Predator 212 - Series 30 Torque Converter Install: The SMOG Project 05
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Step-by-step installation of a generic "Series 30" torque converter (torque-a-verter) go kart transmission on a Harbor Freight Predator 212 non-hemi engine. The generic "Series 30" torque converter is for engines 6-8hp. It's pulley ratio range is 2.7:1 (low) to 0.90:1 (high).
If you enjoyed this video and would like to learn more about SMOG, the 1,150 lb. dragon-tricycle, please click here: • Building a Fire Breath...
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you prolly dont care but does someone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
Now is this basically the same method I would use when installing a Torque Converter on a stock 196cc Mini Bike Engine ?
Should be. Both the 196cc and 212cc engines are clones of the Honda GX-series engines. The TAV kits are knock-offs of the Comet Torque-A-Verter. YMMV, but the install procedure "should" be similar.
This is a great step by step how to video minus the the part where you forgot to put the belt on at the end of the video but I'll try to remember to put the belt on before the pulley cover some time lol. I just got the Torque Converter and Riser Plate in the mail today so I'm getting ready to do this install. I just wish I could see how to remove the mini bike clutch that is on there now and install the riser plate that I will have to do before I start putting the Torque Converter on. Also not sure how to make the new chain the proper size but I'll have to figure it out on my own I guess. Basically I have a 196cc Mini Bike and I'm replacing the stock clutch with this new Torque Converter so i must figure out how to get everything off first before I put new stuff on. If I gotta put this Riser Plate in that means I have to take the whole Engine out which sounds like a lot of work but hopefully it goes smoother than I'm thinking it will go.
Re-sizing the chain is easy. But you WILL need a chain-breaker tool for your chain size. Trying to drive out a pin with a hammer & punch not only sux, but usually just mangles the chain.
Great video, no blaring music, no segments of you playing with dogs, etc, Just thoughtful instructions. Too bad other videos don't take yours as an example.
Best comment I've ever read on TH-cam
10-4 I look to these for details & helps, all the other mumbo jumbo is a waste of MY time
I don’t understand why this video has any dislikes. This guy is giving people decades of his earned knowledge in 27 minutes for free. I’m mainly watching this because I’m on my machine at work and bored (steel mill roll shop maintenance) and wanted to see if I could learn something I didn’t already know. I can tell you this guy knows what he’s talking about and is giving us way more information than the bare minimum that is needed to install this torque converter. A lot of what he is saying can be used for many different things.
THANKS! When I first started making videos for The SMOG Project, I never thought anyone other than my friends would watch them. But with this video, I decided to try to show ALL of the steps that the other videos skip over. It was sort of an experiment because I also write step-by-step guides at work. Sometime around last Christmas, this video started to take off. Which blows me away, because it really isn't a very good video. But I'm happy that a few thousand people were able to take something away from it, good or bad. I hope that everyone enjoys it, and that it helps with everyone's projects.
The company you work for should give you a RAISE if you're doing step by step guides, been there & done that & even butted heads with engineers & tech publications about how crappy theirs were LOL
@@doktorscottdiabolical
Haters gonna hate , i enjoyed the video
This is my first time working on an engine and i was stressing how i couldnt find a good video that actually explains it and i found this it shows u step by step and even shows u how to fix a mistake that i bet a lot of people do
Being an A&P license holder I truly enjoyed hearing about the special BeLL Helicopter 🚁 spanner wrench from your dad. Those are special moments and aviation is rich with heritage and history. 👏🏼 😊
The bob Ross of minibike engine work! Haha love it. Watching you reminds me of watching my grandfather teach me how to do things. It’s the small details in his words. Just like you! Great work
Litterally the best video covering the install of these torque converters! Purchased a kit from a large seller of these and their instruction video left me with a lot of questions and extra parts. Thanks for the help!
Thank you, me and a friend are going to change the one on my kart now. I've had it sitting in the garage forever and been intimidated by it but this video made me much more comfortable.
I’ve watched a lot of videos on how to in stall this unit and I have to say this is by far the best one I have watched thank you.. you cleared up some things I did not know. Now I can install the torque converter with confidence that it is done right. Great job. I’ll be looking for more of your videos again great job.
Thank you. I really appreciate it. When I made this video, I never thought more than a few dozen people would watch it. I was creating a lot of step-by-step guides at work at the time, and the video was just sort of an experiment. I really wish I could be out in the lab making more videos right now. But in the last 6 months, I've been away from home almost 7 weeks. Between that, my own chronic illness, and the Colorado weather... there just hasn't been time. Hopefully I'll have some more content in a few weeks.
@@doktorscottdiabolical I'm same , But 11 Chronic illness's but NO snow or covit here but I know what you mean about the hindrances etc & just playing around with the video initially !. Goodonya .Trev New Zealand, Home of the world's fastest old Indian & Indy etc racer Scott Dickson.Good effort, for those who don't know Engineering wise but FINE threads in Alloy (Crankcase) have a habit of stripping if torque'd up too much...everyone's been warned....
Great video! I would probably adjust my torque down a little on those bolts with antiseize to cover the frictional differences.
17:21 a better way to hold the engine while torquing the clutch bolt, is to use a piston stop pin in place of the spark plug, or stuff several feet of starter cord down the hole when the piston is down on the power stroke, this way the valves are closed and will not be damaged. Doing it by holding the starter cord, you are putting stress on the starter dogs in the pull starter, and these are made of plastic, so you run the risk of damaging them . Small engine shop owner here.
Thank you for this very detailed tutorial! I have been watching several other videos that were not presented very well at all. My son and I are converting a centrifugal clutch to a torque converter for the first time and this video is exactly what I’ve been looking for!
Your welcome. I had the same experience before I made the video. Lots of banging and power tools, but never the critical details you really need. This was one of my early videos and I wish the production quality was better. But I'm glad you found it useful.
LOL ...... NOTHING wrong with the production quality my friend, and I'm a FANATIC about Quality issues & creation of such detailed helps having worked 40+ years within the Quality MFG field, NOTHING was lacking in this production & SALUTE to your dad ! @@doktorscottdiabolical
Only video that helped me after 5 hours of looking🙏🏽
Great job scott! I wished everyone did videos like you. Perfect, clear and to the point, thank you very much.
Thanks for the video, the smart guy who sold me the mini bike with aftermarket TAV and engine decided to use an impact and the bolts are forever stuck until I decided to purchase a new predator 212 and comet kit.
Great video, straight to the point great tutorial, a lot of information that is hard to find anywhere else.
I did the same thing to my mini bike, this is the way to do it! You get so much more speed from torque converters, my mini bike went 25mph before I put the torque converter on and after it can almost go 60mph.
SUPERB / EXCELLENT production, I didn't know ANYTHING about these setups and was considering one on this engine to turn a Snapper mower into a cart with a live axle, this GREAT DETAILED clip will now make my install flawless, as a 40+ year Snapper Mower MFG QC guy I really dig those that can detail such, SUBBED due to the EXCELLENT NO BS details
Thank you for the help bud. First time installing a torque converter and your video literally was a step by step video and it helped out a lot. lol I forgot to install belt too, good thing I watched until the end instead of installing engine and then trying to put belt on then.
IMO an excellent and professionally produced informative video! Thank sir!
Excellent instructional video thanks. It's well paced and very thorough. I love the way you dealt with forgetting the belt, I will remember that when installing mine and save doing the same thing 😂.
WHICH WAY the bevel goes was a EXCELLENT mention for sure
Man time flies when you working on any 2 wheeler. NICE...
I tried to install this the other day and the instructions were a joke... the thing came half way put together and the instructions had 3 steps and 4 pictures. I have no idea if I put it on right or not.
Interesting.. looks like i had it pretty close up to the shims. Glad I watched this or I never would have known to check for that.
Very helpful video...primarily due to the belt orientation in my situation. I had mine on backward and I had a very low top speed.
GEEZ as of 12 /31 / 2023 I've read EVERY 263 comments because the production was SO GOOD I knew there had to be a number of questions or stupid comments I could laugh at. This will be MY GO TOO when I get to this stage of my project
In the old days if we needed to keep the engine from spinning when tightening a flywheel for example, remove the spark plug and stuff a piece of rope in the plug hole till enough is in the cylinder to keep the pistol from moving. Tighten the nut down then remove the rope.
That is actually a good idea :)
It’s what this 72 years mechanic still does
The belt is directional, there is a flat side and a angled side. The angled side goes away from the engine to match the slope of the torque converter.
He said that
He DIDN'T miss that point, BUT glad you mentioned that IMPORTANT part
Very helpful information and I like the way you took your time and explained everything thoroughly. Great job 👏
Great video, but you might want to note that using anti-seize on a bolt and then torquing to spec will greatly over-tension the bolt.
Unless otherwise stated, torque specs are for clean, dry, new assemblies. Dirty, buggered, oily, or worn threads won't torque properly.
NOT a real big deal, it appears that he has had to remove such that SHOULD of been anti seized in the 1st place
Hmm 1971 that was a great year. Thanks for the tips!
Love love this content and thanks for you assistance, especially the info about knowing the ratio for our bikes as that leads into the chain and sprocket combo I’ll need. Good stuff.
Very thorough. The GTC manual said about 12 foot pounds on that jackshaft nylock nut. I think 30 is too much
Thank you very much for the information regarding the gear ratios. I was looking for this info and could not find ... So, thank you very much. Greetings from Brazil!
This guy has a vendetta against impact wrenches lol. I used a tiny dewalt impact to install mine, super quick and as long as u only let it impact a time or too you won’t over due it. Especially if u have selectable power settings like mine does. But who knows maybe it all seizes up on me or my engine blows up😂
You have watched the wrong video. You wanted "how to do it in 6 minutes and maybe screw up if you ain't lucky". My video is 27 minutes long. In my experience no power tool, especially an impact tool, provides enough tactile feedback to consistently avoid stretching or tearing out the threads of these cheap, Chineseium-alloy engines. Nor do they provide enough control to avoid warping parts due to inconsistent torque values on multiple bolts. Sure, impact drivers "can" be used successfully for this installation. So can an 11-ft long snipe. But neither will be a good choice in the hands of the inexperienced person this video was intended for.
"This guy has a vendetta against impact wrenches lol."
YEP, your clip removes potential issues for those unlearned, IF someone follows YOUR procedure to a T they will have NO issues unless it's defective parts@@doktorscottdiabolical
Amazing instruction. Also shocked to hear the lafayette, la shout out. Lived in Lafayette my entire life.
Great. Now I'm hungry for Dean-O's....
That TAV is very clever! the series 30! Wow!
Oh yeah 😎. Got interested in Torque-Converters after talking to John senior at "Mableton Lawnmower and Go-cart Repair" in Mableton, Georgia West of Atlanta.
John said that a Go-cart with a Torque-Converter can literally Walk-away from a Chain-driven Go-cart both with 6.5 horsepower motors. 😳 Wanting power my adult Trike with 212cc, 6.5 Hp Predator so I can pull my 150 pound (empty weight) garden-tractor trailer from Northern Equipment to Lowe's and Home Depot .
SMOG weighs 1,350 lbs. I had plenty of power and no belt slippage while climbing a 4% grade. But I use a ton of gear reduction. Top speed is only 5 mph because : parade float.
I thought i was learning a new trick by you not putting that belt on first 😀
Best video ever thank you
What size bolt did you use (fine threaded stainless bolt)
The bolt that goes into the end of the crankshaft depends on exactly which engine you have, and where you live. Some are metric, some are American threads. Check the manufacturer specs for your specific engine & model.
Es el primer vídeo con explicaciones al detalle, excelente. Mis felicitaciones y me suscribo para seguir aprendiendo...
Thank you for that show. Very good presentation. I learned.
Glad you enjoyed it!
as far as tightening that bolt on the clutch,from what ive read that lil slit in the washer is to hold a flat head screwdriver so you can tighten the bolt. Am i wrong? Maybe. im on my first go kart myself.
Must put the torque to the wheel pretty well. 👍🇺🇸👍awesome on a 26 inch bicycle.
You are a life saver bro
17:50 lol , good job so far best predator 212 torque converter install I've seen on TH-cam, most other videos they just slap it on and don't go over the details
I think the pulleys are suppose to be a bit offset, as it helps with tention and prevent slipping.
Great video, very detailed. Appreciate it
Hi thanks for the video. Can you tell me what’s the overall width of whole motor plus converter assembly?
On the oil caps just put one or two washers.
Great video
Excellent details ,Very helpful start to finish.
Great video...how much power do you think it adds?
so detailed we even made the mistakes with you
wow. what a great video. thanks for posting this.
You're welcome!
Very helpful video. Thank you.
My girlfriend's grandfather and stepdad both work for PHI and the grandfather was there in 1971
I HAD TO CHASE THE INTERNAL THREADS ON THE FRONT PULLEY ATTACH BOLT HOLE ON THE MOTOR WITH (5/16 x FINE THREAD TAP ) AS THE CORRECT (BOUGHT SEPARATELY ) BOLT WOULD ONLY GO IN LESS THAN 2 TURNS . NOTE : THE WRONG BOLT THAT CAME WITH THIS FRONT CHINESE PULLEY WAS AN 8MM X125 ! VIDEO (IT WOULD GO IN LESS THAN ONE TURN -+ AND BIND)
EXCELLENT VIDEO ...........
Got a problem. In my country I can't get a predator engine but similar. The problem is the jackshaft dismeter is either 18mm or 20 mm. Do you think the cvt kit will fit in one of them?
You're the man what a great video
Good video
What’s the size of the bolt that goes on the drum of the torque converter? I’m asking because I lost mine and I can’t find the right measurements
That bolt goes directly into the end of the crankshaft. So the diameter and thread pitch depend on the engine you're using and what it's tapped for. My Predator 212cc wedge-head is tapped 5/16"-24 tpi (I'm in the USA). Length is also dependent on your engine, your actual setup and how you positioned the backing plate, the number of shims you had to improvise to get everything to line up, etc, etc. That may take some experimentation. But remember, you can "shorten" a bolt with a hacksaw.
@@doktorscottdiabolical thank you for your help!!! Do you think that it is in home depot?
Maybe. But it would be in one of the "special bolt" drawers since 5/16"-24 is UNF "fine" pitch. You'll have better luck at Ace Hardware or Tractor Supply.
Is the bronze bushing 3/4”?
Such a great video. Is the mounting plate necessary? I have a predator 212 with a 30 series off a 3203 yerf dog but it didnt come with the mounting plate
Not absolutely necessary. But it provides the driven pulley & jackshaft with the correct geometry in a convenient package.
Could you possibly do a video explaining the proper sprockets to choose with this torque converter? I love this video and it was extremely detailed.
I'm not sure what information you're looking for. With sprockets, there are three critical dimensions: chain pitch (i.e. chain size, like #35 or #40), axle diameter (the size of the hole in the sprocket), and tooth count (determines your drive ratio). There's more information on the sprockets I used in my "transmission assembly" and "dog clutch" videos. But keep in mind that I'm building a big, heavy, very slow parade float with 60" wheels. So my choice of components are based on my experience with that application.
I enjoyed listening and learned some thank you for step by step , I have a question if you can do a video, now that you installed the torque converter is it possible you can show how to install electric starter without removing the pull starter ? Please let me know ?
Thanks
Mr.Ruiz
Good suggestion. Currently, electric start is beyond my budget. But I'd love to have it some day.
Very nice. I am working on putting an old Koehler 12hp in a club car cart. The shaft is just a tad over one inch so I’m hoping if I order the 1” torque converter that it will fit.
Fingers crossed. With any precision made part, thousandths of an inch (or 10ths of a millimeter) count. But the tolerances on the parts in my kit are pretty loose. So you may get lucky. Let us know how it goes.
Did ya get your golf cart project finished?
Nice video I’ve done a lot of these and you did a great job
Is it possible to mount the sprocket on the circlip side of the driven shaft?
Not with my kit. At least, not without a good bit of modification and lathe work. I have heard of a kit that does have that setup. But I've never seen it.
EXCELLENT VIDEO THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME
I am doing a engine swap on my Coleman CT200U and I installed the engine and torque converter so where do I put the chain
i put a torque converter on my mini bike but the clutch isn’t engaging do you know why?
Watch the "engine pulley" as you increase RPM. The side of it should move inward to engage the belt. If it's not moving, something isn't assembled correctly. If it is moving but just doesn't engage the belt, check that you have the belt installed correctly. One side has a bevel. If that isn't it, you may have a washer in he wrong place or something assembled in the wrong order.
Excellent how to video. 👍
We did everything right with these exact engine/parts...but when it runs its fairly sluggish and the t converter is rather noisy...like shaking metal on metal...maybe the bolt that holds the left smaller pulley (clover part) needs to be tightened?I think the problem is right there....
Yep, sounds like something is loose. My TAV doesn't make any odd noises. You can hear the "belt whine" when it's engaged, but that's it. No rattling, no clunking on engagement, or anything like that. If it looks like your drive-pulley (the one on the crankshaft) is loose and it won't get any tighter even if you add more torque to the bolt, you may need a shim (or more than one) in the stack of pulley parts. It's possible that the bolt is bottoming out on the end of the crankshaft before the inner half of the pulley is seated or has sufficient clamping pressure from the bolt. Or... your bolt may be too long and it may be bottoming out in the hole before it creates sufficient clamping force on the pulley stack. If that's the case, get a shorter bolt or cut a bit off the end of the one you have.
The reason why is because this guy is telling you the wrong way to mount your drive converter your drive converter has to be with the gazing part towards the end of it looks like it's on backwards but that's how it's supposed to be on I called five different manufacturers they told me every one of them that that drive pulley the big fat bully goes on with the fat part towards the engine he is putting it on backwards and this is a fact called the manufacturers comet and a few other ones this is the wrong installation that drive pulley has to go on backwards as soon as you put it on backwards you will see lines up almost perfect you might have to put a small washer behind it or you might have to sand down the sprocket a little bit to move the polio in a tiny bit but I didn't have to do anything to my in Mayan runs perfectly in uniform the belt does not twist does not make any noise your belt should not move from side to side under idle or high RPM if you kick the gas in your belt decides to go sideways that means it's wrong it supposed to move over in Unisom it supposed to move together on one side it's not supposed to twist at all
David, FYI: I do not tolerate swearing, name-calling, flaming, or trolling on my channel. So I am not going to approve your original comment for that reason, and that reason alone. If you would like to share your insights WITHOUT being negative and inflammatory, then please do. I have never claimed to be THE authoritative expert on cheap go-kart parts. It might be possible that you're right, and that the moving side of the drive-pulley should be to the engine side on some kits. I didn't do it that way because my kit didn't seem to work that way. The installation method I demonstrated in this video worked exactly as it should for my kit. No clunking or chattering. No soft engagements. No belt twisting or jumping. Just smooth parallel operation as you described. And it does this through the RPM range, even when powering my 1300 lb dragon-trike uphill. I've demonstrated this in my videos. Please keep in mind, I have stated many times in the comments that I am installing a generic knock-off Chinese-made kit. I bought it from a vendor on Amazon that also sold knock-off boat stereos. And he probably bought the kit on Alibaba. My kit is not a Comet or any other known branded-manufacturer. So there is no manufacturer to call for this type of kit. If you were able to find a manufacturer to call (or five), none of them made THIS kit. And theirs may work a different way. One guy that commented a few months ago that his kit had the output sprocket on the engine side of the mounting plate. That's not even possible with my kit. His was from a different manufacturer. And based on other comments I've received, I believe there are more than 5 different designs out there. But most of the commenters are using this type. So my video is relevant and correct for them.
If you still disagree with anything I've said in this comment, you're welcome to make a video demonstrating how you installed your kit. I really would like to see your installation and I'd like to see it in action. Because I'm curious to know how your kit gets the same results as mine (or RedBeard's or anybody else's) but with a different installation method? There's gotta be something different between the two kits. I'm wondering what that is. If you can share that, it might help folks that have your type of kit.
Actually I use voice to text and that was not what it was supposed to say what it was supposed to say is you all and I will say this again you are completely and utterly wrong I have contacted five different manufacturers on these torque converters the torque converter fat part goes towards the motor always by installing it the wrong way you cause premature wear of the belt and parts the procedure is incorrect and will cause an alignment of belt
Based on your comments, I'm certain that I will not change your mind on what you believe to be "the only correct installation method". I've lived long enough to know that people who emphatically insist "they're right and that everyone else is completely wrong" cannot be convinced otherwise. Especially with words. However, extraordinary claims demand extraordinary proof. Please post a video demonstrating your installation method and your kit. The rest of us would like to see what you're doing differently, and how your kit works. Please also include in your video which manufacturers you called, and each of their specific phone numbers so we can call those manufacturers and verify. Thanks.
I didn't see you put the key in the crank
I find it interesting you and I both are into model aircraft as well as into the 212 with torque converter! I am doing a mini bike not a go kart! Thanks, I found your video very helpful!
Thanks. That means a lot to me. I'm glad that it made your day just a little bit better. I personally still can't believe that this video has been viewed 45,000 times! When I started making these videos, I honestly thought it was just going to be my Mom! If I had known it was going to be so many people, I would have tried a little harder.
Great video. I have seen people have prolly with the brass bushing locking up the clutch and they recommend not putting the bushing on. Have you had any problems like this?
Whats the bolt length on the driver pulley? Videos ive seen have said to get a 2 inch one for the predator 212, but it seems to be too short
2" worked for me with the spacer and washer stack I used. But if 2" is too short for your motor, get a 2-1/2" and cut it down as needed to fit your application.
@doktorscottdiabolical oh, I was actually just putting the pacman washer on backwards, so the flange wasn't inside the shaft and was spacing it too much. Embarrassing! But thanks for your response.
why would one use a 35 or 40 chain? what is the difference, advantages, and disadvantages?
#35 chain is narrower, lighter, and has a shorter pitch (shorter links) than #40. That allows all of the components in the drivetrain (sprockets, shafts, etc) to be lighter and often smaller than #40 components. For a single-seat go kart, #35 is plenty strong, and is generally easier to work with. I'm using #40 because 1) I originally needed the additional strength to handle the torque of the human-powered drivetrain 2) I was already using #40 in the human-powered drivetrain and had components and tools to work with it 3) SMOG is a parade float with a top speed of 5 mph. I'm not really concerned with weight savings. If I were building a go kart where space and weight were an issue, I'd probably use #35.
I had to add so many washers to align them my bolt wont reach
Dose this convertor fit on Coleman ct200 u? also do you have to get engine riser for clearance?
I do not see any output shaft...
What size bolt did you use for the clutch out of your own collection? I've broken 3 bolts off so far while driving the kart.. I believe now with your help it was because of a off line pulley set up. I used a flat bar and I needed another washer to line them up.
The stainless steel bolt that threads into the crankshaft in this video is nominally 2" long. It actually measures 1-15/16" from the underside of the cap to the end of the bolt. That's what worked with the setup and washer stack that I used in the video. Your kit and setup may be different. The thread standard on my motor is 5/16"-24 tpi (SAE fine). BUT, that's for a Predator 212 sold in the USA. I would expect that in every other part of the world, the crankshaft would be tapped for a metric thread standard.
My only FAULT with this clutch is :All those sealed bearings ! how long will they last? i want use on daily driver bicycle.
Those SEALED bearings are BEST for your use
Can I make one of this at home
do you have low speed series for that kind of motor....
These converters engage around 1800 rpm. So to get a lower rpm output, you need reduction sprockets after the TAV. SMOG uses a 4-stage reduction. Axle speed is 17 rpm max. I have a video about it.
Hey mate got a question.. I’m getting a 6.5 motor with a 19mm shaft..will 3/ 4 fit on with the torque converter with 19mm shaft?
Converting mm to bananas... 19mm = .748" so it "should". But... you won't really know until you try. All of the components on my drive pulley assembly had a pretty sloppy fit. And the kits are made in China, so maybe they're actually 19mm kits marketed to us Yankees as 3/4"?
So this mechanism has its own clutch already? I was going to try and install a clutch to go to a torque converter
Yes. The design of the TAV allows it to act as both clutch and constantly variable transmission. And, it will outperform go kart centrifugal clutches.
@@doktorscottdiabolical that’s probably my favorite part now lol I’m gonna buy one but probably change the springs I want it to engage earlier. I was also wondering can you change the gear to the other side of the pulley on the non-driven end? My sprocket aligns basically to the end of my engine shaft almost exactly and this is offsetting me 2-3 inches
On my kit I cannot change the location of the sprocket. It might be possible to re-design, but that would take a lot of machining and would still probably fail under load. I've heard of a kit that has the output chain sprocket on the engine side of the driven shaft. But I've never seen it.
Where does a guy buy just the machined spacer & bolt to secure the pulley to the shaft of the engine? I bought a 30 series to mount to the Predator 212. The spacer I have now is about 1/4” too long, so need a shorter one. Any help would be great! Thank you! Very useful video!
Good question! If you're in the US, I would try McMaster-Carr or Granger first. Look for something like "unthreaded spacer" or "shaft bushing". You might also try an online bearing & chain shop. I've had good luck with The Big Bearing Store. If you've got a GOOD local hardware or farm supply store (the kind that has an entire isle of just nuts and bolts), you might be able to find a few spacers/washers/nuts that you can stack up. Keep in mind that on a rotating shaft, thousandths of an inch count. Standard clearance of .005" is the thickness of a sheet of paper. Anything more (like the washer I used) will introduce additional vibration and wear. IDEALLY you would determine exactly how long your spacer needs to be. Then you would find a guy with a lathe or take it to a machine shop and have the spacer faced down to the correct length. Do you know any local kart racers, drag racers, retired machinists? They may be able to point you toward a friendly shop. If all else fails, clamp your spacer in a vise, cut it off a little long with a hacksaw, then carefully file it down to size with a mill file. That method sux, but it can work if you're patient and careful. I personally intend to turn a new spacer in the mini-lathe once I have the engine location and vibration issues worked out. But that's going to be a while. I got stuck rebuilding my back yard deck this summer.
Ok! Thank you for the reply! Good info!
@@brentd3443 Saw a video where the guy said he uses copper pipe as spacers and said works great. Just cut to whatever size spacing you need.
EXCELLENT idea, I've use PVC & CVP plastic pipe for some quickie setups @@ChristopherJones16
is the belt slipping on low speed? seems pretty loose when on low speed. I notice it the plate is squeezing it when it spin at high speed.
Yes, but it's designed to. That's how this type of torque converter works. As RPM increases, centrifugal (centripetal, whatever) force causes the weights to move outward. These cam the two halves of the cone-shaped pulleys together, engaging and driving the belt, and also increasing the effective diameter of the pulleys and thus the drive ratio. This happens automatically and is self-regulating depending on engine rpm and load. If I filmed SMOG going uphill, you would see the pulley sides move apart as load increased and RPM decreased (that's what the springs do). That would decrease the drive ratio and have the same effect as shifting into a lower gear in a manual transmission. The idea is that engine rpm remains constant for a given power setting. It's not perfect, but it does an effective job.
@@doktorscottdiabolical thanks bro. I really appreciate the thorough explanation.
Get you a Honda CB 750-4 , that will make it go ?
Hello. On this video what is the outside diameter of the drive pulley. Looking for a cvt set up like this but need a certain diameter for clearance. Thank you.
On my kit, the largest diameter on the drive-pulley assembly is the outer cover. It is 4.900" or 124.5mm.
Can that black shaft go through the opposite way for bicycle 🚲 chain to torque converter? They say get the 30 series but really don’t know 😅😂😂😂
Not on the kit I have. The bearings are different sizes on the left and right. And the shaft outer diameters are "stepped" to fit. So the shaft only fits one way. Also, the plate in my kit is only machined flat on one side. So it can't really be "flipped over" either. I've heard of a kit that has the output sprocket on the "engine-side" of the plate, i.e. not sandwiched between the plate and pulley. But I've never seen one.
Damn good 👍
Hey brother. I'm trying to build a motorized bicycle with a preditor 212. I need help finding a place to order the tourqe converter and sprocket kit. And stuff. Any suggestions?
I got my TAV on Amazon a few years ago. There are lots of sellers, mostly selling the exact same Chinese kit they bought wholesale. Do your homework, and try to find a not-so-scummy one. FYI: putting a 212cc engine in a conventional bicycle will probably require a lot of custom fabrication. Especially to the rear hub. It can be done, but it ain't easy. You're not going to find a kit for it. Also... vibration. LOTS of vibration.
The only things Not address on here is wet torque vs dry and using thread locker, it has changed in the 46 years sense I went through Tech school, and there is a whole industry out there that uses SS hardware in aluminum castings, the outboard and inboard manufacturers.
Discussing torque procedures and thread-lockers is like discussing glue... or religion. Everybody's got an opinion. My best advice regarding the Predator motors is "soft alloy, small motor, take it easy with the wrench".
Should be a washer between the mounting plate and the sprocket.
I have a quick question, I have a Realtree 200 mini bike that I bought from Walmart customer returned it Walmart gave sold it to me at 50% off. So I brought it home and looking around I removed the spark to to see it and I noticed when I pulled to start the engine with the plug off, oil was coming out is that Normal or did I get a lemon.
Assuming oil was coming out of the spark plug hole... not necessarily anything wrong. Oil may have been added to the top end of the cylinder by the mfg as a corrosion preventative. Oil may also have seeped past the piston rings if the bike was sitting upside down or at an odd angle for more than a few minutes. That much oil (less than a tablespoon full) will burn off. You shouldn't see any more oil than that above the piston. With the ignition off, try pulling the motor through a few revolutions. If it doesn't lock up, turn on the ignition and fuel and try starting it. It'll probably smoke like a train for a few seconds. If it keeps on smoking after a minute or more, then there may be internal damage like a broken piston ring or broken valve stem, etc.
Will the 212 cc strong enough for a club car golf cart?
I don't have any experience with that combination. But, it's more than enough for SMOG, and he weighs 1320 lbs.
Did you ever try to install the converter cover? I have the same setup and the cover rubs on the belt causing them to shred...
No, I haven't tried yet. In my application, it's not really necessary. My plan is to eventually enclose (or at least partially enclose) the engine with soundproofing. If I were installing this on a go-kart though, especially one used by kids, I'd definitely be installing a guard of some sort. Mt Dad had a bad experience with a go-kart pulley when he was 10, and he still had the scars 30 years later.
So how do you get to the carburetor on the 212 stage 1 predator motor cause there’s mud all in mine from when I went through the mud caped in there should I say
To be honest, I had to watch someone else's video for that. I've only torn down a 212 carb once. And that was on my generator after it sat for a year and the metering needle stuck shut. Dunno about mud. Parade floats generally don't get very muddy.