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copy from where it begins "Current configuration". However, due to something TH-cam does in the comments, you need to put a # before everything in bold and the . Why it changed it to bold, I don't know.

@@clooch1976 use an volt-ohm meter to make sure you have wired properly. If you connected like I did, then remove the cable to the engine. So now you have only the cables from the batteries to the switch. Use the meter to measure the voltage at the point where the cable to the engine goes (that you disconnected). Switch from battery one to off then to battery two. It sounds like you have wired it wrong.

@@kurtd6487 you should not connect two batteries of different capacities in parallel. I would recommend you run two charging cables (one for each battery) and charge one at a time.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532how did you change it when you added your bigger battery? Did you leave it connected to the small battery or did you connect it to your large battery. I know you have also added the Noco tender since as well.

Yes. If you subscribe to the channel and look for videos there, you'll find these videos as well as other Switch videos.

The 22-23 Switches came with Garmin EchoMap 70v. I connected it to the stock chart plotter. Garmin's website will have a section on compatibilities should you wish to get a different chartplotter or depth finder.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Thanks for the reply Frank -- i been doing a lot of research-- getting close thou.. :) Happy Sailing!!!!!

Well, I'm in Florida. And DIYer. If you need it added and do not want to tackle it yourself, I would imagine any marine electronics shop would have a technician who could do this for you.

Yes, it does seem to be somewhat between a basic OBD II and a full function analyzer. It's cheap and good for the "quick and dirty".

Thanks

@@bradbarber4875 yes

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You do need to remove the deck under the captain's chair, as shown on the video.

Foxwell on the video. But the Launch will do the same thing.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 thank you is that coupon code for their website I couldn’t find where to use it on Amazon

Failure of pressures to drop as they should when the compressor kicks on.

@@Sammy-uf9kl gas. Diesel engines don’t have spark plugs.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Yeah I found out that they have glow plugs instead of spark plug. I need soon to change one my ML Bluetec

They’ve lasted since I replaced them.

@@mrbabiczj yes everything except the bolts.

Yes I did encounter the same thing. BRP didn’t want to give any extra.

Thanks

yes

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 one more question when you replaced everything did you have to do a AC reset on yours? it because my AC button is flashing

No I did not. But I did run an OBD II reader and cleared any codes.

Doesn't matter.

Thanks. I bought everything you suggested. I'm going to install it tomorrow. I just bought the 2024 switch cruise limited. I have a few amplifiers in my console area not as clean as yours, but I'll use your video as guidance.

I set mine to gasoline, though according to the manual, it doesn't matter. I'd suggest just copy and paste the parameters I listed in the description and put that on your card. I know it works.

OK Thank You

There is a link to where you can get it.

@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Thank you

The engine hours will still show up in the trip section of the Garmin, as before, and still on the console.

I like the look of the SeaDoo lights. But they are not extremely bright. They're good for coming up to a dock at night and driving slowly. But as you saw, they are not headlights like you'd see on a car.

Unlikely. Use an OBD II reader to see what errors you are getting.

Copy and paste the code I provided below the comments. Re-flash the Engine Gateway. Make sure your NMEA2000 network is powered. Did you use the adapter cable? The first color flash indicates the Engine Gateway. Green indicates that the data from the engine has been received by the Engine Gateway. The second flash indicates the condition of the NMEA2000 network. A red flash indicates that no data is sent or received to the network. I'm going to assume that the red flash is the second flash. So you need to check the NMEA2000 network for proper installation and that it is powered. If you connected everything as in my video, then you'll need to make sure the ignition is ON so that the network is powered. Double check with a meter that the network is indeed getting power.

​@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Hi Frank, thank you for your quick response!! I have copied & pasted the code in it's entirety that you provided below the comments to the SD card starting with the Bold words: "If no data displayed then change CAN_SPEED to 250" and ending with the last code just prior to "End of File". Should I have copied the code text only rather than copying the bold statements as well? I then checked with my meter the voltage coming out of the red wire that I had plugged in to the lower left corner of the fuse box and then to the yellow NMEA 2000 cable. I checked the voltage inside of the red cable where I could pull apart the small black twist apart fuse holder. The meter showed 12 volts with the ignition on and showed no voltage with the ignition off. I then re-flashed the SD card to the device with the ignition on. Device blinked red. I then turned on the Garmin. The device showed 2 blinking green lights, 5 seconds apart showed 2 blinking red lights then repeating itself. I did connect the adapter with the female end of the adapter to the mail end that I removed from the dummy port on the front of the coolant tank which left a male end that I put back to the dummy port. Obviously I connected the other end of the adapter to the in line connection end of the device which left an unused male end. Honestly I couldn't see any other way it would connect. I did try to add a photo of how everything is connected in the engine compartment for you to view but my computer would not allow me to do so. Is there a way I can send the photo via text message or email? You could DM me at 435-630-6155. Thank you in advance.

@@servicemaster2014 On your NMEA backbone, each end - that is in-line with the length of the backbone - need terminators. Devices do not get plugged into these ends. Only the port(s) coming out at 90 degrees from the backbone should have devices connected. In the basic one device network, there should be a terminator at one end, then a power connector on one 90 degree port, the device at another 90 degree port and then a terminator at the other end. Are you set up this way?

Yes, I have set up the back bone precisely the way you described with terminators in line on both the top end and bottom end. Yellow power cable to 90 in center of back bone. Top 90 cable to Garmin. Bottom 90 cable to device.

I’d suggest contacting Yacht Devices support. It’s possible your device is defective.

Good question. I have looked at the website and read the User Manual. Here's my thoughts. The Engine Gateway will give voltage readings. The Battery Monitor shows voltage, amperes and temperature (with an additional external temperature probe). I don't think the amperes is going to give me any real additional information. If I look at voltage, before starting, it needs to be 12+v. While cranking, it should not drop below 9.6v. If it does, it's a bad battery. When charging, it should read 13.5+v. For normal operation, that's all I really need to know. If I suspect a bad battery, I'd go for the battery tester anyway. It will fit into the NMEA 2000 backbone, but I don't know whether or how it would display on the Garmin EchoNap. And finally, at a cost of $189, I'll pass on it due to the limited information it gives. The battery tester at under $100 is my preferred route.

Great

It really doesn't. You'd need a transom mount with nice side view for a good fish finder. Like the GT56. This is a basic depth finder.

Thank you

Even though you turn off the battery, check the battery voltage. A battery tester might help. (I did a video on a battery tester I evaluated.) I've read that low voltage can cause the IBR error. Also, for me, a low voltage kept my IDF from working. But for the software reset, you'd need to get the software and dongle attachment to get into the ECM. CanDooPro.com has the decoder and software, but I think it's a little expensive at $429. Plus, if you decide to go with that, call them first and make sure you get the right product.

I’m such an idiot. Lol I forgot to plug in the cable from the backbone to the Garmin. It was hiding and I didn’t even notice. lol. All perfect. Thank you again for all the help.

Hello

Please I will always need your help on I am a mechanic in Nigeria we're all this new model Mercedes I do found it hard repairs is possible I will need your WhatsApp numbers

@@PeterChristopher-vg7bg I don't have a WhatsApp number. And I'm just a DIY guy.

Yes

Glad it helped.

Yes. That is normal. The depth finder is sonar and does not work in air. It neds to be in a liquid (water). When you start getting to speed, there's cavitation under the boat and these air bubbles interfere with the sonar. Also, the latency (time between the signal sent and signal received) may have an effect on the accuracy. The more expensive transom mounts will read depth under speed much better.

Look for my high capacity video. It will show the location and installation as well as the battery and mount specs.