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What "Downton Abbey" Got Wrong (A Menswear Expert's Review)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ส.ค. 2024
- See our review of the series "Downton Abbey"; we analyze if the men's costumes are right when it comes to classic style: gentl.mn/downton-abbey-menswe...
#downtownabbey #menswearreview #notsponsored
SHOP THE VIDEO:
→ Single End Bow Tie in Black Silk Satin: gentl.mn/single-end-bow-tie-b...
→ Dark Red Carnation Boutonniere: gentl.mn/dark-red-carnation-b...
→ Moss Green Pocket Square with Printed Geometric Medallions: gentl.mn/moss-green-medallion...
→ Caramel & Dark Burgundy Shadow Stripe Socks: gentl.mn/shadow-stripe-socks-...
→ Mid Brown Shoelaces Round: gentl.mn/mid-brown-round-shoe...
GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:
→ Lounge Suit: Dress Code: gentl.mn/lounge-suit-dress-code
→ 3 Easiest Tie Knots for Beginners: gentl.mn/easiest-tie-knots-be...
→ Should You Wear Pleated Pants?: gentl.mn/pleated-pants-1
→ Obscure Men’s Jewelry: obscure-mens-jewelry
→ How to Fold a Pocket Square: gentl.mn/how-to-fold-a-pocket...
→ Homburg Hat - Past, Present & Future: gentl.mn/homburg-hat-history-...
→ Morning Dress: Dress Code: gentl.mn/morning-dress-dress-...
→ Black Tie Guide: gentl.mn/tuxedo-black-tie-guide1
→ The Fedora Hat Guide: gentl.mn/fedora-hat-guide-1
→ Guide to the Bowler Hat: gentl.mn/bowler-hat-guide2
→ Straw Boater Hat Guide: gentl.mn/straw-boater-hat-guide1
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Aaron White
→ Camera: Lukas Mooney
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ PBS
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00:00 "Downton Abbey" Menswear Review Introduction
Among the most critically-acclaimed period TV series is the British production Downton Abbey. While many love the show as a whole, today, we take a closer look at their period-style menswear and analyze if they're historically accurate or not.
00:29 An Overview of the Programme
It is the fictional Yorkshire estate from which the show takes its name. The show follows the lives of the Crawley family headed by Lord Grantham, the seventh Earl of Grantham. The show mainly takes place inside Downton Abbey, which is, in fact, the Highclere Castle.
If they were a modern family, perhaps they'd be wearing slippers, hoodies, and sweatpants. But, back then, clothes were a lot more formal. Depending on the event, the people who are visiting, and the time of day, people might have changed clothes multiple times in a single day.
Menswear Expert’s Review of Downton Abbey Important Men's Clothing
Let's first look at some important male characters of the show, and what they wore, what was accurate and what was not.
03:30 Lord Grantham/Robert Crawley - Suits
08:29 Lord Grantham's Accessories
10:14 Lord Grantham's Outerwear & Brown Suit
13:02 Matthew Crawley
14:18 Tom Branson
Now, let's take a look on the specific items and dress codes the male characters wore and discuss what they got right and what they got wrong.
17:16 Dress Codes: 1. Morning Wear
20:20 2. Evening Ensembles
24:09 Hats: 1. Top Hats
25:22 2. Fedora Hats
26:19 3. Bowler Hat
26:47 4. Boater Hats
27:04 An Interesting Detail: Pleats
As you might know, personally, I love pleats because I have really big thighs. But Downton Abbey definitely introduced them too early.
In case you haven't watched it yet, definitely do so. Downton Abbey is a great drama, especially if you're interested in menswear. Overall, yes, they do get a few details wrong. But, in my mind, it's a lot better than anything usually produced in the US.
Only clothes historians or enthusiasts will probably pick up on the historically inaccurate details, but it really shouldn't deter you from watching the show.
You'd probably expect Raphael to sport a perfectly period-accurate 1920s outfit today. However, he doesn't have it in his wardrobe. Why? His physique doesn't work with what most men wore back then. He is just a size or two larger.
That being said, Aaron White, who wrote this script, has a channel called Antique Menswear, and he's what I would call an Edwardian gentleman who dresses up in true vintage gear. So, if you're interested in that, check out his TH-cam channel: / @antiquemenswear
28:36 Outfit Rundown
Gentlemans Gazette should start a side business as an early to mid 20th century mens fashion consultant for movies and TV.
Yes
I agree.
No, they should go big instead and produce these garments ! The knowledge is certainly in place.
You're right about that!! Hollywood always gets it wrong!!!
23:00 Robert had to wear a soft front shirt in his black tie ensemble in that scene because there were no starched front shirts left in his wardrobe. His valet had a dispute with some other staff member(s) that then hid all of the Earls stiff shirts cause they knew his valet is responsible for the Earls wardrobe.
Oh, how cheeky of that saucy devil...👹
I was just about to comment this! Great catch!
Right! A simple watch of the actual scene has many of the characters speaking about it.
Yes! And, if I remember correctly, Matthew's shirt was marked and sent off to the tailor's in order to have it repaired in time for the party, but it didn't arrive back in time.
@@dariel7001 same
Many years ago I remember talking to a senior partner at my law practice who had trained in the 1930’s. He said the sooty London smog was so bad, your stiff shirt collar was filthy by midday, so you were required to bring a spare stiff shirt collar to the office and change the collar for the afternoon.
Admittedly, even if it isn’t always perfect, it works well and gets the point across of the time period. They all still look good in their suits.
10:03
The Sherlock Holmes Series by Jeremy Brett would be a good period study for style
Yes please! I've always wanted to see a video examining Brett's Holmes and the suits he wore in that show.
Don't often see a historical fiction costume analysis video for menswear! Thank you for filling that niche. :) I'd love to see more in this vein, looking at different eras.
Please do a similar treatment of the BBC series, “Hercules Poirot”. It too extends over several years.
I'd love a collaboration with Karolina Zebrowska with the women's side of the equation for this or another period series.
what exactly do you have in mind?
@@gentlemansgazette Since both are in the same vintage fashion areas (men's and women's) maybe pick a show or series (or many) and talk about the clothes. Maybe Babylon Berlin? Early seasons of The Crown? Peaky Blinders?
It'd be an interesing pairing because maybe this hat was right but the pin was wrong or whatever.
Or Bernadette Banner, but her focus is slightly earlier.
Once we invent holodecks from Star Trek, we can replicate the fabric’s heavy and original weight and that’d be just perfection. 🎩
Surely you mean replicators, not holodecks? Holodecks can programme AI but for you, you would have to replicate costumes to wear.
What about replicators?
We can replicate silk plush top hats :o
@@jamesmnaylor I meant both, I love re-enactments
Great video! Apart from the bit about the missing stiff shirts in the cases of Lord Grantham (this is actually explained in the plot!) and Matthew Crawley (I'd blame it on the wheelchair he's in, being paralysed), I do have to say I am absolutely in love with the white tie ensembles featured in the show. One of Lord Grantham's isn't even featured here: An even more cream-coloured bow tie with one pointed end and a matching silk waistcoat. While that might look a little out of place nowadays, I do believe one could pull off the 20s version he sports, and a very light cream colour.
With reference to detachable collars: My grandparents were born in the early 1890s, and so my grandfather wore detachable collars, as an adult. The reason was not that he wanted to wear a shirt multiple times without laundering. The reason was that with time, a collar would become frayed, from contact with and movement of the neck. The shirt would last for a much longer period of time, without showing such obvious wear. The worn, damaged collar could be disposed of, and the shirt preserved.
The other practical purpose of the detachable collar was that with the widespread use of coal for heating homes, collars were damaged, particularly along the back on the inside. Even wealthy men and their laundresses would have dealt with this problem. After a frustratingly short period of time, the dark stain became permanent. In addition, the pollutants in the air of this time period accelerated the process of fraying. Coal dust blended with sweat, caused an acceleration in fraying. A shirt, protected by a vest and the sleeves of a jacket or coat, would not be damaged in this way. So, with the deatchable collar, my grandparents could avoid the expense of new shirts, every few months.
My grandfather died in 1954, so I never met him. My grandmother lived into the late 1960s so I have a way to know that my grandfather would NOT have worn a shirt multiple times without delivering it for laundering. And my grandfather was not wealthy. He was a county tax accessor, with an office in Pittsburgh, PA. I appreciate this program. The information is fascinating and probably 99.9% accurate. I just think that there is a slight innaccuracy concerning detachable collars.
There was another reason for detachable collars. Shirts were made without a collar at all. I do wish photos could be attached to comments.
It wasn't that long before this time that men's shirts were considered undergarments, and also sleepwear. They were made to last, even if slightly worn or stained. [Not the wealthy ... they'd give their old shirts to the servants.] Collars and cuffs were for show, made from a more attractive fabric and would often be discarded when un-wearable.
For a time, some men wore "celluloid" collars, made of an early plastic! I imagine they were quite uncomfortable, though easy to clean.
I wish you could have devoted more time to the elegant tweed outdoor and shooting suits, which were my favourite menswear in the show. There were scenes where several men appeared together and the tweeds were beautifully coordinated. I love the various full and half Norfolk jackets, which could be a standalone video.
High praise for this vid. Your knowledge and presentation are enviable indeed!
The missus and myself just started a re-watch with ep 1 just last Friday! Since subbing your channel, I see it a LOT differently this time for sure!! LOVE the textiles, the tweeds are fantastic, shooting jackets, chesterfields. The white tie stuff is okay, but those are my work clothes (orch musician). The duties of the valet are fascinating to see. Most of the stuff we're familiar with probably doesn't get going until the 20s (PoW plaids, etc). I do notice the occasional collar gap...but I have a few myself!!
The more I watch this channel, the more I see how much I don’t know. Always something new to learn.
As an old-fashioned suit-wearing chap of 29 (who constantly has to justify his preference for formal clothes), discovering this channel last year has restored some of my faith in humanity.
Expect Raphael to appear in the credits of the next BBC's historical series. Great job and knowledge.
Great to see a fantastic script by Aaron, I love his channel and had almost forgotten that he would be writing for the Gentleman's gazette! more of this please
Literally watching the show right now. Thanks Sven!
Would love to see you lot review Jeeves & Wooster! it's a great show indeedy.
I second!
I really enjoyed this video! I’d definitely watch more if it became a series on this channel.
To me the Lord’s hat is more then just a Homburg with a pinch. It was softer then the Homburg. This is how you get the casual pinch and the brim turned down in the front and back. I have a 1960’s soft Borsalino Homburg that a wear in a Lord’s hat style
Loved this 👍 👌 Would love a Peaky Blinders version 👌 Particularly Luca Changretta
Shank buttoning was a thing since the early 1910's but did aperture much more in novelty wear and casual single button suits
Always here before the official release 👍
Yes today no one dresses elegant.that was a nice review of period clothing,thanks
Very timely video! Just started the show and am currently on season 2!
This is excellent analys. Great watch indeed
I lean towards historical information and I just loved this video. You did a wonderful job.
I love the history as well. The way our society is bickering lately, I look for good escapes. Just found this one. Have too many to follow now. I just go where my mood takes me, or my time allows.
Please do "the crown".
I hope you do every version of Sherlock Holmes and Poirot
If you were to analyze Chernobyl series I could send you some soviet ties for the outfit rundown 😝
Great videos on fashions for shows and movies.I hope that someone from the industry is watching and taking notes and pointers. They could learn a lot from you.
Finally!!
Great video. 👍👍
Amazing ! This is just so interesting.
Considering Lord Grantham had to clothe 4 Ladies, of course he wouldn't necessarily have latest fashion. It seemed in the first season, it was Sibyl's turn to go to the dressmakers.
Thank you. Film fashion review. I love it.
Great video! I am looking forward to The Gentlemen (2019) analysis
Interesting, but some points are not altogether accurate. Keep in mind that suitings were, and still are, available in different weights, meaning clothes were rotated in and out of use by the season. In Episode 1 this is explained to Bates by Thomas. Yorkshire was home to a huge weaving trade, so what the Earl wanted, the Earl could find close to home. The heavy, winter weight suiting is still available, but to be realistic, it would likely be too heavy to be worn under the lights. Comparing the daytime clothes on the men to family photos of the vintage, the suiting and finish of the fabrics is about as close as one could reasonably expect. On set, the heaviest of the fabrics would be a spring/fall weight, to be worn when a scene was set in winter.
You make a good point about standing under the lights for long periods. Also, the shooting schedule wouldn’t necessarily allow for washing garments, so the wardrobe department wouldn’t want the actors to sweat much. And one would sweat a lot wearing a heavy-weight tweed indoors while standing under lights in a room full of people. Practicality is also a concern in any film production.
You should review Jeeves and Wooster, phenomenal television series with excellent examples of classic menswear.
The homburg hat worn by Lord Grantham was fantastic. Very accurate for that period and close to what Edward VII used to wear. Brim curl is more accentuated and it looks a lot narrower/pinched and slightly taller. The photo with Kaiser Wilhelm II is the most original style of Homburg hat I imagine, as it was used for hunting.
Excellent video as always! Quick question for you gentleman. I recently got a few Jackets as gifts all of them being suit seperates however one is a Dark shade of Blue with the fabric being 80% Wool and 15% Linen. Does that mean it's meant to be a hot weather Jacket because it has a bit of Linen or is it still suitable for more mild weather as well? I'm new to the whole suit seperate concept so am still learning along the way. Keep up the good work!
Downton Abbey is no “Upstairs, Downstairs”, though. Much better at showing the problems of the time. Even the sequel hasn’t extended into the effects of the 1929 Wall Street Crash, when a Lord Grantham might have been wiped out, and Lady Grantham’s brother certainly would have been.
The new film may though.
I really enjoyed this. I was surprised at how interesting the small details are, like how the seam sits behind the shoulder during a certain period. I would imagine the clothes worn for mourning weren't worn as often and thus might be more outdated, but nevertheless make do. I used to watch my dad get ready for work ..so meticulous in his preparation. I miss him. The presenter is very photogenic and should be the village tailor if another period piece comes along.
Great video as always ! Next, could review the movie TENET & their take on the modern gentleman if possible ?
Again a great video, would you consider doing a video on classic Western wear, or classic luggage (trunks/bags)? What kind of luggage do you prefer?
It would be interesting.
Great analysis! I'd love to hear your thoughts on Agatha Christie's Poirot (with David Suchet) and their costumes
Idk if anyone noticed this but the Turkish character "Kemal Pamuk" is given the surname "Pamuk". However, surnames weren't used in Turkey till mid-thirties. Yes, Pamuk is a real Turkish surname but no Turk would be using surnames in 1912.
Arron White's channel is excellent source of knowledge but he dose have this disclaimer as quoted bellow.
"Disclaimers:
The Antique Menswear channel strives for accuracy in our videos, drawing information from reliable primary and secondary sources, fact checking and partaking in peer reviews of our scripts. We do, however, recognize that we may miss some information or make mistakes simply due to the nature of the subject of men's clothing being vague and not well documented, as well as new information that may surface, rendering information in the video invalid. However, we do our best and fully believe, with the best intentions, that all the information presented in our videos are accurate."
So it always pays to do your own research and not just take in what we are spoon feed as being gospel on the subject.
That said this is a well thought out and presented video presentation, even if I have to disagree with the Gentlemen's gazette on a few minor points.
But I would loved to been in the meeting when they were doing the budget for Downton Abbey and then trying to allocate the money for various departments to spend. Imagine having to make the decision on what to make and how or to find an original piece or pattern of clothing to work with and what corners to cut.
Please can we have more of these high quality in-depth videos. These are the ones that the Gentlemen's gazette tend to be really good at.
Would love to see you lot review Peaky Blinders
I love this video! I'm no historical fashion expert but some of the menswear seemed ill-fitting, and some poorly tailored and/or sewn. I do know quite a bit about military uniforms and sometimes Lord Grantham appears with his belt and/or tie crooked, which no military man would do. Also the cut of his army tunic looked a bit modern.
I've got a question, should I avoid tuxedos without a boutonniere hole, because I have been looking at vintage ones, thanks
Oh this is gonna be So good
Can you please cover other Period Dramas too? Titanic, Gosford Park, A Room With A View, The Wings Of A Dove, etc are some good suggestions.
Hallo. Schöne Grüße aus deiner Heimat Deutschland. Mir gefällt dein Kanal sehr gut. Klasse Ideen für den perfekten Gentleman. 👍
You should have a look at the short series "the english game" it is also by Julian Fellows, it is great to see the contrast between the working, middle and upper classes.
Mr. Schneider, Fort Belvedere expansion idea:
Rediscover Silk Plush and expand into Top Hat production.
As much as I would love that, making silk plush requires owning an entire production process and all relevant facilities. Materials are difficult to make. This process would be extraordinarily expensive for very little returns. That's why I don't think we'll ever see silk plush being manufactured again.
Would like to see Raphael get a hair system for his receding hairline, do tutorials, and then even market them. Big dollars in that.
Next do Boardwalk Empire!!
Since Raphael prefers the Homburg to the Fedora it would be really helpful if I knew where to get my hands on Homburgs. I want to wear those hat types as well but they are either super hard to find online or I dont properly research. ^^
22:42 there exists wrong caption which describes "Cora" as "Violet".
I was a bit disappointed nobody wore frock coats in this show
Aye I wish someone would do a video on the them, as I love them and I think they're very underloved in men's fashion.
@@fredbreadbun6277 Years ago I saw a guy wearing a very elegant frock coat with a silk top hat at Royal Ascot. The overall look was fantastic.
@@russ9921 I am sure it was I glad to see some recent use of this rather elegant garment I wish would receive more love from the classic menswear community. Thank you for sharing.
Please review Indian Summers
Please do Only Fools and Horses. Delboy is a cool dresser, if a bit loud at times.
😃
My god the lime green pjs.
@@jamesmnaylor With the dragon...
@@krunoslavkovacec1842 and the fluffy slippers.
This was great. Can we do Agatha Christie’s Poirot?
Please consider reviewing ensembles from Fantastic Beasts (both 1 and 2). You might find the garments in these films rather interesting. It would be fascinating to watch.
The clothing is pretty much the only thing I enjoy about those movies. Quite sad really.
I always enjoy these videos, thanks. Even though you are right about the fabrics being modern it's obviously impossible for the creators to weave their own fabrics for the hundred of costumes in the show. So I don't think it's really a very relevant criticism.
It's relevant. But it's not something to blame anybody for
Some shows have woven their own fabrics; it's not impossible, it is expensive.
Can you do video about Al Capone style
The dog is walking down the stairs on Grantham’s wrong side, unless he is meant to be left-handed.
Since you are Brazilian born, it would be interesting you make the same video but about some "sope opera" novels of Globo. The big landowners from last century had a French education, and nobody would ever see a true one of them celebtrating the wedding of their daughters eating and dressing like an American, as Globo did in "Terra Nostra", which shows the struggle between the ancient Brazilian landowners and the Italian immigrants who made money there.
How about a review of Mr. Selfridge or The Knick?
Wonder what GG would say about how Jeremy Brett dressed as Sherlock Holmes. That's the gentleman style in my opinion
You don’t see as many double-breasted suits for everyday characters in media because in film language that style has become shorthand for mafiosi
Can you do a video on boardwalk empire
Very good video. Dalton Abbey is one of my favs, of course. But I do think that the heavier weight garments of that time made for a much better drape. They were usually 30 oz; today, we are around 12 or so. But heating systems and indeed the earth's temperature has changed. But the heavier fabrics draper much, much better. Much more of a formal look. I too like the heavy, starched collars and cuffs. Much better than flimsy cotton. But great video, and we all appreciate it!!!!!!
Thanks so much, splendid video! One thing I noticed a while ago, that I thought you'd might comment on at 14:04 : Matthew is wearing a double-breasted jacket with a vest. Was that usual back then? Because today it would be considered "wrong", as it makes you overheat too quickly, wouldn't it? All best from Germany!
I'm late to the answer here, but three-piece double breasted suits were seen until I believe the start of WWII. This is because indoor heating didn't exist back then, so having a waistcoat during the winter was very helpful. When WWII started, fabric rationing began, meaning three-piece suits became a lot less prevelant. After WWII, style became more casual, indoor heating was invented, and with the counterculture revolution of the '60s, the three piece double breasted suit was killed off. They're still available today from some specialty retailers, and aren't considered a faux-pas.
I was wondering why there were no wind turbines at 12:11. M.
Don't excuse yourself for nitpicking: we are here for that.
Dijo una vez un gran hombre "No te tomes la vida enserio, al fin y al cabo no saldrás vivo de ella".
"Oh, I'm sorry; I thought you were a waiter."
Dame Maggie Smith casting more shade than a redwood tree 😂
Just curious -- Is "valet" really pronounced with a hard T?
I would suggest that every „inaccuracy“ here is intentional because it‘s an artistic statement. As in every film/series/theatre costume...
I'm curious. Did royalty in the Downton Abbey movie dress better. Historically, they should have been the best dressed people in the room.
The Labrador dog looks much too modern too -- not at all like the Munden or Buccleuch or Braeroy bloodlines that a manor house would have had in their kennels. (The historic type is still widespread in America, but extinct in Britain.)
It would and interesting for all understand in French
How did you know I live under a rock? It's odd all the togas that are donned once the staff goes to sleep were never depicted.
Would have like to see more on the sporting clothes( as some already mentioned) and commentary on the awful spey casting. A fedora instead of a deerstalker what horror.
Compare it to "The House of Elliot"?
I can rock frock coat and top 🎩
The to.
los miembros de la comunidad hispana les agradeceríamos que tradujeran este vídeo
The best dressed character in this Show are The Dogs Isis,Pharaoh and Teo
TV antennas in The Early 20th Century were not uncommon as The Martians that live amongst us don't like to miss Judge Judy reruns.
Por favor en español
You have mistaken a choice to convey his lack of a competent valet for an inaccuracy.
His pocket square was intentionally folded improperly to show he didn't have a trained valet, same with small fashion mistakes when he had Thomas Barrows waiting on him. It was to display that he needed a correct valet who was trained.
Please make a video about girls dress
TH-cam search for Bernadette Banner and Karolina Zabrowska.
I guess I live under a rock because I didn't know about this show...or maybe I am just a peasant who is uninterested in owning a TV set.
Did someone get a fresh hair cut?!
but did they ever wear anything comfortable?
Don’t even go there. The people in charge of the costumes for the show were experts on the clothes of that period.
If this doesn't convince period movie/film studios to hire the Gentleman's Gazette, I don't know what will🤷🏻♂️