Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 5 Pistons, Cylinders, Heads & Len Hoffman [BB Build Week 19]
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- In this episode we'll set the ring gaps, measure the deck height, install a modified type 1 oil pump and cover, fill the cylinders with KB pistons, and put the cylinders on the case. We'll also visit with the undisputed king of type 4 heads...Len Hoffman from HAM (Hoffman Automotive Machine).
Please consider becoming a patron at / iankarr for exclusive content, monthly zoom calls and swag. Plus you'll get the full interview with Len....
Vendors and Products mentioned in this video:
www.914rubber.com
European Motor Works (Pistons, Rings, Cylinders)
www.europeanmot...
HAM (Hoffman Automotive Machine - Heads)
newsite.hamhea...
Jake Raby:
aircooledtechno...
Oil Pump and sealing nuts:
www.aircooled.net
Curil K2:
www.pelicanpar...
Curil-T
www.amazon.com...
Loctite 510
www.amazon.com...
Remember, I'm an amateur mechanic and videos like these can't replace professional experience. Be safe and enjoy!
![Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 6 - Valve Train Geometry & Jake Raby! [Pr. Bumblebee ep 21]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rPkHNxrvdbs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 6 - Valve Train Geometry & Jake Raby! [Pr. Bumblebee ep 21]](/img/tr.png)
![Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 7 - Pushrod Tubes, Cooling, Alternator [Pr. Bumblebee Ep 23]](/img/n.gif)
great series👍
Thanks!
Nice work and very nice explained. I’m going to do the pistons , cylinders and heads tomorrow for my 912e and found your videos.
Very nice, thanks
Sounds good, Ruben. Glad you find the videos helpful. You'll also want to watch the valve geometry video. Please subscribe for more (it's free!).
Thanks Ian! You’re Working with the Best, Jorge, Len & Jake! That engine will be better than OE!
Thanks Graem. I'm really fortunate to have their help!
I guess Im asking randomly but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I love any help you can give me
@Brandon Malik instablaster :)
@Esteban Arthur thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Esteban Arthur it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
IIRC, the Haynes manual shows the profile of the compression rings and which whey they go in.
One tip for filing rings: Once you know how much material you have to take off, make a pen mark on the ring and file up to that mark. Then you can start checking and filing and checking and filing and.... It's probably a good idea to clean any remaining ink off the ring once you're done.
Great tip, Dave. Thanks!
Really impressive, Ian.
Thanks man!
Hazet makes a great ring compressor for all vw air cooled motors where you can compress the rings with the piston installed on the rod already with wrist pin and clips installed and then push cylinder in place over rings and then release pressure off and unhook band off piston and remove tool. Ring compressor is adjustable for different diameter pistons. It was a factory approved tool sent to dealership.
Very cool Nick. Can you post a link?
@@IanKarr it is available at kctool.com. Hazet 794U-3. I’m still the original owner of a still original 73 914 2.0. That tool sits in my toolbox at home. Hope that helps.
Interesting. Definitely something to consider when they're back in stock. Thanks!
@@IanKarr I believe that was a Canadian distributor,you might want to check a Hazet tool dealer in the US. I have never broken a Hazet tool,very good quality.
Ahhhh, a trip down memory lane, Ian. It's been a while since I've assembled a VW motor, esp a Type-4. My first one was a 40-horse Type-1 in 1971 when I was 17. The most recent was a big-bore (1720cc) Type-616 for my '66 912 a few years ago. I pass by George's place at least once a month ... I need to stop in and say hi - haven't since the virus was released on us :(
Time for another type 4!
Excellent video Ian!! lots of great information!!! Thanks!!!👍🏻
Thanks, Jose! Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome as usual!
Thanks, Steve. Please subscribe if you haven't already...lots of fun stuff coming up.
Enjoyed this episode 👍 sort of hoping I don't need to go this far, but also love this side of engine building so secretly want to do an engine build😁
it's a slippery slope ;)
Top notch Ian!
Thanks, Michael!
I just installed one. Mine must be older as there was no screw hole at the top. I don’t use the lubricant as I have found that it makes it more difficult to keep it in the channel. Start same as you fitting top corner then I placed the inner edge into the trim piece all the way down. Without the lubricant it stays in place. I then used the plastic tool to work in the outer lip. After getting the short curved section in I worked from both ends to make sure it was well seated in the curve. Again not being lubed it stays in place without effort. I then worked down to the end. Took me about 20 minutes total. I now need to figure out what to do about the lack of screw. I can’t get the removable top to go on but without the screw I haven’t pushed hard.
Thanks for sharing your method!
Excellent!
Glad you liked it!
watched another assembly the other day and noticed you do not use much oil especially on the oil pump gears. the other person also made the dudgeon pins fit smoothly. cleaned all parts with brake clean as well.
Thanks for watching! I didn't add a lot of oil on the pump gears because they're partially submerged when oil is added to the sump. Not sure what you mean about the wrist pins. They went in great. I try to keep everything hospital clean. If I showed every single step, these videos would be hours long ;)
nice bandaid! ;)
They don't call it 'knuckle busting' for nothing....
Ian. Love the videos that you do on the 914. Just wondering if you ever did one on replacing the injectors on a 1.7 or equivalent while the engine is in the car? Thanks!
Hi Thomas! I haven't done a video on injector replacement, but it's super simple and can be done with the engine in the car. You simply remove the fuel supply line and plug it with a bolt and clamp. Then remove the fuel rails and the metal oval-looking pieces which hold the injectors in. Then pull the rails and injectors out, swap and put back in. There are two rubber bushings you should replace on each injector. I'd also recommend sending the injectors to Mr. Injector for testing and cleaning. Good luck!
Hey Ian ., I’m setting deck height on my 2056. I too had .025 deck on my motor just as you. To get mine to. 8.6 CR I need a additional .065. It has to be the difference in the heads. Do you happen to know the chamber CC’s? If Len built your heads he probably stamped the volume the chambers held when he matched the chambers. Somewhere we got a lot of difference. Thanks
It could be the heads or the cylinders. Or both. I don't recall the volume of the heads off the top of my...head ;). I wanna say they were 63cc???
Thanks Ian, that would be about right. I ran the numbers on a fictitious.043 deck with a compression ratio of 8.5 and found I would need to increase my my head volume by 9cc’s. I have 52 cc’s currently so adding 9 to 52 gets real close to 63. Thanks again for the help.
Love the series ! Why don't you use a cheap Gopro on any mount for filming your work on the bench ? Using 2 hands is faster and safer....
Hi Remco. Glad you like the videos! I use a tripod for 90% of the shooting, but sometimes for very close-up shots or ones that involve movement it's best to go handheld. Unfortunately there's nothing fast about making these videos ;)
You were cleaning the oil pump gears before putting them in and mounting the cover. Its not possible for the pump to suck any oil while the gears are not covered with oil.
Thanks for watching so closely! In the type 4, the gears are submerged in oil after a little over a quart is poured into the engine. (per Jake Raby)
Hey Ian, when you washed your pistons in the DW what type of soap did you use? Thanks
a tiny bit of cascade
Excellent video. I wonder if you can help me find those barrel shims. I ran the part number that you show on the Empi shims and I could not find it anywhere. Please help. Thanks
Hi Motor. Try European Motor Works. here's a link to their shims page. And please subscribe if you haven't already...fun stuff coming!
www.europeanmotorworks.com/vw/type-4-shims.html
Ian, thanks for doing these videos, they are well done and very informative. Question - when you sent your engine case to European MW, did you have them inspect and suggest work needed? I visited their website and it has a long list of services to offer, but I need an expert to inspect and recommend what needs to be done.
Thanks, Mal. Len Hoffman at HAM actually inspected my case and then sent it to Jorge for align boring. But I'm sure Jorge can evaluate your case for you.
@@IanKarr Thanks Ian, so start with HAM for the inspection and decking.
@@malhickok8537 not sure Len is doing that work anymore you might want to give him a call…
@@IanKarr Talked to Len this week, he only sells heads now.
Hi, I start a type 4 rebuid and your videos have been a great help!!
Where you get the 26mm oil pump for the t4?
Thanks
Hi Manuel. Thanks for watching and good luck with your build! I got the 26mm pump from either aircooled.net or the type 4 store...I can't remember which ;)
@@IanKarr thanks a lot!!👍
@@IanKarr Hi Ian, thanks for these videos lots of solid info. Did you end up having the oil pump blueprinted or modified besides what is mentioned ? Oil pressure doing well? I Have a similar build here, been hung up on the oil pump for a minute.
Thanks JB
Hey Ian, just wondering where you bought your ring gap grinder?
I think amazon
Surprised you didn't blueprint the oil pump. Oh well. 👍
Actually, I did...but don't tell anyone ;). Seriously...I didn't want these videos to be hours long, so I had to simplify and leave stuff on the editing room floor.
@@IanKarr
Nothing wrong with a 2 hour video,if it has a lot of detailed info. Just my opinion.
@@IanKarr
Glad to know, the oil pump got modified. 👍
@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle Yeah...except that it would take me 4X as long to make! ;) LOL. Seriously, I enjoy doing this work, but it amazes me that 75% of the people who watch these (free) videos week after week don't even bother subscribing...which is also totally free. Those subscriptions mean a lot to the growth of my channel. That said, a bunch of amazing people have asked how they can help me make more & better videos...so I started a patreon channel (www.patreon.com/iankarr). I post exclusive content there and we have monthly live zoom chats from my garage. Some great video suggestions come from those zooms. Come join us!
@@IanKarr
Okay, you're one of those $$ guys. I won't leave any more comments.
Hi Ian, Hoping you can help me. I have 1970 1.7 and it just started making a ticking noise sounding like lifters. Any idea what this is? The engine was a little low on oil but I filled it up again.
Probably needs a valve adjustment. If you have hydraulic lifters, they may need to be pumped up. How long has it been sitting?
@@IanKarr It doesn't sit very long - I typically use it once a week. I have never heard of hydraulic lifters, how do I know if I have them? Do you have guidance on doing this job?
@@michaelsteel688 the only way to tell if you have hydraulic lifters is to pull one...or try to adjust the valves. They’re “springy” so they don’t remain firm like solid lifters. You could also drive the car a bit and see if the tapping goes away when warm. I’d do a valve adjustment if it’s been more than 3K miles anyway. There are lots of resources on how to do that on 914world.com. If the tapping doesn’t go away after that, it could be the beginnings of a dropped valve seat.
Whats the diameter of the pistons to make it 2056cc??
96mm
Do you not recommend hoping the cylenders?
The cylinders came pre-honed.
haha you are bloody as fuch. I get it.
um...thanks?