How to make DIY polyurethane engine mounts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2016
- This is the liquid polyurethane I used: amzn.to/2VPPayY
Here's a detailed video showing you how to make polyurethane engine and transmission mounts from liquid polyurethane.
The advantages of doing this as opposed to buying ready made aftermarket polyurethane engine mounts are that this method is much cheaper (25 USD for 4 mounts vs. 160 USD for 2 mounts in the case of my car).
The advantages of polyurethane engine (especially torque mounts) are improved responsiveness, no need to replace the mounts ever again, reduced wheel hop and preventing horsepower lost on moving the engine back and forth.
The video shows a detailed procedure, from removing the old mount inserts, burning out the rubber, and pouring in new liquid polyurethane. The product I used is reoflex 60 from smooth-on. There are many others out there however, this is just what was available to me and in the right shore hardness.
The additional benefit of DIY mounts is the fact that you can customize the shore hardness of the mounts to make it best suited to your particular application. I have selected 60A shore hardness which is a nice compromise between the 80A shore hardness stuff which is more suited to track day cars and the 40A shore hardness stock rubber.
The important thing is to ensure the pins inside the mounts are fitted in the same position as stock and they must be positioned to stand flat for the liquid polyurethane to cure properly. Think in advance about where the polyurethane will be drying as this is where the engine mounts will be sitting for anywhere between 16-48 hours depending on the tempereture and liquid polyurethane product/brand.
Check out my blog for more MR2 mk1, 4AGE, DIY and more fun car stuff: www.driving4answers.com/
#d4a #diy #polyurethane #enginemounts #engine #polyurethanemounts #4age #4age16v #aw11 #ae86 #4agebigport #mr2mk1 #mr2 #toyota #jdm #celica #corolla #starlet #ke70 #fx16
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This is the liquid polyurethane I used: amzn.to/2VPPayY
This is the pigment for coloring the polyurethane that I used: amzn.to/36X81ww
Watch the follow-up video: th-cam.com/video/mBYhdLsQqug/w-d-xo.html
To skip the intro where I explain everything you need to know about poly mounts go to 4:00 where I start taking out the old ones and pouring new ones in.
I am not in any way sponsored, endorsed, supported, etc. by this company. This info is also in the video description but no one reads that apparently :) There's a lot more good options in terms of liquid urethane out there probably, but this one worked really well for me and bonded itself to the metal mount very well.
привет все хорошо. когда заводишь двигатель или глушишь происходит детонация двиготеля.тош то инженеры придумали много лет назат это правелные подушки двиготеля.то што ты показал это не провелно.идинствена с твоим изопритением можна времино ездить пока олиминь не лопнит. я этод экспиремент уже пробул. и я не вы ложыл это видео YotTude, пристав кагда машына троит толко двиготел дрибежыт, а если сделать по твоему технологие то двиготел будет валяца но земле,и очень часто будеш обрашяца до сваршиков чтобы они варили тваю машыну. я этот эксперемент уже делол.Удачи тибе .Я Руский
can u straight to the point please ??
Tycoolerz Yet no kidding. So much fucking useless talking
driving 4 answers iiiy
driving 4 answers
As someone trained in low pressure (hand) polyurethane injection moulding, I would suggest a silicone gun and getting some empty tubes. You can fill the tubes with the polyurethane, pop a cap on the end, put in the gun, and squeeze any bubbles out.
After mixing, if you have a vacuum chamber, it helps to pull a vacuum on the material too. Once air has been pushed out the nozzle end of the tube, you should endevour to keep the tube NOZZLE DOWN, to trap any air near the cap/plunger end, and not in the nozzle (to avoid injecting it).
A heatgun can be used on most material to pop air bubbles that rise to the surface, and heat can be used to accelerate the curing process. Polyurethane will take up to 28 days to 100% cure, and it will gradually get harder over a longer period of time, but it depends on the pre-polymer and the crosslink compound used!
Bare in mind, a lot of crosslink compounds and pre-polymers are carcinogenic, wear gloves at a bare minimum with the material, but I would advise a respirator. Methyl-Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or Acetone can be used to remove polyurethane too (Even when set), however, i caution against using it on where you want to keep it because it can make material swell over time.
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Experience: Producing equipment, cables, joints & connectors from polyurethane for offshore marine, military and survey industries, with my mouldings tested to depths of up to 6000m.
@Snowman88 if you want to melt your fuel lines, yes you can do that. MEK is more aggressive than acetone haha
@Snowman88 Knowledge is a gift to humanity, sharing it with others is the best thing we can do in life.
You need to start your own business rebuilding motor mounts. I have a geo storm can't find them anywhere
@@trulyblessed8767 I could do, but it'd be mail order and I'd need to get a few hundred £££ worth of stuff first. Vacuum chamber is a must really, tubes are cheap, as is a silicone gun. I have MEK and Acetone from doing some paintwork a while ago (few litres of each)
You ideally need a jig and a work bench as well, or a hot plate. I'd need some aluminium plate and silicone release spray to sit the engine mounts or bushings on with some way to locate any centre pins or bolt holes.
Far from impossible and I might just do it, quite a saturated market though unfortunately.
Nice! I have recently searching how to do some cables connectors waterproof to oceanography equipments to my college's work.
Just a quick tip about getting the pin out! If you just focus the flame on the metal pin it gets super hot and then you can use pliers to get it to pull right out from the rubber.
Awesome tip thanks man!
This makes the metal brittle.
@@leolldankology That depends on the composition and heat treat, if its low carbon, something like less than 0.3%, there should be no problems
@@milandjuric8043 and you know the composition because you have a technical drawing from the original manufacture?
Should be alright is a pretty big term, especially when you don't have this information readily available.
@@chronicblazer84 f it man just try what works if it works.
Everyone did this in the nissan community years ago glad to see people still using it with success
I knew of a lot of DSM guys doing it too. Haven't seen it done in forever tho. Prices back then were so much higher
I'm doing this for my 2005 1.8l stick shift sentra lmao, can't wait for these things to cure
Exactly! This was a must
I did it on my bmw 8 years ago and they lasted until I sold it ..💯
@@LegitimentPieAre the mounts still holding up ?
It would be a very good Idea to use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut small grooves around the center sleeve and inside the large outer ring to help create a stronger bond to the polyurethane.
+electronicsNmore That's a good idea. The mounts are still going strong, but I'm sure that if anything fails it will be the bond between the center sleeve and the poly. It would probably be a good idea to roughen up the center sleeve outer surface as much as possible.
driving 4 answers It was a great video. :-)
It would be btter to use a proper metal-polyurethane primer. Clean the surface of the matal with MEK or Acetone, use some MEK to water down a little primer, apply with a small artist brush in a very thin layer, leave it 20-60 minutes to set, then pour or inject your material.
I recommend using same method STR/Seacon/Subconn etc use for moulding cables or joints and equipment, ie: a empty tube + nozzle + cap, with a silicone gun. It allows you to push the air out of the nozzle end prior to injection. Not only this, but vacuuming the material down for a minute to remove air bubbles also helps. It depends on the material though (ie: pre-polymer and crosslink).
@@d4a Hello, 4 years have passed, please tell us how these elements look now !. It will be great to see after all this time. Please.
@@d4a Smooth-On sells a product they call Ure-Bond to help their urethane rubbers stick better.
I did this 20 years ago on my '89 Civic Si. I made the engine mounts solid with 50a polyurethane. The increase in felt harshness and vibration from the engine was tremendous. It was for a race car, so I didn't mind. If you are doing this on a street car, your passengers will hate it. I imagine drilling holes to emulate the shape of the original mounts would have reduced the vibration, but it was a race car, so I just left it in torture mode.
Batman: WHERE ARE THEY?
Joker:…
Batman: Get the ‘89 Civic
A plastic tomato sauce bottle with a pouring tip is a great container that gives much better control of the flow of liquids. The tip allows you to pour into small, precise places, and you just don't get the product spillage seen here. The easiest way to remove old mounts is to burn them on an outdoor wood fired bbq without trying to remove them from the OME bracket. Once all rubber is gone, the outer sleeves of the OME push in mounts can then be cut once with a reciprocal saw & twisted free easily. Plastic bagging or pallet wrap serves as a great release surface to avoid cardboard hang up! Maybe a better way than using cardboard to local centre sleeves is to 12mm chipboard. Three nails will locate the outer rim, then put the centre piece where it needs to be (offset or not offset), and drill a hole through the centre so you can fit a bolt to the chipboard & hold it in place firmly with a nut. Common floor wax is a great release agent I use all the time in fiberglassing along with PVA release, so I'm also keen to try them when i attempt this manufacturing myself.
WJP004 Great tips!
Quick tip on removing the rubber. If you drill a series of holes around the center it makes for a lot less rubber to burn. Also it allows the flame to penetrate through the bushing rubber. That method has the added effect of directing a lot of the fumes coming off the rubber to move away from the guy holding the torch.
Best to use a degassing chamber (which can be homebuilt) and a large plastic graduated paint tub (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards) as opposed to a paint rolling pan liner. Makes pouring a hell of a lot easier. I've used Smooth-On for several years for many things, from replacement parts mold casting to original castings to fillers, as is here. To make the pour "pretty", get a melamine board instead of cardboard and hot glue the part to it. No run out. No sticking. Easy parting. And if you want a profile to the poly, create it with modeling clay in the bottom of the casing. If your originals had a profile in the rubber, you could even cast it with this poly to place inside the case by simply using talc as the parting agent. You might even be able to extract the pin from the original rubber with a homemade electromagnetic coil to heat the pin but not the rubber. The pin gets hot, the rubber around the pin melts and allows the pin to slip out with a pair of pliers. Then, just slice up the remaining rubber into sections with a coping saw and peel it out. Safer and legal, since burning rubber is both a health danger and illegal in the US. Just be sure to re-temper the pin afterwards. Videos for each of these steps exist on TH-cam - some in multiples.
What you really want to see starts at 6:35..............you are welcome!!!
You're right. I'm going to put an annotation.
mvp
TQ bro
@@d4a To me the entire video was very informative from start to finish. Can aftermarket shops perform these DIYs on a car? I'm just wondering because I think I have two that failed on me since the Dealership had to replace my motor for legit warranty work. I've been thinking about getting them all replaced.
God bless u
A vacuum-box will help you to get the airbubbles out of the liquid PU! We use it almost every day and the results are absolutely great.
Correct. Another option is to use a lower-viscosity PU. The lower the viscosity, the easier the bubbles will rise to the top and out of the PU.
Correct. Stock ones are pressed while heated under vacuum in a mold. Much better than the pour in.. longer lasting too
Why am I watching this. I don't even have a car.
Why am I watching this? I don't even know what a car is.
pvc LMAO!!!!!
Why am I watching this? I don't even have any electronic devices to watch this on.
I think I know someone that saw an object one time
PVC let me guess why you don’t have a car because you got caught drinking and driving And the police impounded your car 😂
stack wood under the mount before removing or damaging the rubber. start with the lowest point and use a hammer to imprint the wood. drill the hole for the shaft then stamp the mount surround. insert bolts into the holes in the vertical position, stamp and drill them as well. then remove rubber and insert back into template. then pour mold.
I would highly recommend doing this in a well ventilated area and wearing gloves and a respirator.
I work with PU (polyurethane) on a daily basis as a mold maker and this stuff can make you really sick!
DO NOT USE this in your living room!
Aside from that, Smooth-On makes some great products for prototyping, I use them daily!
+1
If you have access to a vacuum pot, you can degas the urethane prior to pouring.
This will get rid of any unwanted air bubbles. Also, most polyurethane rubber compounds can be post-cured in a scientific oven to reach optimal mechanical properties.
Cheers!
Guys take heed... look up isocyanates both burning and mixing polyurethane is no joke. I've talked with painters who've been exposed and it's not fun whatsoever.
I did the same thing , but I used Polyurethane caulk / sealant . About $8 a tube. Probably not as good , plenty of air bubbles? but was very strong also. You have to be extremely accurate in measuring and keeping the inner bushing in place. Otherwise bolting into the car will not work. Nice job!
If you want to get the air bubbles out, you take your mini torch and pass the flame over it right after you pour it. I was a polymer tech for quite a while. Also, it helps if you heat the mount first as well.
You've really come a long ways since these old times! I appreciate the upgrade in audio and video equipment. Lol.
Reminds me of the quick fix for one of the cars I owned.
Punch the center through a hockey puck.
Worked better than an OEM replacement. Lasted 100k miles. Was impressed.
Lower arm or engine mount
@@woozhi9218 engine.
Brilliant idea , I can't count how many mounts I have bought in the past few years. Track racing is never forgiving . Get a mix up several different hardness and compress it into tubes , hopefully enough of waxing on the inside diameter will allow me to push out the blank so we can be cut to size and shaped on the lathe and mill. Again brilliant idea and many thanks .
I worked in a prototype shop and we had a job to make some custom urethane wheels. We had a metal insert placed in a mold. The insert had areal rough surface making it better for bonding. Plus I believe we had a primer to put on metal to help in bonding, anything you didn't want the urethane to stick to (the outside of the mold) had mold release.
Thanks to this guy I am saving $1000 on motor mounts
How did your mounts go mate ?
My Mazdaspeed 3 has three engine mounts: the rear motor mount (down low, between the transmission and the subframe), the passenger motor mount (up high on the left side of the passenger's side of the engine bay, between that side of the engine and the longitudinal frame rail there, and the transmission motor mount, about halfway down the height of the engine, under the battery box). The mounts are designed to run OTS Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, for easy replacement, if necessary.
I will say thins: a major contributing factor of NVH is the orientation/loading of the bushing itself. All of my bushings are in the 80+ duro range, and it does add some vibes, but I'm putting down 385/380 @ the wheels, so the performance boost of having the engine very solidly mounted is worth it to me, especially with an eye toward occasionally tracking.
Great vid, BTW.
That's good to know about the Speed 3. I have a regular 3 and swapped the terrible oil filled mounts for 80 duro poly mounts. It drove me nuts and they didn't stay long.
I replaced my worn out rubber mount with P.V.A. polyvinyl adhesive, used for bonding glazed ceramic and vinyl asbestos tiles.I was impressed by the excellent stiffness and great results.
Wow I never thought of chucking up a wire brush in a drill press. That's brilliant.
There are some rubber drums that hold sandpaper rings, that placed on a drillstand work beautifully too.
Just dont do it like him
NEVER wirebrush with a drillpress and wear Rubber gloves.....NEVER
Benn there, Done That .......it fucking Hurts when it grabs the rubber ;)
If you add dye to only one part before mixing, you'll have a better visual on when the product is completely mixed.
If you have a thick metal engine mount, you can drill some holes into the thick areas from the area where the rubber was, so there are areas where the polyurethane can hook into, preventing spinning and sliding even further beyond coarse sanding.
Also, if you can get just the rubber out, you may be able to coat it in fiberglass (in a manner that allows you to pull the rubber back out) to make a reusable mold.
@
This is great!
genius.
.
Wow! Inspirational, and very useful DIY for rare expensive mounts. Thank you for this! Will try making one for my '97 Acura CL 3.0 right side mount.
Thanks for this video. I have a 1996 Riviera with a bad motor mount that is impossible to replace. They simply are not available, and even the used ones from salvage yards are all so old that the rubber is gone. But repairing my motor mount using this method sounds like just the thing I need to do. Thanks again.
how is it holding up?
If possible, when removing the original pressed in rubber inner bush, to weaken the pressed in steel mount's press fit in the outer casing, rather than attack it with the hammer and pointed chisel/drift, to collapse it, if there is a gap in the rubber big enough to get a hacksaw blade in you could VERY carefully saw thru the inner sleeve taking care not to saw into the outer part, then it should come out easily. just an idea:-) thanks for the idea and taking the time to post a video, friend!
Yes and if burn rubber not fingers or hands it,its very poison for body.
One could also use a Dremel rotary tool to get into the bushing with a but more precision. I prefer to use a tungsten carbide bit that will actually cut a hacksaw blade in half.
Amazing guide! You're awesome bro! I'm so glad you went into the details about stiffness and shared the product you used.
Road Worthy Thank you. It makes me really happy when people find it useful :)
Great idea and demo video, thanks for sharing. I like that I saw this BEFORE I did my engine swap not after!
THANKS!!! Just today I was wondering how I was going to make the bushings for a custom 4-point trailing axle suspension for a 5 ton baja truck...Now I know how!! GREAT JOB!!!
How did the DIY bushings go ?
A standard rubber bushing is designed to flex and twist when needed to, hence why the rubber is attached to the outer ring and the central pin.
Doing what you have done, basically fixing it with a solid lump of Polyurethane, will not allow the same degrees of movement and could possibly damage the Poly bushing.
What I am trying to say is when you bolt up the centre of the mount it will have no movement, where as a 'Bought' Poly bushing has the pin in the centre removed/not attached so that the bushing can rotate easier.
That is what the gaps in the original bushing are for, twisting movement. When you tighten the bolt in the centre of your fixed mounts, it will tighten everything and you will have NO twisting movement and a very short bushing life.
When you change a wishbone bushing or whole wishbone, the car should be settled at ride height before tightening the mounts, so that everything is straight and allows for the proper twisting/movement of the bushing.
15 years of Mechanical Engineering has proven this to me many times. If you want to do this properly you need to pour the Poly without the centre pin, then drill out the hole required and grease the pin so it has rotation.
Good idea tho, might try it one day :)
TheFrowningLizard that's true. It's how most OEM and aftermarket bushes are supplied. As you say the pins should pivot and be lubricated. It's a good start in DIY though 🤔😊
By "wishbone" I assume you mean Control Arm bushings. Most engine mounts, especially ones that are oriented vertically do not require the same amount of flexing as a control arm. Regardless, what if you were to first lightly grease the pin with say a very thin coat of something like Vaseline. If wiped off enough to leave an extremely thin coat I assume you would be able to easily remove the pin once the poly has cured and then reinsert it again with whatever proper bushing grease such as silicone grease (which you didn't specify). You could also do this with a few other smaller pins in the middle ring of the poly to create 4 to 6 added holes for flexing. I think doing these two things would take this DIY mod as far as it can go.
you must not know much about high performance mounts. polyurethane IS the material that high energy mounts are made of. they are the "flexible " version of solid metal mounts. if you are applying any HP to them the poly will be much better feeling that that sloppy rubber. Even OEM mounts for my Ram are hard to find and one is over $300. this is actually an extremely good idea.
TheFrowningLizard this is how poly bushings are made,they just vacuum mold them,but this is the material they use,you can select diff hardness to get the movement you need without causing to much vibrations...next step after this is solid aluminium inserts welded on the mount(solid mounts)
If the car dont make the required power to run them it will vibrate even more...
@ alonzo rottman. Yep that's how I found this video. Searching for an alternative to the pricey front mounts for my 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. Will be working on the mounts this weekend but more than likely I'll be using the Windo Weld.
Good afternoon,
my friend, congratulations for this important tutorial .. I appreciate
all the information you can give me to learn how to do that work ..
LOL, I have been enjoying your Iconic Engines series and this popped up in my feed. I watched this video when it first came out! You've come a long way.
Same here. I realized that I had watches this video years ago without even realizing it was him. So much has changed! Lol
Me too!!! You didn’t used to smile... now you do!! Great!!
For those talking about compressing the polymer to reduce the size of the air bubbles, you could probably get a similar benefit by just putting the mixed liquid in a vacuum press before pouring.
It's similar to what you'd do with any epoxy/composites when you're going to have the final product visible. Putting the mixed epoxy under vacuum removes the air bubbles that make the epoxy visible and potentially less durable
@Michael Hensley That's not a good reasoning. Air bubbles introduce inconsistencies and if there are a lot of them, they greatly weaken the final product. If you need more absorbtion, you just use a softer Shore hardness polyurethane (40A instead of 60A like the guy here used).
Actually contrary to many comments about the "bonded in" nature of the pin and outer ring to the urethane, I believe here what he has suggested, is the best of both worlds. The STOCK RUBBER ones are around Shore 40A to 50A but the Urethane can similarly be purchase to Shore 40A or 50A or 60A or very soft Shore 10A or very much harder in the higher Shore D scale. The comparison is urethane compared to rubber have slightly different absorption of vibration and slightly less stress defection for similar Shore hardness. This has to do with modulus of elasticity. If you pick a urethane similar to the original rubber bushing the stress defection would be similar with a softer, i.e. more energy absorbing, urethane bushing as the urethane has a higher modulus of elasticity and less stress deflection all things equal. As urethane is basically both higher tensile, and compressive strength for a particular hardness its going to absorb more energy so deflection will be less, and the internal stresses will be higher. So the idea of going harder is bad as it increases shock loading with high resulting internal stresses. This leads to reduced life and compression set unless carefully engineered, just like rubber bushings. But urethane is an engineered chemical whereas rubber is made like making a cake from a combination of materials coming together to form a unified whole, heavily dependent on processing the same. Still don't push it if you don't want to crumble your bushings be careful. You may have better engineered material but you don't want push it too far or it will deteriorate just as bad or worse than rubber. The difference is rubber will gradually give up whereas urethane will all of a sudden give up. He is on the right track not to allow sliding movement and accomplish suspension normal deflections with deflection of the urethane like is done with rubber bushes. Auto suspension engineers have a 100 years of experience and mass use to back them up with the bonded in flexible rubber bushes technology. The urethane applied the same way is a change of material not basic design... so the man here is right to build his bushes as he does.
So in other words if you choose a shore hardness of polyurethane that's the same as the original rubber the urethane will dampen vibrations more effectively? Seems like that would be the right way to go, rather than using a harder material. Start there and work your way up if necessary.
Kimball Scarr good advice I was wondering about that
Never thought about repouring mounts. ir, actually msking new custom mounts for a new project. thank you for a nice introduction to this!
wow ! you just helped me fix something that I made a long time ago thank you.
Thank you ! I love it when a plan comes together thank you
This is some great insight, i love it. definitely will try it..
Nice one, ill try this on the rally car, those powerflex rubbers cost a fortune, great idea.
Awesome idea for engine mounts. This product would work great on old machines that have components that have deteriorated over time. Great idea!
Very informative and instructive. Gave me some great resource ideas.
This is so clever! I may do this for my transmission mount which has become hard to find.
How did it go ?
I have to say next time I need a carrier bearing insulator for a drive line I'm going to do this. New carrier bearings are $185 up to over $1000 if you can even get one it's in my experience almost always the rubber insulator that rots and not the bearing. In my old Datsun I would of had to get a new driveline made to get a carrier bearing. So I cut up a mudflap and wrapped the carrier bearing every couple years I had to rewrap it . But this man im going to try it.
Just FYI, a lot of the drivelines are based on a Subaru drive line from the mid to late 90s or early 2000s, and licensed from Subaru. I had a 2005 Cadillac SRX with such a driveline, and the part was costly. But the CTS part was $35, and had the same inner rubber spider and bearing, only had to dismount the outer mount from the old part, and put in the new bearing and isolator into it. Worked perfectly and far less money. Anyone encountering these should see if there's another cheaper model car or even this CTS part that will work (since many are also licensed from Subaru and the same part and bearing design), and simply replace the isolator and bearing, your old outer ring and mounting tabs are probably not damaged at all.
I'm impressed, i didnt know that this was possible.
I'd set it up in a customwood MDF jig & bolt the parts in place, you could also do the holes in the rubber by using long thin bolts with plastic straws around them.
I have had one car i could have 'saved' using this idea. & Currently 2 strut arms that need this done. ( Good balljoint @ each end, + worn bush in centre )
Thankyou/m
Thanks. This will work great for some discontinued rear swing arm bushings for my minivan. You can also use a saws all to get the inner pin out of the rubber if you have one.
Awesome! Job. Keep it up and keep posting
That was totally cool. Had no idea you could do this.
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Perfect low cost DIY solution! Love this idea! We just replaced the motor mounts in my son's 69 Bronco, not sure this would have worked for that but I could picture making body bushings and linkage bushings using this method as well?! Thanks for the video!
Griffin Benchmark Thanks for watching, glad you liked it. I'm sure it would have worked fine for the Bronco too, as long as the mold isn't some super complex shape that is impossible to pour. Haven't tried suspension and other bushings yet, but lots of other people suggested it and said they would give it a go. In theory it should work, but I'll have to give it a try myself before I can be sure.
I had no idea you made this video, I saw this video like 4 years ago, and then subscribed like 2 or 3 years ago lol
Thanks for the video and help👍
the whole measuring and offsetting the pins is sketchy to me so if i were to do this i would just pour the poly in the motor mount with the old insert in there already, maybe drill holes or cut out some of the old stuff
thats what i do. few years ago. all i did was replace the liquid with 3M rubber. the one you used to seal restroom or wood. it was too rough for my taste and i brought oem mounts.
I suspect the offset isn't by design, it's the old rubber having collapsed and now he's transferred that 'collapse' into his new mounts.
Great video! Thanks for the info, I will be using this in the future.
Amazing work! Thanks fornsharing this! Ill be doing this fornmy mini vtec conversion!
thanks a lot for sharing your idea. what kind of product u use. and where I can get it ?? the mix I mean
Clean the mount with denatured alcohol, use masking tape to make sure you don't run everywhere and fill the voids in the rubber mount with windshield adhesive. Works just as well, quicker, cheaper, easier.
i was think what if he just filled in the rubber cavity with the polyurethane instead. Should give a much stiffer ride. less engine movement, not quite as much as pure polyurethane mounts but just as good. And most likely wont vibrate when idling.
This is insane! How have I not heard of this before?!
Excellent filming, editing, lighting--everything! Once of the best DIY vids. Cool!
davecc0000 Thank you for your kind words and support, it means a lot.
Ingenious brother don't let the naysayers get to you here you're idea is sound and I'll be doing my upper ford mount this weekend to see how it works out. Thanks
+Victor Borg Thank you for your support. Glad you like the vid.
Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. Glad you like it.
thanks, very informative. good detail.
Great video, might be well timed for me too as I want to redo every mount/bushing on my car.
I left some of the original rubber in so it was more PU reinforced rubber. Worked very well.
That is a good idea. If you leave the original rubber in you don't have to measure anything and the results are almost identical. I wanted 100% poly for the sake of showing you can DIY the same thing that's being sold for a lot more $$$.
I used a vibrating plate to settle air bubbles. Amazing how much air traps
did this work?
Going to do this for my Mk1 MR2 also. Premade for our car is insanely priced...
Nice job bro
Where are you located?
Nice job, love the do it yourself idea of this, even if it is for hard to get parts.
About 15 years ago I did this for my Infiniti G20. But I used 3M Window adhesive It's black polyurethane in a tube. I Can't remember, but it was maybe $10 a tube(small caulk tube).
Jackup460 did it last?
Manila Dashcam Yeah, they're still holding up.
I also used 3M window weld on some suspension bushings. Been a year and still holding up
Manila Dashcam
yes it will last a very long time, window adhesive is so strong you can lift the car on the window after drying
Awesome! I'll have to do this at some point. Good work sir.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Did you try it yet
I put a like before watching the video..
Not because of the quality of the video but because of your intention to help others with their problems
I spent 622 in my currency and just 151.7 in your currency to get those
Control arm bushings
Really appreciate the surface knowledge you teach
Great idea
Thank you so much for sharing this..
Eternally grateful 🙏
Mate that was awesome. Well made video and very informative.
I feel like a wax paper on the cardboard would probably release easier
That's what I was thinking. 👍
Just did a set for my 2010 accent, super awesome mod for cars without any aftermarket support
I used a calking tube of polyurethane normally used to install windshields instead of the 2 part. it only comes in black but the motor mounts are not that visible. I did not remove all of the rubber, only the loose bits and just filled all the holes, worked great.
These videos are good bro!! Keep them coming!!
Thank you. Will do :)
Quicker less painful way to remove the inserts if you don't have a press (I find it easier than using the press) is an air hammer, chisel attachment and a bench vice ;)
The air choochin hammer is best for all applications where you just don't care about finesse!
Jimmy Danger Gonzalez Damn straight!
Jimmy Danger Gonzalez I iz recognize an AVE follower when I has seez onez... Hail 200 pounds gorilla!!!
a bench vice is a press dumb dumb
why didn't you just use that with a cheater pipe
and make a die with some wood
joey BOYER Because I have a 20ton air over hydraulic shop press :P
Excellent Tutorial Buddy, I shall do this on my golf
Thanks for the tip on the use of Reoflex 60 . I found reoflex 40& to on Amazon. Where did you obtain the 60 grade
Like the tip about the coloring of choosing, thanks for the heads up
It's so nice to watch a video right after you've bought all factory parts for a car and driving it ;-((((((((((((((((((((((((((
Super brillant idea! 😉
Disculpa amigo me podrías comentar de conque nombre consigo las resinas en México?
Saludos juppausrmpott
I've discovered this channel yesterday and already love it, i'm into car too!
Thanks! Glad you like it. More stuff is coming.
Tdl
Nice video and informative, thanks. I work with polyester fiberglass quite a bit and the best, cheapest and easiest mold release I have found is Parchment paper (like wax paper but works at higher temp and is very non-stick) that can be purchased at any grocery store for $3 or $4 per 25ft. role. Where I can use it, I line the molds with it, lay wet glass over the parchment paper and let the glass cure. When cured it pops out and the parchment paper comes off easy. Would probable be a good thing to use with this liquid polyurethane. If I try it with this process I will post results..
Did you ever try it?
Gracias y excelente, como se llaman los dos compuestos quimicos? Saludos desde México.
Sera poluretano oh resina epoxica
Hi there will this stuff be alright?
Polytek EasyFlo 60
Thanks
Nice How To. Thanks for sharing!
Looks an easy fix and way cheaper than buying, great idea. I would have poured the liquid polly into a coke can, waited to dry, place in lathe, Mill to desired size then drill hole dead centre with tail stock so that everything is machine perfect, then place the pin in centre drilled hole with some lubricant
Trust me you can remove the pin from the rubber using a hole saw.
Smart dude ..that's forward thinking
You can also put the mount in a vice and use a sawzall or good hacksaw to cut down close to the pin on both sides
better off to burn, cutting rubber with that stuff will be as a stinky smoke out as burning.
Yeah i'd find another way for sure, burning is the last option i would consider.
filth hater ,i use hole cutter for steel the type that goes in a drill and remove the pilot drill out of the center,flap wheel takes the remainder off, very quick method used it in the field once on my Landy😎
if you only heat the pin it only melts/burns the rubber around the pin and makes it a hell of a lot less messy. aim the flame down the center of the pin and the pin just slides out on its own
Depends what kind of rubber they used there to begin with, some simply don't melt. But thanks for suggestion, could be useful.
But i wonder, why cannot the pin be removed by chiseling or grinding away the rubber?
Dan TheOracle exactly well said
Thanks man!
Right on to my old golf
Thanks for making this! I am finally getting around to getting new tires and sway bar links for my AW11, and this will help me a lot when I get to fabricating some new motor mounts.
Long time no see :) Glad you like it.
This is great stuff, thank you Thomas Joseph. i am a DIY'fer, i would love to know where in Jamaica i could get this product type or similar to buy????
I doubt very much this is available in Jamaica, their important tax are high. Can you order stuff from the US?
So how are the engine mounts holding up and how are they performing overall?
He made a follow up video, im sure you could find it with a search around
This is a great way to do rear axle beam/trailing arm bushings too.
Thinking of making new torque control mounts for my 2gr SW20, and this video popped back up on TH-cam.
D4A, I've got to say you've come a long way in your video presentations since this video, but this one is still great! informative, entertaining, and a very handsome host!
You sir, are an Epic hero!! thank you for sharing this..
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
Should try wax paper on top of the cardboard, very cool, might have to try this
awesome video. definatly gonna try this on my truck
Wax papers and cling wrap, and masking tape are useful for keeping mess to a minimum.