I just sold my 2019 F450 that was professionally coated inside and out with Wool Wax. One application lasted 5 years+. The only rust was where the springs rub together or where the WW evaporated from heat, the differential mainly. If it was powerwashed, it would look as it did the day it came off the truck.
I originally wanted to go with Surface Shield but it was unavailable in either 5 gallon or gallon containers so I went with Woolwax and have been impressed with its performance. After spraying both vehicles last winter, the majority of it still remained until this fall when it was time to spray them again for the upcoming winter. It is definitely a pain to work with after spraying, so I would recommend getting all the work you intend on doing done before spraying but once you spray it, it should be good for the winter. The best time to spray is during the hot part of the year so it has time to creep.
That's a great point. Warmer weather will allow it to creep more. I usually try to get mine done in late August, early September. If you ever need to remove the undercoating, I've found that diesel fuel sprayed on with a spritzer bottle and a plastic bristle brush works good to loosen it. Then wipe it off or pressure wash it. If someone knows of a better way, please chime in.
I used a 8 gallon compressor that's puts out between 3-4scfm. It works, but it runs constantly and it builds up a ton of moisture in the tank. I would recommend something bigger.
Your car looks well protected. We have this in the UK under the trade names of "Lanoguard" and "Lanocare" etc Generally well received. DIYers like it as it is very quick and easy to apply and needs little preparation. It can also be sprayed into box sections and doors etc.
I used to use an English product, WaxOyl, on my Volvo and Land Rover in Iceland. It seemed very similar to Wool Wax in the US. It was the old thing that could keep my Disco2 from rusting to bits.
Question for ya... after treatment do you use a carwash at all or just hand washing? Want to see if it is even worth applying if using commercial car washes
You really have to work at it with a car wash in order to wash it off. It's pretty resistant. That's one of the advantages to Woolwax over some other brands.
@@christopher_shaffer this regular WW did NOT stay on the high-wash areas such as the rear wheelhouse area under my testing... i sprayed this (used the spray cans) on my truck frame in that rear area then had a cross-state drive through IOWA (over 200 miles) in a hard constant rain (heavy constant roadwash)...and most ALL of it washed off... BUT!! the section that I had applied the WW HV (high viscosity) that i brushed on stayed put AND has stayed put for over 3 years now with no touchup necessary... it is caked in layers of dirt and road crud LOL but is still on there in the very high roadwash area after more than 100k miles
@efil4kizum Good to know. I have only used WW from the gallon cans. I imagine the WW on the spray cans must be a thinner viscosity, but again, I have no experience with them. On the other hand, I have used FF in the spray cans, and that does go on pretty thin. It's great for migrating into lap joints and pinch seems though.
I haven't used the LV yet, but it seems like it would be a good option for those really hard to reach places like inside doors, rockers, etc. Especially, since you don't have to worry about wash-off in those places. I'm going to order some now. 🙂
@@christopher_shaffer I ordered some but I also just found out you can get the same lv consistency out of regular woolwax by mixing 1 to 3 vegetable oil to regular woolwax. It was on one of the woolwax youtube product videos.
I set up to do an honest review of this product. I bought the product and spray applicator, read all instructions, warmed the product, had a controlled indoor location with heat, set air compressor to recommended pressure and used their spray applicator. When it wouldn’t spray I called this company for guidance. The company rep was rude and arrogant. He informed me the spray gun they sell for this isn’t supposed to be used for this. And he stated that unless you have experience using the product you shouldn’t use it. He even became argumentative and abusive prior to my disconnecting the call. Horrible company and product!
Woolwax is good stuff! Best thing is, it doesn’t stink!
the only stink really is when its burning off that exhaust sitting in a drivethru line after some overspraying!
I just sold my 2019 F450 that was professionally coated inside and out with Wool Wax. One application lasted 5 years+. The only rust was where the springs rub together or where the WW evaporated from heat, the differential mainly. If it was powerwashed, it would look as it did the day it came off the truck.
I originally wanted to go with Surface Shield but it was unavailable in either 5 gallon or gallon containers so I went with Woolwax and have been impressed with its performance. After spraying both vehicles last winter, the majority of it still remained until this fall when it was time to spray them again for the upcoming winter. It is definitely a pain to work with after spraying, so I would recommend getting all the work you intend on doing done before spraying but once you spray it, it should be good for the winter. The best time to spray is during the hot part of the year so it has time to creep.
That's a great point. Warmer weather will allow it to creep more. I usually try to get mine done in late August, early September.
If you ever need to remove the undercoating, I've found that diesel fuel sprayed on with a spritzer bottle and a plastic bristle brush works good to loosen it. Then wipe it off or pressure wash it.
If someone knows of a better way, please chime in.
I used a 8 gallon compressor that's puts out between 3-4scfm. It works, but it runs constantly and it builds up a ton of moisture in the tank. I would recommend something bigger.
Your car looks well protected. We have this in the UK under the trade names of "Lanoguard" and "Lanocare" etc Generally well received. DIYers like it as it is very quick and easy to apply and needs little preparation. It can also be sprayed into box sections and doors etc.
I used to use an English product, WaxOyl, on my Volvo and Land Rover in Iceland. It seemed very similar to Wool Wax in the US. It was the old thing that could keep my Disco2 from rusting to bits.
It looks good, my 01 XJ could have used this 20 years ago.
Wish there was a video out there with a 20 or 30 year long term review
I agree!
Woolwax should be applied yearly.
Question for ya... after treatment do you use a carwash at all or just hand washing? Want to see if it is even worth applying if using commercial car washes
You really have to work at it with a car wash in order to wash it off. It's pretty resistant. That's one of the advantages to Woolwax over some other brands.
@@christopher_shaffer this regular WW did NOT stay on the high-wash areas such as the rear wheelhouse area under my testing... i sprayed this (used the spray cans) on my truck frame in that rear area then had a cross-state drive through IOWA (over 200 miles) in a hard constant rain (heavy constant roadwash)...and most ALL of it washed off... BUT!! the section that I had applied the WW HV (high viscosity) that i brushed on stayed put AND has stayed put for over 3 years now with no touchup necessary... it is caked in layers of dirt and road crud LOL but is still on there in the very high roadwash area after more than 100k miles
@efil4kizum Good to know. I have only used WW from the gallon cans. I imagine the WW on the spray cans must be a thinner viscosity, but again, I have no experience with them. On the other hand, I have used FF in the spray cans, and that does go on pretty thin. It's great for migrating into lap joints and pinch seems though.
Good stuff wonder if i can spray my car with just using a ramp and crawling underneath
Yes. Absolutely. I do mine in my driveway.
Great review, thanks.
Great video, thanks
Thanks!
is this the WW HV grade product?
Nope. It's the regular stuff.
My truck got parrafin wax. Is this the same as the wool wax?
Paraffin wax is different. Woolwax remains softer and more fluid.
Have you tried woolwax lv on the inner frames?
I haven't used the LV yet, but it seems like it would be a good option for those really hard to reach places like inside doors, rockers, etc. Especially, since you don't have to worry about wash-off in those places.
I'm going to order some now. 🙂
@@christopher_shaffer I ordered some but I also just found out you can get the same lv consistency out of regular woolwax by mixing 1 to 3 vegetable oil to regular woolwax. It was on one of the woolwax youtube product videos.
How do you get it out of the 1 gallon bucket into the smaller ones? Can it be pumped?
@@rottdogsparky You just pour it. It's about the consistency of pancake batter.
Crappy product and company
It's only hazardous if you have an unfortunate lanolin allergy LOL
I set up to do an honest review of this product. I bought the product and spray applicator, read all instructions, warmed the product, had a controlled indoor location with heat, set air compressor to recommended pressure and used their spray applicator. When it wouldn’t spray I called this company for guidance. The company rep was rude and arrogant. He informed me the spray gun they sell for this isn’t supposed to be used for this. And he stated that unless you have experience using the product you shouldn’t use it.
He even became argumentative and abusive prior to my disconnecting the call.
Horrible company and product!