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@@mrc7478 👍 Fond memories no doubt. 😉

@@SPANNERRASH Hi, well it certainly worked for me, if your exhaust is vibrating like mine then I think it could sort it. I like E30's used to have a 325i sport, sold it just before the prices rocketed. Enjoyed the car but it needed some money spending on it. You have a big channel, congrats. 👍

@@TK42138 Yes I believe that could have worked too. I did briefly try wrapping some lead around the silencer to change the weight but it wasn't enough of a change frequency change. You can get exhaust resonators which interfere with the sound waves but I'm not sure if that would do the same thing. With an exposed exhaust system aesthetics play a part too. Nice to hear you have thoughts like this at 3.30am in the morning too! 😆 Ah the staring into the abyss 😆👍

Hi and thanks for the message. The only way to deal with rust in pores is to remove it. This means media blasting or removal with acid products. I use a Gel rust remover demonstrated in this video th-cam.com/video/XZJ7tyrT3bs/w-d-xo.html or blasting until the rust doesn't return. th-cam.com/video/Fvbm4n8SoYE/w-d-xo.html There isn't a paint in the world that can hold back rust, it has to be removed. Epoxy primers are good as are zinc primers but they only prolong the inevitable.

@@The_Artist_Formerly_Known_as thank you 😊

@@user-ge8dv1ik9c thank you 😊

@@6wheels646 Really appreciate that comment, the video is doing poor at the moment so needed that. Cheers 🙂

@@bensclassicbodywork so a friend of mine has a YT channel, also working on his project, and he was asking for some feedback on his videos. My response? Screw what people think. As long as YOU are having a good time making the videos, then you will keep enjoying it, and the people that enjoy the content will be here with you. As soon as you start making the videos in some sort of specific way to appease the masses, you’re no longer doing it for you. The video part of your job I can only assume is a hobby, so enjoy the hobby!

@@bensclassicbodyworkI’ve just had a quick look again over all of your video titles. Most of them include “rust”, “repair”, “classic”, “bodywork”, “welding”, “restoration”. All things that get picked up and recommended by TH-cam to people with those sorts of interests…. Guess what this doesn’t include! It’s not that it wasn’t a good video, you just didn’t please the robot gods of popular buzz words.

@@6wheels646 Thanks very much for the kind feedback and you're absolutely right it should all be about making the videos you want to make and the numbers don't matter. I think TH-cam are good at making you take notice with how popular your video is, all the analytics you could possibly imagine and I'm a bit obsessed with watching that stuff. When a video does worse than you are used to I find it hard to not think negatively about it but you are absolutely right I shouldn't think that way. I think some People who post on TH-cam have achieved this state of mind, I need to work on it so that I'm not bothered either, it's the only way you can keep making videos long term. I also agree on the titles and this one being different, the oil burning stove did really bad for the first few days, but it went on to do very well indeed. The excitement of a video doing that well is quite addictive, trying to recreate that excitement is perhaps a recipe for disappointment. Thanks again Ben

@@alastairwatson3201 👍

😂😂👌👌

It certainly could be the reason, I'll have to look more closely at car exhausts and see If I can spot other examples then.👍👍

@@adelabdel-azim5261 I'm pretty confident it would do yes, same with heating oil.

@@jameshamm7167 Me too, always nice to see it in top coat, I'm still finishing off the filler work but it's not far off now. I will leave the car for a month or two in high build primer to let the paint shrink, then it's going to be final sanded and sprayed, I'm not spraying it myself as my facility's aren't up to scratch for top coats. I need to get the underneath in Upol raptor and get it back on its wheels soon. The axles are all powder coated and ready for assembly.

@@liambyrne591 The love of the car or you keep it long enough so that it's value increases with time.

They certainly did and do have that reputation. I do think the majority of it is well built though, sills are very strong . Unlike a Morris minor convertible where you jack up the car and the doors open by themselves. 😆

Hi, How have I confused working speed with maximum disc speed ? The working speed will be slower making the situation even worse.

Thanks for the feedback 👍

yes, it is a terrible part, next time I will be making my own. Don't think there is an alternative. I don't understand how company's can sell such bad parts

😁👍

Thank you very much for the kind comment. It's really appreciated 😊

Pleasure 👍

Thanks Peter 👍👍

Yes, it was mainly spot welds but there were two small beads of weld on the top at either end of the rail. I had to use a 9" disc cutter to reach the small beads of weld. They are only about 1/2" long but looked factory to me.

Totally agree, I did a fair bit of work on a Mk1 Lotus Cortina, Only drove it out the shed but I could tell I liked the feel of it from just that.

Yes, I don't understand what the appeal would be with an electric motor conversion but company's are busy changing classics to electric. Big mistake if you ask me.

Hi, I didn't film the build but I will do a video all about it if that helps.

@@bensclassicbodywork that would be great. Or if you can share sketches would be great too. I like that you made it modular, to use the frame for shrinking and stretching. I was thinking that too, maybe also add a planishing hammer module. Would love to see your designs. Thanks. Ps. I admire the restoration quality. I have 3 rusty alfas to restore myself...

@@searover83 Unfortunately I didn't keep any sketches happy to measure anything in particular that you need. I've recently made the transition from shrinker stretcher to english wheel quicker by adding T section sliders and friction thumb locks. A planishing hammer option is a great idea, that would be a pretty simple addition providing there is space. Good chance there is. Happy to email some photos/ details as a video might take me some time to make. btdixey@hotmail.com I can tell you I used 11mm thick steel for the frame cnc plasma cut to shape. The screw thread for the english wheel is 7/8" unf.

I have watched a couple videos, looks good. Will message with anything that springs to mind. 👍👍

Nothing wrong with that if it worked for you 👍. As you know the finer the grit the less effective it is at cutting, 80 and 120 are pretty course and effective at shaping. Likewise we don't want deep scratches for the paint to shrink into later when it comes to finishing.

Totally agree, I tried the fill and block right across the doors but don't think I'll do that again. Like you say it's weak on the edge, ok if you lead that area but not polyester filler. All it takes is someone shutting the door with the seatbelt in the shut and it will leave a large chip. Like you say fine for a show car but not for a car that's going to be used a lot. Slight curve towards the door gaps looks original to me. Defends what you like the look of I suppose. I watched chip foose on tv and Boyd coddington. I've seen Charlie from American hot rod using lead around the door gaps. It's a lot of work to do.

I plan to do a video on it, I think that will be the best way to show how I've done it. Would that be of help, or do you need dimensions ?

@@bensclassicbodywork yes please!!! All of the above!;)

😂 thanks

👍

pleasure 👍

👍 I'm sure there are similarities, I avoid work on houses like the plague so cant really compare that. I'll have to learn at some stage.

That's correct, in this case removing a shim could have helped the situation slightly except there weren't any shims behind the hinges to remove. No adjustment was possible.

@@bensclassicbodywork I didn't say anything about shims on the door hinges. Read again and think about the front of the frame being lower than it should be.

@@tires2burn oh ok, are you talking about adjusting the height of the A pillar ? This is a Monocoque chassis, no shims to adjust anything like you might have on a vehicle with a separate chassis.

@@bensclassicbodywork Your right. I was thinking frame.

@@tires2burn It would be the right decision to move the 'A' pillar upwards and shim the top door hinge to bring the door down at the back. That would be the optimum way of fixing the car but as you might well know a very large amount of work. I haven't done much with separate chassis vehicles, most I have are monocoque. I did do a morris minor convertible where I had to move the 'A' pillar up, that was a big job and I didn't get it where I wanted it. Nightmare in the end.

In the uk, FH brundle sell full zintec sheets at the best price.

@@bensclassicbodywork thank you, any recomendation on how to protect the new sills after ?, undercoat, stone chip?, im a noob but can weld a little, thank you

@@leeyo5494 etch or epoxy primer, then upol stone chip and 2k top coat. Make sure the inside is cavity waxed, that's what will make it last.

@@bensclassicbodywork ok thanks

Thanks 😊

True. 😉

😆👍 yeah, send it over.

Thanks, I like your articulated 4x4. That took some work and designing. 👍