Sovol SV06 Dual 5015 upgrade Instruction guide | "Crustacean Nation Ventilation Station"

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
  • Okay, thank you for Michael W from the FB group for the name "Crustacean Nation Ventilation Station", lol. We finnally here, the dual 5015 part cooling fan upgrade for sovol sv06.
    The hanging on the back is inspired by Scattered Collectables 5015 part cooling duct, which is best solution for mount location for this printer so far.
    This design is not nearly perfect yet. I would like to call it Guinea pig version. There are still a lot room for improving. I will continue working on this, if you are patience enough, just wait for my update. Also this is for someone that want to print high speed and some crazy overhang model, it is not necessary upgarde for everyone. If you are beginner, please take serious consideration.
    This development process takes long time, initial design, test print, revising, test print again, revising again, testing on machine. Figuring out the tolrance, strength, style, and more…(Kills a lot of my brain cells) Finally a okay version is here, like I mentioned there still room for improving.
    Con at this point:
    You will lose around 6mm on the left of the x axis, 10mm on the right. The homing postion will be change!
    Dual 5015 are very loud. I can hear it from other room with door closed..
    fan duct design still not perfect. On the rear right of the nozzle still not enough air flow.
    You will need to change the sensorless homing from the printer.
    If you have questions, suggestions, commons you can leave it here. I usually replay very quick.
    Parts list:
    M3 * 25mm socket cap screws x2
    M3 * 20mm socket cap screws x2
    M4 * 20mm socket cap screws x2
    M3 & M4 nuts x2 each
    5015 blower x2
    1.25mm JST 2 pin micro connector plug x1
    STL file link : Free to download
    www.printables.com/model/3820...
    My affiliate:
    Link to purchase Sovol SV06: No extra cost on you and I can get some commission.
    sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv...
    SV06 Review:
    • Sovol SVO6 Review | Bu...
    SV06 Beginner tutorial, common issues checking lists:
    • Sovol SV06 Beginner tu...
    SV06 Linear rod, bearing lubricate guide:
    • Sovol SV06 linear rod,...
    SV06 Extruder Gear common issue repair guide:
    • SV06 Extruder Gear com...
    SV06 Bed Leveling guide:
    • Sovol SV06 Bed Levelin...
    Intro: 0:00
    Con of this design so far 0:44
    Tools needed 2:34
    Parts needed 2:56
    Assembly guide 4:24
    Dual 5015 blower in parallel wiring 6:55
    install on printer 12:26
    Test print compare before and after 13:29
    ___________________________________________________________________________________________________
    #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprint #3dprinted #creality #sovol #biqu #bigtreetech #anycubic #xyzprinting #flashforge #prusa #ender #ender3 #ender3pro #ender3v2 #ender3s1 #diy #diytool #3d打印 #impresion3d #3дпечать #drucken #druck
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ความคิดเห็น • 47

  • @Cronamash
    @Cronamash 3 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hello, excellent guide and a really cool model to boot! I just installed it on my SV06+ and have a couple notes:
    This model does not affect my homing distance, but be careful not to lower the duct on top of a part on the bed. I'm still getting used to Klipper, and snapped a duct off. A little Super Glue got it back together, and I'm printing a new one.
    Also, if you have an SV06+, you will want to use two M3x30 screws to attach the print to the hot head. The M3x25 were not long enough to mount it securely.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      glad you like it

  • @obliviousorange287
    @obliviousorange287 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I'm excited to see where this model will go in the future. Perhaps eventually it might not make the printer lose those millimeters of space?
    We will continue to watch your career with great interest. 👍

    • @John-gm8ty
      @John-gm8ty 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      this is exactly what I was thinking too.

  • @jensschroder8214
    @jensschroder8214 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    This is a heavy weight solution. I only installed one 5015 blower from behind.
    That's enough and I can see the nozzle from the front.
    There are also no problems with the width when homeing.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes, this solution is overkill and not really fully developed yet. Also, when the dual fans run 100% it sounds so loud. Still improving it.

  • @John-gm8ty
    @John-gm8ty 6 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    excellent work mate.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      thanks mate!

  • @removethelimits
    @removethelimits 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Awesome work, thank you!

  • @eclypse3d
    @eclypse3d ปีที่แล้ว

    I would split the two fans into dedicated dual ducts at an angle to hit from the four directions i.e. left fan if you are looking at a square does upper and lower left with the nozzle in the middle and right does right upper and lower and position them so they cross like and x and gap between left and right is open so you can see the nozzle still. The fans are overkill, This will balance out the direction flow as you are pitting the duct against each other, and will give you nearly 360 degree coverage. Right now there is a decent single fan solution that pushes good air on its own and does essentially the same thing so if you are going this step, I would also consider making the further ducts to the front corners slightly smaller in diameter to force the air to move slightly faster to balance out the loss of pressure from exiting the first duct at rear corners as well.

  • @mikejones-vd3fg
    @mikejones-vd3fg ปีที่แล้ว +1

    nice

  • @suzyamerica4679
    @suzyamerica4679 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hello. Just found this. Last weekend I designed a very primitive dual 5015 blower bracket for the SV07plus. It's up on Printables. It's not pretty, but it seems to be working. Wondering if you were having a similar problem as this: when I tried a PETG print, it quickly became apparent that the parts fan cooling profile needed some editing for that filament. Particularly, when doing overhangs on inside turns, that excess cooling will cause the filament to shrink very quickly and pull out threads on the insides of turns. Found this by printing S-hooks. Working now to tune the parts fan speeds for the PETG profile.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Generally you want to set the fan speed to 0 to 20% for PETG. Reduce the printing speed for overhangs. Or reduce the overall printing speed.

    • @suzyamerica4679
      @suzyamerica4679 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@SvgLau Thanks! Over some test printing the last few days, I had moved the cooling speeds down to 8-18% in the slicer, and told it to slow down printing when a layer takes less than 40 seconds. Every filament is different, right?

  • @TheKrikje010
    @TheKrikje010 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi,
    If you have overkill cooling you can use it at 50% which should make it a lot quieter.
    Also if you use inserts you can make the rear setup thinner because you don't need the space for the nuts.
    I watched this without sound, so i don't know if you talked about it.
    You can save ~5mm that way.
    If you want to keep the nuts, perhaps you can split the rear fan mount in halves. Then you can insert the nuts, and connect the two halves together, eith superglue maybe.
    The fan is also not heavy so perhaps it doesn't need an m3 bolt and nut Perhaps a short wood screw is enough and then you can save some more space. The wood screw would bite into the casing of the fan itself. And then the fans can be mounted against eachother.

    • @TheKrikje010
      @TheKrikje010 ปีที่แล้ว

      Lol, the fans can't be mounted against eachother because of the air hole in the center. Stupid haha. :P

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you for great suggestions! I'm have similar thoughts on that to improve on version 2. It should be save all the travel on x axis. But the mount still a bit of pain to design.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Also, yes you are correct, reduce the max fan speed on slicer under 80% will reduce the noise a lot.

  • @lovrocatela8727
    @lovrocatela8727 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I don t know what kind of printheads for sv06 are available atm but it seems to me that it s much more worth it going for already tested printheads like hero me then doing something like this. Double 5015 should have much better impact then in this model. In water test you can barely see impact of fans which tells me that air is flowing in wrong direction. SV06 printhead is already so massive that I adding more parts on it just makes everything more clunky. Honestly I like that you put effort in it and tried something new but design of sv06 printhead doesn t look like it allows upgrades. I would rather just strip everything down and design everything from start and maybe implementing some sovol ideas.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Yes, it was pain in the a** to design over this printhead platform, everything is so packed together. Totally agree that would be better to starting a more flexible platform on it. But there is need for people that just want to simply upgrade on parts cooling, that's why this design come in to place. Is it good right now? No. But we could make it better and helpful for some groups of people. Maybe someday later we will carry on on better printhead.

    • @lovrocatela8727
      @lovrocatela8727 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@SvgLau have you tried to set 5015 in place of their 4010 at the bottom of print head and see how that works? It looks to me like it would fit and it's in perfect spot for their design. If it's really good then it might be better option then building big special upgrades just to add second 5015.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@lovrocatela8727 Yes, I have tried to use the 5015 replace the stock 4010, but 5015 is a lot thicker. It won't fit the space. That was a really good call, maybe I should try to do something with the stock mounting point.

    • @lovrocatela8727
      @lovrocatela8727 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SvgLau How is going to improve the part cooling? I just disassembledthe hotend and it seems like it would be possible to place 5015 in place of 4010 with few changes. The biggest problem is cable management but it could work out. It would be even easier for people who have volcano nozzle.

    • @SyrupSplash
      @SyrupSplash ปีที่แล้ว

      @@lovrocatela8727 Consider the fact that the 5015 would still be pulling air that's being heated from the bed; this design is better in this sense as it doesn't pull in air that's been in direct contact with the bed.

  • @Dustmuffins
    @Dustmuffins ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Any reason you used an asymmetrical design on the air nozzles? I tried modifying it to use the "closed" side on both sides and I've gotten better overhang performance in certain orientations.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว

      The extruder is the symmetrical if you take the back mount carrier as references point. You could technically set center plane and do symmetrical around the nozzle/hotend. But I just did it on mount plate, so.

  • @ZX10Ceez
    @ZX10Ceez ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would you be able to keep the front cooling fan for extra cooling?

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว

      The front cooling fan duct is on the way, also I don't know 3 24v in parallel is okay for the circuit. 2 5015 with correct direction air flow is already overkill.

  • @jailsonsouto9122
    @jailsonsouto9122 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi! Great job! It's is possible share fusion 360 files? I want to remix to sovol sv06 plus.
    Thanks in advance!

  • @edwyn1326
    @edwyn1326 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    👍🏻

  • @edwyn1326
    @edwyn1326 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hello, how are you? I'm having a problem with my sv06. When laminating the projects in Prusa, the objects are centered but for some reason when printing they are very far back from the bed. In some cases, if the print is large, they are on the outside, they are not centered as expected. You see on the computer screen that when the prints are finished the bed moves to the front so much that the motors make noises, how can I correct that?

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      so it is either your put home location wrong on slicer, or the printer have some issue (jaming) when homing. You could try to clear out the travel of build plate on y axis and confirm if move all the way to the front/back without issue. Second, check you prusaslicer "printer settings"- "size and coordinates" - "origin should be x:0 y:0." Last possible, firmware bug, it happend sometimes, if other two didn't work, maybe you can try flash frimware to fix it.

  • @David-wd5et
    @David-wd5et 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Any updates on this. Has anybody remixed this so it doesn't limit movement. This is my first 3 printer but I'm ok with modifying hardware and doing this but thinking about just buying th3d. The Th3d one is over 70$ Canadian with shipping! If i go with a print then can someone suggest a brand of 5015 24v fan

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      any ballbearing fan from amazon would be okay. Some one made remix of this design on printable, it should work better and without losing space on x axis.

    • @David-wd5et
      @David-wd5et 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@SvgLau I see 2 remixes, does it matter which one? Also do you recommend this or your single fan if noise is not a concern (somebody mentioned "ringing" BC of weight?). Thanks I'm following your guidance on everything for this printer. I'm wondering if the bearings will be better greased as the extruder had the 2 grub screws with thread locker that I mentioned in your other video. I took pictures of the new design but I don't know who to send them to lol

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@David-wd5et I believe the one with resin is more popular. But I think signle 5015 is good enough for most of the time, even if you are going for Klipper, 5015 is good enough. also, as you mentioned, less weight. I don't think that bearing on extruder will be matter whether if you grease it or not. It should rolling free between it's outter ring and inner ring.

    • @David-wd5et
      @David-wd5et 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@SvgLau so confused right now thought that it was very recommended to grease all the bearings? The guides refer to your videos even! My printer is new in parts so I thought it would be a little easier to do now. So you don't recommend!? To grease the bearing. I am planning to run klipper

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  5 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@David-wd5et Do you mean grease the bearing on the linear rod? or grease the bearing on the extruder. I was thought you mean the bearing on the extruder, since you was talking about extruder.
      But, yes, it is better you grease all the bearing on x, y, and z axis.

  • @bertkooijmans4769
    @bertkooijmans4769 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is the same for the sv06 plus right?

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว

      no, it is different

    • @bertkooijmans4769
      @bertkooijmans4769 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SvgLau my.brain didnt work with me haha.
      I meant the process of replacing the stock fan with the 5015.
      Plus has a couple fan duct versions now thanks to you.
      But to be safe sv06 fan was 24 volt and the sv06 too right i ordered a fan before the printer haha

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@bertkooijmans4769 yes, they are both 24v fan. Most of the FDM printers runing at 24v parts.

    • @bertkooijmans4769
      @bertkooijmans4769 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@SvgLau okay great because i saw the 24 volt in this video thinking it was the same as the plus haha

  • @edwyn1326
    @edwyn1326 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    the fan is 12v or 24v

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  6 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      24v

  • @ras0ne
    @ras0ne ปีที่แล้ว

    Man...my SV06 stress prints look way better using the OEM setup than yours. Maybe your settings are off.

    • @SvgLau
      @SvgLau  ปีที่แล้ว

      could be