I have 2009 Corolla LE that my mother bought new and gave it to me about 6 years ago at 85,000 miles. In her time with it, the water pump failed and put considerable coolant into the alternator and so it was replaced also, both under Toyota warranty. I now have 263,000 miles on it and it runs smooth as day one. I have changed oil every 3-4K miles, dropped the tranny pan and cleaned it and new screen at 160K miles (I do mostly highway driving), and have changed trans fluid (WS only from Toyota dealer), twice since then. I have no oil burning (I do add 3 oz of Lucas gas treatment with upper cylinder lubricant every fill up... I buy it by the gallon), and oil level still full at change time. Did have an ignition coil go bad right at 200K miles and even though I have flushed radiator twice since i have had it, the radiator started major leak at abut 245K miles and had to replace it. Had recalls performed on drivers door power window buttons master pod and passenger air bag. Overall, been a truly reliable car. Heck, my mom had Toyota dealer replace brakes all around just before she gave it to me, and they are nearing 200K miles on brakes now, and still not needing replacement. Again, I do mostly highway driving though. My check engine light is on now and the code is bad evap canister. I am of low means, and cannot afford to replace it, but thankfully no annual vehicle emissions inspections where I live, so I am going to leave as is. Thanks for a very good info filled video here Peter, we appreciate it. Wish I could retain you to do work on care in future, but Indiana is LONG way from CA sadly.
If the water pump fails, most likely the antifreeze was not changed every 50,000 miles. New antifreeze protects both the water pump AND the head gaskets!
I have this exact car, 2009 Corolla LE with 167,000 miles now. I purchased it used when it was 80,000 miles. I have changed the oil using full synthetic 0w-20 every 5,000 miles since I bought it. My Corolla does not consume absolutely any oil every 5,000 miles (I do my own oil change). I had to replace the alternator (once), the evap canister (once) and water pump (twice) since I bought it, but that's it (plus normal maintenance, like brake pads, etc.) Great car, very reliable, very nice mileage (34+ mpg).
Just bought one with 51,000 miles in mint condition. It ran out of oil in 1000 miles! Now the engine rattles. Took off the valve cover and its nasty inside. Obviously it didnt have proper oil changes! You cant go 10,000 on any Toyota I have learned! My car is using 1qt per 275 miles!!! Stuck piston rings, very poor design!
Bought a 2013 121K for my daughter. Does not burn oil. Easy to work on. Fun car. Regular oil changes are important to keep them from turning into oil burners. If buying one check the tail pipe for oil residue to make sure they are not burners.
I think you helped me solve my problem! I’ve had a front knocking for a long time on my 2010 Corolla, changed motor mounts, ball joints, struts, and still makes the noise over certain bumps. Never thought to check the wheel bearings! Thanks!! I’m at 110k miles and it never burns any oil (I change w/ full synthetic every 6k miles). Never had a problem with water pump, I’ve kept fresh clean Toyota coolant in the system. Never had any problems with the evap canister but I learned to fill the gas tank until the first click. Overfilling the tank will ruin that canister and fill it with gas, I think that’s why some ppl have problems with it. Love your videos Petr, keep it up! 👍
I use my 2012 Corolla LE for a 60 mile roundtrip commute 5 days a week. Very reliable over the past 141K miles. Basic maintenance is all that has been needed and does not burn a drop of oil between oil changes. Only repairs needed have been a new alternator and new starter.
Hello. How did you know that you had to change the starter? Mine is taking like 4 to 5 seconds to start some times, some times it starts immediately. Thanks in advance.
I have a Toyota Corolla, model 2008, 1,400 cc, 97 hp, 4zz-fe engine. The only problem my car had was the water pump (I'm not talking about normal wear and tear). I maintain my car myself and I can say that it is a very good, safe and reliable car.
I have a 2011 Corolla Levin ZR [Australia] with only 72,000Km [43,500 Miles]. I’ve owned it for 7 years and do all my own maintenance. Apart from fluid changes, the only thing that has gone wrong with the car was a rear wheel bearing that suddenly quit on me - it took me 35 minutes to replace it, as it is a hub assembly [the Australian Corolla has rear disc brakes]. The Corolla Levin ZR is the top spec model, so has an electric sunroof, dual climate control air con, HID low-beam headlights, auto-on wipers & headlights, and the best front bucket sports seats. Barring accidents or some catastrophic failure, I think I’ll keep this car for the next 20 years, as it is just the best car ever, and looks like it was just driven off the dealers yard. Love Toyota… 👍
@@tomwalma4762 - None at all in Perth, WA. It shows too, as the underside of my car still looks brand new. I’m originally from Scotland so I know what constant wet weather does to cars. 😁
I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix 4WD (Corolla Sport Wagon) with 191,000 miles. It is the love child of a Ferrari and a UPS truck. It is an excellent vehicle.
I have a 2011 corolla, been maintained very well. Just made it to 240k miles, original engine and transmission. Change the oil every 5k and trans fluid every 50k.
I have a 2010 Matrix, 1.8, manual tranny. 350,000 km on it, and the only actual repair has been a new transmission put in at about 150,000. I have learned to do the maintenance on it from guys like you ( thank you!) and plan to keep driving it for as long as I can. I do need new CV axles as the boots are torn, but no symptoms yet and I'm waiting until they start. Then I will learn something new again!
Keep the original CV shafts because many aftermarket especially the driver's side say it vibrates since they might not be designed as thick or come with the correct dampeners installed. Best thing is get a boot lot now and repack the grease before the bearings in the joints go out.
That sounds like good advice, thank you. I figured once the boot split it was just a waiting game, but sounds like maybe I can be proactive about it. It will have to survive until spring- way too cold right now. Would you recommend Toyota or would something like Dorman be OK?
I got tired of the oil burning issues of the Corollas, so I traded my last one for a Yaris. 1.5 engine and no oil burning yet at 170k miles. Keeping my fingers crossed.
I disliked the first gen Yaris' but the new ones especially the hatchbacks are really surprising and cute! Not this tiny rehash of the old Echo *shivers* hated driving that little clown car Echo
@@LAactor Loved my 1sr Gen Yaris 2002 1.3L 2NZ-FE 4speed auto,had it for 13yrs, decided to get the 3rd Gen,it's abit bigger. Didn't like the 2nd Gen,didn't attract me.
Mine is a 2010 Corolla with 160,000 miles and absolutely none of these issues. Transmission slips accelerating at or above 95mph, but that's easily avoidable by not driving 90mph
I have a 2013 Corolla LE, 240,000 miles. Major repairs needed were auto trans rebuilds at 127k, and 213k, head gasket recently at 235k (leaking coolant into cylinders 1 and 2, causing misfires and running hot, oil was OK). Replaced drivers side wheel bearing at about 150k. Everyone including transmission shop techs say that they never see Corollas with transmission issues, I guess mine is the exception. No oil burning ( I do my own oil changes every 4500-5000 miles, I don't trust anyone else to put in the correct oil).
I have put a lot into my 2013 LE. I'm sick of giving money to mechanics who basically rob me. $214 parts and labor for spark plugs but the part was listed as $14 from Mr. Tire. I just bought a new starter, I refuse to pay another mechanic. People talk about EVs but they don't have to replace so many parts. I am not into hemorrhaging money on a car if I can do the work myself.
I own a 2012 Corolla LE with 108,000 miles on it. The only problem I have is in the winter at Syracuse, New York State! ICE forms on the front-wheel drive mechanism from road slush, it causes severe vibration at highway speeds! I tried melting the ice off at car washes to no avail. Now I only drive it when the roads are totally frozen over! That said, I change the oil every 5,000 miles and the engine doesn't burn a drop!
I got a 2006 corolla for my son's first car. 168k needed a windshield, tires, clock spring, and some exhaust work but it's a great car. We've worked on it together since August. He's learning about car maintenance in the process. We changed out the plugs as they were original as well as brake pads and rotors Too.
I can confirm the Evap cannister is expensive. I bought a 2009 Rav4 with the 2GR-FE in October and it cost me $2,600 Canadian Dollars to replace the cannister. Apparently, this was due to the previous owner overfilling the gas tank. Moral of the story: always have a car inspected before buying. The $260 you spend could save you a large bill!
Toyota used defective evap canisters. Overfilling did not cause the failure. Someone ripped you off on the repair big time. All used cars have hidden issues that most mechanics would never find. There is a reason the previous owner dumped the car.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Yeah, you're right, there was a TSB for this issue (I can't remember the number or I'd post). A CEL came on after three days of driving. I called the previous owner, he confirmed that the issue existed and had the codes cleared before the sale. Getting ripped off sucks. Thankfully, the car works well now! 👌
Great video, as usual! Just have a question for you, Sir. I bought a 2010 Corolla 1.8 with 135K miles a few months ago and the only mechanical issue I'm having is a delay in gear shifting when going up from 1st to 2nd gear only. All others gears shift perfectly going up and down. It's just from 1st to 2nd gears. Recently changed the ATF but with no success. Do you have any ideas, as what can be the problem? Thank you!
Never had major issue with transmission as i drain and fill 2 quarts of that oil every 30k mile. Motor oil at 5k mile. Now my car has 237k miles. Runs like when a bought it 93k mile. did water pump drive belt, front suspension parts like control arm, sway bar link, ball joint, spark plugs , struts, all one time. now just replaced front left side wheel bearing. Do most of maintenance myself. Very reliable still go on long drive for 12 hrs. to 14 hrs. Only fuel gauge has stopped working, only work when car is cold.
Just want to point out, the NGK (ILKAR7B11 aka 4912) spark plugs you mention are in fact iridium and good for Corolla. I know the Denso ones are OEM, but I doubt using the NGK ones would cause problems. Certainly haven't had any issues myself. Probably just best to replace all spark plugs, and not the one that's misfiring.
I have a 1mz-fe that calls for dual electrode platinum plugs. I've alternated between Denso and NGK with no issues. NGK also makes an iridium alternative but Toyota adviced me to stick with the platinum.
@@zaffo757 the engineers designed the engine for the split electrode platinum plug for a reason, but yeah the engine will run on singles. That engine was designed before iridiums were invented.
Thank You Very much for your time to take the Video Peter. Please post more videos on this vehicle...... Electric Steering??? holy smokes.. All very best From Canada..
My daughter has a 2014 Matrix, Canadian model. She loves it. Very practical, economical and well built. She DOES wish it had a bit more horsepower though, since she drives it over mountain passes. Great car, though.
Personally, when I recommend Corollas, I recommend the 03-08 generation, if they're lucky enough to find one that was not abused. Mine is an '07, and it doesn't use any measurable amount of oil in a 5k interval. That and it has 263+k miles on it currently.
I wholeheartedly agree. I've had two of that generation(9th gen). My first one was a 06 CE that I took from 48,000 miles to 248000 miles before it was totaled. I replaced it with my current car an 07 S model. When I got it five years ago and had 125,000 miles on it. It now currently has 270,000. I still use it on road trips and it is my daily. This car will live forever. Parts are stupid cheap and they're stupid easy to change. And in this used-car Market it makes sense to just spend the money to fix them.
@@randalhill6283 not sure if you're aware, but all Corollas of this generation have a flaw with the odometer. They stop working at 299,999 miles and the car then drops in value quite a bit because now the car is considered to be a "true miles unknown" vehicle.
The 03-08 model is a lovely car but has that pesky high idle when cold. Don't know why they were designed like that. Mechanics say 'that's just the way the japanese do it'.
@@jamessawyer479 that is how they do it. At least with Toyo/Lex as all my vehicles from mid 90's to 00's to late 00's all have high idle to get them to operating temps. Not exclusive to Toyota. Chevys that #VGG works on also do the same thing. Everything works more efficiently at operating temps.
Our 2013 Corolla sits at about 190k, had some weird issues a year ago with bad missfires, turned out 2 spark plugs loosened up and broke the tips, super odd to us as we did them and they lasted almost 2 years with no issues and our other vehicles have no issues (bad torque wrench maybe?). But we are starting to hit that oil burning period where at the change time it is a quart low. The trans isnt going out but it doesn't like the lower shifts as much has the higher gears (it's a highway car). Oher than brakes, rears too, battery, tires, oil, nothing has gone bad. Did front wheel bearings at about 120k, and lower control arms at 180k. Rear brakes need to be adjusted manually pretty often
My toyota ch-r has a 3zr-fae engine which is the same as this engine just a larger displacement and i change my oil every 3k miles. Hopefully that way i can avoid any oil related issues.
Well, I have a 2014 Toyota Corolla, engine is 2ZR-FE. It has 240,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil. Never changed alternator, never changed water pump, no problem with the transmission. I change oil every 5000 miles (0w20 full synthetic, and drain the automatic transmission (not a CVT) and add fresh every 20,000 miles. No misfires either. And NGK Iridium plugs are fine in this engine. Use them all the time, no issues, get 35 MPG. No problems at all with this car.
Great channel My 2007 auris has 1zrfe 1.6 engine it doesn’t seem to have oil problems 150000 miles yet hopefully the yearly oil change Helps it’s still has original denso iridium plugs in it .
Yes. Oil burning produces excess carbon fouling which clogs up the active catalyzing sites, AND it plates the sites with ZDDP or molybdenum disulfide or titanium dioxide depending on the brand and type of oil used which are all antiwear sacrificial compounds. The plated-over and fouling clogged sites can no longer come into contact with NOx and hydrocarbon molecules to crack them like intended. That ends up causing a P0420 and the catalytic converter is dead at that point. :( Just have it replaced with a universal aftermarket catalytic converter at an exhaust/muffler shop. Keep in mind though, that those aftermarket cats have less catalyzing sites/honeycomb matrix material and that means they have less of a surplus catalyzing capacity from the start. The original cat may have been able to lose 30% of its honeycomb matrix surface area and active sites to this carbon and AW additive poisoning before it becomes inadequate and "dead," but an aftermarket cat may only be able to lose 10% before it becomes inadequate and "dead" and therefore needs replacing way sooner than a new OE cat would. Considering the massive difference in price, it's still worth it to go aftermarket and replace it more often. Consider though, that Mazda RX8 Renesis engines INTENTIONALLY burn engine oil by factory design using oil injectors, and their cats last a pretty long time. 🤷🏻♂️ Even when people delete that unreliable oil injection system and use 2 stroke weed whacker premix oil in the gasoline, the cat is fine for a pretty long time. 🤷🏻♂️ Using conventional engine oil is best for an engine that burns an insane amount of oil. Mazda required conventional oil only because of that oil burning by design. Synthetic oils are engineered NOT to burn or vaporize so that natural piston engine consumption is reduced. That leads to more carbon fouling when it is constantly injected as in the RX8 rotary Renesis engine. All piston engines burn a tiny bit of oil because there is a small film of oil left on the cylinder walls which is vaporized and burned and exhausted during the power stroke. The synthetic oils are made to resist that and they do a good job. If your piston engine is ducking down a quart every 500 miles, conventional oil is better because it'll burn more cleanly when it inevitably ends up being vaporized and burned in the combustion chambers.
I have a miss fire on cylinder 4. spark plugs and a coil did not fix it. From everything i see online it seems like the piston rings are going or the head gasket is blown.. I don't think its the head gasket though. I thought maybe it could be the knock sensor because i only get pinging noise when i accelerate in gear but wouldn't there be more codes if that was the case?. im stumped..ive been to 2 mechanics and they couldn't figure it out.
I did it to my 2012 2ZR-FE Corolla. Basically, the key things you need to know are: Get a new gasket from the dealer or online. The old one may be "reusable" but leaks after the TB are under high vacuum and they will suck in unmetered air. So I personally replace all intake gaskets after the TB on principle. They are not expensive. Before you start the process, disconnect the black negative battery cable from the battery and then unplug the electrical connector from the throttle body. You do NOT want to go near the TB while it's plugged in, both because the motor can really hurt your finger and because touching the butterfly plate while it's plugged in can cause damage or issues with it as a result. Always unplug it first. You will need to remove 2 coolant lines. I like to get a pair of needle nose vice grips, put a piece of soft and squishy rubber hose on each jaw, and use them to clamp off the coolant hose so they don't leak. You will lose a little bit that drains out of the TB itself. No biggie. I always suggest putting spring type clamps back into the molded indentation exactly as they say as they have created it over time being in place. Less likely to leak that way. Once you get the TB removed from the intake manifold, you can VERY SLOWLY AND GENTLY push the throttle plate open with your fingers and hold it open or block it open with a wad of paper towels so that you can clean its edge and the step of the TB that sits beneath the edge. ONLY use throttle body cleaner spray. It is not expensive, and it's special. Get it at any AutoZone/Orielly's/NAPA etc. Only use a soft brush and rags or toilet paper to clean it. I use an old retired extra soft toothbrush that I don't need anymore. A soft nylon M16 cleaning kit brush works well too if you're a gun guy. No copper, brass, bronze, or steel brushes here at all. Only a soft plastic or even horse hair type brush like a soldering paste acid brush could work. For the caked on carbon though, a toothbrush works best. Pay attention to any holes in the bore if the throttle body. Make sure they are carefully clean and freely open. I can't remember if there are any in our Corolla TBs. I don't think so, but not sure. Clean the edge of the butterfly plate well. That edge and the part of the bore that it is directly next to while closed at idle is what determines how well the engine runs at and regulates idle speeds the computer holds the TB butterfly open ever so slightly and any crude on those surfaces will choke off that small gap and make it so the computer has to open it further. A clean, smooth surface is best. Once everything is nice and clean and spiffy, reinstall everything and be sure to use common sense or a torque wrench to reinstall the bolts and nuts holding the TB into the plastic (!!!) intake manifold. The soft rubber style gasket won't be happy if you crush the shit out of it. Common sense here, use a 1/4 inch socket wrench and be mindful. Reconnect the battery, turn the key on, and start it up. It will need to relearn the throttle body behavior and positions again. I suggest this procedure found in other Toyota FSMs: Start the engine and let it idle until it is full warned up at operating temperature. Then drive it steadily at a speed equal to or slightly faster than 31mph for 3-5 minutes. Then park it and let it idle for 2 minutes. Drive again at 31mph or slightly faster for another 3-5 minutes. Idle again for 2 minutes. Drive one last time at 31mph or a tiny bit faster for 3-5 minutes and then idle again for 2 minutes. So, warn it up and then do 3 periods of 31mph driving for 3-5 minutes each separated by 3 idling periods of 2 minutes each. After the last 2 minute idling period, it'll be relearned and back to normal. 👍 Let it cool down and then top off the coolant if necessary after it's fully cooled. Since that air bubble will have burped out after that and the cap will have sucked in replacement coolant, the reservoir may be a bit low. You're done at that point. I suggest cleaning the mass air flow sensor at the same time. ONLY use mass air flow sensor cleaner, and allow the spray of the can do all the work. Don't touch the sensor element at all, and don't try to scrub or rub it. Blast it off, and let it dry and then put it back in. 👍
@@jamessawyer479 You are totally welcome. :) TB cleaning is a touchy subject because of how many cars have difficulty relearning their position. Some do it automatically like our cars, others need a specific peddle procedure, and others even need a scan tool to do it! 😳 Touching it while plugged in cases damage and some people make that mistake. It's so much simpler to do a cable TB, but fly by wire is what we got so no use complaining. 😁 Good luck!
2011 Corolla S. MAF is a sensitive one. Recommend OEM. It will not take remanufactured over priced garbage parts. I have also gone and replaced the stupid canister twice now. Their is a lot of junk parts comming from CHINA. Thanks for making something that only lasts two months then I got to waste my time to fix and replace again and again. Now, I go with OEM from dealer when I needs parts. BS.
Have a 2011 one myself. It been very reliable. Mine doesn't consume oil. 5k changes all it's life with synthetic. My complaint is steering. The steering seems have excessive play. Toyota shop and dealer both say nothing wrong.
Hi Peter , I have a auris hybrid touring sports 2015 , I have done most of the work on it , but the only thing that I am not sure about doing, is back brake rotors and pads , as it has the automatic parking brake , do you have to have a scan tool for it ,
Peter, I have an '09 Corolla, 1.8L with 92K miles. I replaced the Intake VVT gear due to rattle and changed out the timing chain tensioner. I used both Toyota OEM parts with latest part numbers. However, on cold starts, mainly in winter and/or setting a day or two, I still have the cold start rattle. Why? Should I have also replaced the exhaust VVT gear?
Thanks, Peter. I have 2013 Corolla LE 1.8L bought @ 40Kmi proper maintenance, never overload or overheated, and @ 105Kmi failed head gasket (misfired 2 & 4 cylinders, bunch of DTC, check engine light ON e.t.c.) Before I had 3 Corollas ‘91, ‘96 & ‘2005 and never happened so serious trouble. All they run 200Kmi and more until sold. Still I in puzzle about cause of failed HG on my 2zr-fe. Could it be manufacturer’s defect or something else? Unimportant problems are weak stabilizer’s links and leakage of timing chain cover seal. Overall it is good reliable vehicle as most Toyotas.
Hi Petr. I have an oil residue on the passenger side of the engine. I can’t tell if it’s leaking from the sensor or it’s coming off the timing chain tensioner. It’s a 2011 corolla with nearly 300000km. Any advice?
I have had my 2012 Toyota Corolla for 12 years and the only major repairs I have had is to replace the engine which only had 22,000 miles on along with minor repairs like the fuel pump, water pump, the ignition coil. I also just replaced the catalytic converter on it. The problem I started to have is when I drove it for some odd reason it cut off and started to jerk when I tried to give gas and this has happened maybe four times. What could the problem?? Please help me
I also have a 2009 Corolla with 89k miles. I received the full service records with vehicle and confirmed trans oil was never replaced. I heard on another channel that changing the trans oil for the first time late in the vehicles life can cause gear damage. Do you recommend changing the trans oil at this age and mileage or leave it?
He can only make videos of the vehicles that come into the bay. But if there are many of you RAV owners out there, keep asking in the comments and just maybe he will have to find a RAV project car from marketplace or copart to bring onto the channel. But remember, that platform is a combination of the Camry and Corolla vehicles along with others in the MC body platform by Toyota. Search results can yield similar solutions if you look for Camry by reasoning that the same engine goes in both and that car is a popular repair topic since so many have it.
My 2 cents... I have 2010 corolla S with 265000.You mentioned that it's leaking from chain tensioner this generation has gasket improved (crash gasket) and according to my reaserch not the source of leak. Unfortunately it's the seal (silicone) on timing chain cover right wher block and top of the engine meets. Suction reseal timing chain cover. Expensive repair at dealer.
I got a 2010 corolla with a front timing cover leak looking to see if it's worth fixing it miles is 127.00 and struts are bad. It's cost. About. 2500 to fix
I've never seen any of your video inspecting condensors. Also when should condensor be replaced and how should be maintained? My last two rows are kinda gone but condensor is not leaking. What would you recommend?
Like AC condenser? Does your AC system still blow cold? You should maintain it by hosing off the front of bugs and debris and keeping it clean and clear. I don't understand how you mean the last two rows are gone without it leaking refrigerant.
@@LAactor Thank you for your feedback. Yes, AC condenser It blows cold and so far it works fine. 2005 Totota Previa/Estima with 280k km. What I mean quite a few bottom fins are missing. Will send you a few pictures.
@@lbproductions3613 you don't have to. It's not a system critical component. I wouldn't touch it. Say you move your radiator to get at it and that breaks or the threads to something gets pulled out. Or the clips for your bumper cover or absorbing material rust and break off. I doubt even anything can burst and blow a shard into the radiator. If it works leave it and just keep an eye on it. If anything, it's a good false flag if you take it to a mechanic and they say it's an immediate required replacement or you could die. Then you know that mechanic is shady and you can save yourself. You don't really maintain or replace it. As long as the system stays cold and isn't leaking, the oil and refrigerant inside stays inside. Usually no need to top off the PAG oil. And if it's still R12 and not R134a, that old stuff is scarce and runs a pretty penny.
@@LAactorAgain, thank you for your feedback. It's very much appreciated. I got a sort of warning from my mechanic but the replacement is so expensive and not sure if the car is worth that investment. On the other hand it's not leaking and works fine. I did purchas condenser foam and was planning to take off the bumper and spray it and clean it with water. Now I will think twice .
I have Toyota Corolla s sport 2013 model , the TRAC OFF AND CHECK LIGHT COME ON THE DASHBOARD ALWAYS, WHEN I USE MACHINE TO CLEAR IT COME BACK IN THREE DAY TIME SO PLEASE WHAT IS THE PROBLEM.....
Peter , I have a 2012 corolla s with almost 95k miles on it and with a 2zr-fe engine. The water pump just started making a noise the other day. Have you ever seen where the water pumps don't leak, but make a noise? lmk. Thank you. Love your channel.
That happned to mine 2013 about 95000 miles. Made this ugly loud sound. I got scared it was something serous. No just the water pump. Got it changed out.
It appears that the gasket on the oil filler cap has failed causing oil to be vented out of the valve cover. Looks like that Corolla has been through a war.
I’ve had a variant of that engine for several years 2ZR-FAE. It was a great engine, a little underpowered when driving in the Alps. Maybe it was the thinner air. This engine looks dirty. I’d engine clean it (engine flush) to sort of make sure the piston rings are moving freely. I’d make sure it has the correct weight of oil. In my old Toyota Verso (2ZR-FAE) it was 0w-20.
Hi, I recently buy Corolla E15 from 2008 with gasoline 1.6 (exactly Toyota Corolla 1.6 16V Dual VVT-i 124KM 1ZR-FE) and it have 5W30 oil, when I check it, it's looking really good and fresh and not smell much (some oil from other gasoline cars often smell gasoline), previous user change oil regularly with this type of engine oil - 5W30. Should I stay with that oil or change it for 0W20?? Some folks say I should cause they use it and it's better for that engine. My confusion is big cause on official website there is information that engine can use 5W30 or 0W20, and both are good for that engine. Pretty please correct me if I'm wrong, there is nothing bad if I gonna use 5W30 like previous owner and I don't need to change it to 0W20 cause it's good and nothing wrong is gonna happen right? Sorry for my English it's not my main language. Thanks for any help Greetings
I have a 2011 went out today and it would not start. When I went to crank it over I turned the key and car keeps trying to turn over until I turned the key off.
It is cheaper to change the engine oil every 5,000 miles and the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles rather than changing the engine or transmission due to lack of maintenance!
The motor mounts on my Toyota 2016 are weak, and the car vibrates sometimes when idle…is it urgent or can it last a couple more months so I can trade it in? Thank you!
It will last. If Toyota originals. It's not that old and I doubt they will go after that time. It could be a dirty IAC or some other problem causing a more unbalanced engine shake but you'll be fine. You can change the dogbone for $20 from rockauto if it has that. Every shop always tries to charge $100 and make easy money from it but they all will fail after a few years due to inferior aftermarket parts
i own a 2010 corolla, great car so far, the only problem i have is when i hit the brakes and the car stop it starts a little vibration, i still dont know what the problems is.
Avoid the 8th Gen Corolla like the plague (98-02). It was probably one of the worst Toyotas ever made. The 03 was decent, however some of the Corollas with the 1.8 loved to burn copious amounts of oil after 100k miles if they were not meticulously maintained. Unfortunately this is something that will not be apparent on a test drive. You need to check the car with a high level scan tool, check the spark plugs, and check the compression on all 4 cylinders. The best Corollas are the 2020 and up 2.0 liter.
@@royportalise5269 No problem, also avoid the Corolla with the 2.4 liter engine. If you see one, walk away. These cars can last a long time if maintained well.
Most common failure I've seen with this generation of Corolla is a failure of the Charcoal Canister due to moisture and dust intrusion, particularly if it has been driven on primarily unpaved roads.
@@BillyBob-fd5ht Amazingly, all the Fords I owned rusted horribly here in Central New York State, but no rust so far on the 10-year-old Toyota Corolla!
@@bryancarlson3673 my mistake, thought i was on his latest video on the toyota echo.Just North of you in Canada. Corolla last forever.I drive a 2012 prius V no rust,
@@zaffo757 I had my 2012 Corolla 2ZR-FE's oil analyzed by Blackstone in 02/2020 at 5,100 miles. The same engine in this video. It was Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic GTL Technology 0W-20 oil and was used with a Toyota TRD synthetic media filter. Driven 100% city miles, with lots of cold starts and short tripping, in an EXTREMELY hot and very dusty desert environment. Beyond a doubt severe service conditions. The oil sample was perfect. Blackstone attached the following comments with the analysis report: "Your Toyota just aced this first round of testing, so it should be good for some time. Universal averages show typical wear for a 2ZR-FE engine that's put about 7,700 miles on the oil, and compared to those, your metals are even lower than we'd usually expect for a shorter interval of 5,100 miles. No fuel, water, or coolant was detected, and the viscosity is in spec for 0W/20. A 3.2 TBN reading means the oil still had plenty of active additive left in reserve since 1.0 is the minimum. A longer run should be perfectly fine, so try 7,000 miles." No fuel dilution, so piston ring and cylinder wall seal was great. No water, so PCV system works great. That was despite the frequent short tripping. TBN was still more than adequate. Viscosity was still great. Wear metals being low are the key indicators of protection. The wear metals indicate how much engine is actually getting chewed up from use. My readings were even lower than normal. This shows 2 things: First, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum GTL are AMAZING oils. They protect the metal very well. Second, 5,000 miles is a waste of oil. I wasted that oil when I drained it at 5,100 miles and sent in that sample. They suggest 7,000 instead. Toyota's standard service interval is 7,500 miles for this engine, which would be operating the car in ideal conditions. Like I said, the place I drive is very severe service. I will be retesting at 7,000 miles as suggested, and I betcha it's actually STILL good at that point too. If the laboratory analysis says it is still usable, it's still usable. 🤷🏻♂️ Can't argue with cold hard mathematics. CAN you change the oil early? Yeah. You'd be wasting money though. Why not change it at 1,000 miles just to be safe? Instead, why not test it in a lab and determine where the point of diminishing returns actually is? The point where the oil is just starting to lose its ability to protect the engine and it's worth it to change it out. 🤷🏻♂️ If it can still protect the engine well at 20,000 miles, I see no reason to drain it and replace it. Good is good, plain and simple. If oil is bad at 2,000 miles, I'll change it. I like quantitative data.
@@mannys9130 it's an interesting data point. However, the general experience of everyone with these engines is that once you go past 5000 miles, no matter the oil, these engines start to wear.
We have a 2009 Corolla in the family with 250K on the odo and it's had an issue for the last four years of it's life. When starting, it takes about 3-4 seconds of cranking, so longer than normal. Took it to the dealer and they checked things out, charged me a bunch of money for nothing, couldn't find or solve the problem. Car runs fantastic otherwise, amazing fuel economy. The car is perfect otherwise. I am loathe to spend another dime trying to sort the long crank issue (it always starts) as the car is worth so little now and not worth spending what could be a ton on diagnostics. We have two Toyotas in the family right now, the 09 Corolla and an 04 Highlander, will own nothing but Toyotas.
It sounds to me like it could be a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Easy to diagnose if you connect a fuel pressure gauge, run the engine (see normal operating fuel pressure) and then turn off engine and watch the pressure gauge for some time. Pressure should remain approx at normal. If pressure drops, then you have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Not sure where it is located..In my 2013 Sienna, it is located together with the fuel pump inside the gas tank.
You're wrong, these plugs are dedicated by NGK to this engine. Different manufacturer, but the parameters are the same as Denso. Quality like the originals They are also iridium sparkplugs.
I found surprising recently when two people commented on the rear plugs in their Toyota trucks had ngks and the fronts were denso. Not sure if legitimate but very coincidental
If I remember right I did put champion to my corolla. It was Sunday and dealer was close. I look into owners manual and it was two types spark Plugs listed. Champion and denso. Check manual
Hello I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S it keeps leaking oil I just had the alternator and water pump changed can someone tell me what’s going on please???
Spark plugs that thread into an aluminum cylinder head always have long sections of threads because aluminum is pretty soft. Iron heads have threads that are stronger and therefore they can get away with less threads to hold the plug in the head with the same tension. Aluminum heads with the same number of threads as iron heads would either strip the threads right out of the hole when you tighten the plug sufficiently to hold it in, or the plug would blow out later because the threads would be strained past elastic tension and combustion pressure would strain them even more until they finally let go. :( Pentroof combustion chambers like this engine uses also need a longer reaching type of plug to get down through the center where there's a good amount of metal and depth as a result of putting the plug right in the middle of the intake and exhaust ports. You could either thread the whole thing (which, with an aluminum head you want to anyway) or you could do something goofy like the Ford 3 valve Triton engines or like the Mercedes Benz OM606 engine where the threaded section ends and then there's a looooooong reaching unthreaded section. BOTH of those engines use that design method and BOTH have terrible problems with their spark or glow plugs getting stuck in the head so badly that they need to be drilled out. 😩 Not good.
2010 corolla le 204,000 miles has a oil leak around the pulley and timing chain tensioner. Change timing chain tensioner but still loosing oil between oil changes. put uv dye and can't see the leak but can see the build up of oil leak and dealership said it was piston ring are bad and need to change. highly doubt that bc I see the build up of the leak. CarCareNut has a common problem of timing chain cover but not sure bc mechanic can't diagnose it and just suggest need new piston ring. which I will not do.
So I’ve heard that it’s the 2.4L that consumes oil due to low tension piston rings and not the 1.8L. Source: car Care Nut. Anyone one know differently?
On the one hand, common problems are a nuisance. On the other hand, common problems are problems mechanics have likely seen before, and so there's less diagnostic time, less head-scratching, and a higher probability the repair will eliminate the root cause and not require a trip back to the shop by a dissatisfied customer.
I have a 2012 Corolla s with 92k miles on it, and I just had to have the alternator and battery replaced on it by the dealership . The total bill was $985.00. In the past I've had to have the timing chain cover resealed and the front strut replaced too.
You should avoid having work done at the dealer. They overcharge and often do mediocre work. Even Toyota builds lemons. It’s pretty rare that any car needs repairs within 100k miles these days.
I have 2009 Corolla LE that my mother bought new and gave it to me about 6 years ago at 85,000 miles. In her time with it, the water pump failed and put considerable coolant into the alternator and so it was replaced also, both under Toyota warranty. I now have 263,000 miles on it and it runs smooth as day one. I have changed oil every 3-4K miles, dropped the tranny pan and cleaned it and new screen at 160K miles (I do mostly highway driving), and have changed trans fluid (WS only from Toyota dealer), twice since then. I have no oil burning (I do add 3 oz of Lucas gas treatment with upper cylinder lubricant every fill up... I buy it by the gallon), and oil level still full at change time. Did have an ignition coil go bad right at 200K miles and even though I have flushed radiator twice since i have had it, the radiator started major leak at abut 245K miles and had to replace it. Had recalls performed on drivers door power window buttons master pod and passenger air bag. Overall, been a truly reliable car. Heck, my mom had Toyota dealer replace brakes all around just before she gave it to me, and they are nearing 200K miles on brakes now, and still not needing replacement. Again, I do mostly highway driving though. My check engine light is on now and the code is bad evap canister. I am of low means, and cannot afford to replace it, but thankfully no annual vehicle emissions inspections where I live, so I am going to leave as is.
Thanks for a very good info filled video here Peter, we appreciate it. Wish I could retain you to do work on care in future, but Indiana is LONG way from CA sadly.
If the water pump fails, most likely the antifreeze was not changed every 50,000 miles. New antifreeze protects both the water pump AND the head gaskets!
I have this exact car, 2009 Corolla LE with 167,000 miles now. I purchased it used when it was 80,000 miles. I have changed the oil using full synthetic 0w-20 every 5,000 miles since I bought it. My Corolla does not consume absolutely any oil every 5,000 miles (I do my own oil change). I had to replace the alternator (once), the evap canister (once) and water pump (twice) since I bought it, but that's it (plus normal maintenance, like brake pads, etc.) Great car, very reliable, very nice mileage (34+ mpg).
Yes sir....I have 2 of them......One Auto one manual.....great and very reliable vehicles....the last of the easy maintenance corollas!
2water pumps in only 87k miles!? Doesn't sound very good to me, if we're being honest
Just bought one with 51,000 miles in mint condition. It ran out of oil in 1000 miles! Now the engine rattles. Took off the valve cover and its nasty inside. Obviously it didnt have proper oil changes! You cant go 10,000 on any Toyota I have learned! My car is using 1qt per 275 miles!!! Stuck piston rings, very poor design!
@@theoriginalmungamanu can't go 10k on any car 😂
@@tonytres7687yes you can, using a high quality oil. See my comments below.
Peter, until I started watching your channel, I did not know how important the "recommended" spark plugs were to a vehicle. Now, I know. Thanks!
Bought a 2013 121K for my daughter. Does not burn oil. Easy to work on. Fun car. Regular oil changes are important to keep them from turning into oil burners. If buying one check the tail pipe for oil residue to make sure they are not burners.
I think you helped me solve my problem! I’ve had a front knocking for a long time on my 2010 Corolla, changed motor mounts, ball joints, struts, and still makes the noise over certain bumps. Never thought to check the wheel bearings! Thanks!! I’m at 110k miles and it never burns any oil (I change w/ full synthetic every 6k miles). Never had a problem with water pump, I’ve kept fresh clean Toyota coolant in the system. Never had any problems with the evap canister but I learned to fill the gas tank until the first click. Overfilling the tank will ruin that canister and fill it with gas, I think that’s why some ppl have problems with it. Love your videos Petr, keep it up! 👍
Yes! Scotty Kilmer also says to stop filling the gas tank at the first click!! Otherwise there will be problems!
I have a 2009 with 167,000 miles. Two alternators, 2 coils, spark plugs, front pads and rotors and 5,000 mile oil changes. Great car.
So you recommend it?
Welcome back my friend
👍👍🖐️
I use my 2012 Corolla LE for a 60 mile roundtrip commute 5 days a week. Very reliable over the past 141K miles. Basic maintenance is all that has been needed and does not burn a drop of oil between oil changes. Only repairs needed have been a new alternator and new starter.
Hello. How did you know that you had to change the starter? Mine is taking like 4 to 5 seconds to start some times, some times it starts immediately. Thanks in advance.
@@vicenteruizflores7885 my car would make a loud, squealing noise upon cold starts.
I have a Toyota Corolla, model 2008, 1,400 cc, 97 hp, 4zz-fe engine. The only problem my car had was the water pump (I'm not talking about normal wear and tear). I maintain my car myself and I can say that it is a very good, safe and reliable car.
I can vouch for that
Yiannis :o, my do it yourself hero :D
I have a 2011 Corolla Levin ZR [Australia] with only 72,000Km [43,500 Miles]. I’ve owned it for 7 years and do all my own maintenance. Apart from fluid changes, the only thing that has gone wrong with the car was a rear wheel bearing that suddenly quit on me - it took me 35 minutes to replace it, as it is a hub assembly [the Australian Corolla has rear disc brakes]. The Corolla Levin ZR is the top spec model, so has an electric sunroof, dual climate control air con, HID low-beam headlights, auto-on wipers & headlights, and the best front bucket sports seats. Barring accidents or some catastrophic failure, I think I’ll keep this car for the next 20 years, as it is just the best car ever, and looks like it was just driven off the dealers yard. Love Toyota… 👍
Yeah, not much road salt in Australia...
@@tomwalma4762 - None at all in Perth, WA. It shows too, as the underside of my car still looks brand new. I’m originally from Scotland so I know what constant wet weather does to cars. 😁
i have 2012 and 2013 Corolla with ZERO PROBLEMS. Never had any problems. Best cars ever own.
I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix 4WD (Corolla Sport Wagon) with 191,000 miles. It is the love child of a Ferrari and a UPS truck. It is an excellent vehicle.
I have a 2011 corolla, been maintained very well. Just made it to 240k miles, original engine and transmission. Change the oil every 5k and trans fluid every 50k.
I have a 2010 Matrix, 1.8, manual tranny. 350,000 km on it, and the only actual repair has been a new transmission put in at about 150,000. I have learned to do the maintenance on it from guys like you ( thank you!) and plan to keep driving it for as long as I can. I do need new CV axles as the boots are torn, but no symptoms yet and I'm waiting until they start. Then I will learn something new again!
Keep the original CV shafts because many aftermarket especially the driver's side say it vibrates since they might not be designed as thick or come with the correct dampeners installed. Best thing is get a boot lot now and repack the grease before the bearings in the joints go out.
That sounds like good advice, thank you. I figured once the boot split it was just a waiting game, but sounds like maybe I can be proactive about it. It will have to survive until spring- way too cold right now. Would you recommend Toyota or would something like Dorman be OK?
I got tired of the oil burning issues of the Corollas, so I traded my last one for a Yaris. 1.5 engine and no oil burning yet at 170k miles. Keeping my fingers crossed.
I'd love to have a 1.5L yaris, but here in the UK a 1.5L is only available if it's a Hybrid. I have a 2015 1.3L 1NZ-FE CVT, it's awesome!!
I disliked the first gen Yaris' but the new ones especially the hatchbacks are really surprising and cute! Not this tiny rehash of the old Echo *shivers* hated driving that little clown car Echo
@@LAactor Loved my 1sr Gen Yaris 2002 1.3L 2NZ-FE 4speed auto,had it for 13yrs, decided to get the 3rd Gen,it's abit bigger. Didn't like the 2nd Gen,didn't attract me.
Thank you, I thoroughly enjoy your videos very precise and informative
Mine is a 2010 Corolla with 160,000 miles and absolutely none of these issues. Transmission slips accelerating at or above 95mph, but that's easily avoidable by not driving 90mph
I have a 2013 Corolla LE, 240,000 miles. Major repairs needed were auto trans rebuilds at 127k, and 213k, head gasket recently at 235k (leaking coolant into cylinders 1 and 2, causing misfires and running hot, oil was OK). Replaced drivers side wheel bearing at about 150k. Everyone including transmission shop techs say that they never see Corollas with transmission issues, I guess mine is the exception. No oil burning ( I do my own oil changes every 4500-5000 miles, I don't trust anyone else to put in the correct oil).
I have put a lot into my 2013 LE. I'm sick of giving money to mechanics who basically rob me. $214 parts and labor for spark plugs but the part was listed as $14 from Mr. Tire. I just bought a new starter, I refuse to pay another mechanic. People talk about EVs but they don't have to replace so many parts. I am not into hemorrhaging money on a car if I can do the work myself.
I own a 2012 Corolla LE with 108,000 miles on it. The only problem I have is in the winter at Syracuse, New York State! ICE forms on the front-wheel drive mechanism from road slush, it causes severe vibration at highway speeds! I tried melting the ice off at car washes to no avail. Now I only drive it when the roads are totally frozen over! That said, I change the oil every 5,000 miles and the engine doesn't burn a drop!
I got a 2006 corolla for my son's first car. 168k needed a windshield, tires, clock spring, and some exhaust work but it's a great car. We've worked on it together since August. He's learning about car maintenance in the process. We changed out the plugs as they were original as well as brake pads and rotors Too.
This looks like it is applicable to the 2003-2008 Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe also. Very helpful information. Thank you for sharing!
Great video!!
Changing front wheel bearings cost just equivalent to ~$20 at the dealership for my FIAT in India.
I can confirm the Evap cannister is expensive. I bought a 2009 Rav4 with the 2GR-FE in October and it cost me $2,600 Canadian Dollars to replace the cannister. Apparently, this was due to the previous owner overfilling the gas tank. Moral of the story: always have a car inspected before buying. The $260 you spend could save you a large bill!
Toyota used defective evap canisters. Overfilling did not cause the failure. Someone ripped you off on the repair big time. All used cars have hidden issues that most mechanics would never find. There is a reason the previous owner dumped the car.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Yeah, you're right, there was a TSB for this issue (I can't remember the number or I'd post).
A CEL came on after three days of driving. I called the previous owner, he confirmed that the issue existed and had the codes cleared before the sale.
Getting ripped off sucks. Thankfully, the car works well now! 👌
@@mzlanka007 The V6 RAV4 is a fun car. It should last a long time.
@@user-tb7rn1il3qI love it! Best car I've owned so far!
Great video, as usual!
Just have a question for you, Sir. I bought a 2010 Corolla 1.8 with 135K miles a few months ago and the only mechanical issue I'm having is a delay in gear shifting when going up from 1st to 2nd gear only. All others gears shift perfectly going up and down. It's just from 1st to 2nd gears. Recently changed the ATF but with no success. Do you have any ideas, as what can be the problem? Thank you!
Also chasing this issues with an slight jerk in my first gear at low to mid rpm only that gear
Never had major issue with transmission as i drain and fill 2 quarts of that oil every 30k mile. Motor oil at 5k mile. Now my car has 237k miles. Runs like when a bought it 93k mile. did water pump drive belt, front suspension parts like control arm, sway bar link, ball joint, spark plugs , struts, all one time. now just replaced front left side wheel bearing. Do most of maintenance myself. Very reliable still go on long drive for 12 hrs. to 14 hrs. Only fuel gauge has stopped working, only work when car is cold.
Just want to point out, the NGK (ILKAR7B11 aka 4912) spark plugs you mention are in fact iridium and good for Corolla. I know the Denso ones are OEM, but I doubt using the NGK ones would cause problems. Certainly haven't had any issues myself. Probably just best to replace all spark plugs, and not the one that's misfiring.
Yeah, I don’t agree with him on the spark plugs. Those NGKs are as good as Denso OEM
Some Toyota factory come with NGK lridium spark plugs,he is wrong. Most time NGK plug cost even higher than Denso
I have a 1mz-fe that calls for dual electrode platinum plugs. I've alternated between Denso and NGK with no issues. NGK also makes an iridium alternative but Toyota adviced me to stick with the platinum.
I just used Denso or NGK single. The double is a farce.
@@zaffo757 the engineers designed the engine for the split electrode platinum plug for a reason, but yeah the engine will run on singles. That engine was designed before iridiums were invented.
@@rkgsd the physics of spark and ignition Aren't that complicated.
@@zaffo757 you don't believe in the more complete combustion and quenching in the spark pattern?
@@LAactor sure...just like torque rise. It's not relevant with iridium plugs. Snake oil.
Thank You Very much for your time to take the Video Peter.
Please post more videos on this vehicle...... Electric Steering??? holy smokes..
All very best From Canada..
My daughter has a 2014 Matrix, Canadian model. She loves it. Very practical, economical and well built. She DOES wish it had a bit more horsepower though, since she drives it over mountain passes. Great car, though.
Get the v6 next time , you may have to get a camry tho ,she will love it guaranteed
Personally, when I recommend Corollas, I recommend the 03-08 generation, if they're lucky enough to find one that was not abused. Mine is an '07, and it doesn't use any measurable amount of oil in a 5k interval. That and it has 263+k miles on it currently.
I wholeheartedly agree. I've had two of that generation(9th gen). My first one was a 06 CE that I took from 48,000 miles to 248000 miles before it was totaled. I replaced it with my current car an 07 S model. When I got it five years ago and had 125,000 miles on it. It now currently has 270,000. I still use it on road trips and it is my daily. This car will live forever. Parts are stupid cheap and they're stupid easy to change. And in this used-car Market it makes sense to just spend the money to fix them.
@@randalhill6283 not sure if you're aware, but all Corollas of this generation have a flaw with the odometer. They stop working at 299,999 miles and the car then drops in value quite a bit because now the car is considered to be a "true miles unknown" vehicle.
The 03-08 model is a lovely car but has that pesky high idle when cold. Don't know why they were designed like that. Mechanics say 'that's just the way the japanese do it'.
@@rayemanuel7460 I don't think so. That generation has a lcd odo. I've personally serviced one with 316k on the clock.
@@jamessawyer479 that is how they do it. At least with Toyo/Lex as all my vehicles from mid 90's to 00's to late 00's all have high idle to get them to operating temps. Not exclusive to Toyota. Chevys that #VGG works on also do the same thing. Everything works more efficiently at operating temps.
Our 2013 Corolla sits at about 190k, had some weird issues a year ago with bad missfires, turned out 2 spark plugs loosened up and broke the tips, super odd to us as we did them and they lasted almost 2 years with no issues and our other vehicles have no issues (bad torque wrench maybe?). But we are starting to hit that oil burning period where at the change time it is a quart low. The trans isnt going out but it doesn't like the lower shifts as much has the higher gears (it's a highway car). Oher than brakes, rears too, battery, tires, oil, nothing has gone bad. Did front wheel bearings at about 120k, and lower control arms at 180k. Rear brakes need to be adjusted manually pretty often
Where did you buy your replacement spark plugs?
My toyota ch-r has a 3zr-fae engine which is the same as this engine just a larger displacement and i change my oil every 3k miles. Hopefully that way i can avoid any oil related issues.
Phenomenal video, thank you for sharing your expertise and helping make these problems clear to identify. Thank you sir!
Do the 2010 and 2013 Toyota Corolla model engines use the same spark plugs?
Well, I have a 2014 Toyota Corolla, engine is 2ZR-FE. It has 240,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil. Never changed alternator, never changed water pump, no problem with the transmission. I change oil every 5000 miles (0w20 full synthetic, and drain the automatic transmission (not a CVT) and add fresh every 20,000 miles. No misfires either. And NGK Iridium plugs are fine in this engine. Use them all the time, no issues, get 35 MPG. No problems at all with this car.
Great channel My 2007 auris has 1zrfe 1.6 engine it doesn’t seem to have oil problems 150000 miles yet hopefully the yearly oil change Helps it’s still has original denso iridium plugs in it .
Those generation Toyota are well worth having and maintaining, and very easy to maintain if you're handy with the spanners 👌
Does oil consumption affect the longevity operation of the catalytic converter ?
Yes, but it has to be significant consumption like a quart every fuel fill.
Sure does!
Yes. Oil burning produces excess carbon fouling which clogs up the active catalyzing sites, AND it plates the sites with ZDDP or molybdenum disulfide or titanium dioxide depending on the brand and type of oil used which are all antiwear sacrificial compounds. The plated-over and fouling clogged sites can no longer come into contact with NOx and hydrocarbon molecules to crack them like intended. That ends up causing a P0420 and the catalytic converter is dead at that point. :( Just have it replaced with a universal aftermarket catalytic converter at an exhaust/muffler shop. Keep in mind though, that those aftermarket cats have less catalyzing sites/honeycomb matrix material and that means they have less of a surplus catalyzing capacity from the start. The original cat may have been able to lose 30% of its honeycomb matrix surface area and active sites to this carbon and AW additive poisoning before it becomes inadequate and "dead," but an aftermarket cat may only be able to lose 10% before it becomes inadequate and "dead" and therefore needs replacing way sooner than a new OE cat would. Considering the massive difference in price, it's still worth it to go aftermarket and replace it more often. Consider though, that Mazda RX8 Renesis engines INTENTIONALLY burn engine oil by factory design using oil injectors, and their cats last a pretty long time. 🤷🏻♂️ Even when people delete that unreliable oil injection system and use 2 stroke weed whacker premix oil in the gasoline, the cat is fine for a pretty long time. 🤷🏻♂️ Using conventional engine oil is best for an engine that burns an insane amount of oil. Mazda required conventional oil only because of that oil burning by design. Synthetic oils are engineered NOT to burn or vaporize so that natural piston engine consumption is reduced. That leads to more carbon fouling when it is constantly injected as in the RX8 rotary Renesis engine. All piston engines burn a tiny bit of oil because there is a small film of oil left on the cylinder walls which is vaporized and burned and exhausted during the power stroke. The synthetic oils are made to resist that and they do a good job. If your piston engine is ducking down a quart every 500 miles, conventional oil is better because it'll burn more cleanly when it inevitably ends up being vaporized and burned in the combustion chambers.
I have a miss fire on cylinder 4. spark plugs and a coil did not fix it. From everything i see online it seems like the piston rings are going or the head gasket is blown.. I don't think its the head gasket though. I thought maybe it could be the knock sensor because i only get pinging noise when i accelerate in gear but wouldn't there be more codes if that was the case?. im stumped..ive been to 2 mechanics and they couldn't figure it out.
This is why I replace my own spark plugs with the best ones.
A useful vid, thanks! Please could you show the throttle body cleaning on the corolla as it is a job i need to do.
I did it to my 2012 2ZR-FE Corolla. Basically, the key things you need to know are:
Get a new gasket from the dealer or online. The old one may be "reusable" but leaks after the TB are under high vacuum and they will suck in unmetered air. So I personally replace all intake gaskets after the TB on principle. They are not expensive.
Before you start the process, disconnect the black negative battery cable from the battery and then unplug the electrical connector from the throttle body. You do NOT want to go near the TB while it's plugged in, both because the motor can really hurt your finger and because touching the butterfly plate while it's plugged in can cause damage or issues with it as a result. Always unplug it first.
You will need to remove 2 coolant lines. I like to get a pair of needle nose vice grips, put a piece of soft and squishy rubber hose on each jaw, and use them to clamp off the coolant hose so they don't leak. You will lose a little bit that drains out of the TB itself. No biggie. I always suggest putting spring type clamps back into the molded indentation exactly as they say as they have created it over time being in place. Less likely to leak that way.
Once you get the TB removed from the intake manifold, you can VERY SLOWLY AND GENTLY push the throttle plate open with your fingers and hold it open or block it open with a wad of paper towels so that you can clean its edge and the step of the TB that sits beneath the edge. ONLY use throttle body cleaner spray. It is not expensive, and it's special. Get it at any AutoZone/Orielly's/NAPA etc. Only use a soft brush and rags or toilet paper to clean it. I use an old retired extra soft toothbrush that I don't need anymore. A soft nylon M16 cleaning kit brush works well too if you're a gun guy. No copper, brass, bronze, or steel brushes here at all. Only a soft plastic or even horse hair type brush like a soldering paste acid brush could work. For the caked on carbon though, a toothbrush works best.
Pay attention to any holes in the bore if the throttle body. Make sure they are carefully clean and freely open. I can't remember if there are any in our Corolla TBs. I don't think so, but not sure. Clean the edge of the butterfly plate well. That edge and the part of the bore that it is directly next to while closed at idle is what determines how well the engine runs at and regulates idle speeds the computer holds the TB butterfly open ever so slightly and any crude on those surfaces will choke off that small gap and make it so the computer has to open it further. A clean, smooth surface is best.
Once everything is nice and clean and spiffy, reinstall everything and be sure to use common sense or a torque wrench to reinstall the bolts and nuts holding the TB into the plastic (!!!) intake manifold. The soft rubber style gasket won't be happy if you crush the shit out of it. Common sense here, use a 1/4 inch socket wrench and be mindful.
Reconnect the battery, turn the key on, and start it up. It will need to relearn the throttle body behavior and positions again. I suggest this procedure found in other Toyota FSMs: Start the engine and let it idle until it is full warned up at operating temperature. Then drive it steadily at a speed equal to or slightly faster than 31mph for 3-5 minutes. Then park it and let it idle for 2 minutes. Drive again at 31mph or slightly faster for another 3-5 minutes. Idle again for 2 minutes. Drive one last time at 31mph or a tiny bit faster for 3-5 minutes and then idle again for 2 minutes. So, warn it up and then do 3 periods of 31mph driving for 3-5 minutes each separated by 3 idling periods of 2 minutes each. After the last 2 minute idling period, it'll be relearned and back to normal. 👍
Let it cool down and then top off the coolant if necessary after it's fully cooled. Since that air bubble will have burped out after that and the cap will have sucked in replacement coolant, the reservoir may be a bit low. You're done at that point. I suggest cleaning the mass air flow sensor at the same time. ONLY use mass air flow sensor cleaner, and allow the spray of the can do all the work. Don't touch the sensor element at all, and don't try to scrub or rub it. Blast it off, and let it dry and then put it back in. 👍
@@mannys9130 Cheers dude! I could not have asked for a better explanation...many thanks
@@jamessawyer479 You are totally welcome. :) TB cleaning is a touchy subject because of how many cars have difficulty relearning their position. Some do it automatically like our cars, others need a specific peddle procedure, and others even need a scan tool to do it! 😳 Touching it while plugged in cases damage and some people make that mistake. It's so much simpler to do a cable TB, but fly by wire is what we got so no use complaining. 😁 Good luck!
@@mannys9130 why don't you do the idle air control sensor as well if you have come so far?
2011 Corolla S. MAF is a sensitive one. Recommend OEM. It will not take remanufactured over priced garbage parts. I have also gone and replaced the stupid canister twice now. Their is a lot of junk parts comming from CHINA. Thanks for making something that only lasts two months then I got to waste my time to fix and replace again and again. Now, I go with OEM from dealer when I needs parts. BS.
Petr, It looks like this one has been baking in he California sun since 2009.
It might have helped if it was waxed twice a year, but red cars historically tend to fade eventually.
Many owners run 10 k miles interval but not eligible because short trips, cold stars, not enough highway cruise.
thank you for your work on this video.
Have a 2011 one myself. It been very reliable. Mine doesn't consume oil. 5k changes all it's life with synthetic.
My complaint is steering. The steering seems have excessive play. Toyota shop and dealer both say nothing wrong.
Thanks 😊 for sharing this video. Interesting and informative.
Maybe it has carbon built up around the piston rings as the cause of oil consumption . And if so , people have used various oil flushes to remove it .
Hi Peter , I have a auris hybrid touring sports 2015 , I have done most of the work on it , but the only thing that I am not sure about doing, is back brake rotors and pads , as it has the automatic parking brake , do you have to have a scan tool for it ,
Good video stay safe and healthy 👍
Great video
Peter, I have an '09 Corolla, 1.8L with 92K miles. I replaced the Intake VVT gear due to rattle and changed out the timing chain tensioner. I used both Toyota OEM parts with latest part numbers. However, on cold starts, mainly in winter and/or setting a day or two, I still have the cold start rattle. Why? Should I have also replaced the exhaust VVT gear?
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting report.
Thanks, Peter. I have 2013 Corolla LE 1.8L bought @ 40Kmi proper maintenance, never overload or overheated, and @ 105Kmi failed head gasket (misfired 2 & 4 cylinders, bunch of DTC, check engine light ON e.t.c.) Before I had 3 Corollas ‘91, ‘96 & ‘2005 and never happened so serious trouble. All they run 200Kmi and more until sold. Still I in puzzle about cause of failed HG on my 2zr-fe. Could it be manufacturer’s defect or something else? Unimportant problems are weak stabilizer’s links and leakage of timing chain cover seal. Overall it is good reliable vehicle as most Toyotas.
I had a tercel. Needing oil every 2k miles would have been a major improvement.
2013 Corolla S where is fuel pump fuse/relay located??
2009 Corolla or 2005 Civic for saving gas. Driving in the city in the rain in the Pacific Northwest?
Hi Petr. I have an oil residue on the passenger side of the engine. I can’t tell if it’s leaking from the sensor or it’s coming off the timing chain tensioner. It’s a 2011 corolla with nearly 300000km. Any advice?
It's not tensioner it's timing chain cover needs to be reseal.
@@wafel19781 I understand. Is that a costly repair? Thanks
@@tolgadag3637
Yes. If it's not dripping on your driver don't fix it keep on driving
I have had my 2012 Toyota Corolla for 12 years and the only major repairs I have had is to replace the engine which only had 22,000 miles on along with minor repairs like the fuel pump, water pump, the ignition coil. I also just replaced the catalytic converter on it. The problem I started to have is when I drove it for some odd reason it cut off and started to jerk when I tried to give gas and this has happened maybe four times. What could the problem?? Please help me
I used Toyota corolla 2009 close to a year but I only change the engine oil at 5000milage but I didn't change the plugs hope have not done any damage?
I also have a 2009 Corolla with 89k miles. I received the full service records with vehicle and confirmed trans oil was never replaced. I heard on another channel that changing the trans oil for the first time late in the vehicles life can cause gear damage. Do you recommend changing the trans oil at this age and mileage or leave it?
Great. Can you make one of these videos on the 09 RAV4 generation. I have a little shake when I come to a stop. I think it’s the torque converter
He can only make videos of the vehicles that come into the bay. But if there are many of you RAV owners out there, keep asking in the comments and just maybe he will have to find a RAV project car from marketplace or copart to bring onto the channel. But remember, that platform is a combination of the Camry and Corolla vehicles along with others in the MC body platform by Toyota. Search results can yield similar solutions if you look for Camry by reasoning that the same engine goes in both and that car is a popular repair topic since so many have it.
My 2 cents... I have 2010 corolla S with 265000.You mentioned that it's leaking from chain tensioner this generation has gasket improved (crash gasket) and according to my reaserch not the source of leak. Unfortunately it's the seal (silicone) on timing chain cover right wher block and top of the engine meets. Suction reseal timing chain cover. Expensive repair at dealer.
Hello Peter, wanted to bring a 2011 Corolla for inspections - may I know your shop address? Thanks.
I got a 2010 corolla with a front timing cover leak looking to see if it's worth fixing it miles is 127.00 and struts are bad. It's cost. About. 2500 to fix
Sup bro. I gotta 2003 celica gts with some oil leak presumably from the Timing chain gasket. Any sugguestion
I've never seen any of your video inspecting condensors. Also when should condensor be replaced and how should be maintained? My last two rows are kinda gone but condensor is not leaking. What would you recommend?
Like AC condenser? Does your AC system still blow cold? You should maintain it by hosing off the front of bugs and debris and keeping it clean and clear. I don't understand how you mean the last two rows are gone without it leaking refrigerant.
@@LAactor Thank you for your feedback. Yes, AC condenser It blows cold and so far it works fine. 2005 Totota Previa/Estima with 280k km. What I mean quite a few bottom fins are missing. Will send you a few pictures.
@@lbproductions3613 you don't have to. It's not a system critical component. I wouldn't touch it. Say you move your radiator to get at it and that breaks or the threads to something gets pulled out. Or the clips for your bumper cover or absorbing material rust and break off. I doubt even anything can burst and blow a shard into the radiator. If it works leave it and just keep an eye on it. If anything, it's a good false flag if you take it to a mechanic and they say it's an immediate required replacement or you could die. Then you know that mechanic is shady and you can save yourself. You don't really maintain or replace it. As long as the system stays cold and isn't leaking, the oil and refrigerant inside stays inside. Usually no need to top off the PAG oil. And if it's still R12 and not R134a, that old stuff is scarce and runs a pretty penny.
@@LAactorAgain, thank you for your feedback. It's very much appreciated. I got a sort of warning from my mechanic but the replacement is so expensive and not sure if the car is worth that investment. On the other hand it's not leaking and works fine. I did purchas condenser foam and was planning to take off the bumper and spray it and clean it with water. Now I will think twice .
I have Toyota Corolla s sport 2013 model , the TRAC OFF AND CHECK LIGHT COME ON THE DASHBOARD ALWAYS, WHEN I USE MACHINE TO CLEAR IT COME BACK IN THREE DAY TIME SO PLEASE WHAT IS THE PROBLEM.....
Peter , I have a 2012 corolla s with almost 95k miles on it and with a 2zr-fe engine. The water pump just started making a noise the other day. Have you ever seen where the water pumps don't leak, but make a noise? lmk. Thank you. Love your channel.
That happned to mine 2013 about 95000 miles. Made this ugly loud sound. I got scared it was something serous. No just the water pump. Got it changed out.
Ignition now again turns it self off overnight.When starting dashboard light don’t light up
It appears that the gasket on the oil filler cap has failed causing oil to be vented out of the valve cover. Looks like that Corolla has been through a war.
Either that or they're messy fillers
I’ve had a variant of that engine for several years 2ZR-FAE. It was a great engine, a little underpowered when driving in the Alps. Maybe it was the thinner air.
This engine looks dirty. I’d engine clean it (engine flush) to sort of make sure the piston rings are moving freely. I’d make sure it has the correct weight of oil. In my old Toyota Verso (2ZR-FAE) it was 0w-20.
Hi, I recently buy Corolla E15 from 2008 with gasoline 1.6 (exactly Toyota Corolla 1.6 16V Dual VVT-i 124KM 1ZR-FE) and it have 5W30 oil, when I check it, it's looking really good and fresh and not smell much (some oil from other gasoline cars often smell gasoline), previous user change oil regularly with this type of engine oil - 5W30. Should I stay with that oil or change it for 0W20?? Some folks say I should cause they use it and it's better for that engine. My confusion is big cause on official website there is information that engine can use 5W30 or 0W20, and both are good for that engine. Pretty please correct me if I'm wrong, there is nothing bad if I gonna use 5W30 like previous owner and I don't need to change it to 0W20 cause it's good and nothing wrong is gonna happen right?
Sorry for my English it's not my main language.
Thanks for any help
Greetings
I have a 2011 went out today and it would not start. When I went to crank it over I turned the key and car keeps trying to turn over until I turned the key off.
Where is your shop in California ? I want to fix my car tks
It is cheaper to change the engine oil every 5,000 miles and the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles rather than changing the engine or transmission due to lack of maintenance!
Matrix also a very good and very similar vehicle!
Matrix is a good vehicle but the drivers position and seat are dam uncomfortable!
So is the 09-10 Pontiac Vibe.
@@robertomulero514 Pontiac vibe is basically a Toyota matrix but different badge.
Matrix is basically a Corolla hatchback
@@LAactor And very uncomfortable to drive...
The motor mounts on my Toyota 2016 are weak, and the car vibrates sometimes when idle…is it urgent or can it last a couple more months so I can trade it in? Thank you!
It will last. If Toyota originals. It's not that old and I doubt they will go after that time. It could be a dirty IAC or some other problem causing a more unbalanced engine shake but you'll be fine. You can change the dogbone for $20 from rockauto if it has that. Every shop always tries to charge $100 and make easy money from it but they all will fail after a few years due to inferior aftermarket parts
i own a 2010 corolla, great car so far, the only problem i have is when i hit the brakes and the car stop it starts a little vibration, i still dont know what the problems is.
Hi Peter, does the 2003 Corollas have oil consumption issues? Which generation or year Corolla is best?
Avoid the 8th Gen Corolla like the plague (98-02). It was probably one of the worst Toyotas ever made. The 03 was decent, however some of the Corollas with the 1.8 loved to burn copious amounts of oil after 100k miles if they were not meticulously maintained. Unfortunately this is something that will not be apparent on a test drive. You need to check the car with a high level scan tool, check the spark plugs, and check the compression on all 4 cylinders. The best Corollas are the 2020 and up 2.0 liter.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q thank you
@@royportalise5269 No problem, also avoid the Corolla with the 2.4 liter engine. If you see one, walk away. These cars can last a long time if maintained well.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q what specifically are the issues with the 2.4?
Most common failure I've seen with this generation of Corolla is a failure of the Charcoal Canister due to moisture and dust intrusion, particularly if it has been driven on primarily unpaved roads.
You can avoid this problem by not overfilling the gas tank. Stop when the pump handle clicks off!
rust too
@@BillyBob-fd5ht Amazingly, all the Fords I owned rusted horribly here in Central New York State, but no rust so far on the 10-year-old Toyota Corolla!
@@bryancarlson3673 my mistake, thought i was on his latest video on the toyota echo.Just North of you in Canada. Corolla last forever.I drive a 2012 prius V no rust,
I have Toyota corolla fielder model 2009 4wd. I have just discovered that it leaks oil from the top engine
My dad has a Prius with 110,000 and it burns no oil at 5k… The oil was changed every 5,000. I know this for a fact because I did every oil change…
Best practice. For $30 a DIY can do a full synthetic change and Denso filter. I can't imagine people trying to save money my going 7500
@@zaffo757 I had my 2012 Corolla 2ZR-FE's oil analyzed by Blackstone in 02/2020 at 5,100 miles. The same engine in this video. It was Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic GTL Technology 0W-20 oil and was used with a Toyota TRD synthetic media filter. Driven 100% city miles, with lots of cold starts and short tripping, in an EXTREMELY hot and very dusty desert environment. Beyond a doubt severe service conditions. The oil sample was perfect. Blackstone attached the following comments with the analysis report:
"Your Toyota just aced this first round of testing, so it should be good for
some time. Universal averages show typical wear for a 2ZR-FE engine that's put about 7,700 miles on the
oil, and compared to those, your metals are even lower than we'd usually expect for a shorter interval of
5,100 miles. No fuel, water, or coolant was detected, and the viscosity is in spec for 0W/20. A 3.2 TBN
reading means the oil still had plenty of active additive left in reserve since 1.0 is the minimum. A longer run
should be perfectly fine, so try 7,000 miles."
No fuel dilution, so piston ring and cylinder wall seal was great. No water, so PCV system works great. That was despite the frequent short tripping. TBN was still more than adequate. Viscosity was still great. Wear metals being low are the key indicators of protection. The wear metals indicate how much engine is actually getting chewed up from use. My readings were even lower than normal. This shows 2 things: First, Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum GTL are AMAZING oils. They protect the metal very well. Second, 5,000 miles is a waste of oil. I wasted that oil when I drained it at 5,100 miles and sent in that sample. They suggest 7,000 instead. Toyota's standard service interval is 7,500 miles for this engine, which would be operating the car in ideal conditions. Like I said, the place I drive is very severe service. I will be retesting at 7,000 miles as suggested, and I betcha it's actually STILL good at that point too. If the laboratory analysis says it is still usable, it's still usable. 🤷🏻♂️ Can't argue with cold hard mathematics. CAN you change the oil early? Yeah. You'd be wasting money though. Why not change it at 1,000 miles just to be safe? Instead, why not test it in a lab and determine where the point of diminishing returns actually is? The point where the oil is just starting to lose its ability to protect the engine and it's worth it to change it out. 🤷🏻♂️ If it can still protect the engine well at 20,000 miles, I see no reason to drain it and replace it. Good is good, plain and simple. If oil is bad at 2,000 miles, I'll change it. I like quantitative data.
@@mannys9130 it's an interesting data point. However, the general experience of everyone with these engines is that once you go past 5000 miles, no matter the oil, these engines start to wear.
We have a 2009 Corolla in the family with 250K on the odo and it's had an issue for the last four years of it's life. When starting, it takes about 3-4 seconds of cranking, so longer than normal. Took it to the dealer and they checked things out, charged me a bunch of money for nothing, couldn't find or solve the problem. Car runs fantastic otherwise, amazing fuel economy. The car is perfect otherwise. I am loathe to spend another dime trying to sort the long crank issue (it always starts) as the car is worth so little now and not worth spending what could be a ton on diagnostics. We have two Toyotas in the family right now, the 09 Corolla and an 04 Highlander, will own nothing but Toyotas.
Check camshaft gear. Might be clogged
It sounds to me like it could be a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Easy to diagnose if you connect a fuel pressure gauge, run the engine (see normal operating fuel pressure) and then turn off engine and watch the pressure gauge for some time. Pressure should remain approx at normal. If pressure drops, then you have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Not sure where it is located..In my 2013 Sienna, it is located together with the fuel pump inside the gas tank.
But in the long run does that much oil burning poison the catalyst material in the catalytic converter? 🤔
I have a 2011 corolla LE. 158K miles now. I have replaced the left cv axle and timing chain tensioner. Otherwise just routine maintenance. Great car.
You're wrong, these plugs are dedicated by NGK to this engine. Different manufacturer, but the parameters are the same as Denso. Quality like the originals They are also iridium sparkplugs.
I found surprising recently when two people commented on the rear plugs in their Toyota trucks had ngks and the fronts were denso. Not sure if legitimate but very coincidental
I recently watched CarCare Nut. Denson, original, or NGK.
Sorry, Denso.
If I remember right I did put champion to my corolla. It was Sunday and dealer was close. I look into owners manual and it was two types spark Plugs listed. Champion and denso. Check manual
They used ngk non-irridium instead of ngk irridium, not the fact that he used ngk instead of denso
Hello I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S it keeps leaking oil I just had the alternator and water pump changed can someone tell me what’s going on please???
I have 2013 Corolla S passenger side of the engine I have oil leak from somewhere
Wow, those are some long spark plug threads!
Spark plugs that thread into an aluminum cylinder head always have long sections of threads because aluminum is pretty soft. Iron heads have threads that are stronger and therefore they can get away with less threads to hold the plug in the head with the same tension. Aluminum heads with the same number of threads as iron heads would either strip the threads right out of the hole when you tighten the plug sufficiently to hold it in, or the plug would blow out later because the threads would be strained past elastic tension and combustion pressure would strain them even more until they finally let go. :( Pentroof combustion chambers like this engine uses also need a longer reaching type of plug to get down through the center where there's a good amount of metal and depth as a result of putting the plug right in the middle of the intake and exhaust ports. You could either thread the whole thing (which, with an aluminum head you want to anyway) or you could do something goofy like the Ford 3 valve Triton engines or like the Mercedes Benz OM606 engine where the threaded section ends and then there's a looooooong reaching unthreaded section. BOTH of those engines use that design method and BOTH have terrible problems with their spark or glow plugs getting stuck in the head so badly that they need to be drilled out. 😩 Not good.
2010 corolla le 204,000 miles has a oil leak around the pulley and timing chain tensioner. Change timing chain tensioner but still loosing oil between oil changes. put uv dye and can't see the leak but can see the build up of oil leak and dealership said it was piston ring are bad and need to change. highly doubt that bc I see the build up of the leak. CarCareNut has a common problem of timing chain cover but not sure bc mechanic can't diagnose it and just suggest need new piston ring. which I will not do.
I like your accents
My 2011 S has 286,000 miles.and I change the oil.every 10,000 miles. I add no oil between changes
So I’ve heard that it’s the 2.4L that consumes oil due to low tension piston rings and not the 1.8L. Source: car Care Nut. Anyone one know differently?
That poor paper clip is holding 1/4 of that car together
❤❤❤
Certain corolla engine do burn oil in made sure when I bought mine
On the one hand, common problems are a nuisance. On the other hand, common problems are problems mechanics have likely seen before, and so there's less diagnostic time, less head-scratching, and a higher probability the repair will eliminate the root cause and not require a trip back to the shop by a dissatisfied customer.
I have a 2012 Corolla s with 92k miles on it, and I just had to have the alternator and battery replaced on it by the dealership . The total bill was $985.00.
In the past I've had to have the timing chain cover resealed and the front strut replaced too.
WOOF.
You should avoid having work done at the dealer. They overcharge and often do mediocre work. Even Toyota builds lemons. It’s pretty rare that any car needs repairs within 100k miles these days.
Alternator and battery are some of the easiest repairs. Probably cost about $300 done at home in an hour or so..
a useful note: put the video spee on 2x