I was just hired to prep for paint to learn the basics and to eventually become a painter. These videos are super helpful and amazingly informative for the audience. Thank you Brian for sharing your knowledge onto others!
Aww this is great. I love your approach. I grew up in a custom/production shop, spraying all sorts of things in a variety of means.. lacquers, urethanes, epoxy, oil/latex.. and even powedercoats.. but.. I'm a botton to top sprayer when spraying a chassis.. and only have painted a few cars, trucks.. 3 tractors (fully restoring them) two caterpillars and a road grader. I've never seen this level of guidance, and its beautiful, sensible, and I am taking all your steps to fix the full body damage to my 08 Audi a4 cabrio.. about a year ago it was keyed with several other cars when in Seattle.. someone backed into my car, then keyed the entire thing.. I just about had a heart attack. I did some work to it.. 18K in receipts a ton of work on engine/top/suspension/styling, flawless paint bought from a single owner at 60k mi. Three shops were between 21 and 24k in damage. Its been outside a while and got the PNW slime/mold on it.. so I need to detox the paint/trim.. removing the algae, mold/baked on nasty.. then cleanerwax, buff avoiding the heavily scratch/pits as much as I can so as not to pack them with product.. then wetsand the paint, isolate any chipping with the fiber pen, and one panel at a time, feather sand the scratch and then using an artist brush to paint the scratch divots with a very small batch mixed singlestage in a cup, let it cure then block it to get it back to a level surface, sand, then wetsand the entire car like you did (it was beautiful watching you do this part, and good call on avoiding corners doing it by hand!), then shoot the car in singlestage. I have some work to do.. since the car was backed into, pushed into another car.. the grill is on order, the bumpers are useable, bt the mounts need repair. the surface condition on the bumper are beat up due to dings/dents, but also scratches under where you pull into a curb too hard, or a driveway scratching the underside (the car is on coils).. Do you have any videos that focus on how to repair rash under the bumpers, or cracked plastic, paint cracking on the plastic bumpers? I ordered a plastic repair tool, and seen a couple videos.. hoping I can do it. The plastics have to get fixed first.. am building simple wood stands to hold the front and rear bumpers and make it a production job to do it.. doing this in the next week! Your videos and style help me find the confidence that I can use your skills and make this look even better so darth vader wants his car back. A question on sanding. I have a square pad Makita and a ton of grit paper to use today.. see any reasons not to use it? Or should I go get a random orbit (DA) sander.. if going that route.. I do have a 30 gallon Dewalt oil free compressor, but.. kinda like the idea of having a electric orbital.. any pro/cons here with the type of sander?
Ok I gotta say it, always put your compound and polish on your pad not on the car. You will reduce the sling by a significant amount. Im a Detailer and this is like the number one rule to never do lol! But that being said the door looked amazing and it never looked like it was damaged let alone repainted!
Actually that's a bad idea I'm a detailer and painter and I've seen many detailers put the product on the pad instead of the car and it causes more problems sadly. What happens when you put the product directly on the pad is it clogs up the pads much faster so all the cutting material in the pad can't be used to cut the paint and it will take much longer to get the scratches out especially on your step 1. Another problem it causes is the cutting compound overtime digs into the pad from being applied directly onto the pad and the compound sinks in and cuts down the material of the pad causing the pad to breakdown in those areas and needing to be replaced sooner. From experience I used to put it on the pad but it started costing me a lot of time and money so I tried putting it on the car and ever since it's been cutting much faster and smoother.
@@sgondor2768 just curious and no hate, are you priming the pad first, and is it for a Rotary polisher or a dual action? With rotary machines yes you put the compound or polish on the panel and then go. With dual action you have to prime the pad and then just put a few small dots on the pad and off you go. I paint as well and detail but I have learned over time that everyone has different techniques and they all seem to get the same results as everyone else.
Great video Brian. I’ve been watching for over a year. Used many of your videos and techniques to paint my own car in my garage last year and it came out fantastic. I recently have started working at a body shop working towards getting my painter/refinisher ticket, and I have to say that your videos and knowledge are better than anything they teach us at trace school. Your experience is invaluable! Thank you so much for sharing with us and making us all better and smarter.
Another cool video 👍 I can't run a compressor where I currently live, so I use an electric 5" DA with a router speed controller to vary the rpms. Works great!
Dear Brian, thank you so much for your program and shearing your experience with all of us, by watching your clips I have managed to paint 2 cars( so far), I am doing my 3rd car now, a 1972 Mercedes 280 SE, Iyou had a clip lately about a truck with cracks on the roof paint, I have the same problem on my car, I have sand the roof to bear metal but before spraying self etching primer do I need to treat the roof with anything just in case I miss couple points of rust, it looks clear now but I am worried that small particles of rust that I may have missed start coming through after couple of years. Looking forward to hear back from you. Thanks for everything.
I always say in my shop never finish with a rotary as it’s so difficult not to get trails great advice to finish with a D/A also great advice to use a polish rather than a compound as the paint will still be nice and soft the day after painting
Great tutorial! I have a challenge for you, if you want. I had a buddy that once used a roller to paint his truck; I told him he was an idiot and it would turn out like shit. I was wrong. It looked pretty good, once finished actually. Keep em coming Brian! 👍
Hi Brian, I use a downdraught booth so I paint from the bottom up like you because the overspray is taken away from the unpainted sections, if you use a booth that extracts from the end start from the fan end and move away from the fan but in a end extract booth up or down doesn't matter
How do you keep the clear coat from becoming wavey on a vertical surface like a door panel? Almost every paint job I've seen, even from high end shops, that unless the door is removed, the clear coat on the doors comes out looking very wavey when viewed at an angle by comparison with the original factory finish.
I just scuff the edges with a grey pad, or skim with red if your gentle enough, gotta let the product do some of the work! I used to be very excessive like this when I first started. Painter hygiene is important though I keep it simple now and produce same results. Clean gun, clean/degrease & INSPECT panels, wear gloves, blow off your suit, tac between coats!
Brian, what do you do with the Microfiber rags you have used? Do you throw it away as a "consumable", (you work it into the price of the paint work) or do you wash it again to be re-used? What is best practice for you?
As to the question of spraying from bottom to top because you see no advantage or disadvantage. Hold that thought. I noticed that you spray the rear panels first depending on which way the booth is sucking the overspray. Wouldn't that be a reason to start spraying at the top, because the overspray would be going downwards and getting on what you just painted? especially in a down draft booth. Body & paint is not my primary, but I have had my hands in it for more than 50 years and Im still learning! P.S. Your style is simple and to the point. Its awesome that you share your knowledge and skill set, influencing rookies and professionals all over the world! Its not hard to choose a competent mentor when the results speak for themselves! Much respect!
I will say I have become a better painter from watching your show. I have when in a rush used a razor blade to scrape the bump down. Then a light sanding and buffing and it's like it was never there.
Question, there is no need to blend the color with the panel next to that door? car body shop has to do a similar job for me and he said that has to paint the front door (the one repaired) plus the second row door to blend the color. Is it like this how it should be done?
Great video. Question, I have an old Tacoma that the clear is pretty much gone. Can I simply sand the base and reshoot the base then clear or do I need to spray primer on the sanded base?
So I was just in a accident and the damage is on a coupe it will need a new door and fender and most likely a bumper. Would the body shop do a full paint or just blend it because it’s basically the whole half of the car except the rear of the car but they’ll still have to blend into the back quarter panel and to the a pillar it seems like it would be better for full paint vs just blending?
Your videos are amazing and very detailed. I'm a DIY guy with no access to an enclosed garage and building on a budget. Is maaco a better option than painting a car yourself outside? I'd love to see you tackle an outside budget paint job like a can you do it cheaper than maaco or something might be a cool video and you seem like the type that might like the challenge. You give out plenty of tips and I appreciate it all man. Keep doing what you do!
yes I did learn a lot definitely for what I came here for which was to find out is it better to start from the bottom on up or to the top on down thank you so much for this video
Hi Brian! If i need to paint a used door that was black, and my basecoat is blue (it needs white primer). For inside can i use a white basecoat instead white primer/sealer, and than blue basecoat?
I have my 2008 Jeep JK - black paint with Arizona pinstripes from 4X4'ing. How hard would it be for a new'b like me to sand the clear coat, with 1000 or 800 and apply a second coat of paint that will only show in direct sunlight, say a cherry or burgundy red? Or do I need go all the way down to metal and start from there? Luckily I do have most of the equipment (compressor, sander/buffer and paint guns). I do lack a clean room, but I can outfit a garage to paint (PVC frame with plastic to enclose the car, would that work?). Thanks.
We called several body shops to have our black 2014 Mustang GT painted Fighter Jet Gray, and they only do insurance work. I hate to have to take it to Maaco, but if I do, I'll sand it down myself. Do I need to sand it down to the metal and what grit sandpaper do I use? The body is perfect and I have an air compressor.
My body shop sprayed a black metallic color on a couple swapped panels that came out a shade darker but a lot more and larger metallic flakes. Will that complicate a respray?
Can you recomend an economical spray gun for primer & another one for paint? Something with minimum orange peel results, just to paint my owncar! Also, when you spray 2nd coat clear, do you increase air pressure?
I just painted my car in Jaguar approved shop but I am not shure that the paint is the same hardnes and guality as OEM paint because it shows little scratches on the door very fast. So is this nornal or all OEM paints are of better quality thanks in advance cheers
When I was taught I was taught to sand down the panel, filler, sand, primer, sand, base coat (Color) then lacker. How comes you only applied lacker. Is it just because you took the lacker off no base coat. Because even on the cars I do we don’t take it down to metal so how comes we have to do both?
Can you clarify what cleaner was in the pump sprayers? I saw you use a grease remover prior to rinsing with a hose, but then later you used pump sprayers after sanding and I don't know what was in there?
Input needed i just purchased a 2024 Volkswagen Jetta it ha major factory paint defects the dealership is having it repainted and then i decide whether to officially buy it it has cloudy almost yellowish spots all over the roof hood and trunk lid . this is on platinum metallic, a dark silver with blue tint paint. it is similar to what happens to a varnished table when somthing hot is put on it, it becomes cloudy . What do you think i should go through with the deal if it looks good or am i just buying a headache i was planning to keep the car for 6-10 years. So i don't trust a repaint.
Awesome work. Could you do a video for paint that's been egged and set into clear coat? I have a vehicle I purchased that the gal I purchased from allied egg to dry and set into the clear. It's caused the clear to " bubble" and peal and also " sun burst" not sure how to word it.
Hello, I found your channel rather late. I have a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban, and I want to paint this vehicle myself. My Suburban has peeling clear coat on the roof, hood, front bumper and right rear quarter panel. I want to go back with the original OE paint. The vehicle doesn’t have any body damage. Can I get away with 400 grit sand paper?
So when you use the 400 and then.the 600 grit , when do you know when to "stop sanding" for tooth steps, so sanding the panel with the 400 grit and also for the 600 grit; so you don't sand through the clear? Next question is In regards to the Air Sander. I noticed you used a DA sander. I have read that other people say you should us a regular Rotary Sander instead. So my question is, which of the 2 should you actually use? Thanks again for another great video!
DA is the weapon of choice. I always see old school techs use rotary sanders on restorations probably because they cut faster, you really have to keep those bad boys moving. During the refinishing process you want to keep an X pattern.
Hey, so I’m working on replacing a bunch of body panels on my 2004 Silverado extended cab with rust free ones. I’m for sure repainting a bed, rear doors, front fenders, and rocker panels. I figure at that point, I might as well do the rest of the cab along with the front doors. I’m spraying the truck with the oem wa815k paint code. Any chance you’d be able to help give a rough idea of how much base coat/clear coat I’m going to need for the project? Also any tips I should know of for when I’m spraying the metallic paint???
Hey great job paint society question can you make a video on painting car doors off the car from step by step example how much paint you need and clear ect this video was good but I’m a rookie kind of confused
I was just hired to prep for paint to learn the basics and to eventually become a painter. These videos are super helpful and amazingly informative for the audience. Thank you Brian for sharing your knowledge onto others!
how's the journey so far?
I have always gone from the bottom to the top. Over the years, lots of people have told me I'm doing it back to front, but it works for me.
The Microfiber Cloth method is GENIUS! Ihave been struggling with dirt in the spraybooth. Going to start using these instead of the ol box towels
Aww this is great. I love your approach. I grew up in a custom/production shop, spraying all sorts of things in a variety of means.. lacquers, urethanes, epoxy, oil/latex.. and even powedercoats.. but.. I'm a botton to top sprayer when spraying a chassis.. and only have painted a few cars, trucks.. 3 tractors (fully restoring them) two caterpillars and a road grader.
I've never seen this level of guidance, and its beautiful, sensible, and I am taking all your steps to fix the full body damage to my 08 Audi a4 cabrio.. about a year ago it was keyed with several other cars when in Seattle.. someone backed into my car, then keyed the entire thing.. I just about had a heart attack. I did some work to it.. 18K in receipts a ton of work on engine/top/suspension/styling, flawless paint bought from a single owner at 60k mi. Three shops were between 21 and 24k in damage. Its been outside a while and got the PNW slime/mold on it.. so I need to detox the paint/trim.. removing the algae, mold/baked on nasty.. then cleanerwax, buff avoiding the heavily scratch/pits as much as I can so as not to pack them with product.. then wetsand the paint, isolate any chipping with the fiber pen, and one panel at a time, feather sand the scratch and then using an artist brush to paint the scratch divots with a very small batch mixed singlestage in a cup, let it cure then block it to get it back to a level surface, sand, then wetsand the entire car like you did (it was beautiful watching you do this part, and good call on avoiding corners doing it by hand!), then shoot the car in singlestage. I have some work to do.. since the car was backed into, pushed into another car.. the grill is on order, the bumpers are useable, bt the mounts need repair. the surface condition on the bumper are beat up due to dings/dents, but also scratches under where you pull into a curb too hard, or a driveway scratching the underside (the car is on coils)..
Do you have any videos that focus on how to repair rash under the bumpers, or cracked plastic, paint cracking on the plastic bumpers? I ordered a plastic repair tool, and seen a couple videos.. hoping I can do it. The plastics have to get fixed first.. am building simple wood stands to hold the front and rear bumpers and make it a production job to do it.. doing this in the next week!
Your videos and style help me find the confidence that I can use your skills and make this look even better so darth vader wants his car back.
A question on sanding. I have a square pad Makita and a ton of grit paper to use today.. see any reasons not to use it? Or should I go get a random orbit (DA) sander.. if going that route.. I do have a 30 gallon Dewalt oil free compressor, but.. kinda like the idea of having a electric orbital.. any pro/cons here with the type of sander?
Ok I gotta say it, always put your compound and polish on your pad not on the car. You will reduce the sling by a significant amount. Im a Detailer and this is like the number one rule to never do lol! But that being said the door looked amazing and it never looked like it was damaged let alone repainted!
Thank you for the tip!!!
@@PaintSociety yes of course!!
Actually that's a bad idea I'm a detailer and painter and I've seen many detailers put the product on the pad instead of the car and it causes more problems sadly. What happens when you put the product directly on the pad is it clogs up the pads much faster so all the cutting material in the pad can't be used to cut the paint and it will take much longer to get the scratches out especially on your step 1. Another problem it causes is the cutting compound overtime digs into the pad from being applied directly onto the pad and the compound sinks in and cuts down the material of the pad causing the pad to breakdown in those areas and needing to be replaced sooner. From experience I used to put it on the pad but it started costing me a lot of time and money so I tried putting it on the car and ever since it's been cutting much faster and smoother.
@@sgondor2768 just curious and no hate, are you priming the pad first, and is it for a Rotary polisher or a dual action? With rotary machines yes you put the compound or polish on the panel and then go. With dual action you have to prime the pad and then just put a few small dots on the pad and off you go. I paint as well and detail but I have learned over time that everyone has different techniques and they all seem to get the same results as everyone else.
If you put the compound on the panel on the car you just lift the PAD as you grab some more not to sling it everywhere
I’ve been in the trade for about 6 months now and I’m learning a lot from your videos!! Keep it up!
Great video Brian. I’ve been watching for over a year. Used many of your videos and techniques to paint my own car in my garage last year and it came out fantastic. I recently have started working at a body shop working towards getting my painter/refinisher ticket, and I have to say that your videos and knowledge are better than anything they teach us at trace school. Your experience is invaluable! Thank you so much for sharing with us and making us all better and smarter.
Thanks so much for being a fan and thanks for the comment !
Another cool video 👍
I can't run a compressor where I currently live, so I use an electric 5" DA with a router speed controller to vary the rpms.
Works great!
Great video, and I like this format (post-audio). I think one can focus better on both tasks when they’re divorced.
I agree. When I need to crank a video out. This is the fastest way.
I painted for over 40 years and can still learn from these videos.
You are a true artist Brian. Great teaching technique.
Good job Brian, I learn so much watching your videos.
Thanks for watching!
Great content and very informative and good step by step audio. You take pride with your work and that’s something that a lot are missing
Dear Brian, thank you so much for your program and shearing your experience with all of us, by watching your clips I have managed to paint 2 cars( so far), I am doing my 3rd car now, a 1972 Mercedes 280 SE, Iyou had a clip lately about a truck with cracks on the roof paint, I have the same problem on my car, I have sand the roof to bear metal but before spraying self etching primer do I need to treat the roof with anything just in case I miss couple points of rust, it looks clear now but I am worried that small particles of rust that I may have missed start coming through after couple of years. Looking forward to hear back from you. Thanks for everything.
I always say in my shop never finish with a rotary as it’s so difficult not to get trails great advice to finish with a D/A also great advice to use a polish rather than a compound as the paint will still be nice and soft the day after painting
uhm whats the difference?
isnt the compound a type of polish?
Great tutorial! I have a challenge for you, if you want. I had a buddy that once used a roller to paint his truck; I told him he was an idiot and it would turn out like shit. I was wrong. It looked pretty good, once finished actually. Keep em coming Brian! 👍
I should’ve added, that he finished the clear using a rattle can.
Hi Brian, I use a downdraught booth so I paint from the bottom up like you because the overspray is taken away from the unpainted sections, if you use a booth that extracts from the end start from the fan end and move away from the fan but in a end extract booth up or down doesn't matter
Jason makes sense. Thanks for the comment !
How do you keep the clear coat from becoming wavey on a vertical surface like a door panel? Almost every paint job I've seen, even from high end shops, that unless the door is removed, the clear coat on the doors comes out looking very wavey when viewed at an angle by comparison with the original factory finish.
I just scuff the edges with a grey pad, or skim with red if your gentle enough, gotta let the product do some of the work! I used to be very excessive like this when I first started. Painter hygiene is important though I keep it simple now and produce same results. Clean gun, clean/degrease & INSPECT panels, wear gloves, blow off your suit, tac between coats!
Brian, what do you do with the Microfiber rags you have used? Do you throw it away as a "consumable", (you work it into the price of the paint work) or do you wash it again to be re-used? What is best practice for you?
As to the question of spraying from bottom to top because you see no advantage or disadvantage.
Hold that thought.
I noticed that you spray the rear panels first depending on which way the booth is sucking the overspray. Wouldn't that be a reason to start spraying at the top, because the overspray would be going downwards and getting on what you just painted? especially in a down draft booth.
Body & paint is not my primary, but I have had my hands in it for more than 50 years and Im still learning!
P.S. Your style is simple and to the point. Its awesome that you share your knowledge and skill set, influencing rookies and professionals all over the world!
Its not hard to choose a competent mentor when the results speak for themselves!
Much respect!
I will say I have become a better painter from watching your show. I have when in a rush used a razor blade to scrape the bump down. Then a light sanding and buffing and it's like it was never there.
Thanks for watching and learning !!
Well you know what say your paint is only as good as your prep, a prep can make and break a painter.nice work👌
I have a 67 Chevy truck, do I need to strip all the old paint before painting with modern-day paint
I need to get you to redo my green candy apple paint job on my truck. Your the best paint very professional and patience.
professional paint job. you are an expert on paint refinish.
do you have to blend the door panel into the other panels and if not then when do you have to blend?
Question, there is no need to blend the color with the panel next to that door? car body shop has to do a similar job for me and he said that has to paint the front door (the one repaired) plus the second row door to blend the color.
Is it like this how it should be done?
Excellent, Great Job as Always!
Great video. Question, I have an old Tacoma that the clear is pretty much gone. Can I simply sand the base and reshoot the base then clear or do I need to spray primer on the sanded base?
So I was just in a accident and the damage is on a coupe it will need a new door and fender and most likely a bumper. Would the body shop do a full paint or just blend it because it’s basically the whole half of the car except the rear of the car but they’ll still have to blend into the back quarter panel and to the a pillar it seems like it would be better for full paint vs just blending?
I started using Tolecut blocks about a year ago love them
Your videos are amazing and very detailed.
I'm a DIY guy with no access to an enclosed garage and building on a budget. Is maaco a better option than painting a car yourself outside?
I'd love to see you tackle an outside budget paint job like a can you do it cheaper than maaco or something might be a cool video and you seem like the type that might like the challenge.
You give out plenty of tips and I appreciate it all man. Keep doing what you do!
yes I did learn a lot definitely for what I came here for which was to find out is it better to start from the bottom on up or to the top on down thank you so much for this video
Is it better to use a DA or random orbital sander for flattening/prepping clear? Which sander is better for sanding down filler/prep work?
Hi Brian! If i need to paint a used door that was black, and my basecoat is blue (it needs white primer). For inside can i use a white basecoat instead white primer/sealer, and than blue basecoat?
Do you have any videos on setting up the gun ? What psi etc?
I wish you lived closer so I could get you to paint my Chevelle 👍 🎨
I have my 2008 Jeep JK - black paint with Arizona pinstripes from 4X4'ing. How hard would it be for a new'b like me to sand the clear coat, with 1000 or 800 and apply a second coat of paint that will only show in direct sunlight, say a cherry or burgundy red? Or do I need go all the way down to metal and start from there? Luckily I do have most of the equipment (compressor, sander/buffer and paint guns). I do lack a clean room, but I can outfit a garage to paint (PVC frame with plastic to enclose the car, would that work?). Thanks.
We called several body shops to have our black 2014 Mustang GT painted Fighter Jet Gray, and they only do insurance work. I hate to have to take it to Maaco, but if I do, I'll sand it down myself. Do I need to sand it down to the metal and what grit sandpaper do I use? The body is perfect and I have an air compressor.
My body shop sprayed a black metallic color on a couple swapped panels that came out a shade darker but a lot more and larger metallic flakes. Will that complicate a respray?
Brian if I’m doing this same type job with rattle cans, do I use the 1k spot blender first like you did? Or use it after I do my 2k clear? TY
Can you recomend an economical spray gun for primer & another one for paint?
Something with minimum orange peel results, just to paint my owncar!
Also, when you spray 2nd coat clear, do you increase air pressure?
I just painted my car in Jaguar approved shop but I am not shure that the paint is the same hardnes and guality as OEM paint because it shows little scratches on the door very fast. So is this nornal or all OEM paints are of better quality thanks in advance cheers
When I was taught I was taught to sand down the panel, filler, sand, primer, sand, base coat (Color) then lacker. How comes you only applied lacker.
Is it just because you took the lacker off no base coat.
Because even on the cars I do we don’t take it down to metal so how comes we have to do both?
Perfection! Outstanding work!
Wonderful job. Please let us know when you are using interface pads
Thanks Im about to do again in along time but thanks for reminding me how to prep lol sanding the cars
Looks like a really great job thenk you for sharing you experience an no how with everyone .thanks Brian. It's really helpful.
Youre a wizard harry
Great Video! Love the prepping content! Thanks for the advice Brian!
Thanks Ricky
First viewer, just happened to be on when your new vid popped!
That’s great because I’m playing around with release times 😀😀
I look forward to both of your new content,great work fellas
Can you clarify what cleaner was in the pump sprayers? I saw you use a grease remover prior to rinsing with a hose, but then later you used pump sprayers after sanding and I don't know what was in there?
Input needed i just purchased a 2024 Volkswagen Jetta it ha major factory paint defects the dealership is having it repainted and then i decide whether to officially buy it it has cloudy almost yellowish spots all over the roof hood and trunk lid . this is on platinum metallic, a dark silver with blue tint paint. it is similar to what happens to a varnished table when somthing hot is put on it, it
becomes cloudy . What do you think i should go through with the deal if it looks good or am i just buying a headache i was planning to keep the car for 6-10 years. So i don't trust a repaint.
Brian, awesome as usual.
Awesome work. Could you do a video for paint that's been egged and set into clear coat?
I have a vehicle I purchased that the gal I purchased from allied egg to dry and set into the clear.
It's caused the clear to " bubble" and peal and also " sun burst" not sure how to word it.
Hello, I found your channel rather late. I have a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban, and I want to paint this vehicle myself. My Suburban has peeling clear coat on the roof, hood, front bumper and right rear quarter panel. I want to go back with the original OE paint. The vehicle doesn’t have any body damage. Can I get away with 400 grit sand paper?
So when you use the 400 and then.the 600 grit , when do you know when to "stop sanding" for tooth steps, so sanding the panel with the 400 grit and also for the 600 grit; so you don't sand through the clear?
Next question is In regards to the Air Sander. I noticed you used a DA sander. I have read that other people say you should us a regular Rotary Sander instead.
So my question is, which of the 2 should you actually use?
Thanks again for another great video!
400 just buzz over it in the flat spots and 600 once there are no glossy spots
DA is the weapon of choice. I always see old school techs use rotary sanders on restorations probably because they cut faster, you really have to keep those bad boys moving. During the refinishing process you want to keep an X pattern.
ALWAYS great content!!! 💪🏽❤️
So the blend additive helps keeps the shine when it dries?
Please do more videos with mud work/ Bondo tips!! A+ content!!
Thanks Brian, informative as ever. Look forward to the next video. Merry Christmas
Superb detailed video. Question - how come you don’t wet sand the whole panel prior to polishing?
Because that removes crucial orange peel to match the factory
@@PaintSociety thank you. I’ve done it at home as it’s so contaminated. Your booth looks clean as a whistle!
yet another great job Brian...well done again
Great work Brian.
Your the best, excellent teacher!
Keep up the good work! 😉
Nice. I looks like that DV1 gun lays that clear really flat with no texture.
30 + years at it old dog picked up tricks thank you!
What do you think about 4 coats of clear? What effect does it have on the paint job?
Another great video Brian best wishes and a merry Christmas from the UK..
Merry Christmas !
Thanks always for the great videos Brian! When are you going to make a vacuum sand video
Wow truly amazing 👏 Profession keep up the great work
I have never done this before. I have a compressor and a hose. Is that what I can use to sand?
is a water based cleaner more effective then traditional prepsol?
They both are needed.
@@PaintSociety in what instances?
@@jeffkeenan5439 it removes oils from
Your hands that prep solvent can’t
It came out hot.keep up the good work.
Excellent work Brian.
👍👍
FINALLY SOMEONE ELSE WHO PHYSICALLY WASHES A CAR BEFORE PAINT!!!!
Hey, so I’m working on replacing a bunch of body panels on my 2004 Silverado extended cab with rust free ones. I’m for sure repainting a bed, rear doors, front fenders, and rocker panels. I figure at that point, I might as well do the rest of the cab along with the front doors. I’m spraying the truck with the oem wa815k paint code. Any chance you’d be able to help give a rough idea of how much base coat/clear coat I’m going to need for the project? Also any tips I should know of for when I’m spraying the metallic paint???
Estimate 8-10 ounces per panel of base.
6-8 of clear.
@@PaintSociety should I consider each side of the bed as 2 panels you think?
Sir great as always, can you please make a video on how to remove trim pieces safely, I often brake stuff or miss a hidden screw
Hello,
How many ounces did you ended up using to paint the panel?
is there a good resource for "how to" remove exterior trim pieces
I love all your videos… keep up the great work 👍
Any plans to show a video of applying multiple extra clear coats to colour sand later on and get a glass finish?
im trying to get a new color. any advice? i would like a more uncommon color
Amazing Brian 👏
The first coat the master applied was radiocer plz ripley
Why you didn’t use primer before paint?
Cause he scuffed the paint
Only primer if you go back to bare metal
hey man! question, why did you red scuff a blend?
Dark color you can
@@jesus930 never knew that. thanks!
You guys wash the car right after paint ? How long ? 24hr?
Where do you get that clear paper bag looking wrap to cover the whole car?
Amazing tips and results!!!
Great demonstration thanks.
You are welcome!
Nice vid and tips always thanks...clean clean clean fa real just nicer and that's just how I am
If the car was sandblasted do I just put primer and paint?
Amazing tips thank you.. Why wipe down the cars door sills the the panel.. 😢
Hey great job paint society question can you make a video on painting car doors off the car from step by step example how much paint you need and clear ect this video was good but I’m a rookie kind of confused
What 3 inch sander are you using?
hello, Can you give me the model and marking of the compressor you use?
I wish if this guy was in dubai , imagine all the country with all its expensive cars and we dont have a single good painter
where do you get the tape holde?