There is also a myth that a VPN adds security... Sorry Magnus, sure it pays your wage, but what these VPN-Providers say is mostly bs. If you would want what they say, use a browser like e.g. thor. Don't forget a good firewall/antivirus though. In most cases of VPN's you might not get exactly tracked by the website you're visiting, but the provider of the VPN mostly saves the data too and probably sells it aswell...
11th myth: that VPNs actually add security for the random internet users. They don't. But they can help to watch Netflix programs only available in others countries though... :)
if #10 is true, i would like to go into a car dealership and rip my shirt off, right down to my bra, and negotiate 4000€ discount. would this work? please advise. i would like to go in on Sunday.
@@richardbradley1532 The mutual respect is such a huge part of it imo, now a days thats the first thing I look for when I meet someone. I live by the rule that if there is no mutual respect there will be no relationship because of how important it is. It makes any relationship so much better wether thats a friendship, buisness relations or romantic relationship.
I think the arm strength myth is only partially busted with the straight arm challenge. That was a very clever way to eliminate upper arm pull strength, but forearm grip strength still played a huge role in Pete's ability to hang onto those slopers for two minutes while he figured out the straight arm techinque.
It really grinds my nuggets when strong climbers say that you don't need to be strong to climb well, and that technique is the lion's share of good climbing. A base level of fitness is absolutely necessary. Even things like twisting in or flagging, you can coach someone through the entire beta of a climb, and they won't be able to execute on the coaching.
I agree that you do need at least some arm strength - before I started climbing I couldn't even take my full body weight on my arms on a bar or on jugs. I still have a very weak upper body and back which frustrates me when I can't make certain moves but because I had to learn to be very good at twisting and pivoting with straight arms I find I'm better at this technique now. It helps that I didn't have the option to bend my arms/pull in because I literally couldn't 😅
Exactly what I was thinking - you need enough grip strength to carry your weight when climbing. You will need around 40kg of grip strength as a minimum (maybe if you're 50kg or 60kgs, then 30kg+ in each hand would be ok as well, and you need endurance as well. I guess if you have sufficient grip strength and you aren't too heavy, then you could climb, though leg strength will also be crazy relevant (Because it seemed like when they were trying it out, he compensated for the lack of arm strength with legs). I'm planning to climb in the future, but first I gotta shed weight and diet sufficiently (at 95kg with grip strength of 50 in each hand the last time I tested it, for climbing I need to reach at least 80kg I think.)
@@KoinzellGaming Man if you want to climb just go climb and dont' make excuses. You are heavy and weak go for V0 or V1 on boulder or 5, 5+ on lead and 6a on good day when you are fresh. Figure out good diet and see how you progress with technic. Your power weaknes gives you force to learn proper technic as you can't compensate with pure power to pass the crux on a route - this actualy helps you to get better fundamentals of climbing :D . I know what I am saying becuase I was there :D. Don't over do it and don't go to fast to strong - tendoes don't heal that well either - sadly been there as well. Just avoide two finger / one finger pockets :D
About the Figure 4: In your video you chose holds that are matchable which makes campusing a lot easier. When i climb explicitly set Figer 4's they are almost always cross-over moves on unmatchable two-fingerpockets. On top of that, the next hold might be in a weird angle and you need to get there statically. But it's not easy to find a place where F-4 is easier when it isn't actually intended, and i think you did a good job at trying to find such a spot.
Yeah i was just going to say that its better only in very specific situations or on a long ass problem wher you know youll get tired but in these situations it can be a lot better.
I do remember a couple of routes where there were fingerpockets where I simply grabbed my own hand or wrist to do the campus move. Any thoughts on that versus F-4?
I agree. I also think that moves in a cave with an extended roof the figure 4 at least helps make the climbing more efficient because you don't have to hold an L sit for a long period.
"That's like taking a big shit on the myth" had me laughing again 😂 Luckily no dump placed. Cheers for having me on again Magnus, that vid had me chuckling
honestly the "brushing holds is pointless one" surprised me that people even think that. Brushing makes such an incredibly huge difference on so many climbs its not even funny. Holds get greasy so fast. The "pores" of slopers get filled up with chalk. A good brush makes so many boulders that much easier.
Yeah, never heard that before either. It's strange as you can really feel the difference if you actually brush the holds when you climb. Especially on slopers.
I never thought it was pointless, but I definitely didn't realize just how much of a difference it made. It was when I stopped to actually think about what the brushing was doing (clearing the "pores") that it really clicked.
Anybody else think it would be funny to have a "rental shoes only" pro competition? Like we just take a bunch of professional climbers and a normal bouldering comp but they can only wear rental shoes.
I think the main differences between soft and stiff shoes for tiny edges is the force transfer. With soft shoes you have to spend strength to keep the whole foot engaged on the hold, while with stiff shoes, the rubber itself helps staying engaged on the toe. That, plus sensitivity: as Magnus pointed out, it was painful. ^^ More sensitivity means you can feel the better placement of the foot, but you also fell the pain. So I guess in the end it comes down to whether you prefer to feel the hold, or save strength from the calf, and on what the overall style of the climb is.
the small foothold wasnt even that small AND it had a quite nice edge. compared to some stuff in our gym.... slopy lil chips with a lot of rubber on it. soft shoes have no chance on this! on slopy volumes its quite the opposite of course.
It depends on the rubber compound just like car tires. Thats why u drive yoour car with another rubber compound in colder temperatures. It would make sense to have shoes with different rubber compound for different temperatures.
As someone with absolute noodle arms who has also tried bouldering before: you can get away with having barely any arm strength, but if there's an overhang it's game over for me. I can do pretty much everything else out of my shoulders and legs. Another thing I've noticed is grip strength. I was able to easily complete some courses that some much stronger friends of mine couldn't do, I guess because I gripped onto these ledges like a monkey afraid of falling to it's death ((:
I find overhangs have even a much stronger emphasis on straight arms, however because you're hanging much more weight on the arms, it increases the strength requirement of even your grip and the bigger muscles that you use when climbing with straight arms. It also introduces a huge requirement of foot technique and core strength.
@@ShiningDarknes Magnus' arm strength has been measured before, he can barely pull 10kg on a preacher curl with his dominant arm. 10kg is a weight someone can curl after ~1-2months of gym training if they keep a proper schedule, honestly it might even be faster than that, I just don't train biceps that much. Needless to say, Magnus arm strength as in tricep and bicep, is not remotely above average. His crazy strength basically comes from almost the entire upper body except for the bicep and tricep lol. Pulling strength comes from the back muscles, not the arm.
@@NomSauce grip strength is almost entirely forearm muscles ergo "arm strength." Grip strength unequivocally is needed for high-level climbing, ergo arm strength is needed. I never said biceps are needed or that his biceps/triceps are particularly impressive, most climbers don't have strong biceps or triceps, no stronger than average or slightly above average at least but the forearms are where most of your grip power comes from and last I checked they are part of the arms.
If you look closely at ice climbers doing figure four, they dont put their knee in their elbow, but close to the wrist. I think you lose quite a lot of reach when you do it wrong as it puts you further away from the wall and lower from the hold. Also, a figure four has the advantage of being a static move, and you could try to match a feet with the previous hand to avoid cutting lose.
It's proven to conserve strength. If the task is to hang on one arm for a long period of time it doesn't matter how strong you are, figure 4 will always win the race.
For the figure 4 move, you should've gone to a very high precision move. Maybe a hand jam or a single/double finger pocket. Can you campus into that? With enough attempts maybe. But you can reliably take your time and figure-4 it.
@@clowdy8014 It might be a bit disingenuous, but commenting is better than not commenting for the algorithm. So I am not complaining.
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I was also one of those people that didn't understand brushing, but then I was climbing in a gym that has a lot of visitors and many holds were really slippery from all the chalk and sweat. Brushing them made a huge difference and I went from totally desperate and slipping off to holding on just fine. Like you described - when hold is used often it doesn't have the original texture and traction available.
I know for myself, when I brush a hold, it's not just chalk on the hold. The surface also has skin oils and skin itself packed in there, and without even measuring how long you can hold on, you can feel the difference just by touching it. Brushing a hold, for me, has taken some routes from near impossible to fairly easy.
I feel like a figure 4 is especially easier when you can't match the first hold. So it's either doing a one arm pull up campus, holding the wrist technique OR figure 4. In that scenario a figure 4 can definitely feel better + when the hold you are going for is a slot that needs precision which is easier when you can go slowly to it with a figure 4
I’m so glad Pete has become a consistent face in your videos. Your collabs with him always feel upbeat and natural. I also love seeing how much your climbing styles differ, even though you’re both world class climbers
It would be awesome for newer climbers like me, if you could quickly explain certain climbing terms like "sandbagging" in your videos. Besides that I really love your content, please keep up the great work, you're really motivating me to climb more.
Sandbagging isn't a climbing term, it's just an English slang term. Means to deliberately underperform to deceive someone about how good you are. It doesn't really apply perfectly to the concept of grading climbs. If I had to guess what they mean about sandbagging their grading I would guess they mean that you are grading a climb lower than it's actual difficulty.
@@Paragonofcynicism I mean, this is just anecdotal, but here in Canada I've heard this term very widely used in the climbing community. At least where I live, given the frequency and common understanding, I would absolutely call sandbagging a climbing term.
@@Paragonofcynicism but then again, no gym/boulder follows the exact same grading. Maybe (British) people are used to harder routes being graded lower🙃?
The straight arms bit with Pete really made the "straight arms" technique thing click like no other video I've ever watched. I've just imagined I have splints on my arms like Pete and it totally works. I am climbing way more efficiently now. So crazy really, I've known this technique for years but somehow seeing someone being physically unable to bend their arms has made it all fall into place! :D
Honestly love seeing how modest you are in your climbing. When you said you weren't the strongest I believe you, but you are definitely one of the most versatile and well rounded climbers I've watched imo
I guess the first myth really depends on the style of boulder. I'm pretty weak, like I can maybe do 1 proper pull up and 2 push ups. I can still climb quite hard on technical boulders, but there are certain moves, which are just impossible. Like campus moves, locking off, mantles...
Even mantles are (usually) quite doable when favoring technique over strength. I’m not a very strong climber, but mantles are one of my favorite things to do. 👍🏼
I learned to climb (mid 90's) in a bit of a sandbag culture and it was great. It think it comes from long history of climbing at our local crag and humility by the FA'ers who put the routes up in the 60's/70's/80's.. The reason it was great was that most crags I went to on road trips (with a few exceptions, talking to you Gunks) seemed soft. I onsighted 12a at Red Rocks on lead before I could redpoint the 12a on top rope at my local crag. I like my gym and my local crag to be a little sandbagged. Keeps you humble and allows extra psych and joy when you crush it on your road trips.
I've always wondered if it's humility or whether it's being afraid of the scorn/viciousness which comes from accidentally overgrading it... if the objective is to grade things accurately then downgrading should be as common as upgrading because climbs are just different for different people.
Warming up the shoes is definitely a thing. In the winter I always put my shoes under the heater otw to the gym and I’ve noticed a deference not in my climbing ability but more the way my feet feel. It’s a lot less fatiguing when they are warm. Could be the grip
Great (super scientific) video! Always love to see Pete on :) Would you ever consider doing an ice climbing vid? If I heard correctly you mentioned you haven't tried it. I think it'd be really interesting to see! Also thought the story about your outdoor route climb was really cool cause it's nice to hear a little bit of that thought process behind those big projects. Thanks as always for the awesome videos!
Really love these sort of classic climbing gym video's (with a twist that is)! Also love how you put a lot of focus on the background music, it really puts in an extra dimension xD. Hope you had/have fun with the ice climbing as well, i'm looking forward to that video! Keep it up!
You should try the ‘climbing when it’s cold makes the route easier’ myth! That one has been crammed into my head for a while and I’ve just accepted it. Curious to see if it’s actually true or not
More o2, but overall physical performance goes down when you're "cold". I guess if you can keep your muscles warm still it would probably be a benefit.
@@emissarygw2264 The O2 difference in temperatures that humans are actually climbing at is pretty negligible. It goes from 21% total oxygen in the air at 0 Celsius to 18.5% at 50 Celsius-which is a 5-6% reduction.
I Love the way you've done the timer for the segments in this video, Love It. It's a creative way of indicating it, and I didn't notice until part way through the first myth that it was an active timer. Love the videos as a whole, all of 'em. You make really great content man. Very nice, Magnus.
About the Chalk: From my experience it depends heavyly on the brand. Reasons for a chalk to be good or bad are amount of additives/production quality and amount of MgCO3 compared to the amount of MG-Hydrate. Liquid vs powder is more a question of where u want to use it in my opinion. Liquid chalk gets more between the ripples on the fingertips, that makes friction on slippery slopers worse (e.g. wooden hangbouardsloper :D ) but (maybe for the same reason) stays longer on the hands, which is why I like it for hard climbs where I can´t really spent time chalking due to being pumped.
@@bobdrooples not it doesn't. The Mg is suspended in alcohol which evaporates, your hands are dry within a few seconds and then it is just a thin layer of Mg on your hands - nothing to do with non Newtonian fluids.
Fig 4 is way more static. While climbing with Ice Tools you don't want them to pop off the hold. While climbing with your hands you can adjust the grip while doing it with a dynamic movement.
About myth : When I was young, I loved sprinting and I was confident that I was 10 or 15% faster when running in the night So I do believe 'top off' is a true strategy
Brushing was the one thing I was 100% sure of. There have been many times where I've been climbing on a crappy sloper that I can't get a grip on either with my shoes or my hands, brushed it real good and took it from impossible to feeling very solid.
The thing about the first myth is that Pete may have taken away most of his arm strength, but he still has insane grip strength from being a god climber. You would need to do this myth with someone actually weak
New year new challenge. In germany bodybuilder and fitness influencer make a challenges we're they try as many as pull ups in 1 hour. For every pull up the make they also donate 1€ for a charity organisation. As we all know, is magnus extremely strong at pull ups and i am very interested how many he can make. Maybe he reads this comment and also try the challenge by his own. When you like to see him doing this challenge give this comment a like.
Even as a layman who knows nothing about rock climbing (and only started watching videos on it yesterday) I could have told you that brushing would increase the grip. Chalk particles are very fine, the more you add to the surface you're trying to grip, the more it's filling in all the imperfections and smooths it out. It's like prepping a surface for painting, you want to lightly sand it to roughen it, increase the surface area, so that the paint can stick better.
Ha, when I started the video I went “Oh, almost half an hour, I probably will watch just a few minutes and get on with my stuff”. Half an hour later here I am! Amazing video, I enjoyed it a lot. Good job on the collab, guys.
That was a fun video. Love that not all myths were busted. I think I've been buying climbing shoes that might have been too tight for a long time. Its obviously especially important to have 'comfy' shoes on a multi-pitch route (unless you can take them off perhaps). I had tight indoor shoes and more comfortable outdoor shoes, but now I'm suspicious as to whether my tight shoes were really better
I've only used the figure 4 move once on a climb. It is hard to set because strong guys simply campus. However, I liked how at the end of that segment they mention being tired makes a difference. You need to set a figure 4 move at the end of the route when your arms are pumped and you don't have the strength to campus. Then the figure 4 becomes useful. The one time I used it was near the end of the route when I had little strength left.
For the Myth of brushing the holds I felt a visceral understanding that the scrubbing motion scours off oil by much more contact with more particles of chalk, removing the oil layer. The pressure and abrasion seem to effectively sequester oil and water. This was an effective video! Thanks for making it.
The chalk and sweat fill in the surface texture of the holds, eventually making it smooth and harder to grip. You're basically filling in the surface with an oily "mud" that builds over time. Scrubbing gets the chalk out of the surface so you can grip the texture again.
Specially appreciated the straight arms experiment, I started just a few months ago and many times rely too much on arm strength and get tired quickly.
It's definitely a good experiment, but it doesn't really account for forearm/grip strength, which is certainly pretty important when pulling hard on certain holds, especially smaller ones. The experiment really only accounted for bicep-engaging arm strength. I know it's all in good fun though, and I really enjoyed the video!
@@BouchyBoy well yes, but if you’re trying to keep your arms straight/relay more on your legs, you would still be using that grip strength to stay on the wall.
@@chloewilliams1702 That's exactly my point! Pete undoubtedly has more forearm/grip strength that 99% of the people watching these videos, so he is able to stay on the wall more easily while relying more on his legs and less on his bicep strength. So to say "strength isn't needed" isn't really accurate, since Pete still has MUCH more forearm grip strength than the average climber, and many people wouldn't even be able to grip those holds he's climbing, arms straight or not.
I just started climbing “bouldering” this year thanks to you. Always been scared of heights and this is helping me get over that. And btw I just bought my first pair of shoes scarpa dragos so much of a improvement over rentals.
i typically skip through sponsorship in videos but listening to magnus i watch every second of it, so he gets every single cent from youtube. thank you magnus for helping us all and bringing us amazing content and wholesome content at that. i speak for everyone on this you make us feel like we are there with you.
Magnus: "I'm definitely not super strong" Pete: "Woah woah woah woah woah" Magnus can only be so humble for so long until someone has to call him out for a straight up lie 🤣
Main reason for liquid chalk in my home gym is to keep the dust down - otherwise I'd use the regular stuff. It's also not bad for travel - you can keep it with you and be a bit discreet at gyms that aren't into chalk in general.
Are you talking about climbing gyms that aren't into chalk in general or just normal gyms ? Can't imagine a climbing gym that takes itself seriously, not allowing chalk ^^
@@GreMLinSLoveCoOkies Yeah, sorry, I meant regular gym. I like to use chalk for deadlifts. I agree - hard to imagine a climbing gym that doesn't allow chalk!
Figure four would be better from a good hold to a really bad hold because you could go static instead of dynamic. For a the tight shoe is always better question, not always, good for edges and maybe aggressive heelhooks etc. but definitely way worse on smearing and problems that need a bigger friction area like standing on volumes. Great video, much love
I wanted them to test another bit of climbing wisdom I've heard: if you're pumped, it's better to "shake it out" than "stretch it out." I'd also be curious if the theragun releases the pump faster.
I would love to see one of these (maybe a yt short) confirming if expensive (say friction lab) chalk is better than run of the mill chalk. Then also tested against cheap chalk
The picture quality is on another level! Great video!
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I agree that liquid chalk is not stickier, but its main benefit is that your hands stay dry longer. I had a project recently that had a really bad crux hold high up and when I used liquid chalk + regular chalk, my hands were nearly dry in the crux compared to just regular chalk = really sweaty hands in the crux. On routes I don't chalk up as much when I use liquid chalk prior to climbing. I dislike liquid chalk in general though, it doesn't feel as nice, needs to dry up and I get a ton of splits on my fingers as is, when I use liquid chalk I get much more. I have a nice sample as well, when climbing gyms opened again first after covid, liquid chalk was mandatory. Finger splits all day :D
Thanks for cool video (always enjoying the collabs with Pete ^^) ! Regarding the figure 4, a really nice example can be found on 'Délire Onirique' in Fontainebleau by Nico Pelorson: this move allowed him to stay closer to the rock, more easily than throwing his hand (on a vertical wall).
I remember an indoor climb, where figure four really was the way to go. You came out of a roof with both hands on crimps, had to let go of your feet and reach for an angled crimp outside of the roof on an overhang. Campusing it would have blown you out of the crimp due to backwards momentum. You needed that one static.
Myth 11: Lowering your heels on a slab increases contact area, improving friction. Fact: Friction is independent of contact area. Lowering your heels slightly improves contact angle and lets you move off your foot more easily. Test this with an inclined plane and a mass with rubber feet of different areas.
In theory the surface area increase lowers the pressure and thus the two effects cancel. However, because the rubber is soft, allowing it to conform to the irregularities of the rock, lowering your heals and increasing the contact area does in fact result in greater force due to contact area. The force is more of a mixture between the mechanical and the frictional types of forces. If the rock was more glassy or smooth, then the rubber wouldn't conform around the projecting bits of material and it would therefore conform to the high school physics model. I've often wondered about this question because I am a climber, but I have a physics degree as well. I've always noticed that the contact area does in fact increase my ability to stay on the rock, so I did some digging and realized why it isn't just a idealized coefficient of friction type problem.
@@wendywilson8488 Wouldn’t the rubber conform more to irregularities in the rock using smaller contact patch, not a larger patch? There’s also an issue of selection bias: With a wider contact patch, you are subjecting yourself to the “average” friction over that large area, whereas with a smaller contact patch, you might get unlucky and hit an area of low friction, causing you to fall. On the other hand, on a really bad surface, you might need to get lucky, so a smaller patch might land in a higher friction area. Of course, if you decrease size too much, you start destroying your rubber, so there must be a sweet spot… It’s definitely complicated, it’s not as simple as “more contact area=better friction” as many rock climbers believe.
@@hsonp_h as contact area gets smaller the softer rubber will deform to the point that it 'rolls' over the the features from which it was deriving the extra area from. I think a decent comparison think about kneading dough where the bottom has great friction on the work surface but through deformation your hands move more easily. Apparent surface stretching also occurs as you roll onto your toes because bending something inherently compresses the inside of the bend and stretches the outside of the bend which similarly pulls some of that good deformation out of where it has keyed into the hold. Given those factors the reality may be pretty close to more area = more friction except when there are features too large for the shoe to deform around such as you might have on granite. Since dropped heels will minimize sole bending stretch as you move and reduce the likelihood that the climber will unintentionally overload one part of the rubber it probably just works out to be better in a vast majority of gym cases. Worth noting that "more" has an upper boundary of "the area of two shoes" which may also keep conditions reasonably optimal for soft rubber.
For me as a hand therapist its a bit confusing when you try to remove "strong arms" by not allowing them to bend. The arms are about a lot more than flexing and extending. They can rotate too. All finger strength comes mostly from the arms too. Shoulders are tied to the muscle chain in the arm too. I'd argue that climbing is mostly about arm strength. Maybe not the ability to do pure brachialis pullups, but you can't climb without gripping the holds and that is pure arm strength.
Great video! You should test if you can grip better with pruned skin. Apparently our skin prunes so we can grip better in the water, it would be interesting to see if that translates in climbing
The chalk brushing myth. The problem with excessive chalk is that you actually create multiple molecular layers of chalk that can move against each other. Try gluing a piece of sandpaper to the floor and then to the bottom of a block. The block will be VERY difficult to move across the sandpaper floor. Now add a small layer of sand to the floor and try it again. It will be much easier to move.
So entertaining and an insightful vid! Thank you for this. As I have suspected for a while ... slightly comfortable shoes are no hindrance in reality. Laughed more than many of the other vids. Great job.
The reason that particular ice climbing move is done is because the move you compared it to imparts significantly much more force into the shelf you are climbing. Which matters in ice climbing a lot more than rock climbing. Not only this, but because it is more of a static technical move, it provides a better anchor point, less shear force on your holds and eliminates the possibility that your new hand hold fails and you drop. May not matter much to most people, but this move is primarily designed for people climbing in places where you do not take unnecessary risks because you can, and many people have died from them.
I think slippy wooden holds for the stiff shoes miff would have been better. Personally I think a soft shoes requires really strong toes to stay on bad edges, where stiffer shoes give a little more help
20:15 I think the difference between having chalk in your hands vs holds is that the chalk in your hands is supposed to be pretty thin and it's task is to keep your hands dry (avoid sweat and oil) and the best for the holds is to be as rought and porous as possible. I guess if your hands were oily and sweaty and you didn't use chalk, then it wouldn't matter or having chalk on the holds would actually improve things.
"you need strong arms to climb hard" Mori Ai doesn't look like she would be able to snap a pencil in two using her arms, but she is one of the greatest climbers I have ever seen. Will probably surpase Janja if she keeps up.
Man I learned tons on this. Our gym just forced liquid chalk for Covid reasons and I'm hearing lots of complaints of drying hands and bad grip. I guess that makes it official!
1.-Made a video with him, creating hardest route possible 2.-Made another video, playing create hardest move possible 3.-Do you like sandbagging? - No I try not to....
I've never seen anyone climb shirtless in a gym here in germany. It feels so normal when i watch scandinavian climnbing youtubers like you, Emil or Eric, but i would never dare do it myself in my gym.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
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A program to do 20 rep pull in one set? I can do only 15 max.
There is also a myth that a VPN adds security... Sorry Magnus, sure it pays your wage, but what these VPN-Providers say is mostly bs. If you would want what they say, use a browser like e.g. thor. Don't forget a good firewall/antivirus though.
In most cases of VPN's you might not get exactly tracked by the website you're visiting, but the provider of the VPN mostly saves the data too and probably sells it aswell...
11th myth: that VPNs actually add security for the random internet users. They don't. But they can help to watch Netflix programs only available in others countries though... :)
what do you do for grip strength? potential video? as response)
if #10 is true, i would like to go into a car dealership and rip my shirt off, right down to my bra, and negotiate 4000€ discount. would this work? please advise. i would like to go in on Sunday.
It's been said before, but it's worth saying again: The collabs with Pete are just so natural and fun. More Pete = more better!
I think it is because they are different but compatible athletes and of course, the obvious mutual respect.
@@richardbradley1532 The mutual respect is such a huge part of it imo, now a days thats the first thing I look for when I meet someone. I live by the rule that if there is no mutual respect there will be no relationship because of how important it is. It makes any relationship so much better wether thats a friendship, buisness relations or romantic relationship.
I don't there's much to be analyzed here, they just get along well and have a compatible sense of humour.
Yes!! I was smiling the whole video. So much fun
This is actually the first video of theirs I've seen and it felt so natural that I didn't realize it was a collab
I think the arm strength myth is only partially busted with the straight arm challenge. That was a very clever way to eliminate upper arm pull strength, but forearm grip strength still played a huge role in Pete's ability to hang onto those slopers for two minutes while he figured out the straight arm techinque.
Exactly, grip/forearm strength is vital for climbing, especially if you're heavy
It really grinds my nuggets when strong climbers say that you don't need to be strong to climb well, and that technique is the lion's share of good climbing.
A base level of fitness is absolutely necessary.
Even things like twisting in or flagging, you can coach someone through the entire beta of a climb, and they won't be able to execute on the coaching.
I agree that you do need at least some arm strength - before I started climbing I couldn't even take my full body weight on my arms on a bar or on jugs. I still have a very weak upper body and back which frustrates me when I can't make certain moves but because I had to learn to be very good at twisting and pivoting with straight arms I find I'm better at this technique now. It helps that I didn't have the option to bend my arms/pull in because I literally couldn't 😅
Exactly what I was thinking - you need enough grip strength to carry your weight when climbing. You will need around 40kg of grip strength as a minimum (maybe if you're 50kg or 60kgs, then 30kg+ in each hand would be ok as well, and you need endurance as well. I guess if you have sufficient grip strength and you aren't too heavy, then you could climb, though leg strength will also be crazy relevant (Because it seemed like when they were trying it out, he compensated for the lack of arm strength with legs).
I'm planning to climb in the future, but first I gotta shed weight and diet sufficiently (at 95kg with grip strength of 50 in each hand the last time I tested it, for climbing I need to reach at least 80kg I think.)
@@KoinzellGaming Man if you want to climb just go climb and dont' make excuses. You are heavy and weak go for V0 or V1 on boulder or 5, 5+ on lead and 6a on good day when you are fresh. Figure out good diet and see how you progress with technic. Your power weaknes gives you force to learn proper technic as you can't compensate with pure power to pass the crux on a route - this actualy helps you to get better fundamentals of climbing :D . I know what I am saying becuase I was there :D. Don't over do it and don't go to fast to strong - tendoes don't heal that well either - sadly been there as well. Just avoide two finger / one finger pockets :D
Might be overlooked but from a graphic standpoint those bars being filled up to show how long you’re spending on each myth is so smart and cool
It's brilliant editing, I love it!
Its just a way to boost engagement
It lets people skip ad with him still getting paid @hunterkoch7508
Thought y same thing!!!
About the Figure 4: In your video you chose holds that are matchable which makes campusing a lot easier. When i climb explicitly set Figer 4's they are almost always cross-over moves on unmatchable two-fingerpockets. On top of that, the next hold might be in a weird angle and you need to get there statically. But it's not easy to find a place where F-4 is easier when it isn't actually intended, and i think you did a good job at trying to find such a spot.
Yeah i was just going to say that its better only in very specific situations or on a long ass problem wher you know youll get tired but in these situations it can be a lot better.
I do remember a couple of routes where there were fingerpockets where I simply grabbed my own hand or wrist to do the campus move. Any thoughts on that versus F-4?
The figure four is also better when you need to be precise when going for tiny holds far away
I agree. I also think that moves in a cave with an extended roof the figure 4 at least helps make the climbing more efficient because you don't have to hold an L sit for a long period.
You gain a lot more reach if you put your back of the knee as high up as possible. Not just into the height of the ellbow as showed.
"That's like taking a big shit on the myth" had me laughing again 😂 Luckily no dump placed. Cheers for having me on again Magnus, that vid had me chuckling
Props for trying to sandbag anyway xD
Was laughing alot along you two! Super nice vibes😊
Super nice video, i was laughing all the way through the whole thing!
I think the top off for extra power might depend on the top. Doesn’t a Wide Boys t-shirt come with extra power anyway?
That was the best moment of the video haha!
honestly the "brushing holds is pointless one" surprised me that people even think that. Brushing makes such an incredibly huge difference on so many climbs its not even funny. Holds get greasy so fast. The "pores" of slopers get filled up with chalk. A good brush makes so many boulders that much easier.
Those people don't even climb.
Even crimps, in the end it's always about friction. I can really feel the difference if a move is at my limit
Yeah, never heard that before either. It's strange as you can really feel the difference if you actually brush the holds when you climb. Especially on slopers.
I never thought it was pointless, but I definitely didn't realize just how much of a difference it made. It was when I stopped to actually think about what the brushing was doing (clearing the "pores") that it really clicked.
If you climb V0-V1 it’s useless, so only people who are realy bad at climbing can think this way..
Anybody else think it would be funny to have a "rental shoes only" pro competition? Like we just take a bunch of professional climbers and a normal bouldering comp but they can only wear rental shoes.
I vote barefoot instead. :-D
@@marcbecker1431 feet guy spotted 👀
@@marcbecker1431 Barefoot would be easier than rentals, rental shoes are a damn slip and slide
Magnus would just campus everything
Rental shoes, using feet required.
I think the main differences between soft and stiff shoes for tiny edges is the force transfer. With soft shoes you have to spend strength to keep the whole foot engaged on the hold, while with stiff shoes, the rubber itself helps staying engaged on the toe. That, plus sensitivity: as Magnus pointed out, it was painful. ^^ More sensitivity means you can feel the better placement of the foot, but you also fell the pain.
So I guess in the end it comes down to whether you prefer to feel the hold, or save strength from the calf, and on what the overall style of the climb is.
the small foothold wasnt even that small AND it had a quite nice edge. compared to some stuff in our gym.... slopy lil chips with a lot of rubber on it. soft shoes have no chance on this! on slopy volumes its quite the opposite of course.
It depends on the rubber compound just like car tires.
Thats why u drive yoour car with another rubber compound in colder temperatures.
It would make sense to have shoes with different rubber compound for different temperatures.
As someone with absolute noodle arms who has also tried bouldering before: you can get away with having barely any arm strength, but if there's an overhang it's game over for me. I can do pretty much everything else out of my shoulders and legs. Another thing I've noticed is grip strength. I was able to easily complete some courses that some much stronger friends of mine couldn't do, I guess because I gripped onto these ledges like a monkey afraid of falling to it's death ((:
you don't need arm strength... until you need arm strength lol
I find overhangs have even a much stronger emphasis on straight arms, however because you're hanging much more weight on the arms, it increases the strength requirement of even your grip and the bigger muscles that you use when climbing with straight arms. It also introduces a huge requirement of foot technique and core strength.
So I’d say you don’t need it to start climbing but it helps
@@ShiningDarknes Magnus' arm strength has been measured before, he can barely pull 10kg on a preacher curl with his dominant arm. 10kg is a weight someone can curl after ~1-2months of gym training if they keep a proper schedule, honestly it might even be faster than that, I just don't train biceps that much. Needless to say, Magnus arm strength as in tricep and bicep, is not remotely above average. His crazy strength basically comes from almost the entire upper body except for the bicep and tricep lol. Pulling strength comes from the back muscles, not the arm.
@@NomSauce grip strength is almost entirely forearm muscles ergo "arm strength." Grip strength unequivocally is needed for high-level climbing, ergo arm strength is needed. I never said biceps are needed or that his biceps/triceps are particularly impressive, most climbers don't have strong biceps or triceps, no stronger than average or slightly above average at least but the forearms are where most of your grip power comes from and last I checked they are part of the arms.
If you look closely at ice climbers doing figure four, they dont put their knee in their elbow, but close to the wrist. I think you lose quite a lot of reach when you do it wrong as it puts you further away from the wall and lower from the hold.
Also, a figure four has the advantage of being a static move, and you could try to match a feet with the previous hand to avoid cutting lose.
It's proven to conserve strength.
If the task is to hang on one arm for a long period of time it doesn't matter how strong you are, figure 4 will always win the race.
For the figure 4 move, you should've gone to a very high precision move. Maybe a hand jam or a single/double finger pocket. Can you campus into that? With enough attempts maybe. But you can reliably take your time and figure-4 it.
i’ve said it once and i’ll say it again. You are by far the most comfortable with pete and it makes the videos so much better
Stop copying comments dude, I see you do this on every magnus vid smh
@@clowdy8014 It might be a bit disingenuous, but commenting is better than not commenting for the algorithm. So I am not complaining.
I was also one of those people that didn't understand brushing, but then I was climbing in a gym that has a lot of visitors and many holds were really slippery from all the chalk and sweat. Brushing them made a huge difference and I went from totally desperate and slipping off to holding on just fine. Like you described - when hold is used often it doesn't have the original texture and traction available.
I know for myself, when I brush a hold, it's not just chalk on the hold. The surface also has skin oils and skin itself packed in there, and without even measuring how long you can hold on, you can feel the difference just by touching it. Brushing a hold, for me, has taken some routes from near impossible to fairly easy.
I feel like a figure 4 is especially easier when you can't match the first hold. So it's either doing a one arm pull up campus, holding the wrist technique OR figure 4. In that scenario a figure 4 can definitely feel better + when the hold you are going for is a slot that needs precision which is easier when you can go slowly to it with a figure 4
Also good in roof boulders close to the ground when you can't cut loose.
you can also pull on your arm to help a little
A fig 4 is really an ice/mixed technique to create a foothold where one doesn’t exist.
What would be the benefit of using figure 4. It looks like the leg is hooking across the forearm making that arm work harder?
@@AndrewTheTransformer getting your body higher so that you have more reach.
I’m so glad Pete has become a consistent face in your videos. Your collabs with him always feel upbeat and natural. I also love seeing how much your climbing styles differ, even though you’re both world class climbers
Contagious laughs for 28 minutes straight ;) Team Magnus / Pete is the best! Pete jumping down with his arms strapped looked sketchy.
It would be awesome for newer climbers like me, if you could quickly explain certain climbing terms like "sandbagging" in your videos.
Besides that I really love your content, please keep up the great work, you're really motivating me to climb more.
Sandbagging is giving a lower grade on a climb than other comparable routes.
Sandbagging isn't a climbing term, it's just an English slang term. Means to deliberately underperform to deceive someone about how good you are. It doesn't really apply perfectly to the concept of grading climbs. If I had to guess what they mean about sandbagging their grading I would guess they mean that you are grading a climb lower than it's actual difficulty.
@@Paragonofcynicism I mean, this is just anecdotal, but here in Canada I've heard this term very widely used in the climbing community. At least where I live, given the frequency and common understanding, I would absolutely call sandbagging a climbing term.
it's all very searchable no?
@@Paragonofcynicism but then again, no gym/boulder follows the exact same grading. Maybe (British) people are used to harder routes being graded lower🙃?
The straight arms bit with Pete really made the "straight arms" technique thing click like no other video I've ever watched.
I've just imagined I have splints on my arms like Pete and it totally works. I am climbing way more efficiently now. So crazy really, I've known this technique for years but somehow seeing someone being physically unable to bend their arms has made it all fall into place! :D
Honestly love seeing how modest you are in your climbing. When you said you weren't the strongest I believe you, but you are definitely one of the most versatile and well rounded climbers I've watched imo
Magnus:: I'm not that strong...
Pete: Whoa whoa whoa whoa!
I guess the first myth really depends on the style of boulder. I'm pretty weak, like I can maybe do 1 proper pull up and 2 push ups. I can still climb quite hard on technical boulders, but there are certain moves, which are just impossible. Like campus moves, locking off, mantles...
Even mantles are (usually) quite doable when favoring technique over strength. I’m not a very strong climber, but mantles are one of my favorite things to do. 👍🏼
there are very few problems which can only be solved with mantle though
I learned to climb (mid 90's) in a bit of a sandbag culture and it was great. It think it comes from long history of climbing at our local crag and humility by the FA'ers who put the routes up in the 60's/70's/80's..
The reason it was great was that most crags I went to on road trips (with a few exceptions, talking to you Gunks) seemed soft.
I onsighted 12a at Red Rocks on lead before I could redpoint the 12a on top rope at my local crag.
I like my gym and my local crag to be a little sandbagged. Keeps you humble and allows extra psych and joy when you crush it on your road trips.
My gym sandbags but that's because the Dacks are the closest to us
I've always wondered if it's humility or whether it's being afraid of the scorn/viciousness which comes from accidentally overgrading it... if the objective is to grade things accurately then downgrading should be as common as upgrading because climbs are just different for different people.
Warming up the shoes is definitely a thing. In the winter I always put my shoes under the heater otw to the gym and I’ve noticed a deference not in my climbing ability but more the way my feet feel. It’s a lot less fatiguing when they are warm. Could be the grip
Great (super scientific) video! Always love to see Pete on :)
Would you ever consider doing an ice climbing vid? If I heard correctly you mentioned you haven't tried it. I think it'd be really interesting to see! Also thought the story about your outdoor route climb was really cool cause it's nice to hear a little bit of that thought process behind those big projects.
Thanks as always for the awesome videos!
Really love these sort of classic climbing gym video's (with a twist that is)! Also love how you put a lot of focus on the background music, it really puts in an extra dimension xD.
Hope you had/have fun with the ice climbing as well, i'm looking forward to that video! Keep it up!
Magnus, you’ve the best climbing channel on TH-cam and my favorite channel overall!
Love from Italy
this is so wholesome, love from France & Canada! love to see such a nice community
You should try the ‘climbing when it’s cold makes the route easier’ myth! That one has been crammed into my head for a while and I’ve just accepted it. Curious to see if it’s actually true or not
More o2, but overall physical performance goes down when you're "cold". I guess if you can keep your muscles warm still it would probably be a benefit.
its been true for me, i think it could also be because i get less sweaty and my hands stay drier
Depends entirely on what you mean by cold. -40 C is a lot different from 0 C, which is very different from 10 C.
@@emissarygw2264 The O2 difference in temperatures that humans are actually climbing at is pretty negligible. It goes from 21% total oxygen in the air at 0 Celsius to 18.5% at 50 Celsius-which is a 5-6% reduction.
@@SnailHatan any effect from overall air density?
I Love the way you've done the timer for the segments in this video, Love It. It's a creative way of indicating it, and I didn't notice until part way through the first myth that it was an active timer. Love the videos as a whole, all of 'em. You make really great content man. Very nice, Magnus.
About the Chalk: From my experience it depends heavyly on the brand. Reasons for a chalk to be good or bad are amount of additives/production quality and amount of MgCO3 compared to the amount of MG-Hydrate.
Liquid vs powder is more a question of where u want to use it in my opinion. Liquid chalk gets more between the ripples on the fingertips, that makes friction on slippery slopers worse (e.g. wooden hangbouardsloper :D ) but (maybe for the same reason) stays longer on the hands, which is why I like it for hard climbs where I can´t really spent time chalking due to being pumped.
Liquid chalk essentially being a non Newtonian fluid shears and displaces under compression.
@@bobdrooples not it doesn't. The Mg is suspended in alcohol which evaporates, your hands are dry within a few seconds and then it is just a thin layer of Mg on your hands - nothing to do with non Newtonian fluids.
@@colorona8456 boop
I would love to see an episode of you and Pete climbing then guessing what the grade of the climb is .
MythBusters vibes! 🔥
Love your vids anton!
MythBrushers
Why does your boss hate overtime
Fig 4 is way more static. While climbing with Ice Tools you don't want them to pop off the hold. While climbing with your hands you can adjust the grip while doing it with a dynamic movement.
True, they miscalculated the wall.
About myth : When I was young, I loved sprinting and I was confident that I was 10 or 15% faster when running in the night
So I do believe 'top off' is a true strategy
that moment when magnus said 6c was kinda hard, i made an imaginary happienes jump, and was like "i can climb something kinda hard"
Brushing was the one thing I was 100% sure of. There have been many times where I've been climbing on a crappy sloper that I can't get a grip on either with my shoes or my hands, brushed it real good and took it from impossible to feeling very solid.
Wow, I love the dynamic between you guys. Every one of your collabs is so fun to watch!
The thing about the first myth is that Pete may have taken away most of his arm strength, but he still has insane grip strength from being a god climber. You would need to do this myth with someone actually weak
that’s why he was told to do a difficult one
New year new challenge.
In germany bodybuilder and fitness influencer make a challenges we're they try as many as pull ups in 1 hour. For every pull up the make they also donate 1€ for a charity organisation.
As we all know, is magnus extremely strong at pull ups and i am very interested how many he can make.
Maybe he reads this comment and also try the challenge by his own.
When you like to see him doing this challenge give this comment a like.
I think it was started by Kai Pflaume and Sascha Huber if you want to look for the videos
Even as a layman who knows nothing about rock climbing (and only started watching videos on it yesterday) I could have told you that brushing would increase the grip. Chalk particles are very fine, the more you add to the surface you're trying to grip, the more it's filling in all the imperfections and smooths it out. It's like prepping a surface for painting, you want to lightly sand it to roughen it, increase the surface area, so that the paint can stick better.
I like that MMA and climbing both have figure fours and kneebars
Ha, when I started the video I went “Oh, almost half an hour, I probably will watch just a few minutes and get on with my stuff”. Half an hour later here I am! Amazing video, I enjoyed it a lot. Good job on the collab, guys.
"Shirt off gives YOU extra power" - False
"Shirt off gives Magnus extra power" - True all DAY
That was a fun video. Love that not all myths were busted. I think I've been buying climbing shoes that might have been too tight for a long time. Its obviously especially important to have 'comfy' shoes on a multi-pitch route (unless you can take them off perhaps). I had tight indoor shoes and more comfortable outdoor shoes, but now I'm suspicious as to whether my tight shoes were really better
I've only used the figure 4 move once on a climb. It is hard to set because strong guys simply campus. However, I liked how at the end of that segment they mention being tired makes a difference. You need to set a figure 4 move at the end of the route when your arms are pumped and you don't have the strength to campus. Then the figure 4 becomes useful. The one time I used it was near the end of the route when I had little strength left.
We need more of these. Super entertaining and informative. Id definitely show this to my climbing friends
For the Myth of brushing the holds I felt a visceral understanding that the scrubbing motion scours off oil by much more contact with more particles of chalk, removing the oil layer. The pressure and abrasion seem to effectively sequester oil and water. This was an effective video! Thanks for making it.
The chalk and sweat fill in the surface texture of the holds, eventually making it smooth and harder to grip. You're basically filling in the surface with an oily "mud" that builds over time. Scrubbing gets the chalk out of the surface so you can grip the texture again.
“Vaguely busted” is a concept i think Adam Savage would be delighted by.
15:43 Pete is trying to find the grip from somewhere, he looks so confused there :D
"I'm not super strong"
Bit of a head scratcher there
Specially appreciated the straight arms experiment, I started just a few months ago and many times rely too much on arm strength and get tired quickly.
tbh the setup scared me. Like what if you fall wrong!
It's definitely a good experiment, but it doesn't really account for forearm/grip strength, which is certainly pretty important when pulling hard on certain holds, especially smaller ones. The experiment really only accounted for bicep-engaging arm strength. I know it's all in good fun though, and I really enjoyed the video!
Don't take anything you saw here seriously.
@@BouchyBoy well yes, but if you’re trying to keep your arms straight/relay more on your legs, you would still be using that grip strength to stay on the wall.
@@chloewilliams1702 That's exactly my point! Pete undoubtedly has more forearm/grip strength that 99% of the people watching these videos, so he is able to stay on the wall more easily while relying more on his legs and less on his bicep strength.
So to say "strength isn't needed" isn't really accurate, since Pete still has MUCH more forearm grip strength than the average climber, and many people wouldn't even be able to grip those holds he's climbing, arms straight or not.
Guys with ripped arms talking about how strength doesn't matter.
Pete is the nicest guy and you two together are like two kids are playing in the backyard and enjoying their time.
Regarding strong arms: In this case you just compensated with strong shoulders.
I just started climbing “bouldering” this year thanks to you. Always been scared of heights and this is helping me get over that. And btw I just bought my first pair of shoes scarpa dragos so much of a improvement over rentals.
Great vid, very entertaining! Took me a while to notice the progress bars behind the myth titles, they were appreciated :)
I'd like to see socks vs no socks. I am convinced it makes no difference whatsoever as long as the shoes fit.
some of the best guys at my gym wear socks, I'm inclined to agree
i typically skip through sponsorship in videos but listening to magnus i watch every second of it, so he gets every single cent from youtube. thank you magnus for helping us all and bringing us amazing content and wholesome content at that. i speak for everyone on this you make us feel like we are there with you.
Magnus: "I'm definitely not super strong"
Pete: "Woah woah woah woah woah"
Magnus can only be so humble for so long until someone has to call him out for a straight up lie 🤣
Always love the collabs between you and Pete / the Wide Boyz!
Main reason for liquid chalk in my home gym is to keep the dust down - otherwise I'd use the regular stuff. It's also not bad for travel - you can keep it with you and be a bit discreet at gyms that aren't into chalk in general.
Are you talking about climbing gyms that aren't into chalk in general or just normal gyms ? Can't imagine a climbing gym that takes itself seriously, not allowing chalk ^^
@@GreMLinSLoveCoOkies Yeah, sorry, I meant regular gym. I like to use chalk for deadlifts. I agree - hard to imagine a climbing gym that doesn't allow chalk!
Couple of buds giggling madly about everything. It's precious!
Figure four would be better from a good hold to a really bad hold because you could go static instead of dynamic. For a the tight shoe is always better question, not always, good for edges and maybe aggressive heelhooks etc. but definitely way worse on smearing and problems that need a bigger friction area like standing on volumes. Great video, much love
I absolutely love the bar in the top left which shows the progress of each part!!
I wanted them to test another bit of climbing wisdom I've heard: if you're pumped, it's better to "shake it out" than "stretch it out." I'd also be curious if the theragun releases the pump faster.
I would love to see one of these (maybe a yt short) confirming if expensive (say friction lab) chalk is better than run of the mill chalk. Then also tested against cheap chalk
Maybe I fell for marketing but I honestly feel that friction labs is LEAGUES better than any other chalk I’ve used
Regarding the first one:
You seem to forget that heavily using your arms while extended also requires them to be strong.
Love when you collab with Pete, such good vibes, fun and great projects/experiments. More please. 😀🤞
Pete, great job demonstrating good falling techniques!!
The picture quality is on another level! Great video!
I agree that liquid chalk is not stickier, but its main benefit is that your hands stay dry longer. I had a project recently that had a really bad crux hold high up and when I used liquid chalk + regular chalk, my hands were nearly dry in the crux compared to just regular chalk = really sweaty hands in the crux.
On routes I don't chalk up as much when I use liquid chalk prior to climbing. I dislike liquid chalk in general though, it doesn't feel as nice, needs to dry up and I get a ton of splits on my fingers as is, when I use liquid chalk I get much more. I have a nice sample as well, when climbing gyms opened again first after covid, liquid chalk was mandatory. Finger splits all day :D
So fun to watch you two have fun!! I've smiled so often with you two during this video because the positive atmosphere from the video is so authentic
Thanks for cool video (always enjoying the collabs with Pete ^^) ! Regarding the figure 4, a really nice example can be found on 'Délire Onirique' in Fontainebleau by Nico Pelorson: this move allowed him to stay closer to the rock, more easily than throwing his hand (on a vertical wall).
I remember an indoor climb, where figure four really was the way to go. You came out of a roof with both hands on crimps, had to let go of your feet and reach for an angled crimp outside of the roof on an overhang. Campusing it would have blown you out of the crimp due to backwards momentum. You needed that one static.
Magnus I love you’re videos, you are such a big inspiration
I didn’t understand if any of the myths were busted or not but I enjoyed the confusion on Magnus’ face throughout the whole video hahaha
Vidéo géniale, drôle et étonnamment instructive ! Merci Magnus et Pete pour votre humour et votre bonne humeur !
Ouah un commentaire en français et malgré tout magnus l’a like, surprenant
Magnus: I'm definitely not the strongest.
Pete and the viewers: Woah woah woah.
Myth 11: Lowering your heels on a slab increases contact area, improving friction.
Fact: Friction is independent of contact area. Lowering your heels slightly improves contact angle and lets you move off your foot more easily.
Test this with an inclined plane and a mass with rubber feet of different areas.
In theory the surface area increase lowers the pressure and thus the two effects cancel. However, because the rubber is soft, allowing it to conform to the irregularities of the rock, lowering your heals and increasing the contact area does in fact result in greater force due to contact area. The force is more of a mixture between the mechanical and the frictional types of forces. If the rock was more glassy or smooth, then the rubber wouldn't conform around the projecting bits of material and it would therefore conform to the high school physics model. I've often wondered about this question because I am a climber, but I have a physics degree as well. I've always noticed that the contact area does in fact increase my ability to stay on the rock, so I did some digging and realized why it isn't just a idealized coefficient of friction type problem.
@@wendywilson8488 Wouldn’t the rubber conform more to irregularities in the rock using smaller contact patch, not a larger patch? There’s also an issue of selection bias: With a wider contact patch, you are subjecting yourself to the “average” friction over that large area, whereas with a smaller contact patch, you might get unlucky and hit an area of low friction, causing you to fall. On the other hand, on a really bad surface, you might need to get lucky, so a smaller patch might land in a higher friction area. Of course, if you decrease size too much, you start destroying your rubber, so there must be a sweet spot… It’s definitely complicated, it’s not as simple as “more contact area=better friction” as many rock climbers believe.
@@hsonp_h agree
@@hsonp_h as contact area gets smaller the softer rubber will deform to the point that it 'rolls' over the the features from which it was deriving the extra area from. I think a decent comparison think about kneading dough where the bottom has great friction on the work surface but through deformation your hands move more easily. Apparent surface stretching also occurs as you roll onto your toes because bending something inherently compresses the inside of the bend and stretches the outside of the bend which similarly pulls some of that good deformation out of where it has keyed into the hold.
Given those factors the reality may be pretty close to more area = more friction except when there are features too large for the shoe to deform around such as you might have on granite. Since dropped heels will minimize sole bending stretch as you move and reduce the likelihood that the climber will unintentionally overload one part of the rubber it probably just works out to be better in a vast majority of gym cases. Worth noting that "more" has an upper boundary of "the area of two shoes" which may also keep conditions reasonably optimal for soft rubber.
a level physics xd
For me as a hand therapist its a bit confusing when you try to remove "strong arms" by not allowing them to bend. The arms are about a lot more than flexing and extending. They can rotate too. All finger strength comes mostly from the arms too. Shoulders are tied to the muscle chain in the arm too. I'd argue that climbing is mostly about arm strength. Maybe not the ability to do pure brachialis pullups, but you can't climb without gripping the holds and that is pure arm strength.
awesome video Magnus! youre the reason i started climbing!!! thanks for the entertainment and for being such a huge inspiration!!!!
Your videos with Peter are definitely the greatest ones!
Great video! You should test if you can grip better with pruned skin. Apparently our skin prunes so we can grip better in the water, it would be interesting to see if that translates in climbing
Goodness, pruned skin and rough holds 😰
That is just asking for tears in your skin :/
skin only prunes up when its wet though, and the entire point of chalk is to dry out our hands, so it'd be had to test
The chalk brushing myth. The problem with excessive chalk is that you actually create multiple molecular layers of chalk that can move against each other. Try gluing a piece of sandpaper to the floor and then to the bottom of a block. The block will be VERY difficult to move across the sandpaper floor. Now add a small layer of sand to the floor and try it again. It will be much easier to move.
So entertaining and an insightful vid! Thank you for this. As I have suspected for a while ... slightly comfortable shoes are no hindrance in reality. Laughed more than many of the other vids. Great job.
The reason that particular ice climbing move is done is because the move you compared it to imparts significantly much more force into the shelf you are climbing. Which matters in ice climbing a lot more than rock climbing. Not only this, but because it is more of a static technical move, it provides a better anchor point, less shear force on your holds and eliminates the possibility that your new hand hold fails and you drop. May not matter much to most people, but this move is primarily designed for people climbing in places where you do not take unnecessary risks because you can, and many people have died from them.
I think slippy wooden holds for the stiff shoes miff would have been better. Personally I think a soft shoes requires really strong toes to stay on bad edges, where stiffer shoes give a little more help
I love that Pete stuck to Magnus on the stiff shoe thing and how loose the test was.
Pete is such a bright personality,everyone loves him!
20:15 I think the difference between having chalk in your hands vs holds is that the chalk in your hands is supposed to be pretty thin and it's task is to keep your hands dry (avoid sweat and oil) and the best for the holds is to be as rought and porous as possible.
I guess if your hands were oily and sweaty and you didn't use chalk, then it wouldn't matter or having chalk on the holds would actually improve things.
I think Pete has never seen mythbusters 😂
the collab is great fun, but i want to point out the diting effort that went into the little timer bars for each myth! really nice touch magnus :)
1:52 sign says highest grade is magnus
Love when Pete joins you! Plus it's a two for one because we get you on the Wide Boyz! 🔥
"you need strong arms to climb hard" Mori Ai doesn't look like she would be able to snap a pencil in two using her arms, but she is one of the greatest climbers I have ever seen. Will probably surpase Janja if she keeps up.
I don't think the comparison holds up. It's about strength relative to your body, not absolute strength
That‘s because her body is lighter. The myth is strength compared to body weight.
I love the way the video sections are marked on this channel. That bar on the top left is awesome!!!
Man I learned tons on this. Our gym just forced liquid chalk for Covid reasons and I'm hearing lots of complaints of drying hands and bad grip. I guess that makes it official!
1.-Made a video with him, creating hardest route possible
2.-Made another video, playing create hardest move possible
3.-Do you like sandbagging? - No I try not to....
I've never seen anyone climb shirtless in a gym here in germany. It feels so normal when i watch scandinavian climnbing youtubers like you, Emil or Eric, but i would never dare do it myself in my gym.
Ich bin ein furchtbarer Kletterer und war erst 7-8 mal Bouldern und selbst ich hab schon ein paar mal Leute oben ohne gesehen.
@@petrl9838 wo warst du denn so unterwegs? Ich bin regelmäßig in Niedersachsen in verschiedenen Hallen, da ist das auf jeden Fall nicht gängig.
@@lolomat212 Es ist selten, aber ab und zu sieht man halt schon mal jemanden ohne Shirt.
Where I climb in the US it's also not very common. It's probably a gym by gym, or at least regional thing.