@@byron1dagg80 Nah dont underestimate the work this takes. If he has to have it done, its thousands of dollaridoo's. Especially because you're changing the block, not the head. Engine mounts change, you have to make the gearbox mate, oil lines, etc. Not to sound like a prick but... in that case he should've kept the CL9 and shoved a K20A head on it.. that'd have been a lot cheaper.
Why do guys wreck the guards like this (rear). Just get wheels and tyres that actually fit. Looks like this guy rolled them with a jack and jack handle.
Great content mate, makes me miss my old accord euro. They are one of the best budget daily performance cars on the market and are criminally underrated.
I love the styling and interior of the Accord Euro R however they are prohibitively expensive here in Australia compared to our aussie spec K24 Euro. It is much more viable to mod our local model accordingly.
Good vlog bro, in my suggestion, it's better to go with whole k24a rbb motor, with k20 components. K20 cams have single added up rings on each cam, intake and exhaust, whereas k24 rbb cams have dual rings on each cam, which adds up the monster torque at even 1.5 rpm or 3000. Whereas with k20 head and k24 block you will still lack torque in low rpms. So if you put whole k24 head and k24 block rbb 1, 2, 3, 4.it becomes monster torque even at 1.5 rpm to 4000 rpm, and obviously when v tec kicks in at 45000 to 5000 rpm, it becomes rocket fast. I beat fc 1.5 turbos cvti stage 2 tuned, boosted at 21 psi, easily swiftly with my k24 euro r. I have my original head assembly resting in my garage of k20a of euro r, but I went for complete k24a rbb-4.mashallah its fast like rocket. Even at 1.5 rpm. To much torque and throttle response.
@@KiwiCarLife my orginal head assembly of euro r, unfortunately it's crank started giving noise rattling at 4000 rpm, my tps sensor had a low voltage code, but I couldn't calibrate it on time and car was running in limp mode. So then I pulled out my k20 assembly and just swapped k24a rbb - 4. I calibrated my tps sensor with the 4.71 value. And right after calibration, my vtec were on. No code after callibration. But I had to sacrifice my k20a crank prb crankshaft. Prb crank of k20a is 86 mm, whereas k 24 rbb crank is 99 mm. So more power more torque. Even at 1500 rpm car feels so light to drive, as it is 1390 kg.
@@KiwiCarLife bro, modifying it's head, you mean more aggressive cams, but after market cams are not good in long run, skunk 2cams etc, these cams are just good for a single drag, orginal cams are best In long run. So I just swapped whole k24a rbb - 4, all orginal orginal vtc, original cams original oil pump, and I tell you bro, I have beaten fc turbos 1.5, 21 psi boosted. You can watch its video on my channel. Roll on race with fc turbos cvti. And my euro r is beating them with long long gaps., I just hitted 160 km and turbo was atleast 4 to 5 cars gap back. My ecu is also stock of euro r cl7 rbc. Stock ecu, stock map and with limiter, because here In pakistan there is no tuner who can access euro r original ecu. They can't remap it or remove its limiter. They were asking me to I stall k Pro hondata. Which is very expensive. But actually I dont need it. Because original ecu has controlled k24 perfectly, vtec at 4500,and second v tec on 6000 rpm. Vtecs all over, and it's rocket fast.
Hassan where are you from Pakistan? Any plans on selling the k20a cams and rocker assembly? I have an euro r cylinder head without the cams assembly 😢.
@@hassansafeer7411 and bro just read your other comment. We have multiple options for ecu tuning of euro R. I too have an euro r running on k24a3 but I got the ecu reflashed and now vtec kicks in at 4k rpm and limiter is set at 7.8k. Running k24a3 with and euro r ecu will run it lean, so it safe to get a tune for that engine.
FD2 type Rs and Euro Rs have done it here where I am in Singapore and sadly the transport authorities will give us hefty fines for doing this modification and we have to revert it back to stock. We have yearly inspections and honda enthusiasts try their best not to get caught 😅
Actually, just putting tsx cams and 45° vtc it's the same as putting a k20 head...even better because TSX cams are better. Valves springs and retainers are better in the k20 head, but if you are not putting a stage 1/2 cams it doesn't matter
@@Esdru221 tbh if he wanted a tuned k24, he shouldve kept the cl9 with the k24a3, dropped some cams in with a 50deg vtc gear and be done with it. Oh well, buying cars is usually impulse driven, i have made some less-than-steller choices as well.
Remember this is a euro r though so had the k20a engine from factory. Agree if you have a k24 engine in any other Accord you're better off just tuning the existing head
hey accord man😂😂 just wanna clarify a lot of people are telling me euro accords have gearbox problems can u just let me know ur opinion cause i thought here would be the best place to ask
Manuals have no issues unless they've been thrashed or not serviced well which can wear out synchros. But they're basically bulletproof if properly maintained. The k24 5 speed auto is decent, but the j30 5 speed is known to fail
They can suffer with worn input shaft bearings & if used hard (abused) can have worn synchros, causing awkward shifting/grinding. That's true of any manual gearbox. Mine needs the bearings doing, just a quiet noise mostly detectable at idle. Despite the known issues, they are very strong transmissions capable of taking plenty of power. Literally every component of the trans has a performance upgrade part available.
@@KiwiCarLife so if I were to do this to my accord could it still be tuned well given that I have an auto or could the transmission rob me of power? Can I run my k24 cams in the k20 head or do I need k20 internals?
@@KiwiCarLife I just watched it thank u..u have question not sure if u would be able to answer..how much work will it take to get the 2.0s to run like type R or close?
Most tuners will cap the rpm at 8000 rpm on a k24. They start losing power around 7500 rpm, unlike thee k20 which makes power above 8000 rpm. Do you want torque at the expense of a higher revving engine? Only you can say 5:18
was daily driving your old accord frustrating at times due to it being manual, obviously its more fun but for daily driving it can get quite frustrating for most.
@@The_Noticer. love manuals was considering accord as daily and another car as my fun car idk how to drive manual just speaking from what some people have told me about driving manual in city
@@prisms902 Honda manual gearboxes operate so nicely that it's part of the fun. Most people also like to watch Netflix, it doesn't mean they're right. Or have good taste :D
Yeah Honda manuals are pretty easy to drive. I had no issues. Had a work car I usually drove to work for the last 2 years but for the first 6 months I was dailying the cl9 and it was great
@@KiwiCarLife I'd have not swapped it if it wasn't for the fact I had the NAVI model installed. Which only functions if you install the DVD. Which...if the players is no longer working, doesn't read :P Additionally, the NAVI model does not have buttons for the fanspeed and temperature control. You have to operate them from the screen, which you cannot read when the sun is on it. The Xtrons has knobs..
@@KiwiCarLife I see it is a significant improvement when switching from one of the economical intakes (basic) to the rbc or best rrc. However I've always wondered if it makes a significant change switching from rbc to rrc. Keep the vids coming!
@@edwincharlery2880 rbc loose a lot of low end, while rrc maintains very well low end comparing with stock rbb, but gives you a very punchy middle and highs
Please do this to yours, be such a good series
Lotta money and effort tho haha
@@KiwiCarLife bit of money and some effort
@@byron1dagg80 Nah dont underestimate the work this takes. If he has to have it done, its thousands of dollaridoo's.
Especially because you're changing the block, not the head. Engine mounts change, you have to make the gearbox mate, oil lines, etc.
Not to sound like a prick but... in that case he should've kept the CL9 and shoved a K20A head on it.. that'd have been a lot cheaper.
Why do guys wreck the guards like this (rear). Just get wheels and tyres that actually fit. Looks like this guy rolled them with a jack and jack handle.
@@The_Noticer. where do you get a k20a head though
Great content mate, makes me miss my old accord euro. They are one of the best budget daily performance cars on the market and are criminally underrated.
Yeah absolutely
I love the styling and interior of the Accord Euro R however they are prohibitively expensive here in Australia compared to our aussie spec K24 Euro. It is much more viable to mod our local model accordingly.
Yeah agree
K swap the world !
Like share and subscribe ✌️
Yuuuurs quality engine
Good vlog bro, in my suggestion, it's better to go with whole k24a rbb motor, with k20 components. K20 cams have single added up rings on each cam, intake and exhaust, whereas k24 rbb cams have dual rings on each cam, which adds up the monster torque at even 1.5 rpm or 3000. Whereas with k20 head and k24 block you will still lack torque in low rpms. So if you put whole k24 head and k24 block rbb 1, 2, 3, 4.it becomes monster torque even at 1.5 rpm to 4000 rpm, and obviously when v tec kicks in at 45000 to 5000 rpm, it becomes rocket fast. I beat fc 1.5 turbos cvti stage 2 tuned, boosted at 21 psi, easily swiftly with my k24 euro r. I have my original head assembly resting in my garage of k20a of euro r, but I went for complete k24a rbb-4.mashallah its fast like rocket. Even at 1.5 rpm. To much torque and throttle response.
Yeah fair enough, in this case though if you already have a k20a engine, might as well mod the k20a head
@@KiwiCarLife my orginal head assembly of euro r, unfortunately it's crank started giving noise rattling at 4000 rpm, my tps sensor had a low voltage code, but I couldn't calibrate it on time and car was running in limp mode. So then I pulled out my k20 assembly and just swapped k24a rbb - 4. I calibrated my tps sensor with the 4.71 value. And right after calibration, my vtec were on. No code after callibration. But I had to sacrifice my k20a crank prb crankshaft. Prb crank of k20a is 86 mm, whereas k 24 rbb crank is 99 mm. So more power more torque. Even at 1500 rpm car feels so light to drive, as it is 1390 kg.
@@KiwiCarLife bro, modifying it's head, you mean more aggressive cams, but after market cams are not good in long run, skunk 2cams etc, these cams are just good for a single drag, orginal cams are best In long run. So I just swapped whole k24a rbb - 4, all orginal orginal vtc, original cams original oil pump, and I tell you bro, I have beaten fc turbos 1.5, 21 psi boosted. You can watch its video on my channel. Roll on race with fc turbos cvti. And my euro r is beating them with long long gaps., I just hitted 160 km and turbo was atleast 4 to 5 cars gap back. My ecu is also stock of euro r cl7 rbc. Stock ecu, stock map and with limiter, because here In pakistan there is no tuner who can access euro r original ecu. They can't remap it or remove its limiter. They were asking me to I stall k Pro hondata. Which is very expensive. But actually I dont need it. Because original ecu has controlled k24 perfectly, vtec at 4500,and second v tec on 6000 rpm. Vtecs all over, and it's rocket fast.
Hassan where are you from Pakistan? Any plans on selling the k20a cams and rocker assembly? I have an euro r cylinder head without the cams assembly 😢.
@@hassansafeer7411 and bro just read your other comment. We have multiple options for ecu tuning of euro R. I too have an euro r running on k24a3 but I got the ecu reflashed and now vtec kicks in at 4k rpm and limiter is set at 7.8k. Running k24a3 with and euro r ecu will run it lean, so it safe to get a tune for that engine.
Это называется гибрид. У нас в Сибири и на Дальнем Востоке есть экземпляры К24 с головой от К20, которые развивают около 300 л.с. на Hondata.
Very nice
"блок от CR-V, голова от аккорда, Миша на субару насвай насыпал...")
OMG, so funny to see you driving around my home town, HAHAHA! Hope the Auckland trip went well, another great video!
Yep that's the one haha plenty more Auckland vids to come
From the sound perspective only, somehow I prefer the higher pitch noise of the K20A.
Great work as always mate!
Yeah fair enough it does sound a little different. This one only seemed to rev to 8k for some reason. Must be in the tune
The car is literally every Honda fans' dream.
Mmm yes lovely vehicle
these are for people who are a)shit at driving b) priced out of turbo rwd awd jdm
HAHA how wrong you are
Hondas are the best cars ever
Well... best "affordable" fwd cars ever I think I'd back that up. But there are plenty of excellent cars out there
Was awesome having you had a go at it! Flick me a msg anytime when you’re back in AKL. 🤙
Will do man!
If you aren’t a fan of the cl7 seats. Try the Type S seats from a CL9. Straight bolt on but slightly plug and play
Yeah I know I used to own a CL9 🤣
FD2 type Rs and Euro Rs have done it here where I am in Singapore and sadly the transport authorities will give us hefty fines for doing this modification and we have to revert it back to stock. We have yearly inspections and honda enthusiasts try their best not to get caught 😅
Do they honestly check the engine code on the block itself?
@@websterboyHD they do brother. Singapore has one of the more stringent rules for car modifications in the world. Sigh.
Goodness, at least the k20a is still an awesome engine
Actually, just putting tsx cams and 45° vtc it's the same as putting a k20 head...even better because TSX cams are better. Valves springs and retainers are better in the k20 head, but if you are not putting a stage 1/2 cams it doesn't matter
TSX is K24, no? So it requires a K24A head.
@@The_Noticer. yeah... I don't understand that reasoning haha
@@Esdru221 tbh if he wanted a tuned k24, he shouldve kept the cl9 with the k24a3, dropped some cams in with a 50deg vtc gear and be done with it. Oh well, buying cars is usually impulse driven, i have made some less-than-steller choices as well.
@@The_Noticer. exactly, well he would need upgrade oil pump too
Remember this is a euro r though so had the k20a engine from factory. Agree if you have a k24 engine in any other Accord you're better off just tuning the existing head
Yeah wouldn’t it just be easier doing a Frankenstein to a CL9 than CL7R?
No? Good luck finding a k20a, finding a k24 is easy
Whats the 0-100kmh time?
Low 6s range
Does the transmission have a type r gearset with 5.1fd or stock gears and 5.1fd?
Type r gearset. It’s a euro r
The gears are so short! My 06 TSX feels like it has good ratios….until I saw this video!
Haha yep type r's always have super short ratios, plus this one has the shorter FD too
Hi Mate, Any review on Suzuki Swift Sport? Cheers 👍
Yeah gotta fine one to review at some point
this cars on facebook marketplace now , $15k
Yeah it's changed hands a few times since filming this vid
How much does that cost to do. Thinking of doing it to a CL9
Probably a good 5 grand
Is the fn2 type r common in new Zealand and Australia?
Yeah relatively
hey accord man😂😂 just wanna clarify a lot of people are telling me euro accords have gearbox problems can u just let me know ur opinion cause i thought here would be the best place to ask
Manuals have no issues unless they've been thrashed or not serviced well which can wear out synchros. But they're basically bulletproof if properly maintained. The k24 5 speed auto is decent, but the j30 5 speed is known to fail
They can suffer with worn input shaft bearings & if used hard (abused) can have worn synchros, causing awkward shifting/grinding. That's true of any manual gearbox. Mine needs the bearings doing, just a quiet noise mostly detectable at idle. Despite the known issues, they are very strong transmissions capable of taking plenty of power. Literally every component of the trans has a performance upgrade part available.
Perfect timing no cap
No cap
@@KiwiCarLife so if I were to do this to my accord could it still be tuned well given that I have an auto or could the transmission rob me of power? Can I run my k24 cams in the k20 head or do I need k20 internals?
Prefer K20A more, also is original Japan
Yeah it is a little better I suppose
How’s Israel Adesanya?😂😂
Not sure who that is
It rips!
Looks good, sounds good!, got to be a winner!
Absolutely
Hi man please do a civic fd 1.8i and the 2.0i(k20z2)
Already done the 2.0L a couple weeks ago
@@KiwiCarLife I just watched it thank u..u have question not sure if u would be able to answer..how much work will it take to get the 2.0s to run like type R or close?
you should review the 9th gen honda accord v6, maybe get one as well
Review coming
@@KiwiCarLife ❤❤
I want to put a k 20 head on my us accord
Would be very cool
Should do a crown one of these 🤔
Crown?
_really consistent content, keep it coming bro_ 👍🏼
Thanks!
May I know it need to tune the car ? And the redline of k24
Yeah it will need tuning
Most tuners will cap the rpm at 8000 rpm on a k24. They start losing power around 7500 rpm, unlike thee k20 which makes power above 8000 rpm. Do you want torque at the expense of a higher revving engine? Only you can say 5:18
Your euro R looks better from this one you just review. I definitely take your any day
Gee it wasn't when I first got it hahah
@@KiwiCarLife oh haha what repair was needed or need to be done
@@yamKenny have you seen my Euro R videos?? 🤣🤣
@@KiwiCarLife I seen the one I replied to. Haha 😅
was daily driving your old accord frustrating at times due to it being manual, obviously its more fun but for daily driving it can get quite frustrating for most.
wouldn't trade it for the world.
Manual
@@The_Noticer. love manuals was considering accord as daily and another car as my fun car idk how to drive manual just speaking from what some people have told me about driving manual in city
@@prisms902 Honda manual gearboxes operate so nicely that it's part of the fun. Most people also like to watch Netflix, it doesn't mean they're right. Or have good taste :D
Yeah Honda manuals are pretty easy to drive. I had no issues. Had a work car I usually drove to work for the last 2 years but for the first 6 months I was dailying the cl9 and it was great
What a screamer!!!
Ooh yeah
What speed would you compare this to, like what car..
Very similar to my cl9, but a bit more snappy
@@KiwiCarLife Yeah but what other cars. Like not accord euro
How much is an fn2 over in NZ?
15-20k ish
@@KiwiCarLife Would you take an FN2 over a CL9?
Both here in aus are around 15k for a clean example. Bit torn.
FIRST
Well done
Kiwi
Yes
hey saw that head unit in the interior, what's the head unit called??
Its the one everyone has lol. Its an XTRONS.
Yeah I have no idea coz I hate them HAHA
@@KiwiCarLife I'd have not swapped it if it wasn't for the fact I had the NAVI model installed. Which only functions if you install the DVD. Which...if the players is no longer working, doesn't read :P
Additionally, the NAVI model does not have buttons for the fanspeed and temperature control. You have to operate them from the screen, which you cannot read when the sun is on it. The Xtrons has knobs..
@@The_Noticer. yep same with mine. Very annoying
@@KiwiCarLife Its still a piece of shit though :D But its better than the non-functioning NAVI thing.
yes the best
Lovely car
👍👍👍
Cheers
Rbc vs rrc i Wouldn't mind a comparison I Have been interested But I couldn't find any stats I've heard about the gains but no solid evidence
Yeah that's getting a bit outside my knowledge sorry
@@KiwiCarLife I see it is a significant improvement when switching from one of the economical intakes (basic) to the rbc or best rrc. However I've always wondered if it makes a significant change switching from rbc to rrc. Keep the vids coming!
@@edwincharlery2880 rbc loose a lot of low end, while rrc maintains very well low end comparing with stock rbb, but gives you a very punchy middle and highs
AccordCarLife
That's the one haha