Porsche 914 VW Type IV 2056 Build Part 7 - Pushrod Tubes, Cooling, Alternator [Pr. Bumblebee Ep 23]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- In part 7 of my VW Type IV 2056 engine build, I pop in the pushrod tubes, finish the oil system, put on the cooling tins and install the alternator / belt. With the tins off, you can see how the cooling flaps work and why they're such an important part of the engine's design. Also, if you need to replace your alternator and/or belt, you'll have a clear idea of what's involved.
Parts used in this video:
Allen / socket head bolts for engine tins:
914rubber.com/...
Oil cooler tin seal:
914rubber.com/...
Oil cooler seals:
914rubber.com/...
Tangerine oil pressure relief:
www.tangerinera...
Oil sump gasket set with crush washer
914rubber.com/...
Thread with diagrams for engine tin:
www.914world.co...
And Van's timelapse video of tin installation:
• Porsche 914 engine tin...
This is the most detailed Viedeo I used rebuid Bugs motors in the past. now I am watchhing on TH-cam .Ure the only one who mentioned the Thermostat & cooling flap. Others never show or mention. Thanks Ian.👍👍
Thanks! I'm no expert by any means, but i'm glad you find the videos helpful
Thank you! Every so often I'm thinking "Wait, What?" This has been a great reference.
Thanks, Jeff. Just remember...I'm a newbie!
Great series I am rebuilding a 1700 (VW), and really helped me out, especially with the engine tin and how the flaps for the engine cooling operate. Thanks
Thanks, Ozzie! Glad you found the videos helpful.
OMG, you just reminded me of something. When I got my 73 it was not running, but I got a good deal and I was going to have the engine rebuilt. When I took out the engine, I noticed several blades were broken, and in the sheet metal in front of the fan there was a 10” screwdriver and several chunks of fan! That was not obvious from my examination before buying. Like I said before, some bad memories too.
That would make some interesting noises.
Wow that took me back . A couple of my friends and I played with these type IV’s lumps 30 odd years ago in our buggies and beetles in the Uk. We always ripped out the ‘new fangled’ Injection for Webers , had loads of little bits of tinware and bracket thingy’s leftover after we’d polished and painted everything up , so it was very interesting to see how to build one properly and to find out what that binned injection stuff was actually for ! Thanks for an enjoyable video , amazing to see all the stuff that’s now available now for these
Keep up the great work 👍👍
Thanks much! It's never too late to get another "lump"!
Just a guy discovering AC VW/Porsche engines for the first time and loving all the tech. Now I kinda want a 914 with a good motor and a turbo to have fun with!
Great videos Ian, excellent documenting of the process 😎👍👍
Thanks, Tom!
Just a fair warning, owning a classic VW or Porsche is highly addictive. lol I told myself once I bought my bus, that would be enough and here I am, starting to search for another VW. haha
Just finished this exact process….nice to see we are simpatico…thanks for taking the time, considered it myself…lots of work to record this. Props to you for doing so.
Glad you like the videos. Thanks TJ!
Tremendously useful video as the other episodes are !! thanks
Thanks! Appreciate it.
Looking good Ian. Great vids. A wealth of resources.
Thanks! More fun to come. Please subscribe if you haven't already...
Nice work!
Looks like your thermostat might be sprung, should be 30-33mm when cold. You want to make sure you have full flap operation. They can be rebuilt. There is a grommet that the temp wire goes through on the taco plate, helps keep dirt out of there.
Thanks, Jim. I have a new one on the way from awesome powdercoat...
Spot on, certainly hope not to see some of those parts for some time!
I hope the tubes seal well, we had new seal's on the newly built engine & was leaking, since me resealing we are still dry, seals correct but didn't feel tight until the added paste!
Get video 👍
Thanks man. Appreciate your watching and commenting. Spoiler alert - the engine has about 750 miles on it, runs great and the garage floor is bone dry.
I have the same problem, engine rebuilt two years ago with new gaskets, an expert Porsche mechanic told me that the o-rings are dry and it is necessary to heat the engine to make them settle, I have to find the method to not drain the oil on the exhaust and prevent it from catching fire.
Shhh, we don't do spoilers 😉😁 I'd have to check my video on it, but think I used a paste called Tru-Blu which is a blue like clay paste I could find here in the UK
I love watching anything I could learn from, and supporting, same principles any air cooled 😉👍
Thanks Ian!
You're welcome!
keep up good work some people go backward, ditch fuel injection put old carbs ,pity in USA parts are available .cheers
Thanks! I’ve had a carbed car and they sound a lot better. But I prefer stock FI
I have a set of screwdrivers whose handle is the right size for pushing on the end of the pushrod tube. Just put the end of the handle against the end of the tube, and push!
Is the Loctite product you are using a sealant, or a lubricant? Generally just motor oil is specified for the O-rings, but specific O-ring lubricants are also made and can work well. Of course, there are a few people out there who feel that gooping them in with RTV is the way to go. I disagree with those people, naturally.
I've had difficulty getting the pushrods to sit in the lifter cups, at least when the engine is sitting flat. Most especially when it is in the car. I have used an L-shaped Allen wrench pushed partway down the tube as the fulcrum to lever up the inner end of the pushrod so it can actually slide into the lifter cup. Sometimes I can get it to go with just my fingers, but sometimes I need the Allen wrench.
Thanks for watching, Dave. Cool idea using a screwdriver handle. The loctite 565 is a sealant, kinda like teflon paste. I decided to use it because Jake Raby does. I've used only motor oil in the past and had success with that, too. I suppose it's all about how clean and smooth the bores are. The engine has about 750 miles on it now (spoiler alert-it runs great!) and is totally leak free. I can't say that's solely due to the 565, but it didn't hurt, and I'm not about to look a dry garage floor in the mouth ;). Yeah, being able to tilt the engine definitely helps with the pushrod install.
@@IanKarr
I think I might try that loctite 565 on my TACO plate o-ring next time.
I might have a drip from that other pressure plug too - the one you mentioned ruined using a chisel to tighten. (Yikes!)
Nice job.👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work, looks like you are paralleling Krantz on 914 world!
Yep Seems so. Only my videos are time-delayed by about 4 months ;)
Yep Seems so. Only my videos are time-delayed by about 4 months ;)
Ian- You forgot to install the rubber grommet for the CHT sensor wire in the upper tin before you put the intake manifold on the cylinder 3 & 4 side of the engine. Also, I put a dab of engine assembly lube on both ends of the pushrods so they don’t operate dry when you first crank over and start the engine for the first time. Love the video otherwise!
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Thanks, Mike. Suggestions and tips always appreciated and welcome!
NGK's are just fine.
True. But these look retro cool ;)
Amazing videos, Ian. Did you paint or powder coat your intake manifolds and fan? I've already subscribed 👍👍👍
Thanks Rodney! I painted the intake runners and left the fan as-is since it’s balanced.
Ian are you still planning on doing a video to talk about the expected performance of a 2056 build? Thanks!
Yep! Working on it now…
sweet
Thanks!
Great stuff as usual. Surprised that you didn't replate a bunch of the hardware
Perfect is the enemy of good ;). I decided early on that I wanted to get as close as I could to a #2 car running under its own power in one year's time. A lot of parts were restored. Some weren't. But I'm driving!
@@IanKarr gotcha! Once I start my 944 restoration, I'm not 100% certain but I may go for a #1 car because there's only one time it will be that good once I start driving it
@@jeffhammond8969 The nice thing about this world is that you can go as crazy as you like...it's your car. I like #2 as a target because I don't feel guilty driving it...and yet it cleans up nice enough to be on the lawn at a concours. It may not win, but it'll be respectable. I probably would've gone a little further with the plating, etc. on this car if I didn't move halfway through the build ;). But I'm really happy with how it turned out.
@@IanKarr it's been amazing to watch all the content. How long have you been driving it? Curious to understand the length of time between the videos and current day
@@jeffhammond8969 Yeah, sorry for the spoiler. But I promise the video of the first start will still be exciting. The car ran under its own power on June 27th. It wasn't confidently road worthy till the end of July, and I've been dialing it in since then. As of the end of September, it's 99% there. So...total time from getting it out of the body shop to running car was about 10 months.
Ian - What suspense at this point. Cannot wait to see the next episodes that include the D-Jet EFI install and the initial run. Ahead of that, a question: Will the completely stock 2.0 D-Jet EFI setup accommodate the internals that are increased over stock sizes (96mm Piston size, 44 x 38 Valves) with no adjustments required, for example to the MPS? Same question regarding the exhaust system: Any adjustments or changes needed? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and answers.
Hi Thomas. Glad you're enjoying the series. I'm far from an engine guru, but a 2056 with 96mm pistons and a 9590 cam is a proven combination with stock D-jet and exhaust. The MPS does need adjustment, however to optimize the engine for larger displacement. Please subscribe if you haven't already...lots more to come!
@@IanKarrThanks Ian. Sure hope that you include the MPS adjustment as a future episode (and help uncover those mysteries for us!).
Two questions: Where did you get the torque wrench, and where did you find the torque specifications? Great video!
Glad you like it, Steven! Torque wrench - amazon. The direct link is in one of the earlier engine episodes. Torque specs can be found in a variety of places. I usually go to the Haynes manual first, then online. Please subscribe if you haven't already...lots more to come!
Hello Ian, your videos are fantastic!!!! I´m restoring a Type 4 engine for my Vanagon Camper, I'm looking for the Wiring Suport for the pushrods tubes, can yo tell me were buy this.
Thanks much! Hmmm. I don't know if those wires are being made new. Try European Motor Works in California
How do I join your patriotic group or how do I find it? PS, great engine vids. Hope you can do a few more or maybe you could give us some advise as I'd like to do our own Bus,engine version like yours :)
Hi Matthew. Would be great to see you on our monthly zooms. www.patreon.com/iankarr
I took my engine apart more than 10 years ago to have the block cleaned and tapped, my heads have been sitting (I hope) somewhere in my mechanic's shop.
I'm concerned I'll never be able to get it back together.
No time like the present. At the very least I'd get all the parts back...
Split lock washers on a Volkswagen yeah that never happened. That would be a wave washer for 50 Bob.
Which are you referring to?
I thought there was supposed to be a rubber o ring on the fan hub ? i know there is on a late bus motor for sure 2.0
Yep. There is.
Where’s the spacer washer that goes behind the fan ?
it's there
Hey Ian, I'm working on my cooling flaps right now. Do you know where I can get a new set of plastic spacer/grommets that I can get? mine are really worn down.
Yep. Right here...
914rubber.com/cooling-flap-control-bar-bushing-1
@@IanKarr Thank you so much for getting back to me. Thanks for your videos too. We are going down the same road, but mine is with my 912E.
@@IanKarr Check out my build video. I did n't do any videos during the process though. th-cam.com/video/WwQxRnE0y9c/w-d-xo.html
We have the same car, we are currently working on it but have an issue, we can't install the fuel tank, could you please advice how to handle this tank issue.
when you say you can't install the tank, what's the specific problem?
so the porsche 914 had a vw engine? or how it worked?
Yep. VW type IV
Yup, and I have a 914 1700 in my VW Bus.
Why can’t you use “Hydraulic Lifters “ ? Adjusting the lifters every 6K miles gets old and messy !
These engines were designed for solid lifters. Hydraulics require less maintenance, yes. But they’re out of spec.