One other thing that sometimes works when an engine is flooded: hold the gas pedal to floor (don't pump it) while cranking the engine. Old trick from the carburetor days. Fortunately, most EFI vehicles have a "clear flood" mode incorporated into the ECM programming. To enter "clear flood" mode, all you have to do is hold the gas pedal to the floor (WOT) with the key in the 'on' position, then crank the engine. The ECM will shut off the fuel injectors (but not the ignition coil) or command the injectors to go lean, which will allow the engine to pump in fresh air and hopefully clear out any excess fuel. Release the gas pedal once the engine fires up to resume normal ECM operation. Had this happen to a coworker while I was on vacation last month. 2014 Toyota Tacoma. He was just about to call the tow truck but then called me for advice first. When he activated "clear flood" mode, the engine cranked for about 5 seconds then roared to life.
You made my day brother thank you! It worked for me this morning, it was exactly how Robert described, yesterday I quickly started the car to move a little further and stopped immediately and today it happened.
Robert! I have been following your channel for years ever since I inherited my grandmothers '94 Volvo 10 years ago. I moved the car into the garage, 20 feet, turned it off, went away for 5 days and came back to the car starting for .5 seconds and immediately turning off and not able to stat again. I towed it to the mechanic before realizing I should have checked your channel first. They had the car for 1 week and couldn't figure anything out, kept saying no compression and I need to replace the engine. I kept asking them to watch your video, but they never did. I asked them if I could come to the shop and try to start it myself, followed your procedure and it started immediately, no cranking necessary! I am very thankful for all the videos you make and have used them a lot over the years!
@Robert DIY thanks so much. After going through the "basic diagnostic procedures" guide from the Volvo shop manuals. After scratching our heads and getting it to cough on starter fluid, your video was what led us to the solution! Almost at 300k miles in my 98 S90. Thanks again! We used half a *cap* full of Mobile1 Synthetic per cylinder which smoked for a good 30 minutes. May I humbly suggest two things: (1) unplug the plugs and injector wires and crank for 30 - 60 seconds to clear any remaining fuel and (2) after adding the oil, crank the cylinders for 5 - 10 seconds with the plugs and injectors still unplugged to help coat the cylinders with oil. Starting the car took 60 seconds more of cranking. And leave that sucker on to burn off the oil and let your engine and catalytic converter get up to temp!
I am in disbelief IT WORKED! Unbelievable lol, started my car yesterday to move it in my driveway for at least 15 seconds then shut it off, came out today and it wouldn't start so usually my first reaction is to come straight to your channel and you have saved me again! I appreciate your videos so much thank you Robert I thought my car finally quit on me.
Wow Robert you hit that right on the head. I had to walk to work because of the no start issue. When I got off I tried to start the vehicle and had the same issue but I didn't give up. My mind set was I was going to either kill the battery or flood the engine. She sputtered and sputtered. I gave her a break between attempts and verbally coached her along and BAM! She started. Ure a true Godsend just to have someone answer your inquiries the same day is priceless. Thank you.
Had this issue with my '95 850 GLT. troubleshot fuel, spark, air (during the process it occasionally seemed like it would start... but no joy)... was really scratching my head until I came across your video. The 5-second run matched my scenario. I had some reservations about the fix, not being an engine guy, but went ahead anyway and pulled all the plugs one by one and added a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. once everything was reassembled, the vehicle started immediately. Amazing! Thank you!
Cheers for this vid, you've possibly saved our 2001 Golf, or at least a callout. Moved the car back up the driveway to make space for a visitor, then next day moved it back. This morning had exactly this problem. Haven't the tools for the plugs but left it a while and then cranked it for 30-60 seconds and eventually it caught and started. Now is fine but your explanation fits and makes perfect sense.
Thanks Robert, I've had an 05 xc70 here for months after waiting 7 weeks for a cylinder head..put it all back together and could not figure out why it wouldn't start.
@Robery DIY Thank you so much for the tips in this video. I went from no idea why my '94 850 would not start, to a working car in an afternoon. Extremely helpful, I am massively grateful.
Robert, THANK YOU! I just now had this happen to my 1995 Toyota T100 2.7L 4 Cylinder and found your video. I got this truck from my uncle a couple weeks ago. He had let it sit in his driveway un-driven for 8 years! I was flushing the oil with Liqui-Moly Pro Line Engine Flush. I had just poured it in the oil fill, which of course is over the cylinder head. I suppose the Liqui-Moly washed the oil seal off of the piston rings and just like you described. I had no compression! I was dumbfounded. How could the compression all of a sudden vanish. I just drove the truck the day before with no issues. Well your video was a troubleshooting time saving nugget of golden information! I didn't have to do the oil in the cylinder method as you described, but instead I tried the method one of your commenters, @AKJeeper, suggested. It seemed like the easiest thing to try first, before pulling all the plugs. I cranked the starterand it took about a 30 seconds to clear the cylinders of the excess fuel and Liqui-Moly and idle by itself. Thanks everyone!
Hi Robert, Thanks so much for your discussing and solution to this very real syndrome. I was lucky to read your comment mentioning "lawnmower syndrome" in another one of your "Crank, no start" videos". If there is any way you can add tagline "Crank No Start" to this one, I'm sure it will get more views & help people. It doesn't come up when searching on those terms. Thanks for all you do!
@@RobertDIY I'm using a lot of your good lessons doing my first timing belt, water pump kit and cam and crank seals on my 2000 RX300. Toyota products good like Volvo too.
This information is highly beneficial! I have fallen victim to the Lawnmower Syndrome with my SR20DET in my 240SX and boy i wish i watched this video before tearing apart the whole motor. Definitely would have tried pouring oil in the cylinders!!!!
the other thing that will cause this issue is if you have injectors that are leaking while the car is sitting they are dripping fuel in the cylinders when you try to restart it you can actually hear the engine spending much faster like a broken timing belt I have found simply holding the accelerator to the floor cuts off fuel it will start run rough and eventually clear out and the car will be fine until the next time you shut it off the fix is to replace the injectors
Hi Robert, and everybody! Glad to find this, I will give another chance to start the on the street, try to avoid to be transported. ('04 V70 2.5T FWD) Right now I don't have engien oil with me, anything else what I can use? For example WD-40? Anyway I have to pull the head off, due to head gasket problem and coolant loss, I hope its only the gasket (should be, cuz head were refurbished, turbo new, pcv sys new, radiator new, screws etc new, temp sensor new, VVT hubs new, etc.) But it wasn't original gasket what went inside, this time I will use Victor Reinz or Fel-Pro, which I assume better then OEM.
My 1994 Volvo 850, going in shop tomorrow..I’m getting 3 things fixed: Door lock on drivers side Door won’t stay open on drivers side, you have to hold it open with your foot. Fuel pump relay...... WISHED YOU HAD THE JOB ROBERT!!
Yup, had this 3 times since 2013 with my V70 98 R manual. Moving it for a few seconds then shutting it off...It will start eventually, after a few seconds cranking, but will splutter for a little while after. Here in the UK, we call it bore wash.
@@RobertDIY I had this issue yesterday...The weird thing was, I had driven it a mile up the road, then shut it off, and took quite a few attempts to start, almost as though the plugs were wet. It eventually started, but was spluttering quite a lot, I revved it as much as I could, and was still a bit spluttery when driving it back home. I took the spark plugs out, and they looked OK. Started OK, when I put the plugs back in...Im wondering if it is the fuel pump relay? I am losing a little bit of water out of the header tank too. Nothing major though. Will give it a sniff test in a day or so, to make sure the head gasket is OK....I have never over heated the engine, so not sure if it would be the head gasket.
Had that happen to a friends 96 850 wagon. Fortunately it wasn't too bad. Let it sit for a little while, turned it over for a little bit, avoiding burning out the starter, and it started up, rough, but smoothed out
I have an 03 S80 with a crank no start issue please help only 97,xxx miles was running good but it was having a electrical issue the battery light was coming on and there was a message said electrical system service or close to it so I figured alternator? Then was told to check if it was that I need to let it run and take the positive terminal off if it stayed running it was not the alternator if it died it was well it died and won't start now I have to use jumper cables but it turns over almost starts but nope I'm banging my head try to figure it out any help would be appreciated
Hi Robert another great video on a solution I would have never thought of. I have just had a problem with engine cranking but not starting. I can smell fuel & I have a good spark on no 5 plug. So I ran the codes & got 1:2:2 no signal from Air Intake Temp Sensor. I have a 10V non-turbo 850 1995. Could a faulty sensor stop the car from starting? The last time I drove it was 4-days ago and stopped after about 2 miles.
@@RobertDIY Thanks Robert I took it off & cleaned it, checked that the resistance dropped as I heated it with a hair dryer and it was fine. So refitted it, but car still non-starter. However, when I release the key it does try & white smoke comes out of the front of the engine near the intake manifold at the end furthest from the distributor. I know your a re a busy man, but I was hoping you might have some advice.
Hi Robert, I have an 05 xc90 2.5t awd. Got it for a steal. 180k timing belt and components changed at 178k. Guy I bought from took out cem. Said he turns key to start position, nothing. I reinstalled the cem, got xc90 to crank and start briefly for a split second. But will not stay running. Help
Robert DIY that's what I was thinking, with. CEM in the vehicle, I sometimes have to touch the wire harness to make stuff come on. I have a second cem as well, I install that one in the c at and I also have to pull on harness to get power. I'm also thinking there is a short or bad connection in the harness itself. I got the car for $850
@@jonmccullum8692 CEM units often get water damage as drains get clogged and water level rises in cowl and leaks into CEM box, and white corrosion will impact connections at plugs, or on components, it is pretty obvious to see the white corrosion, and if you clean with electron spray and tooth brush you can repair problems of intermittent dash lights blinking out, gas gage not working, engine stalls, won't start, I had dozens of problem before pulling out and cleaning out corrosion, and unplugging drains in cowl, plus resealed box.
I started my Volvo this morning it started fine then 10 minutes later I get in to go to work and it was little jumpy then just died on me and now won't start back up what would be wrong ?
My Volvo s70 horn keeps blowing and my indicator lights keep flashing and and when I try to crank it just doesn’t do anything like nothing what do I do
The supposed "Lawn-Mower Syndrome" (ring wash) does indeed exist. Just recently experienced it on my 2004 Volvo s60. Car was running beautifully but every once in a while it would have issues starting where it would crank and crank but not start. When my mechanic checked the compression it only had 45-50lbs of pressure on all 5 cylinders and he said it needed a new engine because the rings were bad. I called bullsh*t and had the car towed elsewhere. Turns out it was caused by the Variable Valve Timing being off slightly and opening the valves at the wrong time and the ring wash was contributing to the starting problem. Fixed the VVT timing and she's doing just fine.
The new mechanic purchased the proper tool that locks the camshafts in the proper positions while he turned the VVT mechanism to the correct adjustment. I believe the tool was somewhere in the neighborhood of $50.
By the way, to make them ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) compliant, the engines that Volvo equipped in P2 model vehicles like mine (by design) do not have the piston rings fit completely (air/oil-tight) snug to the cylinder walls until the engine is up to operating temperature. This means that it is impossible to get a correct compression reading unless the engine is warmed up first.
Hi Robert, or anyone else. My 98 s70 T5, starts and runs fine. But when warmed up, and shut off for a few minutes. Often won’t start again, till after it has sat a little longer. Is there a hot start valve, or could my injectors be leaking. I can’t find anything on this. Thanks for your help, if now, and certainly in the past. Bill.
Hi Robert! I speak of Brazil. I have a 850SW Turbo 1995 and it only turns on once, being able to walk for hours, but after disconnecting it doesn’t start anymore, and has low compression on the measurement ... Then I have to turn off the candles and turn it back on, then it turns on again . What can it be? Help me!
Yesterday my Tahoe cranks runs fine drove probably a hour away got home cut it off today it want start it has gas in it I can hear the fuel pump running I checked to see if I have spark from my coil pack from 1 plug on each side it turns over fine just will not start also went to the fuel line and pushed in on the thing to see if it's getting gas to the engine and it squirted gas out of the line any idea's
Hey Robert I have a 2000 ford Taurus which i believe has a blown head gasket due to over heating. The car however wont even start now. I saw water come out of the muffler and believe maybe the cylinders are flooded with water or something. Can I try the lawnmower syndrome recovery steps of removing the spark plugs and adding a little bit of oil to get the engine started and then maybe try a head sealer like steel seal
No, that won't work. You can do a compression test and if more than 1 cylinder has zero compression, you will likely need a new head. Car Over Heated Now Will Not Start, Detailed - Auto Information Series
No, head. Sometimes the head is to damaged to make true and reuse. You can usually get a reconditioned head for $550 and repairing a damaged his can be the same cost with risk. You can pull it and have a machine shop check it to see if it is repairable. That usually cost about $40 for the check and estimate.
Hi, my 1998 s70 has a no start. I replaced the timing belt while it was not able to be used and checked timing it was fine (also the timing belt was old which is why i did) i checked the fuel pump and relay all good, replaced the camshaft sensor (it wasnt working) i was pretty damn sure it was that at this point. It wasnt. The crankshaft sensor is fine. Tested the spark plugs they are working. Im not sure if it is lawnmower syndrome, but the oil smells like fuel. Which is why im here.
Hey Robert, how goes it? Here’s my story.... 1996 850 Turbo Sedan - 137k Miles Last Thursday I did start the car and moved it about 20 Feet and shut it down for a good cleaning. Then started it and parked it. Next day wouldn’t start. Cranks but no start. I had noticed a few times in the past month a weird barely noticeable rough idle at start but it would go away and drive just fine. It only did a few times and not every time, so I don’t know if this has something to do with this sudden no start issue. So I have removed all spark plugs and they were nice and clean, they are Volvo plugs 3-1/2 yrs old 10k miles. (I live real close to work). And all 5 have a spark. I also did put a little oil inside each cylinder head. I hear the fuel pump humming about 3 seconds after turning key off. Not as loud as one video of yours. I went in the trunk and heard it. Also, I have fuel in the Rack, as it comes out of valve. I have a good battery, even recharged it since I kind of drained it trying to start it as it almost starts, as an turns over a little bit than it just goes back to just cranking. I have No check engine light. Cam shaft turns around. Replaced the fuel pump relay anyway since I had spare. Still nothing. What you reckon? Thanks.
I have that issue on a 2004 Volvo XC90. But I only have 10 psi in two cylinders the other four have zero compression. I adde about a tablespoon of oil to each cylinder but no luck. Now I don’t know if trying that one more time.
Robert DIY last week it sat for about a week the when I tried to start it won’t fire. I put oil just like two hours ago and crank it and sounds like it was getting compression but after a while I gave up. So now I took the spark plugs out to let them dry and try again later.
Btw thanks for replying so quick. The reason I’m a little desperate is because I planned a road trip next month and now I may cancel that. Also that was the reason a let the suv seat there without driving it because it was running great I guess it didn’t like the break.
I did the Headgasket on my Volvo 850 2.5 20v 1994 model and did timing, serpentine, waterpump new Also i replaced all sparksplugs.the Battery is pumped up. Now it wont start its just cranking.It gets fuel, Motor is turning, camshaft turn too. Now i get error code in A6 2-1-4, i checked the cable it gets 280 Ohm , I tried now even quickstarter Spray. what can i do ?
Hey Robert I’m having this same problem I’m getting fuel I can hear the pump running however it won’t start, drove the car home from work park it move it a bit one day now it won’t start
Try pushing the pedal to the floor, and keep cranking till it starts. Same thing happened on my 95 850 glt after I moved it out of the way of one of my other cars
Just broke something with the timing on my 1998 v90, have it all lined up and everything back together and there is no resistance on the starter by the engine when cranking.
so my Volvo c70 was running but had hesitation when you got up to high rpm's, my husband thought it was the air filter so he changed it. 30 or so minutes after, we were driving up a hill and it bogged out. We tried starting it and nothing ever since... I've changed the fuel filter, pump, air filter, maf sensor, coil, cap, rotor, spark plugs, and the vaccum pump yet still NOTHING. please help if you have any idea
I had a similar issue to this, but I think it was that I ran out of gas. My fuel sensor isn't working, and didn't show my a low fuel gauge light, so I think i ran it dry. D'oh! but I got it started after putting in enough gas to prime it again. Lesson learned. Buy new fuel sensor! btw, are you (by any chance) coming out to Portland for the IPD "Garage Sale"? (if you know what that is).
Not sure to say YES or NO, lol. Yes I do know what the iPd garage sale is, I've been an iPd customer since 1987. No I am not able to attend. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2013 camaro I was driving and it just gave out on the highway changed the timing time because I had no compression when I changed the chain I had compression in all cylinders for a couple of cranks but still would not start then it lost all compression again
Just had Swifty die on me yesterday. just a "Click" not sure what's going on but I'm gonna swap out wires, cap and msd ignition because they are overdue. Hopefully it's not the starter.
Hi, Robert. Maybe similar problem. Volvo 850 2.0 20v aut. 1995, 225 kkm on it, been used rare, rather on short distances. Earlier - 1kkm before - changed the oil from 10w40 semisynth to synth 5w40. After staying for a week - did not start. Cranked several times - day by day - and no any answer. Called the mechanic. He checked the spark - ok, fuel - there is fuel and the fuel pomp. It works. No codes in memory. But finally he checked the compression. During cranking the compression was low, but double higher when added oil into cylinders. Help if have any idea. Thank you. Greets from Poland.
I drove my 96 volvo 850 wagon about a mile away from my house, had it parked for about 5 hours, drove it back to my house. About 2 hours later it wouldn't start (it did crank though). Is my car suffering from lawnmower syndrome?
I bet this is exactly what's going on with my cousin's car right now. We just did the timing belt and it wouldn't start, and we got scared we did something wrong.
Robert DIY We did. It started and ran for a couple seconds, but it can like crap. Since then, we haven't been able to start the car, which is what led me to believe there was valve damage, but it doesn't sound like there is. Take a look at my thread on MVS, if you have a minute: www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=400957#p400957
Robert DIY I tried your method and my truck almost started but then my battery died. my main question is, will I need to add another cap full of oil to each piston again? I don't know if the oil drains down past the pistons since it's thicker than gasoline. Thanks in advance!
OMG OMG OMG OMG.... My Brutha who told you that ? Can you please tell me who told you that ? Well this is what happens when you have another issue that causes either excessive fuel to be continually pushed into the cylinders after the car is turned off that extra gas will normally not just sit on top of the piston but because of wear and gravity will migrate down into the oil pan and because gasoline will remove oil it can clean the rings depending on how much gasoline has been running thru the bores it all ends up in the oil pan where if enough accumulates will possibly keep your car from starting but as far as moving your car out the garage and ShaZam you gots a lawnmower . I'm sorry my Broham .. ain't happenin look for leaking fuel pump diaphragm on older cars & trucks Or a bad electronic fuel injection system fault somewhere..
Its not a good idea to hold the key until the car starts, it puts an excessive load on the starter and could damage the component. If it doesn't start after 10 seconds wait a seconds.
One other thing that sometimes works when an engine is flooded: hold the gas pedal to floor (don't pump it) while cranking the engine. Old trick from the carburetor days. Fortunately, most EFI vehicles have a "clear flood" mode incorporated into the ECM programming. To enter "clear flood" mode, all you have to do is hold the gas pedal to the floor (WOT) with the key in the 'on' position, then crank the engine. The ECM will shut off the fuel injectors (but not the ignition coil) or command the injectors to go lean, which will allow the engine to pump in fresh air and hopefully clear out any excess fuel. Release the gas pedal once the engine fires up to resume normal ECM operation.
Had this happen to a coworker while I was on vacation last month. 2014 Toyota Tacoma. He was just about to call the tow truck but then called me for advice first. When he activated "clear flood" mode, the engine cranked for about 5 seconds then roared to life.
True, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip! Got it running.
Thank you!!! This worked on my 95’ T5-R
You don’t know how much you helped me right now. I can’t thank you enough
You made my day brother thank you! It worked for me this morning, it was exactly how Robert described, yesterday I quickly started the car to move a little further and stopped immediately and today it happened.
Robert! I have been following your channel for years ever since I inherited my grandmothers '94 Volvo 10 years ago. I moved the car into the garage, 20 feet, turned it off, went away for 5 days and came back to the car starting for .5 seconds and immediately turning off and not able to stat again. I towed it to the mechanic before realizing I should have checked your channel first. They had the car for 1 week and couldn't figure anything out, kept saying no compression and I need to replace the engine. I kept asking them to watch your video, but they never did. I asked them if I could come to the shop and try to start it myself, followed your procedure and it started immediately, no cranking necessary! I am very thankful for all the videos you make and have used them a lot over the years!
you are welcome.
@Robert DIY thanks so much. After going through the "basic diagnostic procedures" guide from the Volvo shop manuals. After scratching our heads and getting it to cough on starter fluid, your video was what led us to the solution! Almost at 300k miles in my 98 S90. Thanks again!
We used half a *cap* full of Mobile1 Synthetic per cylinder which smoked for a good 30 minutes. May I humbly suggest two things: (1) unplug the plugs and injector wires and crank for 30 - 60 seconds to clear any remaining fuel and (2) after adding the oil, crank the cylinders for 5 - 10 seconds with the plugs and injectors still unplugged to help coat the cylinders with oil. Starting the car took 60 seconds more of cranking. And leave that sucker on to burn off the oil and let your engine and catalytic converter get up to temp!
Thanks for watching.
I am in disbelief IT WORKED! Unbelievable lol, started my car yesterday to move it in my driveway for at least 15 seconds then shut it off, came out today and it wouldn't start so usually my first reaction is to come straight to your channel and you have saved me again! I appreciate your videos so much thank you Robert I thought my car finally quit on me.
What car do you have?
@@RobertDIY I have a 98 V70 non turbo.
Thanks for sharing. Glad you got it worked out.
Wow Robert you hit that right on the head. I had to walk to work because of the no start issue. When I got off I tried to start the vehicle and had the same issue but I didn't give up. My mind set was I was going to either kill the battery or flood the engine. She sputtered and sputtered. I gave her a break between attempts and verbally coached her along and BAM! She started. Ure a true Godsend just to have someone answer your inquiries the same day is priceless. Thank you.
Glad it's back on the road without a trip on a tow truck. ;)
Had this issue with my '95 850 GLT. troubleshot fuel, spark, air (during the process it occasionally seemed like it would start... but no joy)... was really scratching my head until I came across your video. The 5-second run matched my scenario. I had some reservations about the fix, not being an engine guy, but went ahead anyway and pulled all the plugs one by one and added a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. once everything was reassembled, the vehicle started immediately. Amazing! Thank you!
You are welcome.
Cheers for this vid, you've possibly saved our 2001 Golf, or at least a callout. Moved the car back up the driveway to make space for a visitor, then next day moved it back. This morning had exactly this problem. Haven't the tools for the plugs but left it a while and then cranked it for 30-60 seconds and eventually it caught and started. Now is fine but your explanation fits and makes perfect sense.
glad it helped.
Thanks Robert, I've had an 05 xc70 here for months after waiting 7 weeks for a cylinder head..put it all back together and could not figure out why it wouldn't start.
Did you get it running?
@@RobertDIY yes.
@Robery DIY Thank you so much for the tips in this video. I went from no idea why my '94 850 would not start, to a working car in an afternoon. Extremely helpful, I am massively grateful.
You're welcome!
Robert, THANK YOU! I just now had this happen to my 1995 Toyota T100 2.7L 4 Cylinder and found your video. I got this truck from my uncle a couple weeks ago. He had let it sit in his driveway un-driven for 8 years! I was flushing the oil with Liqui-Moly Pro Line Engine Flush. I had just poured it in the oil fill, which of course is over the cylinder head. I suppose the Liqui-Moly washed the oil seal off of the piston rings and just like you described. I had no compression! I was dumbfounded. How could the compression all of a sudden vanish. I just drove the truck the day before with no issues. Well your video was a troubleshooting time saving nugget of golden information! I didn't have to do the oil in the cylinder method as you described, but instead I tried the method one of your commenters, @AKJeeper, suggested. It seemed like the easiest thing to try first, before pulling all the plugs. I cranked the starterand it took about a 30 seconds to clear the cylinders of the excess fuel and Liqui-Moly and idle by itself. Thanks everyone!
Awesome
Hi Robert, Thanks so much for your discussing and solution to this very real syndrome. I was lucky to read your comment mentioning "lawnmower syndrome" in another one of your "Crank, no start" videos". If there is any way you can add tagline "Crank No Start" to this one, I'm sure it will get more views & help people. It doesn't come up when searching on those terms. Thanks for all you do!
Will do. Thanks for sharing.
@@RobertDIY I'm using a lot of your good lessons doing my first timing belt, water pump kit and cam and crank seals on my 2000 RX300. Toyota products good like Volvo too.
I have a volvo 940 GL that would not start I did this and it started first time. Thank you Robert.
Wow, that is the first time I have read about a red block having this issue. Thanks for sharing.
This information is highly beneficial! I have fallen victim to the Lawnmower Syndrome with my SR20DET in my 240SX and boy i wish i watched this video before tearing apart the whole motor. Definitely would have tried pouring oil in the cylinders!!!!
thanks for watching.
the other thing that will cause this issue is if you have injectors that are leaking while the car is sitting they are dripping fuel in the cylinders when you try to restart it you can actually hear the engine spending much faster like a broken timing belt I have found simply holding the accelerator to the floor cuts off fuel it will start run rough and eventually clear out and the car will be fine until the next time you shut it off the fix is to replace the injectors
that will be the same issue listed here.
Hi Robert, and everybody!
Glad to find this, I will give another chance to start the on the street, try to avoid to be transported. ('04 V70 2.5T FWD) Right now I don't have engien oil with me, anything else what I can use? For example WD-40?
Anyway I have to pull the head off, due to head gasket problem and coolant loss, I hope its only the gasket (should be, cuz head were refurbished, turbo new, pcv sys new, radiator new, screws etc new, temp sensor new, VVT hubs new, etc.) But it wasn't original gasket what went inside, this time I will use Victor Reinz or Fel-Pro, which I assume better then OEM.
I only use Volvo head gaskets.
@@RobertDIY I pulled the head today, problem seems to be with the block, gonna send it with the head to professional to measure and refurbish.
My 1994 Volvo 850, going in shop tomorrow..I’m getting 3 things fixed:
Door lock on drivers side
Door won’t stay open on drivers side, you have to hold it open with your foot.
Fuel pump relay...... WISHED YOU HAD THE JOB ROBERT!!
Good deal.
This metod workd for my V70 -99, "last step Before i started i hold the gas pedal to the floor, then cranked. Thx Robert for all help
You are welcome.
Yup, had this 3 times since 2013 with my V70 98 R manual. Moving it for a few seconds then shutting it off...It will start eventually, after a few seconds cranking, but will splutter for a little while after. Here in the UK, we call it bore wash.
thanks for sharing. i'll put that in the search key words.
@@RobertDIY I had this issue yesterday...The weird thing was, I had driven it a mile up the road, then shut it off, and took quite a few attempts to start, almost as though the plugs were wet. It eventually started, but was spluttering quite a lot, I revved it as much as I could, and was still a bit spluttery when driving it back home. I took the spark plugs out, and they looked OK. Started OK, when I put the plugs back in...Im wondering if it is the fuel pump relay? I am losing a little bit of water out of the header tank too. Nothing major though. Will give it a sniff test in a day or so, to make sure the head gasket is OK....I have never over heated the engine, so not sure if it would be the head gasket.
Had that happen to a friends 96 850 wagon. Fortunately it wasn't too bad. Let it sit for a little while, turned it over for a little bit, avoiding burning out the starter, and it started up, rough, but smoothed out
Glad you guys got it started. Kind of like flooding.
You are the man, Bro. God bless you
thanks for your support.
I have an 03 S80 with a crank no start issue please help only 97,xxx miles was running good but it was having a electrical issue the battery light was coming on and there was a message said electrical system service or close to it so I figured alternator? Then was told to check if it was that I need to let it run and take the positive terminal off if it stayed running it was not the alternator if it died it was well it died and won't start now I have to use jumper cables but it turns over almost starts but nope I'm banging my head try to figure it out any help would be appreciated
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Hey guy thanks alot ! Your a life saver 💪🏾. Just happened to me put some oil down the holes and new plugs and bam started right up
Awesome!
Hi Robert another great video on a solution I would have never thought of. I have just had a problem with engine cranking but not starting. I can smell fuel & I have a good spark on no 5 plug. So I ran the codes & got 1:2:2 no signal from Air Intake Temp Sensor. I have a 10V non-turbo 850 1995. Could a faulty sensor stop the car from starting? The last time I drove it was 4-days ago and stopped after about 2 miles.
Yes.
@@RobertDIY Thanks Robert I took it off & cleaned it, checked that the resistance dropped as I heated it with a hair dryer and it was fine. So refitted it, but car still non-starter. However, when I release the key it does try & white smoke comes out of the front of the engine near the intake manifold at the end furthest from the distributor. I know your a re a busy man, but I was hoping you might have some advice.
Hi Robert, I have an 05 xc90 2.5t awd. Got it for a steal. 180k timing belt and components changed at 178k. Guy I bought from took out cem. Said he turns key to start position, nothing. I reinstalled the cem, got xc90 to crank and start briefly for a split second. But will not stay running. Help
Probably has a bad CEM and will need programming. I know very little about the P2 electronics.
Robert DIY that's what I was thinking, with. CEM in the vehicle, I sometimes have to touch the wire harness to make stuff come on. I have a second cem as well, I install that one in the c at and I also have to pull on harness to get power. I'm also thinking there is a short or bad connection in the harness itself. I got the car for $850
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@@jonmccullum8692 CEM units often get water damage as drains get clogged and water level rises in cowl and leaks into CEM box, and white corrosion will impact connections at plugs, or on components, it is pretty obvious to see the white corrosion, and if you clean with electron spray and tooth brush you can repair problems of intermittent dash lights blinking out, gas gage not working, engine stalls, won't start, I had dozens of problem before pulling out and cleaning out corrosion, and unplugging drains in cowl, plus resealed box.
I started my Volvo this morning it started fine then 10 minutes later I get in to go to work and it was little jumpy then just died on me and now won't start back up what would be wrong ?
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Thank you very much! i was almost going to pull head out off my 850
Yikes!
My Volvo s70 horn keeps blowing and my indicator lights keep flashing and and when I try to crank it just doesn’t do anything like nothing what do I do
sounds like you triggered the alarm.
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After pulling my hair out after my 850 wouldn’t start after 3 weeks, this did the trick!!!!
Awesome
The supposed "Lawn-Mower Syndrome" (ring wash) does indeed exist. Just recently experienced it on my 2004 Volvo s60. Car was running beautifully but every once in a while it would have issues starting where it would crank and crank but not start. When my mechanic checked the compression it only had 45-50lbs of pressure on all 5 cylinders and he said it needed a new engine because the rings were bad. I called bullsh*t and had the car towed elsewhere. Turns out it was caused by the Variable Valve Timing being off slightly and opening the valves at the wrong time and the ring wash was contributing to the starting problem. Fixed the VVT timing and she's doing just fine.
MissingTripod Very nice. Glad you moved on. Hopefully he learned from that as well.
how'd you fix variable valve timing?
I don't understand your question???
The new mechanic purchased the proper tool that locks the camshafts in the proper positions while he turned the VVT mechanism to the correct adjustment. I believe the tool was somewhere in the neighborhood of $50.
By the way, to make them ULEV (Ultra Low Emission Vehicle) compliant, the engines that Volvo equipped in P2 model vehicles like mine (by design) do not have the piston rings fit completely (air/oil-tight) snug to the cylinder walls until the engine is up to operating temperature. This means that it is impossible to get a correct compression reading unless the engine is warmed up first.
will this work on a 2004 volvo s60? im experiencing these symptoms
It's possible but not likely. Check compression and for codes.
Hi Robert, or anyone else. My 98 s70 T5, starts and runs fine. But when warmed up, and shut off for a few minutes. Often won’t start again, till after it has sat a little longer. Is there a hot start valve, or could my injectors be leaking. I can’t find anything on this. Thanks for your help, if now, and certainly in the past. Bill.
ECT
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Hi Robert! I speak of Brazil. I have a 850SW Turbo 1995 and it only turns on once, being able to walk for hours, but after disconnecting it doesn’t start anymore, and has low compression on the measurement ... Then I have to turn off the candles and turn it back on, then it turns on again . What can it be? Help me!
Sad to say, I don't understand. Please write your request in Spanish.
Es triste decirlo, no lo entiendo. Por favor escriba su solicitud en español.
Yesterday my Tahoe cranks runs fine drove probably a hour away got home cut it off today it want start it has gas in it I can hear the fuel pump running I checked to see if I have spark from my coil pack from 1 plug on each side it turns over fine just will not start also went to the fuel line and pushed in on the thing to see if it's getting gas to the engine and it squirted gas out of the line any idea's
+thankgodimfresh th-cam.com/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/w-d-xo.html
Hey Robert I have a 2000 ford Taurus which i believe has a blown head gasket due to over heating. The car however wont even start now. I saw water come out of the muffler and believe maybe the cylinders are flooded with water or something. Can I try the lawnmower syndrome recovery steps of removing the spark plugs and adding a little bit of oil to get the engine started and then maybe try a head sealer like steel seal
No, that won't work. You can do a compression test and if more than 1 cylinder has zero compression, you will likely need a new head. Car Over Heated Now Will Not Start, Detailed - Auto Information Series
Robert DIY Damn thank for the reply Robert I appreciate it, and by a new head do you mean a new head gasket?
No, head. Sometimes the head is to damaged to make true and reuse. You can usually get a reconditioned head for $550 and repairing a damaged his can be the same cost with risk.
You can pull it and have a machine shop check it to see if it is repairable. That usually cost about $40 for the check and estimate.
Robert DIY ok thanks for the advice Robert
Hi, my 1998 s70 has a no start. I replaced the timing belt while it was not able to be used and checked timing it was fine (also the timing belt was old which is why i did) i checked the fuel pump and relay all good, replaced the camshaft sensor (it wasnt working) i was pretty damn sure it was that at this point. It wasnt. The crankshaft sensor is fine. Tested the spark plugs they are working. Im not sure if it is lawnmower syndrome, but the oil smells like fuel. Which is why im here.
What's missing?
@@RobertDIY i tried the "cure" to lawnmower syndrome it worked!
Hey Robert, how goes it? Here’s my story....
1996 850 Turbo Sedan - 137k Miles
Last Thursday I did start the car and moved it about 20 Feet and shut it down for a good cleaning. Then started it and parked it. Next day wouldn’t start. Cranks but no start. I had noticed a few times in the past month a weird barely noticeable rough idle at start but it would go away and drive just fine. It only did a few times and not every time, so I don’t know if this has something to do with this sudden no start issue.
So I have removed all spark plugs and they were nice and clean, they are Volvo plugs 3-1/2 yrs old 10k miles. (I live real close to work). And all 5 have a spark.
I also did put a little oil inside each cylinder head.
I hear the fuel pump humming about 3 seconds after turning key off. Not as loud as one video of yours. I went in the trunk and heard it. Also, I have fuel in the Rack, as it comes out of valve.
I have a good battery, even recharged it since I kind of drained it trying to start it as it almost starts, as an turns over a little bit than it just goes back to just cranking.
I have No check engine light.
Cam shaft turns around.
Replaced the fuel pump relay anyway since I had spare.
Still nothing. What you reckon?
Thanks.
Did you do what the video suggest?
I have that issue on a 2004 Volvo XC90. But I only have 10 psi in two cylinders the other four have zero compression. I adde about a tablespoon of oil to each cylinder but no luck. Now I don’t know if trying that one more time.
When was the last time you drove it?
Robert DIY last week it sat for about a week the when I tried to start it won’t fire. I put oil just like two hours ago and crank it and sounds like it was getting compression but after a while I gave up. So now I took the spark plugs out to let them dry and try again later.
Btw thanks for replying so quick. The reason I’m a little desperate is because I planned a road trip next month and now I may cancel that. Also that was the reason a let the suv seat there without driving it because it was running great I guess it didn’t like the break.
Strange.
I did the Headgasket on my Volvo 850 2.5 20v 1994 model and did timing, serpentine, waterpump new Also i replaced all sparksplugs.the Battery is pumped up.
Now it wont start its just cranking.It gets fuel, Motor is turning, camshaft turn too.
Now i get error code in A6 2-1-4, i checked the cable it gets 280 Ohm ,
I tried now even quickstarter Spray.
what can i do ?
+leif fischer th-cam.com/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this video, I would like to try that, what kind of oil you should put in the cylinders ? /Thanx
+Simon Aladdin the same kind you put in the crankcase.
Hey Robert I’m having this same problem I’m getting fuel I can hear the pump running however it won’t start, drove the car home from work park it move it a bit one day now it won’t start
What kind of car do you have?
@@RobertDIY @ 850 wagon 1996 turbo
Try pushing the pedal to the floor, and keep cranking till it starts. Same thing happened on my 95 850 glt after I moved it out of the way of one of my other cars
@@diablocls55 @ thanks I got it started a while back
Thanks for your help
@@terrymarsh8094 glad I could help, even tho you already figured it out.
Just broke something with the timing on my 1998 v90, have it all lined up and everything back together and there is no resistance on the starter by the engine when cranking.
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Hey Robert are you still messing around with Volvos?
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so my Volvo c70 was running but had hesitation when you got up to high rpm's, my husband thought it was the air filter so he changed it. 30 or so minutes after, we were driving up a hill and it bogged out. We tried starting it and nothing ever since... I've changed the fuel filter, pump, air filter, maf sensor, coil, cap, rotor, spark plugs, and the vaccum pump yet still NOTHING. please help if you have any idea
Codes?
+Robert DIY the code reader I used doesn't have Volvo in it..
What year is the car? Chances are, a turbo tube is loose or torn.
+Robert DIY 98, that would stop it from starting ?
+Gina Ford none of the tubes are bad, anything else we might look for?
I had a similar issue to this, but I think it was that I ran out of gas. My fuel sensor isn't working, and didn't show my a low fuel gauge light, so I think i ran it dry. D'oh!
but I got it started after putting in enough gas to prime it again. Lesson learned. Buy new fuel sensor!
btw, are you (by any chance) coming out to Portland for the IPD "Garage Sale"? (if you know what that is).
Not sure to say YES or NO, lol. Yes I do know what the iPd garage sale is, I've been an iPd customer since 1987. No I am not able to attend. Thanks for watching.
Well...you did it again, big guy! THX
+dantaniondb cool.
I have a 2013 camaro I was driving and it just gave out on the highway changed the timing time because I had no compression when I changed the chain I had compression in all cylinders for a couple of cranks but still would not start then it lost all compression again
Ouch!
Just had Swifty die on me yesterday. just a "Click" not sure what's going on but I'm gonna swap out wires, cap and msd ignition because they are overdue. Hopefully it's not the starter.
If the car is not cranking, it has nothing to do with those other ignition parts. It's either a starter or a bad battery connection.
Many thanks! Saved me today!
Awesome!
On my car could I have f the valves up when the seprtine belt popped
I have no idea. I don't even know what kind of car you have. 🤔
Serpentine belt? No. Timing belt? Definitely.
You mean Timing belt?
Happened on a 98 S70 I had 10 yrs ago. Changed plugs,fired right up. Weird.
Ouch!
It can foul the plugs.
Hi, Robert. Maybe similar problem. Volvo 850 2.0 20v aut. 1995, 225 kkm on it, been used rare, rather on short distances. Earlier - 1kkm before - changed the oil from 10w40 semisynth to synth 5w40. After staying for a week - did not start. Cranked several times - day by day - and no any answer. Called the mechanic. He checked the spark - ok, fuel - there is fuel and the fuel pomp. It works. No codes in memory. But finally he checked the compression. During cranking the compression was low, but double higher when added oil into cylinders. Help if have any idea. Thank you. Greets from Poland.
It turned out that the pistons rings been 'roasted'. Replaced them with new ones.
I drove my 96 volvo 850 wagon about a mile away from my house, had it parked for about 5 hours, drove it back to my house. About 2 hours later it wouldn't start (it did crank though). Is my car suffering from lawnmower syndrome?
This sounds like the problem I'm having I will try it thank you
You are welcome
Great Video! - A.D.$
Thanks. I'll try this on my s70. Ram code. It came up as a p0118. But was having problems similar yo this before.
See if spark is missing?
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I never heard of this ???
now I know and knowing is half the battle ...the other half is knuckle busting wrench turning manual labor..
Yes, it's crazy. I have never heard of it with any other car.
Thank you so much robert! This worked for me.
You are welcome.
Thank you very much
you are welcome.
I bet this is exactly what's going on with my cousin's car right now. We just did the timing belt and it wouldn't start, and we got scared we did something wrong.
+Alex P did you roll it over by hand before you started it?
Robert DIY We did. It started and ran for a couple seconds, but it can like crap. Since then, we haven't been able to start the car, which is what led me to believe there was valve damage, but it doesn't sound like there is. Take a look at my thread on MVS, if you have a minute: www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=400957#p400957
+Alex P Have you checked compression?
Robert DIY Not yet
Arthur, I could not replay to your post so I sent you a private message.
Robert DIY I tried your method and my truck almost started but then my battery died. my main question is, will I need to add another cap full of oil to each piston again? I don't know if the oil drains down past the pistons since it's thicker than gasoline. Thanks in advance!
Mine starts the first time i crank it, But when i shut it off it won't start again. Then i leave it for 6 hours and it starts right up
What kind of car do you have?
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1991 850 GLT with the 170HP 2.5 20v
OMG OMG OMG OMG.... My Brutha who told you that ? Can you please tell me who told you that ? Well this is what happens when you have another issue that causes either excessive fuel to be continually pushed into the cylinders after the car is turned off that extra gas will normally not just sit on top of the piston but because of wear and gravity will migrate down into the oil pan and because gasoline will remove oil it can clean the rings depending on how much gasoline has been running thru the bores it all ends up in the oil pan where if enough accumulates will possibly keep your car from starting but as far as moving your car out the garage and ShaZam you gots a lawnmower . I'm sorry my Broham .. ain't happenin look for leaking fuel pump diaphragm on older cars & trucks Or a bad electronic fuel injection system fault somewhere..
Interesting. 😳
Its not a good idea to hold the key until the car starts, it puts an excessive load on the starter and could damage the component. If it doesn't start after 10 seconds wait a seconds.
Then how will you clear this condition?
you are correct on what you said but you have to let the starter cool if its cranked for more than 10 seconds nonstop.
ok.
That is only the case when you have engine compression resisting the starter motor, when you have the LMS, it is because of a loss of compression.
99s80 volvo
Did you watch the will not start video?