@@stendecstretcher4983 I'm close with a 1999 Corolla that starts every single time. Valve cover gasket, struts, clean MAFS and the other cheap sensor replaced. New fuel injectors and Coils and plugs.... all easy and fairly cheap. 283K miles nearly trouble free; auto transmission.
If you can find a guy like Mr. Toyota maintenance and you can’t do it yourself use him and stay away from a dealer most pay flat rate mechanics so they hurried through your three hour job in an hour and get paid the difference!
Toyota Corolla is the strongest standard car I have ever come across. I lived in Bangkok and have seen Toyota Corollas reach 1 million kms ( 620,000 miles) on the same engine and gearbox. 2006 was probably the time of the most simple and reliable ones.
This reminds me of my 04 RAV4. I took it to the dealership for each service interval - during which they are supposed to do a full inspection and fill out the paperwork each time. (because I do not have time so I pay them to do it). But later when problems happen I am told a problem has been going on for a long time and now additional damage occurred. Then I realize those inspections mean nothing if they do not actually check like Peter does! You rock Peter.
I just bought an ‘05 Corolla w 50k original miles to start off the 2024 year. This is the car I should have bought 10-15 years ago, but I've already been through one Ford, and a Hyundai. I hope this old thing outlasts them both
My 2005 toyota corolla with 230,000 kms (143,000 miles) is still running strong. Same engine, gearbox, starter motor. Only basic maintenance like brakes, change oil, tire change, battery, drive belt, filters.
The car looks identical to the 2005 Corolla LE that I bought two weeks ago! I couldn’t be happier to see this video, although I really like the Tacoma maintenance too for our 2011 Tacoma. I’m just about to check out the Tundra’s broken leafspring video as well. There’s so much to learn! Thank you for everything.
@@konkoly5183 yours is just a baby. Mine just cracked 253,000 miles. Its an 07. Just keep changing the fluids and replacing Parts as they break and it will just run and run and run. I still drive mine too and from Indiana on a regular basis. I'll get at least 340 miles out of tank of gas
@@randalhill6283 I'm glad to hear yours is still chugging along though! Mine has been idling rough for a while. Took it in a few times, but the mechanic said he couldn't tell, so I've just sort of let it go for now. Can't really afford to fix anything anyways.
The most reliable car EVER sold. Proper maintenance and they run forever. Thanks for the video. Do you have any videos showing how to change these fluids on this generation Corolla? Cheers
My First car was a 1971 Toyota Corolla. My Dad gave me this car, which he purchased new in 1971. He gave it to me in May 1975 with 180,000 miles on it. Shortly after he gave me the car the Speedo Cable broke and I never repaired it. I sold the car in 1977 and I know it had over 200,000 miles on it. Here is why I feel these cars are a great value. My Dad bought this car new in 1971 for $1200.00 Cash. I sold it 6 years later, for $200.00 with over 200,000 miles and it still ran, just used a little oil. So, this car was driven over 200,000 miles for a cost of $1000.00. Heck, a replacement water pump job and Timing Belt cost more than this. I love Toyota's!!!! The best car and truck brand for over 50 years!!! Today, I drive a 2019 Toyota Tacoma SR 4X4 2.7 liter Engine with 6 foot Bed. I love this truck. Personally, I will drive only Toyota Brand Vehicles. This is why I love Peter's Channel! Great advice and information from a super honest and Master Technician: DR. Peter!!!!!
Just bought a brand new Toyota yesterday. Impossible to find a used decent one so it is what it is. Still got my 2004 4runner and I baby her...90k miles! Timmy C Arizona
The next 4runner I'm buying will be new, the old ones are too damn expensive! I just hope the 6th gens won't start at $50K. Around 20-22 years ago you could get a Limited for $30K out the door.
A bit late to the party here, but we bought a 2006 Corolla (estate, or station wagon for our American friends) last year Paid just under £2000 for her, she had a fairly comprehensive service history, but still got her checked out at our local Toyota dealer. A full inspection and service, and all they found she needed was new tyres, rear brake discs and pads, and rear suspension bushes. Since then, a small coolant leak and a small fuel leak occurred, both sorted quickly by the same dealer. We now have a fully sorted car, that runs like a car many years younger than she actually is. Probably the best "cheap" car we have ever owned and one that will last us for many years to come
I bought a 2017 corolla brand new 1 mile on it. It today has 94300 on it. Ive replaced the battery once, 1 set of tires and oil changes every 5000 miles and it runs brand new still. I am gonna replace the plugs and the serpintene belt here soon. Great car i will buy another no doubt.
253.000 miles 2003 Corolla owner here. Issues with Idle control valve, CAT converter, Wheel hubs, Ignition coils, water pump, Oil leakage from Timing belt tensioner, Engine mounts, rear power window not working. Pretty much this car is SUPER reliable.
My first car was a Corolla & honestly that was the best car I had 😭 I was gonna get a Nissan Altima but I’m going to go to back to a Toyota. I just sold my 2005 Nissan Sentra
@@joshuaboursier7314 You know im not entirely sure. I feel like i get more than that, high 300s for sure my car doesnt have the average mile rating on my dash. I just drive mine for commuting to work 4 days a week and maybe one errand day of driving. And a full tank lasts me almost 2 weeks. This is in FL, USA
@@EODtrooper I’m going to guess you have the 5 speed manual? I keep reading that they get better mileage compared to the 5 speed auto which is what I have.
@@joshuaboursier7314 Josh i do not have the manual. Regular auto, i think 4 speed? I checked this past week but i do not have any estimated mileage feature. Next gas fill up im going to reset the trip meter and see how much i get off a tank.
On my 4th 9th gen, this latest one being a CE. And yes I can confirm lol, every single one has had the same issues more or less. At least they’re predictable
Corolla S, 2004, 120k miles, changed: transmission oil, coolant, serpentine belt, spark plugs. Planning to replace a PCV valve soon. Front shock boots are torn apart as well just like in this video.
I bought this same car about a year ago and one thing started to go after another, but I’ve been really enjoying fixing it myself. Nothing major of coarse but I’m 800$ of parts into so far and about to do valve cover gasket as I do have oil I’m my spark plugs not much
Hi, I have a 2003 Corolla LE with 107,500ml. I just changed both front struts with KYB strut plus units. I also replaced the timing chain tensioner. Thank you for the content.
The fact is this Corolla still has a long life to go. As an owner and to neglect your vehicle like this Toyota has been, is someone that does NOT DESERVE AN AUTOMOBILE!!!! Let's hope the new owner will be wiser and get the long life out of this Corolla with respectful care. Great job Peter🌟
I enjoyed this. I have a 2004 corolla. I'll need to have a look to see any coolant residue has appeared. I also have split front shock boots but apparently it's not cause for replacement until the shock fails.
I have the same car with 150k miles. Original strut and shocks. Amazing reliability! I noticed the front strut mount is flexible and making noise when turning. Power steering pump is whining.
You could just replace Strut mounts if shocks are not leaking and working well. Otherwise put a pair of kyb mounts and dampers (and boots) and swap springs from old ones. You might also want to flush ps system (or at least make sure level is correct). I use valvoline dex/merc atf for ps. I have 197,000 miles on mine (2006 Matrix).
As usual, a terrific video! If you knew how much I would love to leave my Toyota Corolla in your hands for a weekend! When will you open a branch in Bradenton FL? You are so honest, so thorough in showing and educating us about our Toyotas! Your are such a dedicated person not only to the work being done but also to the making of your videos so we can see and understand well what you are talking about. Always an excellent work and video. I wish there were 500 Petrs in USA, 50 per state. I do know in California (only today I learnt you live there) they do need you due to the CA inspections it is required there. In FL we do no have inspections, Many thanks again for all what you do, not only for Californians but for all of us.
I forget what the exact improvement was, but in May of 2005, Toyota Corolla engines received an upgrade. It probably had to do with having more channels for the oil to go through. Some 2005 models (and earlier) had severe oil sludge problems. If you're shopping for a used Corolla, look at the VIN plate for the manufacturing month and year on 2005 models.
From motorreviewer on 1zzfe: "The common problem for the 1ZZ engines, produced before 2005, is high oil consumption. The reason was in the bad design of oil piston rings, which was revised and improved in 2005."
I had a 1985 corolla and it has brought me all over the country florida to mn and back and back up to mn and up and down the east coast from florida to pennsylvania and back. The corolla was the most reliable car I've ever owned the only reason I got rid of it is I needed more ground clearance for what i was doing back in the 90's delivering pizza it was still running perfect when i traded it in.
This Gen Corolla 1.8 from 2004 thru 2008 Best Car EVER MADE! We got one toyota ,bought it brand new, yes 2005. got 190K miles, original water pump, Alternator, Starter,Engine /Transmission, Maintained with mobil 1 synthetic oil and rest of all fluids. Cold AC, Compressor was changed, at 140K miles. Love this Car
Same car at over 268,990 miles on it,prior owners took poor care(no fault of their own),yet it still runs strong. I'm trying to reverse the damage and put money into it so I can make it last many more years.
I have had several Corolla owners ask me how long they think their car will last, I always say; “As long as you keep repairing it, it will last forever.”
I have 2004 Corolla 1.4VVTi hatchback. Other than new exhuast and brake caliper sticking it has not had many problems. Its history has had new bushes on the control arms, but to my knowledge has had no engine problems. Oh the pesky P0420 code (for Ox sensor), so you should run a code scan before you commit to buying one. All in all they are very well made.
Owner of an 04 Coroda also. She is my baby...After Peters walk through, and a pair of rear bearing pressed in, customer is good for another 100k. Plenty of rusty places to form also :)
Recently bought one of the same year with 78,000 miles on odometer. It had P0420 Catalytic Converter engine code. It had a rusted out floor pan. It had rust through at the back of both rocker panels. Generally a reliable car.
I had to do major rocker panel repair on my fathers 2004 , had to completely replace inner rocker and floor section on the drivers side as well as both complete outer rockers and repair front fender bottoms . They do rust bad in salty winter driving if not properly protected. His has over 400,000kms on it runs great and just passed inspection after I fixed the rust .
wow this is the best channel i have watched related to corolla . please i am from Nigeria and have a car like this...it is currently overheating what do you think is likely the problem as someone is suggesting i remove the thermostart. please i need your help
I have a 2006 Camry. This certainly helps me to look at what to maintain (like change fluids and check them lol). I’m fact I just did all fluids. Thanks!!!!!! I wonder how to clean MAS? How to clean intake butterfly valve? Each must have his own cleaner I expect?
A big common problem with that engine is NVH at idle. Small displacement long stroke design is the culprit. Motor mounts need to be changed eventually. New sparkplugs and cleaning throttle body help as well.
My 06 Toyota corolla has a misfires on the #3 cylinder. I have moved coils around. Replaced coils, injector, o2 sensors. I've done compression tests, 125 psi in all four cylinders. I also checked for leaking intake, no leaks. Even tried to replace the ecm. I'm at a loss for what else it could be. I hope it isn't frayed wires.
2005 Corolla 185K everything‘s been great I change the trans fluid and coolant religiously. Only issue I need a new rack and pinion, the one fluid I neglected😥. Synthetic oil every 6K burns about 8 ounces between changes.
@@davidg5704 at around 200,000 is when you want to change the motor mounts out. The rear motor mount on mine came out in pieces. You'll probably need to do a valve cover gasket as well. It's stupid easy and stupid cheap to work on this car. LOL
I did the rear motor mount at 130k. The vibration was getting awful. Immediate relief after changing that part. Too bad no one makes quality aftermarket mounts
@@randalhill6283 yes I've done them all except rear motor mount. Car vibrates at idle like crazy. Upgrading exhaust manifold and replacing both cats so more room to do it then.
@@davidg5704 that rear one is a pain in the ass. But totally worth the effort. Mine was so bad after 240,000 miles that the rubber granulated when I pulled on it after we took it out of the car. Makes a whole world of difference.
Thank you for your contribution to auto education. To think i was over joyed when you found chewed-up strut boots... TOTALLY what my 2010 is like now. So it's not a big deal to leave them like that though?? I was ready to fix em... which i have no specific experience with... on this brand/model.
I have a 2003 model I've been driving it every day for 5 years not less than 60 miles a day the only thing I changed is the oil and brake pads the only problem is it burn oil, rattling engine before it warm up, minor transmission issue (automatic) it won't switch to 2nd gear until after 2k RPM. Yes it's a perfect car
Excellent. I'm looking at toyota matrix and pontiac vibes whuch are just corolla hatchbacks of the same year 2003-2008. Now know what to look for and when take it to be inspected before buying
Wow I actually have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 355,000 miles. I put $600 in his car before 300,000 miles. And that was 90% struts. This car is a absolute freaking beast. I literally almost put no money in this thing besides for fluid and gaskets until right before 300,000 miles where I change the struts myself. Why can't they make more cars like this. I have the CE model. The car is so basic I don't know what could break? Lol
Be careful with changing the transmission fluid. I would not touch if the car shifts normal. Old cars like that are delicate if their fluid has never been changed.
A change isn't as harsh as a flush, but like you mentioned it's iffy. Getting the level wrong is a much bigger issue IMO. Thick ATF is better than thin with these old ones.
Honestly the main problem with this car in my opinion is the low idle speed leading to vibration at red lights with your foot on the brake in Drive. Oh and the loud highway noise.
Hi- thank you for the great video! I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla - it drives fine and just hit 100k miles. I have the check engine light code P0171 System too Lean Bank 1. A mechanic I spoke to said it usually needs a new Intake Gasket Replaced - (the mix of gas/air is too low or something). But he hasn't seen the car yet and when looking at videos on here, it could be something with a loose hose, coroding hose, MAF or O2 sensors etc. Because you are expert inToyota, I'm wondering where you find most of the problems with this code P0171? Thank you! Marlene
My car was weeping a bit of coolent but now it stopped. Dont know if i should change the water pump or not as the car is now 300,000 miles. I know toyota make good parts and if its not broken dont change. I change the coolant every year.
You could probably pull 99% of those dents in the rear door and panel out using one of those big suction cups. Just clean the surface, lock the vacuum lever, then pull as hard and fast as you can. Keep moving all around the dented area a whole bunch of times, until it stops making it better. Pulling partially outside the edge of where the dent starts helps sometime. If the metal isn't creased much, you can get it back to near original condition with enough hard, fast pulls. It will always look better than a huge dent. And the vacuum pullers are cheap online. Always use the suction cups before trying any other methods of dent removal because they can't stretch or dent the metal, making the problem worse. Hitting it from the inside will make an outward dent. If you can get to the dent from the inside, push it with your hand, or pry on a piece of wood wrapped in thick towels to distribute the load, so as to not make bumps on the outside. Have a friend pull the suction cup, while you apply pressure from the inside.
Cleaning the throttle body is a popular thing to do. But you don't have to do it.. These vehicles are pretty low-maintenance in my experience. I think the same goes for SeaFoam treatment. Sure, the car runs better while the stuff is in it.
Should i buy a 04 corolla with 228K miles With an oil leak possibly timing tensioner gasket which is a common issue and maybe a valve cover gasket also has an oil pressure light which may need a new sensor? Friend wants 1k
Hello, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8-liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. I took out the PCV valve and it was noisy, I still cleaned it and replaced it and the problem continues, I already ordered the original one. Could it be a fault with the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft and Camshaft Sensor (CKP and CMP), the temperature sensor or the oil drain screw? I'm disoriented and I don't know what to check since the scanner doesn't give an error and the check engine light doesn't turn on either.
Excuse the delay. It's probably just dirt building up and harming the pollution control system. Also check the collars of all vacuums. Trouble isn't much sometimes.
I have a 04 Corolla with 199k miles, it is pulling to the left, so I took it to Firestone to rotate and aligned, after the alignment still pulling to the left so they swap the 2 front tires to see if it will pull to the right bu it is still pulling left. So they told me it was the control arm on the left, (tires they say are good) they also showed me when the mechanic stepped on brake the tire moves to the front. so should I trust them and change the control arms??
I have a 02 Corolla, cooling fans only work on low speeds with the a/c on causing the a/c not to cool when idling, when the a/c is off both fans come on high speeds to cool the radiator, in the past, both fans used to run full speed with the a/c on, I even hosed off the condenser, any idea's
I have 335,000 miles and besides regular oil changes 3000 miles, no other major problems. The transmission (manual) has been problems, mainly the clutch and the catalytic converter and sensors
Hi, l have a 2005 toyota matrix xr 5speed I check the battery with volt meter was good. When shifting the lights dim real fast and then if I sit with lights on and car running the idle goes down and up. I checked the Altnater with meter it goes up and down and at one point it was lest then 12volts and want up. It was happening real fast on the meter
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Common problem: It never dies so I am stuck with the same car for 20 years
😂
I have trumped you with a 98 Corolla 😀😀😀
@@stendecstretcher4983 I'm close with a 1999 Corolla that starts every single time. Valve cover gasket, struts, clean MAFS and the other cheap sensor replaced. New fuel injectors and Coils and plugs.... all easy and fairly cheap. 283K miles nearly trouble free; auto transmission.
Me to 385000
SAME HERE👍👍👍
I know one common problem with Corollas, they last a long long time!
It is a common "problem" with Toyota vehicles! 😁
@@armoricain I don't think I would call that a problem.
344K miles still moving
@@chasburns3303 damn what year? This i like to hear i hope i get that many out of mine
It's to a point where I want to buy a new car but my toyota wont die XD
A professional mechanic with a charming smile that you can trust.
If you can find a guy like
Mr. Toyota maintenance and you can’t do it yourself use him and stay away from a dealer most pay flat rate mechanics so they hurried through your three hour job in an hour and get paid the difference!
Toyota Corolla is the strongest standard car I have ever come across.
I lived in Bangkok and have seen Toyota Corollas reach 1 million kms ( 620,000 miles) on the same engine and gearbox.
2006 was probably the time of the most simple and reliable ones.
Yah there definitely the best year's to buy
I’m glad you mentioned 2006, as I am looking at 2005 and 2006 Corollas right now for sale.
This reminds me of my 04 RAV4. I took it to the dealership for each service interval - during which they are supposed to do a full inspection and fill out the paperwork each time. (because I do not have time so I pay them to do it). But later when problems happen I am told a problem has been going on for a long time and now additional damage occurred. Then I realize those inspections mean nothing if they do not actually check like Peter does! You rock Peter.
I just bought an ‘05 Corolla w 50k original miles to start off the 2024 year. This is the car I should have bought 10-15 years ago, but I've already been through one Ford, and a Hyundai. I hope this old thing outlasts them both
I have an '05 Corolla, which I maintain. Thank you for your expertise and professional guidance. I will take note.
I have a 2006 Corolla. This really helps me to know what to look for in terms of maintenance. Thanks for posting it.
My 2005 toyota corolla with 230,000 kms (143,000 miles) is still running strong. Same engine, gearbox, starter motor. Only basic maintenance like brakes, change oil, tire change, battery, drive belt, filters.
The car looks identical to the 2005 Corolla LE that I bought two weeks ago! I couldn’t be happier to see this video, although I really like the Tacoma maintenance too for our 2011 Tacoma. I’m just about to check out the Tundra’s broken leafspring video as well. There’s so much to learn!
Thank you for everything.
i had a 2005 Corolla. Great car! Still see these Corollas and Matrix everywhere.
That's what I have now. It's still going. And going.
Currently driving an 06 with 94k on it.
@@konkoly5183 yours is just a baby. Mine just cracked 253,000 miles. Its an 07. Just keep changing the fluids and replacing Parts as they break and it will just run and run and run. I still drive mine too and from Indiana on a regular basis. I'll get at least 340 miles out of tank of gas
@@randalhill6283 To be honest, I can't really afford the upkeep on it. I fucking hate cars.
@@randalhill6283 I'm glad to hear yours is still chugging along though! Mine has been idling rough for a while. Took it in a few times, but the mechanic said he couldn't tell, so I've just sort of let it go for now. Can't really afford to fix anything anyways.
The most reliable car EVER sold. Proper maintenance and they run forever. Thanks for the video.
Do you have any videos showing how to change these fluids on this generation Corolla? Cheers
My First car was a 1971 Toyota Corolla. My Dad gave me this car, which he purchased new in 1971. He gave it to me in May 1975 with 180,000 miles on it. Shortly after he gave me the car the Speedo Cable broke and I never repaired it. I sold the car in 1977 and I know it had over 200,000 miles on it. Here is why I feel these cars are a great value. My Dad bought this car new in 1971 for $1200.00 Cash. I sold it 6 years later, for $200.00 with over 200,000 miles and it still ran, just used a little oil. So, this car was driven over 200,000 miles for a cost of $1000.00. Heck, a replacement water pump job and Timing Belt cost more than this. I love Toyota's!!!! The best car and truck brand for over 50 years!!! Today, I drive a 2019 Toyota Tacoma SR 4X4 2.7 liter Engine with 6 foot Bed. I love this truck. Personally, I will drive only Toyota Brand Vehicles. This is why I love Peter's Channel! Great advice and information from a super honest and Master Technician: DR. Peter!!!!!
Just bought a brand new Toyota yesterday. Impossible to find a used decent one so it is what it is. Still got my 2004 4runner and I baby her...90k miles! Timmy C Arizona
The next 4runner I'm buying will be new, the old ones are too damn expensive! I just hope the 6th gens won't start at $50K. Around 20-22 years ago you could get a Limited for $30K out the door.
“Daaaark... like your darkest hour” 😂❤️
I’m glad Im not the only
one that caught that. 😂
A bit late to the party here, but we bought a 2006 Corolla (estate, or station wagon for our American friends) last year
Paid just under £2000 for her, she had a fairly comprehensive service history, but still got her checked out at our local Toyota dealer.
A full inspection and service, and all they found she needed was new tyres, rear brake discs and pads, and rear suspension bushes.
Since then, a small coolant leak and a small fuel leak occurred, both sorted quickly by the same dealer.
We now have a fully sorted car, that runs like a car many years younger than she actually is.
Probably the best "cheap" car we have ever owned and one that will last us for many years to come
I bought a 2017 corolla brand new 1 mile on it. It today has 94300 on it. Ive replaced the battery once, 1 set of tires and oil changes every 5000 miles and it runs brand new still. I am gonna replace the plugs and the serpintene belt here soon. Great car i will buy another no doubt.
Sounds like the only thing that was flushed previously was the customer's wallet
253.000 miles 2003 Corolla owner here. Issues with Idle control valve, CAT converter, Wheel hubs, Ignition coils, water pump, Oil leakage from Timing belt tensioner, Engine mounts, rear power window not working. Pretty much this car is SUPER reliable.
2004 corolla with 244,000 miles still running strong. It has outlived my other cars by far.
My first car was a Corolla & honestly that was the best car I had 😭 I was gonna get a Nissan Altima but I’m going to go to back to a Toyota. I just sold my 2005 Nissan Sentra
As an owner of a 2004 corolla with 143K miles, thank you for this video! I will def be watching it a few times.
What’s your km or miles per tank? I’m only getting 450 -500 km on a 06 Corolla with 175k km
@@joshuaboursier7314 You know im not entirely sure. I feel like i get more than that, high 300s for sure my car doesnt have the average mile rating on my dash. I just drive mine for commuting to work 4 days a week and maybe one errand day of driving. And a full tank lasts me almost 2 weeks. This is in FL, USA
@@EODtrooper I’m going to guess you have the 5 speed manual? I keep reading that they get better mileage compared to the 5 speed auto which is what I have.
@@joshuaboursier7314 Josh i do not have the manual. Regular auto, i think 4 speed? I checked this past week but i do not have any estimated mileage feature. Next gas fill up im going to reset the trip meter and see how much i get off a tank.
On my 4th 9th gen, this latest one being a CE. And yes I can confirm lol, every single one has had the same issues more or less. At least they’re predictable
Love this era of Corolla and love your videos. Thanks for making them and making them entertaining.
Corolla S, 2004, 120k miles, changed: transmission oil, coolant, serpentine belt, spark plugs. Planning to replace a PCV valve soon. Front shock boots are torn apart as well just like in this video.
Peter, I think they got this Corolla to you just in time, it looks like it has had a hard life.
Nah mate, she’ll be right for another 300 miles at least
@@economynotstable sorry I meant to say 300.000 miles
I bought this same car about a year ago and one thing started to go after another, but I’ve been really enjoying fixing it myself. Nothing major of coarse but I’m 800$ of parts into so far and about to do valve cover gasket as I do have oil I’m my spark plugs not much
@@joshuaboursier7314 how many kms/miles you got on it
@@guitarsender 175k km purchased at 155k
Hi, I have a 2003 Corolla LE with 107,500ml. I just changed both front struts with KYB strut plus units. I also replaced the timing chain tensioner. Thank you for the content.
The fact is this Corolla still has a long life to go. As an owner and to neglect your vehicle like this Toyota has been, is someone that does NOT DESERVE AN AUTOMOBILE!!!! Let's hope the new owner will be wiser and get the long life out of this Corolla with respectful care. Great job Peter🌟
You havent seen a neglected corolla i promise you this one is great mine is fuckked up bro but im changing parts every day next is new cluch
I enjoyed this. I have a 2004 corolla. I'll need to have a look to see any coolant residue has appeared. I also have split front shock boots but apparently it's not cause for replacement until the shock fails.
I have the same car with 150k miles. Original strut and shocks. Amazing reliability!
I noticed the front strut mount is flexible and making noise when turning. Power steering pump is whining.
You could just replace Strut mounts if shocks are not leaking and working well. Otherwise put a pair of kyb mounts and dampers (and boots) and swap springs from old ones. You might also want to flush ps system (or at least make sure level is correct). I use valvoline dex/merc atf for ps. I have 197,000 miles on mine (2006 Matrix).
I have an 03 Matrix so this was invaluable! Thank you sir
Nice video. Corolla was my first but Avalon is my favorite Toyota 😊
I had an avalon but already owned a corolla this model, sold the avalon with nice profit. Kept the corolla 😀
I just went from a 2007 Corolla to a 2005 Avalon and i love it!
As usual, a terrific video! If you knew how much I would love to leave my Toyota Corolla in your hands for a weekend! When will you open a branch in Bradenton FL? You are so honest, so thorough in showing and educating us about our Toyotas! Your are such a dedicated person not only to the work being done but also to the making of your videos so we can see and understand well what you are talking about. Always an excellent work and video. I wish there were 500 Petrs in USA, 50 per state. I do know in California (only today I learnt you live there) they do need you due to the CA inspections it is required there. In FL we do no have inspections, Many thanks again for all what you do, not only for Californians but for all of us.
I forget what the exact improvement was, but in May of 2005, Toyota Corolla engines received an upgrade. It probably had to do with having more channels for the oil to go through. Some 2005 models (and earlier) had severe oil sludge problems. If you're shopping for a used Corolla, look at the VIN plate for the manufacturing month and year on 2005 models.
From motorreviewer on 1zzfe: "The common problem for the 1ZZ engines, produced before 2005, is high oil consumption. The reason was in the bad design of oil piston rings, which was revised and improved in 2005."
@@scatpack1017 This issue goes back all the way to 1998. Can't understand why Toyota took so long to remedy this problem.
@@pedrofernandez8729 true
@@pedrofernandez8729 Probably because the symptoms aren't that obvious unless the engine has been abused. 😲
I had a 1985 corolla and it has brought me all over the country florida to mn and back and back up to mn and up and down the east coast from florida to pennsylvania and back. The corolla was the most reliable car I've ever owned the only reason I got rid of it is I needed more ground clearance for what i was doing back in the 90's delivering pizza it was still running perfect when i traded it in.
This Gen Corolla 1.8 from 2004 thru 2008 Best Car EVER MADE! We got one toyota ,bought it brand new, yes 2005. got 190K miles, original water pump, Alternator, Starter,Engine /Transmission, Maintained with mobil 1 synthetic oil and rest of all fluids. Cold AC, Compressor was changed, at 140K miles. Love this Car
buying used, anything I should look for cars ranging from 110k-160k miles. Would appreciate insight from a 1st owner perspective, thanks!
Could you do a step by step video on those rear drums? I loathe drums and have been putting off the drums on my commuter 01 Corolla.
Great Job Man. I have this car in 1.3l 2007 model, A very rough & tough car and also easy to maintan...
44 million sold and counting. Own a 2006 Toyota Corolla 1.4 vvt-i Manual with 78000 miles hope it lasts for years more
Very informative and easy to understand, thank you. I have a 2007 Corolla Ascent hatch and had no mechanical issues with it, near 300,000kms so far.
Same car at over 268,990 miles on it,prior owners took poor care(no fault of their own),yet it still runs strong. I'm trying to reverse the damage and put money into it so I can make it last many more years.
I have had several Corolla owners ask me how long they think their car will last, I always say; “As long as you keep repairing it, it will last forever.”
I have 2004 Corolla 1.4VVTi hatchback. Other than new exhuast and brake caliper sticking it has not had many problems. Its history has had new bushes on the control arms, but to my knowledge has had no engine problems. Oh the pesky P0420 code (for Ox sensor), so you should run a code scan before you commit to buying one. All in all they are very well made.
Owner of an 04 Coroda also. She is my baby...After Peters walk through, and a pair of rear bearing pressed in, customer is good for another 100k. Plenty of rusty places to form also :)
Recently bought one of the same year with 78,000 miles on odometer. It had P0420 Catalytic Converter engine code. It had a rusted out floor pan. It had rust through at the back of both rocker panels. Generally a reliable car.
That rust issue is usually unheard of with these. Thats a shock seeing that
Not so in the rust belt of the north east ,I have a similar issue.
I had to do major rocker panel repair on my fathers 2004 , had to completely replace inner rocker and floor section on the drivers side as well as both complete outer rockers and repair front fender bottoms . They do rust bad in salty winter driving if not properly protected. His has over 400,000kms on it runs great and just passed inspection after I fixed the rust .
"...like your darkest hour!" haha I'm gonna use that this week - thanks!!
"Darrrk, like your darkest hour!"
This is the content i come here for ❤
wow this is the best channel i have watched related to corolla . please i am from Nigeria and have a car like this...it is currently overheating what do you think is likely the problem as someone is suggesting i remove the thermostart. please i need your help
I have a 2006 Camry. This certainly helps me to look at what to maintain (like change fluids and check them lol). I’m fact I just did all fluids.
Thanks!!!!!!
I wonder how to clean MAS? How to clean intake butterfly valve? Each must have his own cleaner I expect?
Did you have problems with the steering pump on yours, I have the same car same year
That engine compartment was really dirty.
A big common problem with that engine is NVH at idle. Small displacement long stroke design is the culprit. Motor mounts need to be changed eventually. New sparkplugs and cleaning throttle body help as well.
Excellent knowledgeable mechanic
Very good work
Great and very helpful video! Great job explaining common issues in these Corollas!
Great detail. I just bought a 2005 S with 213k and is in way better shape,. BUT NOW I KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FORE AND REPLACE.
Keep up the great video's like the move involved ones probably don't remember i said make them more involved love the channel keep it up 👍👍
My 06 Toyota corolla has a misfires on the #3 cylinder. I have moved coils around. Replaced coils, injector, o2 sensors. I've done compression tests, 125 psi in all four cylinders. I also checked for leaking intake, no leaks. Even tried to replace the ecm. I'm at a loss for what else it could be. I hope it isn't frayed wires.
You spottet the coolant leak just in time before it gets nasty. 👍
2005 Corolla 185K everything‘s been great I change the trans fluid and coolant religiously. Only issue I need a new rack and pinion, the one fluid I neglected😥. Synthetic oil every 6K burns about 8 ounces between changes.
144k?? That one's just a baby. I've got an 07 Corolla S with 252,000 miles on it. And it runs like a top
Yeah I have 05 Corolla S with 144k. Love the dependability of these. Can confirm timing belt tensioner and belt pulley tensioner issues with these.
@@davidg5704 at around 200,000 is when you want to change the motor mounts out. The rear motor mount on mine came out in pieces. You'll probably need to do a valve cover gasket as well. It's stupid easy and stupid cheap to work on this car. LOL
I did the rear motor mount at 130k. The vibration was getting awful. Immediate relief after changing that part. Too bad no one makes quality aftermarket mounts
@@randalhill6283 yes I've done them all except rear motor mount. Car vibrates at idle like crazy. Upgrading exhaust manifold and replacing both cats so more room to do it then.
@@davidg5704 that rear one is a pain in the ass. But totally worth the effort. Mine was so bad after 240,000 miles that the rubber granulated when I pulled on it after we took it out of the car. Makes a whole world of difference.
Thank you for your contribution to auto education. To think i was over joyed when you found chewed-up strut boots... TOTALLY what my 2010 is like now. So it's not a big deal to leave them like that though?? I was ready to fix em... which i have no specific experience with... on this brand/model.
I have a 2003 model I've been driving it every day for 5 years not less than 60 miles a day the only thing I changed is the oil and brake pads the only problem is it burn oil, rattling engine before it warm up, minor transmission issue (automatic) it won't switch to 2nd gear until after 2k RPM. Yes it's a perfect car
Please let me know the part at 1:34
A connector, left to the dip stick and above alternator, in which wiring is running through
Excellent. I'm looking at toyota matrix and pontiac vibes whuch are just corolla hatchbacks of the same year 2003-2008. Now know what to look for and when take it to be inspected before buying
Intake manifold gasket also should be replaced if you notice a rough idle that gets worse in very cold weather.
Wow I actually have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 355,000 miles. I put $600 in his car before 300,000 miles. And that was 90% struts. This car is a absolute freaking beast. I literally almost put no money in this thing besides for fluid and gaskets until right before 300,000 miles where I change the struts myself. Why can't they make more cars like this. I have the CE model. The car is so basic I don't know what could break? Lol
Thank you Peter, always very informative :)
Dude, you’ve got my car on the hoist, absolute ripper of a car
Be careful with changing the transmission fluid. I would not touch if the car shifts normal. Old cars like that are delicate if their fluid has never been changed.
A change isn't as harsh as a flush, but like you mentioned it's iffy. Getting the level wrong is a much bigger issue IMO. Thick ATF is better than thin with these old ones.
For the auto trans yes, manual is fine.
Hi peter my wife has a toyota corolla 2012 le we bougth the car with 144k miles and now have 180k miles you recomend change the trnasmision oil?
Yes
Just drain and refill, don’t flush! Make sure you use the correct ATF. I do it every 30k or so.
Nice video. Where are you based at? I would like to get an appointment for you to inspect my Corolla
Honestly the main problem with this car in my opinion is the low idle speed leading to vibration at red lights with your foot on the brake in Drive. Oh and the loud highway noise.
Hi- thank you for the great video!
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla - it drives fine and just hit 100k miles.
I have the check engine light code P0171 System too Lean Bank 1.
A mechanic I spoke to said it usually needs a new Intake Gasket Replaced - (the mix of gas/air is too low or something). But he hasn't seen the car yet and when looking at videos on here, it could be something with a loose hose, coroding hose, MAF or O2 sensors etc. Because you are expert inToyota, I'm wondering where you find most of the problems with this code P0171?
Thank you! Marlene
2004 corolla , 416,000 stop and go miles, runs great
My car was weeping a bit of coolent but now it stopped. Dont know if i should change the water pump or not as the car is now 300,000 miles. I know toyota make good parts and if its not broken dont change. I change the coolant every year.
You could probably pull 99% of those dents in the rear door and panel out using one of those big suction cups. Just clean the surface, lock the vacuum lever, then pull as hard and fast as you can. Keep moving all around the dented area a whole bunch of times, until it stops making it better. Pulling partially outside the edge of where the dent starts helps sometime. If the metal isn't creased much, you can get it back to near original condition with enough hard, fast pulls. It will always look better than a huge dent. And the vacuum pullers are cheap online. Always use the suction cups before trying any other methods of dent removal because they can't stretch or dent the metal, making the problem worse. Hitting it from the inside will make an outward dent.
If you can get to the dent from the inside, push it with your hand, or pry on a piece of wood wrapped in thick towels to distribute the load, so as to not make bumps on the outside. Have a friend pull the suction cup, while you apply pressure from the inside.
9:38 is it necessary to replace the boots or we can just leave it like that because it is not leaking? thanks
Thank you, very helpful video. I have the leak on my timing belt tensioner. Does anyone know how many hour of labor toyota charges for that service?
Excellent excellent excellent
Cleaning the throttle body is a popular thing to do. But you don't have to do it.. These vehicles are pretty low-maintenance in my experience.
I think the same goes for SeaFoam treatment. Sure, the car runs better while the stuff is in it.
Should i buy a 04 corolla with 228K miles
With an oil leak possibly timing tensioner gasket which is a common issue and maybe a valve cover gasket also has an oil pressure light which may need a new sensor?
Friend wants 1k
Thanks for sharing this video, Peter.
What are you he main issues with a 96 Toyota Corolla?
Thank you Peter.
Your accent is very similar to my wife's Polish accent.
I have 241000 miles on mine. Nothing but oil changes.
WOW very kool great info. AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot keep up the great work
I found a 2001 corolla with 60k miles on it. Is this a good year? Thanks
Hello, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km of manual gearbox, 1.8-liter engine, type 1ZZ-FE. The fault is that when you turn it on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it warms up it goes up to 2000, that is, it does the opposite since I understand it should go down to about 900 rpm. and when I'm hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillates between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well, we took out the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, I clarify that you cannot take out the IAC valve to clean but the carburetor body was immersed in non-abrasive remover liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and were spotless. We put everything together and it starts doing the same fault. Then I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. The same if I disconnect the PCV valve and it idles at 200 rpm until it shuts off. I took out the PCV valve and it was noisy, I still cleaned it and replaced it and the problem continues, I already ordered the original one. Could it be a fault with the EGR vacuum valve or Crankshaft and Camshaft Sensor (CKP and CMP), the temperature sensor or the oil drain screw? I'm disoriented and I don't know what to check since the scanner doesn't give an error and the check engine light doesn't turn on either.
Excuse the delay. It's probably just dirt building up and harming the pollution control system. Also check the collars of all vacuums. Trouble isn't much sometimes.
Thank you great review video it was very helpful to me 🇯🇲💯
My toyota is running lean. Has some type of air leak but i still cant find were it is. I change the mainfold gasket and some air hoses in my car.
which was a better design? o ring or flat gasket for the tensioner?
I just bought this exact car and mileage. Bad highway sway. Borderline feeling unsafe. Any thoughts?
Sway bar is a known issue
@@ceylontea5877 I'm assuming front and rear? Thank you!!!!
Please which camera are you using sir?
I have a 04 Corolla with 199k miles, it is pulling to the left, so I took it to Firestone to rotate and aligned, after the alignment still pulling to the left so they swap the 2 front tires to see if it will pull to the right bu it is still pulling left. So they told me it was the control arm on the left, (tires they say are good) they also showed me when the mechanic stepped on brake the tire moves to the front. so should I trust them and change the control arms??
Is this year corollas or 2010 2013 better engines?
I have a 02 Corolla, cooling fans only work on low speeds with the a/c on causing the a/c not to cool when idling, when the a/c is off both fans come on high speeds to cool the radiator, in the past, both fans used to run full speed with the a/c on, I even hosed off the condenser, any idea's
I have 335,000 miles and besides regular oil changes 3000 miles, no other major problems. The transmission (manual) has been problems, mainly the clutch and the catalytic converter and sensors
Thanks - very helpful…….👍
Hi, l have a 2005 toyota matrix xr 5speed I check the battery with volt meter was good. When shifting the lights dim real fast and then if I sit with lights on and car running the idle goes down and up. I checked the Altnater with meter it goes up and down and at one point it was lest then 12volts and want up. It was happening real fast on the meter
im buying a 2003 toyota corolla on the weekend