$50 Tool, Destroyed! - Installing a DRO on a Small Lathe
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Today we're installing a DRO Pros EL400 magnetic DRO kit on the Grizzly G0602 benchtop lathe. Installing a DRO on a small lathe can be very challenging, but I have an elegant solution that I think is going to work. It will require machining the saddle and apron and modifying the scales, but it should be well worth it in the end.
And it had better be, because in the process, I had an accident and destroyed a $50 end mill. By being dumb.
This is the DRO Pros EL400 kit I'm using:
DRO Pros 2-Axis Lathe Kit: www.dropros.com/Electronica_L...
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
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Shars 0-6" .0001" micrometer set (eBay*): ebay.to/3sxGRqK
NSK Emax Evolution Standard with Lever Handpiece (*eBay): ebay.us/IqNh4t
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NogaFlex Indicator Holder with Fine Adjust (Amazon*): amzn.to/33FwerY
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
00:53 The Plan
04:00 Disassembling the Lathe
06:29 Fixturing the Saddle in the Mill
07:23 Machining the Saddle
10:13 Machining the Apron
12:41 Drilling and Tapping the Cross Slide
14:18 Mystery Operations
15:46 Squaring the X Bracket Stock
17:11 Machining the X Bracket
20:41 Deep Slotting
21:59 Hogging out the Final Shape
24:35 Hypnotic Deburring Footage
25:30 Wrap
dro install how to fit a dro digital readout digital read out
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dropping an endmill like that is incredibly stupid. Id never do that. Twice. Or three times. Ive heard rumor a 2 flute 1/4 carbide mill will break right half in two if dropped from mill table height to the concrete floor.
If u don’t drop it in your foot you just aren’t trying
Cutting forces cause collets to loosen up like a shell mill breaking the taper sometimes. Or the collet could have been over clamped deforming it from the intended size. I doubt he clamped undersize round bending it into a bell and only clamping the very tip of the collet vs manufacturing precision causing a similar condition.
🤣🤣🤣
Who cares? I've destroyed Walter Titex carbide drills that go for 120$ per pop in drill presses at work trying to put a hole in random tooling for various reasons. No one cared, accidents happen and you just move on.
@@OB1canblowme humor and sarcasm isn’t for everyone. 🤷♂️
With no disrespect I absolutely love the home style shop videos you make. It really gives to the learning style that i love so much about machining. Your channel is basically what I want to be as a home machinist in the future. I LOVE the content
Thanks! I try to make the videos I would want to watch, and it's encouraging to hear from other people who enjoy them.
Hi James. I came back to your channel after a long absence. It's not the engineering that fascinates me - it's how you lost a ton of weight and managed to keep it off, long term (the hardest thing). Congratulations from a fellow dieter who didn't succeed (this time, like you did). Regards.
I think I saw Blondiehacks lift a wine glass to that killer set up you made! Thanks for another great video.
Hi James,
I had the same issue with my Myford Super 7 lathe. Managed to install the X axis magnetic reader under the cross slide with the reader set into a machined pocket in the saddle. Works a treat and totally hidden so no loss of saddle range.
Andy UK
Hi James, the same thing happened to me with my first carbide mill. without having used it yet, minutes before I inspected it to see how it was, incredible the damage caused by the small fall.
Now I put plastic caps on them when I handle them.
From Argentina I greet you and we are here because your channel and your honesty in showing your own learning invites us to follow you.
My second hand mill came with a Kurt Power Drawbar. Your not likely to drop any tools with it. I didn’t realize how slick they were until I had one. Great videos, thanks for sharing.
Yeah, it's on my list. :)
The only thing worse than a razor sharp carbide end mill falling out of a collet is having it slide across your hand when it drops.
You have not gotten cut clamping or unclamping a work piece by grazing the spindle's tool? Oh man, you haven't lived. Cuts wicked fast and deep!!
@@mordantly I've done that too many times also.
The #1 way I can think to describe what I like / love about this channel is that you are a *class act*. The presentation as well as the work itself is done to such a high standard from start to finish, top to bottom. Its simply aspirational to watch, and I mean that in the most general way, as though you're setting an example for living, not only machining.
James, just heard your name mentioned by Clark on the Windy Hill Foundry channel. Sounds like you and Clark will be collaborating on a project soon. How cool. Can't wait to see it.
James, your video descriptions are the most comprehensive out of all the channels I’ve seen. Amazing work.
Another fun project, James. I'm still lurking around watching your content because I've dabbled with electronics, 3D printing, 3D modeling & have a 14" Sieg Mini Lathe that I'm in the middle of (7 yrs, so far) adding a DIY Touch DRO to. I'll be posting a video soon showing how I added the long z-axis scale with custom chip guard to the back of the lathe. Stan's idea of mounting the scale horizontally, screwing M3 bolts through the thin metal really got me wondering if I could do the same with my cross slide. I'd have to rethink my existing cross slide locking mechanism to make room. My scale's read head completely surrounds the scale bar & I wonder if I could lose the back half & cut down the remaining plastic to allow it to fit better. Wouldn't have thought of that had you not shown it first. Thanks! :) Looking forward to the next episode.
It's worth looking. I was surprised that this installation left my carriage lock accessible.
That is one hell-of-a setup for the saddle. My god.
Definitely been there, dropped a 500+$ (thankfully well used) 3/4 carbide.
Broke right in half where the flutes started.
Fun fun
I’m actually doing a DRO install on the 0752. And I’m using optical scales, the way I’m dealing with the gib adjustment is by just moving the gib to the other side (headstock side) and drilling new gib adjust screws on the other side. And I’ll just throw some set screws in the old holes to plug them.
Note: Those who receive the ToAuto DRO Screen with two buttons that are labeled differently. The CA button is the same as the AC button and the INV button is the same as the ARC button. As of March 2024 the Operation Manual has not been updated to show this.
You weren't joking about the rotary tool being pricey. YEEEOWZA!!!
Why I'm still here, hmmm.... you are lucky I'm not your next door neighbor 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Great stuff as usual, THANKS !
I’m still here cause I like your project and I pick up info keel up the good videos
You are totally awesome. I love the Fusion Design, 3D printing, casting, cnc machining - Awesome. I really like how you talk through the decision/engineering proicess. Keep 'em coming James!
I have done this exact thing a number of times, along with breaking corners, wearing tools etc. My recommendation is to start a resharpen pile alongside the scrap pile, you can send them to be sharpened (and sometimes recoated) for much less than replacement, and a good grinder will give you the final dimension the tool was ground to so there isn't any guessing and checking when using the tool next.
May I ask where you send them to be resharpened or re-coated?
Your idea for the bump stop screw in the read head bracket is great.
NSK, huh? If you get the cash… 😂😂😂 you deserve it brother! You get my subscription and even your own playlist in my library! Thank you!
I always enjoy your videos, you are a fabulous teacher and are widely respected.
Hi James! I like your videos so don’t worry! I am proud of you for continuing to work after you made a mistake! I made one and I corrected it and all was well after! Take care!
great video as always. while i am sorry for you loss (endmill) i am glad i am not the only ones that drops tools.. I'm still looking for video where someone drops a micrometer on a concrete floor so i can not be alone.....
Oooh... I dropped an 8" digital caliper last week. I had to stone the jaws and straighten the depth rod, but I think it's okay.
this should be of great help in mounting a DRO on my small lathe. awesome ideas, thanx!
I’ve been trying to decide on the same problem X mounting location, so this video is much to my liking.
Look forward to the outcome of this project. And fast forward to the 4 holes you drilled and tapped on the cross slide, I assume you’re going to
make a more rigid mount for the compound, also something I need to do as well. Right now I’m using a solid tool post, but I want my compound option too. Thanks Mr. James.🔥🔥
You made me feel better about my "delayed" project. Thanks for the video. On my G0768 (an 8" lathe), I ended up using a magnetic strip and a read head on the cross slide. It works well and even with chips, the reading has been very accurate. It wasn't cheap but there wasn't any other way that didn't get in the way of other things like my traveling rest. BTW, it looks like you are planning on a solid tool post on your cross feed; you will love it. Made a world of difference.
Dear James,
I've been fiddling with the idea for my very small VM210 lathe, I have the scales but I hadn't the mill yet to do a reasonably clean job (only a converted drill-press with DRO which is at best 'soft/limp' and clearly 'chatty') ...
I'm to receive my 'true' mill tomorrow so that video is very timely.
Many thanks for your inspiration (not the least being the ELS with integrated servo)
I'm not sure what you intend to do with the holes on the cross-slide, but with a solid post, it might be a good idea to link the X reading to the phase/position of the main leadscrew, adding an offset to make an "electronic 30° (or whatever thread angle) virtual compound movement".
Very best regards,
Jean
I got one of those Noga deburring sets... I'm in Aus, so postage was basically extortion, it doubled the cost of the toolset.
It was STILL worth every cent. So glad I got it ❤
Been wanting to outfit my old Craftsman 12" lathe with a DRO, but struggling with mounting. I did my Lagun mill, so once I learn a way to do it, I think I can. This was excellent.
I now put shop cloths under the tool when removing it, learned the hard way! I do have a tool & cutter grinder so can get them "almost" back to new.
Great discussion/build
I learn alot that's why I watch every week. Can't wait for the next one!
Thanks James, this is very pertinent content for me. 👍
James. I am enjoying your channel. Your planning for different projects, the process and the professional outcome tells me you're having way too much fun in your shop. HAHAHA Thanks for sharing.
What a great project. I like the way you are mounting the scale. It should be accurate and reliable.
We’ve all dropped bits from collets. I ended up taking a plastic bottom from a Halva container, about 6” by 4” by about 1.5” deep, putting a rubber piece in the bottom and putting it under the bit. It helps for these times I forget. Though, now that I have that, I don’t seem to forget. Amazing how that happens.
I put a three channel DRO on my South Bend FOURTEEN (finally!) three years ago. It was a pain as the cross feed isn’t straight, the follow rest screws in on that right side, and I didn’t want to lose closeup with the tailstock. The fact that it has a taper attachment, didn’t help. That was a major task. I also put the third channel on the tailstock rather than using a caliper, which I really don’t like the idea of.
Osada makes a very nice 40,000 handpiece also. Expensive but my favorite tool. Next favorite is my BurrKing 2 inch belt grinder.
Nice. Been looking at those. I actually bought parts to build my own, and that project is dragging out like all of my others.
Good stuff James. Thank you!
Great video, I will order the deburring tool and as Always, thank you for all you do for the community. Happy Holidays to you and your Family. All the best in the new year k
The reason I watch is so I don't feel so bad when I drop and ruin a carbide end mill myself lol 😆👍🏻🍻
At least carbide makes a lovely ringing tone when it bounces off steel!
This is why I'm making a power drawbar for my mill, roughly similar to Marc Presling's design for his Bridgeport. I also have the PM-935, so I'll be interested to see your mounting solution if you make a PDB.
Gday James, it’s heart breaking when an end mill drops, this has happened many times here, the bracket looks good, great idea mounting the scale on its side, thanks for sharing, cheers
I enjoy watching--keep them coming!
Nice job. Great video, as always. I look forward every week to the weekend so I can watch you video.
One of the benefits of predrilling holes in slots is that you get to use a portion of the rnill that usually doesn't see any action. Should have tried a full depth slotting op with that extra long endmill.
Very nice work!
It's Murphy's Law that the really bad things only happen when you're not prepared or not looking. ;) Beautiful workmanship, btw!
Great video good skills and knowledge thanks 👍
good job. keep up the good work
James thx for sharing this video. I've been perplexed on how to shoehorn a DRO onto a mini lathe myself. You have more room to work with your small lathe.
Sorry for your endmill loss. I agree that wasn't supposed to happen. Man typically you have to tap the drawbar to get the collet to release, oh no not this time.
Can you do a video on resharpening that carbide endmill ?
Again, thx for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your mistakes too! You helped me a lot!
Sigh.....having successfully fitted a DRO to my small mill I lusted for one on the lathe too........but as you said, it's a difficult position to attach one to.......some older lathes just don't have enough flat surfaces to attach things to, so I'll be watching your expertise to see if I can pick some tips.......i might have to go with one of those lesser popular types that look like a long digital vernier slide with a long wire lead out to a small display (cheap and cheerful), that way I get Metric or Imperial to 5 microns ......I only need (want) the crosslide DRO......for years I've used a dial indicator against the tool post with a mag base for the final accuracy.....it's only the last few thou you really need to get it right.
I actually wanted Z more than X, for establishing shoulder locations.
Hi! I`m not english speaking person, but I love your jobs! Very interesting and usefull to me. Thank you!
You were not kidding, the NSK grinder is not cheap!!!
my comment is i like watching how precisely you do things not big on the cnc stuff but i still enjoy
Another amazing, in depth video!!!! James. They just keep getting better and better!! Great great job. Thank you!! One small note worth considering if you still have the saddle off the machine. The same guy who inspired you to drill the 4 holes for the future STPH, had a good tip along the way that worked well on my small lathe. Add 4-5 more holes and pins for the gib set screws. The additional control really helps to increase rigidity even more. Just food for thought. You certainly don’t need my opinion. Yours are damn good. Cheers! 😀
I thought about it. Maybe someday.
You can sharpen that mill. It's not like you're running a production shop. BTW why don't you use an electronic edge finder. One day after I bought mine the manual one has sat in a box. Good video.
Here's another .500 stubby carbide gauge pin. Also still perfect for any radial cutting.
I toasted a couple 1.5" hss end mills last week.
Always like your videos wish there was more glen from Ireland
Have you considered just using the TTS holder you have in your knee mill? I've been doing that and it makes things very very nice. If you use the little butterfly style impact on the drawbar then you always have a hand free to catch the tool.
I'm still here because you have a soothing voice, perfect for napping 😅 just like Bob Ross.
I can say the 6 bolt compound mod was a bit of a game changer....you'll be satisfied!
"I'm gonna go through it **IN DETAIL**"
Can't wait to see how you tackle that next project. ;) I did one myself and I'm curious how you'll go about it.
I have broken plenty of tooling. It happens. After you build a cutter grinder you will be able to touch up the ends.
Randy sure does have nice knockers!
Sorry about the bit, glad to know I'm not the only one.
Keith from Michigan. For a while I generally watched your channel. So I moved on, for those individuals are doing Hobby Lathe projects. Your Lathe "I bought one just like that, the darn thing never worked " Personally James, my scope was, I worked on a lot of machine tools. Good luck with the DRO system....
I did the same thing, dropping my end mill cutter on the vice. What I did on my mill (nearly identical to yours but from KBC) is I made a foot brake pedal that stops the motor first and then applies the brake. This way you have a hand free to hold onto the tool as you loosen the draw bar. If you're interested, I can send you some pictures or a video of how I did it. Mr Pete did a video on it last year I believe but it was only a brake.
I love your content by the way, keep up the good work!
Oh, interesting. A foot brake would be handy. Easier than shifting into low gear. A power drawbar would also solve the problem.
I keep a small rectangle of 1 inch wood by my mill tools. I use this to shield the vise or mill table during tool changes.
That's a good idea.
You have the shars d bit grinder try putting a new edge on your end mill. I’d also like to see a good tutorial on, it I’m thinking about picking one up.
Another excellent video! I am curious why you chose steel for the read head bracket vs. aluminum, for example? Seems like the forces at play in use are very low, unless something most unfortunate occurs...
Yes, except for the stop screw. The tailstock will likely hit that repeatedly, and I want the threads to hold.
Hi James, as always, another great video! Can't believe you held up that long to install the DRO! I had the same dilemma for the cross slide DRO, it gets in the way and limits the tail stock travel so I placed everything inside the crosslide! My lathe is similar to the PM-1127 in size so probably slightly larger than yours, but you could build your own readheads like I did and you wouldn't even notice a DRO was installed! It sure is within your capability! Let me know if the idea is for you.
That does sound very cool. It's tight in there, but the actual magnetics are pretty small...
@@Clough42 They are small indeed, it is tight but but if you make your own read head housing they'll fit in. You can check out the The Model Engineer forum UK. There is a thread titled DIY magnetic DRO which shows all the details of making the read heads and fitting inside the cross slide.
Nice to see the little hand grinder in action, sorry bout your end mill :(
It's a beauty. It's way too expensive to justify the productivity I'll get out of it, but I smile every time I pick it up. I'm smiling now, just thinking about it.
A solution that works for me to prevent dropped end mills is to always have a paper egg carton under when changing end mills. The shape and density of the egg carton absorbs the drop so it doesn't bounce off. It looks like you've had you mill for about a year? Would you mind doing a video on how you like it and if there was anything you'd do different when buying it?
Good Afternoon James, I've watched a considerable amount of your videos and really have enjoyed them. I have a Grizzly G0752 lathe which I'm going to install your electronic lead screw project on. I noticed while watching various videos that you have really nice bench with drawers and etc that your Grizzly G0602 in mounted on. Is this a project that you built? If so do you have any plans available or where I could get them? I also do a lot of woodworking and would like to build one like yours without going through the hassle of designing it. Keep up the great videos.
So use *all* the clamps in the shop? Nice work on a challenging setup.
Informative 👍
Ciao James, ottimo lavoro e video molto bello spiegato molto bene. Io leggo i sottotitoli perché non capisco la tua lingua, faccio fatica a capire tutto ma le immagini aiutano perfettamente. Ciao
Ouch! You must have good collets cuz the cheap import ones never do that. Though half the time they don't go in either 🤣. Great looking bracket, James!
Cheers!
if you spot the holes first like you should for at least 2 reasons 1st to assure accurate location, and 2nd to verify correct location before drilling in the wrong spot there is no need to chamfer the tapped hole and damage the leading thread on the finished holes because the spotter has already done that
Hi folks. This way of mounting the scale on a lathe might also be useful for the 'Y' axis on a Drill-Mill machine. There's very little space there as well. On my Optimum BF30V there are some ready machined surfaces which I may be able to use. I don't have gib screws to worry about but there are oil points I must be able to get to afterwards. Can't be more helpful here, I'm still trying to come up with a good solution for my kit.
James, I find that when using keyless chucks this type of accident keeps happening. Often you need both hands to loosen the chuck and lacking a third hand there is a tendency to forget that gravity has its own plans for the drill/cutter. However with a keyed chuck you only need one hand to open the chuck leaving the other free to hold the drill. Just fitted a DRO to my own small Myford lathe but used the method posted by Myfordboy as we have the same lathes but may look at the method you have used on the cross slide to see if it will work on mine.
The end mill was held in a collet. I have never had an issue with a keyless chuck. I can typically hook one finger around the tool when loosening a keyless chuck.
Great video man. I love watching these videos. I really want to get a Lathe for my shop one day but right now the funds aren't there.. I want to also get a proper Milling machine. I want to learn to mill my own parts for machines and not have to go to the expense of paying someone else for the parts for certain things anymore.
Could u recommend the best courses I would need to do to learn all this stuff if there are any?
Bad luck on dropping that bit bro. These things are expensive. I bet that rag will be under the rest from now on too. heehee! I'm only joking of course. I always enjoy videos like this one. It's cool to see somebody mill parts from a block of steel.
Looking at these 4 extra holes, I have a clue what your next project is. (at least I did it some 4 weeks ago.)
8:20 Normal, its a cast iron part so you have an angle on the sides to get these pieces out of the forms ... so no calculating ussue.
I love you videos and content every week🇸🇪👍 But what is happening to the G0704?
I'm sure it's feeling neglected.
@@Clough42 I guess so😊 You have more capable machines now👍
Great video. Thank you. What bit are you using intuit deburring machine? Im like the look of it over my Fordom, and will likely get one.
Just a cheap 3mm double cut taper burr from a $13 import set of 20. I tried some nice ones from McMaster and couldn't really tell the difference.
Very nice project James, it was a project a hobbyist could do. I've been subscribed for quite a while and was going to un-subscribe because most of the projects seem like they're for a professional and not a hobbyist. Plus there was too much "look at the expensive tools I have" (name dropping tools). But this project makes this retired 70 year old want to buy a good hobby lathe to go along with the hobby mill I have. Thank you for a very good video.
You are awesome!
Hey James, great video! I wanted to ask if you find issues with the angle of the indicator tip in relation to the work? It was my understanding that the tip should be roughly 12° (manufacturer-dependent) from the surface it’s measuring, otherwise you get cosine error on the reading. Perhaps it doesn’t matter if you’re using it as a comparator? Thanks!
That only matters if you are trying to take a measurement. If you're trying to tap something in straight, it doesn't really matter. I guess the argument could me made that you still want to know if you're "within one thou" or whatever, but I'm not really worried about it.
You _could_ put new gib screws on the chuck side of the cross slide - right? 🤔
What drill chuck are using? Im currently shopping for one. I am following this closely as I have been wrestling with my 0602 on the dro issue. I really wish grizzly had thought the issue through more from the get go though. Your awesome & thanks for the videos!
It's the 1/2" keyless chuck that PM sells for their machines.
my initial thought
install scale on the ways and read head on the sliding piece
it really shouldn't matter which part go where
Hi James, good video as always, have you tried 3d printing chain guides for automotive valve gear? as for the tool drop, gave myself poor eyesight grinding machine tools all day everyday as a young man, this stuff happened all the time. J-P.
yikes, that grinder is proud
Coincidentally, I'm looking at DROs for my little lathe. DRO Pros now has a smaller profile "MagnaSlim" scale as an option, which makes the installation possible. The extrusion is 6.5mm by 15mm, but the tape is only 10mm wide, so I plan to trim the flanges so it's 6.5 mm by 1/2 inch.
vevor has some reasonably priced models. i've been looking install one on a small craftsman lathe i have, because the traverse handles aren't dial marked, and constantly stopping to mic my dimensions is a real pain.