Woolwax Undercoating 1 Year Review: Is it Really Better Than Fluid Film?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video we show you how well the Woolwax application has held up over the past year on the shop truck.
Here's the Original Woolwax application video-
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Here's the Original Woolwax application video-
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Woolwax Kit I Recommend-
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Every time I watch your videos. I learn something new. Thanks for your work brother.
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Just bought this kit a couple weeks ago! Just need to apply it over the weekend.
I have a 2004 f150 fx4 4x4 5.4 V8 the overdrive light keeps flashing only with its in park it doesn't do it when I'm going down the road I love watching your videos because you have a lot if great tips can you help me out with this problem
I was wondering if you can give me some advice with a 2017 ford explorer that is giving me some problems.. we verly got it from ford but they seem to not care and dont fix anything ... hope you can help me
The leaking rear main seal on my fox body has worked great as undercoating for the last 30 years 😉
same with my 66 mustang
nice!
Works great one my 77 Versailles to and the car does all the appling.
I see I'm not the only one who uses that undercoating😬. Just doesn't seem to get the rocker panels covered well 😕.
@@robertschneider1977 drill some holes in the bellhousing so the flywheel can sling it and spread it more for you lol
I used it on my F-150, worked great. Just makes for a messy day next time you work under the truck.
Which is within a few days since it’s a Ford.
@@fsu3784 2010 F-150 with 128,000 miles, a few small issues but nothing major.
I just replaced tie rods and a lower ball joint on my car a few weeks after undercoating it and it was a mess. Make sure you replace everything that needs to be replaced before undercoating and you'll be fine
In Chicago we have to offer one of our cars up to the SALT GODS.
Man, it looks like 10+-year-old cars we see down here in Houston LOL
Used to bring cars back from North Carolina. 20 year old cars would look like 2 year Chicago cars. They sold fast .
All boil base Rust protection is supposed to be sprayed into the inside of the Box frame as well
Up here in PEI eastern Canada 🇨🇦 I use fluid film and it works equally as well which ever you choose its better than nothing eh
9 months into my old Saab and Most of its still there. Going to re-roll it in a few months and then spray the other areas after that. It’s worth it although my mechanic thinks it’s stupid.
I am from Chicago Great job
Nice. I'd only recommend spraying that spare tire on both sides. Also, it's probably a good idea to spray or lubricate the system that drops spare too. I've seen people struggle to get their spare tire down after years of rusting.
I've been using WOOLWAX for a couple of years on my truck in the snowy state of WV. Woolwax stays on so much better than fluid film. I applied woolwax to my truck n fluid film to my car n the fluid film was off in about 3 months. Woolwax for the BIG WIN! GREAT PRODUCT!
Can you run your vehicle through the car wash after applying the wool wax?
Hey Brian it would be really awesome if you did a video on rear main seal for the 04-08’s maybe your shop truck needs one. I just can’t find a thorough videos like yours. Sincerely one of your og fans!!
Thanks for the update, Brian. Looks like that stuff held up really well and your truck will survive life in the rust belt. Keep up the good work.
old cars ive worked look a bit like that , everything with an oily sheen everywhere LOL. lanolin works well used it for years.
We used the clear WoolWax on a 2000 E250 van that is pretty well rusted and it held up since last fall. Great product.
Does it seem to retard the progress of corrosion? I was thinking of applying this to my plow truck which has already seen 35 winters in PA and NY. I apply fluid film to the plow already to keep junk from sticking, kind of like olive oil or butter for a pan.
@@workingcountry1776 yes, it does appear to stop rust in its tracks. The key would probably be to keep corroded surfaces covered. I think Woolwax is better at clinging to metal because if it’s viscosity.
@@TheNortheastAl FF is available at NAPA and Advance Auto Parts so that's what im using this year. If shipping is reasonable I might try woolwax brand next season. I am in the process of installing floor pan and some patch panels to keep the old pig safe til I find a southern cab for it. Funny, frame is super solid with surface rust but body is typical rot
Mercedes has been doing wax undercoating for over 40 years. Germans know about snow conditions and build cars to last.
Lol no they don't. Those pieces of garbage rust out like hell here in the rust belt.
@@alexklein455Everything will rust in the rust belt 😂A German car body will outlast American or Japanese car car there
Woolwax product, not baaaaaad! 😖
Brian, ScannerDanner just did a video of a F350 digital MAF showing 0V on SnapOn scanner after damaged harness repair. Everything works fine but the scanner showing 0V was a real red herring. Be cool if you could provide your input, thanks! Paul agrees!
I watched that video. The problem is aftermarket scan tools, even snap-on give false data quite often. It takes a good tech to know when the readings are impossible and to not go down the wrong rabbit hole. If you watched the whole video that particular MAF is a frequency based MAF which is not normal for a FORD product. The snap-on software isn't set up for Frequency MAFs on a FORD product.
Thanks! Good points.
My father hipped me to Woolwax over 50 years ago, as he used to perform undercoating services at his Shell service stations, back in Michigan. Great stuff! I have applied it to every vehicle I have ever owned and never regretted it.
NiCE !!!
Do u clean the rust prior to applying woolwax? Some people are saying to just spray it over which i dont like that idea
@@andyl9920 its likely best to have a 'clean' surface... from some experimenting i did a year or two ago on a delaminating Gen7 Corolla rear subframe, i sprayed WW onit then checked back a half year later with some intresting results.... ALL of the protective OEM paint coating on that subframe part that had not flaked off was NOW easily removable with a knife to the bare metal... i used some spray to hopefully completely clean and supposedly completely dry the surface and reapplied the WW
@@andyl9920 You would want to remove any scale or light surface crud, but otherwise it applies over existing rust to seal the metal from air contact, thereby stopping the corrosion process. It creeps/seeps into crevices for great coverage, as well.
Thank you for passing along your knowledge. I enjoy your content. A couple of thoughts...I would spray both sides of the spare, especially, the bead to prevent corrosion and leaks. Also, I wouldn't get hung up on using the black products. These lanolin products get dirty and turn dark on their own. When I work on it, I don't want that black dye getting all over me. I am sure other mechanics would think the same thing.
I have been waiting for this. :)
Thank you for this video. I live in Maine and just got a Sierra with surface rust all over the undercarriage. This has helped me decide on wool wax.
Wow!! I just bought a kit from Woolwax for my Explorer I bought last month. 2003 Sport XLT, one owner, Wisconsin car it's entire life, only 55K miles! It looks almost mint underneath and I wanted to keep it that way. Glad to see that this product holds up really well!
You got lucky with that one. I'm in Madison and my 2000 f150 is starting to get pretty bad. Granted it lives outside and has almost 200k miles. It'll rust in half before it stops running though
I just did the bottom of my 04 Grand Cherokee with this stuff. Glad to see it sticks around pretty good. I really tried to get a lot into the unibody "frame rails" though the various holes they have. In Detroit area, I certainly feel your pain when it comes to salt encrusted vehicles.
Looks Good! Wish that product was available 60 years ago
Ziebart is rubberized garbage, it traps moisture, go for the fluid film or proform oil based
Fluid Film FTW !!!! This stuff really works and I'm in RI it's saving my 06 Ranger.
How does it look today?
@@anthonyjulson8840 like it did the day I first applied it. Stuff is great.
How long you been using it?
@@anthonyjulson8840 gotta be 5 years now since the 1st app still going strong.
Just sprayed my ‘14 Sequoia tonight. I used Fluid Film on my ‘06 Explorer, still looks like new.
OK - it's been a year, and the truck appears relatively new.
But....how many miles did yo put in that year? Where are you, and how much salt is used on your roads?
What's your thoughts on the gas 7.3 & ten speed transmission on the 2020 F250/F350?
Hey Go for it. That 7.3 Godzilla motor
$209! My last car only cost $400
Drive down the dustiest road you can find after applying, works amazing
Dust and dirt makes a nice coating and holds it always drive on a dusty dry road after
So is it really better than Fluid Film?!
How much did you use? Thinking about getting a gallon for my 4runner but wondering if ill need 2
I probably overdone it, but I used approx 8 Qts to do a Hyundai Accent. I sprayed approx. a gallon up into the rocker panels and the holes in the unibody/frame and the rest on the underbody. I look at it like the Woolwax is cheap compared to the cost of a new vehicle, so if a few gallons of Woolwax will protect my vehicle and let me drive it for an extra 5+ yrs, I'm saving a lot of money.
Did you pull all the plugs and shoot in all the crevices when you did the original application? I just did a 2021GMC Acadia and took the outer wheel wells out and all the plugs, removed the wheels and protected all the brakes. It took about 5.5 hrs to do that, apply the material and then put everything back together. Maybe the best thing is to just watch your application video.
I use both Fluid Film and WoolWax. Spray Fluid Film first in August. It creeps really well in the heat. Then a month later come back and topcoat with WoolWax. I spray both on liberally. Buy it in the 5 gallon pails and you are set for a few years for touchups.
How often do you wash your truck, especially in the winter? Do you use an automatic wash with undercarriage wash? Thank you!
I know something that works even better than any of those , just move to Florida
You know what is cheaper and works better than moving to Florida? Getting a beater car for the winter.
I just sprayed mine with wool wax about a week ago after watching your video. It turned out pretty good and seems to be holding up great so far! Thanks
Hey apply my truck never get drying
Thanks for the update. Lots of salt in use here so this was important to me. You pay a lot of money for a vehicle today you really need to take care of it.
As always a great video
Better to do something rather than nothing.
unless that something is Ziebart.
That's not what my probation officer says!
Woolwax or FF is probably THE best thing you could do though lol.
Yes nice great. I have two cans of FF. Just purchased the FF spray gun (finally in stock here) ... NOw I just need a truck that isn't rusty xD
I'll tell you what's good in Chicago that's Chicago-style pizza
Could use some of that grease from the pan, on the truck! Would smell better 😃
Undercoating only seems to work unless you live in states that use heavy salt in the roads like NY. Doesn’t matter what you do in NY, your car is going to disintegrate.
Good review, are you going to apply another coat?
No it is holding up very well.
Fluid Film and Surface Shield 🛡️ are made thinner to creep more in to areas you can't get to .
Surface Shield 🛡️ says the product is good for two years.
Who knows
I hope Toyota is watching.
Do you have any videos of your lift cause I’m planning on get one and what to see what brand is best I’m between Bendpak and Forward/Rotary
Add a canister under hood run small rubber lines under body, fill canister transmission fluid, open valve canistee. Drive. Works great
WOW! I'm impressed with that. And it goes without saying, infinitely better than rubberized undercoating.
You mean rust causer? LOL rubber stuff is what used car dealers spray over rust to hide it and people not in the auto industry go; "gee look, its clean underneath"
@@workingcountry1776 right that happen to me
Any plastic underbody and wheel well shield kits for Ford trucks? It would save the yearly undercoating and reduce noise.
Looks like the body mount at 3:40 missing the nut?
no
The bottom piece of the mount is threaded
FordTechMakuloco good to hear from you again.
This is random but could you do a video or tips for doing a leveling kit for 06 f150? And what tires would you recommend?
That looks very good. Would you say this truck saw Salt and Brine on a regular basis during the time this product was on the vehicle?
last winter yes.
Good to use something better than nothing! I also like to use fluid film and or woolwax. I just finished putting fluid film a few days ago on my 2016 Chevy Silverado 2500hd because I couldn’t wait any longer to do it and good thing I did because it just snowed today so I picked up only a gallon to touch it up because it had not much missing. On our other truck 2015 GMC Sierra 3500hd Denali dually we will order the woolwax eventually and spray it on. 👍
Hey, thanks for the update, and not leaving us hanging. Their current metal protection process by the manufacturer obviously falls short, but it gets the vehicles through the warranty. It would be worth it to pay extra to have a superior coating applied during the build for complete coverage and longer lasting. But it's all about costs and pre-determined obsolencence. Got to sell those parts and that labor. Thanks for the video.
nope..they want to sell you a whole new car.
Sweet, I'm bringing my 2011 crown vic police Interceptor for this. 😎👍
We just had our vehicles done with Krown. Hopefully it was worth it.
Thanks for the update. Great product.
When you get your second bay installed do you think that’s gonna cut your week long waiting period in half?
Week long? We are at a month right now.
Hahaha, any good mechanic/technician is easily 3-4 weeks behind. If I was a week behind i would probably take a vacation as that would be the most caught up I have been in years.
As a fellow mechanic who uses NH Oil, how do you feel about working on cars covered in this stuff. It definitely adds it's own level of issues touching stuff. What's your opinion?
It's horrible, luckily they are few and far.
Hey I’m going to engine swap my Ford F-150 and going to put a 07 ford engine should I replace the transmission as well it would it fit perfect I’ve look in your vids and you look like someone that knows
I have a 04
Krown T-40 is another great product. Spray that S#$% everywhere underneath.
On my 07 f150 I coated everything with e40 and let it sit a couple hours before pressure washing it off with hot water and then hot soap, and then hot water again, then the next day when it was completely dry I went under with a wire wheel on the end of my drill and got all the main areas and spots of rust left, then pressure washed with hot soap followed by hot water at the carwash, once it was dry I hit the underneath the while truck with rustoleum rust reformer and seal flat black, and then after it dried some I went over the top of that with rustoleum rust stop gloss enamel spray paint, both cans are only 5 bucks each and it's been 2 years now with no issues, but before each winter I go back underneath and touch it up in areas with the rustoleum stop rust gloss black enamel just to keep up on it, haven't had any problems and the maintenance on the following year was way less work then the initial prep and spray the first time. Plus it's way cheaper then por15 and that big air compressor in the video 😂 thanks so much for the videos! It's my first truck and I'm not a mechanic at all but I've watched your videos and been able to fix any problems I've had. Fixed, MAS, Throttle body, IAC, VCT solenoid before it needed it because I wasnt doing all that timing chain stuff lol thank you sir! You're saving a f150 in Washington state and you dont even know it 👍
Oh and I'm doing the new oil pump soon too, no problems yet but still going to anyways
It is good
Holding up well Brian, thanks for the update!
Agree. Has held up real well considering your regions harsh weather environment. Can’t say I can relate as I’m in the south west desert (Texas). Great product you used to protect your investment
You didn't answer the question, is it better than Fluid Film?
Perhaps you were supposed to decide for yourself after some research of your own?
I have a 2013 F150 with 290,xxx miles.
I've had the truck since new, 4 miles on the odometer. I've lived in upstate NY, Denver, Massachusetts and New Hampshire since purchasing the truck.
Its been sprayed with chainsaw bar & chain oil 4 or 5 times.
Looks much better than fluid film or Woolwax.
Bar & chain oil holds up way better, less washout in nearly every area he had trouble. It seeps and creeps and self-heals very well.
Costs about $12-15 per gallon versus $50+ and sprays very well out of a fluid film gun.
The dust cakes onto the oil and actually looks like rhino lining over time.
Try it out sometime
I would say anything oil based etc is good. The one thing to avoid is rubberised stuff. It’s totally useless and makes the problem worse!
What are your thoughts on ValueGuard spray?
All this stuff is good but it makes a greasy mess when you have to work under those vehicles,just saying!
Yup it’s sheep grease!
Thanks for update Brian
Hi Dear @FordTechMakuloco
I’ll be in need to you’re assistance Please !
maybe its Sound Stupid but honestly the dealer her says replace Trans without checking any thing .
in this country unfortunately No one has any idea how to fix FORD or any American Vehicles . Thant’s why I need your Assistance Please .
ill Brief :
I bought used 2009 Explorer 4X4 month Ago .
The only issue was ( Harsh engagement from R to D ) No other issues at all - All Gears Shifting is OK .
I went to dealer ( Transmission Mount Checked ok ) ( Flued was a bit bad but Not Burnt )
Engine Thermostat For Some Reason Was Removed .
- “ Trans” Oil + Filter Changed . ( But R to D Still Harsh Engagement with slight Delay )
1 month driving every thing OK ! ( 100 mile daily Driving - 30 days )
- I re-installed Thermostat ( 2 days back ) - went for log drive around 100 miles . Engine Temp. was 89-92 degree
95 miles every thing ok . Then :
- Suddenly 5th Gear RPM went UP , 5th Gear Gone
- 4th Gear High RPM .. 1 minute then Gone
- 3rd Gear .. 1 minute Then Gone
- 2ng Gear Stayed for 4 min at high RPM then Gone
- 1st gear is ok for 2 min then Gone .
- Turned Off the Vehicle Turned it on to cool down after 2 min 1st gear Engaged with delay to 2nd gear with delay … SLIP SLIP . no more gears .
I keep driving 1st and 2nd gears while trying to cool down the transmission every 3 minutes . ( 5 miles Total )
Reached Home , Parked and shut it off .
Next Day Turn it on ( harsh Torque converter sound ) R and D are engaging for 20 second then gone .
I asked a Computer Guy to come and Check .
I have attached the Errors for you to see .
*P1705:00* : ODDTCs : TR(Transmission range) sensor out of read codes range
*P0741:FF* : CMDTCs : TCC(Torque Converter Clutch Control Solenoid) System Performance. Torque converted slip is greater than expected .
*P1783:FF* : CMDTCs : Transmission OverTemperature Condition .
Thank You in Advance .
i have emailed you the same .
seems like a win..maybe next time take out your tailights and with a long air gun blow out over the back wheels ,,then apply some of this stuff through the tailight opening and coat it good over the rear wheels..i just did my 04 ranger with fluid film...we will see how it holds up here in pa
Yup I did all of that in the original application video.
I'm going to experiment with my own undercoat for my rusted out 1991 F-350. Charcoal and automatic transmission fluid! I need something to penetrate the crusty crevices and slow down the ford process.
Great info...going back to your previous woolwax vid.
why is there no echo on the first DUN DUN DUN DUN DUN DUN
There is an anti-rust wax chemical sold in UK called _"Waxoyl"_ that is either shop applied or DIY. It's supposed to be good.
Hey I used Waxoyl on my 89 K5 Blazer after giving it an extremely good cleaning. That was 15 years ago. No rusting as it was the day I first got it. It’s excellent product underbody and cavity wax. You heat or warm it up and spray. Now I recently used Woolwax on my new Ram.
Glad to see it's holding up - I know I asked last year when the original application was done, but are you considering offering this as a service? Obviously it's not as comprehensive as going to a place like Krown would be, but we know just what Chicago does to brake lines, subframes and the like. I just don't see an effective way I could get under a car like the Mustang well enough at home.
Ok looks decent for just one year though? The last and final time I ever “rust proofed” a car/truck I bought new was in 1978, with a new Scout II TERRA truck. I had Ziebart applied the day I picked it up. Fast forward just 5 years and rust through both rockers, rear wheel wells, that Ziebart refused to honor their warranty, because they found beach sand under the truck! Within two more years the tailgate was falling off and forget about passing inspection! Holes in the floor, and ever body panel! Even the windshield frame! I ended up selling it to a friend with only 72,000 trouble free miles. He removed the body, then placed a 1969 LeMans Safari Wagon body over it! That is still running to this day!
One of the local shops near me, complained about my undercoat. He says it's a mess to work on. He joked that I should be charged extra. He thinks it's a waste of money. I haven't been back, since those comments. I have been reading about Waxoyl. It's thicker and insanely popular in Europe.
It is a mess to work on but the product works sooo well.
It is a mess to work on but a few shop towels and half a can of break kleen is better than having to deal with the rust and frozen fasteners, rusted fasteners breaking, etc
Looks Good, Well worth it. Thanks for sharing.
I’m actually impressed what fluid film and surface shield can do and I’m even impressed with this wool wax. I used to spend 600 or more and go yearly for touch ups. I spent 150 on a kit and do mine twice a year. The 2nd time I just give it a quick once over. My truck has held up really good and still looks factory after 3 years. I’m even doing other people vehicle making some side money I get better better at it each year. Most people don’t even think about the inside of the frame. You can even use this stuff to clean chrome just gotta do thin layer wipe of real good. Helps preserve chrome and other metal surfaces.
Didn't need to watch this because I've used it and it's great. Had my shop spray all the body cavities as well, all the underside including the exhaust, all around in the engine bay. Doesn't burn, stays "fluid", creeps into cracks and crevices, and sticks like heck. Every two years give the underside a recoat and that's it. All for $50 a gallon which will do all but the largest cars
Bro I have a stupid question, but can I swap 5 speeds manual transmission from 08 XL model to 5.4l triton XLT
I am here because I purchased 2 55 gallon barrels for composting and these barrels were used to contain woolwax. So I decided to check it out. The little bits left over in the barrels have a milky color to it.
It seems to work really good but the only down side I see is it makes everything dirty. Imagine 10 years of applying woolwax once a year.
So my question is how is it to work on a car that gets sprayed with woolwax?
I would assume you must get really dirty from my experience cleaning out these barrels it is a pia to remove. You have use a solvent and a lot of it.
In my opinion if you are going to service your rust once a year might as well use something that will dry so you have to deal with all that dirtyness when you work on the vehicle.
If anyone has a counter to what I am saying please share.
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see the question get answered. Is it actually better than Fluid Film?
6:40, says it "held up pretty darn good"...
@@DD-wn9uy ok. that still doesn't answer the question. Fluid Film holds up well too.
I think he said they're very similar, but FF is thinner and has a stronger odor. Those are the main differences.
I really feel for you all back east and such, here in the sacramento valley we get no snow or salt... So very little rust issues...
That, and in places in the western US that do get snow like in the Sierras and the Cascades, they use sand on the roads not salt.
Did you try getting up inside rear wells where arch or tub meets the outer bed in the rear wheel wells? Im putting more 3M cavity wax using their wands that work great in my 150 tomorrow, already did the rockers and used gorilla tape where the "factory" tape was, over 16 holes!!!
Heh Malaucka, How about doing a video about undercarriage rust and what not. Seems to be a pretty hot topic these days with the F150 crowd. Maybe do a step by step how to in order to help your Channel view viewers and subscribers. We all would love how to do that, and we're counting on you to help us.
I am getting Krown next week. The Krown folks say that spring is the best time to apply because rust actually happens when it warms up. Anything is better than nothing and for the cost of these rust coatings vs rust repair down the road it's worth it. ❤
I have a 2008 F150 5.4 3V, my truck turns over when cold. But, in between driving here and there the truck is hard to turn over. It sounds like it wants to turn over, but it doesn’t and kind of chokes into turning over. And sometimes I just turn it off and turn it back on and starts right up. Don’t know what it could be?
Talk to convince is cheap. One year much too short a time! Not what I’ve had best experience with. 1970’s I it was thick spray-on - maybe asphalt based.
for anybody reading this especially F-150 owners... Don't forget to spray the wool wax on the spare wheel itself because it's common for the wheel to get very rusty and on my F-150 it rusted so bad that a pinhole developed and the spare tire would no longer hold air.... I put wool wax on it and it should never be a problem anymore
Thank you for showing your Holidays. I did Fluid Film on my E250 in my driveway on my back. I know i missed some crucial areas. Get them in the summer.
My brother had his timing chains and water pump replaced on his 2012 f150 3.5l eco. Now it over heats. They have replaced the water pump three times now and this has been going on for over two months. Please help.
I have a 2012 F150 5.0 l with a cooling issue while Towing my boat temperature wants to climb pretty high changed water pump thermostat still have the same problem this only happens when I get on the interstate and try to go 70 miles per hour if I stay at 55 miles per hour to 60 miles per hour no issue any help would be greatly appreciated thank you
Is it worth 900 dollars with free life time touch ups i have a 2023 ram 1500 thats what that are charging me they due in side of the door panels in side of the bed undee the hood in side of everywhere they can get to im told it will take them 8 hours to do it i live in Pennsylvania so we have some nasty winters like you do
Dumb question. Do we need to clean off the rust or corrosion prior to applying the Woolwax?
Just the heavy stuff.
We shouldn't need to apply these aftermarket products on brand new trucks to prevent the frames and chassis components from rusting. Ford needs to step it up with their coatings and steel quality.
All vehicle brands need a coating like this to prevent rust especially with them throwing brine now. It's kind of like ships on the ocean, they are coated with the best rust proofing paint made for marine conditions yet still need rust remediation after a short period of time, its part of being the salt belt of America.
I haven’t seen a vehicle brand yet that doesn’t rust out unless substantial effort is put into it to stop rust, such as this product. I think Subaru does the best job however at preventing rust of all manufactures
Unfortunately gm still has decided not to e coat their frames and the wax they dip the raw metal frames in does not hold up for long hence the reason i woolwaxed my new 2021 denali trying to keep it from getting the cancer