Polyurethane Engine & Transmission Mounts for less than $25
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Engine and transmission mounts are typically filled with rubber to reduce NVH (noise, vibrations and harshness) from the engine. The rubber softens the ride, makes it nicer to live with, however it does have some drawbacks. Over time, the mounts degrade and become softer. They also allow the engine to rock about in the engine bay more compared to a harder polyurethane mount. Polyurethane that is found in aftermarket mounts are typically stiffer and are more oriented towards performance.
My engine mounts in my Honda are over 10 years old and do show their age. Upshift and downshifting is more abrupt, the engine is less responsive, and it also puts more stress and wear on the clutch. Ideally, I would have liked to swap my mounts out for upgraded ones, however I am yet to find a company that offers a solution for my platform, an Accord. I purchase Innovative mounts that were ‘designed for my platform and engine’, however when I got around to trying to install them, they didn’t fit, so I scrapped that idea. My other option was to do something with the mounts I own, which is the route I took.
This video will help address 2 different issues: if you’re looking to fix old mounts that have too much play, AND, if you’re looking to make a performance mount using your OEM ones for cheap! The most expensive of the 2 products (at the moment this was recorded) is $22.
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If you have any additional questions, feel free to send me an email at milanmastracci@gmail.com. Be sure to tag me on instagram @milmast with your projects. Thank you so much for watching!! ❤️ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I've been making my mounts for 3 years now doing this. I've never had a problem out of it & I can testify that the 3M is the better of his 2 options! Glad to see some people are picking this trick up though!
When you say the 3M is better, what do you mean? Does it ride more comfortably? Does it last longer? Both?
What difference is there in terms of vibration?
@@wellnesspathforme6236 If you are asking that question, put in loctite for engine mounts.
Same I use to break mounts all the time in a built Honda engine. Used the 3M that was 4 years ago…
Wondering about making rear axle and front control arm jounces for the Dodge Ram gen2... maybe using a SORTA-Clear 37 mold for future trials. Seems like for the expense of the mold material and thinking using a softer material like the Loctite, since reads is a shore A 40, will work suitably. Thinking I might even be able to restore my old mounts that are missing the rubber where I place the cleaned metal on the mold and cover to adhere thoroughly. Any thoughts?
How much vibration you feel on steering By installing the Mount?
Keep in mind that these polyurethane caulks/sealants/adhesives are ONE PART MOISTURE CURING polyurethanes. If you cast them too deep they won't cure properly. On non porous surfaces you should add a very fine mist of water. Some products can also foam or have voids, so beware. TWO PART polyurethanes will cure no matter what the thickness is.
Could you give more insight on the depth that is acceptable for casting? I have rear diff mounts that cannot be removed easily so the one part poly is a good application for me. Do you water mist the poly after applying it? I would think the water would evaporate rather quickly. Does applying heat (180F) enable better curing?
I`ve done this with soft(shore A stiffness =37) poliutherane called SIKA 11 FC. Only difference is that i did not fill mount completely, I left little bit od empty spaces on the end of mount in order to achieve low vibration and allow bit of engine movement. Everything is perfect, engine movement exists but is it is much smaller and no vibration at all. Try this way and you will be very satisfied!!!!
Still all good? Planing to try for my scooter.
You can use a little mineral spirits on your finger tip to smooth it better and make it look a lot better
This video was perfect timing. I recently purchased all new mounts and was slacking on the install. I think I'll go with the locktite, as my wife drives it more than I do, and would rather a little more comfort. The stock mounts have over 170K miles on them, so I know anything will be an improvement.
I would go with the Loctite as well for your car :) Let me know how it goes!
@Edward Green, Jr
How did the locktite work for you?
Thanks for doing the research and testing so the rest of us can learn from your mistakes. Good video.
Thank you Shane! Share it with your buddies :)
L I'm excited
That throw back tho when he use to do all these type of diy love it!
YEAH BUDDY!!! More to come
I just repaired the transmission mount on my 2003 caravan. Filled the areas with locktite pl2 construction adhesive the two days ago . After filling it set over night help placed to under the hood and drive 40 minutes. Actually the one that I got free from the junkyard was the one I filled it was in reasonable condition. I took it for a short ride just now and it worked great so far…
I've been using the roof flashing polyurethane for yrs even used a thin film of it on the water seals on my rotery Rx7 engine 9000 miles so far no leaks. Also works great for weather seal repairs on doors ect.
I did this recently but ended up going with 80a liquid casting/molding urethane from McMaster Carr, ~$35 with shipping I believe. Filled a total of four mounts. They also sell it in higher and lower durometer for different applications. Much less viscous than the windo-weld, it fills every nook and cranny and cures perfectly flat. It's between the consistency of maple syrup and honey for about an hour at room temp until it sets. Takes either 24 hours at 180F or a week at 70F to fully dry/cure which is the major disadvantage. I stuck mine on a baking sheet perched on top of some furnace piping (maybe 100-110F) and they felt fully cured within 48 hours.
awesome when I redo mine ill do this. I look the hardness cause after it while it breaks in. mine is 3m windscreen sealant. testifying 3 years now. Honda prelude f20b n management
Thanks a lot for this kind of research! I’m a mechanic part time while working a 9-5 full time and I’m going to recommend this to my customers when they take a OEM Mount to me for installation.
I been through 3set of mounts in 2years with my slightly mod camry lol I just bought a new set couple weeks ago and I'm glad I found this video 💪💪 I'm going to try it asap . Thanks brotha 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I used the loctite on my daily I like how firmer it is without super crazy vibrations. Its much stiffer my 60ft had less wheel hop also. They have a little vibrations but nothing crazy I would recommend for daily driven cars
That look of pure joy at 10:07 minutes is gold.
I did this with my r56 when I put a reman long block in due to burn down on cyl3. It took awhile to cure completely, but definitely made a difference. ...apart from more vibration.
Also painted my engine bay nardo and the upper tie bar (radiator support cross member) blue to match the rest of the car. 😁
How much u let it sit to cure
Great video man, very informative for those less mechanically inclined. Great work. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it 👊
This is very interesting definitely gonna try it !!!
Thanks for the in depth video. Gonna beef up my bushings on my control arms on my audi. Cheers from Canada
Just found this channel and love the content! Watchedthe header install and this. Already got a new subscriber here
Hey, Milan. If you had to guess (or maybe you know from using your durometer), what do you think the hardness of the OEM rubber used in stock mounts is?
Thank you for your video and time. Done like a pro. Good luck with future mods!!🔥💯
That’s honestly a great idea! Loving the car and can’t wait for the swap!!
Coming soon!
I did this to one of my diesel MBs because those motor mounts are notorious for collapsing shortly after install. It was awful. 😭 I used a shore 30 Loctite poly because I wanted it to be soft to prevent transmitting a lot of vibration, but to be just firm enough to help the mount maintain its shape. It vibrated like an absolute nightmare. Cold starts would shake the entire car visibly from outside and when hot the AC compressor being spun vibrated it just as much. It drove ok once you were in gear and moving with higher engine rpm, but idling was pure misery. I took them out and bought another set of mounts and put them in which eliminated that vibration. That was only shore 30! I almost went with a 50 or 60 and that would have probably rattled the rearview mirror off the windshield. For a daily driver, I will not personally use or make poly motor mounts again in the future. A track car I would, but not a daily.
@mannys great advice. I agree totally.
I find that interesting because I wouldn't say it is that bad with the harder durometer poly that I used. I wonder if it has to do with the design of the mount itself. You can for sure feel some vibrating, but considering this is my daily, I wouldn't say it is unbearable, or even too harsh. I'm content with my mounts now. They're much better than the sloppy stock parts. I wonder how much of a difference there is between i4s, to V6s, to i6s, etc, and the vibrations.
Of course it will really vibrate a lot considering your using the polyurethane into a diesel engine. Usually a diesel engine has a longer stroke than bore making it provide more torque.
More stroke means more torque and more torque means more vibrations. And its more noticeable in diesel engine with lets say 4 cylinders than with more cylinders.
@@longlegsescueta2335 Not entirely correct. Besides, this was an IDI 2.2 liter engine with a redline of 5,000 rpm. It's in the class of "high speed diesels." IDIs are different beasts than DIs; much smoother and much faster revving.
Mercedes designed the 2.3L 4 cylinder gas engine with hydraulic motor mounts. They designed the 2.2L diesel with solid rubber mounts. If what you say is 100% correct, Mercedes made a grave error with one of the (seemingly) most basic design elements. We're talking about 1980's Mercedes Benz. They did not make those kinds of mistakes. 😉
I. Using pl loctite roof n flashing rated 30a, it's completely like stock. And wish I gone for something slightly harder.
I had aftermarket mounts on my RSX and it wasn't that bad. You feel the vibrations when idling but once you drive off it's butter smooth!
Couldn't agree with you more! I love them!
I put innovative mounts On my 07 v6 accord, I only feel hard vibrations when start the engine and put it in drive but driving feels like a dream compared to shitty oem ones, im planing to do the 3m windo weld to the trans mounts
Great info! I need to make custom mounts to put a 4.7L V8 in my Jeep JK.
The "AHH..!!" at 11:08 sold me on the 3M stuff. SOLD!!
walking into The Home Depot now to try to buy this stuff.
Thanks for the video.
Good idea, very good alternative to performance engine mounts witch are like 400$ a set.
Thank you! Its very handy too if someone doesn't have the option for aftermarket mounts
The way you brought the vid so good broo
4:15 You would be wrong thinking that. ANY part coming from the factory warehouse has a coating applied to it to prevent surface rust before its sold to someone. This is why youll notice Metal things might feel a bit "slimy" or oily brand new.
Yes, that's what it's like to have engine mounts...lol
I Use the 3M as well and it works perfectly.
I just did this today so speaking from experience, Smooth-On Smooth-Cast is SO MUCH BETTER AND FIRMER THAN 3M WINDOW WELD. I PREVIOUSLY HAD WINDOW WELD ON MY DIFF MOUNT BUT SMOOTH-CAST 300 IS 100X BETTER AND LONGER LASTING!!
I've done this with the Loctite on two of my mounts. Yeah, you can feel more vibrations. But the mounts will last "forever". Lol
What's funny about this? I'm missing what you're laughing about.
when u got a sports car, vibration is not a big deal... i'd rather have a responsive car than a little more vibration
@@djmussy18 BULLCRAP, mounts are designed to cancel out vibrations, when u alter that you destroy the car ride feel! resonance is not good for anything the frame or your nerves ! , AUTO manufacturers spend millions of dollars ! dealing with resonance !Which can even fracture the strongest metals!
Honestly, it seemed like a terrible idea, trying to replace a car part with something homemade, but apparently there is no problem, thank you very much, I did not know about this!
Hey thanks for the video, im thinking of doing this with my mounts, but im not sure if i should do it with the windo weld or the loctite.
11:07 when you don’t miss second gear ... lol great video man definitely going to give this a shot!
What’s the result after a year?
Gonna be using this method for differential bushings! Drift car stuff
Good luck!! 💪
According to 3M this product has a Shore hardness of 60. Hello Jeff,
Thank you for contacting 3M,
The 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Super Fast Urethane, 08609 has a shore A hardness of 60. Unfortunately we do not have an adhesive with that hardness.
Regards,
Don V.
U.S. Business Services Operations
For your daily, it’s better to use the harder product in the torque strut only.
Use the softer product or just bare stock mounts for the engine and trans.
It’s the best of both worlds without rattling your teeth out.
This is so untrue. Did you not watch the video? Don’t listen to this guy, guys. All polyurethane mounts will last at least 5x longer and much better shifting. Saving a lot of money in the long run.
gonna do the locktite poly on my 1990 civic hatch.... mounts are all torn and need replacement. going to do an experiment will check back in a week
I wonder if you mixed the Pro Line and the 3M Window Weld if they would give you something like a 55 Shore A hardness?
Interesting. It'll be good to see how it all pans out longer term
3 weeks later, no problems! I will update regarding these mounts.
It's only for boy racers driving on flat roads.
@@louvendran7273 Not true; that may be who predominantly utilises this hack, but it is actually helpful when your engine mount , and even generic version, is not available. My daily ride has been sitting for two months due to lack of production due to COVID. Now, I will attempt this. I would rather have a little more vibration than not being able to use it at all.
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Great video. I will use the 3M to repair my rear mount that is still on the car. Cannot remove it because I refuse to drop the subframe to get to the mounting bolts. Hoping this gets me by for a while longer. Thank you
I hope it works for you! 👍
Very nice work thank you for your education to us .
I see the question has been asked a few times but no answers. I have a 08 Subaru Outback and need to replace/repair the front lower control arm bushings BUT I don't have a spare ride. Any suggestions of whether to use the 3M or Loctite for this application AND what is the drying time for each of the two products considering the relative thickness being used??
I have a very off brand atv thats impossible to find a arm bushings for. Its for my daughter so it's either fix it or sell it. Gonna try this and see if it will hold every thing in place
Fantastic diy car hack. Awesome!
Nice video. How much softer was the poly to the oem mounts? Would you say it would be a waste of time to use that polyurethane?
Hey how hard is the loctite ? I want to do this to my LCA bushings, which one would u recommend for bushings ?
I feel like I should drill the mounts where they need the most reinforcement, window weld the "tubes" and caps to do sorta the torque solutions thing, ideally keep NVH reasonable but get less deflection
If you want negligible power loss thru the OE mounts, solid mounts are the way to go...however vibration will be maximum and likely too annoying for most DIY'ers...
Very true!!
Do you recon it's good for a 20 year old car? Defo not a daily but sure would give a longer life as it's dry stored at min sure wouldn't hurt right? Might try when it's on the road depending how badly abused they are but thanks keep us updated and would be good to see different grades of polyurethane if there are any
The two part liquid urethane @ 60 spec would work better to fill. You can drill holes to give them some flex.
Yea he literally is still just on stock mounts packed with poly. It’s no where near running a full aftermarket poly mount.
Nice little quick fix vid, sorted 👍👍😜
👍
thanks for the durometer rating!
Well son of a gun... Thanks for getting the durometer tester. I never would have thought it would be hard enough
Thanks this is great!! How is it going now? You have been wearing it for months now.
Please update with the review
Great vid i was thinking about doing something like this now i will
Had replaced all my bushes with polythane and because my vehicle wasn't used for a few years the brushes disintegrated.
I went back to the original rubber and haven't had a problem since.
What kind of mounts were they? You shouldn't ever need to replace them long term, unlike the rubber.
@@milanmastracci they were red nolathane and have been told since that unless they are being used regularly then what happened to mine ,would occur .
@@milanmastracci i went back to NOS rubber mounts
Its a great diy trick. Id probably use masking tape and try and get things smoothed and looking as factory as possible but thats just my ocd.kicking in....remove the tape for a clean finish. The degreasing idea is wise not something ive thought of before.....maybe also finish with brake cleaner.
Nice job
Nicely explained
Thx for this, ill try it..grate job..
Could add rubber grains to the poly and mix it up before adding it to the voids , it might allow the mounts to dampen the vibration.
Does filling the motor mounts with poly does that lower the vibration inside the car? Besides making them more durable and stiff?
Mod reminds me of the old school guys who used to switch out to solid rubber mounts.
Hello, in discription you metion about 3M hardness of 80 but in datasheet they wrote 55-60. Do you think the Elongation is also important? The 3M has 700%. In europe we doesnt have this product, so i found a sealant with 380% elongation and 60 shore A based on Polymeer.
I see you can order different thickness from a place like McMaster Carr. The offer 60a in a liquid and I'm thinking of trying that route.
Im going to try this out as a temp fix until I can order a set of legit urethane mounts , good thing they make complete set for my current ride . I've used them in my previous car and I loved them .they feel solid af 😎👌
And then???
Heading to Home Depot to start this process
Thank you. Great video.
Glad you liked it!
Great video man,but where in the description is what exactly to buy and where from
Thanks 😊
I would love to watch what you did to the front motor mount, I know it is vacuum operated. So please show how you did that one!!
I am thinking an expanding polyurethane foam first, then a soft urethane waterproof panel adhesive as the last quarter inch might be better for street use. Adding Fluid Film spray from a Lowes store every fall would keep the surface from getting age cracks later.
Use Berkebile PFC instead of fluid film. It has a higher lanolin content and lasts 15x longer
what about auto trans bearing etc... wear now that there less give? I would think you would want to align everything well in that engine bay
How is the temperature resistance? The mount I want to put the 3M into is very close to the exhaust and will be exposed to a lot of heat that does tend to soften up some of the aftermarket all-polyurethane mounts available for it
Hey milan great video man!! Quick question? How many tubes of the 3m product did you use for all your 5 mounts? Thanks!
I bought 3, but only ended up using 2.
Flexane 80 is the best product for filling rubber mount cavities. It’s a proper 2 part urethane rubber.
The UK military has been using Flexane for 50+ years to field repair many types of mount & much more
Did my MK1 GTI in the 80's with this stuff & sold loads @GTI International over the years
Good to see old ideas still being used
Seen this years ago but now they can work for me 🙏🙏
Happy to hear that brother!
Hey man I got hydraulic motor mounts for the front and rear mounts on my accord is it airplane worth doing this for both transmission mounts and upper passenger engine mount those are the only ones I can use this technique for the hydraulic mounts are solid rubber and no place to fill them with the 3m and trash
Thanks for the specs on the shore A values. Was wondering about making rear axle and front control arm jounces for the Dodge Ram gen2... maybe using a SORTA-Clear 37 mold for future trials. I was also thinking about somehow using instead of hockey pucks that are the softer foam material for the youth, using old tire treat material since is usually a shore A 60. Seems like for the expense of the mold material and thinking also using a softer material like the Loctite, since reads is a shore A 40, will work suitably. Thinking I might even be able to restore my old mounts that are missing the rubber where I place the cleaned metal on the mold and cover to adhere thoroughly. Also, maybe can use some old tire rubber inside like super glued to the mount for a little more stiffness under load. Any thoughts?
After reading the data sheets noting they PL 30 is a 25-30 shore A and movement capability of 35%, I'm wondering if some PL 20 I found I had around is a little better since even noting a shore A of only 25 though has a higher PSI potential and a lesser 25% movement capability. Think I'm going to try using for jounces if the tubes aren't seized up since most likely is way expired.
Interesting reading the datasheet for the 3M Window Weld notes a shore A of 55-60 and an elongation of 700%.
Looks like GEOCEL 68103 reports a shore A of 45 and an elongation of 881%
Cool tip...nice one dude
You finally tried it out ;)
LOL I needed some sort of upgrade
Can use for control arm bushing? It seems 3m durometer test up to 75a..i think enough shore hardness,better than stock only 60a.. it’s correct 3m 75a? Becaus on TDS 3m only 50-60a. Thanks
76! Thank you!
I used Loctite 'Window and Siding' polyurethane sealant instead of the 'Roof and Flashing' version. Main difference I can see is that my stuff is white. Still waiting for it to dry so hopefully it'll work as well.
How is the result.
What happened now
Awesome thank you very much
My engine mount is directly under cat converter (like 10cm below). Since polyurethane isn’t heat resistant, is it gonna catch fire or melt? Thanks
Can you speed up the curing of the sealant with a little heat???? How long curing time
What’s the consequences or what wear should be looking for that could be obvious from too much engine movement or transmission movement on your vehicle , with worn out mounts & bushes
Fyi, the caulking gun contains a puncture tool.
Actually? lol where?
Under the front, should have a long needle like thing on a swivel, should also have a cutter integrated into the trigger/handle side
The caulk gun also has a nozzle cutter, usually located in the handle. Look for a hole where you insert the nozzle tip, then it gets cut when you squeeze the handle.
Also pro tip on caulking for a perfect finish, spit on your finger, then use your finger to put a nice clean finish on the top of the caulk. The spit doesnt allow the caulking to stick to your glove. This is the difference between a small minded caulk man, and a huuuuge caulk mind.
@@milanmastracci I just used goop we will see how that works 🤣
Ey! Chris FIX here! :) nice tutorial, been watching all your Chris fix videos!
You !!! Lol... what a troll. Good one. Had me thinking I commented.
I would be curious to see how the loctite mounts would make the car ride . I'm sure it's better than stock.
Probably not noticable to be honest. Ive worked around it enough to know its not doing much for stability, its more or less adding longevity to the set up by adding more meat for the vibrations to deteriorate less on the actual plastic. If he was using some jb weld or something id say it would make a difference but most caulkings aside from geocil dry pretty rubbery.
Thanks alot!!!
Nice!
My rear mount is toast and has been on order for 4 months now, dealer thinks manufacturer is changing who they source though, they just keep pushing the date back. Can’t even find a used one. Do you think this could salvage my mount? It’s so bad the flexing has destroyed my exhaust flex pipe.
3M window weld is the BEST by far.
I would have used a lint-free rag and wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol. This would aid in adhesion of the poly to the substrate.
Am curious, what if you put cavities in those mount with polyurethane by drilling it through end to end as if acting as an absorber or shocks? Will this lessen the stiffness? Also have a broken mount so I just plan to fill it with polyurethane instead of removing the broken rubber the perhaps drill to lessen stiffness.
Could add rubber grains to the poly mix before adding.
@@user-ux9ll3yk5y Was thinking also putting nails to those spaces acting as the original spaces when putting the poly then removing it once cured.
@a.sarmiento5116 yeah that could work , tho long screws might be better as removing them would be easier.
Iv got very soft rubber grains from when I worked in an injection moulding company but haven't tried using them yet .
I wonder if these hold up over time. Any chance you can do an update video?
Good Vid!