Thank you JW, that pretty much explains and confirms my thoughts that the 30 series I'm working on can't handle the power of the engine combined with the weight of the kart. Thank you for replying back to me.
There are a lot of videos out there on tuning GY6 type CVT's but I have not seen many on the Comet torque converters, so this is good information. I don't think most people understand how they work or how dramatically proper tuning will change the performance of their machine. While I don't agree with you regarding the bushing you throw away, I can see why getting stuck in high gear would suck. I think that the issue is simply that the bushing is stretching itself out over time and fits loose on the shaft and becomes tight on the sleeve. I would replace it not just eliminate it.
Great vid . I had a keyed sleeve on the driver break into pieces. Since I have the upgraded flywheel I may just put a juggernaut on it and lose the gov.. unless I can buy that sleeve sold separately
Great video! Do you know what the thread pitch/bolt for the 4 bolts that holds the backer plate to the engine. The ones you said don’t over tighten and they will strip
Just a note on the comment "you can use a regular washer" on the primary. I had a weak washer that wore out and spun the outside cover off sending the weights flying violently blew up my cover, but luckily missed me. I would not run one of these without that washer, that is just me because I don't want to get hit with flying metal.
Interesting, my oldest converter has only had a washer on it for at least 6 years or so and I haven’t had an issue. I usually get grade 8 washers in bulk though from tractor supply so they are pretty strong. How did the washer cause the failure? Did it collapse or did the bolt just come off?
I made a specialty washed out of a brass bushing, it wore through or the brass was soft enough for the clutch to push it and deform it. But ether way I would not trust a regular washer, I do run my bike somewhat harder than most. @@jwsbackyard6413
@@jwsbackyard6413Explain. My parts came flying off not long ago and I was wondering if it’s because the bolt was coming loose and I’m considering loctite or something for it.
Yeah as long as the bolt is in nothing should be able to fly off. Loctite may help but an impact wrench is pretty effective at keeping the bolt on. If you don’t have an impact you can use a rubber strap wrench to hold the driver why you torque the bolt down.
Son of a gun I asked a question on another video an I think you answered it with this one I believe I got my lock but too tight but on mine the bolt it self sticks threw 3/4 of a inch it is a used one so idk what cause of this is but I got it with nut all the way snug an nylon stop gone out of it. If I did stop where it was supposed to stop I don’t imagine 1/2 to 3/4 gap from back the nut to the face of the driven pully would be safe huh ?
I would personally just get it snug and use lock tite if the nylon is gone. The gap may not effect it though because a lot of people leave their clutches/sprockets float with some movement side to side to help the pulleys/sprockets stay aligned on their own.
Are both the TCs shown in this video the same? The one on the pink kart looks like it sits flat horizontal instead of at an angle like the other one. I need one that mounts flat like on the pink kart
I would like to put the final drive sprocket outside of the torque converter box for use on a bicycle with 79 cc engine but I can’t figure out how to do it with a pressed into that bearing
Just so I’m understanding what you mean. Are you trying to put the sprocket on the back side of the driven shaft or on the very end of the shaft on the outside of the driven pulley?
Gotcha, I’ve seen people push the shaft for the driven pulley through and mount the sprocket on the back side. The shaft has a lip preventing it from sliding one direction that you would have to deal with. Would likely have to change bearing at the front side of the backing plate.
What would make one of these grind. I bought an old go kart and ordered a new tc from Amazon and bought a new 212 and put it it all together ran fine for an hour or so but now the driver pulley won't engage and just makes a grinding noise. Any help would be really appreciated.
There is a larger spacer that needs to go behind the backing plate for the driver. If that spacer is missing it will grind on the bolt heads of the main backing plate. If that is on the inner sleeve for the driver could be in backwards. The sleeve has a stepped side that locks into outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked into that sleeve it may not engage. If all that is ok I would take the driver apart and make sure the weights and springs look ok.
No problem. I’d check the brass idle sleeve also; they are known to wedge themselves in the driver. I’ve also had a few occasions where the chain would rub the backing plate or the driven side when not spaced well.
I'm curious if you have an answer or maybe some possible solutions to a problem i'm having. I have a 30 series on a Kenbar cart where the spacing requires a much longer belt and I'm lucky to get 30 minutes before the belt wears down probably 30% of its surface. The only belt i've used so far is a genuine comet 203599, which still seems a tad loose, but the 203598 is too small and doesn't fit. Appreciate it.
I’m not sure if your set up would allow for it but I have slotted my engine mounts so that I can move my engine to get the belt tight. I have also used washers to lift the engine some to get some tension on the chain or belt when I didn’t have room to slide it forward/backwards. Other things to consider with the belt wear is the weight of the cart and gearing. My heavier karts go through belts fast. The 30 series really struggles to clamp the belt on my heavier karts. Also I’ve seen the 30 series struggle with really low gearing.
You don't have another choice if the 598 belt is too tight. The 599 belt is the longest belt for a 30 series. 598 is the second longest. Your spacing pully to pully is just in between these two belt sizes.
Comet has a variety of belts for the 30 series that can be order. They are more expensive than the two common sizes but there are a ton of sizes available.
I would bet that the inner collar is in backwards. The collar has a lip with two flat sides that locks into the outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked onto that lip it will wobble.
@jwsbackyard6413 I have a question for you. So I bought a riser for my son's go-kart. I went out and bought another chain cause, of course, now that the motor is higher, the chain wasn't going to fit. I got 10 feet of chain and just shortened it to where I needed it,but the chain is a little loose, and if I take another link out, it will be too short. So, do I need a different size chain or a different sprocket? The chain keeps popping off.
It really depends on gearing, weight of the kart, how much power the engine has etc. On a proper setup I’ve had them last years as long as they stay out of the elements. On my larger heavier karts they may last a few months.
Have quite a few predator 212s that are somewhere between 8 to 10hp. I have a tillotson that’s probably closer to 14 or 15hp. The 30 series have held up to those power ranges but the kart weight is really what has made the difference. On my heavier karts the 30 series slips.
I will be installing a 40 series and that should be good. Btw, are the bracket and jackshaft ( bearings) on the 30 and 40 series the same or is the 40 built stronger?
@@edmagee6818 I’m not sure about the bearings between the 30 and 40 series. The 40 will be able to handle a heavier kart and more power without slipping for sure. It is much heavier than the 30 so should have some more clamping force.
Ok thanks, you confirmed what i thought. I bought a 40 series today from BMI , it's already set up with the reverse spring. This go kart thing is a new experience for me,as I'm used to working on cars and trucks.
If the 40 isn’t strong enough they make a few that have stronger drivers but I’d expect the 40 will be a big improvement. The nice thing about small engine stuff compared to cars/trucks is the cost. The low cost really lets you experiment.
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Thank you JW, that pretty much explains and confirms my thoughts that the 30 series I'm working on can't handle the power of the engine combined with the weight of the kart.
Thank you for replying back to me.
This is a great video. I just wish I would of came across it when I first knew nothing about these! Great video brutha!
Thanks for this useful information i appreciate you
There are a lot of videos out there on tuning GY6 type CVT's but I have not seen many on the Comet torque converters, so this is good information. I don't think most people understand how they work or how dramatically proper tuning will change the performance of their machine.
While I don't agree with you regarding the bushing you throw away, I can see why getting stuck in high gear would suck. I think that the issue is simply that the bushing is stretching itself out over time and fits loose on the shaft and becomes tight on the sleeve. I would replace it not just eliminate it.
Thank you, great video
Awesome video 💪🏾💯
Great vid . I had a keyed sleeve on the driver break into pieces. Since I have the upgraded flywheel I may just put a juggernaut on it and lose the gov.. unless I can buy that sleeve sold separately
Yeah you can get it on eBay for about $10. A saw one listed under ‘hub driver’
Great video! Do you know what the thread pitch/bolt for the 4 bolts that holds the backer plate to the engine. The ones you said don’t over tighten and they will strip
The predator 212 use a 5/16-24. The kits usually come with metric bolts.
Just a note on the comment "you can use a regular washer" on the primary. I had a weak washer that wore out and spun the outside cover off sending the weights flying violently blew up my cover, but luckily missed me. I would not run one of these without that washer, that is just me because I don't want to get hit with flying metal.
Interesting, my oldest converter has only had a washer on it for at least 6 years or so and I haven’t had an issue. I usually get grade 8 washers in bulk though from tractor supply so they are pretty strong. How did the washer cause the failure? Did it collapse or did the bolt just come off?
I made a specialty washed out of a brass bushing, it wore through or the brass was soft enough for the clutch to push it and deform it.
But ether way I would not trust a regular washer, I do run my bike somewhat harder than most. @@jwsbackyard6413
Ah I see. Yeah I would bet the brass was the main factor in its failure.
@@jwsbackyard6413Explain. My parts came flying off not long ago and I was wondering if it’s because the bolt was coming loose and I’m considering loctite or something for it.
Yeah as long as the bolt is in nothing should be able to fly off. Loctite may help but an impact wrench is pretty effective at keeping the bolt on. If you don’t have an impact you can use a rubber strap wrench to hold the driver why you torque the bolt down.
Очень полезное видео. Спасибо ! Кстати с бронзовый втулкой я не смог одеть ремень, он коротковат. Я эту втулку тоже выбросил
What size bolts did you use to mount the backing plate to the engine? The ones that came with my kit only goes in 1-2 turns and stops.
For the predator 212 they are 5/16-24
Thanks for the vid, what size is the large nut on the rear driven pulley?
I haven’t measured it myself but Comets website says 5/8-16. Most eBay/amazon 30 series copy the Comet so I’d expect they use the same size.
Son of a gun I asked a question on another video an I think you answered it with this one I believe I got my lock but too tight but on mine the bolt it self sticks threw 3/4 of a inch it is a used one so idk what cause of this is but I got it with nut all the way snug an nylon stop gone out of it. If I did stop where it was supposed to stop I don’t imagine 1/2 to 3/4 gap from back the nut to the face of the driven pully would be safe huh ?
I would personally just get it snug and use lock tite if the nylon is gone. The gap may not effect it though because a lot of people leave their clutches/sprockets float with some movement side to side to help the pulleys/sprockets stay aligned on their own.
Are both the TCs shown in this video the same? The one on the pink kart looks like it sits flat horizontal instead of at an angle like the other one. I need one that mounts flat like on the pink kart
Yes they are both the same. You can mount the torque converter in any orientation and it will work the same.
I would like to put the final drive sprocket outside of the torque converter box for use on a bicycle with 79 cc engine but I can’t figure out how to do it with a pressed into that bearing
Just so I’m understanding what you mean. Are you trying to put the sprocket on the back side of the driven shaft or on the very end of the shaft on the outside of the driven pulley?
Yes I want to put it on a bicycle without having to hang the motor way off to the right side
Gotcha, I’ve seen people push the shaft for the driven pulley through and mount the sprocket on the back side. The shaft has a lip preventing it from sliding one direction that you would have to deal with. Would likely have to change bearing at the front side of the backing plate.
What would make one of these grind. I bought an old go kart and ordered a new tc from Amazon and bought a new 212 and put it it all together ran fine for an hour or so but now the driver pulley won't engage and just makes a grinding noise. Any help would be really appreciated.
There is a larger spacer that needs to go behind the backing plate for the driver. If that spacer is missing it will grind on the bolt heads of the main backing plate. If that is on the inner sleeve for the driver could be in backwards. The sleeve has a stepped side that locks into outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked into that sleeve it may not engage. If all that is ok I would take the driver apart and make sure the weights and springs look ok.
@jwsbackyard6413 ok thank you and yeah all that looks good. I'll have too take it apart and see what they look like. Thank you for your response.
No problem. I’d check the brass idle sleeve also; they are known to wedge themselves in the driver. I’ve also had a few occasions where the chain would rub the backing plate or the driven side when not spaced well.
I'm curious if you have an answer or maybe some possible solutions to a problem i'm having. I have a 30 series on a Kenbar cart where the spacing requires a much longer belt and I'm lucky to get 30 minutes before the belt wears down probably 30% of its surface. The only belt i've used so far is a genuine comet 203599, which still seems a tad loose, but the 203598 is too small and doesn't fit. Appreciate it.
I’m not sure if your set up would allow for it but I have slotted my engine mounts so that I can move my engine to get the belt tight. I have also used washers to lift the engine some to get some tension on the chain or belt when I didn’t have room to slide it forward/backwards. Other things to consider with the belt wear is the weight of the cart and gearing. My heavier karts go through belts fast. The 30 series really struggles to clamp the belt on my heavier karts. Also I’ve seen the 30 series struggle with really low gearing.
You don't have another choice if the 598 belt is too tight. The 599 belt is the longest belt for a 30 series. 598 is the second longest. Your spacing pully to pully is just in between these two belt sizes.
Comet has a variety of belts for the 30 series that can be order. They are more expensive than the two common sizes but there are a ton of sizes available.
@@jwsbackyard6413 Yes. There are 12 sizes according to the Comet doc.
My front clutch is wobbling while it moves how do I fix that
I would bet that the inner collar is in backwards. The collar has a lip with two flat sides that locks into the outer cover. If the outer cover isn’t locked onto that lip it will wobble.
I see you lifted the motor up to make it fit.Looks like I'm going to have to do the same thing
Yeah engine risers are almost a necessity in any application where the mounting plate is low and using a torque converter.
@@jwsbackyard6413 Where did you get at?
@@micayiah1get the riser? I made it out of some square tubing from Lowe’s or Home Depot
@jwsbackyard6413 Ok cool man. I really appreciate it!!
@jwsbackyard6413 I have a question for you. So I bought a riser for my son's go-kart. I went out and bought another chain cause, of course, now that the motor is higher, the chain wasn't going to fit. I got 10 feet of chain and just shortened it to where I needed it,but the chain is a little loose, and if I take another link out, it will be too short. So, do I need a different size chain or a different sprocket? The chain keeps popping off.
Would I be able too do the same with a mini bike?
Yeah it would work the same way
Approximately how long should a belt last?
It really depends on gearing, weight of the kart, how much power the engine has etc. On a proper setup I’ve had them last years as long as they stay out of the elements. On my larger heavier karts they may last a few months.
What's the length of that engine shaft?
61.7mm or just under 2.5 inches
@@jwsbackyard6413Hey jw u got an email I can message you at? I would greatly appreciate it
What is the HP of your go-kart engines?
I have a Duramax 440cc 18hp.
Have quite a few predator 212s that are somewhere between 8 to 10hp. I have a tillotson that’s probably closer to 14 or 15hp. The 30 series have held up to those power ranges but the kart weight is really what has made the difference. On my heavier karts the 30 series slips.
I will be installing a 40 series and that should be good. Btw, are the bracket and jackshaft ( bearings) on the 30 and 40 series the same or is the 40 built stronger?
@@edmagee6818 I’m not sure about the bearings between the 30 and 40 series. The 40 will be able to handle a heavier kart and more power without slipping for sure. It is much heavier than the 30 so should have some more clamping force.
Ok thanks, you confirmed what i thought. I bought a 40 series today from BMI , it's already set up with the reverse spring.
This go kart thing is a new experience for me,as I'm used to working on cars and trucks.
If the 40 isn’t strong enough they make a few that have stronger drivers but I’d expect the 40 will be a big improvement. The nice thing about small engine stuff compared to cars/trucks is the cost. The low cost really lets you experiment.
change red spring
Can you swap out the gear sprocket on the driven pulley side for more top end speed ?
Yes, you would just need a larger sprocket(one with more teeth). You would sacrifice some torque though.