As a sea doo tech im installing this on a customers boat, he sent us these videos, he wants it done and it can be done, ive had a blast doing this, these videos are top notch!
Note: The fuel level is only calculated from the fuel flow rate and the amount of gas you input. It is not reading the fuel sensor. When you fill up your tank, you have to go into the settings and re-input the gallons. The fuel sensor on the Switch is not connected to the CAN. There is another device by Yacht Devices that can be installed to read the fuel sensor. This device is for another video.
Thanks for the installation video. I used a wire tap on the rear of the fuse box spare spot for my power and grounded directly to the busbar. With the data string provided I am seeing a deference in trim from my helm. Its off when zeroed on the helm it shows it pitched down a bar on the Garmin. Is there a way to see oil pressure? Will the Garmin only show four gauges?
In getting to the final set up of the Engine gateway for my 2023 21' 230 hp supercharger I have found the Bi-color LED on the Device to blink red rather than green. However; when i turn the garmin on, the device light flashes light green then back to red then back to green then back to red and so forth. I believe I have set the wiring up exactly as you showed on the video. Just wondering if you would have a solution. Also I was wondering if I set up the SD card correctly by copying and pasting the text as follows: BRP_ROTAX=ON ENGINE_CAN_SPEED=500 ENGINE_0=1 ENGINE_1=OFF FUEL=GASOLINE
Copy and paste the code I provided below the comments. Re-flash the Engine Gateway. Make sure your NMEA2000 network is powered. Did you use the adapter cable? The first color flash indicates the Engine Gateway. Green indicates that the data from the engine has been received by the Engine Gateway. The second flash indicates the condition of the NMEA2000 network. A red flash indicates that no data is sent or received to the network. I'm going to assume that the red flash is the second flash. So you need to check the NMEA2000 network for proper installation and that it is powered. If you connected everything as in my video, then you'll need to make sure the ignition is ON so that the network is powered. Double check with a meter that the network is indeed getting power.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Hi Frank, thank you for your quick response!! I have copied & pasted the code in it's entirety that you provided below the comments to the SD card starting with the Bold words: "If no data displayed then change CAN_SPEED to 250" and ending with the last code just prior to "End of File". Should I have copied the code text only rather than copying the bold statements as well? I then checked with my meter the voltage coming out of the red wire that I had plugged in to the lower left corner of the fuse box and then to the yellow NMEA 2000 cable. I checked the voltage inside of the red cable where I could pull apart the small black twist apart fuse holder. The meter showed 12 volts with the ignition on and showed no voltage with the ignition off. I then re-flashed the SD card to the device with the ignition on. Device blinked red. I then turned on the Garmin. The device showed 2 blinking green lights, 5 seconds apart showed 2 blinking red lights then repeating itself. I did connect the adapter with the female end of the adapter to the mail end that I removed from the dummy port on the front of the coolant tank which left a male end that I put back to the dummy port. Obviously I connected the other end of the adapter to the in line connection end of the device which left an unused male end. Honestly I couldn't see any other way it would connect. I did try to add a photo of how everything is connected in the engine compartment for you to view but my computer would not allow me to do so. Is there a way I can send the photo via text message or email? You could DM me at 435-630-6155. Thank you in advance.
@@servicemaster2014 On your NMEA backbone, each end - that is in-line with the length of the backbone - need terminators. Devices do not get plugged into these ends. Only the port(s) coming out at 90 degrees from the backbone should have devices connected. In the basic one device network, there should be a terminator at one end, then a power connector on one 90 degree port, the device at another 90 degree port and then a terminator at the other end. Are you set up this way?
Yes, I have set up the back bone precisely the way you described with terminators in line on both the top end and bottom end. Yellow power cable to 90 in center of back bone. Top 90 cable to Garmin. Bottom 90 cable to device.
Thnx frank I got the fuel setup you did all working but this engine gateway not so much I get a red flash then a green flash. I updated the sd card (updated good according to flashing lights) using the yatch website changed values but nothing. I also have the brp adapter cable installed but still get red the green light please help.
The first flash indicates the condition of the engine network. Green if within the last period (5 seconds) data has been accepted from the engine network, red if not. Since you are getting a green in the second flash, your NMEA2000 network is good. Did you use the adapter from Yacht Devices for the Switch? www.yachtd.com/static/img/brp_can_diagnostics_adaptor.png
@@letsrolldiyauto1532yes I did I’m stumped now! But yes red then green flash . I have emailed you on your email that shows on your TH-cam profile (iCloud account )
@@MoniandFredsillyrianGaming well, I don’t know what to tell you. The first red flash means it’s not communicating with the engine. If you have the firmware updated properly and you know you have the wiring and adapters connected correctly, then you might have a defective unit, Take pictures of the installation, showing the connections. And the txt of the firmware used. And a short video of the lights flashing. Send them to Yacht Devices support. Tell the, that unless they see an installation problem, you’d like to return the unit for a replacement.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 I have the same problem as above. I sent an email and no reply came back to me. I also sent my high-definition pictures on the official website. And you said there might be something wrong with the engine equipment. But I can read the engine data using a computer. . Can you tell me what the problem is and help me?
Frank, if my previous request is not a good idea secondary to variability. Perhaps I can drop by your place in Merritt Island and give it a shot if I can’t get it working. I bought a 2023 18 foot 230 hp Sea-Doo switch. My home is in Vero beach, but I keep the boat in Leesburg Florida.
amazing video , clear , step by step instruction , old school !!! super ! my question is i have twin engine challenger 230 , how to set up two engines ?
Sorry, you'll need to check out the YachtDevices website for that information. But there are settings n the programming to allow for multiple engines. The device itself will do it, but I imagine you'd need a common diagnostic port that handles both engines. Then just plug it in and set the parameters for your set-up. Tech support at Yacht Devices is excellent in providing support for specific applications.
at 13:24 min in: WHAT does the connector connect to ?????? I tried the Dummy Port and got Error Code, Drowning? Or Does it connect inline to the two red lock connectors below?
@@mrcharlesbreed pull the plug out of the dummy port on the coolant reservoir. Plug the connector in line. The dummy port just is a holder for the end of the connector CAN bus chain.
copy from where it begins "Current configuration". However, due to something TH-cam does in the comments, you need to put a # before everything in bold and the . Why it changed it to bold, I don't know.
Frank, I have watched all of your videos on the Sea-Doo switch. They have been really helpful and I thank you for that. I’m not much of a computer guy, but I am otherwise fairly handy. Do you have any interest in creating a micro SD card with the appropriate verbage on it and I could compensate you for your time and inconvenience.
Question. How long does the motor have to be running in the water. Before you get Diles on your gauges or the gauges start to work. I’ve hooked mine up and tried it on land. Put the boat in the water on the trailer and fire the motor up in the water. And my gauges still do not seem to want to work. I reprogrammed the SD card one more time figured I might’ve got something wrong. But I’m still trying to get it to work.
It does not have to be in the water. Check the lights on the engine gateway device. There should be two green flashes. One green says the device is working, the second says it’s communicating with the network. If you don’t have that, reprogram and check all the connections and make sure your NMEA 2000 is set up correctly with the terminators on each end. And make sure you have the network powered. If you have that, Go to the Garmin settings. Make sure the correct engine is selected. You may need to change from 0 to 1 depending upon how you programmed the device. Make sure your device appears in the NMEA 2000 devices on the Garmin. Go for the auto gauge setup.
Thanks for your tutorial Frank. I've followed your instructions and used your file but it isn't working quite right. I get RPM, Trim, F/N/R, Voltage, Engine Temp Info. But I don't get boost info or fuel flow. When I go to the settings to enter in the fuel tank capacity I have no options in that screen other then the "Remaining Fuel" toggle which is set to "Fuel Flow". Any ideas? I've tried resetting the Garmin to factory defaults but I can't seem to get the missing info to display.
Boost doesn’t work for me, either. I assumed it was because I didn’t have the 230 supercharged engine. For fuel flow, make sure you have the correct tank selected on the Garmin and set to fuel flow. This solution should be in the Garmin settings
Really thankful for your videos! Even if they’re complicit in the draining of my bank account. You should get affiliate links! Can you point me in the direction of what I need to make it read the fuel tank?
Yes. First, you can go to settings > My Vessel. Then for fuel select Flow. Enter 29 for the gallons and have a full tank. The flow rate, which is read by the CAN, will calculate and display the remaining fuel. While not 100% accurate, it is pretty close. When you refill the fuel tank, fill it full then in Settings > My Vessel > Fuel, select Refill and it will reset the amount back to the full 29 gallons. To have the fuel gauge actually read, Yacht Devices makes a fuel tank module. It would require another NMEA 2000 t-connector and attachment to the fuel sensor and a 12 vdc reference. I have the wiring schematics and will be looking at the best place to tap into the fuel sensor. The sensor is part of the fuel pump and not the easiest to get to. Wiring does go to the console and I know the pins used. I’ll have to see how easy it is to get to it. Chump Zillow on the Facebook Switch group is looking into it also. We are communicating to get it done. It is another $250, though. When I get it done, I’ll do another video on it.
The Amazon Link is for style : (Raymarine Seatalk Ng Compatible )or should I be purchasing style: ( NMEA 2000 (DEVICENET) MICRO MALE). Awesome video. Thanks
This is great info. I've still got a burning question... where does the adapter/engine gateway plug in on the actual engine? Can you provide a diagram/picture/crayon drawing of where the plug is? Thanks!!!
Look at the coolant reservoir tank. Facing you towards the bottom is a plug. This is the end of the CAN BUS plug. it is in the dummy port on the coolant reservoir tank. Plug into this plug and then the other free end goes back there. You just add to this chain.
@@kevinperryman4322 No. It works, but the Sea Doo tank has a stepped fuel gauge not a continuous or variable resistance type. So it will read the same fuel amount until the tank level drops to the next step. Then it will display that amount. Other than telling gallons, it will be identical to the step gauge on the dash. I have my settings on the Garmin to display remaining fuel based upon fuel flow. While I have the tank adapter installed, I rarely use it.
Look at the coolant reservoir tank. Facing you towards the bottom is a plug. This is the end of the CAN BUS plug. it is in the dummy port on the coolant reservoir tank. Plug into this plug and then the other free end goes back there. You just add to this chain.
I am also a red light and a green light. The wiring harness feels right to me. Don't know where the problem lies. I sent an email and no reply came back to me. I also sent my high-definition pictures on the official website. Follow TXT. And you said there might be something wrong with the engine equipment. But I can read the engine data using a computer. . Can you tell me what the problem is and help me?
Frank - QQ - I have the ski module like you could you show how you connected everything? Pictures or video would be great. Thanks for you consideration.
If you have subscribed, just look at my videos. I have one on the Ski Module that shows how to install it. th-cam.com/video/WasSH1tLGy8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xkIxuXi8pN81EXAf
I cannot get the yacht devices to work with the engine even though I’ve check the continuity of the harness wiring to the yacht device and observed the CAN H and L signals on the connector pins
Make sure you are seeing two green flashes on the yacht Devices LED. One green flash is properly connected to the CAN, the other is properly connected to the NMEA2000 network. If you are getting two green flashes, then check the settings on the Garmin. Are you using the programming I provided in the description section? If yes, (and you re getting the two green flashes) then make sure you select the correct engine in the Garmin.
Hey Frank. Thank you for all the videos. Awesome. Question, do I need to download the firmware first, then edit it, or just create the txt file and copy to the SD card and install it on the device?
You'd need to add the appropriate sensors to the NMEA 2000 network. You could also add a Garmin SiriusXM receiver. But these are expensive and require a subscription. Google Garmin SiriusXM.
Well, I'm in Florida. And DIYer. If you need it added and do not want to tackle it yourself, I would imagine any marine electronics shop would have a technician who could do this for you.
As a sea doo tech im installing this on a customers boat, he sent us these videos, he wants it done and it can be done, ive had a blast doing this, these videos are top notch!
Thanks
I love your Seadoo Switch videos. Went to the NYC boat show yesterday and your knowledge is reinforcing my desire to buy this pontoon. Thank you!
Thanks. I'm glad they help.
Note: The fuel level is only calculated from the fuel flow rate and the amount of gas you input. It is not reading the fuel sensor. When you fill up your tank, you have to go into the settings and re-input the gallons. The fuel sensor on the Switch is not connected to the CAN. There is another device by Yacht Devices that can be installed to read the fuel sensor. This device is for another video.
The Yamaha jet boat community would love to have the NMEA2000 connectivity, however no one has been able to crack the code yet
Didn't see in install video of how it gets connected to the Switch engine?
@@chriskirchoff7738 The Engine Gateway connects to the CAN bus. The end of this is plugged into a dum my port on the coolant tank.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532where is the engine gateway port located
@@MoniandFredsillyrianGaming It connects to the CAN Bus. On the video I show where on the coolant tank the end of the CAN Bus line is located.
The videos your making are great ! Keep it up! Where are you from can you come do this to my switch ?
I'm in Merritt Island Florida.
Thanks for the installation video. I used a wire tap on the rear of the fuse box spare spot for my power and grounded directly to the busbar. With the data string provided I am seeing a deference in trim from my helm. Its off when zeroed on the helm it shows it pitched down a bar on the Garmin. Is there a way to see oil pressure? Will the Garmin only show four gauges?
That's all you'll see on the Garmin and Switch. More info would be nice. But that's all the Switch is reporting.
In getting to the final set up of the Engine gateway for my 2023 21' 230 hp supercharger I have found the Bi-color LED on the Device to blink red rather than green. However; when i turn the garmin on, the device light flashes light green then back to red then back to green then back to red and so forth. I believe I have set the wiring up exactly as you showed on the video. Just wondering if you would have a solution.
Also I was wondering if I set up the SD card correctly by copying and pasting the text as follows:
BRP_ROTAX=ON
ENGINE_CAN_SPEED=500
ENGINE_0=1
ENGINE_1=OFF
FUEL=GASOLINE
Copy and paste the code I provided below the comments. Re-flash the Engine Gateway. Make sure your NMEA2000 network is powered. Did you use the adapter cable? The first color flash indicates the Engine Gateway. Green indicates that the data from the engine has been received by the Engine Gateway. The second flash indicates the condition of the NMEA2000 network. A red flash indicates that no data is sent or received to the network. I'm going to assume that the red flash is the second flash. So you need to check the NMEA2000 network for proper installation and that it is powered. If you connected everything as in my video, then you'll need to make sure the ignition is ON so that the network is powered. Double check with a meter that the network is indeed getting power.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Hi Frank, thank you for your quick response!! I have copied & pasted the code in it's entirety that you provided below the comments to the SD card starting with the Bold words:
"If no data displayed then change CAN_SPEED to 250" and ending with the last code just prior to "End of File". Should I have copied the code text only rather than copying the bold statements as well?
I then checked with my meter the voltage coming out of the red wire that I had plugged in to the lower left corner of the fuse box and then to the yellow NMEA 2000 cable. I checked the voltage inside of the red cable where I could pull apart the small black twist apart fuse holder. The meter showed 12 volts with the ignition on and showed no voltage with the ignition off.
I then re-flashed the SD card to the device with the ignition on. Device blinked red. I then turned on the Garmin. The device showed 2 blinking green lights, 5 seconds apart showed 2 blinking red lights then repeating itself.
I did connect the adapter with the female end of the adapter to the mail end that I removed from the dummy port on the front of the coolant tank which left a male end that I put back to the dummy port. Obviously I connected the other end of the adapter to the in line connection end of the device which left an unused male end. Honestly I couldn't see any other way it would connect.
I did try to add a photo of how everything is connected in the engine compartment for you to view but my computer would not allow me to do so. Is there a way I can send the photo via text message or email? You could DM me at 435-630-6155.
Thank you in advance.
@@servicemaster2014 On your NMEA backbone, each end - that is in-line with the length of the backbone - need terminators. Devices do not get plugged into these ends. Only the port(s) coming out at 90 degrees from the backbone should have devices connected. In the basic one device network, there should be a terminator at one end, then a power connector on one 90 degree port, the device at another 90 degree port and then a terminator at the other end. Are you set up this way?
Yes, I have set up the back bone precisely the way you described with terminators in line on both the top end and bottom end. Yellow power cable to 90 in center of back bone. Top 90 cable to Garmin. Bottom 90 cable to device.
I’d suggest contacting Yacht Devices support. It’s possible your device is defective.
Thnx frank I got the fuel setup you did all working but this engine gateway not so much I get a red flash then a green flash. I updated the sd card (updated good according to flashing lights) using the yatch website changed values but nothing. I also have the brp adapter cable installed but still get red the green light please help.
The first flash indicates the condition of the engine network. Green if within the last period (5 seconds) data has been accepted from the engine network, red if not. Since you are getting a green in the second flash, your NMEA2000 network is good. Did you use the adapter from Yacht Devices for the Switch? www.yachtd.com/static/img/brp_can_diagnostics_adaptor.png
@@letsrolldiyauto1532yes I did I’m stumped now! But yes red then green flash . I have emailed you on your email that shows on your TH-cam profile (iCloud account )
@@MoniandFredsillyrianGaming well, I don’t know what to tell you. The first red flash means it’s not communicating with the engine. If you have the firmware updated properly and you know you have the wiring and adapters connected correctly, then you might have a defective unit, Take pictures of the installation, showing the connections. And the txt of the firmware used. And a short video of the lights flashing. Send them to Yacht Devices support. Tell the, that unless they see an installation problem, you’d like to return the unit for a replacement.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 I have the same problem as above. I sent an email and no reply came back to me. I also sent my high-definition pictures on the official website. And you said there might be something wrong with the engine equipment. But I can read the engine data using a computer. . Can you tell me what the problem is and help me?
Frank, if my previous request is not a good idea secondary to variability. Perhaps I can drop by your place in Merritt Island and give it a shot if I can’t get it working. I bought a 2023 18 foot 230 hp Sea-Doo switch. My home is in Vero beach, but I keep the boat in Leesburg Florida.
You can do that. I won't be available until after the 29th, but any day then is fine.
amazing video , clear , step by step instruction , old school !!! super ! my question is i have twin engine challenger 230 , how to set up two engines ?
Sorry, you'll need to check out the YachtDevices website for that information. But there are settings n the programming to allow for multiple engines. The device itself will do it, but I imagine you'd need a common diagnostic port that handles both engines. Then just plug it in and set the parameters for your set-up. Tech support at Yacht Devices is excellent in providing support for specific applications.
What’s the easiest way to feed the wire to the engine? Do I need to pull up decking? Looks like the pass through goes through the outer toon
You do need to remove the deck under the captain's chair, as shown on the video.
Wonder if this will work on my gti se jet ski. I have the 72sv
What plug did you plug into on engine that’s the only part i didn’t see
Don't know about the GTI. You'll need to contact Yacht Devices about that. Sorry
at 13:24 min in: WHAT does the connector connect to ?????? I tried the Dummy Port and got Error Code, Drowning? Or Does it connect inline to the two red lock connectors below?
@@mrcharlesbreed pull the plug out of the dummy port on the coolant reservoir. Plug the connector in line. The dummy port just is a holder for the end of the connector CAN bus chain.
Frank, Where do i begin copying on the description for the text file? I copy all text below that point until "END OF TEXT"?
copy from where it begins "Current configuration". However, due to something TH-cam does in the comments, you need to put a # before everything in bold and the . Why it changed it to bold, I don't know.
Frank, I have watched all of your videos on the Sea-Doo switch. They have been really helpful and I thank you for that. I’m not much of a computer guy, but I am otherwise fairly handy. Do you have any interest in creating a micro SD card with the appropriate verbage on it and I could compensate you for your time and inconvenience.
No compensation necessary.
Question. How long does the motor have to be running in the water. Before you get Diles on your gauges or the gauges start to work. I’ve hooked mine up and tried it on land. Put the boat in the water on the trailer and fire the motor up in the water. And my gauges still do not seem to want to work. I reprogrammed the SD card one more time figured I might’ve got something wrong. But I’m still trying to get it to work.
It does not have to be in the water. Check the lights on the engine gateway device. There should be two green flashes. One green says the device is working, the second says it’s communicating with the network. If you don’t have that, reprogram and check all the connections and make sure your NMEA 2000 is set up correctly with the terminators on each end. And make sure you have the network powered. If you have that, Go to the Garmin settings. Make sure the correct engine is selected. You may need to change from 0 to 1 depending upon how you programmed the device. Make sure your device appears in the NMEA 2000 devices on the Garmin. Go for the auto gauge setup.
Thanks for your tutorial Frank. I've followed your instructions and used your file but it isn't working quite right. I get RPM, Trim, F/N/R, Voltage, Engine Temp Info. But I don't get boost info or fuel flow. When I go to the settings to enter in the fuel tank capacity I have no options in that screen other then the "Remaining Fuel" toggle which is set to "Fuel Flow". Any ideas? I've tried resetting the Garmin to factory defaults but I can't seem to get the missing info to display.
Boost doesn’t work for me, either. I assumed it was because I didn’t have the 230 supercharged engine. For fuel flow, make sure you have the correct tank selected on the Garmin and set to fuel flow. This solution should be in the Garmin settings
Does it give oil pressure? Because that’s pretty much all I care about.
@@frankiebmedia9003 sadly, no. I think this is a function of the BRP sensor. Just a normal or low switch and not a pressure switch.
Really thankful for your videos! Even if they’re complicit in the draining of my bank account. You should get affiliate links!
Can you point me in the direction of what I need to make it read the fuel tank?
Yes. First, you can go to settings > My Vessel. Then for fuel select Flow. Enter 29 for the gallons and have a full tank. The flow rate, which is read by the CAN, will calculate and display the remaining fuel. While not 100% accurate, it is pretty close. When you refill the fuel tank, fill it full then in Settings > My Vessel > Fuel, select Refill and it will reset the amount back to the full 29 gallons. To have the fuel gauge actually read, Yacht Devices makes a fuel tank module. It would require another NMEA 2000 t-connector and attachment to the fuel sensor and a 12 vdc reference. I have the wiring schematics and will be looking at the best place to tap into the fuel sensor. The sensor is part of the fuel pump and not the easiest to get to. Wiring does go to the console and I know the pins used. I’ll have to see how easy it is to get to it. Chump Zillow on the Facebook Switch group is looking into it also. We are communicating to get it done. It is another $250, though. When I get it done, I’ll do another video on it.
The Amazon Link is for style : (Raymarine Seatalk Ng Compatible )or should I be purchasing style: ( NMEA 2000 (DEVICENET) MICRO MALE). Awesome video. Thanks
Frank - Great video can you add the link to the Fuse /Wire RJ11 Directwire Radar Mount kit
amzn.to/445Vi8d
This is great info. I've still got a burning question... where does the adapter/engine gateway plug in on the actual engine? Can you provide a diagram/picture/crayon drawing of where the plug is? Thanks!!!
Look at the coolant reservoir tank. Facing you towards the bottom is a plug. This is the end of the CAN BUS plug. it is in the dummy port on the coolant reservoir tank. Plug into this plug and then the other free end goes back there. You just add to this chain.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Frank! Awesome info. Your opinion, the fuel adaptor worth it from Yacht Devices?
@@kevinperryman4322 No. It works, but the Sea Doo tank has a stepped fuel gauge not a continuous or variable resistance type. So it will read the same fuel amount until the tank level drops to the next step. Then it will display that amount. Other than telling gallons, it will be identical to the step gauge on the dash. I have my settings on the Garmin to display remaining fuel based upon fuel flow. While I have the tank adapter installed, I rarely use it.
Which connector or where is the connector in the engine compartment?
Look at the coolant reservoir tank. Facing you towards the bottom is a plug. This is the end of the CAN BUS plug. it is in the dummy port on the coolant reservoir tank. Plug into this plug and then the other free end goes back there. You just add to this chain.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 do I leave the card in after activation or remove it ?
@@terrywitte9109 Remove it and place the adhesive covering over the slot (included with the Engine Gateway).
I am also a red light and a green light. The wiring harness feels right to me. Don't know where the problem lies. I sent an email and no reply came back to me. I also sent my high-definition pictures on the official website. Follow TXT. And you said there might be something wrong with the engine equipment. But I can read the engine data using a computer. . Can you tell me what the problem is and help me?
Frank - QQ - I have the ski module like you could you show how you connected everything? Pictures or video would be great. Thanks for you consideration.
If you have subscribed, just look at my videos. I have one on the Ski Module that shows how to install it. th-cam.com/video/WasSH1tLGy8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xkIxuXi8pN81EXAf
Yep saw that just didnt know how to connect the engine gateway and the ski module as dont they use the same port?
@@georgefreiberger5282it doesn’t. It just adds to the CAN bus and will spread as an option on the console.
I cannot get the yacht devices to work with the engine even though I’ve check the continuity of the harness wiring to the yacht device and observed the CAN H and L signals on the connector pins
Make sure you are seeing two green flashes on the yacht Devices LED. One green flash is properly connected to the CAN, the other is properly connected to the NMEA2000 network. If you are getting two green flashes, then check the settings on the Garmin. Are you using the programming I provided in the description section? If yes, (and you re getting the two green flashes) then make sure you select the correct engine in the Garmin.
Hey Frank. Thank you for all the videos. Awesome.
Question, do I need to download the firmware first, then edit it, or just create the txt file and copy to the SD card and install it on the device?
If there's a firmware update, then download the firmware. If not then just copy the txt file to the SD card and put it in the device.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532thank you so very much. You’re the best.
Do you know how to get the water and air temp to work on the garmin
You'd need to add the appropriate sensors to the NMEA 2000 network. You could also add a Garmin SiriusXM receiver. But these are expensive and require a subscription. Google Garmin SiriusXM.
what's the link for that fuse holder wire?
amzn.to/3MROVQf
Very Informative Channel ! Nice work! Probably should cut your zip-ties flush so you do not get cut in the future when poking around the engine. 😛
I do cut them. Just didn't before taping was done.
Thanks
Frank, Does the engine hours show up on the Garmin with the engine gateway/monitor installed?
The engine hours will still show up in the trip section of the Garmin, as before, and still on the console.
Where are you? Can I pay you to do this on my boat. I am in North New Jersey.
Well, I'm in Florida. And DIYer. If you need it added and do not want to tackle it yourself, I would imagine any marine electronics shop would have a technician who could do this for you.
Awesome job!
Thanks