Got done with the project a little bit ago today. Your video definitely helped. During the frustrating part of putting the snapring back in, I ended up using skinny tweezers to hold the piston in while squeezing the the snapring. Snapring pliers with end notches worked after trying ones that didn't have notches. Oh and using an old catfood cardboard crate box with 2" sides helped hold the bugger still in the corner of the box during the surgery. The air bleeding step on your video was a great help. After I bled the lines the old way it was still spongy feeling. So I held the master cylinder up in the air as you showed and pumped it some more then it was good. Thank you for a great video!
I enlisted my helper(wife) to push down on the piston with a torx screwdriver while I got the snap ring seated. My snap ring pliers required a bit of file modification to get them to close enough to squeeze the ring properly. I also used a long spark plug socket that matched the rubber cone diameter to push it in. My task was a bit more involved because I also drained the caliper. I had a heck of a time bleeding it all. In fact I gave up. Will attempt it tomorrow utilizing my helper.
Mine had the little conical spring inside the rubber plunger cover and I found it in two pieces when disassembling; that would be the reason they include a replacement conical spring as the kit services many models. . Thanks for the overhaul demonstration. And yes slavens provided my kit as well.
Got done with the project a little bit ago today. Your video definitely helped. During the frustrating part of putting the snapring back in, I ended up using skinny tweezers to hold the piston in while squeezing the the snapring. Snapring pliers with end notches worked after trying ones that didn't have notches. Oh and using an old catfood cardboard crate box with 2" sides helped hold the bugger still in the corner of the box during the surgery. The air bleeding step on your video was a great help. After I bled the lines the old way it was still spongy feeling. So I held the master cylinder up in the air as you showed and pumped it some more then it was good. Thank you for a great video!
Very nice content of your video: I come across and article about master cylinder (MC): The master cylinder piston size affects how your motorcycle brakes work by controlling the amount of brake fluid that is applied to the brake calipers. A larger piston size means that more brake fluid is applied to the calipers, which results in a stronger braking force. However, it also means that the brake lever will require more force to be applied in order to engage the brakes. On the other hand, a smaller piston size will result in less brake fluid being applied to the calipers, which means that the brake lever will require less force to be applied, but the braking force will be weaker. It is important to choose the right piston size for your motorcycle to ensure optimal braking performance. I need your help if you can answer for me the following question: 1. How do i know the piston sizes which fits to the MC? 2. How do I measure the piston? 3. What piston size are you using in the video?
The only thing I can add is the extremely overpriced KTM kit says to lube the new pistion- seals before reassembly. And yeah, backflushing with a 60cc syringe is WAY gooder.😉
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Got done with the project a little bit ago today. Your video definitely helped. During the frustrating part of putting the snapring back in, I ended up using skinny tweezers to hold the piston in while squeezing the the snapring. Snapring pliers with end notches worked after trying ones that didn't have notches. Oh and using an old catfood cardboard crate box with 2" sides helped hold the bugger still in the corner of the box during the surgery. The air bleeding step on your video was a great help. After I bled the lines the old way it was still spongy feeling. So I held the master cylinder up in the air as you showed and pumped it some more then it was good. Thank you for a great video!
I enlisted my helper(wife) to push down on the piston with a torx screwdriver while I got the snap ring seated. My snap ring pliers required a bit of file modification to get them to close enough to squeeze the ring properly. I also used a long spark plug socket that matched the rubber cone diameter to push it in. My task was a bit more involved because I also drained the caliper. I had a heck of a time bleeding it all. In fact I gave up. Will attempt it tomorrow utilizing my helper.
Try pushing fluid through the caliper into the master with a syringe bleeding kit. I found it really easy to get air out reverse bleeding.
Mine had the little conical spring inside the rubber plunger cover and I found it in two pieces when disassembling; that would be the reason they include a replacement conical spring as the kit services many models. . Thanks for the overhaul demonstration. And yes slavens provided my kit as well.
Great tip at the end, worked when I was losing hope - thanks!
Thank you very much I had no clue what I was doing and this helped if not I lost hope trying to bleed it and rebuild it
Thanks for the video, I'm about to attempt the project!
Got done with the project a little bit ago today. Your video definitely helped. During the frustrating part of putting the snapring back in, I ended up using skinny tweezers to hold the piston in while squeezing the the snapring. Snapring pliers with end notches worked after trying ones that didn't have notches. Oh and using an old catfood cardboard crate box with 2" sides helped hold the bugger still in the corner of the box during the surgery. The air bleeding step on your video was a great help. After I bled the lines the old way it was still spongy feeling. So I held the master cylinder up in the air as you showed and pumped it some more then it was good. Thank you for a great video!
does the kit come with the pin that is in that plunger thing?
Great video! 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you so much!
Thanks dude, gonna just pull mine apart and wash the heck out of the guts since I can’t find a kit in a reasonable amount of time.
Very nice content of your video:
I come across and article about master cylinder (MC):
The master cylinder piston size affects how your motorcycle brakes work by controlling the amount of brake fluid that is applied to the brake calipers. A larger piston size means that more brake fluid is applied to the calipers, which results in a stronger braking force. However, it also means that the brake lever will require more force to be applied in order to engage the brakes. On the other hand, a smaller piston size will result in less brake fluid being applied to the calipers, which means that the brake lever will require less force to be applied, but the braking force will be weaker. It is important to choose the right piston size for your motorcycle to ensure optimal braking performance.
I need your help if you can answer for me the following question:
1. How do i know the piston sizes which fits to the MC?
2. How do I measure the piston?
3. What piston size are you using in the video?
What are you attempting to do? The brake master cylinder for a motorcycle has a set piston size unless you change to a different master cylinder.
The only thing I can add is the extremely overpriced KTM kit says to lube the new pistion- seals before reassembly. And yeah, backflushing with a 60cc syringe is WAY gooder.😉
2022 husky way different
boutta take apart a 22' husky 701. RIP
Ktm master cylinders are the worst
Why ?
How did you go with the quality of the All-Balls kit? Some of their products (wheel bearings) are terrible which only lasted a few rides.