Very informational! I was printing a 2.5mm thick large area panel on the bed and then always got the panel thickness to be like 3-3.5mm, probably because my initial layer has peeled from the bed and the UV light cured the material behind it
I dont have a resin printer yet but hopefully soon. BUT this demonstration you made is really nice. It also brings up a good point of where the stress is on resin supports. Keep it up man :)
Thanks!! But for larger objects id definitely use thicker supports or else you have to use tons of smaller ones. But It also depends on how flat the bottom is. If its flat and you cant rotate it you dont have much choice but to put loads down unfortunately!
same issue but my raft stays fine but the model peels and curls on the same side this does not happen with my other resin only the standard resin like im through 70% a bottle and not a single sucessfull print another issue i have is the flat sides are like curved almost like doming instead of being flat its beyond annoying and expensive
Yeah if you print thin it warps. Id leave the support on thin areas and cure them first after clip them to avoid warping. As for normal resin ive not used it but i set my supports all to be heavy with a contact diam of 0.06 and ive never had a failure since. My failures were coming from the grid issue in the early mars pro.
@@Cloakfiend the issue is it peels during the print by the time im able to remove it form the plate its bent out of shape i changed the fep tried again got 1 part printed perfectly flat on both sides but 2nd time was back to a disaster but i will for sure try your method
@@Cloakfiend I fixed my issue completely im stupid and left that warning sticker over the LCD so i tried to remove it and sure enough thr was a protective sheet over it i had to remove and the yellow sticker blocked the screen form the corner now i removed it it's flawless
So wait it's supposed to make that pop noise?! Just got a resin printer and have had to clean it because of failed prints then started having making popping noises and I've been tripping over it
You're welcome! Its a learning game but if its supporting a big chunk of your o ject, defo make it thick. There is a craze about using tiny supports, but that only works for small objects not large ones. They just dont support the weight!
It will only work to some extent as the sucktion will still apply to some extent. The best way is to control the temp and increase connection sizes of the supports. Or have millions of smaller supports but i would.not do this going down the manual route.
@@Cloakfiend I have tray to place a model horizontal and vertically and result is better horizontal but also i listen the voice.Usually the model is 10 cm and i place always vertically to have more models to print.
@@kostassakkas4389 i usually warm it i did it recently but half broke of. I thing its mainly levelling to blame. Ive printed in cold and warm temps. Warm are definitely better than cold! But hot is no good either. I use a bit of tenatious but it stays slimy for some reason.
On my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, when I first tried to print the included Rook demo model, it never came out right. It peeled several tries, basically leaving a lot of ultra thin circular slices floating around in the resin vat. Came to find out the .ctb file is set up all wrong - BY ELEGOO. It peels because the bottom raft layers are set to insufficient cure time. I doubled the bottom raft cure time, and now it sits on the build plate nice and firmly. I do that to all my prints. At least 35 seconds. For larger prints I set the first 4 layers of the raft to cure 40 seconds each. This can potentially decrease the life span of your FEP, but the build plate is a rough surface and the FEP is a smooth surface so the build plate WILL win the tug o war, so to speak. It's also good practice to always inspect the FEP after each print. Over time it will become cloudy and sloppy, and then it's time to change it. If you don't you will end up with the FEB tearing and your UV screen flooded with cured resin. Using the method of prolonged bottom layer cure time, my FEP will last for about 10-13 large (tall models, taking up most of the build area) prints. DISCLAIMER: I still consider myself new to this, and by no means an expert. If you have better advice, I'm all ears and eager to learn.
@@Cloakfiend I will need to check the quality of the FEPS I get then. They get sloppy real fast, and I thought it was because of the extra cure time I input, pulling on the plastic. Thanks for the info.
@@My2Cents1 no probs I print tons and although supports leave dots on your prints its only visible at a certain angle but the fep is fine. I use regular elegoo vats. No fancy nfeps or anything either. And no pointless lube on my fep either.
Thank you so much for this explanation! I was concerned about that suction and pop sound…. Very informative!!!
Thanks I appreciate it!
Very informational! I was printing a 2.5mm thick large area panel on the bed and then always got the panel thickness to be like 3-3.5mm, probably because my initial layer has peeled from the bed and the UV light cured the material behind it
I dont have a resin printer yet but hopefully soon. BUT this demonstration you made is really nice. It also brings up a good point of where the stress is on resin supports. Keep it up man :)
Thanks!! But for larger objects id definitely use thicker supports or else you have to use tons of smaller ones. But It also depends on how flat the bottom is. If its flat and you cant rotate it you dont have much choice but to put loads down unfortunately!
Great explanation and visuals. Thanks!
Very insightful! Thnaks a lot !
Great demonstration, thankyou!
Can i ask , may bed film having dent because of that, it's natural?
If you hear two poping sounds on a lift you either have a leak or resin underneath the vat.
same issue but my raft stays fine but the model peels and curls on the same side this does not happen with my other resin only the standard resin like im through 70% a bottle and not a single sucessfull print another issue i have is the flat sides are like curved almost like doming instead of being flat its beyond annoying and expensive
Yeah if you print thin it warps. Id leave the support on thin areas and cure them first after clip them to avoid warping. As for normal resin ive not used it but i set my supports all to be heavy with a contact diam of 0.06 and ive never had a failure since. My failures were coming from the grid issue in the early mars pro.
@@Cloakfiend the issue is it peels during the print by the time im able to remove it form the plate its bent out of shape i changed the fep tried again got 1 part printed perfectly flat on both sides but 2nd time was back to a disaster but i will for sure try your method
even if i add a raft it peels off the raft literally makes no sense 75% out of a bottle resin not 1 print
@@NHILOtunes ive gone with heavy supports only now 0.6 contact diameter never fails for me now. Slighly more cleanup but im ok with that.
@@Cloakfiend I fixed my issue completely im stupid and left that warning sticker over the LCD so i tried to remove it and sure enough thr was a protective sheet over it i had to remove and the yellow sticker blocked the screen form the corner now i removed it it's flawless
what solution to avoid the pop other then make bigger supports? slower lifting speed?
Thanks
You cant avoid any pop. Its the nature of how it works. You just need to prepare for it.
So wait it's supposed to make that pop noise?! Just got a resin printer and have had to clean it because of failed prints then started having making popping noises and I've been tripping over it
Aha, yeah I was doing thicker in the middle. Thanks, I'll change it up.
You're welcome! Its a learning game but if its supporting a big chunk of your o ject, defo make it thick. There is a craze about using tiny supports, but that only works for small objects not large ones. They just dont support the weight!
Crazy thought... What about printing a ring around your model that's moderately thick to deal with the harshest suction force?
It will only work to some extent as the sucktion will still apply to some extent. The best way is to control the temp and increase connection sizes of the supports. Or have millions of smaller supports but i would.not do this going down the manual route.
i listen the voice like stick the job on the fep..i think is the same to explane to video...how can fix this to dont stick..???
Most common problem for not sticking is incorrect leveling and not high enough exposure.
@@Cloakfiend I have tray to place a model horizontal and vertically and result is better horizontal but also i listen the voice.Usually the model is 10 cm and i place always vertically to have more models to print.
@@kostassakkas4389 bad levelling is the main issue i find. I hate leveling these resin printers!
@@Cloakfiend first mind to had is to warm resin before printing.i will try to calibrate the platform.i hope to find the broblem.
@@kostassakkas4389 i usually warm it i did it recently but half broke of. I thing its mainly levelling to blame. Ive printed in cold and warm temps. Warm are definitely better than cold! But hot is no good either. I use a bit of tenatious but it stays slimy for some reason.
Great...
nice video
Thanks I appreciate it!!
exactly what i was looking for
On my Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, when I first tried to print the included Rook demo model, it never came out right. It peeled several tries, basically leaving a lot of ultra thin circular slices floating around in the resin vat.
Came to find out the .ctb file is set up all wrong - BY ELEGOO. It peels because the bottom raft layers are set to insufficient cure time. I doubled the bottom raft cure time, and now it sits on the build plate nice and firmly. I do that to all my prints. At least 35 seconds. For larger prints I set the first 4 layers of the raft to cure 40 seconds each. This can potentially decrease the life span of your FEP, but the build plate is a rough surface and the FEP is a smooth surface so the build plate WILL win the tug o war, so to speak.
It's also good practice to always inspect the FEP after each print. Over time it will become cloudy and sloppy, and then it's time to change it. If you don't you will end up with the FEB tearing and your UV screen flooded with cured resin.
Using the method of prolonged bottom layer cure time, my FEP will last for about 10-13 large (tall models, taking up most of the build area) prints.
DISCLAIMER: I still consider myself new to this, and by no means an expert. If you have better advice, I'm all ears and eager to learn.
Feps last way longer than 13 prints. Ive yet to change one! I print a lot now.
@@Cloakfiend I will need to check the quality of the FEPS I get then. They get sloppy real fast, and I thought it was because of the extra cure time I input, pulling on the plastic. Thanks for the info.
@@My2Cents1 no probs
I print tons and although supports leave dots on your prints its only visible at a certain angle but the fep is fine. I use regular elegoo vats. No fancy nfeps or anything either. And no pointless lube on my fep either.
@@My2Cents1 i also dont have a screen protector.
essentially