Having been a technician for 44 years, I have to say to you thank you for the whole video! Very nicely done! It's refreshing to see someone that knows what they are doing and can be able to explain it to the lay person in a way that is easy to understand.
Great diagnostics, Eric! I'm an electronic engineer for almost 30 years - your approach is very systematic, logical and scientific. You have a great understanding of the mechanical, electrical and software operation of cars and go right to the most time saving diagnostic method. If you ever get tired of wrenching, you would be a great teacher at a tech college. Any college should be happy to have you teaching the art of auto diag and repair. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
I've said it before. This is my favorite repair channel, why? Eric's a down to earth dude, quick and to the point videos, I don't have to watch at 1.5x speed like some others just to get to the point and I still usually learn a thing or two.
Exactly what typical old shops don’t understand, gotta KEEP UP WITH THE TIMES. Cars as old as the 2000s have hundreds of modules that control them, you need to have the equipment to work on them amd understand how to use that equipment. Great Diagnostic!
I honestly love how you make reading tech drawings from timing to wiring simple. Much appreciated and I am learning lots. Defo going to keep watching. Best teacher so far found. Awsome mechanic thank you
Speaking of timing. ..On many channels I end-up increasing the playback speed, as I often feel they are wasting time. Your approach is better, BANG, here it is, so I don't need to do that. Thanks for the quality, super-concentrated and highly focused content.
Definitely better to replace engine. Great diagnose process. I had assumed first with most nissans. Bad crank or cam sensors. I know it's a pain to do timing replacement on these. Very involved.
Very educational and entertaining content. I'm glad I live in an era where knowledge and experience is easily transferable through youtube videos like this. Keep it up!
Low oil level causes low oil pressure which causes the chain tensioner to fail and therefore causes the chain to skip teeth. the VQ35 and 37 are notorious for this issue. Well done with your diagnostics.
I had this once with a customers 350z. The second I cranked it and it backfired through the intake I new someone's gonna need a new engine . Checking the codes n compression confirmed it for me. 3 dead cylinders n crank/cam codes. Great content bro #mechlife
Completly professional wow. Great work and terrific explanation and i as a mechanic and constantly learning trying to be a technician appreciate your channels advice😎😎😎
Man Eric I really appreciate the videos! Thanks for being so detailed about the hookups on the car Eric! Because what is common sense to you is not to the newbies in the field. You make AWESOME VIDEOS!!
Impressed with your attention to detail and explaining of where to put the leads and how. I would've loved to find this channel sooner! you'll be seeing some more interaction from me for sure!
Please give a follow up on this car. Those engines are pretty tough. I would think a chain tensioner failed thus the chain skipped a couple of teeth. Oil level and condition of oil is critical on variable valve engines.
I believe the shop is just going to recommend replacing the engine with a low mileage used one. It’s less labor and less liability for the shop. If they have any trouble with the engine, the salvage yard will exchange it for them.
It's unfortunate the owner didn't know about you in the beginning. Timing chains are supposed to be much more reliable compared to a belt, plus it's sad that just happens to be an interference engine. Great diagnosis btw!
Beast! I would love to have this knowledge. I wouldn't even know where to start. Maybe one day. For now I'm just a backyard mechanic. Keep up the excellent work!
I started watching your channel with the purple Viper fix. Here I think I’m pretty good at fixing cars but you’re next level lol. If you’re ever in Dallas and want to check out a proper early model Viper lmk 👍
I had the same issue with my 2013 Infiniti g37x.i didn’t have to switch the whole engine.they was getting bad readings from the ignition coils.should’ve did a check list and swapped each part that gave them a issue.from experience I did what the lady probably did and that’s not keeping up with my maintenance.if any one has any questions I will be glad to answer how I avoided a engine swap.
So the ignition coils were the problem? I have an Infiniti I'm trying to diagnose for my friend. 2010 g37. It has p0340 code. I changed the spark plugs and it's still missing on 2 3 and 4 cylinders. Vacuum lines are good. I used the torque app to see what the cams were doing and bank 2 is stuck at -128 degrees. I switched the two on the top front around but it still has -128 degrees on bank 2 cam.
If you have maintenance done on time for 2013-and-up VHRs, you're never looking at a swap. 200K miles easy peazy. New spark plugs at 85K, replaced passenger bank valve cover & gasket at 90K, new rad & main hose at 105K. A whole bunch of rotors & pads, oil changes at 4-6K intervals, never to break down and leave me stranded over 6.5 years now. This 2013 G37xS sedan has 116K on the clock, pulls like it's still 2016 and so... it's in for the long haul, as it should. 🍻
Had/have a similar issue w/ my 09 coupe…eventually lost compression and was Suggested that I replaced engine. Ended up doing so and the same Thing happened with the replacement..need to figure out what’s causing the issue upstream
@@Dougdea your cam phasers have moved and you should replace them to adjust the timing back to specs, timing cover must be removed to do this. google it.
Pointing out that the camshaft to camshaft correlation might be off because of the VVT system is something not many people would think of. Great video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe so this channel can get bigger!
This is the reason whenever I hear someone say, “My mechanic said…”. I’m not a professional mechanic (work in a completely unrelated field) but as soon as I heard you push the start button I knew it was a timing issue. I’m guessing anyone with a $30 code reader would have gotten a cam/crank correlation code. Why “mechanics” would try batteries, or fuel pumps to fix it amazes me.
Another superb diag, Eric! It's pretty pathetic that the "mobile mechanic" (ugh) wasted the customer's money by throwing most likely unnecessary parts at a problem that accomplished nothing for the customer except decrease her bank balance. There's NOBODY better in Texas than you!
before getting to the end my guess was a relay or timing, people never overlook timing so often its not even funny. im a newbie still learning and compression and timing is one of the things i check often
I remember reading somewhere that the 3.5L V6 had timing chain issues but I thought that problem was fixed on the 3.7L My wife's 2013 EX37 bought new only has 39k miles on it and I change the oil twice a year which means every 2 to 3K miles so hopefully it will be a long time before her car has the problem.
bro i had a similar problem with my infinty m35x. except no power for my scenario, long story short it was some sort of fuse i don't remember with one thou. keep it coming brother i love this videos
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well. Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off. All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
My rule of thumb is, avoid all European cars. Jaguar, Land Rover (I believe both are owned by Tata now), VW, Audi, BMW, etc., especially all the newer, plastic-built crap.
Great video as always Eric, your vids are better than a great mystery novel for my analytical brain. I haven't been watching YT much lately, I remember you closed up your shop a while back, are you purely mobile diagnostics now?
I feel sorry for the lady. As Eric O says - that mobile mechanic used the part cannon. I am glad you found the real problem but sadly in these times people have almost exhausted their savings.
The chain is a huge pain and is always being talked about. If someone is doing theirs and you are in a group with them ask if you can do both of yalls at the same time. It will save you from this.
Very nice and well done man, thank you for sharing you knowledge wirh everyone else. That is how we are suppose to learn, by doing and grrr getting dirty. And people should appreciate what a good mechanic has to go through to earn a buck, not every diagnostic is simple and easy, some do kick your butt!
I have a 2014 Altima with a 2.5 it has a really really frustrating issue. When the engine is cold the car starts and runs just fine. If you let it idle for a long time or if you go on a long drive and then turn the car off, it will not start, I get crank but won't fire. Starting fluid will get it running and it will run just fine after it starts. I have replaced both Cam sensors and the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. All 4 ignition coils, new plugs, pulled and tested all 4 injectors, all tested good. After doing all this work, the car is now giving me a code. P0171 Fuel trim - Bank 1 - mixture too lean This is contradictory to the spark plugs telling me it's way to rich by the amount of black carbon on them. The last thing I can think that might be the issue is the fuel pump but this does not make sense to me because it only happens when the car gets hot and the fuel pump is quite away from the engine. Also, if you let the car cool down and drive it a bit the p0171 code removes it self. Any ideas???
Can anyone help me with my g37 lol . I have a 2010 g37 sedan and it doesn’t start when the engine is warmed up but it starts perfectly when it’s like first time starting it in the day and drives fine only thing is if I start it and drive it and then try to start it again , it won’t start . It’ll do like 2 cranks and then nothing . This only happens when car is warmed up , when it’s cool down it starts with no problem.
Crank immediately sounds like low or no compression. I’m 2:08 into the video….. Looks like timing issue and possibly isolated to one bank (5:40 into video)….….BOOOM! I was correct I believe. Had to do a cam crank correlation on a Range Rover I owned with similar symptoms. Awesome Eric!
dude, your videos help me understand potential problems with my 2011 Nissan Altima Hybrid. Only thing is, i currently have problems with my hybrid system im getting codes P0AA6, U0293, B2562, B261E. I'm able to take the terminal off my 12v battery and put it back on to start my car but itll eventually have the hybrid electrical system light pop up and if i turn the car off, itll not start again. What could be the problem? So far im being charged thousands to "try" potential fixes with no reasoning behind them by the dealer.
Great video and diag. Curious to know what was the code or codes u pulled? Was it a p0019 or p0021? Seen this a few times on these engines. I think it comes from wrong type and or low oil allowing the chain to stretch and or guides to fail. The other techs/ mechanic should had known better than to throw parts at it
This was an excellent video, and your imitation of the engine was perfect. It’s disheartening the lady spent so much money on unnecessary parts and labor due to inept diagnostics.
Great information, even for a DIY guy like me without all the expensive equipment. Thanks so much for doing this one! Also, what’s that classic ride in the next bay?!!
Nice video, I have a Nissan Altima 2009, it does the same but the motor sounds very good, no arrhythmia. Any suggestions? Will greatly appreciated. Thanks
I like the waveform scanner, I could use it on my 07 VQ35HR to see why the hell it takes 3-4 seconds to start every time, hot or cold. But, in this video, as soon as you pressed the Start button, i knew the timing chain skipped at least one tooth because of the 'sound' of the engine. Just listen how it sounds and it's 100% mechanical. These engines need proper maintenance to run till the wheels fall off, but if the maintenance is p00r, then the engine can't run. If you eat p00r food, you will feel like shit and get sick..
One of these channels I like before I even watch 😎 great stuff as usual bro!! So glad you show how you actually hook up your scope and go through almost every step. No skipping around your actually teaching. Would def like to see more scope videos explaining why your doing what your doing.
The pattern of the compression test gave it away as a bank being out of time. Scanner danner had a case where there was no compression at all on one bank and the engine sounded fine because it would do just like this engine, fire evenly from bank to bank. He figured that the compression test only had 3 humps from each fire event lol, though he had missed that and didn't realize it was a mechanical but great case study nonetheless because other tests were conducted.
So I've got a question for you Eric. 2007 m35x Drive shaft u-joint broke Made a hole in the side of the bell housing. Pieces of the bell housing damaged the starter. Starter and drive shaft replaced. Car was running fine before repair. Now it just cranks but won't fire. Garage gave up so I sent it to a dealer. One guy said it's possible that the pieces of the bell housing may have bent a tab on the flywheel that has something to do with timing. Does this sound logical to you? Like I said, it was running and driving fine until the driveshaft u-joint broke.
Hard to say, since I wasn't there, but it sounds like they just fired the parts cannon at it. Since nothing fixed it, they just threw their hands up, and moved on to the next guessing game.
Having been a technician for 44 years, I have to say to you thank you for the whole video! Very nicely done! It's refreshing to see someone that knows what they are doing and can be able to explain it to the lay person in a way that is easy to understand.
Great diagnostics, Eric! I'm an electronic engineer for almost 30 years - your approach is very systematic, logical and scientific. You have a great understanding of the mechanical, electrical and software operation of cars and go right to the most time saving diagnostic method. If you ever get tired of wrenching, you would be a great teacher at a tech college. Any college should be happy to have you teaching the art of auto diag and repair. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
I've said it before. This is my favorite repair channel, why? Eric's a down to earth dude, quick and to the point videos, I don't have to watch at 1.5x speed like some others just to get to the point and I still usually learn a thing or two.
Thank you for the support!
If you like Advanced videos, then you will love South Main Autos channel as well.
South Main Auto is much better.
@@cocainecowboy1717 I like scanner danner more ... he's more about education
Complete Diagnostic without touching the Engine. Thats fantastic. Greetings from Germany.
Greetings!
I love it.
Not all mobile mechanics are equal skill and experience! Well done Eric. Greetings from Canada.
They should have call Eric or Ivan and saved lots of money from the parts cannon.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 That's correct or call another Eric from SMA, Paul from ScannerDanner as well)
100% truth.
Exactly what typical old shops don’t understand, gotta KEEP UP WITH THE TIMES. Cars as old as the 2000s have hundreds of modules that control them, you need to have the equipment to work on them amd understand how to use that equipment. Great Diagnostic!
I honestly love how you make reading tech drawings from timing to wiring simple. Much appreciated and I am learning lots. Defo going to keep watching. Best teacher so far found. Awsome mechanic thank you
great diagnosis. as soon as i heard it turn over i heard the sound of death and would have stopped
Speaking of timing. ..On many channels I end-up increasing the playback speed, as I often feel they are wasting time. Your approach is better, BANG, here it is, so I don't need to do that. Thanks for the quality, super-concentrated and highly focused content.
When 2 channels is all you really need. Nice job my friend
Definitely better to replace engine. Great diagnose process. I had assumed first with most nissans. Bad crank or cam sensors. I know it's a pain to do timing replacement on these. Very involved.
Very educational and entertaining content. I'm glad I live in an era where knowledge and experience is easily transferable through youtube videos like this. Keep it up!
This guy as always is a great teacher
Awesome job showing mechanical component position through electronic wave forms💯
2:00 yup, that was my thought instantly lol
Flawless diagnosis!
Low oil level causes low oil pressure which causes the chain tensioner to fail and therefore causes the chain to skip teeth. the VQ35 and 37 are notorious for this issue. Well done with your diagnostics.
Gallery gasket
I know it’s a year old, but thank for answering a question I was about to ask, I wanted to know what makes the chain jump
I had this once with a customers 350z.
The second I cranked it and it backfired through the intake I new someone's gonna need a new engine . Checking the codes n compression confirmed it for me. 3 dead cylinders n crank/cam codes.
Great content bro
#mechlife
Completly professional wow. Great work and terrific explanation and i as a mechanic and constantly learning trying to be a technician appreciate your channels advice😎😎😎
I seriously doubt that shop is capable of replacing timing chains if that's all it needs. Hence the motor swap.
Great video and diagnosis Eric!
Man Eric I really appreciate the videos! Thanks for being so detailed about the hookups on the car Eric! Because what is common sense to you is not to the newbies in the field. You make AWESOME VIDEOS!!
Eric we will always wait for you
Thank you!
You know it!
Its always good to see you solve the problem. There ok mechanics and there are good mechanics. You are a very good mechanic.
Love the sound effects
Eric I could sit under your teaching for hours, thank you!!!
Yoo there's no way dude, this just happened to my G37 yesterday and I'm glad to have found you
Impressed with your attention to detail and explaining of where to put the leads and how. I would've loved to find this channel sooner! you'll be seeing some more interaction from me for sure!
Wow! You never cease to amaze and educate! Thank you for sharing, you do great work!
well done Eric i see all of your videos and you must know that you have a fan from GREECE
Please give a follow up on this car. Those engines are pretty tough. I would think a chain tensioner failed thus the chain skipped a couple of teeth. Oil level and condition of oil is critical on variable valve engines.
I believe the shop is just going to recommend replacing the engine with a low mileage used one. It’s less labor and less liability for the shop. If they have any trouble with the engine, the salvage yard will exchange it for them.
Methodically trouble shot and everything skillfully explained. Awesome content!
I enjoy watching your videos. You have much to offer. Greetings from San Antonio, TX!
It's unfortunate the owner didn't know about you in the beginning.
Timing chains are supposed to be much more reliable compared to a belt, plus it's sad that just happens to be an interference engine.
Great diagnosis btw!
killer job on explaining what you were doing as you went along, very easy to follow and I learn a nice chunk. Thank you for sharing.
Beast! I would love to have this knowledge. I wouldn't even know where to start. Maybe one day. For now I'm just a backyard mechanic. Keep up the excellent work!
Great engine cranking sound effects Eric... LOL... 10/10 for the diagnosis...
This was amazing to watch.. Comp test off of starter current.??...??? Mind blown.. Awesome vid. Keep up the great work man. Def got yourself a new sub
Great work using the scope for relative compression vs pulling the plugs and using a gauge.
I started watching your channel with the purple Viper fix. Here I think I’m pretty good at fixing cars but you’re next level lol.
If you’re ever in Dallas and want to check out a proper early model Viper lmk 👍
Based on the RC test it pretty much proves the timing fault. Good video Eric.
My first guess when I heard you crank that engine was "timing is F-ed Up". Keep these great vids coming, sir!
Good diagnostic 👍 not too many good mechanic out there ,all they do is parts changes .
Man love watching all your videos, i always pick up diff.things to go about checking a vehicle
I had the same issue with my 2013 Infiniti g37x.i didn’t have to switch the whole engine.they was getting bad readings from the ignition coils.should’ve did a check list and swapped each part that gave them a issue.from experience I did what the lady probably did and that’s not keeping up with my maintenance.if any one has any questions I will be glad to answer how I avoided a engine swap.
I have a a 2009 g37 coupe at what mileage did yours start?
So the ignition coils were the problem? I have an Infiniti I'm trying to diagnose for my friend. 2010 g37. It has p0340 code. I changed the spark plugs and it's still missing on 2 3 and 4 cylinders. Vacuum lines are good. I used the torque app to see what the cams were doing and bank 2 is stuck at -128 degrees. I switched the two on the top front around but it still has -128 degrees on bank 2 cam.
If you have maintenance done on time for 2013-and-up VHRs, you're never looking at a swap. 200K miles easy peazy. New spark plugs at 85K, replaced passenger bank valve cover & gasket at 90K, new rad & main hose at 105K. A whole bunch of rotors & pads, oil changes at 4-6K intervals, never to break down and leave me stranded over 6.5 years now. This 2013 G37xS sedan has 116K on the clock, pulls like it's still 2016 and so... it's in for the long haul, as it should. 🍻
Had/have a similar issue w/ my 09 coupe…eventually lost compression and was
Suggested that I replaced engine. Ended up doing so and the same Thing happened with the replacement..need to figure out what’s causing the issue upstream
Any help is appreciated
Unplug crank position sensor, if the engine starts, cam phasers have moved, very common problem.
What do I do if this happens?
Please I need help, I unplugged crank sensor and it starts but with it plugged in it does nkt
@@Dougdea your cam phasers have moved and you should replace them to adjust the timing back to specs, timing cover must be removed to do this.
google it.
Excellent. Very excellent diagnostic video! Great explanations during your process.
Pointing out that the camshaft to camshaft correlation might be off because of the VVT system is something not many people would think of. Great video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe so this channel can get bigger!
Worries me. No mention in video.
Can you make that cranking sound again!!! As an auto electric tech shop owner I have learned alot from you thank you and keep up the great work
I watch your videos as a tool. I'm about to start making my techs watch them
Hey Eric great job. your the man for this kind of stuff.
Great job Eric
This is the reason whenever I hear someone say, “My mechanic said…”. I’m not a professional mechanic (work in a completely unrelated field) but as soon as I heard you push the start button I knew it was a timing issue. I’m guessing anyone with a $30 code reader would have gotten a cam/crank correlation code. Why “mechanics” would try batteries, or fuel pumps to fix it amazes me.
You’re a real Master Mechanic! Well done!
Good job,I thought timing chain right when you first started it.
Wow pretty rare for the VQ37HR engine. did you check the cam sprocket?
Very good point, don't think he did lol
Another superb diag, Eric! It's pretty pathetic that the "mobile mechanic" (ugh) wasted the customer's money by throwing most likely unnecessary parts at a problem that accomplished nothing for the customer except decrease her bank balance. There's NOBODY better in Texas than you!
That was clear and straight forward explanation. Gotta get me one of those labscope thanks!!!
before getting to the end my guess was a relay or timing, people never overlook timing so often its not even funny. im a newbie still learning and compression and timing is one of the things i check often
I remember reading somewhere that the 3.5L V6 had timing chain issues but I thought that problem was fixed on the 3.7L My wife's 2013 EX37 bought new only has 39k miles on it and I change the oil twice a year which means every 2 to 3K miles so hopefully it will be a long time before her car has the problem.
The roadside rescue mobile mechanic should watch your videos and learn
Im so glad I subscribed. I enjoy watching someone who knows exactly what to look for and how to explain it.
Outstanding Diagnosis !!!
bro i had a similar problem with my infinty m35x. except no power for my scenario, long story short it was some sort of fuse i don't remember with one thou. keep it coming brother i love this videos
THANK FOR A COMPLETE DIAGNOSIS AS ALWAYS
Love how your quick an straight forward Great job
Love you bro! Your an amazing teacher.
I'm glad I ran into this channel. Very informative
Thanks man ! Keep it up the good videos .
Love ur channel keep it up 👍 🍻
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off.
All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
Would like to see a video advising us what make of car give or gave you to most trouble motor wise and electronic wise.
My rule of thumb is, avoid all European cars. Jaguar, Land Rover (I believe both are owned by Tata now), VW, Audi, BMW, etc., especially all the newer, plastic-built crap.
Problems motor wise, I would say Dodge Chrysler. Problems electronic wise I would say Bmw or Mercedes. Thanks for watching!
Great video I really enjoyed it 👍
Thanks for watching!
Great video as always Eric, your vids are better than a great mystery novel for my analytical brain. I haven't been watching YT much lately, I remember you closed up your shop a while back, are you purely mobile diagnostics now?
I feel sorry for the lady. As Eric O says - that mobile mechanic used the part cannon. I am glad you found the real problem but sadly in these times people have almost exhausted their savings.
The chain is a huge pain and is always being talked about. If someone is doing theirs and you are in a group with them ask if you can do both of yalls at the same time. It will save you from this.
Short, sweet, and informative. Awesome video sir
Good review Eric....as previous episode...keep supporting you ...keep post a good content..
Thank you for your support!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO yes,..welcome Eric...
You’re a bad man with the skills you have.
Very nice and well done man, thank you for sharing you knowledge wirh everyone else. That is how we are suppose to learn, by doing and grrr getting dirty. And people should appreciate what a good mechanic has to go through to earn a buck, not every diagnostic is simple and easy, some do kick your butt!
LOL But we have a computer that will tell us what's wrong so figuring it out is easy. (I'd like to smack those kinds of people)
I have a 2014 Altima with a 2.5 it has a really really frustrating issue. When the engine is cold the car starts and runs just fine. If you let it idle for a long time or if you go on a long drive and then turn the car off, it will not start, I get crank but won't fire. Starting fluid will get it running and it will run just fine after it starts.
I have replaced both Cam sensors and the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. All 4 ignition coils, new plugs, pulled and tested all 4 injectors, all tested good.
After doing all this work, the car is now giving me a code. P0171
Fuel trim - Bank 1 - mixture too lean
This is contradictory to the spark plugs telling me it's way to rich by the amount of black carbon on them.
The last thing I can think that might be the issue is the fuel pump but this does not make sense to me because it only happens when the car gets hot and the fuel pump is quite away from the engine.
Also, if you let the car cool down and drive it a bit the p0171 code removes it self.
Any ideas???
Can anyone help me with my g37 lol . I have a 2010 g37 sedan and it doesn’t start when the engine is warmed up but it starts perfectly when it’s like first time starting it in the day and drives fine only thing is if I start it and drive it and then try to start it again , it won’t start . It’ll do like 2 cranks and then nothing . This only happens when car is warmed up , when it’s cool down it starts with no problem.
same problem
Excellent diagnosis. Tec. Nice video esa es mi eramieta faborita
Crank immediately sounds like low or no compression. I’m 2:08 into the video….. Looks like timing issue and possibly isolated to one bank (5:40 into video)….….BOOOM! I was correct I believe. Had to do a cam crank correlation on a Range Rover I owned with similar symptoms. Awesome Eric!
dude, your videos help me understand potential problems with my 2011 Nissan Altima Hybrid. Only thing is, i currently have problems with my hybrid system im getting codes P0AA6, U0293, B2562, B261E. I'm able to take the terminal off my 12v battery and put it back on to start my car but itll eventually have the hybrid electrical system light pop up and if i turn the car off, itll not start again. What could be the problem? So far im being charged thousands to "try" potential fixes with no reasoning behind them by the dealer.
Very well done sir!. Spot on. Probably ran low on oil. Very common on the vq .
Great video and diag. Curious to know what was the code or codes u pulled? Was it a p0019 or p0021? Seen this a few times on these engines. I think it comes from wrong type and or low oil allowing the chain to stretch and or guides to fail. The other techs/ mechanic should had known better than to throw parts at it
This was an excellent video, and your imitation of the engine was perfect. It’s disheartening the lady spent so much money on unnecessary parts and labor due to inept diagnostics.
Great information, even for a DIY guy like me without all the expensive equipment. Thanks so much for doing this one! Also, what’s that classic ride in the next bay?!!
Great diagnosis but I can't believe they're just jumping straight to replacing the engine
Nice video, I have a Nissan Altima 2009, it does the same but the motor sounds very good, no arrhythmia. Any suggestions? Will greatly appreciated. Thanks
This guy is Gold.
I like the waveform scanner, I could use it on my 07 VQ35HR to see why the hell it takes 3-4 seconds to start every time, hot or cold. But, in this video, as soon as you pressed the Start button, i knew the timing chain skipped at least one tooth because of the 'sound' of the engine. Just listen how it sounds and it's 100% mechanical. These engines need proper maintenance to run till the wheels fall off, but if the maintenance is p00r, then the engine can't run. If you eat p00r food, you will feel like shit and get sick..
One of these channels I like before I even watch 😎 great stuff as usual bro!! So glad you show how you actually hook up your scope and go through almost every step. No skipping around your actually teaching. Would def like to see more scope videos explaining why your doing what your doing.
Exactly! Most of the other channels do not show the step by step of the process. This guy is actually teaching.
@@Ironblank1 thats why hes one of the best bro 👍
The pattern of the compression test gave it away as a bank being out of time. Scanner danner had a case where there was no compression at all on one bank and the engine sounded fine because it would do just like this engine, fire evenly from bank to bank. He figured that the compression test only had 3 humps from each fire event lol, though he had missed that and didn't realize it was a mechanical but great case study nonetheless because other tests were conducted.
you are talented my man!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome video man!! Loving it
New subscriber here - seen two of yur videos so far and I liked them.
So I've got a question for you Eric.
2007 m35x
Drive shaft u-joint broke
Made a hole in the side of the bell housing.
Pieces of the bell housing damaged the starter.
Starter and drive shaft replaced.
Car was running fine before repair.
Now it just cranks but won't fire.
Garage gave up so I sent it to a dealer.
One guy said it's possible that the pieces of the bell housing may have bent a tab on the flywheel that has something to do with timing.
Does this sound logical to you?
Like I said, it was running and driving fine until the driveshaft u-joint broke.
Eric top notch tech
I wonder how they figured out the fuel pump module and sensor needed replaced. Strike two...
Hard to say, since I wasn't there, but it sounds like they just fired the parts cannon at it. Since nothing fixed it, they just threw their hands up, and moved on to the next guessing game.
I'm having the same issue on my FX35, only difference is my engine does have the same rythm when it cranks but it won't come on as if ran out of gas.