I Stumbled onto your video about reverse bleeding the brakes when i was looking for a solution to my uncles clutch not disengaging issue.. I've now watched several of your maintenance vids and although i don't personally have a KTM, Your instructions, and descriptions are very helpful and very well described, watching them has made maintenance concerns seem less daunting.. Thank you. Still trying to work out the issue with my uncles KTM though, running out of ideas.
What bike is it that you're working on? A first check to make is that the clutch lever is adjusted correctly. If position is adjusted too far in (close to the bars) it may prevent full disengagement. If an after market level has been fitted try using a stock lever. If there's air in the system it will often cause disengaging issues. Try bleeding the system fully. A leaking seal in the clutch slave, or master would also cause disengaging problems.
@@TokyoOffroad I’m currently doing the whole clutch and ordered all the bits but didn’t realise this o ring didn’t come with it. Added onto the order this morning, so much appreciated!! Clutch has been replaced about 40 hrs ago but not properly, it would seem. So now doing it myself with the help of your video’s. Top man - keep them coming! Merry Christmas!
I have a 2015 Husky FE250, so slight differences, but is that rubber diaphragm part avaliable separately, because all i can find is it coming woth a piston replacement kit😯🙁
Thank you for this! I think that I'm gonna need the things learnt here sooner than later. In my case I find it very hard to switch the bike to neutral while the engine is running (clutch lever squeezed, of course). It also does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. Otherwise everything seems to run fine. Do you think it might have to do with what you have presenred here? Could it be that it would only need a bleeding as air might have got in? Thank you!
The transmission in these off-road bikes is designed to not be easy easy to put into neutral while the engine is running. Personally I typically don't put it into neutral while I'm out riding, I just stall it in gear and then start it again in gear with the clutch pulled in. It should be relatively easy to put in to neutral when the engine is not running. I the clutch has air in it you'll find you'll need to pull the lever to the bars to disengage the clutch and the bike will jump forwards and drag when put into gear.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you! I had no idea that this was "by design" and just thought that my bike (2018 EXC TPI) has an issue. It is easy to put it in neutral wheb the engine is stopped. 🧡
Not 100% sure I agree with this, I have 3 dirtbikes, 2 of them shift into neutral just fine if you are used to riding, However, my newest bike, a 2016 Husqvarna FC250, is near impossible to find neutral while the engine is running, but will go into neutral just fine when the bike is not running. Also with the engine running, when you shift to first, you can feel the bike jolt forward about an inch, sometimes causing a stall, with the clutch pulled tight to the handlebar. I have bled my clutch cable twice, it helped some, but the problem is still there. Next I think I’ll check the slave cylinder, possibly the master cylinder, and if I have to, I’ll check the clutch pack. I have read some posts from others saying that these behaviors are normal for KTM, and Husqvarna, because of the wet clutch, but idk, doesn’t seem normal to me. Anyone else have some input on this?
Do you have any experience with 9mm clutch master cylinders by any chance? I recently fitted one to my bike and it created really bad clutch drag to the point that even with the lever pulled all the way into the bar, the clutch wasn’t fully disengaged. Also the bike would take off if I tried to start the bike in gear. I can’t say for certain that all the air was bled out of the system however. I reverse bled it a few times and back bled, but tiny bubbles were still appearing when flicking the lever and they just didn’t seem to stop appearing. All the connections were tight and no fluid leaking out of them. Any input from you would be appreciated!
Personally I haven't used a 9mm clutch master, but have considered it. Lots of people like them as it reduces the effort required to actuate the clutch lever and helps reduce fatigue on a long ride. I think you probably still have some air trapped somewhere. Reverse bleeding usually works very well, but sometimes, particularly if it's a new system which is being filled with fluid for the first time it is possible to get some air trapped in the clutch slave. After reverse bleeding try pulling in the clutch lever to the bar and open the bleeder at the slave until a little fluid comes out (you can put some hose on the bleeder nipple to reduce mess). Doing this will bleed trapped air from the slave. Repeat this about 3 times and check to see if the clutch engagement is improved.
Great vid! Did I hear you say dirt instead of day-bre? Lol. Now if we can teach you how to say aluminum and spell tire correctly we'll be golden. Hahaha. Enjoy your vids brother.....I'm from South Carolina us, I can teach you proper engrish. Lol.
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Yes! Good to have your repair/tutorials back. Always appreciated and used. Cheers.
I Stumbled onto your video about reverse bleeding the brakes when i was looking for a solution to my uncles clutch not disengaging issue.. I've now watched several of your maintenance vids and although i don't personally have a KTM, Your instructions, and descriptions are very helpful and very well described, watching them has made maintenance concerns seem less daunting.. Thank you. Still trying to work out the issue with my uncles KTM though, running out of ideas.
What bike is it that you're working on? A first check to make is that the clutch lever is adjusted correctly. If position is adjusted too far in (close to the bars) it may prevent full disengagement. If an after market level has been fitted try using a stock lever. If there's air in the system it will often cause disengaging issues. Try bleeding the system fully. A leaking seal in the clutch slave, or master would also cause disengaging problems.
Great video. BTW Magura at least since 2017 is also on DOT fluid.
Thanks. How to vids are always very good. Again thanks
Great video, Many thanks for the help with the parts numbers 🙂
As always - great advise.
Thank you.
Great information as always!
Cheers
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
@@TokyoOffroad
I’m currently doing the whole clutch and ordered all the bits but didn’t realise this o ring didn’t come with it. Added onto the order this morning, so much appreciated!!
Clutch has been replaced about 40 hrs ago but not properly, it would seem. So now doing it myself with the help of your video’s. Top man - keep them coming!
Merry Christmas!
just replaced magura with the rekluse billet slave which has 2 oring.. much better design. one oring is to seal dot fluid and the other oil.
wow! thanks a lot!
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
I have a 2015 Husky FE250, so slight differences, but is that rubber diaphragm part avaliable separately, because all i can find is it coming woth a piston replacement kit😯🙁
3:43 that piston rubber what's the name? do you have the size ? I want to change it
Thank you for this! I think that I'm gonna need the things learnt here sooner than later. In my case I find it very hard to switch the bike to neutral while the engine is running (clutch lever squeezed, of course). It also does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. Otherwise everything seems to run fine. Do you think it might have to do with what you have presenred here? Could it be that it would only need a bleeding as air might have got in? Thank you!
The transmission in these off-road bikes is designed to not be easy easy to put into neutral while the engine is running. Personally I typically don't put it into neutral while I'm out riding, I just stall it in gear and then start it again in gear with the clutch pulled in. It should be relatively easy to put in to neutral when the engine is not running. I the clutch has air in it you'll find you'll need to pull the lever to the bars to disengage the clutch and the bike will jump forwards and drag when put into gear.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you! I had no idea that this was "by design" and just thought that my bike (2018 EXC TPI) has an issue. It is easy to put it in neutral wheb the engine is stopped. 🧡
Not 100% sure I agree with this, I have 3 dirtbikes, 2 of them shift into neutral just fine if you are used to riding, However, my newest bike, a 2016 Husqvarna FC250, is near impossible to find neutral while the engine is running, but will go into neutral just fine when the bike is not running. Also with the engine running, when you shift to first, you can feel the bike jolt forward about an inch, sometimes causing a stall, with the clutch pulled tight to the handlebar. I have bled my clutch cable twice, it helped some, but the problem is still there. Next I think I’ll check the slave cylinder, possibly the master cylinder, and if I have to, I’ll check the clutch pack. I have read some posts from others saying that these behaviors are normal for KTM, and Husqvarna, because of the wet clutch, but idk, doesn’t seem normal to me. Anyone else have some input on this?
Do you have any experience with 9mm clutch master cylinders by any chance? I recently fitted one to my bike and it created really bad clutch drag to the point that even with the lever pulled all the way into the bar, the clutch wasn’t fully disengaged. Also the bike would take off if I tried to start the bike in gear. I can’t say for certain that all the air was bled out of the system however. I reverse bled it a few times and back bled, but tiny bubbles were still appearing when flicking the lever and they just didn’t seem to stop appearing. All the connections were tight and no fluid leaking out of them. Any input from you would be appreciated!
Personally I haven't used a 9mm clutch master, but have considered it. Lots of people like them as it reduces the effort required to actuate the clutch lever and helps reduce fatigue on a long ride. I think you probably still have some air trapped somewhere. Reverse bleeding usually works very well, but sometimes, particularly if it's a new system which is being filled with fluid for the first time it is possible to get some air trapped in the clutch slave. After reverse bleeding try pulling in the clutch lever to the bar and open the bleeder at the slave until a little fluid comes out (you can put some hose on the bleeder nipple to reduce mess). Doing this will bleed trapped air from the slave. Repeat this about 3 times and check to see if the clutch engagement is improved.
@@TokyoOffroad Had a second attempt at fitting it today. All works perfectly fine now. The clutch is now biting when it should be. Thanks!
@@rupton6 - Great! Pleased to hear that it's working correctly now...
Great vid! Did I hear you say dirt instead of day-bre? Lol. Now if we can teach you how to say aluminum and spell tire correctly we'll be golden. Hahaha. Enjoy your vids brother.....I'm from South Carolina us, I can teach you proper engrish. Lol.
im also from south carolina and have no idea what this man was saying 😂😂😂😂