Iam impressed how mean this thing sounds! 20hp! What most dont realize or understand is what 20hp is like on a small cart or mini bike. My 1000cc ironhead makes 52 and weighs about 850lbs. Never thought of using cerekote on the valves and piston top. Learn something new everyday, Bro-ham I love your channel. Thanks for all the hard work feeding your subscribers killer content every week.
@@RedBeardsGarage I kinda wonder what your thoughts would be on something like a supercharged 70cc engine build. I hope to try to push similar power on my Honda CT70 that I've got up on my channel
RB, from old guy, from days of Ruppman. The 70's. This is by far the best tutorial I have ever seen on small engine HP upgrade. If I only had this in the 70's with the parts, I would have been the coolest kid in my Detroit neighborhood. Damn good job son. This visual experience will inspire some burgering young gearhead that he "can do it". Possibly inspiring him enough to stay focused and out of trouble. Great Job. God Bless!
Thanks to this video I was that young buck. I recently turned 20 and just finished this build and my friend he did do amazing. I can't wait to continue on this path. It is so much fun to put time and effort into something I truly enjoy.
Back when I lived in Florida I had a cheap old minibike that my parents bought me for my birthday and it came with a REALLY hard starting 5 HP B&S engine and I ripped it off, my buddy had bought a brand new Sun Racing Engines 26 HP single cylinder engine for his go-kart and never used it, so I bought it from him REAL cheap. I put it on my minibike and that thing was ridiculously fast. I was only like 12 back then and I'm 38 now, but I'll never forget that thing. My mom decided she wanted to ride it back when it had the B&S engine on it and she came FLYING around the house on it and rode it into a row of hedges that we had on the side of our house and straight into a railroad tie that separated our hedges from the empty field next to our house and she got folded. Turns out the throttle got stuck wide open and she couldn't shut it off...lmao
When I was about the same age 12 a friend down the street had one of them basic lawnmower engine mini-bike frames. It had a Hodaka Ace 100 engine in it. I think it went about 60mph. His older brother had a Hodaka 125cc motorcycle they called them Combat Wombat. They were full-fledged 2 stroke race bikes. The kind you can't let idle or they would foul the plug. Always had to keep reving the engine. This was in the early 70s. Some engines had two spark plugs. When you fouled one, you pull the wire off and put it on the other plug. That's because it was so common to happen. LOL 😅
A little advice from 45+ years of building engines. Running bolts dry into aluminum, (or anything, really) like when you checked rod bearing clearance, is asking for trouble - from incorrect torque squeeze to galled threads. It's good practice to fully torque the rod bolt fasteners as few times as possible - meaning, only torque them to full torque on the mockup install to check clearance, and on final install - 20in/lbs is plenty for the installs to check dipper, rod, cam, block clearances, etc. Running them to max torque every time puts unnecessary wear on the threads and stretch cycles on the bolts. You normally don't want to run the ring gaps top/bottom - this puts them on the thrust sides of the block/piston. They seal better and wear less putting the gaps on the sides of the pistons just above or below the pin hole.
Always the “iN mY 1000 yEaRs oF fiXiNg eNgInEs” it’s not a fucking f1 car where you rebuild it after 1 race. It’s a backyard machine this seriously only applies to min maxing not this…
And there's always the "I can't get a point across without insults and profanity". There are basic assembly practices that apply across the board, whether it's F1 or a backyard Predator. A galled fastener is just a cheaper failure on the Predator.
@@willieshaw2522 100%!! Some people are simply too stupid to understand the theory of "if you're going to do it, why not just do it correctly". You're attempting to speak common sense to people who probably use an impact on their wheels and wonder wtf their brakes vibrate. Good advice, don't let one dipshit with zero sense stop you from contributing your 0.02, sir! 🍻🍻🍻
Awesome job buddy,I enjoy your all your videos.. I have the Predator 212 hemi. I've got it on a Ct200u-ex. Bought the bike used with engine locked from no oil. Bought the 212 about 2weeks ago and all I've done is mount it. Haven't even rode it yet. I've ordered some upgrades and so far all I've received is my torque converter. Thanks for all your time you give to making sure we the little people know what to do to make our bikes a little better than the rest!
Hey brother I just want to say thank you for your videos, these have helped me purchase the right engine for me and it’s extremely helpful for the builds on the Max Performance I picked up. Awesome work Sir! Thank you again! I’ll continue to share your vids.
I love this step by step build! So informative! This video is sure to get up there in views as im sure anyone building this engine will look to this video for instructions.
Man you got me on this, I snap my 212 cam shaft today on my wood chipper. I might have to go get this engine and rebuild my old one if it's not chew to bad. I was thinking diesel but I'm doing this first
Man this stuff is so great to watch I have the money to buy the stuff but just don't have the tools or the time to put them together, with life throwing blows left and right this year I don't even have the time to ride my stock minibike, my downtime I'm working with RBG playing in the background you guys rock!
I'm curious how long the coating will last on top of the piston and the inside of the head and valves. Be nice to see ya pull the head after a few hours of run time and see how it's held up.
Hey red really enjoy your channel, i never use any cerakot on anything so i don't know much about it, anyhow seems like that would have messed up the valve seats. There's a good way to check and make sure there seating correctly, put your value springs on and then spray the bottom on the head around the valves with soapy water, then take a blow gun with a long tip and put it in the and blow through(90 100 psi) good value job you won't have any blow by. I hope this helps, thank for all the how to videos 👍👍
Your mechanic skills are real professional. You just do everything right no matter how long it may take. I’ve seen some guys just not have the patience and rush the build. Awesome work man. New subscriber here.
I just finished my engine build thanks tot his tutorial and i am so grateful. The detail was impeccable and well planned. I greatly appreciate how much time and effort you put into it. I definitely plan on building a vtwin now that i have the 224 running. Id love to show you my project thanks to you. The relief of it running as well as it did is all thanks to you. One question though, with your vaccum lines why not just run the one instead of 3? I get one is for pressure relief and one is for fuel. But why the 2nd pressure relief?
There are others doing builds. But none this extreme and in depth of what problems to look for and how to solve them. I waited for yours after seeing a couple of videos that just isn’t as good.
What impresses me is 20hp from an air cooled pushrod engine Sure, lots of motorcycles makes 20hp from 150cc, but they usually use DOHC water cooled engines
This is quite the build. I don't know if I could of tackled something like that. I think, personally, I'd have gotten the Predator 670 V-Twin and called it a day. But that's just me. I'm lazy like that.
Dang, that’s a cool little engine. That cerakote is pretty awesome too. I’m probably rebuilding my oil cooled GSXR engine this year (if I get my shed built) and they’re a ridiculously hot engine. I’m going to look into cerakote for the pistons, valves, cases and cylinder block.
I'm building a 224 and I'm using champion rockers. I want to get billet retainers to switch to automotive style with keepers but I'm not sure if I need to run lash caps on both sides? Or not at all? Any info would be greatly appreciated! You're channel is one of the best tools a small engine builder can have. Can't thank you enough man just for giving me the confidence to open up a predator and doing internal work. Thank you
Thanks for the video's. I think Im going to build a super engine for my son's Cycle Kart. Normaly the club runs 5 hp 212, but my boy is big, and I want him to be able to complete with the other Cycle Karts. Thanks again,
Wish you would put a loop in the exhaust system behind that cover. It would really give a deep tone to it. Would take some cutting on the old briggs racing exhaust but it would sound so good 🤣👍.
@@bradensmith888 look up a briggs and Stratton hoop racing exhaust they give low end torque and make predator engines sound way different. But modification is required to get them to fit because how the exhaust ports are different angle from briggs to clone engines
Curious to know what the compression ratio comes out to with that much material take off the head + flat top piston? 🤔 still on pump gas or is race gas needed at this point?
I did a non hemi predator build,arc flywheel - rod - mod2 265 cam Mikuni carb- pipe n swear I double Hp,n governor deleat,had to make wheelie bar because at 20 mph just gas it n your riding a wheelie 🔥💕
Just curious about something, is there any issues with balance , after you having to clearance the crank,rod , and cam ?? I thought those would all be balanced from manufacturers? Just curious
Man you are such a expert..I think I missed when you put the piston and rod in witch way it goes..( I know but did u say ?) And when you showed the lash cap did you say what is and what is for ??? I am not judging you..my grandson 10 years old watch the video and asked me..your so good he says he can build one to just by your instructions.... thank you with all respect sir
Rod is oriented with the dipper on the cap at the bottom of the crankcase. With that orientation, the piston is installed with the arrow pointing down to the bottom of the cylinder. Hope that helps you. Now go build a screamer.
The lash caps go on the end of the valves. They are hardened and will take the pounding the rocker arms will give them. I was more concerned with all the "clearance work done" That is a lot of grinding and not for the faint of heart.
I knew witch way it installed ...was just trying to point out the way it went so RB could add it for the inexperienced builder RB is a damm good instructor just thought he missed that part. ....from now on I will keep my mouth shut
@@toddmeanie6003 I'm sorry if I came off the wrong way. I genuinely thought you didn't know and were asking. It's cool. As for what I said about building a screamer. I was referring to you and your grandson getting out into the garage and putting one together. Make some power dude. Small engines are a great way to learn hot rodding at an early age.
I’m late on watching this video and am not trying to put anyone down or start an argument but from what I’ve learned from building and working on many performance engines grinding the block for clearance would be the best option when you grind on a rod crank or cam that messes with the balance and could cause vibrations and possibly failures just something to think about.
@@byker283 all engines "huff and puff" as the piston/pistons move up and down so the crankcase is subject to constantly changing positive and negative pressure; particularly at high rpm. I had blow-by issues with a bored out VW flat four, ran a piece of tubing from valve cover to valve cover and cured it. This 224cc IS vented to the atmosphere, straight up and has a filter on it; I route mine to a "catch can" on my BT200X an early 224cc built at 72mm x 55mm.
@@frederickwoods5943 I understand that, mine is vented as well, but why put it back into the valve cover just to vent it out of the cover? Mine comes out of block to a vent on the frame with a 2 foot piece of hose. And why is their 2 vents coming out of the side cover. Once should be sufficient.
@@byker283 I agree. I've seen guys "vent" from the side cover right to the rocker cover. Are they trying to get extra oil into the upper valve train? The sump area of the block is already vented through the block and head into the upper valve train internally. Extra venting could just be done from the top of the rocker cover into the atmosphere. Or like you have done with an open vent right out of the block with a long hose.
Awesome video!!!. I don't know Predator motors. What was the hp to start with?. Looks like a really good build with really nice parts. The only thing I didn't like was the grinding for clearance part. No way to do it and keep balance in your home shop. How much did this build cost?.
Dying to know how to get my hands on those billet cup washers and hardware! Building my 224 right now and those are by far my favorite touch. If there’s anyway you could let me know sizes and where you got them that’d be great! The link in description doesn’t work thanks again
You wouldn't happen to know of a readily available belt drive transaxle that would work for a golf cart? I bought a duromax 440 to swap it but it's a 2 stroke ezgo so it uses the motor/generator to operate reverse. I've got a OG dingo and thought about robbing the open diff out of it with a reverse box but I'm torn. Excellent work as always man keep it up. Hopefully you guys make a trip out to Johnson City this season. Buffalo Mountain is awesome in a SxS.
Curious if you gave feedback to the manufacturers of the cam, connecting rod on those clearance issues… most don’t have that cutaway hemi cover to see those interference issues and would have had some head scratching to find where it was hitting… thanks!
very impressive build and i enjoyed the video. Did any of that grinding mess with the balancing of the engine or does it not really matter that much with an engine of this size?
RB please explain the CCV system I see the check valve on the valve cover keeping negative pressure up top inviting more oil mist up that way and removing pressure but why the two large clear hoses? Is this aiding in the transfer to the head?
I can understand the build if a person were to do it in stages and can appreciate all the cool parts but in the end you have around 20hp for 2K in an engine that I would not consider reliable compared to other options for the same money.
hey, I'm in the process of building a 224 right now and have seen a few things about needing to mess with the timing key for the flywheel. just wondering if you just used the stock key or had to find one that worked?
First of all.. im really impressed with the build quality you do for all your project.. :-) How much would an engine like this cost after the upgrade..? Can it compete with the high performance CT70 style engines where a 20hp engine cost around $1000..
'We're going to rebuild a predator engine to make if faster... so first we're going to replace the cam, carburetor, piston, connecting rod, crank, block and jug with aftermarket parts. Then we're to use an aftermarket head and port it and replace the valves, valve springs and lifters. walla, we made our predator more powerful.'
enjoyed and learned .i got a question can you put the magnito generator for lights on a 224 i did on the 112 but don"t know if i can on the 224 never even tried until i know for sure
Hi I'm building a 224, I'm just wondering if the parts I got for it wont blow it up, what I already have on it is a governor delete, oil censor delete, cast aluminum fly wheel rated for 10k rpm, billet rod, 18lb valve springs and a mikuni clone round slide. I ordered a .01 head gasket, 22lb valve springs, and a 265 hot cam. ill do the necessary clearancing, but I'm just wondering if I need anything else for my setup to run reliably.
Hey, RBG, how would this motor survive being used to push a small boat with a long tail mud motor kit attached? I've seen a couple of people {perhaps even yourself?) say that stock motors work best for this purpose, and that performance-built motors used like this don't live for very long . Apparently it is because of substantially higher sustained RPM's being involved. 🤔 Any thoughts? Thanks for the video. 👍
Iam impressed how mean this thing sounds! 20hp! What most dont realize or understand is what 20hp is like on a small cart or mini bike. My 1000cc ironhead makes 52 and weighs about 850lbs. Never thought of using cerekote on the valves and piston top. Learn something new everyday, Bro-ham I love your channel. Thanks for all the hard work feeding your subscribers killer content every week.
I appreciate the encouragement! I'm excited to have found cerakote, too!
Your iron head makes a butt load of torque though. My 250cc Single motorbike makes 22hp.
@@RedBeardsGarage Are you ever gonna do a video on the vangaurd 993cc v-twins?
@@RedBeardsGarage I kinda wonder what your thoughts would be on something like a supercharged 70cc engine build. I hope to try to push similar power on my Honda CT70 that I've got up on my channel
Po urU
RB, from old guy, from days of Ruppman.
The 70's. This is by far the best tutorial I have ever seen on small engine HP upgrade.
If I only had this in the 70's with the parts, I would have been the coolest kid in my Detroit neighborhood.
Damn good job son. This visual experience will inspire some burgering young gearhead that he "can do it".
Possibly inspiring him enough to stay focused and out of trouble.
Great Job.
God Bless!
Thanks to this video I was that young buck. I recently turned 20 and just finished this build and my friend he did do amazing. I can't wait to continue on this path. It is so much fun to put time and effort into something I truly enjoy.
Back when I lived in Florida I had a cheap old minibike that my parents bought me for my birthday and it came with a REALLY hard starting 5 HP B&S engine and I ripped it off, my buddy had bought a brand new Sun Racing Engines 26 HP single cylinder engine for his go-kart and never used it, so I bought it from him REAL cheap. I put it on my minibike and that thing was ridiculously fast. I was only like 12 back then and I'm 38 now, but I'll never forget that thing. My mom decided she wanted to ride it back when it had the B&S engine on it and she came FLYING around the house on it and rode it into a row of hedges that we had on the side of our house and straight into a railroad tie that separated our hedges from the empty field next to our house and she got folded. Turns out the throttle got stuck wide open and she couldn't shut it off...lmao
These things make the best memories! 😂
When I was about the same age 12 a friend down the street had one of them basic lawnmower engine mini-bike frames. It had a Hodaka Ace 100 engine in it. I think it went about 60mph. His older brother had a Hodaka 125cc motorcycle they called them Combat Wombat. They were full-fledged 2 stroke race bikes. The kind you can't let idle or they would foul the plug. Always had to keep reving the engine. This was in the early 70s. Some engines had two spark plugs. When you fouled one, you pull the wire off and put it on the other plug. That's because it was so common to happen. LOL 😅
A little advice from 45+ years of building engines. Running bolts dry into aluminum, (or anything, really) like when you checked rod bearing clearance, is asking for trouble - from incorrect torque squeeze to galled threads. It's good practice to fully torque the rod bolt fasteners as few times as possible - meaning, only torque them to full torque on the mockup install to check clearance, and on final install - 20in/lbs is plenty for the installs to check dipper, rod, cam, block clearances, etc. Running them to max torque every time puts unnecessary wear on the threads and stretch cycles on the bolts. You normally don't want to run the ring gaps top/bottom - this puts them on the thrust sides of the block/piston. They seal better and wear less putting the gaps on the sides of the pistons just above or below the pin hole.
SO TRUE DRAG RACER HERE N ENGINE BUILDER ALWAYS LUBE BOLTS N THE SURVICE THEY RIDE ON FOR TRUE TORK
That’s was some good info to be blessed with thanks man. I probably wouldn’t of gotten that anywhere else.
Always the “iN mY 1000 yEaRs oF fiXiNg eNgInEs” it’s not a fucking f1 car where you rebuild it after 1 race. It’s a backyard machine this seriously only applies to min maxing not this…
And there's always the "I can't get a point across without insults and profanity". There are basic assembly practices that apply across the board, whether it's F1 or a backyard Predator. A galled fastener is just a cheaper failure on the Predator.
@@willieshaw2522 100%!! Some people are simply too stupid to understand the theory of "if you're going to do it, why not just do it correctly". You're attempting to speak common sense to people who probably use an impact on their wheels and wonder wtf their brakes vibrate. Good advice, don't let one dipshit with zero sense stop you from contributing your 0.02, sir! 🍻🍻🍻
This is a next level build for sure, looks and sounds like a million bucks!
Thanks guys!
...but only costs half that.😘
Awesome job buddy,I enjoy your all your videos.. I have the Predator 212 hemi. I've got it on a Ct200u-ex. Bought the bike used with engine locked from no oil. Bought the 212 about 2weeks ago and all I've done is mount it. Haven't even rode it yet. I've ordered some upgrades and so far all I've received is my torque converter. Thanks for all your time you give to making sure we the little people know what to do to make our bikes a little better than the rest!
Thanks for the support! There's nothing wrong with starting the build process slow. Enjoy it!!
Sounds mean and looks good! My first build blew up a few mins ago and this vid is helping me cope haha.
That's a tough one!
@@RedBeardsGarage Do you sell anything you took off that engine? I need the carb and the exhaust.
Hey brother I just want to say thank you for your videos, these have helped me purchase the right engine for me and it’s extremely helpful for the builds on the Max Performance I picked up. Awesome work Sir! Thank you again! I’ll continue to share your vids.
I love this step by step build! So informative! This video is sure to get up there in views as im sure anyone building this engine will look to this video for instructions.
Great video!
As a certified mechanic, i would recommend this video
This was a great video! Super helpful to see the actual individual steps without it being a drone on howto. Keep up the great work!
Great Video. 10/10 for technical content, build quality, and video editing. You should teach other youtubers how to make great videos.
Man you got me on this, I snap my 212 cam shaft today on my wood chipper. I might have to go get this engine and rebuild my old one if it's not chew to bad. I was thinking diesel but I'm doing this first
I love the amount of horsepower in a small package, and it's rigidity.
WOW I DIDNT KNOW THEY MADE SO MANY AFTERMARKET PARTS FOR THEM, SOUNDS HEALTHY
Any honda 5hp-6.5-7hp clones accepts the predator 212 parts just have to choice the right ones thats all.
Awesome build. I do a dry run without piston rings and lube to check clearances.
Man this stuff is so great to watch I have the money to buy the stuff but just don't have the tools or the time to put them together, with life throwing blows left and right this year I don't even have the time to ride my stock minibike, my downtime I'm working with RBG playing in the background you guys rock!
Thanks for watching!
I'm curious how long the coating will last on top of the piston and the inside of the head and valves. Be nice to see ya pull the head after a few hours of run time and see how it's held up.
Great vid! I could only find two in stock anywhere close to me so I grabbed one today. I think I’ll grab the other one tomorrow after watching this!
Hey red really enjoy your channel, i never use any cerakot on anything so i don't know much about it, anyhow seems like that would have messed up the valve seats. There's a good way to check and make sure there seating correctly, put your value springs on and then spray the bottom on the head around the valves with soapy water, then take a blow gun with a long tip and put it in the and blow through(90 100 psi) good value job you won't have any blow by. I hope this helps, thank for all the how to videos 👍👍
That's exactly what my Tillotson 225 sounds like I swear Predator built this engine as competition
I definitely wouldn’t have ground on the crankshaft. You certainly threw it off balance there’s no doubt about that.
Should have at least taken the same amount off the other side to try and keep it close.
If your not watching red beard your living under a rock this dude is amazing the best content and details in his videos 🔥💯
naw that's like a 25hp or more 💯🔥 that thang is a MONSTER GREAT VIDEO
👊 Thanks!
I've been working on my vertical shaft motorcycle. Cant wait to get it souped up like that.
She's a ripper. Can't wait for the 459cc.
Yes me too. Currently waiting for rod and flywheel to be sourced, I cannot find pushrods for big blocks either. Out of stock always
Your mechanic skills are real professional. You just do everything right no matter how long it may take. I’ve seen some guys just not have the patience and rush the build. Awesome work man. New subscriber here.
Glad to have you!
19:35 I noticed from 19:35 to the glamour shots he switched the hose clamps to proper sizes without as much excess.
That would be really cool if the pullstart assembly was clear like acrylic and not black so you could see the bullet inside.. great work my friend! 🔥
I just finished my engine build thanks tot his tutorial and i am so grateful. The detail was impeccable and well planned. I greatly appreciate how much time and effort you put into it. I definitely plan on building a vtwin now that i have the 224 running. Id love to show you my project thanks to you. The relief of it running as well as it did is all thanks to you. One question though, with your vaccum lines why not just run the one instead of 3? I get one is for pressure relief and one is for fuel. But why the 2nd pressure relief?
Man I took 2 years of small engines and this step by step refreshed my memory so well, you're a good teacher.
Awesome job broseph. Especially like the list of tools. Thank you bud.
Another Great Build RBG 👏 Thanks for the Content it's very informative 👍👍
I appreciate the support!
Been waiting for this!! Awesome!
Can you go over pricing for a build like this? I’d also like to see you drill and tap the relief venti holes and install tubing
I always love your videos on the engine builds on the 224 I wish I can buy that Mini bike I love it
Man these engines are so fun and simple to work on if you wanna get into engines and whatnot, nice work though.
Just got one of these for a go kart. Cant wait for the build series!!
There are others doing builds. But none this extreme and in depth of what problems to look for and how to solve them. I waited for yours after seeing a couple of videos that just isn’t as good.
Thanks for watching!
That Ford sticker got me!! Subscribed right away!
Clear and precise, nice!
What impresses me is 20hp from an air cooled pushrod engine
Sure, lots of motorcycles makes 20hp from 150cc, but they usually use DOHC water cooled engines
This is quite the build. I don't know if I could of tackled something like that. I think, personally, I'd have gotten the Predator 670 V-Twin and called it a day. But that's just me. I'm lazy like that.
Fun to watch, but price as built: $1,853.62 (not including the cerakote). Yeah, that's never gonna happen.
Awesome video PLAAAAYA!!! You should do an engine build that has been Micro-Blued or WPC treated!!
😎 Thanks for watching!
killer build! Great attention to detail
This guy is amazing how fast he can tare one of these down
Dang, that’s a cool little engine. That cerakote is pretty awesome too. I’m probably rebuilding my oil cooled GSXR engine this year (if I get my shed built) and they’re a ridiculously hot engine. I’m going to look into cerakote for the pistons, valves, cases and cylinder block.
1216 and turbo
I'm building a 224 and I'm using champion rockers. I want to get billet retainers to switch to automotive style with keepers but I'm not sure if I need to run lash caps on both sides? Or not at all? Any info would be greatly appreciated! You're channel is one of the best tools a small engine builder can have. Can't thank you enough man just for giving me the confidence to open up a predator and doing internal work. Thank you
Keep it up love these engine build Episodes
Thanks for watching!
Nice job man, I work with like that engine, but this engine and your job stayed impressively 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video's.
I think Im going to build a super engine for my son's Cycle Kart.
Normaly the club runs 5 hp 212, but my boy is big, and I want him to be able to complete with the other Cycle Karts.
Thanks again,
Too cool , looks and sounds great
Wish you would put a loop in the exhaust system behind that cover. It would really give a deep tone to it. Would take some cutting on the old briggs racing exhaust but it would sound so good 🤣👍.
@@bradensmith888 look up a briggs and Stratton hoop racing exhaust they give low end torque and make predator engines sound way different. But modification is required to get them to fit because how the exhaust ports are different angle from briggs to clone engines
MAN THAT SOUNDS STRONG, GREAT VIDEO
This motor would be great in a open modified kart class, junior dragster or mini bike drags.
Do you ever degree the cam?
Great video, extremely informative!! Thank you.... 👍🏼😎
Curious to know what the compression ratio comes out to with that much material take off the head + flat top piston? 🤔 still on pump gas or is race gas needed at this point?
depends on the cam. Static vs dynamic compression
I did a non hemi predator build,arc flywheel - rod - mod2 265 cam Mikuni carb- pipe n swear I double Hp,n governor deleat,had to make wheelie bar because at 20 mph just gas it n your riding a wheelie 🔥💕
Oh n 18 lb valve springs,she,s mean
This channel is so informative
Your instructional videos are awesome, thanks for sharing!
Glad you like them!
I like the video sometime I'd like to see a build in real time just like this
Just curious about something, is there any issues with balance , after you having to clearance the crank,rod , and cam ?? I thought those would all be balanced from manufacturers?
Just curious
Man you are such a expert..I think I missed when you put the piston and rod in witch way it goes..( I know but did u say ?) And when you showed the lash cap did you say what is and what is for ??? I am not judging you..my grandson 10 years old watch the video and asked me..your so good he says he can build one to just by your instructions.... thank you with all respect sir
Rod is oriented with the dipper on the cap at the bottom of the crankcase. With that orientation, the piston is installed with the arrow pointing down to the bottom of the cylinder.
Hope that helps you.
Now go build a screamer.
The lash caps go on the end of the valves. They are hardened and will take the pounding the rocker arms will give them. I was more concerned with all the "clearance work done" That is a lot of grinding and not for the faint of heart.
I knew witch way it installed ...was just trying to point out the way it went so RB could add it for the inexperienced builder RB is a damm good instructor just thought he missed that part. ....from now on I will keep my mouth shut
@@toddmeanie6003 I'm sorry if I came off the wrong way. I genuinely thought you didn't know and were asking. It's cool.
As for what I said about building a screamer. I was referring to you and your grandson getting out into the garage and putting one together.
Make some power dude.
Small engines are a great way to learn hot rodding at an early age.
I’m late on watching this video and am not trying to put anyone down or start an argument but from what I’ve learned from building and working on many performance engines grinding the block for clearance would be the best option when you grind on a rod crank or cam that messes with the balance and could cause vibrations and possibly failures just something to think about.
This channel is SO cool!
Do you have a video where you cover the crank case venting? That’s what I was most looking forward to in this build.
I will make one sir.
Yes I would like to see that and why is there two. And why are you not venting to atmosphere? Thanks!
@@byker283 all engines "huff and puff" as the piston/pistons move up and down so the crankcase is subject to constantly changing positive and negative pressure; particularly at high rpm. I had blow-by issues with a bored out VW flat four, ran a piece of tubing from valve cover to valve cover and cured it. This 224cc IS vented to the atmosphere, straight up and has a filter on it; I route mine to a "catch can" on my BT200X an early 224cc built at 72mm x 55mm.
@@frederickwoods5943 I understand that, mine is vented as well, but why put it back into the valve cover just to vent it out of the cover? Mine comes out of block to a vent on the frame with a 2 foot piece of hose. And why is their 2 vents coming out of the side cover. Once should be sufficient.
@@byker283 I agree. I've seen guys "vent" from the side cover right to the rocker cover. Are they trying to get extra oil into the upper valve train? The sump area of the block is already vented through the block and head into the upper valve train internally. Extra venting could just be done from the top of the rocker cover into the atmosphere. Or like you have done with an open vent right out of the block with a long hose.
Insane, I want to build up a 212 predator but I have no idea how, I wish I had some pros In my area to build one for me 😆
Truly is amazing, but would it not be more cost effective to just buy a 20hp engine?
The point of the video is a high performance 224 engine that happens to create 20hp. The hp rating is irrelevant.
You can't put a price on fun!
@@RedBeardsGarage The perfect answer....
This is one of those "more money than brains" scenarios.
@@nathan1sixteen says someone with no brains and no money......😆😆😆
Hell yeah makes me wanna build one.
They are tons of fun for sure!
We gotta see the dyno vids. I’d love to see it ripping
That little guy is a bad mamma jamma. It would be cool to see it on a dyno.
Awesome video!!!. I don't know Predator motors. What was the hp to start with?. Looks like a really good build with really nice parts. The only thing I didn't like was the grinding for clearance part. No way to do it and keep balance in your home shop. How much did this build cost?.
Dying to know how to get my hands on those billet cup washers and hardware! Building my 224 right now and those are by far my favorite touch. If there’s anyway you could let me know sizes and where you got them that’d be great! The link in description doesn’t work thanks again
Sounds awesome and Looks pretty dang cool too
😎😎😎
12:53 Is that a nick in the cam lobe? Did it come that way or an accident happen?
What's the absolute max RPM those billet flywheels can handle?
You wouldn't happen to know of a readily available belt drive transaxle that would work for a golf cart? I bought a duromax 440 to swap it but it's a 2 stroke ezgo so it uses the motor/generator to operate reverse. I've got a OG dingo and thought about robbing the open diff out of it with a reverse box but I'm torn.
Excellent work as always man keep it up. Hopefully you guys make a trip out to Johnson City this season. Buffalo Mountain is awesome in a SxS.
I sure would like to see a dyno run of this 224 Predator max! Curious about how much Hp it’s making.
One question can you use the 212 predator billet parts for this engine ?
that is an interesting and unique method you use to balance your motor. just remove whatever is in the way?
Curious if you gave feedback to the manufacturers of the cam, connecting rod on those clearance issues… most don’t have that cutaway hemi cover to see those interference issues and would have had some head scratching to find where it was hitting… thanks!
very impressive build and i enjoyed the video. Did any of that grinding mess with the balancing of the engine or does it not really matter that much with an engine of this size?
RB please explain the CCV system
I see the check valve on the valve cover keeping negative pressure up top inviting more oil mist up that way and removing pressure but why the two large clear hoses?
Is this aiding in the transfer to the head?
Would you go any higher on cam lift and duration with the 1.2 rockers? Trying to figure out if I should get ratio rockers or not for 275 cam
I started adding up the build cost on this engine build and quickly surpassed the cost of a used cbr1000 running engine.
I can understand the build if a person were to do it in stages and can appreciate all the cool parts but in the end you have around 20hp for 2K in an engine that I would not consider reliable compared to other options for the same money.
Yeah but the whole point is making that much power from a tiny weightless engine on a light mini bike
It’s not supposed to be a 100+hp bike
Better off just buying a tillotson 228r from ECCarbs
@@robertwallis9113 The weight is definitely a valid argument 👍
hey, I'm in the process of building a 224 right now and have seen a few things about needing to mess with the timing key for the flywheel. just wondering if you just used the stock key or had to find one that worked?
I personally used the stoke key
RED BEARD IS TOP NOTCH💯 PERCENT
First of all.. im really impressed with the build quality you do for all your project.. :-)
How much would an engine like this cost after the upgrade..? Can it compete with the high performance CT70 style engines where a 20hp engine cost around $1000..
around 2000 dollars
Will champion rockers work with this set up I think it should please let me know thank u I'm running a 320 cam
'We're going to rebuild a predator engine to make if faster... so first we're going to replace the cam, carburetor, piston, connecting rod, crank, block and jug with aftermarket parts. Then we're to use an aftermarket head and port it and replace the valves, valve springs and lifters. walla, we made our predator more powerful.'
try a backcut on the valves next time it helps flow as valves start to open
enjoyed and learned .i got a question can you put the magnito generator for lights on a 224 i did on the 112 but don"t know if i can on the 224 never even tried until i know for sure
You should’ve showed a video of how to put the 30 series torque converter on this engine
Wow 😳 cool it look so good and sounds powerful . allsome stuff
Could I ask what tools you use to make clearance on the rod and crankshaft?
you gotta describe all the tubes from the valve cover to the crank case pls
Hi I'm building a 224, I'm just wondering if the parts I got for it wont blow it up, what I already have on it is a governor delete, oil censor delete, cast aluminum fly wheel rated for 10k rpm, billet rod, 18lb valve springs and a mikuni clone round slide. I ordered a .01 head gasket, 22lb valve springs, and a 265 hot cam. ill do the necessary clearancing, but I'm just wondering if I need anything else for my setup to run reliably.
maybe 26 pound springs but you’ll be fine
Hey, RBG, how would this motor survive being used to push a small boat with a long tail mud motor kit attached? I've seen a couple of people {perhaps even yourself?) say that stock motors work best for this purpose, and that performance-built motors used like this don't live for very long . Apparently it is because of substantially higher sustained RPM's being involved. 🤔 Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video. 👍
Hey after the bottom of the jug is clearanced for the rod and you have to hone the cylinder, do you use a 69.9mm ball hone or the 73mm ball hone?