufacturers design and engineer the equipment in the engine compartment and exterior to be water/weather resistant mechanically and electrically.
That does not mean the vehicle can be safely submerged or abused without consequences.
Most every US vehicle manufactured since 1985 must conform to an IEC/SAE/ISO/NEMA ingress/intrusion prevention spec and that since 1996 that spec is generally IP65/66/67.
IP67 states "Water projected in powerful jets (12.5 mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects".
'nuff said.
You automatically wash engines but ask permission for a regular car wash? 🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨
andy fumo don’t want to fuck up someone’s paint
DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME !! 🤦🏻♂️
This guy clearly doesn't know anything about cleaning engine bay. 1st- You should cover electric part with plastic bag 2nd- use degreaser and 3rd-rinse everything. 😎✨🚙✨
One of my cars caught on fire, and the engine was a grease ball. I put it out with an extinguisher and drove it home, the powder in the extinguisher soaked up the grease and on a hot engine it hosed all off no problem. Now it's amazingly clean.
What I learned was fire extinguishers are the best degreaser.
Say something when you know how to start a car.. 4:14 4:36 WRONG !!
A lot of those car washes have degreaser right in their systems!
You only drive about 30 miles a week, that's good on the ole wallet.
if you have a bmw there is absolutly no risk to washing your engine. i wash about 10 a day with a pressure washer never had a problem
You forgot to spray armor-all all over the engine after - brings it alive
done it for years
please wash your gm truck engines! i love replacing the knock sensors and harness under the intake!
Yep been their done that. When I replaced mine I put a bead of high temp gasket maker around the caps the wire goes through
It's a Honda, you'll be good!! lol
You drove 31 miles in a week? Lmao.
He's got his own armada of auto's to choose from......
I have a lot of cars and I only live 2 miles from the shop.
EricTheCarGuy Yes, live near where you work!!! the hours you save per year are huge, you really like wasting 500 plus hours a year driving in traffic to work?
Locutus this is right just
31 mails
Maybe I have been just lucky ,but I always washed my engine and compartment for years. no issues.
I've always washed my engines I just turn it on and leave it running while I wash it
Spent years as a professional detailer and always used the high pressure spray for cleaning engines. Never experienced any issues with modern engines, but older 4 cyl engines with the plug/coil on top of the engine can be a problem. Usually water entering the spark plug hole. This is easily remedied by blowing out or vacuuming the water out. And you don't want the alternator to get wet, so cover it with Saran wrap or a plastic bag. Protecting the engine chemically after cleaning is an important step too. Helps keep it clean and combating elements. I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant or McKee's 37 Trim Detailer as a finisher.
i love how eric is so effing JDM yo! Subscribed
had trouble once - sparkplugs under water......
wiped dry, no problems.
My OCD is so happy right now! Thanks EricTheCarGuy!
🐱
😂😂😂😂😂
Well I mean it's a Honda engine. You can clean it with fire and it would still run perfectly. As long as you keep it stock
Also be careful of the cleaner used to take the greasy grime off. Some will remove or discolor the paint, and some will make the aluminum become discolored. Engine cleaners for older iron-block stuff isn't exactly great on the newer stuff.
That's a great video, but, Eric,I have a question, isn't that risky?
because there are TPS, MAP, MAF sensor and the water can get inside the brake and steering fluid reservoir and can go into the system?
And once I tried this only mug of water and spark plug wires started hissing, actually that was old car, may be I am wrong.
Tell me is this a good idea to wash a car with pressure washer? Or it is acceptable.
Eric always loving the Honda's! I've done this to my GSR's as well!
Detailer to mechanic pointer:
I've done this countless times on all my cars. You have to use the car wash or your own degreaser in between two rinse cycles and then sponge the oil and grime. It comes out 5X better then just a simple rinse. I usually cover the distributor with a bag and go easy around electrical spots. I've had trouble maybe on 2 of 43 cars.
Check my videos for reference and before/after results.
Shouldn't sensitive electrical parts be covered by plastic first before actually washing it?
I wash my engine and it never effected my car expect looks great but there are some spots to avoid
I think washing the engine exposes weak components that will fail soon down the road