#38 - DRO - Machining Arcs/Radius's - Part 1 Using the DRO to machine an Arc and also how to accurately drill holes around a circle. For example a Steam Engine cylinder head or som type of round flange fitting
G’day Kevin. I gather after each cut the DRO setting is advanced to the next position and the cutter moved to that position bringing the display back to zeros also taking care to move forward in the correct plane first. Small job then to file it smooth. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Peter
That's a very lively edgefinder! :) PS: Great video Kevin, and a good reminder for me, I really have to get my DRO sorted soon. It'll make such a difference, especially because I want to work in metric and my mill has imperial dials. Cheers, Craig
G'Day Kevin, these DRO's make things so much easier. Over the years they have added in these extra nice features or as I like to call them bells and whistles. I've never used the radius function but I know its there if I need it. Cam
I agree Cam. When it comes to radius's I just use the rotary table. Its good to show people what functions DRO's have. Especially new comers who may not be able to afford a rotary table when they are getting started in machining. Cheers Kevin
Hi I follow you for a while watched most of your videos very impressive is it possible to make a video how to use the DRO from A to Z slowly like you’re teaching a 4-year-old child nobody on TH-cam seems to have one everybody have very little about it but nothing in detail thanks.
Thanks for this. I have a 178mm radius over 180 degrees ie a semi circle to cut. I think I need to cut it as two 90 degree corners. To rough it out can I use the simple function at radius of say 180mm with a ripper and then go back and recut the final radius with a finishing end-mill taking account of any cutter diameter change?
I have this exact DRO and am having difficulty doing what you are showing. Unfortunately you did not answer my questions that I have in trying to under stand how to do the inputs. You chose type 4 for the type of cut whereas It looks to me like it should have been a type 8 based on the corner of the piece you were milling. Plus, my book shows a type 4 moving in a counterclockwise direction from the initial tool position. You were moving in a clockwise direction from the first cut. That is based on the symbols on the front of the display on the left side of the DRO screen. Can you please clarify why you chose type 4? The other question is about the R+Tool setting. How did you ever determine that a "+" sign meant outside cut versus "-" sign meant inside cut? My book doesn't even mention the R+Tool setting so I though it meant the tool diameter plus the Radius of the cut, which I found out was wrong by watching this video.
I have exactly the same confusing scenario with my Sino SDS6-2V DRO. I've just done a dummy test run through on an arc running clockwise from 12 o'clock and ending at 9o'clock. The diagram on the panel suggests I should select a number 8 arc. Ended up using a number 4 sequence. It is all are about face. I think a much better option is to purchase one of the latest LCD readout panels from Banggood as they are far more intuitive to use. Myford boy's channel has one on test and it looks very good in use. They seem to cost around £80 quid for a 3 axis readout.
Hi Thanks for the great video - just one question at what point do you manually find the start point/ center (approx 5.08 in the video) Is this before programming the console or after ? Cheers
Thank you so much. Just installed my first DRO on the lathe and I have no idea on to how to use it. I’m sure this video is going to be very helpful.
Thanks for watching....
Thank you so much for the demonstration. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Hi Bruce, no worries....
What was the DRO showing during this operation to guide the operator?
G’day Kevin. I gather after each cut the DRO setting is advanced to the next position and the cutter moved to that position bringing the display back to zeros also taking care to move forward in the correct plane first. Small job then to file it smooth.
Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Peter
However.....for someone who is not familiar with dros.....it would have been nice to show what was being done on the dro for each move?????
very neat, a DRO is on my wish list
Thanks for watching
Is this done by a manual milling
That's a very lively edgefinder! :) PS: Great video Kevin, and a good reminder for me, I really have to get my DRO sorted soon. It'll make such a difference, especially because I want to work in metric and my mill has imperial dials. Cheers, Craig
Hi Craig, Wrong gear/speed for the edge finder....lol
@@Machine_NZ Ah, that explains it. Thanks
Really good video I learned something valuable thank you very much. Now I must practice
Hi troy. Thanks for watching. Glad you learnt something from the video. Regards kevin
@@Machine_NZ keep up the great work👍
G'Day Kevin, these DRO's make things so much easier. Over the years they have added in these extra nice features or as I like to call them bells and whistles. I've never used the radius function but I know its there if I need it.
Cam
I agree Cam. When it comes to radius's I just use the rotary table.
Its good to show people what functions DRO's have. Especially new comers who may not be able to afford a rotary table when they are getting started in machining.
Cheers Kevin
Mmmmm
Hi I follow you for a while watched most of your videos very impressive is it possible to make a video how to use the DRO from A to Z slowly like you’re teaching a 4-year-old child nobody on TH-cam seems to have one everybody have very little about it but nothing in detail thanks.
Thanks for this. I have a 178mm radius over 180 degrees ie a semi circle to cut. I think I need to cut it as two 90 degree corners. To rough it out can I use the simple function at radius of say 180mm with a ripper and then go back and recut the final radius with a finishing end-mill taking account of any cutter diameter change?
Probably be easier to just use the circular pocket feature and cut the air for half the program.
I have this exact DRO and am having difficulty doing what you are showing. Unfortunately you did not answer my questions that I have in trying to under stand how to do the inputs. You chose type 4 for the type of cut whereas It looks to me like it should have been a type 8 based on the corner of the piece you were milling. Plus, my book shows a type 4 moving in a counterclockwise direction from the initial tool position. You were moving in a clockwise direction from the first cut. That is based on the symbols on the front of the display on the left side of the DRO screen. Can you please clarify why you chose type 4? The other question is about the R+Tool setting. How did you ever determine that a "+" sign meant outside cut versus "-" sign meant inside cut? My book doesn't even mention the R+Tool setting so I though it meant the tool diameter plus the Radius of the cut, which I found out was wrong by watching this video.
I have exactly the same confusing scenario with my Sino SDS6-2V DRO. I've just done a dummy test run through on an arc running clockwise from 12 o'clock and ending at 9o'clock. The diagram on the panel suggests I should select a number 8 arc. Ended up using a number 4 sequence. It is all are about face. I think a much better option is to purchase one of the latest LCD readout panels from Banggood as they are far more intuitive to use. Myford boy's channel has one on test and it looks very good in use. They seem to cost around £80 quid for a 3 axis readout.
Hi Thanks for the great video - just one question at what point do you manually find the start point/ center (approx 5.08 in the video) Is this before programming the console or after ? Cheers
Hi, we use a edge finder to find the edges and set the DRO to suit.
The rotary table will solve this Headache quickly
It it will but that wasn't the focus of this video. Thanks for watching
Assuming the cutter is progressing in a clockwise direction, the cut is climbing, which might not be the best way to carry our this function.