Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
This was a fantastic how to. I like the "no talk" and clear pictures!. Puppies are cool but I"m glad I was on a laptop at the time so that it was easy to skip.
this video was the first one which showed how to do it .. three days of searching and your video was like a breath of fresh air . / ray of sunshine ... well done you deserve a medal . My BOSCH master cylinder off my 2008 Citroen C5 was very similar to yours . the difference was a cross locking pin retaining the front seal assembly in place .
Very nice ! Have no brakes (all of the sudden) and looked at the res grommets and there is nothing there and she is leaking all over the booster . Having trouble locating these seals .
Thanks for sharing this video. We are manufacturing brake master cylinders for OEM. We recommend all end users to use the original equipments. Because all test are made under original equipment conditions. Even using a different oil may cause problems.
I couldn't do this... I rebuilt two of my brake calipers and they failed about 2 years after the rebuild. I actually firmly believe this wasn't my fault... I find it hard to believe that they would have lasted about 40,000 miles if I had done something wrong, but it had to be 1) inferior rebuild components, or 2) my fault. No matter which one it is I just don't want to risk a failure on my master cylinder, I live in Florida and going from 80 to 20 in a couple seconds is a necessity if you're on the highway, so I just rather not risk it. Also the rebuild kits I can find for the master cylinder are the same supplier as the caliper rebuild kit, so if it was a quality issue with the seals then it could reoccur with these kits I'm afraid. I'd like to note that they're DORMAN kits... I've had bad luck with Dorman parts, every Dorman item I've ever gotten either didn't work or was seriously inferior in build and feel, so I just rather not even go there lol.
Jesse Crandle Dorman is garbage. Check out the south main auto channel, and you'll be surprised they lasted as long as they did. Problem is, dorman makes a lot of parts that are just too expensive at the dealer, but you're flipping a coin on quality. Also, it's likely cheaper for some people outside the States to rebuild certain components, rather than buy new/reman. Not gaining much rebuilding here, as you'll probably pay close to the same for a rebuilt unit from one of the big stores. Try amazon. Sometimes you can find manufacturers who use better rebuild materials. I know I can get Moog suspension parts for roughly the same price there, as Autozone wants here for their garbage ''valuecraft'' line.
I won't discuss the quality of the parts from that manufacturer, which is unknown to me. BUT I do say, why not get OEM parts for such important things like brakes? Honestly it doesn't make any sense to try to spare a few bucks in "aftermarket". Rebuild kits even OEM are cheap and at least the quality should be similar to the originally installed on the vehicle. Rebuilt several in the past, never lost brakes due to parts failure. In fact never lost brakes after any repair. One of the things not worth the risk at all. ;-) BTW Recommended OEM oil type is also very important to avoid compatibility issues.
Ingenious use of engine vacuum, but a dedicated turkey baster with a 3" clear plastic tube extension will do as well and faster. Just saying...but your way is pretty cool
Well that was an annoying video, the sudden jump back to the repair lol :-D :-D. You can trust that system now you have personally rebuilt it, you know that every part is fine. And everything was fitted very carefully :-D. I' feel the same about things i've repaired, it's knowing that it's right. That fluid looked horrible :-( and brake fluid being in love with water lol. Now the whole fluid is clean and no rubber or water is present, the brakes should be loverly :-D Oh super cute puppys :-D
Yes,quite boring to watch a slow repair,so i spiced it with those segments : ) The pedal is way way way more firm,and sits higher. It's all good ,i didn't expect that much : )
LOL i was joking, i like repairs and doggys :-D if dogs could repair cars.... that would be a ruff ruff life :) It just shows how poorly the master cylinder was doing it's job, it's operating like a new one now. :-D I havn't taken any car master cylinders apart, a couple of motorcycle ones yes, and because i didn't have a cup/seal repair kit, i was very very carefull, they were full of dead brake fluid/jelly.
I used the vacuum produced by the engine to empty the brake fluid reservoir : ) You can see a T fitting plugged on the ingnition advance vacuum hose on the right side.
@@michaelovitch i'm still a bit new to this, but where is the hose engine vacuum you tapped ? so that i can try it in my truck and mitsubishi L-300 when i try to bleed may brake line ?
@@GEMINIBD You may have a line or several around the throttle body if you have a gas engine,or ingnition module or simply the fuel pressure regulator. Depends of your engine. If not, don't bother with that ,just use a seringe,with a small hose attached to it,or a turkey baster. I just did that because it 's fun and convenient in my case.
Hello, thanks for the video, is 4 days working on this Cylinder, changed a gasket, all ok, it pumps on trying it on the vise with some oil putted in every holes, but i notice some problem only after mounted and when try to make the full bleeding, that the pump it doesn't reload... I mean, the liquid that comes from the tank enter on the rear of the piston, then the 4 little holes and the brass gasket i think they communicate and make passage to the fluid to the front of the piston. But this process doesn't happen to me until every like 10 minutes maybe some liquid flows. So 4 days i have the car there not working for this reason, tried many solutions, checked everything clean, and so now i don't know what to do, the brake fluid used a DOT4, now tried with DOT3 (that seems less viscous). But the fluid never reload, the tank fluid stays on the rear of the piston, and the fluid in front of the piston stays on the front of the piston, no exchange and so no pumping at all. Do you have any clue? Thanks a lot.
Hi, Are you sure all seals are not backwards,if a leap is backwards,it will not create suction. If all is installed corretly and if it's pumping on the vise normally ,and not pumping only when connected on the brake lines,that mean that you are not able to create suction of the fluid in the master cylinder, certainly because you push just air ,wich is compressible in the lines i guess. You can try to open the shorter brake line on the caliper side first,if you have a steering wheel on the left,open the driver side caliper bleeder. It's easier to bleed,the line is shorter. You can blow in the reservoir,and pump the pedal at the same time. You can also pull fluid with a little seringe and a small hose ,(aquarium transparent hoses,or vacuum hoses for engines) from the bleeder ,that you open a quart of turn or so. Keep the appropriate,recommended brake fluid,
acetone, but you need to let it evaporate before reinstalling the seals. It's not compatible ,and will damage them. some degrease and a good rinse and drying will do well,then brake fluid as lube for installation is the best : )
Check the brand frenkit ,they have an online catalogue,and they distribute in Europe and Canada. You can at least see the different components and the difference between ABS or standard master cylinders parts necessary.
If you want maximum fitness when you have to pump the pedal to bleed the system,yes. Otherwise,not the most important part,but you make them happy,and when they are happy,you are too,because they make you happy either. : )
My brake pedal feels like its got brakes when i first push them but then it releases near the floor and catches again. Do you think the master cylinder is bypassing?
As i know,you can't have a master cylinder wich bypasses. You just push fluid ,and this fluid can't come back unless you release the piston on the master cylinder. You move seals wich block orifices passed a certain point,so the fluid only goes on direction ,because it's trapped in the brake line and pushed by the seal upstream. However,you can compress air trapped in the brake line,if not purged correctly,or a bypass from the ABS block,wich is pretty rare,so i doubt it. You have more likely to purge the air from the brake lines.
@michaelovitch I'm thinking the mastercylinder has failed. I just don't understand why the pedal feels normal then drops down to the floor and grabs again.
I'm about to replace all rotors, pads and calipers soon and I'm gonna re bleed the system. It's sitting for a few years but the previous owner said it's done it for a long time. He just drives it around using ebrake cause he doesn't trust the pedal lol
@@michaelovitch 😁 putting the reservoir/cylinder seals in and fitting the reservoir. I just wanted a comparison to see if it is as awkward as the ones im trying to fit.
@@BettySwollocks13 Ok, I used some brake fluid as lubricant. Compare the new seals with the old ones,to see if they have the same shape,and dimensions. New seals will be tighter fit,that's normal. Check if they can be inserted like the old ones,same grooves,same shape. What is awkward on your set up ?
@@michaelovitch cheers, yeah, used lubricant but the original seals were in such bad condition i couldnt match them. I think they sent me the wrong ones as I don't think you're suppose to use a G clamp to get the reservoir to fit :D
@@BettySwollocks13 Yeah, Be sure they are not backwards, Sometimes they are a bit conical. In any case it's quite a tight fit,i had to struggle on different occasions,even maybe here i don't remember, so it's sure no air or brake fluid is leaking one way or the other. You can try to mount the seals on the reservoir without inserting them in the master cylinder to see if they fit normally or if they really sent you the wrong ones
Hi! Great video but I need some help. I'm trying to rebuild an ATE master cylinder off of a 1977 W123. I removed the circlip and the washer beneath but the piston won't come out?! Am I missing something? Thanks.
Hi, Thanks. I don't think you missed something,and to be sure you didn't i suggest you to see on a parts diagram or a parts catalog if something else could cause that. It's more likely corrosion,or some residue blocking it i think. You can try compressed air to blow it out,but look at a diagram first. maybe there : www.niemoeller.de/en
No one in the US does this...they just buy a new one....but I will rebuild my brake cyl. ....i have a 22 year old truck I use for playing around...and what parts they have are too expensive
People are brainwashed to replace anything as soon as possible. As long as the bore in not corroded,you can rebuild them for under 10 $. My car is a 30 years old renault 21 lol
i have some sort of a problem when i press the pedal a lil u can feel it braking but if i press it harder it losses the ability booster is good so may the master cylinder be the problem please help
A car spare parts website. Just look for the brand of your master cylinder,and get its internal diameter from a car parts seller inventory ,then look for a rebuild kit on the web. They ask the VIN number ,so you can't really make a mistake.
Just being old,no leaks. seals wear out ,by friction or simply degradatio of the material itself, over a long period of time. ça freine mieux,ne serait ce que du fait des joints neufs : ) donc oui,une fuite interne aussi : )
@@michaelovitch But I see the master house is different... So installing seal repair kits is also difficult... Master cylinder pugeot 307 matic is very different from other masters.. Do you have a video tutorial..?
@@michaelovitch I think the seal master cylinder is broken, so when the brakes are stepped slowly. Brake the pedals to the floor. I'm trying to open the piston. But there's only one seal. The other seal attached to the house piston... It's hard to open. I don't know how to open it... Doubts of fear broke. So if there is I need that tutorial.. Thank...
Dogs? really? waste of time. At least put in the title or a message on the video what timeframe to skip if you are not interested in seeing dogs get taken out. I'm trying to gain information on youtube on repairing a master cylinder, why would I be interested in wasting more time watching you take care of your dogs. Thumbs down.
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
Thanks.
Using engine vaccum to clean out the old fluid is genious. U even added a little valve. Really awesome.
: )
You just need to be sure the handbrake is on lol
This was a fantastic how to. I like the "no talk" and clear pictures!. Puppies are cool but I"m glad I was on a laptop at the time so that it was easy to skip.
this video was the first one which showed how to do it .. three days of searching and your video was like a breath of fresh air . / ray of sunshine ... well done you deserve a medal . My BOSCH master cylinder off my 2008 Citroen C5 was very similar to yours . the difference was a cross locking pin retaining the front seal assembly in place .
I'm happy it helped you : )
Thanks.
Loved how you syphoned the breakfluid with engine vacuum
: )
wanted to use this to fix my brake but I have no dog..oh well, will wait to adopt one
lol
excellent camera work
Thank you : )
Love how you did that with the vacuum line
lol
i think not a lot of peoples remarked it,or just said nothing about it : )
@@michaelovitch What kind of valve were you using? Nice idea :P
@@rkan2 It's to clamp hoses,in labs,mediacl industry etc...
WHAT IS IT WITH THE DOGS
LMAO
Fr what the fuck
Wil jij dat ze het in huis doen dan? Part of life bro
That warning slide is an immediate sub 😂
lol thanks
i didn't even remember i did that stuff
I'm not that retarded after all lol
The dogs? Why? No reason
why not? his video, he can do what he likes. you can skip it easily. it was a helpful video for me.
Leave the man alone
Excelente tutorial!! Una imagen dice más que 1000 palabras!! Felicidades, bellos perros!!
Gracias : )
Good helping video. i replaced 2 in a row but those were already repaired probably
Thanks
Very nice ! Have no brakes (all of the sudden) and looked at the res grommets and there is nothing there and she is leaking all over the booster . Having trouble locating these seals .
Thanks
What car is that ?
Thanks for sharing this video. We are manufacturing brake master cylinders for OEM. We recommend all end users to use the original equipments. Because all test are made under original equipment conditions. Even using a different oil may cause problems.
I know about oils ,and original equipment are not always avaible,this car is 29 years old.
The dog's fixed the master cylinder.🐕🤣
: )
Using the vacuum line to do that... So clever
Dogs, loud music, and no bleeding the master cylinder?... Nice weird French experimental movie.
Very good video and very well filmed ..thanks [south Africa]
Thanks : ) from France,next to Lyon.
I couldn't do this... I rebuilt two of my brake calipers and they failed about 2 years after the rebuild. I actually firmly believe this wasn't my fault... I find it hard to believe that they would have lasted about 40,000 miles if I had done something wrong, but it had to be 1) inferior rebuild components, or 2) my fault. No matter which one it is I just don't want to risk a failure on my master cylinder, I live in Florida and going from 80 to 20 in a couple seconds is a necessity if you're on the highway, so I just rather not risk it.
Also the rebuild kits I can find for the master cylinder are the same supplier as the caliper rebuild kit, so if it was a quality issue with the seals then it could reoccur with these kits I'm afraid. I'd like to note that they're DORMAN kits... I've had bad luck with Dorman parts, every Dorman item I've ever gotten either didn't work or was seriously inferior in build and feel, so I just rather not even go there lol.
Was the seals material compatible with your brake fluid ?
Jesse Crandle Dorman is garbage. Check out the south main auto channel, and you'll be surprised they lasted as long as they did. Problem is, dorman makes a lot of parts that are just too expensive at the dealer, but you're flipping a coin on quality. Also, it's likely cheaper for some people outside the States to rebuild certain components, rather than buy new/reman. Not gaining much rebuilding here, as you'll probably pay close to the same for a rebuilt unit from one of the big stores. Try amazon. Sometimes you can find manufacturers who use better rebuild materials. I know I can get Moog suspension parts for roughly the same price there, as Autozone wants here for their garbage ''valuecraft'' line.
I won't discuss the quality of the parts from that manufacturer, which is unknown to me. BUT I do say, why not get OEM parts for such important things like brakes? Honestly it doesn't make any sense to try to spare a few bucks in "aftermarket". Rebuild kits even OEM are cheap and at least the quality should be similar to the originally installed on the vehicle.
Rebuilt several in the past, never lost brakes due to parts failure. In fact never lost brakes after any repair.
One of the things not worth the risk at all. ;-)
BTW Recommended OEM oil type is also very important to avoid compatibility issues.
@@crpth1 Honda discontinued parts for my 1991 CRX. Aftermarket is all there is left.
Whats that dogs in between the important session
Good video same time in money 💰 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
: )
Ingenious use of engine vacuum, but a dedicated turkey baster with a 3" clear plastic tube extension will do as well and faster. Just saying...but your way is pretty cool
I don't even know where i can buy a turkey baster here lol
I just did what i could with what i had laying around : )
Thanks for this video, I need to do this. What were you using at 5:00 ?
It's acetone,to degrease metal ,before lubing with brake fluid only,the brake seals don't like other than brake fluid,otherwise they get damaged.
VERY well done video, thanks!
Thanks : )
Well that was an annoying video, the sudden jump back to the repair lol :-D :-D.
You can trust that system now you have personally rebuilt it, you know that every part is fine. And everything was fitted very carefully :-D.
I' feel the same about things i've repaired, it's knowing that it's right.
That fluid looked horrible :-( and brake fluid being in love with water lol.
Now the whole fluid is clean and no rubber or water is present,
the brakes should be loverly :-D
Oh super cute puppys :-D
Yes,quite boring to watch a slow repair,so i spiced it with those segments : )
The pedal is way way way more firm,and sits higher.
It's all good ,i didn't expect that much : )
LOL i was joking, i like repairs and doggys :-D
if dogs could repair cars.... that would be a ruff ruff life :)
It just shows how poorly the master cylinder was doing it's job, it's operating like a new one now. :-D
I havn't taken any car master cylinders apart, a couple of motorcycle ones yes, and because i didn't have a cup/seal repair kit, i was very very carefull, they were full of dead brake fluid/jelly.
If there is some small pits and edges in the cylinder, is honing an option? Or is it frowned upon?
Honing create a surface wich will not allow seals to seal properly.
It's better if you replace it,you don't take risks with brakes.
@@michaelovitch ok thank you for the reply
@@johanseidel1860 : )
nice vacuum trick, i think the vacuum you used is a small version not the house vacuum cleaner.
I used the vacuum produced by the engine to empty the brake fluid reservoir : )
You can see a T fitting plugged on the ingnition advance vacuum hose on the right side.
@@michaelovitch i'm still a bit new to this, but where is the hose engine vacuum you tapped ? so that i can try it in my truck and mitsubishi L-300 when i try to bleed may brake line ?
@@GEMINIBD
You may have a line or several around the throttle body if you have a gas engine,or ingnition module or simply the fuel pressure regulator.
Depends of your engine.
If not, don't bother with that ,just use a seringe,with a small hose attached to it,or a turkey baster.
I just did that because it 's fun and convenient in my case.
Man you have good and open access. Not so on my car
Started out ok but I already know how to haul dogs.
Hello, thanks for the video, is 4 days working on this Cylinder, changed a gasket, all ok, it pumps on trying it on the vise with some oil putted in every holes, but i notice some problem only after mounted and when try to make the full bleeding, that the pump it doesn't reload... I mean, the liquid that comes from the tank enter on the rear of the piston, then the 4 little holes and the brass gasket i think they communicate and make passage to the fluid to the front of the piston. But this process doesn't happen to me until every like 10 minutes maybe some liquid flows. So 4 days i have the car there not working for this reason, tried many solutions, checked everything clean, and so now i don't know what to do, the brake fluid used a DOT4, now tried with DOT3 (that seems less viscous). But the fluid never reload, the tank fluid stays on the rear of the piston, and the fluid in front of the piston stays on the front of the piston, no exchange and so no pumping at all. Do you have any clue? Thanks a lot.
Hi,
Are you sure all seals are not backwards,if a leap is backwards,it will not create suction.
If all is installed corretly and if it's pumping on the vise normally ,and not pumping only when connected on the brake lines,that mean that you are not able to create suction of the fluid in the master cylinder, certainly because you push just air ,wich is compressible in the lines i guess.
You can try to open the shorter brake line on the caliper side first,if you have a steering wheel on the left,open the driver side caliper bleeder.
It's easier to bleed,the line is shorter.
You can blow in the reservoir,and pump the pedal at the same time.
You can also pull fluid with a little seringe and a small hose ,(aquarium transparent hoses,or vacuum hoses for engines) from the bleeder ,that you open a quart of turn or so.
Keep the appropriate,recommended brake fluid,
hi, what was that fluid u used to clean the inside of the cylinder? brake cleaner or just brake fluid? cheers
acetone, but you need to let it evaporate before reinstalling the seals.
It's not compatible ,and will damage them.
some degrease and a good rinse and drying will do well,then brake fluid as lube for installation is the best : )
Thank you sir 🌹🌹
: )
Can you do one of your 240? Mine has ABS and I've been looking around and can only find the non ABS rebuild kit for cheap.
Check the brand frenkit ,they have an online catalogue,and they distribute in Europe and Canada.
You can at least see the different components and the difference between ABS or standard master cylinders parts necessary.
Volvo 240 Wagon for the win!
: )
is exersizing dogs the most important part of procedure?
If you want maximum fitness when you have to pump the pedal to bleed the system,yes.
Otherwise,not the most important part,but you make them happy,and when they are happy,you are too,because they make you happy either.
: )
Couldn't you hone out the cylinder if the pitting wasn't too bad?
You could.
A new master cylinder is what $30 or Euro 26? Should come with a warranty too.
An average of 55 euros online for a good brand,and up to twice that easily.
Now I know how each seals go ( the way side ) that’s a lot
The lip on the seal fight against the fluid so it spreads out and seal even more : )
Like this : < fluid
My brake pedal feels like its got brakes when i first push them but then it releases near the floor and catches again. Do you think the master cylinder is bypassing?
As i know,you can't have a master cylinder wich bypasses.
You just push fluid ,and this fluid can't come back unless you release the piston on the master cylinder.
You move seals wich block orifices passed a certain point,so the fluid only goes on direction ,because it's trapped in the brake line and pushed by the seal upstream.
However,you can compress air trapped in the brake line,if not purged correctly,or a bypass from the ABS block,wich is pretty rare,so i doubt it.
You have more likely to purge the air from the brake lines.
@michaelovitch I'm thinking the mastercylinder has failed. I just don't understand why the pedal feels normal then drops down to the floor and grabs again.
@@joshestess
Does the pedal goes to the floor ,then you let it come back,and it grabs again or it's soft on its half stroke,then become hard again ?
@michaelovitch when you first push the pedal it feels like its gonna brake normal then it releases and it feels free then grabs again near the floor.
I'm about to replace all rotors, pads and calipers soon and I'm gonna re bleed the system. It's sitting for a few years but the previous owner said it's done it for a long time. He just drives it around using ebrake cause he doesn't trust the pedal lol
Got it, the dogs are also on a brake eehh breake.....
The only thing missing in this guys life is a girlfriend,those dogs almost finished my data
What do you mean ?
The only 2 bits I wanted to see and you edited them out!! aaaargh!
Wich bits ?
tell me.
@@michaelovitch 😁 putting the reservoir/cylinder seals in and fitting the reservoir. I just wanted a comparison to see if it is as awkward as the ones im trying to fit.
@@BettySwollocks13
Ok,
I used some brake fluid as lubricant.
Compare the new seals with the old ones,to see if they have the same shape,and dimensions.
New seals will be tighter fit,that's normal.
Check if they can be inserted like the old ones,same grooves,same shape.
What is awkward on your set up ?
@@michaelovitch cheers, yeah, used lubricant but the original seals were in such bad condition i couldnt match them. I think they sent me the wrong ones as I don't think you're suppose to use a G clamp to get the reservoir to fit :D
@@BettySwollocks13
Yeah,
Be sure they are not backwards,
Sometimes they are a bit conical.
In any case it's quite a tight fit,i had to struggle on different occasions,even maybe here i don't remember, so it's sure no air or brake fluid is leaking one way or the other.
You can try to mount the seals on the reservoir without inserting them in the master cylinder to see if they fit normally or if they really sent you the wrong ones
Very useful tutorial
: )
Hi! Great video but I need some help. I'm trying to rebuild an ATE master cylinder off of a 1977 W123. I removed the circlip and the washer beneath but the piston won't come out?! Am I missing something? Thanks.
Hi,
Thanks.
I don't think you missed something,and to be sure you didn't i suggest you to see on a parts diagram or a parts catalog if something else could cause that.
It's more likely corrosion,or some residue blocking it i think.
You can try compressed air to blow it out,but look at a diagram first.
maybe there : www.niemoeller.de/en
What no gloves?
Verry good , thanks
: )
Is there a video included to get the fleas off of dog balls?
NO dogs
This brake fluid is not old, two years.. 😂 😂 It's manky. It should be completely changed every two years
No one in the US does this...they just buy a new one....but I will rebuild my brake cyl. ....i have a 22 year old truck I use for playing around...and what parts they have are too expensive
People are brainwashed to replace anything as soon as possible.
As long as the bore in not corroded,you can rebuild them for under 10 $.
My car is a 30 years old renault 21 lol
i have some sort of a problem when i press the pedal a lil u can feel it braking but if i press it harder it losses the ability booster is good so may the master cylinder be the problem please help
Check the fluid level,it must be to the "max level" with pedal released.
You can bleed the brakes to be sure air is not rapped in the line.
Random dog scene.... approved.
: )
If you can explain each and every components name and its function it sounde more perfect..any way thanks I have learn how it rebuilds
Thank you : )
I understand,and i will try to have something more complete.
Where did you get your parts to do a rebuild?
A car spare parts website.
Just look for the brand of your master cylinder,and get its internal diameter from a car parts seller inventory ,then look for a rebuild kit on the web.
They ask the VIN number ,so you can't really make a mistake.
I love doooogggsssss ^.^ I have a labrador.
: )
I have black lab too, its crasy dog, he want to eat and nothing Else, my lab Will sell me for a piece of some old bred :(
lol
Super vidéo 12:32 c'est chiant les gros doigts? mdr merci à toi
Merci : )
Une horreur ces doigts !
On peut pas faire grand chose avec lol
V8 powered brake bleeder.
The engine will run like a peeled potato. 50 years in america.....never heard that one. Don't even know what that means.
I would have preferred that the dogs and repair be in seperate videos. Otherwise, thanks for the upload.
We’re can l order the kit rep
Auto stores,or online.
Search for "master cylinder rebuild kit" for your specific model.
link shop cylinder rebuild ...?
I don't understand.
What was the symptoms? Master cylinder leaking in brakes booster?
Just being old,no leaks.
seals wear out ,by friction or simply degradatio of the material itself, over a long period of time.
ça freine mieux,ne serait ce que du fait des joints neufs : ) donc oui,une fuite interne aussi : )
what do you mean showing your dogs???
I don't have boobs to show on videos ,so i do what i can with what i have.
: )
Good. Thank you.
Show me..
How rebuild brake master cylinder peugeot 307 matic hb
About the same for all master cylinders.
You need a kit with all the seals in it.
@@michaelovitch But I see the master house is different... So installing seal repair kits is also difficult... Master cylinder pugeot 307 matic is very different from other masters.. Do you have a video tutorial..?
@@sudiono7380
No i don't have a tutorial.
Wha is the problem with your 307 ?
@@michaelovitch I think the seal master cylinder is broken, so when the brakes are stepped slowly. Brake the pedals to the floor. I'm trying to open the piston. But there's only one seal. The other seal attached to the house piston... It's hard to open. I don't know how to open it... Doubts of fear broke. So if there is I need that tutorial.. Thank...
@@sudiono7380
What is your car ? year /engine/ model
What do dogs have to do with car d.i.y??🙄🙄
scorpio vlx ka break booster repair
Does NO ONE own a funnel? 😄
No one haha
Funnels are not fun.
What the hell is it with the dogs if you want.ppl to like and share videos then fo it right
Training for dogs? Annoying intermittenly. , be serious.
Dogs? really? waste of time. At least put in the title or a message on the video what timeframe to skip if you are not interested in seeing dogs get taken out. I'm trying to gain information on youtube on repairing a master cylinder, why would I be interested in wasting more time watching you take care of your dogs. Thumbs down.
no-one is forcing you to watch it? how much did you pay to watch this video of a complete master cylinder strip down and reassembly? calm down
Oh my G_d!!!! more dogs farther in? what an effin waste of time
جيد شكرا
: )
Thanks !
Waw
Just want to see repair not your dogs
You ruined a great demo video with the dogs, WHY ? ?
وئير نقزتني
I can't translate correctly and understand.
I dislike because of dog
At least ,you explain why.
Thanks.