Suggesting a new opening line: "If you're new here, let me get you caught up. I bought Athena 4 years ago, and then proceeded to replace every piece of the boat (nearly) one by one because this is a DIY focused channel...for now."
As a landlubber watching Mads go to town on his boat, I have to laugh. All of his demo and re-construction work is ever faithful to the all important hull. How many new boat owners/re-builders drill through the hull to get something mounted? That long-term storage location is fraught with danger for people not paying attention. Thanks for another great peek at what will be a boat in better shape than when it left the factory.
I would suggest adding a number of ventilation holes to provide air flow to all the little drawer spaces. Humidity in warm climates can create a serious mold problem otherwise.
@@todmills I have been thinking about fans for the fridge heat sink in my caravan and 12v computer fans is what I have decided to use, free too. Maybe these would work well on Athena.
Dehumidifier vented to the lockers is a great idea, but if you skip that it's recommended that you vacuum bag the long time stored cloths closest to the hull at least.
Mads start making plans for a second clothes storage area in the tech room right away. Before my wife moved in with me I built her a beautiful 40 sq ft walk-in closet in the bed room, organized for long things, shoe, shirts and blouses, light coats small compartments open shelves. When it was finished my things took about a third of the space, after about a year I had about a tenth of the space, and after 2 years zero space. At first when it was finished I marveled at this organization thing of beauty. I haven't seen the inside in years
Nice work on the drawers Mads. You had a regular production line going there. Definitely do the T-shirt with the 'Friends don't let friends buy cheap plywood." Enjoy all of your videos no matter what you do. Take care, stay well and my best to you and Ava,
It is a popular misconception that stick-built/brick and mortar homes have walls that are plumb, corners that are square and floors that are level. In my many years of contracting I find this is not the case. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.
Awesome dude ! Love your videos. A few suggestions if I may. 1. Grease your wheels extra, on drawer slides. 2. Definitely get moisture absorbers every place you can, especially behind your electric panels. 3. If your not going to solder your wire ends, at least heat shrink them. Navionics look great, consider a large enough area for computer/editing work. Cheers 👍👍🏅💚
No doors on the long term storage. I would put up some type of fabric that can breath. It would suck to open up your winter clothes to find them covered in mold. Either that or get those vacuum bags for long term stowage.
Crikey Mads that is one hell of a to do list. When you get to the stage of just actually sailing her I can't help think you will be constantly looking for something to sand.
This is so funny...! I'm putting shelves in my closet and was about to order some plywood... Looks like I'm ordering the good stuff now! D.I.Y. tip: Always ask yourself, "What would Mads do?"
For a few short weeks or a couple of months that is certainly the case. For long-term cruising on your own boat, when you no longer own a home on dirt, things are very different. This is especially true when cruising in different climates, including colder ones. For a few weeks in the Caribbean you can get by with practically nothing. Then can you go home to your closet full of clothes when you are done playing sailor crew.
I found this channel in late December. Oh Glorious Binge Watching has now come to an end as I'm fully caught up. :( As for the plywood (or anything else for that matter) Ruskin on prices: “It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”
In Mads We Trust! Great job buddy! I know someone is saying it for sure but vent holes for the storage locker is ideal to keep the clothing stored inside "wearable" later and combat the moisture build up. Oh Glorious sanding and venturing well into overkill territory is in the video... PERFECT!
You should keep a plaque size panel from one of Athena's original panels and write something on it. Maybe a special date (your engagement etc), or a special "Saying" and mount is somewhere inside as a momento.
And me too, same comment. In fact, I would say top 2-3 drawers are basically unusable, and I would suggest converting that upper most section into just a cabinet for larger folded items or to hold a removeable storage bin.
Remove the top three and it is a usable hanging space or bulk storage. Gonna pull the drawers down on your head before you can see inside. Thought only two shelves would be enough, seems a bit overkill to put in that many. More and more wasted space when you keep adding pieces and clearance. Still always defer to Mads.
In the early 70’s my dad taught me a few wood working rules. #1. 2x4 studs are .50 so buy extra, you will use them. #2 use marine grade plywood, it’s only 20 bucks a sheet and it’s worth it. I do wish these rules stayed true.
Looks like we are now into the 'Oh so Glorious Gluing' phase of construction. Less dust, just as much work! While 'soldered' connections are the 'Holy Grail' of terminations, crimping with di-electric grease in each connector is pretty much equal as far as connectivity and corrosion resistance. None of my 'greased' connectors corroded or failed over ten years of sailing. It's such a cheap form of insurance, it's not worth skipping, 8P
Thanks for the video. Look forward to these on Sundays. I'd remove the top drawer and turn it into a shelf as it will be hard to get into. I'd also turn the two bottom drawers into one larger drawer so you have somewhere to put those inevitably taller than 7" items that wouldn't fit otherwise.
@@SailLife Everything is looking great Mads! But don't go crazy trying to meet an artificial deadline. Take the time to do the work without compromising the comfort and safety of the boat.
Your videos always fly by. I look forward to them every Sunday. Very interesting content, and I really enjoy your personal touch! Thanks for sharing your adventure.
Completely off topic: I noticed that this video has about a 20% upvote rate, that's double what most videos on TH-cam seem to get. Good job! Says great things about your content and your community engagement.
Crimping is ABYC Standard. Soldering makes a hard shell that can crack. Add an adhesive heatshrink wrap for extra protection and coat terminals and lugs with an anti-corrosion agant such as petroleum jelly or dielectric grease.
Crimp is the modern standard for terminal connection. Good enough for NASA, good enough for me. I put a band of masking tape around the terminal to secure it to the wire during crimping. Less chance of the lug shifting.
That top set of drawers will be hard to access or see into. That would be a nice place for a set of shoe racks or blankets or something with a lifting door versus a drawer.
There is an option for converting older engines to NMEA2K. Actisense do a gateway called EMU-1 that will convert any analogue engine signals into NMEA2K format and works with any engine - and one unit will cater for up to 2 engines. I have one of these on a 1989 Bayliner 4555 and it works great with the 2 Hino lumps, just a bit more wiring than the engine specific gateways for modern engines!
Highly recommend Yacht Devices YDCC-04 circuit control or digital switching. I've two of them. Fun to switch on electric heater, diesel heater, lights or whatever remotely from home. Currently one of them is controlled by a YDHS, switching electric heater on/off depending on set temperature range to keep my lithiums above 5°C ready for charging.
Take the top shelf out and make it a swinging door as access (up would be nice) - then when you hit your head on it you'll remember this comment. Otherwise don't see how you'd use the top and penultimate drawer. As a bonus you get better access to the mast cabling, if you ever needed it.
Hi Mads, inspirational stuff. When you come to insulate, if you have not already thought about it, you might check out where to include a vapour barrier in the build-up, ’cos the hull grp gets cold in high latitudes and the warm air inside gets humid. You don’t want condensation occurring inside the insulation layers and especially keeping the glue dry.
I love what you do here I reference your stuff for my refit on Sailing Samantas your channel and boatworks today are my top two! Thank you for what you do!
Soldering wires is so 1940's. The electrical industry went to crimp and other types mechanical wire connections many decades ago. It wasn't just for ease of installation either. A soldered connection is inferior in almost every way, except for low-current miniature and sub-miniature board-level connections to wire leads and mounted components. The only real exception is exothermic welding of conductors. This is mainly only really used in large grounding installations and lightning protectiom systems. This technique is where the conductors are basically fused together in special high-temperature molds/crucibles using powdered copper and essentially gunpowder to melt the multiple parts together into a single solid copper piece. But there are always old-school holdouts on soldering wires. I also hear there are still some physicians out there who still use leaches and maggots...
88K Subs...Getting there Mads.. GREAT to see, you have like 500K fewer than you should. Stuff is really coming together, that MEA2000 is the cat's meow for sure. Wish I had that when I had my boat, but nooooooo....old analog gauges that never worked right...even the new ones I bought never worked "right".
When I made up new battery cables for my boat, I both crimped the terminals then melted solder into them, thenshrink wrapped over the joint. If you do that, the cables will last much longer.
Great Vid just loved it work and talk, most vids are to much talk and very little work boring. Cheers Buddy she is really coming together I bet when all those screens lit up it was a massive sigh of relief well done.
Lovely video I'm impressed with how you pace the content in the videos. And for the light in the electrical compartment I would recommend a battery-powered "wand type" in a charging bracket. The odds for needing a battery powerd light when opening that compartment under sail is high ;)
Mads - yet another crazily productive video. Personally I think it was a good decision to cheap out on the plywood for the drawers. Yeah for sure it has voids - but they are not structural and only you (well and all of us) know about them. By the way I agree, tracksaws are the mutts nuts when it comes to working with sheet material.😀👍⛵️
I have been following the progress for years and with the exception of when you talk about Ava I have never heard you get as excited when your displays fired up. I can't wait to see the complete network up and running.
I wired machine controls 40 years Detroit, go buy yourself a roll of velcro and use it to bundle wires together so you can reuse it, please do not use ty rap zip ties etc. if you do use zip ties the black or colored ones usually are for outdoors, the white or clear one will last maybe 2 years outdoors. put some of that wire tray on the door too make it look spiffy....put a spare loop of wire for each wire so it can reach any point in the panel. add spare wires labeled one thru 30 in your wire runs even terminate spare wires and label them for future use.when everything is all wired up make a plexiglass cover for the door breakers so because you know you will set tools on it when you are working in there LOL...those lugs ar coated with nickel and silver when folks sand them that coating comes off and your lugs or terminal rings will corrode.....car plants actually require 30 to 40 % spare wires in all wire runs for future use
Whatever happened to the head? Did you finish it, if so, there was no video. The workmanship was beautiful. Naturally I'd love to see the finished product!
We have lately started using Tesla battery packs for all our solar system. We get them used or I should say salvage some come from smart cars and other places, but they are easy to take apart and reconfigure to fit in about any space.
I wonder if your boat will squeak in a big sea. My boat had wood sides that rubbed against the floor in a big seaway. Finally trimmed the wood wall to eliminate the sound. Don’t worry you can fix it quickly.
Consider leaving the top two gaps as shelves instead of drawers. From YT's perspective, it might be too high for the drawer. As always, great video, and I can't wait for next week already.
Nice job Mads, building drawers is hard. I would have started with the long term storage area, I hope you will have enough wiggle room to work with the drawers in the way 😉
I would of made the bottom shelf 12 inches deep for larger items of clothing jumpers. And then maybe the second shelf from the bottom 9 inches for large items. I hope that you will insulate the hull at the back of the long-term storage. I like the link for the engine to be put onto all the digital instruments.
Mads - great episode. Yes, I liked the mix of tech and woodworking. Your opening shot showing the nav station was great. Things are really coming along. BTW, solder is pronounced without the L - like the animal otter but with an S. Thanks, Ron
Very nice work and video. Please share with us how you did the electrical panel. I am interested in the wiring as I looks cool. Especially those rails.
Coming along nicely. You should put up a little countdown clock now that you are getting close(relatively) to sailing. I am liking the variety for sure
@@thesteve7397 bro, you need to relax. Mads hasn’t rushed anything. He’s done everything properly so far. What do you think his task board is but exactly the same as what I’m talking about. With his deadline in his head already, a visual clock won’t make a dit of difference
From what I've heard in the past, soldering in automotive/boating setting is not recommended. With the constant vibration, over time can weaken the connection but far more important is the fact that the different metals can create resistance that can creates heat points. (AKA "fire") Have you ever seen an automobile/boat with soldered joints from the factory? A well made crimp is always the best.
If crimped well, the copper gets compressed to form a single wire. I used to run cables in an exchange, we used a hydraulic crimper, I cut a connection in half once and never saw any strands left, tbey wete all compressed into one wire.
Suggesting a new opening line: "If you're new here, let me get you caught up. I bought Athena 4 years ago, and then proceeded to replace every piece of the boat (nearly) one by one because this is a DIY focused channel...for now."
As a landlubber watching Mads go to town on his boat, I have to laugh. All of his demo and re-construction work is ever faithful to the all important hull. How many new boat owners/re-builders drill through the hull to get something mounted? That long-term storage location is fraught with danger for people not paying attention. Thanks for another great peek at what will be a boat in better shape than when it left the factory.
I would suggest adding a number of ventilation holes to provide air flow to all the little drawer spaces. Humidity in warm climates can create a serious mold problem otherwise.
Maybe even a small fan to circulate air through the drawers?
@@todmills I have been thinking about fans for the fridge heat sink in my caravan and 12v computer fans is what I have decided to use, free too. Maybe these would work well on Athena.
Mads doesn't do warm climate... see any signs of a A/C unit anywhere?
Dehumidifier vented to the lockers is a great idea, but if you skip that it's recommended that you vacuum bag the long time stored cloths closest to the hull at least.
Loving the motto: "Friends Don't Let Friends Buy Cheap Plywood". And yes, I would very much like that on a T-shirt.
LOL I wish I could find cheap plywood around here we are looking at $30.00 a sheet
Mads start making plans for a second clothes storage area in the tech room right away. Before my wife moved in with me I built her a beautiful 40 sq ft walk-in closet in the bed room, organized for long things, shoe, shirts and blouses, light coats small compartments open shelves. When it was finished my things took about a third of the space, after about a year I had about a tenth of the space, and after 2 years zero space. At first when it was finished I marveled at this organization thing of beauty. I haven't seen the inside in years
Nice work on the drawers Mads. You had a regular production line going there. Definitely do the T-shirt with the 'Friends don't let friends buy cheap plywood." Enjoy all of your videos no matter what you do. Take care, stay well and my best to you and Ava,
It is a popular misconception that stick-built/brick and mortar homes have walls that are plumb, corners that are square and floors that are level. In my many years of contracting I find this is not the case. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.
Had to use matchsticks to keep my eyes open while waiting for Sailing Life , now I'm wide awake. 😄👍👍👍
Awesome dude ! Love your videos. A few suggestions if I may. 1. Grease your wheels extra, on drawer slides. 2. Definitely get moisture absorbers every place you can, especially behind your electric panels. 3. If your not going to solder your wire ends, at least heat shrink them. Navionics look great, consider a large enough area for computer/editing work. Cheers 👍👍🏅💚
Got only one thing to say. “ Pretty Dang Spiffy”.
Why do only 10% of his subscribers actually thumbs-up the videos?... kinda sad. He does such good work.
No doors on the long term storage. I would put up some type of fabric that can breath. It would suck to open up your winter clothes to find them covered in mold.
Either that or get those vacuum bags for long term stowage.
Crikey Mads that is one hell of a to do list. When you get to the stage of just actually sailing her I can't help think you will be constantly looking for something to sand.
I think Mads will make a chess set or something hand crafted
This is so funny...!
I'm putting shelves in my closet and was about to order some plywood...
Looks like I'm ordering the good stuff now!
D.I.Y. tip:
Always ask yourself, "What would Mads do?"
Funny when i signed on a sailboat for a crewing position ; the skipper said everything i would need should fit in one dufflebag !
& I'm sure Mads' kit will ;-)
For a few short weeks or a couple of months that is certainly the case.
For long-term cruising on your own boat, when you no longer own a home on dirt, things are very different.
This is especially true when cruising in different climates, including colder ones. For a few weeks in the Caribbean you can get by with practically nothing. Then can you go home to your closet full of clothes when you are done playing sailor crew.
You do the best "fast-forward" video of any channel I watch. We see what's going on and are not bored with long drawn out real time video. Great job.
I found this channel in late December. Oh Glorious Binge Watching has now come to an end as I'm fully caught up. :( As for the plywood (or anything else for that matter) Ruskin on prices:
“It's unwise to pay too much, but it's worse to pay too little. When
you pay too much, you lose a little money - that's all. When you pay
too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you
bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The
common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a
lot - it can't be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well
to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will
have enough to pay for something better.”
In Mads We Trust! Great job buddy! I know someone is saying it for sure but vent holes for the storage locker is ideal to keep the clothing stored inside "wearable" later and combat the moisture build up. Oh Glorious sanding and venturing well into overkill territory is in the video... PERFECT!
My hat goes off to anyone who can still smile while standing next to that epic to-do list!
You should keep a plaque size panel from one of Athena's original panels and write something on it. Maybe a special date (your engagement etc), or a special "Saying" and mount is somewhere inside as a momento.
Top drawer seems a bit high to be useful. Maybe just add doors to make into shelves.
Exactly what I wanted to add
@@gadenhertog and me! ha ha
Maybe he can mount the upper drawers upside-down so that a shorter person can access them from the bottom.
And me too, same comment. In fact, I would say top 2-3 drawers are basically unusable, and I would suggest converting that upper most section into just a cabinet for larger folded items or to hold a removeable storage bin.
Remove the top three and it is a usable hanging space or bulk storage.
Gonna pull the drawers down on your head before you can see inside.
Thought only two shelves would be enough, seems a bit overkill to put in that many. More and more wasted space when you keep adding pieces and clearance.
Still always defer to Mads.
In the early 70’s my dad taught me a few wood working rules. #1. 2x4 studs are .50 so buy extra, you will use them. #2 use marine grade plywood, it’s only 20 bucks a sheet and it’s worth it. I do wish these rules stayed true.
Looks like we are now into the 'Oh so Glorious Gluing' phase of construction. Less dust, just as much work! While 'soldered' connections are the 'Holy Grail' of terminations, crimping with di-electric grease in each connector is pretty much equal as far as connectivity and corrosion resistance. None of my 'greased' connectors corroded or failed over ten years of sailing. It's such a cheap form of insurance, it's not worth skipping, 8P
Thanks for the video. Look forward to these on Sundays. I'd remove the top drawer and turn it into a shelf as it will be hard to get into. I'd also turn the two bottom drawers into one larger drawer so you have somewhere to put those inevitably taller than 7" items that wouldn't fit otherwise.
I waited 3 week so i could watch all at once :) i Just love the boat.
You are just that guy that does everything well. Envious but immensley impressed.👍
Thank you so much!
@@SailLife Everything is looking great Mads! But don't go crazy trying to meet an artificial deadline. Take the time to do the work without compromising the comfort and safety of the boat.
Your videos always fly by. I look forward to them every Sunday. Very interesting content, and I really enjoy your personal touch! Thanks for sharing your adventure.
I'm enjoying the steady Americanisation of your accent.
Mads, for ventilation under the madras in the v-berth, you could make a raised "false" floor (50mm?) with ventilationholes in it.
that nmea network display looks fantastic
Completely off topic: I noticed that this video has about a 20% upvote rate, that's double what most videos on TH-cam seem to get. Good job! Says great things about your content and your community engagement.
so you get 3 drawers and she gets 5...smart guy! :P Stoked to see the electronics/etc coming online.
Crimping is ABYC Standard. Soldering makes a hard shell that can crack. Add an adhesive heatshrink wrap for extra protection and coat terminals and lugs with an anti-corrosion agant such as petroleum jelly or dielectric grease.
Ahhhhh 'Thickened Epoxy'... Linh from 'Onboard Lifestyle'..... Just loves 'Thickened Epoxy' It makes her very merry!
She sure does! 🥃
Crimp is the modern standard for terminal connection. Good enough for NASA, good enough for me. I put a band of masking tape around the terminal to secure it to the wire during crimping. Less chance of the lug shifting.
A stranded cable shouldn't be soldered when getting crimped. It can add stress and worse it reduced the contact surface
That is correct. I have a hydraulic crimper from Temco, six tons of pressure for up to 2/0
One of your better videos in a while Mads, good idea with mixing the content. Keep it up👍
That top set of drawers will be hard to access or see into. That would be a nice place for a set of shoe racks or blankets or something with a lifting door versus a drawer.
Always look forward to your videos. I look forward to the day my wife and I buy our sailboat.
This fall I bought a Westwind 35 Nauta. I will not be doing as much work on it as you are doing on your boat, but you sure are an inspiration! Thanks!
What no fancy lighting for the drawers and closet space? Looks a little dark in there...Always entertaining thanks Mads
There is an option for converting older engines to NMEA2K. Actisense do a gateway called EMU-1 that will convert any analogue engine signals into NMEA2K format and works with any engine - and one unit will cater for up to 2 engines. I have one of these on a 1989 Bayliner 4555 and it works great with the 2 Hino lumps, just a bit more wiring than the engine specific gateways for modern engines!
There is a reason my ancestors left Northern Europe for the southeastern US a few hundred years ago. Screw that cold weather!
Sunday is great again 🙏
Highly recommend Yacht Devices YDCC-04 circuit control or digital switching. I've two of them. Fun to switch on electric heater, diesel heater, lights or whatever remotely from home. Currently one of them is controlled by a YDHS, switching electric heater on/off depending on set temperature range to keep my lithiums above 5°C ready for charging.
For the upper one or two drawers you could cut one side down to the glider rail to make the contents visible ans accessible from the side.
Take the top shelf out and make it a swinging door as access (up would be nice) - then when you hit your head on it you'll remember this comment. Otherwise don't see how you'd use the top and penultimate drawer. As a bonus you get better access to the mast cabling, if you ever needed it.
Hi Mads, inspirational stuff.
When you come to insulate, if you have not already thought about it, you might check out where to include a vapour barrier in the build-up, ’cos the hull grp gets cold in high latitudes and the warm air inside gets humid. You don’t want condensation occurring inside the insulation layers and especially keeping the glue dry.
I love what you do here I reference your stuff for my refit on Sailing Samantas your channel and boatworks today are my top two! Thank you for what you do!
Soldering wires is so 1940's. The electrical industry went to crimp and other types mechanical wire connections many decades ago. It wasn't just for ease of installation either. A soldered connection is inferior in almost every way, except for low-current miniature and sub-miniature board-level connections to wire leads and mounted components.
The only real exception is exothermic welding of conductors. This is mainly only really used in large grounding installations and lightning protectiom systems. This technique is where the conductors are basically fused together in special high-temperature molds/crucibles using powdered copper and essentially gunpowder to melt the multiple parts together into a single solid copper piece.
But there are always old-school holdouts on soldering wires. I also hear there are still some physicians out there who still use leaches and maggots...
88K Subs...Getting there Mads.. GREAT to see, you have like 500K fewer than you should. Stuff is really coming together, that MEA2000 is the cat's meow for sure. Wish I had that when I had my boat, but nooooooo....old analog gauges that never worked right...even the new ones I bought never worked "right".
When I made up new battery cables for my boat, I both crimped the terminals then melted solder into them, thenshrink wrapped over the joint. If you do that, the cables will last much longer.
Thanks Mads. Your patient approach gives me hope for my projects. I'm sure ill be cussing and sweating. I'll try to be Zen about. Thanks again
Now, Mads, where are you going to put YOUR clothes😉
@Hannes Coetzee *_ WHERE Boetie, WHERE, nie 'were' nie _* Ha Ha
He is going to tow Obelix behind him :)
Next to the engine, of course. Or, possibly in the technical compartment.
He'll keep his clothes wherever it keeps his wife to be happy. Yes I've been married awhile.
@@kb1esx Haha, I get that impression. :)
I do like the mix of projects, I take it that the fwd cabin is going to be painted as well? That ought to give you more light and a bigger feeling….
Great Vid just loved it work and talk, most vids are to much talk and very little work boring.
Cheers Buddy she is really coming together I bet when all those screens lit up it was a massive sigh of relief well done.
I think your clothing locker will stand up to a cat 4 hurricane :) Pretty Dang Sturdy! Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
I agree with you regarding crimping high amperage connectors. I have found soldered connectors that the solder has heated and ran out of during use.
Lovely video I'm impressed with how you pace the content in the videos. And for the light in the electrical compartment I would recommend a battery-powered "wand type" in a charging bracket. The odds for needing a battery powerd light when opening that compartment under sail is high ;)
Mads - yet another crazily productive video. Personally I think it was a good decision to cheap out on the plywood for the drawers. Yeah for sure it has voids - but they are not structural and only you (well and all of us) know about them.
By the way I agree, tracksaws are the mutts nuts when it comes to working with sheet material.😀👍⛵️
You should add a Light on the liner
Directly above and close to the drawers, this would help a great deal.
Excellent work! Great to see Athena in the water again! Re-watching your vids, that “All Videos” playlist is awesome!
Whew At 6:54 he finally mentions epoxy! I was getting worried he was going in dry.
I have been following the progress for years and with the exception of when you talk about Ava I have never heard you get as excited when your displays fired up. I can't wait to see the complete network up and running.
I wired machine controls 40 years Detroit, go buy yourself a roll of velcro and use it to bundle wires together so you can reuse it, please do not use ty rap zip ties etc.
if you do use zip ties the black or colored ones usually are for outdoors, the white or clear one will last maybe 2 years outdoors.
put some of that wire tray on the door too make it look spiffy....put a spare loop of wire for each wire so it can reach any point in the panel. add spare wires labeled one thru 30 in your wire runs even terminate spare wires and label them for future use.when everything is all wired up make a plexiglass cover for the door breakers so because you know you will set tools on it when you are working in there LOL...those lugs ar coated with nickel and silver when folks sand them that coating comes off and your lugs or terminal rings will corrode.....car plants actually require 30 to 40 % spare wires in all wire runs for future use
I have watched many of your videos. How was I not subscribed?! Fixed that problem right away.
Another great video; I just wish they were longer.
Whatever happened to the head? Did you finish it, if so, there was no video. The workmanship was beautiful. Naturally I'd love to see the finished product!
Crimping is 100% correct, Mads. Quite simply, those who suggest soldering are wrong :)
We have lately started using Tesla battery packs for all our solar system. We get them used or I should say salvage some come from smart cars and other places, but they are easy to take apart and reconfigure to fit in about any space.
Yes, work down washing hands. Relax and watching your work Mads. Thanks you.
It's getting exciting! ⛵
I’m not a sailer! more of a land lover, but I find your Vlogs really interesting and enjoyable to watch. 🤓
20 minutes... That was a fast paced video !! Beautiful !
Consider the moisture levels against the hull..maybe store cloths in plastic boxes...
Right but consider vacuum bags where you can suck out the air between the clothes. They're tight so no mold.
Line the inside of the drawers with “bacteria and mold killing” UV lights
Really interesting, the versatility of the data bus coupled to the Garmin display is impressive. Thanks
"Somewhat extensive refit" is definitely an understatement for this project! But I'm enjoying every minute of it. Fair winds for 2021!
That's a lot of work you got done this week. Seeing the electronic doodads being connected and working is really satisfying.
I wonder if your boat will squeak in a big sea. My boat had wood sides that rubbed against the floor in a big seaway. Finally trimmed the wood wall to eliminate the sound. Don’t worry you can fix it quickly.
Really like that you did several different projects. Makes the videos really entertaining.
sailing uma has great ideas for interior stuff
Consider leaving the top two gaps as shelves instead of drawers. From YT's perspective, it might be too high for the drawer. As always, great video, and I can't wait for next week already.
haha.. I was about to comment the same.. 2 top should be a cabinet. you can;t see the content in drawers....
You could arrange it so the drawer bottom was at the top so everything just fell out when you opened it.😉😂
A clear bottom is another option.
@@stdenisbros Indeed a clear bottom is a thing to be proud of.😂
It's looking awesome Mads, can't wait to see you sailing it in the South Pacific!
Great work mads! Regulair best part of my sunday.
Hooking up the angry pixies really put a smile on your face Mads👏😂
Nice job Mads, building drawers is hard. I would have started with the long term storage area, I hope you will have enough wiggle room to work with the drawers in the way 😉
I would of made the bottom shelf 12 inches deep for larger items of clothing jumpers. And then maybe the second shelf from the bottom 9 inches for large items. I hope that you will insulate the hull at the back of the long-term storage. I like the link for the engine to be put onto all the digital instruments.
I look forward to watching this each week.
I really liked the 30 min. versions of your videos. ;)
If you put your pc monitor in the nav station on a swivel mount, you could swing it over to use it as a tv for the seating area
Loved this video (as all the previous ones). I like the fact that you mixed wood work with electronics, I found the NMEA network is impressive!
Mads - great episode. Yes, I liked the mix of tech and woodworking. Your opening shot showing the nav station was great. Things are really coming along. BTW, solder is pronounced without the L - like the animal otter but with an S. Thanks, Ron
No! In English speaking areas (except the USA) solder is pronounced as its written (with the L included)
For the light behind the electric panel I would use one of these emergency lights with a battery fallback.
It's all interesting, and the information feedback is invaluable, as much for me as for Athena and her rebuild! Great Video.
High quality as usual :-) The new divices are real fun. Thanks!
Great progress Mads; can't wait to see the Li install. Cheers.
looks great thanks for sharing and keep up the great work. see you next week stay safe and enjoy life
Very nice work and video. Please share with us how you did the electrical panel. I am interested in the wiring as I looks cool. Especially those rails.
I think the funniest thing you’ve ever said was to refer to houses being square!
Coming along nicely. You should put up a little countdown clock now that you are getting close(relatively) to sailing. I am liking the variety for sure
Bad idea. If the remaining work is rushed, it could compromise the safety of the boat.
@@thesteve7397 bro, you need to relax. Mads hasn’t rushed anything. He’s done everything properly so far. What do you think his task board is but exactly the same as what I’m talking about. With his deadline in his head already, a visual clock won’t make a dit of difference
From what I've heard in the past, soldering in automotive/boating setting is not recommended. With the constant vibration, over time can weaken the connection but far more important is the fact that the different metals can create resistance that can creates heat points. (AKA "fire") Have you ever seen an automobile/boat with soldered joints from the factory? A well made crimp is always the best.
If crimped well, the copper gets compressed to form a single wire. I used to run cables in an exchange, we used a hydraulic crimper, I cut a connection in half once and never saw any strands left, tbey wete all compressed into one wire.
That will be a great solution in the end. Can't wait to see the finished forward cabin.