En regardant l’ensemble des vidéos consacrées à cette restauration, l’on ne peut que reconnaître que vous mêlez professionnalisme et art. Vous être un gardien du patrimoine automobile. 🙏
@@jameshamm7167 Me too, always nice to see it in top coat, I'm still finishing off the filler work but it's not far off now. I will leave the car for a month or two in high build primer to let the paint shrink, then it's going to be final sanded and sprayed, I'm not spraying it myself as my facility's aren't up to scratch for top coats. I need to get the underneath in Upol raptor and get it back on its wheels soon. The axles are all powder coated and ready for assembly.
Hi Ben. Good to see you do it nearly like me, you can actualy messuring your skils In the layer og bodyfiller you use, when you are down to 3 layer you ar a proff, in the beginning i was on 5 to 6 and a lot of sanding. Thank for a another good video. Cheers Peter
Over the years, i developed a habit where as I add the coats of filler, since it's closer to the shape, i go finer in grits. Usually, start with 80 , 120 on second, and finish off with 180 plus 240 all over and in with the HB primer. Use to use 1k glaze putty for pin holes. That was a horrible thing to use. Top work the sir 👏 👌
Nothing wrong with that if it worked for you 👍. As you know the finer the grit the less effective it is at cutting, 80 and 120 are pretty course and effective at shaping. Likewise we don't want deep scratches for the paint to shrink into later when it comes to finishing.
Perfect job and advice Ben. There is an incorrect stigma regarding filler that has been passed on to bodywork novices by so-called professionals that really ought to know better. I am sure everyone who has a serious interest in cars knows of Chip Foose. He turns out cars that stun the world they are so good. Every car he does is skimmed all over in filler and then blocked to within a mm of its' life. I think it's worth mentioning though, that show cars and daily drivers are a different breed entirely. There is a quite common restoration technique of filling completely across the door gaps, then blocking across from the door to the adjacent panel. This gives a laser-straight finish when you sight down the car, and also lets you get the door gaps absolutely perfect. The problem is that the door edge has maybe 1 to 2mm of filler on it which makes it very weak when it comes to withstanding the slight knocks of people getting in and out. I guess a happy medium has to be struck sometimes.
Totally agree, I tried the fill and block right across the doors but don't think I'll do that again. Like you say it's weak on the edge, ok if you lead that area but not polyester filler. All it takes is someone shutting the door with the seatbelt in the shut and it will leave a large chip. Like you say fine for a show car but not for a car that's going to be used a lot. Slight curve towards the door gaps looks original to me. Defends what you like the look of I suppose. I watched chip foose on tv and Boyd coddington. I've seen Charlie from American hot rod using lead around the door gaps. It's a lot of work to do.
Thank you Ben. Answers to questions I have never even thought of. I can see a bit of crossover with drywall. I will manage a better job with a couple house repairs.
En regardant l’ensemble des vidéos consacrées à cette restauration, l’on ne peut que reconnaître que vous mêlez professionnalisme et art.
Vous être un gardien du patrimoine automobile.
🙏
Thank you very much for the kind comment. It's really appreciated 😊
Can't wait to see paint on this!
@@jameshamm7167 Me too, always nice to see it in top coat, I'm still finishing off the filler work but it's not far off now. I will leave the car for a month or two in high build primer to let the paint shrink, then it's going to be final sanded and sprayed, I'm not spraying it myself as my facility's aren't up to scratch for top coats.
I need to get the underneath in Upol raptor and get it back on its wheels soon. The axles are all powder coated and ready for assembly.
Hi Ben.
Good to see you do it nearly like me, you can actualy messuring your skils In the layer og bodyfiller you use, when you are down to 3 layer you ar a proff, in the beginning i was on 5 to 6 and a lot of sanding.
Thank for a another good video.
Cheers Peter
Thanks Peter 👍👍
You have the patience of a saint!🙏
Fascinating, skilful work as always. Pleasure to watch.
Over the years, i developed a habit where as I add the coats of filler, since it's closer to the shape, i go finer in grits. Usually, start with 80 , 120 on second, and finish off with 180 plus 240 all over and in with the HB primer. Use to use 1k glaze putty for pin holes. That was a horrible thing to use. Top work the sir 👏 👌
Nothing wrong with that if it worked for you 👍. As you know the finer the grit the less effective it is at cutting, 80 and 120 are pretty course and effective at shaping. Likewise we don't want deep scratches for the paint to shrink into later when it comes to finishing.
A lot of very useful information. Thanks for sharing 👍👌
Pleasure 👍
Perfect job and advice Ben. There is an incorrect stigma regarding filler that has been passed on to bodywork novices by so-called professionals that really ought to know better. I am sure everyone who has a serious interest in cars knows of Chip Foose. He turns out cars that stun the world they are so good. Every car he does is skimmed all over in filler and then blocked to within a mm of its' life. I think it's worth mentioning though, that show cars and daily drivers are a different breed entirely. There is a quite common restoration technique of filling completely across the door gaps, then blocking across from the door to the adjacent panel. This gives a laser-straight finish when you sight down the car, and also lets you get the door gaps absolutely perfect. The problem is that the door edge has maybe 1 to 2mm of filler on it which makes it very weak when it comes to withstanding the slight knocks of people getting in and out. I guess a happy medium has to be struck sometimes.
Totally agree, I tried the fill and block right across the doors but don't think I'll do that again. Like you say it's weak on the edge, ok if you lead that area but not polyester filler. All it takes is someone shutting the door with the seatbelt in the shut and it will leave a large chip.
Like you say fine for a show car but not for a car that's going to be used a lot. Slight curve towards the door gaps looks original to me. Defends what you like the look of I suppose.
I watched chip foose on tv and Boyd coddington. I've seen Charlie from American hot rod using lead around the door gaps. It's a lot of work to do.
Great bunch of tips, Ben.
Useful advice, as per normal. Thanks.
Excellent video Ben. Thank you!
Thank you Ben. Answers to questions I have never even thought of. I can see a bit of crossover with drywall. I will manage a better job with a couple house repairs.
👍 I'm sure there are similarities, I avoid work on houses like the plague so cant really compare that. I'll have to learn at some stage.
Thanks for sharing 👍
pleasure 👍
How can one justify the cost of this restoration
@@liambyrne591 The love of the car or you keep it long enough so that it's value increases with time.
Yawn! Boring!! Just kidding 😉 Just adding a comment to help the algorythm! A useful video for ANY Alfa Romeo owner.....!!
😂 thanks