Super helpful... I replaced all the capacitors on my ecu first and had the same no fuel pump priming/solid cel. Went and hit it with a heat gun and it primed and started. Just ordered that Ic17 chip and hoping that is the issue.
@@haggardsoul1Hi, did you manage to solve the problem? I have the same symptoms, it takes a long time to arm the bomb, and when it does it's only when it wants to.
You may have saved my marriage. I tried for WEEKS to solve this problem on my wife's Del Sol. Even had it towed to a Honda specialty shop. Tried this heat gun trick and it fired right up. I can't thank you enough for helping me diagnose this intermittent problem.
So happy this worked for you! Just send the ECU to someone like Jason Waters Tuning and have it rebuilt with new parts and it should be good for many more years
I know this post is 2 years old but thank the good Lord for this. I have been going nuts trying to figure out what was going in with my 93 del sol. This was the problem 100%. Thank you!
Have a 1997 Honda civicHX (different lol ) got it for 300 crank no start with 264k miles little old lady just got to old To drive it and sold it to me ! same issues went to junkyard after replacing the fuel pump tune up oil change so I started googling no prime from the fuel pump instead of just crank no start and I came across 3 videos pointing the ecu! Got it two weeks ago and after watching your video and 3 others I ended up a junkyard got one from a sedan 1.6 5 speed! I said If I plug it up then it primes we got ourselves a car ! THAT THING PRIMED UP AND STARTED ! Thanks so much and it’s exempt antique tag here I come lol
It really works all I did was change out the ecu cause I had a extra one laying around and plugged it and it got fuel and it started this guy is awesome thanks for ur help Man
If I could kiss you I would. Could not figure out why my car wouldn't start had all the same issues. My car sat in the garage for almost a year. I came across your video and I tried it and it worked. Bought a used computer from eBay and it's been running flawlessly. Thank you
Thanks man, Had a no start issue with my 93 Integra. Solid CEL no fuel pump prime. Changed the main relay but issue persisted. Tried this out and it started right up. Thanks!
It worked on my civic esi.I have to replaced five capacitors coz it visibly leaked and injector pulse was there after replacing the capacitors especially the 220 microfarad.After sometime ,the positive supplying the fuel pump failed.Not sure wether my main relay failed.Tapped a positive line from the ignition switch line and connected to the main relay bypassing it and fuel pump worked but check engine light is there to stay.Im using the car and waiting for a new main relay.IC 17 is really controlling the fuel pump and injector pulse.Thanks Barry!!!
thanks for the info. bro. it fixed my 93 civic...its still going strong with 410,350 miles on it ..lol , original California car, been in Michigan since 2006.
man oh man !!! I mean YEARS !!! wondering what the exact issue was with my 95 civic. I tied it more to humidity then cold though. Sunny cold low humidity day will start right up, as the humidity goes up, regardless of temp, so too does the wait for the check engine light to go out could be 5,10,20 minutes. Even guys who specialize in Honda's seemed clueless.
Mine just started doing this after sitting in the rain and it’s Arizona so it rarely rains, eventually I get it to prime but I’m guessing a new ECU would fix this??? Anyone?
@@joegarfias8993 Hey Joe, I had taken the panel off the pass. side floorboard, to get to the ECU. I started driving around without the panel on and for whatever reason ( simply more air flow ??) I've not had an issue since. It can be storming and it starts right up. I was dumbfounded. It's been 2 years and no problem >
Thanx man cause I had a spare ecu in the house and as soon as I plugged it in the fuel pump worked then a few months later same problem but like in you video is starting to get cold here where I am and that ecu is starting to act up so it makes sense the one I had in the house was already warm
Something told me it’s had to do with something when it gets to cold… I just finished a b20 swap in my wago and used a p28 and all summer it was good but as it’s gotten colder I’ve found this happening more and more… dude… thank you for this video..🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
My 95 del sol does this, sometimes it be 30 seconds or up to five minutes, I have multiple relays ive tried and they all working, checked wiring and everything between, ecu was my last resort, ima pull my ecu outta my other del sol and see if that helps thanks for video man
So I can just put a new IC17 chip in and reprogram it and it will be fine? Or do I have to buy a whole new ECU? I have this problem with mine and your video helped a lot
@@barryc1635 thank you, so once you replace it you never had a problem with it? And how did you figure it out? The whole time I thought it was my fuel pump and then I found this video and it really helped
Riley Miller I just kept researching and did a lot of testing on wiring and voltage outputs, between that and a few calls I was able to narrow down the issue. No issues since
@@barryc1635 so I just went to the shop to see what they would say about it and the mechanic said it’s not removable and I’ll have to buy a new ecu, how did you get your chip out? Was yours removable? Should I just try a different shop?
I’ve got an issue with my 95 civic b18 swap where it wont prime the fuel pump and relay click with the b18 ecu, but the pump will prime, relay will click and car will start with the p06 that was in the car when i bought it. No cel with the p75, i tried heating it up, as well as letting it sit for like 15 minutes and still nothing, do you have any idea what it could be?
@@barryc1635 Thats my main issue is i dont know anybody with a b series or any other honda i can test my ecu on or use an ecu from, currently looking for somebody willing to let me use their car as a test subject
I know this is a older one of your videos , But Hopefully you check this , Maybe you can give me a idea , Ok so my civic isnt getting fuel from pump to rail , I should start off by saying I been building the car from barely a shell to a complete car as well as a fully built motor , Now.2 yrs ago it started everytime timing was just off ...Fixed that an I ended up landing a long hour career so it sat untouched the past two years . Well recently have the time now to finish small odds an ends .. Buddy thru a base map on my ecu, Well tries to start up but just wont , I got spark , timing but no pressure on fpr an no fuel to fuel rail BUT when turning key to on pos the pump primes ..I cant figure out wth it could be ...when spraying starter fluid in throttle starts for half a second an then tries to crank again but no go , Iv gotten ppl sayn fuel pump but it primes , fpr , dizzy , timing . or the fuel has gelled up in the tank an lines an they are clogged . . Any help would be very much appreciated as years of building an tons or labor an money went into this build an all I wana do is drive the thing lol... Ps sorry for such a long questiom
I’ve seen cars that sat for a while have bad fuel filters, that would be the first thing I would replace. Are you hearing your fuel pump prime? If so the filter most likely could be the problem. You can also pinch off the return fuel line and see if you get fuel pressure, I’ve seen fuel regulators fail as well
I think I’m in the same position you were, I’ve ensured that the issue isn’t the relay, or the pump itself, is there anything else I should check before trying this?
If you are comfortable using a Haynes manual and a volt meter you can verify where the voltage stops or just isn’t there.... the output that controls the fuel pump rest at 12 volts if my memory serves correct
this seems to match almost identically the issues my accord is experiencing. two questions tho. 1)did you ever experience any random stalls 2)do you remember any occasion. of finding your battery low without obvious cause? iv lived with the slow fuel prime problem a long while. few weeks back battery was low for no obvious reason. only 2 small trips after that it stalls out while warming up and then began to resist starting progressively more until it justvdidnt even sound like it was close, just crank crank crank. also when releasing the key from start position it sometimes would sound like the relays clicked again and occasionaly the tach would jump turning the key back to acc. also the car would make a grumble like it was trying to turn over even though wasnt touching the key. sorry for such a big amount of text to read but would appreciate any input you may have as this is the closest description of my own problems iv found despite weeks of forum searching and my own diagnostic with the service manual.
I did have it stall, but only after I first started up every once in a while. Since I replaced IC17 I have not had a problem since. I don’t recall having battery issues. It does sound like a ECU issue though. I sent my ECU off and had it refreshed to help cure future issues as well.
so my fuel pump primes. it turns over for a bit, then cranks up, starts, then after ab 2 seconds, it shuts off, then if i keep cranking it itll turn back on then shut off and keeps going. ive been fighting for a long time, idk what to do and i need help. it idled like it had a 5.0 cam in it
Thank you for your quick response. I have a bit of an issue... i can't find the main micro relay for my Honda jazz 2006 in my area. What do you remember i use instead ? Thnx
I replaced the fuel pump and the main relay and I still don’t have any fuel pressure. It’s summer right now and currently 85 degrees and humid as hell outside. I haven’t used a heat gun yet but do you think it would work in my case
Spay a little starter fluid into the intake and see if it try’s crank. If it does that means the main relay and the rest of that wiring is probably ok and the problem would more than likely be the IC17 issue
@@barryc1635 thank you for the fast reply. I’m going to try that tomorrow it’s getting late over here but if I does start up from the starter fluid I should try replacing that fuse or relay that is on the ecu?
@@mickeyyy7571 if it does start that means the rest of the ignition system is working, the same fuse normally controls everything related to the relay and injectors. IC17 inside the ECU only controls the fuel pump
Can I just replace the computer I’m having the same issue on a 92 eg that I bought . I replaced the fuel pump today and I’m still having this issue the fuel pump comes on when it wants too ???
@@Mario-et3tp very possible, if you leave the key on foe a while it might heat up the ECU enough to start, that’s how I started to figure things out and narrowed things down
Let me ask you couple of questions. How do I know which model my car is? Like if it is EG things like that. I have a 1995 civic coupe ex 1.6 manual transmission. Now couple of weeks ago it started with starting issues. I first thought it was the starter, I replaced it and it started well for a day, went down again. I replaced the fuel filter, and fired up, then die again. So my next step was replacing the pump, which solved the problem for a day and it went back to not starting again. Now will the heating up thing help solve the problem? Or should I get a new ECU?? Thank you for your help.
@@barryc1635 Hi Barry, thank you for the tips. Here’s my situation I heated up the ecu and my car started right away. It was working fine yesterday since it was hot, but after seated all night this morning it didn’t start again. The engine light doesn’t go off like it used when you say the pump primes. What should I do? Resold the ic37 or get a new ecu? What’s easiest? And if I had to buy that little black thing the 37, where do I get it and what is it called? Thank you very much again for your time and reply.
@@ricardosom7766 I would recommend contacting JasonWatersTuning to get that ECU completely serviced. It will probably cost 150-250 I’m guessing, but it will get it back to like new condition. The Main Relay is the other part in the driver kick panel about the hood release
@@barryc1635 hi Barry, just wanted to thank you for the help and advice with my car issue. I contacted waters he was going to charge me $150 to repair the ecu. Then I found out I could buy the capacitor kit which I did. Y solder 5 news one un my car is working just perfect. Thank you again, god bless.
Hello, I have same problem, sometimes I could start 30x times, and sometimes 30x no start when I turn key on, and now when I turn key on engine control still light, but fuel pump no pressure, so where is the problem, is it in ecu and what is ic 17?
Hii i have the same problem. I've changed IC17 it worked good the first day. But the other morning i still have the same old problem. Do you know what the problem can be?
Anyone have this issue in a DA I’m having a hell of a time, replaced the whole fuel system besides the lines, new fresh b20b swap, obd1 distributor obd2 injectors can’t figure out what’s going on
@@barryc1635 so I’ve checked spark fuel and replaced the main relay today and now it’s clicking 4times compared to the old one which only clicked 3 (no click on crank) and it’s still doing the same symptom, didn’t help that I have the dash and cluster out rn but I’m gonna spend some time tomorrow when I get off the clock and voltage check all the circuts.
Bro, I’m having this god damn issue for a Year now. The Car turns on without any problem for like 2 months, and then for no reason the issue returns. Yesturday i got this issue again, it was damn hot here, 30°C+
Borrow a ECU and see if it will prime your car, You don’t even have to crank it ( i case you have a custom tune). But if it primes fine with another ECU you probably have this issue
Your car is OBD2, the ECU in mine is OBD1And is different than yours. I’ve unfortunately not had to ever trouble shoot the issue your having and won’t be able to help
@@barryc1635 yeah idk what it is, this is the 2nd ecu I’ve purchased and still have no prime ti the fuel pump and ecu stays on. Changed the fuel pump main relay checked all fuses and now idk where to begin car cranks but doesn’t start I know that I should hear the fuel pump prime and ecu used to shut off on accessories key turn. Man so frustrating
Unfortunately as soon as I shut the car off I had to reheat the ECU, but atleast the battery got recharged and I can move it around. Getting a new ecu soon I hope. They're gettin rare to find
I had Eric Jarvis do alot of my work.. he reccomends I just get a new ecu. Mine has already been fixed once before. So most likely it wont last long. I can just put my chip in the new ecu and be done.
I think this is the best dam vid on u tube
Not sure about the best video lol but I appreciate that kind comments! Hope it was helpful
@@barryc1635 I am literally having the same issue right now. I am going to test the heat gun on the computer. Hopefully it works.
@@DREPR0787 hopefully this gets you in the right direction
Super helpful... I replaced all the capacitors on my ecu first and had the same no fuel pump priming/solid cel. Went and hit it with a heat gun and it primed and started. Just ordered that Ic17 chip and hoping that is the issue.
@@haggardsoul1Hi, did you manage to solve the problem? I have the same symptoms, it takes a long time to arm the bomb, and when it does it's only when it wants to.
You may have saved my marriage. I tried for WEEKS to solve this problem on my wife's Del Sol. Even had it towed to a Honda specialty shop. Tried this heat gun trick and it fired right up. I can't thank you enough for helping me diagnose this intermittent problem.
So happy this worked for you! Just send the ECU to someone like Jason Waters Tuning and have it rebuilt with new parts and it should be good for many more years
I know this post is 2 years old but thank the good Lord for this. I have been going nuts trying to figure out what was going in with my 93 del sol. This was the problem 100%. Thank you!
Truly glad it helped . I know how difficult it was for me to diagnose this issue.
Great way to test if it’s an ECU issue without using another ECU. Thanks for sharing.
Have a 1997 Honda civicHX (different lol ) got it for 300 crank no start with 264k miles little old lady just got to old
To drive it and sold it to me ! same issues went to junkyard after replacing the fuel pump tune up oil change so I started googling no prime from the fuel pump instead of just crank no start and I came across 3 videos pointing the ecu! Got it two weeks ago and after watching your video and 3 others I ended up a junkyard got one from a sedan 1.6 5 speed! I said If I plug it up then it primes we got ourselves a car ! THAT THING PRIMED UP AND STARTED ! Thanks so much and it’s exempt antique tag here I come lol
It really works all I did was change out the ecu cause I had a extra one laying around and plugged it and it got fuel and it started this guy is awesome thanks for ur help Man
When you buy a new ECU, do you need to program it or just plug it in?
If I could kiss you I would.
Could not figure out why my car wouldn't start had all the same issues.
My car sat in the garage for almost a year.
I came across your video and I tried it and it worked.
Bought a used computer from eBay and it's been running flawlessly.
Thank you
Glad it was able to he;p your situation!
Great video, without talking to much, explaining everything fast and easy, help me a lot 🤘🏼👍🏼
Thank you for the reply and kinda words
What ecu is that? Or what ecu do you use for a d16z6 vtec manual?
@@danielsalazar828 this was just a OEM ecu with a chip added
Thanks man, Had a no start issue with my 93 Integra. Solid CEL no fuel pump prime. Changed the main relay but issue persisted. Tried this out and it started right up. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much this is the exact problem my car has been having, I threw on some heat and it turned right on! Thanks again keep up the good work.
Just saved me countless trips to the auto parts store, thank you
Insane. At first I was sketched out but my car fired right up thank you !! Under rated video literally. Happy new year.
Awesome! That’s why I made this video, I know how hard it was to trace down lol
are you still on line ? i really need help with my 1992 civic hatch back as well, doing the exact same thing bro and nothing is working😔
It worked on my civic esi.I have to replaced five capacitors coz it visibly leaked and injector pulse was there after replacing the capacitors especially the 220 microfarad.After sometime ,the positive supplying the fuel pump failed.Not sure wether my main relay failed.Tapped a positive line from the ignition switch line and connected to the main relay bypassing it and fuel pump worked but check engine light is there to stay.Im using the car and waiting for a new main relay.IC 17 is really controlling the fuel pump and injector pulse.Thanks Barry!!!
i’m live in Malaysia , this problem seems like my 95 eg with zc sohc engine swap .. i gonna try this tomorrow thankyou so much friend 👍
thanks for the info. bro. it fixed my 93 civic...its still going strong with 410,350 miles on it ..lol , original California car, been in Michigan since 2006.
Happy to hear it helped find your problem
man oh man !!! I mean YEARS !!! wondering what the exact issue was with my 95 civic. I tied it more to humidity then cold though. Sunny cold low humidity day will start right up, as the humidity goes up, regardless of temp, so too does the wait for the check engine light to go out could be 5,10,20 minutes. Even guys who specialize in Honda's seemed clueless.
Mine just started doing this after sitting in the rain and it’s Arizona so it rarely rains, eventually I get it to prime but I’m guessing a new ECU would fix this??? Anyone?
@@dariusduvall4170 that's where I'm at on this, down to an issue with the ECU.
Where can I order the ic17 part?
@@joegarfias8993 Hey Joe, I had taken the panel off the pass. side floorboard, to get to the ECU. I started driving around without the panel on and for whatever reason ( simply more air flow ??) I've not had an issue since. It can be storming and it starts right up.
I was dumbfounded. It's been 2 years and no problem >
Thanx man cause I had a spare ecu in the house and as soon as I plugged it in the fuel pump worked then a few months later same problem but like in you video is starting to get cold here where I am and that ecu is starting to act up so it makes sense the one I had in the house was already warm
Something told me it’s had to do with something when it gets to cold… I just finished a b20 swap in my wago and used a p28 and all summer it was good but as it’s gotten colder I’ve found this happening more and more… dude… thank you for this video..🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Glad it helped. I’ve been there. Lol
Good info. This is another possibility I’ll have to look into. Already put in a s300 so won’t have a problem fixing it if I have to.
My 95 del sol does this, sometimes it be 30 seconds or up to five minutes, I have multiple relays ive tried and they all working, checked wiring and everything between, ecu was my last resort, ima pull my ecu outta my other del sol and see if that helps thanks for video man
Update?
So far swapping my ecu seemed to work
I tried this on my b18 swapped civic and worked. Thank you for uploading
Your welcome
thanks a lot for this. already changed my fuel pump and main relay and still had the same
problem. Do i have to resolder IC17?
I would recommend someone like Jason Water Tuning to install this part. Not a easy install without having professional solder equipment
So I can just put a new IC17 chip in and reprogram it and it will be fine? Or do I have to buy a whole new ECU? I have this problem with mine and your video helped a lot
The IC 17 does not need programming, just proper installation . I sent mine to somebody to have put in.
@@barryc1635 thank you, so once you replace it you never had a problem with it? And how did you figure it out? The whole time I thought it was my fuel pump and then I found this video and it really helped
Riley Miller I just kept researching and did a lot of testing on wiring and voltage outputs, between that and a few calls I was able to narrow down the issue. No issues since
@@barryc1635 so I just went to the shop to see what they would say about it and the mechanic said it’s not removable and I’ll have to buy a new ecu, how did you get your chip out? Was yours removable? Should I just try a different shop?
Riley Miller let me look up the info on where I sent mine. Might be tonight
This video saved my life.
I’m glad it helped
I tried everything....hope this works!!!
Hope all is well with you car Sir👌🏾
I’ve got an issue with my 95 civic b18 swap where it wont prime the fuel pump and relay click with the b18 ecu, but the pump will prime, relay will click and car will start with the p06 that was in the car when i bought it. No cel with the p75, i tried heating it up, as well as letting it sit for like 15 minutes and still nothing, do you have any idea what it could be?
Sounds like the ECU is having an issue like what this video is about. See if you can barrow a known good ECU for another test from a B series
@@barryc1635 Thats my main issue is i dont know anybody with a b series or any other honda i can test my ecu on or use an ecu from, currently looking for somebody willing to let me use their car as a test subject
Really appreciate your video. Warmed up the ecu and good to go!
Where can I find the ic 17 part in having the same issue
Jasen Waters Tuning is where I have recommended
great video had the same problem with my 93 civic
I know this is a older one of your videos , But Hopefully you check this , Maybe you can give me a idea , Ok so my civic isnt getting fuel from pump to rail , I should start off by saying I been building the car from barely a shell to a complete car as well as a fully built motor , Now.2 yrs ago it started everytime timing was just off ...Fixed that an I ended up landing a long hour career so it sat untouched the past two years . Well recently have the time now to finish small odds an ends .. Buddy thru a base map on my ecu, Well tries to start up but just wont , I got spark , timing but no pressure on fpr an no fuel to fuel rail BUT when turning key to on pos the pump primes ..I cant figure out wth it could be ...when spraying starter fluid in throttle starts for half a second an then tries to crank again but no go , Iv gotten ppl sayn fuel pump but it primes , fpr , dizzy , timing . or the fuel has gelled up in the tank an lines an they are clogged . . Any help would be very much appreciated as years of building an tons or labor an money went into this build an all I wana do is drive the thing lol...
Ps sorry for such a long questiom
I’ve seen cars that sat for a while have bad fuel filters, that would be the first thing I would replace. Are you hearing your fuel pump prime? If so the filter most likely could be the problem. You can also pinch off the return fuel line and see if you get fuel pressure, I’ve seen fuel regulators fail as well
Filter is brand new , pump primes
@@Stage3motorsports860 do you have a pressure gauge hooked to the rail? If so what pressure are you getting?
You just saved me a bunch of fucking money. You rock dude
thanks sir it worked well on my civic..Godbless
Hey so this is when the harness is bad and relay is good right
I never said anything about the harness, that must be good as well. This problem will cause the ECU to not output control to the main relay.
I think I’m in the same position you were, I’ve ensured that the issue isn’t the relay, or the pump itself, is there anything else I should check before trying this?
If you are comfortable using a Haynes manual and a volt meter you can verify where the voltage stops or just isn’t there.... the output that controls the fuel pump rest at 12 volts if my memory serves correct
this seems to match almost identically the issues my accord is experiencing.
two questions tho.
1)did you ever experience any random stalls
2)do you remember any occasion. of finding your battery low without obvious cause?
iv lived with the slow fuel prime problem a long while. few weeks back battery was low for no obvious reason. only 2 small trips after that it stalls out while warming up and then began to resist starting progressively more until it justvdidnt even sound like it was close, just crank crank crank.
also when releasing the key from start position it sometimes would sound like the relays clicked again and occasionaly the tach would jump turning the key back to acc. also the car would make a grumble like it was trying to turn over even though wasnt touching the key.
sorry for such a big amount of text to read but would appreciate any input you may have as this is the closest description of my own problems iv found despite weeks of forum searching and my own diagnostic with the service manual.
I did have it stall, but only after I first started up every once in a while. Since I replaced IC17 I have not had a problem since. I don’t recall having battery issues. It does sound like a ECU issue though. I sent my ECU off and had it refreshed to help cure future issues as well.
Barry C ic17 is the 220uf capacitor?
or the long rectangle chip?
@@westhouse4641 the long piece
so my fuel pump primes. it turns over for a bit, then cranks up, starts, then after ab 2 seconds, it shuts off, then if i keep cranking it itll turn back on then shut off and keeps going. ive been fighting for a long time, idk what to do and i need help. it idled like it had a 5.0 cam in it
I would suggest finding someone local that has some basic knowledge or your car. There are too many variables that could cause issues like this
@@barryc1635yeah, i dont have the money for someone to come look at it. so im kind of clueless
@@aspeso4487 I wish I could help more, but I’m not a mechanic and can only help with what I had found
Thank you u answered a lot of questions i had. Btw great trick
Thank you for your quick response. I have a bit of an issue... i can't find the main micro relay for my Honda jazz 2006 in my area. What do you remember i use instead ? Thnx
Goat thank you man
Where can I get my hands on a chip? I tried looking it up but no luck? Thank you in advance.
Check with Jasonwaterstuning.com
Thanks so much! You're a life saver.
Idk what to do. Why does this work. I just replaced 3 capacitors and it's till doing the same thing
This isn’t a capacitor issue. IC17 is the part that would need replacing. That’s assuming this is your problem
@@barryc1635 well I just ordered one we'll see
Thank you! Very helpful!
thank you so much for the infos. more power to your channel.
I replaced the fuel pump and the main relay and I still don’t have any fuel pressure. It’s summer right now and currently 85 degrees and humid as hell outside. I haven’t used a heat gun yet but do you think it would work in my case
Spay a little starter fluid into the intake and see if it try’s crank. If it does that means the main relay and the rest of that wiring is probably ok and the problem would more than likely be the IC17 issue
@@barryc1635 thank you for the fast reply. I’m going to try that tomorrow it’s getting late over here but if I does start up from the starter fluid I should try replacing that fuse or relay that is on the ecu?
@@mickeyyy7571 if it does start that means the rest of the ignition system is working, the same fuse normally controls everything related to the relay and injectors. IC17 inside the ECU only controls the fuel pump
Can I just replace the computer I’m having the same issue on a 92 eg that I bought . I replaced the fuel pump today and I’m still having this issue the fuel pump comes on when it wants too ???
Did changing the part fix the problem ?
For me yes
I have replaced all the capacitor, but the problem is still not resolved. Do i have to replace the ic 17 too?
Ic17 was the problem I had. I went ahead and upgraded the capacitors afterwards to be safe
@@barryc1635 ic 17 must be programmed or just replace it?
@@panduraga just replacement. Requires someone with good soldering skills
@@barryc1635 ok thank you so much!
Yep that was the issue
Cant wait to try this
Hopefully it works for you
@@barryc1635 Im having same issue with my 93 eg I just bought and it's my first winter so I'm guessing this is it. Haven't ran in couple weeks
@@Mario-et3tp very possible, if you leave the key on foe a while it might heat up the ECU enough to start, that’s how I started to figure things out and narrowed things down
Bro I got the same problem you got a part number for 1c17 and is it the same for a p28 ? I used a hair dryer and it worked it started right up
If you scroll trough some of the reply’s I had listed the part number in response, I’m glad it helped you find the issue
I have the issue with mine I’m trying to fix it completely
Hopefully this video will help
Why dose your check engine flash 3 times
It’s the software I run, it’s just part of its startup
Let me ask you couple of questions. How do I know which model my car is? Like if it is EG things like that. I have a 1995 civic coupe ex 1.6 manual transmission.
Now couple of weeks ago it started with starting issues. I first thought it was the starter, I replaced it and it started well for a day, went down again. I replaced the fuel filter, and fired up, then die again. So my next step was replacing the pump, which solved the problem for a day and it went back to not starting again. Now will the heating up thing help solve the problem? Or should I get a new ECU??
Thank you for your help.
EG is 1992-1995. This could apply to yours. You need to listen and see if the fuel pump primes when the key turns on
@@barryc1635 Hi Barry, thank you for the tips. Here’s my situation I heated up the ecu and my car started right away. It was working fine yesterday since it was hot, but after seated all night this morning it didn’t start again. The engine light doesn’t go off like it used when you say the pump primes. What should I do? Resold the ic37 or get a new ecu? What’s easiest? And if I had to buy that little black thing the 37, where do I get it and what is it called?
Thank you very much again for your time and reply.
@@ricardosom7766 I would recommend contacting JasonWatersTuning to get that ECU completely serviced. It will probably cost 150-250 I’m guessing, but it will get it back to like new condition. The Main Relay is the other part in the driver kick panel about the hood release
@@barryc1635 hi Barry, just wanted to thank you for the help and advice with my car issue. I contacted waters he was going to charge me $150 to repair the ecu. Then I found out I could buy the capacitor kit which I did. Y solder 5 news one un my car is working just perfect.
Thank you again, god bless.
Truly glad I could help
Hello, I have same problem, sometimes I could start 30x times, and sometimes 30x no start when I turn key on, and now when I turn key on engine control still light, but fuel pump no pressure, so where is the problem, is it in ecu and what is ic 17?
IC 17 on the board of the ECU has become a common failure. Read through some of the comments, I left a part number in one of the post.
I have the same problem, does changing IC17 solve the problem, or is there another electronic component that causes this problem?
I’ve had no problem since I changed IC17. Sorry for the late response. I didn’t get a alert you replied
Do you have the part number of IC 17 please.
@@julianfernando6951 TA8903SN
@@barryc1635 thanks
Hii i have the same problem. I've changed IC17 it worked good the first day. But the other morning i still have the same old problem. Do you know what the problem can be?
100% support
Ohhh 🎉 thanks you sir very very thanks you 🎉 . Finally .
Anyone have this issue in a DA I’m having a hell of a time, replaced the whole fuel system besides the lines, new fresh b20b swap, obd1 distributor obd2 injectors can’t figure out what’s going on
This is a issue known on the OBD1 ecu’s You will unfortunately need to do all the required testing to narrow down what is not the problem first
@@barryc1635 so I’ve checked spark fuel and replaced the main relay today and now it’s clicking 4times compared to the old one which only clicked 3 (no click on crank) and it’s still doing the same symptom, didn’t help that I have the dash and cluster out rn but I’m gonna spend some time tomorrow when I get off the clock and voltage check all the circuts.
@@8lives941 what ECU? Obd1?
I just bought A new p28 and it had this same problem.
I recommend replacement of all caps inside the ECU also
Bro, I’m having this god damn issue for a Year now. The Car turns on without any problem for like 2 months, and then for no reason the issue returns.
Yesturday i got this issue again, it was damn hot here, 30°C+
I was going home after work, so i let the car there and came back at night. The car turned on without any problem
Borrow a ECU and see if it will prime your car, You don’t even have to crank it ( i case you have a custom tune). But if it primes fine with another ECU you probably have this issue
I have a 96 honda civic i turn it on and within 30 seconds it will turn off then i will not be able to start it up.
Your car is OBD2, the ECU in mine is OBD1And is different than yours. I’ve unfortunately not had to ever trouble shoot the issue your having and won’t be able to help
I have a 2000 civic I have the same problem
If this works I hope 🤞 and hope
jasonwaterstuning.com is a seller that can service Honda ECU’s that I trust
Just tried this and it didn’t work for me. Lol
Probably not the issue for you, or the ECU is just bad.
@@barryc1635 yeah idk what it is, this is the 2nd ecu I’ve purchased and still have no prime ti the fuel pump and ecu stays on. Changed the fuel pump main relay checked all fuses and now idk where to begin car cranks but doesn’t start I know that I should hear the fuel pump prime and ecu used to shut off on accessories key turn. Man so frustrating
@@kaseone6896 need to use wiring diagram and verify power on each point of the main relay
@@barryc1635 @barry c thanks for the advice, gonna do that. I hope I can get this thing up and running again. Spending too much on Parts lol
Just did this and it worked.... 45 seconds lol it hasnt ran in a week..
Glad it helped get you in the right direction
Unfortunately as soon as I shut the car off I had to reheat the ECU, but atleast the battery got recharged and I can move it around. Getting a new ecu soon I hope. They're gettin rare to find
@@brandong6766 send it to Jason waters tuning. He can rebuild it for you
I had Eric Jarvis do alot of my work.. he reccomends I just get a new ecu. Mine has already been fixed once before. So most likely it wont last long. I can just put my chip in the new ecu and be done.
I told Jarvis about this trick, he said wow that's weird lol