To whom it may concern, astro pneumatics sells an air impact that will easily fit in that space for the crank bolt. Also, I think harbor freight is coming out with one. They are extremely awsome if you have air. Game changers and back savers.
nice vid. i've seen people ding their cars when they use a breaker bar on the crank bolt when the bolt breaks loose. i tske out radiator to avoid accidental damage but also i csn then use my air gun
@@FixingWithPassion i came back to re-watch your videos along with the service manual and i was wondering if i can get away with just separating the a/c compressor and bracket from the heads rather than completely taking out the a/c compressor...thoughts?
There is a trick on the crank bolt you could try put your breaker bar on bolt and get the handle about 8 to 10 inches away from the frame make sure the handle won't hit nothing but the frame and turn the engine over with the key and when it hits the frame it will break it loose make sure you disable spark or fuel so the engine doesn't crank up I used this technique on a stubborn subaru crank bolt it worked like a charm also make sure the breaker bar isn't right up against the frame it won't work the key is to have it 8 to 10 inches away that way when you crank it over it hits the frame hard that's what breaks it loose
Only one broken intake bolt, seems like a win! That pesky crank bolt looked kinda long with undersized thickness. Their usually more stubby and thick. Still a long way to go. Good luck🤸♂️
A trick to removing Allen head bolts or machine screws is to strike the screwdriver or extension with a hammer heard it called shocking the bolt, or kinetic shock. saved me from breaking any bolts/screws
For sure! If the crank pulley is coming off then I’m the type that will do the “while I’m already this far” repairs. The last thing you want to do is do both head gaskets and then some months later have to go in and change the timing belt and water pump when you could have knocked it all out in one swoop.
An easy way to remove the crank bolt: Set your breaker bar and wedge it on the chassis and crank the starter. It has enough torque to brake the crank bolt free
As someone else mentioned resting your breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter will bust the crank bolt loose usually. It’s not the best practice but if you are out of options it will do it.
I took of my distributor and cranked my crankshaft to TDC will that affect in any way also can I unloosen head bolts without removing camshafts ? Please lmk ASAP
That radiator support looks like it should be replaced too. It is pretty rotted out. I have done quite a few head gaskets over the years. It doesn't really matter what kind of vehicle, they always seem to be a pain except for maybe the early 80s and late 70s and earlier. After that, they put so much emissions crap all over them and made it almost impossible at times.
Thank you. And My only recommendation is to utilize the vehicles design to your advantage. Next time first Loosen the crank bolt with all belts attached and tension maxed is enough resistance if the head is still able to pressurize otherwise I believe you can lock the crankshaft from the spark plug hole there is a cylinder lock or twist and pinch the belt you are replacing like a figure eight and vice grips. Do not use metal tools against machined surfaces such as hose butting channels and groves. Clamp over the bad clamp with the matching curved channel locks and wiggle and twist using the hose for impact and gouge protection. A gouge in a rarely view place can easily be a problem after the system is pressurized a few times. Thank you for making these videos. Repair closest to OEM including all machined surfaces. The are very vital to the performance of all pressurized computer control systems. The wire in the tube is to maintain air consistency inside. So the in and out can match closest to each port.
Does it matter if it's at TDC or not? Because I removed stem seals, lifters, springs, I'm pretty sure I set TDC, but the mark isn't lined up with the arrow now, so I guess the crankshaft moved, and Ive never done this before so I want to be sure of what I'm supposed to do
Could you put a impact on the crank bolt
To whom it may concern, astro pneumatics sells an air impact that will easily fit in that space for the crank bolt. Also, I think harbor freight is coming out with one. They are extremely awsome if you have air. Game changers and back savers.
Yes I think the astro is called the nano
One could also use the breaker bar...place against something heavy and bump the starter.
nice vid. i've seen people ding their cars when they use a breaker bar on the crank bolt when the bolt breaks loose. i tske out radiator to avoid accidental damage but also i csn then use my air gun
Yea some are just nuts how tight they are!
@@FixingWithPassion i came back to re-watch your videos along with the service manual and i was wondering if i can get away with just separating the a/c compressor and bracket from the heads rather than completely taking out the a/c compressor...thoughts?
There is a trick on the crank bolt you could try put your breaker bar on bolt and get the handle about 8 to 10 inches away from the frame make sure the handle won't hit nothing but the frame and turn the engine over with the key and when it hits the frame it will break it loose make sure you disable spark or fuel so the engine doesn't crank up I used this technique on a stubborn subaru crank bolt it worked like a charm also make sure the breaker bar isn't right up against the frame it won't work the key is to have it 8 to 10 inches away that way when you crank it over it hits the frame hard that's what breaks it loose
Interesting idea
I've seen it work but I don't think that starter would've gotten it
This is actually the first step in this project. Spot on. Got Skillz!
Only one broken intake bolt, seems like a win! That pesky crank bolt looked kinda long with undersized thickness. Their usually more stubby and thick. Still a long way to go. Good luck🤸♂️
She's almost put back together tonight!
I used the breaker bar wedged against the AC compressor and turned the engine over and it broke loose that crank bolt in 2 secs!
Thank you for pointing our clearly that I can't do this job! With a mentor, maybe, but I'd be better off just paying the repair costs. Good video!
Excellent job.
Nice!!
I need a beer just watching this. Holy crap.
A trick to removing Allen head bolts or machine screws is to strike the screwdriver or extension with a hammer heard it called shocking the bolt, or kinetic shock. saved me from breaking any bolts/screws
Word!!
PLEASE Replace the timing belt Nathen, way to much work to skip that, cant cost that much and you have time to order parts Up to you of course
For sure! If the crank pulley is coming off then I’m the type that will do the “while I’m already this far” repairs. The last thing you want to do is do both head gaskets and then some months later have to go in and change the timing belt and water pump when you could have knocked it all out in one swoop.
Thanks for letting me know
An easy way to remove the crank bolt:
Set your breaker bar and wedge it on the chassis and crank the starter.
It has enough torque to brake the crank bolt free
I still don't trust that method...lol But hey...My luck the breaker bar probably would fly off and hit a 747 airplane and crash it...lol
As someone else mentioned resting your breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter will bust the crank bolt loose usually. It’s not the best practice but if you are out of options it will do it.
I did that exact same thing, came to comments to see if anyone else had before commenting it myself.
I did this on my Mark VII 20 years ago and it sent my extension through my radiator. The second time did work though.
I took of my distributor and cranked my crankshaft to TDC will that affect in any way also can I unloosen head bolts without removing camshafts ? Please lmk ASAP
I recommend a slide hammer for the lower intake.
That radiator support looks like it should be replaced too. It is pretty rotted out. I have done quite a few head gaskets over the years. It doesn't really matter what kind of vehicle, they always seem to be a pain except for maybe the early 80s and late 70s and earlier. After that, they put so much emissions crap all over them and made it almost impossible at times.
A little bit of heat from a gas torch on that crankshaft pulley works well to get it off
Good to know!!
Thank you. And My only recommendation is to utilize the vehicles design to your advantage. Next time first Loosen the crank bolt with all belts attached and tension maxed is enough resistance if the head is still able to pressurize otherwise I believe you can lock the crankshaft from the spark plug hole there is a cylinder lock or twist and pinch the belt you are replacing like a figure eight and vice grips. Do not use metal tools against machined surfaces such as hose butting channels and groves. Clamp over the bad clamp with the matching curved channel locks and wiggle and twist using the hose for impact and gouge protection. A gouge in a rarely view place can easily be a problem after the system is pressurized a few times. Thank you for making these videos. Repair closest to OEM including all machined surfaces. The are very vital to the performance of all pressurized computer control systems. The wire in the tube is to maintain air consistency inside. So the in and out can match closest to each port.
Does it matter if it's at TDC or not? Because I removed stem seals, lifters, springs, I'm pretty sure I set TDC, but the mark isn't lined up with the arrow now, so I guess the crankshaft moved, and Ive never done this before so I want to be sure of what I'm supposed to do
Back two steps then do it right then stop and look.
Having trouble trying to get rear exhaust manifold nut off can't get socket in there cause the cat is in the way any ideas?
No need to get to the back, take it off from the front.
At 12:10 did u figure out what that wire for mine is a rebult salavage and its rip off
Its an extra ground near the manifold/and AC Compressor helping the 02 also to get a good ground. But I think its does very little.
Do I have to remove a/c compressor ? Can I just move it aside
Next up, the cam. Or I guess that comes off with the head.
11:50 that ground wire was off the engine
Yea fixed it with a better one.
Can the part at 24:25 be replaced without taking off the timing cover and pulleys?
What mm size for the crank nut?
It costs 76 dollars to fix yourself basically?
I have never seen so much rust on a car
Thats actually nothing if you see the real autos that are hit hard
Figure eight the belts before removal and but your jack handle over that breaker bar. And heave ho!