Nice to see different content now and again . The oil cooler seal material has been used for years and is probably as old as the rest of the seals. In an air-cooled VW motor that does not have hydraulic lifters you are asking for trouble adjusting your valves every 30,000 miles as stated. They should be checked and adjusted with every tune-up and oil change. Checking and adjusting your valves at these times will prevent burnt valves,sucked valve seats and mushroomed valve stems to name a few of the things that end the life of air-cooled VW motors early.
This is great. Been a water cooled guy forever. Now have a 78 bus and a 75 914. Time to be a type4 guy. Haven’t touched an aircooled motor in 30 years and that was just helping my dad. Good job guys.
I owned/bought and sold over fifty 914s over 10 years of driving them exclusively (yeah until that first child came along) back in the 80's and 90's. I started a 914 only repair business that needless to say did not even support my 914 addiction. Tore down and rebuilt more engines than I can remember, including some for customers. . . My first engine rebuild of any kind which was for my first 914, a 1970 tail shifter 1.7, had all kinds of interesting discoveries. . . I did that rebuild twice just for good measure after the dual valve spring heads ate the reground cam that I ignorantly chose to use the first time around. . . The missing cast iron fin material (from the cylinder jug as well as the cooling cavity) in my humble, but most accurate opinion (cough cough) is from a drop. Yeah it's from a drop. Cough cough, been there, done that too, for a customer's car no less. That job was a bust financially for me. Ouch! . . It was a stock engine, and a factory original 2 liter cylinder jug. Luckily a local "real" German car repair shop had some left over factory piston/jugs that happened to come into existence because of accidental dropping too. I had to weigh and balance all the pistons though because there was a difference between the replacement piston/jug and the other original ones. . . I've replaced the uni-body trailing arm supports under the battery tray, welded the sheet-metal reinforcement tabs in the rear trunk for the sway-bar mounting points, built an entire wiring harness from a vw bus wiring loom and the factory correct junkyard parts to put an engine back to fuel injection in order to pass the California emissions tests, rebuilt the D-Jetronic manifold pressure sensors many times, welded the clutch cable tube back to the firewall (yeah that tube next to the fuel line) many times, rebuilt the speedos many times, oh the list goes on. . . I used to go to junkyards just to look for 914s (oh this was way before the internet and online searching) to find valuable parts like the manifold pressure sensors and the factory alloy wheel lugs. . . Automobile Atlanta was the world headquarters for everything 914 back then. I'd buy salvage parts and factory hardware by the pound from them back then. . . Most excitement ever? . . Seeing the flash and fireball come up past my face while I was testing fuel injectors for spray pattern/leakage as they sprayed into a coffee can. . . Pro-tip: use an injector electrical connector and a remote switch, not mini alligator clips to touch the injector contacts, like I was doing. . . If people have questions, I may be able to help. . Comment on this video, and I'll reply.
@@Christoph-br2ui I live in California. Any car that is mandated to be emissions tested is required to have an absolutely stock and originally equipped engine. It doesn't even matter if a modification actually reduces air pollution emissions. The idea behind that mentality has to do with cheating as well as the reality that smog test technicians are not all technically equal, and are in the business of making money, not trying to figure out if someone is cheating. The state of California has what they call "Referee Stations" that are staffed by state employees that are "supposedly" technical experts in emissions control. They have the power to say a particular engine is "permitted" or not. However they can outright say no too, or they can mandate other things related to the engine/vehicle combination, and that little interaction between the state and "you" is forever stored up to force you to comply with the order, and to prevent you from searching for a different, possibly more lenient referee. . . In regards to cheating, it has made major headlines and resulted in billion dollar fines that various vehicle manufacturers have produced vehicles that had the ability to detect WHEN they were being emissions tested, and to adjust the engine operational control (de-tuned) to appear to be within permitted specification. . . As for emissions testing, California had a "stock engine" requirement in 1983 when I bought my first 914, a 1970. If you know your history of the 914, you know that in 1970 there were only two models produced: the 4-cylinder D-Jetronic fuel-injected VW type 4 engine equipped one, and the 6-cylinder Weber carbureted Porsche 911-T engine equipped one. The guy that sold me that first 914 told me that I wouldn't be able to register the car in California because the engine had had the fuel injection system removed and replaced with a single Holley-Weber carburetor, and that it wouldn't pass the "Visual" inspection of the emissions test. . . I had no clue what that was all about. I was just excited to have my "dream car". . . Needless to say, when I went down to DMV to register my new car, they told me that "on change of ownership" vehicles had to be emissions tested, so just go to any SMOG test station and get your car tested. My car was never ever hooked up to an emission testing device because the techs would simply look at the engine and say: "It's not stock. I can't test it." Oh and by the way, I was NEVER able to register that car in my name, in eleven years of ownership. Oh I drove it all across the United States and back to California before 1986, including interacting with law enforcement on four occasions with only one ticket for not having a current registration, but never registered in my name. I finally gave the chassis (no engine) away to some Porsche aficionado. The right side trailing arm support had rusted away, so it needed structural help. That trailing arm support had started to collapse on my way back to California. . . So in regards to emissions testing, understand that what the rules are today are not what they have always been, and not what I had to deal with when I owned 914s, which is now more than 30 years ago . . . For that matter, California has as a method of operation the goal of further reducing total statewide emissions always, so they are constantly attempting and actually eventually legislating older vehicles and engines out of existence. . . As for the differences between a stock 1.7 and a 2.0, it's all about the horsepower. The two liter has more power, so it's more capable when power comes to play, but all 914s have awesome handling, so they are great fun to drive on twisty mountain roads. You can still spin out with any 914 though because of the rear weight bias, so never over estimate the cornering ability. The biggest improvements that can be done with stock 914s are front and rear sway bars, bigger (911-T) front brakes, and tires, and if you have a tail-shifter transmission, to convert it to side-shifter. Beyond those things, it's all about money and engine changes. Take Care.
I have seen cam plugs installed like that on type 1 engines that were used in auto stick cars, the flex plate had a tendency to rub on the cam plug ... I don't know if this applies to the type 4 engines that were used with auto transmissions. Either way, I don't think this is why it leaked there, sometimes they just leak there if you don't use the right sealant or don't use enough of it (I use Permatex aviation sealant). I also don't put the windage tray back on when i get an engine that has it, the tray slows the return of oil back to the sump so much that it is possible to fully drain the sump (and have no oil pressure) at higher rpm, all the oil trapped above the tray.
Putting one of these in my Beetle, c/w Sharpworks carbon fibre upright housing and a 911 cooling fan for the German look. Hoping for about 100bhp with the 96 pistons and dual Weber IDF.
Most likely, those thins broke when someone pryed the head off. Aircooled VWs do overheat, usually drivers dont notice, unfortunately. Head temperature was an issue with VWs weird attempts at emissions reduction on some models, sodium filled valves were a bandaid. Overall they were a very robust engine, look at those rods. Naturally being a VW flat four the crank is a high quality forging, lots of potential in these motors. Still have quite a following in Europe.
Seen cooling fins breaking plenty of times, I started my car journey at 5 years old with getting familiar with beetles (neighbour rented our garage to work on his folkrace bugs. So far 28 years with beetles :)
An excellent presentation. Really interesting and I learned some more about the engine in my car (which is currently in pieces undergoing a rebuild). Many thanks.
Looks like someone built a 1.8 liter engine into a 2056cc version by adding a 2 liter's crank, connecting rods, and the upgraded 96mm pistons and cylinders, but kept the 1.8 liter cylinder heads.
Good to hear the right explanation at the start. It's called a Type IV engine because it was originally in the Type IV car.
Love it, hopefully fcpeuro will start selling vw type 1 2 3 4 parts
Me: I'll watch the first bit to see what's up
Also me 27 minutes later: more 914 please
Nice to see different content now and again . The oil cooler seal material has been used for years and is probably as old as the rest of the seals. In an air-cooled VW motor that does not have hydraulic lifters you are asking for trouble adjusting your valves every 30,000 miles as stated. They should be checked and adjusted with every tune-up and oil change. Checking and adjusting your valves at these times will prevent burnt valves,sucked valve seats and mushroomed valve stems to name a few of the things that end the life of air-cooled VW motors early.
This is great. Been a water cooled guy forever. Now have a 78 bus and a 75 914. Time to be a type4 guy. Haven’t touched an aircooled motor in 30 years and that was just helping my dad. Good job guys.
I appreciate hearing knowledgeable comments about ACVW engines for once- the 1.7 the 914 got was a peppy and rev happy beastie
It had the highest compression ratio of any of the factory Type 4 engines, so it loved to rev up.
I owned/bought and sold over fifty 914s over 10 years of driving them exclusively (yeah until that first child came along) back in the 80's and 90's. I started a 914 only repair business that needless to say did not even support my 914 addiction. Tore down and rebuilt more engines than I can remember, including some for customers. . . My first engine rebuild of any kind which was for my first 914, a 1970 tail shifter 1.7, had all kinds of interesting discoveries. . . I did that rebuild twice just for good measure after the dual valve spring heads ate the reground cam that I ignorantly chose to use the first time around. . . The missing cast iron fin material (from the cylinder jug as well as the cooling cavity) in my humble, but most accurate opinion (cough cough) is from a drop. Yeah it's from a drop. Cough cough, been there, done that too, for a customer's car no less. That job was a bust financially for me. Ouch! . . It was a stock engine, and a factory original 2 liter cylinder jug. Luckily a local "real" German car repair shop had some left over factory piston/jugs that happened to come into existence because of accidental dropping too. I had to weigh and balance all the pistons though because there was a difference between the replacement piston/jug and the other original ones. . . I've replaced the uni-body trailing arm supports under the battery tray, welded the sheet-metal reinforcement tabs in the rear trunk for the sway-bar mounting points, built an entire wiring harness from a vw bus wiring loom and the factory correct junkyard parts to put an engine back to fuel injection in order to pass the California emissions tests, rebuilt the D-Jetronic manifold pressure sensors many times, welded the clutch cable tube back to the firewall (yeah that tube next to the fuel line) many times, rebuilt the speedos many times, oh the list goes on. . . I used to go to junkyards just to look for 914s (oh this was way before the internet and online searching) to find valuable parts like the manifold pressure sensors and the factory alloy wheel lugs. . . Automobile Atlanta was the world headquarters for everything 914 back then. I'd buy salvage parts and factory hardware by the pound from them back then. . . Most excitement ever? . . Seeing the flash and fireball come up past my face while I was testing fuel injectors for spray pattern/leakage as they sprayed into a coffee can. . . Pro-tip: use an injector electrical connector and a remote switch, not mini alligator clips to touch the injector contacts, like I was doing. . . If people have questions, I may be able to help. . Comment on this video, and I'll reply.
I'm curious why you had to do emissions on the car. After 1975, I'm guessing. Regarding driving, is the 1.7 as fun to drive as the 2.0? Thanks
@@Christoph-br2ui I live in California. Any car that is mandated to be emissions tested is required to have an absolutely stock and originally equipped engine. It doesn't even matter if a modification actually reduces air pollution emissions. The idea behind that mentality has to do with cheating as well as the reality that smog test technicians are not all technically equal, and are in the business of making money, not trying to figure out if someone is cheating. The state of California has what they call "Referee Stations" that are staffed by state employees that are "supposedly" technical experts in emissions control. They have the power to say a particular engine is "permitted" or not. However they can outright say no too, or they can mandate other things related to the engine/vehicle combination, and that little interaction between the state and "you" is forever stored up to force you to comply with the order, and to prevent you from searching for a different, possibly more lenient referee. . . In regards to cheating, it has made major headlines and resulted in billion dollar fines that various vehicle manufacturers have produced vehicles that had the ability to detect WHEN they were being emissions tested, and to adjust the engine operational control (de-tuned) to appear to be within permitted specification. . . As for emissions testing, California had a "stock engine" requirement in 1983 when I bought my first 914, a 1970. If you know your history of the 914, you know that in 1970 there were only two models produced: the 4-cylinder D-Jetronic fuel-injected VW type 4 engine equipped one, and the 6-cylinder Weber carbureted Porsche 911-T engine equipped one. The guy that sold me that first 914 told me that I wouldn't be able to register the car in California because the engine had had the fuel injection system removed and replaced with a single Holley-Weber carburetor, and that it wouldn't pass the "Visual" inspection of the emissions test. . . I had no clue what that was all about. I was just excited to have my "dream car". . . Needless to say, when I went down to DMV to register my new car, they told me that "on change of ownership" vehicles had to be emissions tested, so just go to any SMOG test station and get your car tested. My car was never ever hooked up to an emission testing device because the techs would simply look at the engine and say: "It's not stock. I can't test it." Oh and by the way, I was NEVER able to register that car in my name, in eleven years of ownership. Oh I drove it all across the United States and back to California before 1986, including interacting with law enforcement on four occasions with only one ticket for not having a current registration, but never registered in my name. I finally gave the chassis (no engine) away to some Porsche aficionado. The right side trailing arm support had rusted away, so it needed structural help. That trailing arm support had started to collapse on my way back to California. . . So in regards to emissions testing, understand that what the rules are today are not what they have always been, and not what I had to deal with when I owned 914s, which is now more than 30 years ago . . . For that matter, California has as a method of operation the goal of further reducing total statewide emissions always, so they are constantly attempting and actually eventually legislating older vehicles and engines out of existence. . . As for the differences between a stock 1.7 and a 2.0, it's all about the horsepower. The two liter has more power, so it's more capable when power comes to play, but all 914s have awesome handling, so they are great fun to drive on twisty mountain roads. You can still spin out with any 914 though because of the rear weight bias, so never over estimate the cornering ability. The biggest improvements that can be done with stock 914s are front and rear sway bars, bigger (911-T) front brakes, and tires, and if you have a tail-shifter transmission, to convert it to side-shifter. Beyond those things, it's all about money and engine changes. Take Care.
Fascinating. I've never seen a VW engine apart, that's about as simple as it gets.
Fascinating - never worked on an air-cooled engine, but was great to see it all torn apart. Very cool!
Glad you enjoyed it!
2056 are real nice engines... don't be disappointed.
It's the perfect combination because it does not stress the basic engine design or require any additional oil cooling or air cooling modifications.
I have seen cam plugs installed like that on type 1 engines that were used in auto stick cars, the flex plate had a tendency to rub on the cam plug ... I don't know if this applies to the type 4 engines that were used with auto transmissions. Either way, I don't think this is why it leaked there, sometimes they just leak there if you don't use the right sealant or don't use enough of it (I use Permatex aviation sealant).
I also don't put the windage tray back on when i get an engine that has it, the tray slows the return of oil back to the sump so much that it is possible to fully drain the sump (and have no oil pressure) at higher rpm, all the oil trapped above the tray.
Is there a follow up with the rebuilt engine running ?
Putting one of these in my Beetle, c/w Sharpworks carbon fibre upright housing and a 911 cooling fan for the German look. Hoping for about 100bhp with the 96 pistons and dual Weber IDF.
With that combo and a new Type4 Store camshaft, you could easily get 120HP and still have a bullet proof engine.
I learned a lot from this video which makes me love my 912E even more.
Most likely, those thins broke when someone pryed the head off.
Aircooled VWs do overheat, usually drivers dont notice, unfortunately.
Head temperature was an issue with VWs weird attempts at emissions reduction on some models, sodium filled valves were a bandaid.
Overall they were a very robust engine, look at those rods. Naturally being a VW flat four the crank is a high quality forging, lots of potential in these motors. Still have quite a following in Europe.
Hell yea, enjoyed this
Seen cooling fins breaking plenty of times, I started my car journey at 5 years old with getting familiar with beetles (neighbour rented our garage to work on his folkrace bugs. So far 28 years with beetles :)
The thermostat bellow default position is shrunk then it starts expanding as the filled gas gets heated.
That means the cooling fans are in the fully open position when the thermostat fails. Good German engineering back in the day.
An excellent presentation. Really interesting and I learned some more about the engine in my car (which is currently in pieces undergoing a rebuild). Many thanks.
Very interesting...thanks for posting.
I've seen many videos of how to reset service notifications on a E350. I need one from you guys so I can do it correctly. Thanks in advance.
Type 4 cams always need to be replaced because the engine's design causes the cam lobes to wear down a lot.
What is the solution to no documentation on an old vw?
Looks like someone built a 1.8 liter engine into a 2056cc version by adding a 2 liter's crank, connecting rods, and the upgraded 96mm pistons and cylinders, but kept the 1.8 liter cylinder heads.
I hope this engine has sodium filled exhaust valves. My 73 VW bus did not.
Sodium cooled valves came in the 914 2 litre.
No one uses sodium filled valves anymore. Stainless steel valves are better
They just put a " Big bore" kit on it.
Where's the follow up ?
He is still working on it, we haven't stopped asking him!
Skol.