Thanks so much for watching. If you like these videos, please give a 👍, subscribe and hit the 🔔 . I make these videos alone in my garage and your subcriptions motivate me to keep making them. I try to answer all comments quickly. Be safe and enjoy the addiction!
Ian - another great vid. I did this in mine a year or two ago, and now I'm going to do the console gauges, as well. This is a great refresher course for me. Thanks for all your help.
I don’t have a 914 but I do have 68 VW beetle I’m turning into a canyon runner and I have been looking for gauges of that era that would look good in my car. I think LED 914 gauges will hit that mark nicely.
Like, always, great video! I am back watching your video again while redoing my 914lights and have a question, do you know what the red material is to illuminate when the gas get low? It looks like it’s some sort of a red plastic film it, if you have a source, I would appreciate it!
Hi, I have a 914 with the 911 cluster and sb 350 conversion. What is the top red light in the oil/temp gauge that has a B in a circle for? It was blinking without touching the brake. This was after driving and noticed my brakes were acting like my calipers were sticking. When I got where I was going the brakes acted fully applied and it wouldn't roll at all like the emergency brake was applied but don't even have one. I did recently replace the master cylinder and have a full pedal. After a bit it will roll freely again. I press on the brake and the light blinks. The reservoir is full. I thought I was careful to put the hoses back on in order on the master cylinder, could that be this issue if they were swapped around by chance? Thanks for any advice!
Sounds like something in the brake circuit isn't happy. There's a switch on the MC which you can try resetting. If you have calipers that drag, you may want to explore a rebuild. Try reaching out to pmbperformance.com
It doesn't look like the ones I bought are still available. It was a roll like this... in warm white. www.amazon.com/Flexible-6000-6500K-Waterproof-Lights-Bright/dp/B00X5MEHGS/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1SSHCUWB47A42&keywords=led%2Blight%2Bstrip%2B12v&qid=1661121731&sprefix=led%2Blight%2Bstrip%2B12v%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-26&th=1
I have found a paint can key tool like from home depot makes a real good tool for bending the ring off! A little time on a sander to round and sharpen it
Ian, I have reviewed this video and the article noted from 914 World as well and found them to be extremely helpful. However, as one who is an extreme novice in auto wiring, I would appreciate any additional guidance you could offer regarding how the three negative and three positive LED wires coming out of the gauges are wired into the car. As shown, the three negative are spliced together, where you stated that it would be hooked into the brown ground wire of the harness, but where exactly is this located? In regards to the positive wires, you stated you would be hooking them up separately to the car but where exactly? I realize this is no doubt quite fundamental to everyone else, but would greatly appreciate your further assistance. Thanks, Kevin
No worries at all, Kevin. Before you do anything, please make sure the battery is disconnected. Always disconnect the negative side before the positive side. And be careful your wrench doesn't connect the positive terminal with the chassis...you won't soon forget that experience! The LED grounds are connected together and the (male) spade terminal mates with the brown (ground) wire on the combo gauge. It's been a while, so I'm not sure if you'll need to add another short pigtail so that you can still plug in the ground to the gauges. The positive leads from the LEDs are connected together and you can use any one of the spade terminals which formerly connected to the light bulbs. Those are the black wires with blue stripe. Wrap up the unused gauge lighting wires (black/blue stripe) with electrical tape to avoid shorts. Here's a link to Jeff Bowlsby's diagram for the gauge wiring: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/501595-can-anyone-post-up-wiring-back-gauges-where-goes.html I couldn't find a link directly to his page, but the diagram is in post #2. FYI, in a "negative ground" car like the 914 (and 99% of all cars), the chassis itself is the conduit for the ground. That's why the negative terminal of the battery connects directly to the body. At several points in the car there are groups of brown wires which also attach to the frame. This allows the circuits to be completed with much less wire...as the metal of the car bridges the distance to the negative terminal on the battery. It's also why you need to make sure all of those ground points are clean and solid. In the 914, all solid brown wires are ground wires. Unless someone got "creative". Good luck and be safe!
@@IanKarr I'm still trying to finalize this LED light project, but had a couple of additional questions related to it. The lights do work, but now my tach doesn't. It worked briefly, but then became inoperative. Also, none of the former dash lights work. The reason I would like for these to have power is that I am tapping into one of them in order to power the three gauge bulbs in a center console I purchased as an add on for my 1972. Related to this console, I read that in order to power the voltage gauge, I had to tap into the brake light switch. I have removed the wooden kickpad and located the switch, but it has two different connections going to it. Any insight regarding how to tap into it? Lastly, a vaey basic electirical question (unfortunately not for me), how exactly do you test for ground on a wire? Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, but would appreciate any insight you could offer. Thanks, Kevin
Any chance you know Mike Bruns in Central Florida? He's a Porsche, Master Mechanic, race car driver aficionado. I worked for him in the 80's out of high school. His knowledge and experience reminds me of you.
Nice instructional video...very well presented. Thank you. Where did you get the rings powder coated...seems like such a small job that it might be hard to find someone to do it? Thanks again.
Great Video! I’m doing the same modification and I’m having a hard time removing the gauge cluster. I have removed the steering wheel however the cluster feel like it it tied up on something. I don’t want to force it and break or disconnect any wires before labeling then. Any suggestions?
Hi Ian - yes I did and after doing so I was able to remove the gauge. Do you know if you can also use LED for the center console clock, temp gauge and voltage gauge? Thank you again and I enjoy your videos. You make them very easy to follow and understand.
Ian Karr I got the gear. Started with the speedometer. Got everything apart. Now I’m thinking of wiring the LED strips in with the + and - on the gauges. That way I won’t have to mess with the original light bulb wiring. But then the gauges would be lit at all times. Do you have a pic of what the LED lit gauges look like during daylight?
Depending on the MY of your car the lenses may be plastic & not glass. This is the time to upgrade them. If you are looking for replacement lenses, I know a guy : )
@@IanKarr I have to admit something. I have an odometer that doesn't work and I THINK I fixed that as well. So the LED upgrade was a necessity. The video made it easier, Thanks
Thanks so much for watching. If you like these videos, please give a 👍, subscribe and hit the 🔔 . I make these videos alone in my garage and your subcriptions motivate me to keep making them. I try to answer all comments quickly. Be safe and enjoy the addiction!
Excellent video! I'm impressed by your ability to film and complete these tasks at the same time (using one hand for each).
Ha! Thanks. this was before I decided to give myself the luxury of a tripod...
Ian - another great vid. I did this in mine a year or two ago, and now I'm going to do the console gauges, as well. This is a great refresher course for me. Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for the thumbs up!
I don’t have a 914 but I do have 68 VW beetle I’m turning into a canyon runner and I have been looking for gauges of that era that would look good in my car. I think LED 914 gauges will hit that mark nicely.
Sorry for the delay. Glad you found the video helpful! Good luck with the beetle...
I have a 74 911 and just put leds in the sockets but yours light up and look better, this could be my next upgrade.
Go for it!
Great video, I was wondering what did you use for the power ? Did you hook it up to the headlight switch ? Many thanks
Glad you found it helpful. I got the powers from the same place the stock setup did…the instrument light wiring
@@IanKarr I do appreciate you help.
Great instructional video... I'll be working this into my next free weekend for my 1987 911 Carrera.
Glad you found it helpful. Have fun!
Ian, thanks to your video I just finished modding my 914 gauge cluster. Where did you connect the "hot wires" to?
Congrats! Just connect the hot wires to the female spades that used to power the light bulbs.
Found them Thanks!
Like, always, great video! I am back watching your video again while redoing my 914lights and have a question, do you know what the red material is to illuminate when the gas get low? It looks like it’s some sort of a red plastic film it, if you have a source, I would appreciate it!
Try reaching out to rosco gels. They make gels for the film industry. Ask for a sample book. It'll have all the colors you need in it...
Hi, I have a 914 with the 911 cluster and sb 350 conversion. What is the top red light in the oil/temp gauge that has a B in a circle for? It was blinking without touching the brake. This was after driving and noticed my brakes were acting like my calipers were sticking. When I got where I was going the brakes acted fully applied and it wouldn't roll at all like the emergency brake was applied but don't even have one. I did recently replace the master cylinder and have a full pedal. After a bit it will roll freely again. I press on the brake and the light blinks. The reservoir is full. I thought I was careful to put the hoses back on in order on the master cylinder, could that be this issue if they were swapped around by chance? Thanks for any advice!
Sounds like something in the brake circuit isn't happy. There's a switch on the MC which you can try resetting. If you have calipers that drag, you may want to explore a rebuild. Try reaching out to pmbperformance.com
Hi Ian, are the LED dimmable? Can I use my dim switch the same way? Thank you!
Yes. Mine dim. It doesn't dim smoothly as you turn the switch...but once you have your desired brightness you can set and forget.
Hi Ian. Is there a link for the strip that you purchased. If there is something you can recommend on Amazon or eBay. Thank you!
It doesn't look like the ones I bought are still available. It was a roll like this... in warm white. www.amazon.com/Flexible-6000-6500K-Waterproof-Lights-Bright/dp/B00X5MEHGS/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1SSHCUWB47A42&keywords=led%2Blight%2Bstrip%2B12v&qid=1661121731&sprefix=led%2Blight%2Bstrip%2B12v%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-26&th=1
I have found a paint can key tool like from home depot makes a real good tool for bending the ring off! A little time on a sander to round and sharpen it
That's a great idea. Please post a link to a pic!
Ian, I have reviewed this video and the article noted from 914 World as well and found them to be extremely helpful. However, as one who is an extreme novice in auto wiring, I would appreciate any additional guidance you could offer regarding how the three negative and three positive LED wires coming out of the gauges are wired into the car. As shown, the three negative are spliced together, where you stated that it would be hooked into the brown ground wire of the harness, but where exactly is this located? In regards to the positive wires, you stated you would be hooking them up separately to the car but where exactly? I realize this is no doubt quite fundamental to everyone else, but would greatly appreciate your further assistance. Thanks, Kevin
No worries at all, Kevin. Before you do anything, please make sure the battery is disconnected. Always disconnect the negative side before the positive side. And be careful your wrench doesn't connect the positive terminal with the chassis...you won't soon forget that experience!
The LED grounds are connected together and the (male) spade terminal mates with the brown (ground) wire on the combo gauge. It's been a while, so I'm not sure if you'll need to add another short pigtail so that you can still plug in the ground to the gauges. The positive leads from the LEDs are connected together and you can use any one of the spade terminals which formerly connected to the light bulbs. Those are the black wires with blue stripe. Wrap up the unused gauge lighting wires (black/blue stripe) with electrical tape to avoid shorts. Here's a link to Jeff Bowlsby's diagram for the gauge wiring:
forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/501595-can-anyone-post-up-wiring-back-gauges-where-goes.html
I couldn't find a link directly to his page, but the diagram is in post #2. FYI, in a "negative ground" car like the 914 (and 99% of all cars), the chassis itself is the conduit for the ground. That's why the negative terminal of the battery connects directly to the body. At several points in the car there are groups of brown wires which also attach to the frame. This allows the circuits to be completed with much less wire...as the metal of the car bridges the distance to the negative terminal on the battery. It's also why you need to make sure all of those ground points are clean and solid. In the 914, all solid brown wires are ground wires. Unless someone got "creative". Good luck and be safe!
@@IanKarr I can't thank you enough for such a quick response and additional insight. The 914 community is a great one and you're leading by example!
@@kevintaylor1290 Just paying it forward ;) Welcome to the addiction. Please post a shot of your completed gauge upgrade on 914world!
@@IanKarr Will do!
@@IanKarr I'm still trying to finalize this LED light project, but had a couple of additional questions related to it. The lights do work, but now my tach doesn't. It worked briefly, but then became inoperative. Also, none of the former dash lights work. The reason I would like for these to have power is that I am tapping into one of them in order to power the three gauge bulbs in a center console I purchased as an add on for my 1972. Related to this console, I read that in order to power the voltage gauge, I had to tap into the brake light switch. I have removed the wooden kickpad and located the switch, but it has two different connections going to it. Any insight regarding how to tap into it? Lastly, a vaey basic electirical question (unfortunately not for me), how exactly do you test for ground on a wire?
Sorry to bombard you with so many questions, but would appreciate any insight you could offer.
Thanks, Kevin
Any chance you know Mike Bruns in Central Florida? He's a Porsche, Master Mechanic, race car driver aficionado. I worked for him in the 80's out of high school. His knowledge and experience reminds me of you.
Hi Shane. Sorry...I don't know Mike. But I'm SURE he knows way more than me!
Nice instructional video...very well presented. Thank you. Where did you get the rings powder coated...seems like such a small job that it might be hard to find someone to do it? Thanks again.
Thanks. Glad you liked it. I powdercoated the rings myself using the Eastwood kit and oven. A great setup for things smaller than about 18" x 18"
@@IanKarr Thanks for that info...I'll check out the Eastwood kit.
Great Video! I’m doing the same modification and I’m having a hard time removing the gauge cluster. I have removed the steering wheel however the cluster feel like it it tied up on something. I don’t want to force it and break or disconnect any wires before labeling then. Any suggestions?
Did you disconnect the speedometer cable?
Hi Ian - yes I did and after doing so I was able to remove the gauge.
Do you know if you can also use LED for the center console clock, temp gauge and voltage gauge?
Thank you again and I enjoy your videos. You make them very easy to follow and understand.
Reid Jensen no reason why you couldn’t. Might be easier to just switch to LED bulbs rather than the strips since the gauges are so much smaller
Good point! Thank you again
I really like this mod. Thanks for sharing!
thanks. enjoy!
Love your videos - keep'm coming. :)
Thanks Mike! A bunch more coming soon...
Very cool... just did it to my '75 thank you for the video!
Glad it helped!
Neat mod! But have you had any issues with heat dispersion? I’d say LED strips get warmer than bulbs.
None at all. Seems actually cooler than incandescent.
@@IanKarr good to hear! And does the dimmer work or does that result in flickering?
@@diederickzeelenberg6867 Dimmer works! It flickers a bit as you're adjusting it, but once it's set it's fine
@@IanKarr great I ordered LED strips right away. Couldn't find angled ones though. But that should still beat the weak stock bulbs.
Ian Karr I got the gear. Started with the speedometer. Got everything apart. Now I’m thinking of wiring the LED strips in with the + and - on the gauges. That way I won’t have to mess with the original light bulb wiring. But then the gauges would be lit at all times. Do you have a pic of what the LED lit gauges look like during daylight?
Great job
Thanks Brian!
Depending on the MY of your car the lenses may be plastic & not glass. This is the time to upgrade them. If you are looking for replacement lenses, I know a guy : )
Ha. Yep! Glass is way better. I think the last time I did this upgrade I had a few extra lenses cut. If not, you'll definitely be hearing from me ;)
you rock!
Glad you like the videos!
I'm not sure I'm angry with you yet, because the video convinced me to do the same. I'll let you know!
Ha! Go ahead and be angry. But you'll like this gauge upgrade...
@@IanKarr I have to admit something. I have an odometer that doesn't work and I THINK I fixed that as well. So the LED upgrade was a necessity. The video made it easier, Thanks
@@randyfleet9968 Don't you feel better now?