How to Test and Replace Main Relay | Honda Acura 92-00 | Car No Start
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มี.ค. 2019
- How to test and replace a Honda and/or Acura main relay!
Tool List:
Replace Main Relay
Remove and replace main relay
- 10mm wrench...all you need!
Test Main Relay
- Multi-meter with ability to test continuity
- (2) alligator clips
- 14-16 gauge female wire connectors. Remove plastic cover if one
is present
Testing Procedure:
1st Test - Battery (+) terminal connect to no. 6* main relay terminal
- Battery (-) terminal connect to no. 8 main relay terminal
- Place multi-meter prongs on no. 5 and no. 7 main relay
terminals
- Listen for beep from multi-meter, if beeps continue with test.
No beep replace main relay.
* If your main relay does not have a no. 6 terminal, but rather a
no. 4 terminal, use the no. 4 terminal
2nd Test - Battery (+) terminal connect to no. 5 main relay terminal
- Battery (-) terminal connect to no. 2 main relay terminal
- Place multi-meter prongs on no. 1 and no. 3 main relay
terminals
- Listen for beep from multi-meter, if beeps continue with test.
No beep replace main relay.
3rd Test - Battery (+) terminal connect to no. 3 main relay terminal
- Battery (-) terminal connect to no. 8 main relay terminal
- Place multi-meter prongs on no. 5 and no. 7 main relay
terminals
- Listen for beep from multi-meter, if beeps your main relay if
working properly. No beep replace main relay.
Relay Diagram:
-----------------------------------------
- 8 6 empty 2 -
- -
- -
- 7 5 3 1 -
-----------------------------------------
*If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing. New videos every month*
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Engineered Mojo assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Engineered Mojo recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Engineered Mojo. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Added correction for feeling for clicks. You'll only feel two clicks; 1st at key position II and second click at key position III (ignition, car turns on)
Mine only clicks once. And I resaudered it. It looks good. What do you think?
@@frankifleury5606 does it start yet? If not I would test the relay as I did in the video. You may need to resolder
I just replaced relay and I still only have one click at the on 2nd turn of my key
@@kentjordan3574 do you hear the fuel pump priming in the background with the key in position II?
@@EngineeredMojo no sir it does not power on.
Thank you! No crazy music on the background, nice English pronunciation, and simple and straight to the point explanation. You just got thumbs up.
Nice, glad the video provided good value! Appreciate the feedback and taking the time to share your thoughts
Been looking for days on where to find it. I eventually found it myself in a different location but same general area before watching this. Glad I am able to test this myself after of course I get connectors and alligator clips. Also to anybody needing to replace, if you take out the burgundy connector from the Mitsuba housing, you can find that some of the solder joints are cracked and can be resoldered and restored. A lot of videos on YT of that.
This is good info thanks for sharing!
qqaa
Excellent video and thanks for including the pinouts and testing procedure! I used your test to verify that my newbie re-soldering was effective on my '96 accord. Two further tips. 1) You don't need to remove the 8mm bolt to get to the relay. You can just slide it up and out (may be a little sticky at first). 2) Also, to give yourself more room under there, you can remove the under-dash with only one screw hidden behind the coin tray to the left of the steering wheel.
Ahh thanks for the tips! The less bolts to remove (and possibly lose) the better haha. Awesome you went the resoldering fix route. Did you find it a simple process? I've soldered different components in past but never a circuit board. Also thanks for taking the time to leave feedback and provide useful tips. This is getting pinned
@@EngineeredMojo Yes. I had never really soldered before. I just watched this video ( th-cam.com/video/-PLCEeTeXys/w-d-xo.html ) bought a cheap soldering iron and gave it a go. I figured the worst case is it wouldn't work and would go ahead and spend the $50 on a replacement. But your tests gave me the confidence that I could prove continuity after completing the solder. And I could definitely see the cracks visually within at least 2 or 3 of the existing solder points when I began. I am not normally a fix it guy, so it was very satisfying to "do a thing". Thanks again.
Thank you so much this is what I needed to have my 95 teggy run I appreciate you more than you know!!! Great Video!!!
Awesome to hear, glad the video was what you needed for your vehicle!
This was the most clear and soothing no start video I’ve seen . Lmao
Lol I'll take that feedback and comment
Thank you for the help, you're a great teacher and it was easy to read another model of the main relay just by how you explained it. Great description as well, made it way easier to follow the process.
Awesome to hear, glad I was able to lay out the process simple enough. Appreciate you taking time to provide feedback!
This is an awesome informative and peaceful video, respect man !! I am subscribing.
Appreciate the feedback and glad you dig the calm vibes of the video! Car maintenance doesn't need to be anymore more stressful than it is haha
Thanks a lot for this video bro, now i can finally drive my Honda civic again.
Glad the video was helpful and appreciate you taking time to comment!
Amazingly helpful video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the helpful video!
No problem, hope it helped with you vehicle. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Where have you been all this time friendship!?!?! I needed this video MONTHS ago. Go looking through your videos and theres like 10 videos I needed!!! ERrmeagerrrr
Haha well hopefully I have some beneficial videos for you in the future 😅
@@EngineeredMojo 93 Honda civic fuel dx pump wiring... I'll be patiently waiting
thanks for sharing these steps. just going thru the test procedure unstuck my relay and my no-fuel, no-spark issue was resolved.
Hell yea that's awesome to hear, glad it worked out well
Very helpful. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to share feedback on the video
You did a terrific job, young man. Very very nice tutorial video.Thanks, & Keep going on.
Appreciate the thoughtful comment! Glad you found the video of good quality and for sure I'm still making videos!
Thanks from Taiwan. I have a 93 Honda eg.
Awesome, glad the video has reached far :)
Very helpful, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
excellent video, very helpfull. thank you,
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent. Thanks! The test also works with a 9v battery. I tried it inside where easier to work with.
I have a 2001 CrV. It jerked a little at low RPMs one day around a traffic circle or two, stalled in motion during a turn but would start immediately back up with some extra throttle. The next day it wouldn't start. It's a manual transmission. It was running like a top for 1,500 miles with 35+ mpg fuel economy.
No codes. Battery is good/charged. Spark production at plugs are arcing and appear correctly timed. All the fuses inside cab and the motor bay are good by sight and ohm tested. Main relay under glove box appears good and tested good. No oil or coolant cross- contamination. Motor oil and coolant is full.
I've tried the accelerator all the way to floor as well as pumping.
I've tried spraying starter fluid into the intake and still no start. It will crank and crank until battery is dead. If I hold gas pedal 100% down it sounds like it almost wants to start (sometimes) but doesn't.
What should I check next? Again, no obd2 codes are in the computer. I was gonna check for fuel on the output side of the fuel filter....just loosen the sealing nut a couple of turns. The timing should be fine and there's no abnormal noises from anywhere. Thanks!
A compression test would be my next step, if you don't have the gauge that plugs into the spark plug hole it can be rented for free from an auto parts store. Then I'd check fuel pressure as you state above, keep me posted on the process if you remember to come back to this thread!
I would check the crank position sensor
@@stevenblack2548 new info. It will start and run for 3 to 5 minutes and then hard stall and sometimes restart but usually not. When it cools down it will restart 6 to 24 hours later.
@@thesetruths1404 my car is having this issue please tell me if you fixed it
@@sdtruth619 the issue was a bad ICM (Ignition control module) from the get go. I replaced it early-on but the part was bad and kept it failing. I went thru everything twice and when I reinstalled the original ICM it changed enough to give me idea it was a bad ICM. Ordered 2nd new one ( more pricey brand ) and sure enough it worked. If you install an ICM buy one that's $40+ in cost. Not a China one.
God tier video.
Appreciate the feedback!!
Thank you for this informative and we'll explained video of the process.. I would much rather be learning how to than spending money to A - learn nothing, B - paying another man's bills when I have my own. 😁
Haha preach, always good to save a dollar. Glad the video was helpful
Brother thank you for your video, it's very informative I just added to my Honda Knowledge...I had a vague idea what Honda OGs were talking about but now it's very clear.....I see you have a Civic are you a Civc enthusiast or was the car for demonstration.... thanks 👍🏾🔰🤜🏾🤛🏾💯🏎️
Definitely a Honda Civic enthusiast, 17 years strong with the same car in this video :). Glad the video was informative and good luck with your Honda!
Good knowledge Boss 💯
Appreciate the video feedback! Based on your username do you have a B18 in your EG? I have a B20 right now
Hey for 97 ek the main relay isnt on driver side; yes i do egb18 & fg2 Honda for life
Thanks 👍
No problem! Hope it was helpful
Props for making a good video in an apartment parking lot. I use to have to work outside too. Made me tough and thankful to have a shop to work in now
Appreciate you noticing that fact haha, had to make do with what I had at the time. As you said, definitely makes a person appreciate working in space on a car. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment
@@EngineeredMojo you bet! Thank you for the advice, I used it. My relay is clicking and I have pressure on the rail. Now I'm digging into the distributor. I had no idea they have problems like they do. Had a little bit of oil in the bottom of the distributor cap, but def not oil soaked. No spark though. Any more advice on this one? Have a good day!
@@jesseray8433 there is an O ring in the distributor that sounds like it needs to be changed. But I doubt that would be the cause of a no start. I'd keep pushing through the steps. You've verified fuel, now you can verify spark. Inline spark tester can be sourced as a loaner tool from a local auto parts store. If that checks out, good ol compression check is next. Which that tool can also be gotten as a loaner and not much different process than inline spark test
This helped me out big time thanks!
Glad it helped and thanks for taking time to share your thoughts on video!
For reference, just cause you got continuity, does not mean about the resistance that are in them. Most relays on the power side usually have 0.2. Fuel pump circuit to main relay output wire should be at most 2.5 ish ohms. Might sound a little high but shout be enough for 5 amps-ish to go through. Just fuel pump, the ohm are 0.5. It can also be the main relay having too high of ohms
Great info, thanks!! Will help me in future track down issues
Good job. I Hope I can fix my car. Thanks.
Appreciate the time you took to comment and good luck with your fix!
@@EngineeredMojo thank you from Brasil.
Great video. Relay works. On to the next problem...
haha one issue crossed out...small victory
Thankyou
No problem 😊
Thank you for the advice. If all the 3 continuity tests succeed then does it mean I have to look for problems elsewhere? I mean does it completely outrule the main relay then?
In my experience, it does verify the relay is working. Each circuit on the board is having full operability. Unless there is visible damage to the relay, I'd move on to test other components of the all important spark, fuel, and compression items that get s car started. If you want to rule relay out completely, you could always buy a relay and pop it in. If it doesnt work, just return the relay. Takes some time but not much effort. Hope that helps!
Great video. This helped me out a lot. If I may suggest, it may be a good idea to show the entire process for testing so people can follow along step by step to make sure they're testing things properly. Keep up the good work and keep the information flowing!
Thanks for taking the time to provide feedback! I agree looking back on it the testing part does dive into a different territory that may need more explanation, took me awhile to get it right myself
Thank you, a ton, for this video I definitely had to subscribe. I accidentally shocked myself by not paying attention haha but where all good no more holding alligator clips in one hand. Now i did figure out that when I did the 2nd test I had no continuity, nor any clicks would that mean that somewhere on my circuit the relay isn't responding? Edit in all the years I've worked on cars I have never shocked myself till today lol
Haha nothing like a small shock to get your attention to the task. Yes, with no clicks or continuity most likely a solder has degraded on the circuit board. There are a few videos showing repair of the relay by resolder. If you have the tools already may be worth a try before buying another relay
Thanks for your video I have a 92 civic that won't start after this video I noticed only one click in positions 2
Glad the video was a helpful resource!
Would you happen to have the test procedure for testing the harness that the relay plugs into..
I do not unfortunately, if you are comfortable with using a voltmeter and have a haynes manual, there are good wiring diagrams in their for Honda/Acura that will show you which wires are used to complete a circuit. That'll help guide you on the sequence to test you harness. Hope that helps a bit
Hi, just so you know, in your instructions you miswrote to replace the multi-meter when I believe you meant to write replace main relay. If you can still correct this on youtube that would be great for future readers who are not mechanics who are testing their main relay. Thanks again for your video!
Thanks for the notification on that slip! Just updated the sections where that occurred. Hope the video was helpful overall :)
Thank you May God you bless you richly everything very 🌺understandable🏝🌹🌴🌸
Thanks glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the "click" tip on the main relay. I had never heard that one before.
I can feel it click twice - but then there isn't the usual sound of the pump priming. Would this point to a bad fuel pump ? ( It worked perfect up until just now - although my MPG dropped from 42 down to 31 with all other things being equal ) But no other symptoms what-so-ever.
I plan to jump it and see if i can bypass the main relay as a test.
Thanks again for the tip.
Awesome to hear the tip about listening for the relay to physically engage was helpful. It's definitely just one indicator of possible failure. Since you still don't hear the pump prime, main relay might still be the issue. I like the idea to attempt to bypass relay. Never tried that route myself, but could help you narrow down the issue.
@@EngineeredMojo BTW, Though a little rough in places,( the audio ) overall your video has a pro look to it.
Especially the opening shot with you in the car. ( The framing of the shot )
Fantastic video! One of the best, easiest to follow DIY videos on anything that I've seen on YT. When I tested me old relay, it passed. When I tested the new one that I bought before watching this video, it read 570, but did not beep and did not click. What does that mean - is it bad? My 1995 Accord EX cranks, but does not start. No power from relay to prime the fuel pump. Has fuel pressure. Coughs when I spray starting fluid into the air intake. Put on new fuel filter. (Nightmare) Tried a new distributor because I was getting code 09. Wondering if ECM is bad...
Hmm that is a tough one, if the relay is new it's rare for it to be a dud from the manufacturer. If you can get your hands on a ECU from a car similar to yours to test that would be my next step. Hopefully you know a friend who has a matching OBD ECU!
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks for the response! I'm hunting down an ECU now.
@@EngineeredMojo Update: I ordered an ECU on eBay with the same part number for $80. It arrived and I waited a couple days because I wasn't looking forward to another failure. Plugged it in. Turned the key and the car started perfectly. Almost couldn't believe it. Woohoo! So, if the relay tests ok, but the fuel pump doesn't kick on and car cranks without starting...it's the ECU.
@@johnlibonati7807 great news and glad to hear! Thanks for the update, I plan to log that as a solution when going through the progression of figuring the issue
So i have a 1999 Acura RL and my main relay is closer to the steering column on right hand side and it looks nothing like this relay. If there was a pin out and test process for my relay, it would be awesome.
Those little terminals you're using are called Fast-Ons.
Ahh that's good to know, thanks for the info!
Hey I have a 99 civic and my injectors are getting no power ,fuel pump is sending fuel to the fuel rail ,cranks has spark ,starts on starting fluid ,I already checked/switched pgm-fi I hear/ feel the 2 clicks the car ran fine till it didn’t want to start you do have any idea what could be the issue ?thanks in advance
Do you know if a main relay failure would lead to a no spark issue or does it only affect the fuel system? Struggling to determine the cause of a no spark on my 95 Integra. Thanks!
That wouldn't be my first guess. The ignition system is made of really two components, primary and secondary. Primary the igniter or ignition module, the crank sensor, cam sensor, and ignition switch itself. Secondary is distributor, wires, cap and rotor. I'd test to make sure your ignition switch is working as that actually just failed on my Honda few months ago. Posted a how to on that as well. Only reason I knew it was ignition switch is that my car would cut on and die immediately and I tested all other components in primary side of ignition.
Engineered Mojo, awesome. I’ll check that out too. Previous owner had an alarm system removed. Not sure if that’s related. I’ve tested the entire distributor assembly (Coil and ICM) and everything ohms ok. Just no spark.
On test 3, pin 3 and 8. I get rapid clicking unlike the other ones are just a solid click. Is that normal? I have two relay so I tried both but also don't know if the other one is broken aswell as it was pulled out at a junkyard
If you are still hearing beep from multimeter for continuity, you should be good. Sometimes a short at the alligator clip/pin connection causes me abnormal click feedback i.e. clip is touching another pin accidently. Hope that helps!
I have honda accord 1999 v6. It is losing power and surging only when in drive. Loses power as you push the gas then kicks in and races forward. No engine light. When it doesn't do this it drives great. Someone said main relay could cause this. Thoughts?
hmm that's tough especially with no check engine light. Have you checked for vacuum leaks in any of the air hoses in the engine bay?
HOLY FUCKING SHIT MAN YOU SAVED MY GIRLFRIEND MAN THANK YOU
Glad the video was a helpful resource!!
I only get one click after the key is turned. It’s is the the second turn on the key when I get a click. Should I feel a click on the first turn of the key. Thanks in advance
The last two clicks after 1st turn key is what your really looking to feel. After doing this a few times I couldn't always feel first click for some reason but my relay was working properly. The last two clicks are always strong though
how is the hyper tough multi meter? pretty good. thought about buying one. good vid btw
Appreciate the feedback on the video. I'm more than happy with that multimeter, covers the basic items I need done with car electronics and the occasional audio I do in my car and home
Yeah imma have to scoop that bro. I looked at your vid because I lost touch on diagnosis. My issue is I have a 90 integra DA with a b20z2 swap that won't start all of a sudden. It's been a while since I dug thru one of these
nice video i have a issue in my 92 teg where the relay wont work and i replaced it with a new one and nothing still
Were you sure you had a faulty relay? If so, you may have had additional issues causing no start. What are the symptoms of your car? Does it start and then cut off...or no crank at all? When diagnosing an issue I always keep it simple...fuel, spark, combustion is what a car needs to run. Check you are getting all three
Cranks, no fuel or spark, seems like no power to ecu, when the key is turned to ignition is only light that pops up is the battery light. Already checked grounds and replaced main relay check all my fuses. There has to be a short somewhere I swapped in a b20v
@@db2alex746 is your fuel pump priming when you turn key to acc 2? You'd hear an audible hum from your back seat area? You may have an ignition switch issue. Which those aren't hard to change but it's not easy just finding the switch and not whole ignition case which is expensive.
Engineered Mojo yah no fuel priming and it’s weird I mean the car was fine before I took the engine out
DB2 Alex
Check to see if there is a grounds wire on the thermostat housing. Check for corrosion or damage connector has that can cause u not to get any spark or fuel
Hi, i did the same, it click once, i resolded it, but the same, just on click. What should i do to ensure i have a broke main relay?
Have you retested the relay in your car? Does your car start or still no start?
Music reminds of dying light 😂
The video game? That's one of my favortie games haha, must have influenced me
@@EngineeredMojo yes the video game lol. Was concentrated on the alligator teeth not staying up then dying came to play 🤣
I got continuity at the test.but got no click noise after i turn my igniction swich one step
Take a read through the video description. It's been updated to reflect the click should be felt on the second key turn. I spoke incorrectly in the video. But if you have continuity, then most likely the issue is not with the relay. Have you check whether you are getting spark?
And what should the numbers look like on the meter if it’s a good relay ?
It's just a continuity test so no numbers to view. You are only listening for the beep noise to confirm a complete circuit
@@EngineeredMojo yeah I ain’t got a tester that beeps just numbers
Hi,
Do you know if these cars have immobiliser module/unit??
All key lost. I cut a key/blade, car cranks but doesn't start.
Now Honda tells me immobiliser is in the main relay.
Is ithat right??
Thanks in advance
My 1995 OBD1 Civic did not as I am always able to get a key made at local hardware store, but a newer version may have an immobilizer. Especially if your vehicle is OBD2 engine management system
@@EngineeredMojo it's a Honda Accord 1992, 2.2 petrol. Do you think these will have immobiliser module
@@swarajjoye ahh if European possibly so
I have a question. I HAVE A 1999 Acura CL 2.3. Lately I can drive it for consecutive days and it will run fine. Then I will drive it and suddenly cuts off. Once I let it sit for awhile and crank it 5 or 6 times it will start and then cutoff and start again and run fine.
I was told that it was the Throttle Body position censor and then again I was told it's the Fuel pump relay.
Please advise.....
I cleaned the throttle body real good and it ran for a week straight with no issues.
If your car runs then suddenly stops, my initial guess is you are either losing fuel or spark. Throttle body sensor could be a concern. It's fairly easy and cheap to do a swap and trial or to test if you have a ohm meter. Given the car starts, compression loss shouldn't be a concern unless it's running rough while started. This type of problem will take a bit of testing to see what can be the issue if you are not throwing a code. I'd start with visual inspections of the fuel pump (see if any rusting has occurred), fuel lines, and visual of your ignition system from the ignition inside the car, alternator, down to your spark plugs. From there you can run inline spark tester to test ignition, which is fairly simple. I'd test as much as you can before replacing parts in a trial and error method. You may be able to rule out a spark issue or fuel issue or throttle position sensor issue.
@@EngineeredMojo I ran it this morning no problem no error codes. I'm lost....spark plugs, wires, distributor cap all changed. I did the starter fluid test and it started which probably means t he relay is faulty.
@@gilliammark5083 I see you've exhausted your tests and replacements, at least that's out of the way. Good thing is the relay is easy to test or if you don't want to deal with breaking out a voltmeter, relatively cheap to attempt a swap trial and easily returnable if that's not the problem. Do you here the fuel pump prime when you turn your key to the 2nd position?
@@EngineeredMojo haven't really paid much attention. I find it strange that the car will cut off and 5 minutes later start right back up and run and throw no codes.
Like I said I'm lost on this one. My neighbor is my mechanic he's a certified mechanic through Firestone. Did the starter fluid test and it cranked right up.
Fuel pump relay or the main relay.
Question....when I change the Relay is there fuses inside the fuse box that are bad?
Heaven help you if it is an 89 Integra. It is all the way up further back near the firewall, and way up out of reach and out of sight mounted along side a couple other switches.
Wow, not the typical considerate japanese engineering haha. Good to know thanks for sharing! I run across those gen integras every now and then
On 6th gen civics it's to the right of the glove box.
This is a good point and tip!
Could it be a main replay issue if it cranks and wont start and than after trying a second time it turns right on?
Possibly, but not as likely from experiences I've read on car forums. That could be a solder in the main relay beginning to fail, but from the typical story...once it goes it's without warning haha
I see i might check the solders soon or later i dont drive it as much and it still turns on so im not in a big rush thanks for the reply
Is the relay supposed to get hot while while the car is running?
Yes it may get a bit warm, but it shouldn't be too hot to touch with your hand
My canadian 99 civic Si (american would be EX) keeps blowing fuse 15 (alternator/speedsensor) but if I unplug my main relay it doesnt blow it. Something about that main relay or wiring is causing it.
Check out this thread, you may have a short circuit beneath your intake:
www.honda-acura.net/forums/92-civic-el-and-del-sol/215003-alternator-fuse-keeps-blowing-whats-the-problem.html
@@EngineeredMojo im afraid not. i have a k20a2 swap out of a 02 rsx type S. everything was running fine on that type S. its just my civic has been sitting for a year and half. i feel as if my pump maybe went bad or relay contacts got messed up. car sat in extreme cold and then extreme heat
and if one of the wires from the main relay harness shorted im gona wana give up
and if one of the wires from the main relay harness shorted im gona wana give up
Will it roughly be the same on a 2000 crv?
Yup similar process but believe main relay for crv is on passenger side of vehicle
This would be the same for the 93' Integra 1.8.?
Should be similar process and same location for sure!
@@EngineeredMojo thank you!
Can you please answer I have 1992 Acura Integra 1.8 and I have to be replacing it every like 5 months the main relay is that normal being and old car I won't hear the click it won't turn on r I have to open the key live it for a while then it will turn on but eventually it won't. I replaced the main relay than it turns on .
If you are replacing the main relay every few months, I would trace/view the wiring back to the fuse box to see if there is any damaged wiring to the main relay that may be causing an electrical short circuit. It shouldn't be malfunctioning every few months
@@EngineeredMojo ok ty I replaced the main relay fuse I put it on, but thers still no click, the check engine is on, when it use to click the check engine would turn off and it would turn on like nothing, why is it not clicking ?
@@cadillack6989 does your vehicle now start and stay running but with a check engine light?
@@EngineeredMojo no it doesn't turn on the car I been looking for info I found a similar problem and something about ECU the check engine don't blink it just stays on ? Could it be the ECU
@@cadillack6989 do you know anyone with a car similar to yours where you can swap there ecu to test? It could potentially be an ecu problem. Ecus are fairly cheap as well on the used market
What if the starter relay clicks, and the car cranks but doesn’t turn over. The fuel pump works, battery works, and the relay does the clicks the way it’s supposed to.
If your certain your getting fuel, next check would be to confirm you're getting spark. They sell online spark testers that are fairly cheap and easy to use. If spark is confirmed your next step is to test compression at each cylinder. Again a compression tester is fairly cheap tool, it's just a process. I'll put this on my list as a video to make but in the meantime their is a channel chrisfix that goes through the process I talk about above on a general overview
disculpa. acabo de cambiar la bomba de gasolina, y al abrir la llave si suena la bomba trabajar, pero al quitar el filtro arriba del motor, no sale gasolina, es decir, no sube la gasolina, que puede ser la falla?
Espero que estés bien, ¿has inspeccionado el fusible de la bomba de gasolina?
no tengo otro para hacer la prueba. mañana por el dia lo voy a verificar mas a detalle. un saludo y gracias por contestar a estas horas. @@EngineeredMojo
I don't understand why you need to connect the relay and multimeter to a 12v battery to check continuity. Multimeters have internal batteries for finding continuity. Or are you checking for voltages? I checked all 7 connections of my main relay with the multimeter (no 12v battery involved) and not connecter showed any continuity with any other connecter. I suppose this means the relay needs repair. Correct? You didn't show the two other of the three tests, but which terminals do you test for continuitiy? They are numbered 1-8 on the relay base. Which to which?
You're not going to get enough voltage to actuate the relay without a battery. That's the purpose of the battery and probably why you are not being able to accurately test continuity. If you were just checking a straight path of wire connection no battery would be needed, but remember you are testing a relay and the switches only open and close electromagnetically. Hope that clears it up, use the battery as shown haha
@@EngineeredMojo O.K., I understand the need for a 12v battery. I still don't know which terminals to attach voltage to then which terminals between which to check continuity. As it turns out, I'm not going to concern myself with that this week-end since I did continuity test of the circuit board itself, between the protruding wire terminals and the one or ones on that segment of the board. These all connected, with small ohms, with current moving across the board. One terminal, though, would connect only contacting the solder, not the wire. And the wire and its own solder don't connect. Although the disconnection is essentially invisible, this must be the broken solder connection. I plan to re-solder it, then re-install and test for starting.
Can a bad main relay cause your car to die on you while driving but then start back up after a couple of minutes?
That doesn't sound like a relay given the car was already operating. It could be a failing circuitry board within the main relay, but I doubt it. Worth testing your relay though. I had a similar issue and it happened to be my ignition switch
Fuck yeah I’m going to fix my 1990 now
the oem ones had a recall
Oh snap good to know! Thanks for the info
Good video go my Honda crv 2000 ex 4x4 stared morning good like 35 m driving coming back house put it off no want to stared like 25 m stared ogaing thing bad realay
Definitely could be the relay starting to fail, random solder failing in the circuit board.
@@EngineeredMojo ok thank s much check it Honda diller to much moeny seee where can got it for lest moeny
@@angelgarcias7328 I got mine from Autozone, I believe for $60. Not too bad for a simple fix. If it doesnt work, it's a fast return to the store
@@EngineeredMojo thas true can buy it used 2 day to see do saint thing it do ogaing go back auto zone g m moeny back thank s much thas need asking main realay
Thanks, but there is no video description for my phone, so I was left hanging.
Oh wow, that's new info. I though all youtube app versions had ability to expand video description text right below the video. I know it works on Android and Apple devices
Did you disconnect battery
I did not given the main relay does not have an influence on the charging system or direct connection from the charging system
Help someone my car has power but wont start I replaced the starter it was not it it just stop working when I stop for gas and hop back in then it stop working doesnt crank just shows dash lights
No crank? As in your car won't turn over and try to start? Sounds like it could be a possible issue in your ignition system. Does your fuel pump prime as in can you hear it when key is turned to II?
@@EngineeredMojo Same problem with my civic. I did a auto to manual swap and the car turned on fine and everything. I didn't drive it for a few day and when I did it was low on gas. I go to the gas station and add gas and then it won't start. There was a crank but wouldn't start so I had a spare battery and basically jump started it like that but as I was driving away the car idle was bad when accelerating. It wouldn't go more than 5mph until it suddenly stopped. From there I had to push my car home (Luckily I live a few blocks from where it all happened). It was a good work out though. From that day I replaced the fuel pump and still no go. The dashboard lights turn on and the main relay clicks are there. Fuel pump was just replaced and its priming. My only guess is the battery but I doubt it or else the lights inside would be dim or the car wouldn't have any power at all. What can it be?
@@samuelochoa3344 I assume no check engine lights correct? Sounds like your ecu went into "limp" mode since you could not travel more than 5mph. I would assume a distributor issue given the bad idle you mentioned and a clogged catlytic converter has been known to throw an ECU into "limp" mode. Do you have a spare distributor you could throw on your car to test or an inline spark tester(can be bought pretty cheap or as a free loaner tool)?
@@EngineeredMojo Thank you for the help brother! It ended up being the battery. The distributor would be a bit concerning though - being I'm on a slight budget lol. I'll forsure use this for whenever its needed. Thank you for the help and quick reply brother! Right on!!
@@samuelochoa3344 awesome! Always good to hear of a car fix being effective
what happens if i only feel one click??
You may have a circuitry failure. I'd either perform the test shown in this video or if you don't want to hassle with the testing you could purchase a new relay to see if it fixes your issue. Its such a fast swap and test, only costs time to drive to store and cost of relay if that's the issue.
Cant find the layout
what if i can only hear 1 click?
You might have a break in the circuitry. I'd test your relayboutside the car if you haven't already to be sure
I replaced the main relay and I still can't get my car started even replaced the fuel pump
You're are Guinness
How car stArts
In the description you keep saying if no tone replace multi-meter.....don't you mean to say replace main relay
Oh yea good catch haha, I'll have to update that thanks!
If you like the video please like and subscribe! Looking to scrounge up subscribers to spread helpful advice to and also gain some knowledge from them! Enjoy learning from my videos as much as I try to pass knowledge :)
Mind don’t click I put my hand on it I have a arcs rsx 2002
No click not a good sign for sure
you mean replace main relay not multi meter???
You have a time stamp for reference? Given this is a main relay fix video and a multi meter is not even a car part, you can safely bet if there was a word mix up main relay is prob the correct word.
only $50😮
Cheap cheap in 2021 dollars
It failed the first test. Thanks.
Gotta love that, saved some time! I'm glad the video was helpful
That song though 😴
Hopefully it provided a relaxing vibe!
If you need to explain to a multimeter owner where the continuity selection is....it's not going to get done right...lol
Haha you have a point there, fighting an uphill battle at that point
We all have to start somewhere..
@@EngineeredMojo hope you still have this Honda..
@@SamslamminCars I sure do, still running strong 💪🏾
Literally how people learn?….what
My 1990 Acura Integra gs's main relay doesn't have a 6th prong but rather the 4th prong is there. What would be the testing procedure under these circumstances.
-------------------------------
1 3 5 7
2 4 empty 8
---------------------------------
Let me see if I can hunt down some info for your year vehicle, I'll give update