Hey Ben, I think your content is amazing, informative and funny. I really enjoy it. I posted a link to your channel on the AlfaBB bulletin board. I hope you get some guys over there and hopefully you can interact with the group. It’s a big group of Alfa focused guys, I know they will be very impressed with your work. More of us viewers should spread the word so we get more great content.
@@Geneb2470 Just found your post on the forum, very kind of you and the subscribers and views have gone up as a result. The forum looks massive, great resource of Information. Thanks again Ben
Salut Ben, Si seulement les véhicules qui sortent d'usine pouvaient être traités de cette façon... Pas de doutes cette Alfa Romeo sera bien mieux finie qu'elle ne le fut par le constructeur. Bravissimo!
Hi and thanks, in the 70s the factory finished cars weren't very well protected, a lot of people blamed the quality of the steel but I think the protection was mainly to blame. My parents triumph stag had a bare metal respray at 5 years old, going rusty that soon from new. Things have changed a lot since then.
Thank you, applying sealant is the most important thing, doesn't have to be neat. Preventing water getting between the joint is by far the priority. You did good 👍
The car will be better than factory for sure, Ben. A lot of work, rewards when complete. The jigsaw building of the body from alfa is complicated in to replace a part you need to cut other parts out,but they are a buietiful car. Your work is stunning great videos.
Thanks so much for the kind comment, completely agree the way the car is built makes it's more difficult than a lot of other cars. Getting the floors in was a right puzzle, as was the jacking points. As you say a beautiful car though.
Now i know why my paint didn't come out as well. I don't use a helicopter to commute to my shed. I assumed a hovercraft would be enough. Thanks for the tip 👍
Enjoyable video Ben. I don't think you'll have any problems with the Raptor. There are plenty of professionals out there that swear by it so I think it is probably pretty good. Gravitex is the other product of choice for many, I've yet to try either.
Thanks for that Bob, I don't recall seeing anyone online doing a stonechip test with these products, have you seen anything like that ? I think you could do it quite simply by dropping small stones into a segmented flywheel, that will accelerate the stones to the same velocity for a fair comparative test. One thing I do like about the raptor is that it's the same colour all the way through, so a minor stone chip wouldn't necessarily be noticeable. Adhesion is the second thing I'm interested in and that could be tested by flexing the sample. Not particularly interested in the rust prevention side of things because that's all about the preparation in my opinion.
@@bensclassicbodywork No, can't say I have. That would be a good one for somebody to take on. It's always a balance with the underbody protection isn't it. Too hard versus too soft versus adhesion. Am I correct in thinking that Raptor was developed as a truck bed-liner? If so, that should tick a few boxes.
@@bobfrankish8883 yes that's correct, you can add abrasives to the mix to increase the slip resistance. There is no rubber used in Raptor though, it's a polyurethane paint so it's resistance to stone chips I would imagine isn't as good as the factory Underseal used on new vehicles. I haven't researched what factory's are using actually, I should do. I did try sprayable sealant once, the name was Kent. Looked good but I wasn't impressed with its durability. Also the gun used could not be taken apart or cleaned, you had to be using the stuff all the time and keep the gun full of sealant. It was slow to harden and even after a few months it was still weak, you could almost remove it with your finger nail, it did look factory but was no good otherwise.
Very much enjoying your videos... would love to know more about what is in your de-rusting tank and what you use in that spray bottle to stop the parts flash rusting just after?
Thanks, the immersion rust remover is deox C mixed 19 parts to 1 with water. The spray is atom mac, both products are from a uk company called Bilt Hamber.
So good with genius humour
Hey Ben, I think your content is amazing, informative and funny. I really enjoy it. I posted a link to your channel on the AlfaBB bulletin board. I hope you get some guys over there and hopefully you can interact with the group. It’s a big group of Alfa focused guys, I know they will be very impressed with your work. More of us viewers should spread the word so we get more great content.
@@Geneb2470 wow, thanks so much, what a lovely comment and I really appreciate you sharing a link, I will definitely have a look at the forum. 😊👍
@@Geneb2470 Just found your post on the forum, very kind of you and the subscribers and views have gone up as a result. The forum looks massive, great resource of Information. Thanks again Ben
Great video as always Ben, especially enjoy the funny bits.
Appreciate that, thank you 😊
Excellent video, the understated humour works very well.
Thanks very much 😊
Good and informative video.. very neat.
Your mate from the pub looks like a very nice bloke :) i laughed hard to that one.......
😆👍 thanks very much for feedback, I like it when I can give somebody a laugh. Cheers
Salut Ben,
Si seulement les véhicules qui sortent d'usine pouvaient être traités de cette façon...
Pas de doutes cette Alfa Romeo sera bien mieux finie qu'elle ne le fut par le constructeur. Bravissimo!
Hi and thanks, in the 70s the factory finished cars weren't very well protected, a lot of people blamed the quality of the steel but I think the protection was mainly to blame. My parents triumph stag had a bare metal respray at 5 years old, going rusty that soon from new. Things have changed a lot since then.
Wish I could timelapse my life whilst working on my god forsaken bathroom. Enjoyable video as always, thanks 👌
I bet, I really dislike household diy stuff like that, I complained about sanding filler but I would actually much rather do that than a bathroom. 😬
Turned out really well congratulations 👌
Thanks, I'm pleased. 😊
Great job Ben! Interesting technique for the seam sealing of the fender to inner fender, looks a fair bit better than what I managed...
Thank you, applying sealant is the most important thing, doesn't have to be neat. Preventing water getting between the joint is by far the priority. You did good 👍
The car will be better than factory for sure, Ben.
A lot of work, rewards when complete.
The jigsaw building of the body from alfa is complicated in to replace a part you need to cut other parts out,but they are a buietiful car.
Your work is stunning great videos.
Thanks so much for the kind comment, completely agree the way the car is built makes it's more difficult than a lot of other cars. Getting the floors in was a right puzzle, as was the jacking points. As you say a beautiful car though.
Hilarious. Thanks for more excellent content and some very useful tips. Cheers!
@@davidcroft659 Thanks very much 😊
Nice work 👌
Thanks 👍
Looking good 👍
Thank you 😊
Now i know why my paint didn't come out as well. I don't use a helicopter to commute to my shed. I assumed a hovercraft would be enough. Thanks for the tip 👍
😆👍 it's all about how you arrive to the Workshop, a little known fact. 😄
What hover craft have you got ?
Enjoyable video Ben. I don't think you'll have any problems with the Raptor. There are plenty of professionals out there that swear by it so I think it is probably pretty good. Gravitex is the other product of choice for many, I've yet to try either.
Thanks for that Bob, I don't recall seeing anyone online doing a stonechip test with these products, have you seen anything like that ?
I think you could do it quite simply by dropping small stones into a segmented flywheel, that will accelerate the stones to the same velocity for a fair comparative test.
One thing I do like about the raptor is that it's the same colour all the way through, so a minor stone chip wouldn't necessarily be noticeable.
Adhesion is the second thing I'm interested in and that could be tested by flexing the sample.
Not particularly interested in the rust prevention side of things because that's all about the preparation in my opinion.
@@bensclassicbodywork No, can't say I have. That would be a good one for somebody to take on. It's always a balance with the underbody protection isn't it. Too hard versus too soft versus adhesion. Am I correct in thinking that Raptor was developed as a truck bed-liner? If so, that should tick a few boxes.
@@bobfrankish8883 yes that's correct, you can add abrasives to the mix to increase the slip resistance. There is no rubber used in Raptor though, it's a polyurethane paint so it's resistance to stone chips I would imagine isn't as good as the factory Underseal used on new vehicles. I haven't researched what factory's are using actually, I should do.
I did try sprayable sealant once, the name was Kent. Looked good but I wasn't impressed with its durability. Also the gun used could not be taken apart or cleaned, you had to be using the stuff all the time and keep the gun full of sealant. It was slow to harden and even after a few months it was still weak, you could almost remove it with your finger nail, it did look factory but was no good otherwise.
Very much enjoying your videos... would love to know more about what is in your de-rusting tank and what you use in that spray bottle to stop the parts flash rusting just after?
Thanks, the immersion rust remover is deox C mixed 19 parts to 1 with water. The spray is atom mac, both products are from a uk company called Bilt Hamber.
I have a 1975 Spider that I will be restoring.
What state is it in?