Outstanding! I have watched I don't know how many videos covering this. Always intimidating. You did a very good presentation of this. It looks pretty straight forward now., and not so intimidating. Thank You!
Glad this helped you. After this part I rebuilt the rear end with all new bearings. That was too much for a video tho. I learned a lot of new stuff there.
i need to change the bearing of an axle of my 1978 dodge charger RT and i didn´t know that to take out a screw inside of differential axis. Thank so much, buddy. Greetings from São Paulo, Brazil.
OMG pins and clips thanks for a great video I'd use that super clean on front end parts before I would start any repairs and anywhere else that accumulates grease Thanks again
My slide hammer with the special attachments came from Snap On. Here’s an affordable option for removal: www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD19XFG/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_3SSAKTBSKS3GAY9HDAP7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=carsmartsny-20 Here’s an option for the bearing driver for install: amzn.to/3QLsYCo
I have a 2000 dodge Dakota with a rear disc brake conversion done on it. I just replaced all the calipers, pads, and rotors, as well as the rubber brake hose on the rear passenger side. My passenger side rear wheel is getting insanely hot after driving just a few minutes when compared to the other side. And it makes this bad squeaking noise when turning and when reversing. Im not having braking issues and I do not notice any grease or fluid leaking. Im lost and my last thought is that I have a bad wheel bearing. Any suggestions?
That’s a tough one for sure. I don’t think a bad bearing on it’s own would make the whole wheel that hot. If I was having the same problem I would take another look at the caliper on that side and make sure nothing is binding and keeping the pressure on the rotor. How about parking brake adjustment? Does this conversion keep parking brake shoes inside the rotor hat? Maybe that’s too tight?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Got it figured out, the outside brake pad was not floating back off of the rotor so it was keeping just enough pressure on it to make it get hot.. We spaced out the caliper with super skinny washers to get the pad off of the rotor and it has been fine since.. I'm still getting the squeaking noise for some reason, especially when reversing.. I'm going to add washers to the driver side and check the rear end fluid to make sure everything is good and go from there.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks for the reply. I just finished the job, now she just need to be filled. Your video was helpful and straight to the point and for that you deserve a like.
@@NitrousDe yeah, you definitely want new fluid. I remember I had to some checking on my truck to determine which rear end it had and whether or not it was limited-slip. There’s a “8.25” and a “9.25” option with and without LSD I think. I recommend you research your specific differential. I wouldn’t want to tell you the wrong thing. You basically need the correct gear lube with an LSD friction modifier additive if you have limited slip.
I think the issue here was that if I flipped that part around I’d be hammering on the individual bearing cylinders instead of the outer race of the bearing.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok... i wanna thank you because you are one of the few who makes videos with details of what might happen and explain how to correct it or do it.
@@francistorr53 Thanks for your feedback. I believe that if someone has already learned a lesson the hard way that they can share it with other to ease their frustration.
That bearing is oil lubricated that’s why it’s behind the seal. A little differential oil would be ok before installing and may make it easier to install. Good luck
So I’m doing bearings and seals on a 2004 Dakota RWD. The seals that I pulled off have a lip on the outside, but the replacement part number they pulled at autozone was a flush fit (like the one in this video). Will the flush fit seal work, do you think? They were not able to pull a part that was N exact match with the lip
They SHOULD work fine. The lip on the outside isn’t really a sealing surface. The ring that rubs the inner race of the axle tube is what seals the outside of the seal.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks for the reply! Would you recommend putting a light bead of RTV around the outside edge of the seal, or would you just jam it in as is?
I ended up getting both the bearings and seals in. It seemed like the RTV wasn’t really doing much, it all seemed to get scraped off when the seals went in. I had issues getting the second seal to seat evenly.. it kept getting pushed to one side or another no matter what I tried. I ended up putting the seal in a plastic bag and throwing it in the freezer for a couple hours. Then when it was ready I took an electric space heater and used it to warm up the hub. That combo seemed to do the trick, it went in fairly easily after that. I’ve got the diff cover back on and going to let the RTV sit overnight before I add fluid and test it out..
There’s only three possible fluids in the area: gasoline, brake fluid and gear lube from the axle. If it doesn’t smell like gas, your brakes work good (and not losing brake fluid according to the reservoir) then you should check the differential fluid level. Pull the rubber plug off the cover and the fluid should either drip just a couple drops or yo should be able to reach a finger inside the check hole and get a little fluid on your fingertip at the lowest part of the fill hole. If you can’t get any diff fluid on your finger at all…then you’re most likely leaking out the seal on your driver side. Pull the brake drum and you’ll probably see all kinds of buildup in there as the dust and dirt get trapped in the leaking fluid.
You can use super clean to take the ink off of one dollar bills and then you can print hundreds back on the same paper you need to soak the bills in super clean over night.
Could be this bearing, or it could be internal to the differential. Maybe check the differential fluid if you haven’t recently? If the bearing is bad, you could have some leakage at the ends of the axles where these bearings are.
Outstanding!
I have watched I don't know how many videos covering this. Always intimidating.
You did a very good presentation of this. It looks pretty straight forward now., and not so intimidating.
Thank You!
Glad this helped you. After this part I rebuilt the rear end with all new bearings. That was too much for a video tho. I learned a lot of new stuff there.
Cool! Appreciate you showing how change out the wheel bearings! Thank you
i need to change the bearing of an axle of my 1978 dodge charger RT and i didn´t know that to take out a screw inside of differential axis. Thank so much, buddy. Greetings from São Paulo, Brazil.
OMG pins and clips thanks for a great video I'd use that super clean on front end parts before I would start any repairs and anywhere else that accumulates grease Thanks again
my seal on the yolk decied to start leaking would I need to take out the diff to replace the seal? if not what would be the steps to do that
Exelente trabajo saludos de mexico
I have 2001 Durango SLT i love it. #CleanBeast
I was wondering what is the name and make of the sliding bearing remover and tool you used to reinsert the bearing??
Thanks
My slide hammer with the special attachments came from Snap On. Here’s an affordable option for removal: www.amazon.com/dp/B08FD19XFG/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_3SSAKTBSKS3GAY9HDAP7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=carsmartsny-20
Here’s an option for the bearing driver for install: amzn.to/3QLsYCo
Thank you!
I have a 2000 dodge Dakota with a rear disc brake conversion done on it. I just replaced all the calipers, pads, and rotors, as well as the rubber brake hose on the rear passenger side. My passenger side rear wheel is getting insanely hot after driving just a few minutes when compared to the other side. And it makes this bad squeaking noise when turning and when reversing. Im not having braking issues and I do not notice any grease or fluid leaking. Im lost and my last thought is that I have a bad wheel bearing. Any suggestions?
That’s a tough one for sure. I don’t think a bad bearing on it’s own would make the whole wheel that hot. If I was having the same problem I would take another look at the caliper on that side and make sure nothing is binding and keeping the pressure on the rotor. How about parking brake adjustment? Does this conversion keep parking brake shoes inside the rotor hat? Maybe that’s too tight?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Got it figured out, the outside brake pad was not floating back off of the rotor so it was keeping just enough pressure on it to make it get hot.. We spaced out the caliper with super skinny washers to get the pad off of the rotor and it has been fine since.. I'm still getting the squeaking noise for some reason, especially when reversing.. I'm going to add washers to the driver side and check the rear end fluid to make sure everything is good and go from there.
So should I drain the differential first ? I'm about to do this right now on a 1999 dodge Durango 4×4
Yes. When you remove the rear cover it will drain itself. Mine did not have a drain plug, only a fill plug.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks for the reply. I just finished the job, now she just need to be filled. Your video was helpful and straight to the point and for that you deserve a like.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY is there a special differential fluid I should use because the old fluid was super black and I dont want to reuse it
@@NitrousDe yeah, you definitely want new fluid. I remember I had to some checking on my truck to determine which rear end it had and whether or not it was limited-slip. There’s a “8.25” and a “9.25” option with and without LSD I think. I recommend you research your specific differential. I wouldn’t want to tell you the wrong thing. You basically need the correct gear lube with an LSD friction modifier additive if you have limited slip.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok thanks I will research what I need to know. Enjoy your evening and thanks for the replys
Nice job well explained thxs
Isnt that backwards, on that bearing driver? Doesn't the tapered side go in the bearing? I'd think that would keep it aligned.
I think the issue here was that if I flipped that part around I’d be hammering on the individual bearing cylinders instead of the outer race of the bearing.
Best video so far... But i noticed that you installed the new seal backward, based on minute 6:16 and 9:24 on this video....does it matter??
It’s not backwards, it has a slightly different design.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok... i wanna thank you because you are one of the few who makes videos with details of what might happen and explain how to correct it or do it.
@@francistorr53 Thanks for your feedback. I believe that if someone has already learned a lesson the hard way that they can share it with other to ease their frustration.
With respect, why didn’t you force grease into the bearing before inserting?
Didn’t think about that technique. Good suggestion tho.
That bearing is oil lubricated that’s why it’s behind the seal. A little differential oil would be ok before installing and may make it easier to install. Good luck
So I’m doing bearings and seals on a 2004 Dakota RWD. The seals that I pulled off have a lip on the outside, but the replacement part number they pulled at autozone was a flush fit (like the one in this video). Will the flush fit seal work, do you think? They were not able to pull a part that was N exact match with the lip
They SHOULD work fine. The lip on the outside isn’t really a sealing surface. The ring that rubs the inner race of the axle tube is what seals the outside of the seal.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks for the reply! Would you recommend putting a light bead of RTV around the outside edge of the seal, or would you just jam it in as is?
@@benwiley5340 RTV doesn’t hurt.
I ended up getting both the bearings and seals in. It seemed like the RTV wasn’t really doing much, it all seemed to get scraped off when the seals went in. I had issues getting the second seal to seat evenly.. it kept getting pushed to one side or another no matter what I tried. I ended up putting the seal in a plastic bag and throwing it in the freezer for a couple hours. Then when it was ready I took an electric space heater and used it to warm up the hub. That combo seemed to do the trick, it went in fairly easily after that. I’ve got the diff cover back on and going to let the RTV sit overnight before I add fluid and test it out..
@@benwiley5340 awesome. The freezer trick is perfect. I’ve used that before as well. One of the better things I’ve learned.
Joe how did you know the seal was bad? Iv got Fluid leaking down my tire in the rear on the driver side
There’s only three possible fluids in the area: gasoline, brake fluid and gear lube from the axle. If it doesn’t smell like gas, your brakes work good (and not losing brake fluid according to the reservoir) then you should check the differential fluid level. Pull the rubber plug off the cover and the fluid should either drip just a couple drops or yo should be able to reach a finger inside the check hole and get a little fluid on your fingertip at the lowest part of the fill hole. If you can’t get any diff fluid on your finger at all…then you’re most likely leaking out the seal on your driver side. Pull the brake drum and you’ll probably see all kinds of buildup in there as the dust and dirt get trapped in the leaking fluid.
I have 2005 Dodge Durango is it the same process?
I’m not 100% sure but it SHOULD be similar. This is a basic design of a solid rear axle system.
Giveaway is prolly closed but i need to shine up my toes
Super Clean has asked me to choose another recipient for a giveaway. Still want some free degreaser?
👍
You can use super clean to take the ink off of one dollar bills and then you can print hundreds back on the same paper you need to soak the bills in super clean over night.
Joe..where in ny??
Central NY. Near Syracuse.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY awesome video
I would use it on my
Clean an engine
My 2000 durango sport makes a noise in left rear when turning right only. Im not sure what it is. Any suggestions?
Could be this bearing, or it could be internal to the differential.
Maybe check the differential fluid if you haven’t recently? If the bearing is bad, you could have some leakage at the ends of the axles where these bearings are.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thx for the quick response. I'll check that out this evening when it's not 110 outside