Exactly, this feature sets initial LSD torque from "lock" to fully released. It has nothing to do with rear or front wheels drive. It is all in manual.
I was under the impression that locked it acts more like 4wd where all wheels continuously get even power & the more open it is the more it allows the wheels to vary speed.
On a related note: A locked diff is effectively a solid axle, which has no torque split at all. Many people get that wrong and say, for example, the STI's center diff can lock and put down 50/50 torque- that is not correct. A differential has a nominal torque split- that NEVER changes. Diffs can just have slip-limiting mechanisms that allow the differential to get torque down varying amounts on each side- intentionally interfering with the differentials nominal torque split. In the STI's case, it allows the diff to gradually change from a diff to a solid axle. When it's locked, there is no torque split; torque will go where it can- anywhere from 0/100 to 100/0.
Id say 65/35 is best for track, fwd messes up the balance during power on cornering. Fwd track cars generally have forwards weight distribution and a firm rear to negate this, but with 4wd, you the loose rwd grip. Better balance the cars setup from a 65/35 setting letting you pivot the car with throttle in cornee exit like a rwd car. You still get the 4wd benefits with that 35% tourqe on bad roads or if weather deteriorates.
I've had my STi for so long that sometimes I forget to cover some of the more basic stuff. I will be explaining the pros/cons of getting an AccessPORT too in the coming weeks.
Firstly, congrats on the new purchase!! 👍🏻👍🏻 I always try to respond to as many of my viewers as I can--especially if they have a good question. Feel free to ask any other questions or let me know if I didn't adress something well, I'd be happy to clarify anything further for you.👍🏻 My engine is not factory, in fact it is in the process of being rebuilt. Engine reliability is something I am in the process of addressing with several videos right now. I am rebuilding my engine for the 3rd time now, however, each failure was due to a different reason. My original motor was still going strong at 130K miles. What killed it was one day I was driving on the highway & the factory lower radiator hose split open about 5 inches & drained all the coolant, so the motor seized up. That failure had nothing to do with the engine itself. I had that engine replaced with a new Subaru OEM shortblock. I upgraded the turbo, injectors, & a few other things & it was making 380whp on a DynoJet. Sadly, about a year(11K mi.) after the rebuild, the MAF sensor went bad, the engine leaned out & blew up. Again, the engine itself was not at fault. I had that engine rebuilt with an AWD Tuning Stage 1 short block, upgraded the whole fuel system & added an AFR guage. That engine was tuned more conservatively & was doing great for 2 years(25K miles) until about a month ago it decided to spin a bearing. The was the first failure I had of an engine regarding the internals. That being said, I'm still not sure what went wrong exactly because the engine hasn't been dissasembled yet, but I did notice some oil on top of the engine, as if there was a slow leak or something, so I'm wondering if there was a low oil pressure condition for some reason. I have always taken good care of my car, but the first 2 failures could be chalked up to other parts failing which caused the engine to fail. Like I said, we are still getting to the bottom of the last failure. I have had my Hawkeye for nearly 7 years now & never had any issues with ringlands, but I think that is an issue more commonly found on the 08+ STi's & has a lot more to do with the ECU & changes to emmissions requirements from the government. The 06-07's seem to be more reliable than the 08+. I don't want you to be paranoid about engine failure. A lot of it can be chalked up to poor maintenace, but a small portion of it is also bad luck or the failure of other parts. I always recommend that people save some money for when the engine does go, becuase they don't last forever. Being that your car already has 98k on it, you didn't have control over how it was cared for, so it is possible there is already some minor damage done to it due to poor maintenace. A car that is making stock power, or even stage 2 is going to last longer than one that is heaily modified. Once you upgrade the turbo & injectors, it's like walking off a financial cliff. Stage 2 gives the best bang for the buck in my opionion. TIPS: - Always stay on top of your oil changes everry 3k miles. Also be sure to check oil level every week, EJ motors tend to use oil when they get up in milage. - I would recommend definitely getting an air oil seperator if the car doesn't have one already. That will help the car run smoother, more efficiently, & will help reduce the amount of oil lost. IAG makes one of the best units. The GrimmSpeed AOS is mediocre at best. It is better than nothing, but I'd rate is 2.5 out of 5. - A Cobb AccessPORT is a great tool that not only allows you to add a tune to the car, but you can also monitor several guages & even check & clear engine codes. - An aftermark oil pickup tube is a good idea as the OEM ones tend to crack which can starve the engine. & an oil pressure guage & AFR gauge are also good ideas to get. - The timing belt, pullies, oil pump, & water pump should all be changed out at 105K miles too. 👍🏻
I love using full lock in first to gain traction on a start in deep snow. If you use the rear torque over the front to start , the rear will kick out with enough throttle. Favorite thing to do is an empty parking lot with poles to practice my gymkhana moves in rear drive mode. I uploaded one of me this past winter.
I agree. & that's awesome! It's a lot of fun to play with the DCCD in the snow. Unfortunately the last 2 winters we didn't get much snow at all & it melted pretty quick too.
hey there, proud owner of an 07 Hawkeye STI here. Maybe you or anyone reading this has an answer to my issue. When I set it on Lock, or anything front biased, its way harder to make small slow turns and I even hear clonking noises from below of my car. I only can overcome this resistance with much more throttle than I'd would with a rear biased setting. So this kinda doesnt feel right and it gets worse when car has been driven warm. Thx in advance
You don't EVER want to drive with a locked diff when you have traction. It locks your front and rear differentials so you essentially have a straight axle where your tires can only spin at the same speed, which is horrible when you have grip. The outside wheel has to be able to spin faster than the inside wheel in a corner when you have traction, the noises you are hearing are your car telling you there's a problem. Only lock when you have a situation where traction is a problem. I can't stress this enough.
@@ryanmccloskey4292 Yeah true. By now I learned about that lock thingi. The noises apparently come from the center dif. where the viscous coupling is just worn out and awaits it's replacement.
I usually keep it either in auto or on the most open setting to the rear in dry weather. In the rain, I usually prefer it to be open, or sometimes in auto depending on conditions. I like it being open because it is slightly more predictable than when on auto. If things get real sketch or it’s raining really hard, I’ll usually keep it around the mid point or slightly favor the front.
Dude…your explanation is incorrect. It’s not for controlling where torque is going. The center diff is rear-biased. The DCCD controls how much LOCK-UP there is between front and rear.
This is a basic explanation for the layman. What I said is correct. The center diff locking up changes the amount of WTQ going to the ground through Gus drivetrain & affects front & rear bias.🙄 I’m explaining the function of it, not the minute details that no one cares about & that go over most folks heads.
Haha bro you need to shut up if you don't know what you're talking about. The bias never changes when you lock or unlock your diff. Please, my friend, educate your self on how a diff works. And please, open your owner's manual and read it, it's right there in black and white from the Subaru engineers them selves explaining how it works.
mad636man I never said the STi had a mechanical split. At 1:50 I said it has an electronic 50/50 split when the DCCD switch is set to the ‘lock’ position. STi’s also are able to change that 60/40 split around & give a power bias to the front or rear wheels.
HawkeyeSTiGuy at 0:50 you say “most Subaru’s have a 50/50 split.” That is not true. I was correcting the 50/50 statement you made in my comment. Not the fact that it’s mechanical. Sorry for the miscommunication.
Thanks. You can lock it, but there really is no reason to. It can put more stress on components if you use it on dry tarmac & it also will bind up when making tight turns. I only lock it when the roads are totally snow covered or I'm off road & it's muddy.
Thanks for the video. I've owned a couple sti's but never really paid attention to each selection. Clicked subscribe, 1 step closer to that 10k subscriber mark!
Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for the sub! You definitely helped me hit that 10K mark!! I have been busy & haven't been able to keep up with posting vids as much as I'd like.
You cant just "put" the dccd into your wrx. You would need to do a transmission swap to a STi six speed and add an aftermarket controller for the dccd as far as I know.
What ThatSubieGuy said. There are writeups online on what is needed to do it, but I'm quite sure you need the 6 spd transmission & a few other bits. Some guys did the swap already & want to add DCCD. I don't think it's that big of a deal honestly. It's defenitely a cool feature to have, but I don't use it everyday. If you really want it, it's a whole lot easier to just buy an STi.
Thanks! I use Final Cut Pro X & a MacBook Pro. It's basically like iMovie on steroids, but it has a lot of professional features & is only $300. It's fairly user friendly too & isn't too hard or complicated to learn.
Say what?? You mention how there is a lot of information out there, but did you read it? Not trying to be mean, but where did this information come from? Most of what you said is just plain wrong. The gear ratio is a set ratio by the planetary gears (41F/59R on 2006-07 STi and 35F/65R on 04-05 STi). The DCCD controls how much the center differential is allowed to lock anywhere from full lock to full open. Yes, this can change the torque split through the use of the center diff, but it does not lock into a set torque split of 50/50 or 40/60. It's wildly variable depending on the setting you have it in. Read this thread for some good information: forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2443238
tcoffin014 Most of the information I got was from the forums. I read up on it a couple years ago & was going by memory. I used the term 'torque split' but that is essentially what the center diff does when it locks, it controls how the power is distributed between the front & rear axles. I wanted to give a simplified rundown of what it is so that anyone could understand it. Subaru did change the ratios slightly through the years, but as I stated in this video, I encourage people to do further research for themselves. The DCCD system is fairly complex & has changed slightly through the years, if I tried to get into the nitty-gritty specs on everything, people would be completely lost. I'm not an engineer & I don't work for Subaru, but I stand by what I said in this video.
@@subiefpv8283 Its obvious he know notta. He is here only for the rating......... suxs that i had to click on his video. wish there was way to take my click and time back.
Been doing lots of reading on this as I really want an STi hopefully within the next 11/12 months, have already found some info on the DCCD. Could i ask if it can be adjusted when the car is moving ?
Great video but I don't know if this is true but I'm pretty damn sure I don't have traction control 😂. My 2004 wrx will spin tires in the rain and makes me wonder about the snow. I tried finding the button and couldn't find it, idk if im blind or something but where would it be on an 04?
ThatSubieGuy well now I have an excuse for "accidentally sliding" when I'm out with a girl sitting in my bucket seats 😉, key to a girl's heart, and a little south, is the handbrake. Remember that kiddos
Subaru added traction control to the STi starting in 2007 (may be 08, but I'm quite sure 07). Traction control & DCCD are two separate systems, but DCCD is STi only.
You inspired me to buy an STI. Just like yours. Now i have 2011 hatchback and 2006 sti. But my question is the TICK noice on my sti. I saw a lot of videos about tick noice some say lifters some say normal tick noice. Question is WHAT IS A NORMAL TICK NOICE FOR AN 2006 STI? Thanks
Jomon Johny If I was more knowledgeable in the noise myself, I would make a video, but I'm not. Unfortunately, I really can't offer any more insight on ticking sounds than the next guy.
Saied Ali It’s up to you. I would say either auto or all the way open(green bottom most light on dash). Either of those should be fine. There really isn’t much need to have it set to anything else unless you are driving on snow or gravel. 👍🏻
holy your steering wheel is in bad shape. I have an 07 sti with 10,000 miles less and everything is mint. shift boot, e brake boot, steering wheel, etc.. seen that you changed the boots out and soon to be changing the wheel. do you use hand cream (moisturizer) or something?
I don't think it has to do as much with the total mileage as it does with how it was cared for. I purchased my car with 73K miles on it already & I don't think the previous owners, save maybe the first, ever conditioned the leather. It was also in Florida & South Carolina it's whole life until I moved back to PA a couple years ago, so when parked, that leather was easily hitting 110* or more. I was deployed several years ago & was gone for 6 months straight in the summer. When I got back, the leather was badly cracked & was falling apart. I will be replacing the wheel very soon with a wheel from a 2015 STi. The shift & ebrake boots are cheap, thin, faux leatherite material, so if yours are mint, consider yourself lucky. Mine were completely worn out & started to get holes in the creases where they folded naturally.
HawkeyeSTiGuy damn eh. Yeah the hot Florida sun will do that. mileage is also a factor, hands cause friction and friction causes wear. the more driving that is done the longer amount of time friction is being introduced to the leather. that and the blazing hot sun cooking it. With that said, love the videos man, keep up the good work
HawkeyeSTiGuy damn eh. Yeah the hot Florida sun will do that. mileage is also a factor, hands cause friction and friction causes wear. the more driving that is done the longer amount of time friction is being introduced to the leather. that and the blazing hot sun cooking it. With that said, love the videos man, keep up the good work
It can be done if you have an STi transmission installed as well. I believe there’s a write up on the old NASIOC forums. A buddy of mine did it to his 07WRX TR back in the day, but I don’t know what all he had done to do it.
Erika Quezada Nope, my car was neglected by previous owners. It had 73k miles on it when I bought it in 2010 & spent most of its life baking in the Florida & South Carolina sun. Seems like the leather was never conditioned because it deteriorated to that point within 3 years of ownership. I have wheel from a 2015 STi I plan on installing when I have the time. & thanks. 👍🏻
does anyone know why my 07 STI's transmission keeps kicking out of gear when I launch? Ill go to 1st then 2nd and then it will go to neutral.??? I do have it all the way in gear. This only happens when I'm racing someone or if I'm just launching and driving for fun...
I would have it looked at. I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like your gears may be worn. I don't launch mine because I don't want to put the car through that abuse, but it should not pop out of gear. The GD STi's also have an issue with the clutch pedal cracking. If that happens(It did on mine) it may not be fully in gear.
Yes. The Mitsubishi Evo has a selection for tarmac, gravel, or snow. There are other makes/models that have varying degrees of adjustability, but I'm not sure what all of them are.
Bro, the DCCD system doesn't change front/rear power. This is such a bad video and so many people are commenting like "thanks bro for explaining it to me". The DCCD system determines how much the centre diff is locked up, THAT'S IT. Have it on max to lock up the centre diff. Have it on lowest to completely unlock the centre diff. It's got nothing to do with sending power front or rear, Jesus fucking Christ. Especially for a dude wearing a Engineering Explained shirt. Just blows my mind.
You are incorrect. As stated, the center diff adjusts the bias of front & rear & can lock the center diff. Sorry you were too dense to understand one of the most basic videos on the DCCD system. Go read a book, or a NASIOC forum.
th-cam.com/video/K2F4RyKCi7c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sHEgXu7LeVnGMpai Here is a demonstration of the DCCD. Showing how it locks or opens the centre diff. Go read a book on how diffs work buddy and read the links you post as "proof" before you go spouting nonsense that you don't understand
Depends on the car, but mostly ranges from 1 - 4ish. But these are mainly bolt on mods per say, bc usually (from my experience) they dont require internal engine work, once you want more powrr than the stages that certain companies provide you gotta build your engine and go more boost if you car is boosted, or nos if you're running an n/a bottle build.
The dccd controls is something I've never messed with and will not mess with lol. Another thing you should never mess with is the steering angle sensor....Well if you want your dccd to work. I see your steering wheel has seen better days haha.. When's the steering wheel video coming?
Yeah, I've read up on the angle sensor. I've heard it's easy to mess up when swapping steering wheels. I plan on filming that video in the next week or so, so it'll probly be posted by the end of the month.I have at least a half-dozen projects I'm working on right now, but it's coming.
I know first hand because it happened to me. Both angle sensor and clockspring magically went bad, $500 down the toilet. I drove around for a few months like that and the amount of binding in the trans is incredible. Sounded like it was skipping splines on the center diff. The dccd goes into limp mode and goes into open position. At the time I didn't know that and thought my center diff was bad. Almost bought a used trans lol. All this because I removed my steering wheel to wrap it lol. Either way thanks for the response and looking forward to the video.
Man you are so far off what happens you should take this misinformation down! The only thing dccd does is effect the lock up of the centre diff. Power is Always split 35/65. torque moves around on lock and can have all the torques at one end of the car while on locked. In open the torque split is locked and will be 35/65 at all times The only thing you got correct is that open is slide around mode since the centre diff won’t lock up and transfer power to the front when the 65% power causes the rear to break free. Say it takes 100ftlbs to keep rear spinning your front tires will be getting 35ftlbs the whole time your sliding around. If you locked it that 100ftlbs would move to the axle with the most traction and the tires stop spinning. Educate your self before being a teacher And remember this saying cause I have a feeling it will apply to the maker of this video “When talking to a fool first make sure they aren’t doing the same”
Subie FPV You are arguing semantics & technicalities. Again, as I stated previously, I am just simplifying what DCCD is in the most basic of terms so that the average non-technical, non-car person can have an idea how it works. If I wanted to be super technical & completely by the book, I could’ve been, but that would not have helped anyone understand the basic idea of the system.
@@ParalyzedNight FROM SUBARU: “The Driver's Control Centre Differential (DCCD) allows the center differential locking of the WRX STI to be dialed in and adjust its handling. It adjusts both an electromagnetic multi-plate transfer clutch and mechanical locking of a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) to distribute torque to the front and rear wheels.” www.sportsubaru.com/subaru-si-drive-and-dccd-explained.htm#:~:text=The%20Driver's%20Control%20Centre%20Differential,the%20front%20and%20rear%20wheels. forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2892298 www.iwsti.com/threads/dccd-settings-torque-ratios.52789/#:~:text=Torque%20split%20is%20a%20fixed,idea%20of%20torque%20split%20meaningless). www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/ye2a9z/what_does_the_sti_dccd_do_how_it_works_and_why/?rdt=63534 Still liking your own comment the second you post it. Were you not loved as a child? What drugs are you on dude? Seriously. 🙄
@@hawkeyestiguy loooooool. Check your tap water, there's something in it. Where does it say there that the DCCD changes the wheel bias from front to rear? My god mate, you need to go back to school and work on your comprehension skills, just wow. Just scroll through the comments on this video and you'll see that the people who actually know how it works are all saying what I am, that you're explanation is incorrect and that you, your self don't actually understand how DCCD works. Thank you Mr Dunning-kruger.
Does anyone of you wannabe expert guys even know what is torque distribution and how does it work? Do you listen to yourself? 50:50 locked and then 60:40 but then again 50:50 but not locked LOL
Lol. You are a goat talking to me...but listen, on the 05-07 STi, you can adjust the power split. You can have the center differential locked at a 50:50 power split. Do you understand that? You can also have the power split at 50:50 without having the center diff fully locked. And you can change the power split from 40:60 to 60:40. I don't know what you don't understand about that. I can appreciate your ego & arrogance--but please at least look up what the hell you are talking about before trying to tell someone else they are stupid. You look like a complete moron.
Hey man, I didn't want to sound cocky, my bad. As the matter of fact, I know what I am talking about. Problem is that people confuse locked with 50:50 because they associate torque with the wheel speed front/rear. You have EE t-shirt, that guy has a really nice video about this stuff, take a look. When you lock the diff, you actually have an infinite number of ratios, not just 50:50. On the standard open diff (front, rear or center if it's equal torque sent to both sides) you have 50:50 torque split. You can't choose what will the fixed torque split be, you can only set how much torque will the clutches transfer from one side to the other. I just don't like these misleading videos, that's all. When you want to do an explanatory/learning video, you must get your facts straight. Cheers!
Well, reread your comment, you were a complete douchebag. So if you didn't want to sound cocky, you failed miserably at that...Lol. Don't get a job in PR. Just so you know, opening a dialogue by calling someone a "wannabe expert" & telling them to "listen to yourself" is condescending AF. Lol. 🙄 Now it appears as though you want to try & sound more reasonable cause I called you on your BS. I am more than happy to respond to any questions & comments I receive. I am typically very friendly & open to constructive criticism, but I have little tolerance for being talked down to like that, so I'm sure you understand why I am annoyed. Your comment really doesn't make much sense. I understand what you are saying, but you only elaborate on wheel speed vs. torque, & then you randomly jump to EE. No one even mentioned wheel speed vs. torque in any comments, so IDK why you brought that up. The STi only has 1 setting where the electronic center diff is locked. Obviously the torque split is going to fluctuate depending on the road surface, weight distribution, turn radius, etc, but I am trying to simplify explanations in my video, not make them more complicated than they have to be. Lay people, perhaps like myself, can easily understand a 50/50 power split. That is simple & easy to both explain & to understand. I boiled down a rather complicated system into a video under 3 minutes long. If you want a more complex answer with more numbers, I'd recommend contacting Subaru & getting ahold of the manual, but I am essentially correct in what I stated in my video & in my comments. I just dug up this thread on a forum if you want more info. Note* The ratios changed between different years. This is an older article. www.clubwrx.net/forums/sti-transmission-drivetrain/72222-dccd-explained.html That "guy" is Jason, & I have followed his Engineering Explained channel practically since he started it like 6 years ago, so yes I am very familiar with his videos. I'm not an engineer, so if anyone wants a better explanation than I can provide, I recommend that they watch his videos. I most likely will not reply to this thread further. I feel that I have explained myself adequately, & I have other comments to respond to that were left by people who did not feel the need to call me a "wannabe expert"...
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This guy has no idea what he's talking about. The next lower level from lock is 55/45 . STI can't send more torque on front wheels then on rear wheels
Exactly, this feature sets initial LSD torque from "lock" to fully released. It has nothing to do with rear or front wheels drive. It is all in manual.
I was under the impression that locked it acts more like 4wd where all wheels continuously get even power & the more open it is the more it allows the wheels to vary speed.
Here a link that explains this way better. This video is not a great explanation whatsoever. forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1281101
On a related note: A locked diff is effectively a solid axle, which has no torque split at all. Many people get that wrong and say, for example, the STI's center diff can lock and put down 50/50 torque- that is not correct. A differential has a nominal torque split- that NEVER changes. Diffs can just have slip-limiting mechanisms that allow the differential to get torque down varying amounts on each side- intentionally interfering with the differentials nominal torque split. In the STI's case, it allows the diff to gradually change from a diff to a solid axle. When it's locked, there is no torque split; torque will go where it can- anywhere from 0/100 to 100/0.
Hawkeye STi so iconic. So beautiful. Love em
I could not agree more!
In my 2005 wrx, those toggle buttons in that spot are for my heated seats. 👍
Id say 65/35 is best for track, fwd messes up the balance during power on cornering. Fwd track cars generally have forwards weight distribution and a firm rear to negate this, but with 4wd, you the loose rwd grip. Better balance the cars setup from a 65/35 setting letting you pivot the car with throttle in cornee exit like a rwd car. You still get the 4wd benefits with that 35% tourqe on bad roads or if weather deteriorates.
Just got a 5speed dccd unit for my forester
Thanks for the upload! This answers all my questions!
A13Taz Congrats bro welcome to the family!
Patrick Wilt Thanks!
Thanks for the question man! Happy to help!!
I've had my STi for so long that sometimes I forget to cover some of the more basic stuff. I will be explaining the pros/cons of getting an AccessPORT too in the coming weeks.
Firstly, congrats on the new purchase!! 👍🏻👍🏻 I always try to respond to as many of my viewers as I can--especially if they have a good question. Feel free to ask any other questions or let me know if I didn't adress something well, I'd be happy to clarify anything further for you.👍🏻
My engine is not factory, in fact it is in the process of being rebuilt. Engine reliability is something I am in the process of addressing with several videos right now. I am rebuilding my engine for the 3rd time now, however, each failure was due to a different reason.
My original motor was still going strong at 130K miles. What killed it was one day I was driving on the highway & the factory lower radiator hose split open about 5 inches & drained all the coolant, so the motor seized up. That failure had nothing to do with the engine itself.
I had that engine replaced with a new Subaru OEM shortblock. I upgraded the turbo, injectors, & a few other things & it was making 380whp on a DynoJet. Sadly, about a year(11K mi.) after the rebuild, the MAF sensor went bad, the engine leaned out & blew up. Again, the engine itself was not at fault.
I had that engine rebuilt with an AWD Tuning Stage 1 short block, upgraded the whole fuel system & added an AFR guage. That engine was tuned more conservatively & was doing great for 2 years(25K miles) until about a month ago it decided to spin a bearing. The was the first failure I had of an engine regarding the internals. That being said, I'm still not sure what went wrong exactly because the engine hasn't been dissasembled yet, but I did notice some oil on top of the engine, as if there was a slow leak or something, so I'm wondering if there was a low oil pressure condition for some reason.
I have always taken good care of my car, but the first 2 failures could be chalked up to other parts failing which caused the engine to fail. Like I said, we are still getting to the bottom of the last failure. I have had my Hawkeye for nearly 7 years now & never had any issues with ringlands, but I think that is an issue more commonly found on the 08+ STi's & has a lot more to do with the ECU & changes to emmissions requirements from the government. The 06-07's seem to be more reliable than the 08+.
I don't want you to be paranoid about engine failure. A lot of it can be chalked up to poor maintenace, but a small portion of it is also bad luck or the failure of other parts. I always recommend that people save some money for when the engine does go, becuase they don't last forever. Being that your car already has 98k on it, you didn't have control over how it was cared for, so it is possible there is already some minor damage done to it due to poor maintenace.
A car that is making stock power, or even stage 2 is going to last longer than one that is heaily modified. Once you upgrade the turbo & injectors, it's like walking off a financial cliff. Stage 2 gives the best bang for the buck in my opionion.
TIPS:
- Always stay on top of your oil changes everry 3k miles. Also be sure to check oil level every week, EJ motors tend to use oil when they get up in milage.
- I would recommend definitely getting an air oil seperator if the car doesn't have one already. That will help the car run smoother, more efficiently, & will help reduce the amount of oil lost. IAG makes one of the best units. The GrimmSpeed AOS is mediocre at best. It is better than nothing, but I'd rate is 2.5 out of 5.
- A Cobb AccessPORT is a great tool that not only allows you to add a tune to the car, but you can also monitor several guages & even check & clear engine codes.
- An aftermark oil pickup tube is a good idea as the OEM ones tend to crack which can starve the engine. & an oil pressure guage & AFR gauge are also good ideas to get.
- The timing belt, pullies, oil pump, & water pump should all be changed out at 105K miles too. 👍🏻
I love using full lock in first to gain traction on a start in deep snow. If you use the rear torque over the front to start , the rear will kick out with enough throttle. Favorite thing to do is an empty parking lot with poles to practice my gymkhana moves in rear drive mode. I uploaded one of me this past winter.
I agree. & that's awesome! It's a lot of fun to play with the DCCD in the snow. Unfortunately the last 2 winters we didn't get much snow at all & it melted pretty quick too.
Never came across dccd before am looking to upgrade to a 6 speed and needed to nobthe diff ..great vid and well explained
I’m sick of telling my friends what it’s for on there cars so I just send them the link for this video. Top work butty!
Dickie Price Thanks.
You did a great job thanks alot
very nice explanation
hey there, proud owner of an 07 Hawkeye STI here.
Maybe you or anyone reading this has an answer to my issue. When I set it on Lock, or anything front biased, its way harder to make small slow turns and I even hear clonking noises from below of my car. I only can overcome this resistance with much more throttle than I'd would with a rear biased setting. So this kinda doesnt feel right and it gets worse when car has been driven warm. Thx in advance
You don't EVER want to drive with a locked diff when you have traction. It locks your front and rear differentials so you essentially have a straight axle where your tires can only spin at the same speed, which is horrible when you have grip. The outside wheel has to be able to spin faster than the inside wheel in a corner when you have traction, the noises you are hearing are your car telling you there's a problem. Only lock when you have a situation where traction is a problem. I can't stress this enough.
@@ryanmccloskey4292 Yeah true. By now I learned about that lock thingi. The noises apparently come from the center dif. where the viscous coupling is just worn out and awaits it's replacement.
So during dry weather what would you recomend for hard driving. I have N 05 STI. & what do you keep it in when its raining..
I usually keep it either in auto or on the most open setting to the rear in dry weather. In the rain, I usually prefer it to be open, or sometimes in auto depending on conditions. I like it being open because it is slightly more predictable than when on auto. If things get real sketch or it’s raining really hard, I’ll usually keep it around the mid point or slightly favor the front.
@@hawkeyestiguy ok thnx man. I heard it was bad to always keep it in auto all the time & when driving hard. Is that true?
Dude…your explanation is incorrect. It’s not for controlling where torque is going. The center diff is rear-biased. The DCCD controls how much LOCK-UP there is between front and rear.
This is a basic explanation for the layman. What I said is correct. The center diff locking up changes the amount of WTQ going to the ground through Gus drivetrain & affects front & rear bias.🙄 I’m explaining the function of it, not the minute details that no one cares about & that go over most folks heads.
Haha bro you need to shut up if you don't know what you're talking about. The bias never changes when you lock or unlock your diff. Please, my friend, educate your self on how a diff works. And please, open your owner's manual and read it, it's right there in black and white from the Subaru engineers them selves explaining how it works.
@@ParalyzedNight So what is the natural power distribution on the STi with the diff wide open? What percentage of the power goes to the rear wheels?
The same in ALL situations, doesn't matter what the centre diff is set to. The bias is always the same.
Only the cross trek has a mechanical 50/50 split. Most other models have a 60/40 bias with clutch packs.
mad636man I never said the STi had a mechanical split. At 1:50 I said it has an electronic 50/50 split when the DCCD switch is set to the ‘lock’ position. STi’s also are able to change that 60/40 split around & give a power bias to the front or rear wheels.
HawkeyeSTiGuy at 0:50 you say “most Subaru’s have a 50/50 split.” That is not true. I was correcting the 50/50 statement you made in my comment. Not the fact that it’s mechanical. Sorry for the miscommunication.
It’s a good video otherwise. I wasn’t trying to make it seem like I didn’t like the video. I was just correcting that very very small mistake.
Great Vid!!! bro is bad to use lock setting in sunny tarmac?
Thanks. You can lock it, but there really is no reason to. It can put more stress on components if you use it on dry tarmac & it also will bind up when making tight turns. I only lock it when the roads are totally snow covered or I'm off road & it's muddy.
Thanks for the video. I've owned a couple sti's but never really paid attention to each selection. Clicked subscribe, 1 step closer to that 10k subscriber mark!
Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for the sub! You definitely helped me hit that 10K mark!! I have been busy & haven't been able to keep up with posting vids as much as I'd like.
Hi, I have a short question that does not fit the topic. I saw your STI run 161000 miles. Is still the first engine in it?
It means dccd used for sti only?
Great information man! Would you recommend putting this in a standard WRX or just rely on the Subie's system?
You cant just "put" the dccd into your wrx. You would need to do a transmission swap to a STi six speed and add an aftermarket controller for the dccd as far as I know.
What ThatSubieGuy said. There are writeups online on what is needed to do it, but I'm quite sure you need the 6 spd transmission & a few other bits. Some guys did the swap already & want to add DCCD. I don't think it's that big of a deal honestly. It's defenitely a cool feature to have, but I don't use it everyday. If you really want it, it's a whole lot easier to just buy an STi.
Hey man great video. Could you give me some advice and tell me what you use to edit your sick videos ?
Thanks! I use Final Cut Pro X & a MacBook Pro. It's basically like iMovie on steroids, but it has a lot of professional features & is only $300. It's fairly user friendly too & isn't too hard or complicated to learn.
THANK YOU MAN
@@hawkeyestiguy neiter is washing ur hands mate ,😂😂
Say what?? You mention how there is a lot of information out there, but did you read it? Not trying to be mean, but where did this information come from? Most of what you said is just plain wrong. The gear ratio is a set ratio by the planetary gears (41F/59R on 2006-07 STi and 35F/65R on 04-05 STi). The DCCD controls how much the center differential is allowed to lock anywhere from full lock to full open. Yes, this can change the torque split through the use of the center diff, but it does not lock into a set torque split of 50/50 or 40/60. It's wildly variable depending on the setting you have it in.
Read this thread for some good information: forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2443238
tcoffin014 Most of the information I got was from the forums. I read up on it a couple years ago & was going by memory. I used the term 'torque split' but that is essentially what the center diff does when it locks, it controls how the power is distributed between the front & rear axles. I wanted to give a simplified rundown of what it is so that anyone could understand it. Subaru did change the ratios slightly through the years, but as I stated in this video, I encourage people to do further research for themselves. The DCCD system is fairly complex & has changed slightly through the years, if I tried to get into the nitty-gritty specs on everything, people would be completely lost. I'm not an engineer & I don't work for Subaru, but I stand by what I said in this video.
This!!!
Sadly it's plain wrong.
You only change the lock up. You don't transfer front to rear, please don't confuse people. :(
Yeah man this guy knows notta
@@subiefpv8283 Its obvious he know notta. He is here only for the rating......... suxs that i had to click on his video. wish there was way to take my click and time back.
@@hawkeyestiguy hahahahhaha 🤣. Yes, we can all tell you are not an engineer. You don't even know how a centre diff works.
I don't own one but love this shit because engineer 😆 Wish all awd systems were adjustable. Does it default to Auto on startup?
I agree! & yeah, it always defaults to auto.
Been doing lots of reading on this as I really want an STi hopefully within the next 11/12 months, have already found some info on the DCCD.
Could i ask if it can be adjusted when the car is moving ?
Gary Steven Awesome! Yes, it can be adjusted with the car moving. 👍🏻
I really wonder have you bought an STI?
@@derincosar5699 No
Looking now for either an Audi A4 estate or a Focus ST estate
@@G4RY1159 What changed your mind?
@@derincosar5699 parts & insurance / tax etc was just mega expensive, plus a good unmodified car in the uk was very difficult to source
Great video but I don't know if this is true but I'm pretty damn sure I don't have traction control 😂. My 2004 wrx will spin tires in the rain and makes me wonder about the snow. I tried finding the button and couldn't find it, idk if im blind or something but where would it be on an 04?
STI only :)
ThatSubieGuy well now I have an excuse for "accidentally sliding" when I'm out with a girl sitting in my bucket seats 😉, key to a girl's heart, and a little south, is the handbrake. Remember that kiddos
Subaru added traction control to the STi starting in 2007 (may be 08, but I'm quite sure 07). Traction control & DCCD are two separate systems, but DCCD is STi only.
Thank you!
You inspired me to buy an STI. Just like yours. Now i have 2011 hatchback and 2006 sti. But my question is the TICK noice on my sti. I saw a lot of videos about tick noice some say lifters some say normal tick noice.
Question is WHAT IS A NORMAL TICK NOICE FOR AN 2006 STI? Thanks
It sounds like it's normal to me. My car has always had a faint ticking sound. I would only worry about it if it was really loud.
HawkeyeSTiGuy did you hear my sti noice video?
I just listened to it. I'm not sure what that is, but it doesn't really sound normal to me. I would have it looked at.
HawkeyeSTiGuy ticking noice is all over the youtube but nobody really knows anything about it. COULD YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO ABOUT TICK NOICE?
Jomon Johny If I was more knowledgeable in the noise myself, I would make a video, but I'm not. Unfortunately, I really can't offer any more insight on ticking sounds than the next guy.
Can 50/50 full lock on dry tarmac cause harm to the center diff ?
technically and mostly yes
Nice short and sweet explanation!
Thanks man!
Daily driver 04 in the caribbean should i just leave it in auto or which mode is best
Saied Ali It’s up to you. I would say either auto or all the way open(green bottom most light on dash). Either of those should be fine. There really isn’t much need to have it set to anything else unless you are driving on snow or gravel. 👍🏻
great explanation - thank you so much
holy your steering wheel is in bad shape. I have an 07 sti with 10,000 miles less and everything is mint. shift boot, e brake boot, steering wheel, etc.. seen that you changed the boots out and soon to be changing the wheel. do you use hand cream (moisturizer) or something?
I don't think it has to do as much with the total mileage as it does with how it was cared for. I purchased my car with 73K miles on it already & I don't think the previous owners, save maybe the first, ever conditioned the leather. It was also in Florida & South Carolina it's whole life until I moved back to PA a couple years ago, so when parked, that leather was easily hitting 110* or more. I was deployed several years ago & was gone for 6 months straight in the summer. When I got back, the leather was badly cracked & was falling apart. I will be replacing the wheel very soon with a wheel from a 2015 STi.
The shift & ebrake boots are cheap, thin, faux leatherite material, so if yours are mint, consider yourself lucky. Mine were completely worn out & started to get holes in the creases where they folded naturally.
HawkeyeSTiGuy damn eh. Yeah the hot Florida sun will do that. mileage is also a factor, hands cause friction and friction causes wear. the more driving that is done the longer amount of time friction is being introduced to the leather. that and the blazing hot sun cooking it.
With that said, love the videos man, keep up the good work
HawkeyeSTiGuy damn eh. Yeah the hot Florida sun will do that. mileage is also a factor, hands cause friction and friction causes wear. the more driving that is done the longer amount of time friction is being introduced to the leather. that and the blazing hot sun cooking it.
With that said, love the videos man, keep up the good work
Would it be possible to install a dccd on a wrx?
It can be done if you have an STi transmission installed as well. I believe there’s a write up on the old NASIOC forums. A buddy of mine did it to his 07WRX TR back in the day, but I don’t know what all he had done to do it.
Awesome video bro great information. I always keep mine on auto I let the car decide but I will be messing with it soon :)
Thanks man!!
Can I install a 2005 dccd into a Hawkeye sti wd it fit?
Perfect explanation bro! This was much needed
Thanks!
hello... mine subaru gc8 V5 why my C.Diff blinking... how to sattle it..?
Nice. Good info
Dude have you been chewing on your steering wheel or what. We have virtually the same year yours makes mine look brand new lol. Good video 👍
Erika Quezada Nope, my car was neglected by previous owners. It had 73k miles on it when I bought it in 2010 & spent most of its life baking in the Florida & South Carolina sun. Seems like the leather was never conditioned because it deteriorated to that point within 3 years of ownership.
I have wheel from a 2015 STi I plan on installing when I have the time. & thanks. 👍🏻
HawkeyeSTiGuy oh geez sorry to hear that. Awesome video helps the rest of us so we can be a little proactive
now I can really snow drift lol
does anyone know why my 07 STI's transmission keeps kicking out of gear when I launch? Ill go to 1st then 2nd and then it will go to neutral.??? I do have it all the way in gear. This only happens when I'm racing someone or if I'm just launching and driving for fun...
I would have it looked at. I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds like your gears may be worn. I don't launch mine because I don't want to put the car through that abuse, but it should not pop out of gear. The GD STi's also have an issue with the clutch pedal cracking. If that happens(It did on mine) it may not be fully in gear.
right, cool man. thanks
Are there other cars with similar systems.
Yes. The Mitsubishi Evo has a selection for tarmac, gravel, or snow. There are other makes/models that have varying degrees of adjustability, but I'm not sure what all of them are.
Bro, the DCCD system doesn't change front/rear power. This is such a bad video and so many people are commenting like "thanks bro for explaining it to me". The DCCD system determines how much the centre diff is locked up, THAT'S IT. Have it on max to lock up the centre diff. Have it on lowest to completely unlock the centre diff. It's got nothing to do with sending power front or rear, Jesus fucking Christ. Especially for a dude wearing a Engineering Explained shirt. Just blows my mind.
You are incorrect. As stated, the center diff adjusts the bias of front & rear & can lock the center diff. Sorry you were too dense to understand one of the most basic videos on the DCCD system. Go read a book, or a NASIOC forum.
You can start your studies here. forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=897129
Mate, if you read the link you posted you'd notice that you're wrong. You can also open your owner's manual.
th-cam.com/video/K2F4RyKCi7c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sHEgXu7LeVnGMpai
Here is a demonstration of the DCCD. Showing how it locks or opens the centre diff. Go read a book on how diffs work buddy and read the links you post as "proof" before you go spouting nonsense that you don't understand
@@ParalyzedNight Stop liking your own comments. 🤣🤣 How insecure are you? And no, you simply are not understanding torque split/bias. SMH.
How many stages do perfomance parts have?
Depends on the car, but mostly ranges from 1 - 4ish. But these are mainly bolt on mods per say, bc usually (from my experience) they dont require internal engine work, once you want more powrr than the stages that certain companies provide you gotta build your engine and go more boost if you car is boosted, or nos if you're running an n/a bottle build.
my dccd sometimes works but smoetimes it does not works.it shows blinking green light.can u please tell me how to fix that problem?
The dccd controls is something I've never messed with and will not mess with lol. Another thing you should never mess with is the steering angle sensor....Well if you want your dccd to work.
I see your steering wheel has seen better days haha.. When's the steering wheel video coming?
Yeah, I've read up on the angle sensor. I've heard it's easy to mess up when swapping steering wheels. I plan on filming that video in the next week or so, so it'll probly be posted by the end of the month.I have at least a half-dozen projects I'm working on right now, but it's coming.
I know first hand because it happened to me. Both angle sensor and clockspring magically went bad, $500 down the toilet. I drove around for a few months like that and the amount of binding in the trans is incredible. Sounded like it was skipping splines on the center diff.
The dccd goes into limp mode and goes into open position. At the time I didn't know that and thought my center diff was bad. Almost bought a used trans lol. All this because I removed my steering wheel to wrap it lol. Either way thanks for the response and looking forward to the video.
Man you are so far off what happens you should take this misinformation down!
The only thing dccd does is effect the lock up of the centre diff. Power is
Always split 35/65.
torque moves around on lock and can have all the torques at one end of the car while on locked. In open the torque split is locked and will be 35/65 at all times
The only thing you got correct is that open is slide around mode since the centre diff won’t lock up and transfer power to the front when the 65% power causes the rear to break free. Say it takes 100ftlbs to keep rear spinning your front tires will be getting 35ftlbs the whole time your sliding around.
If you locked it that 100ftlbs would move to the axle with the most traction and the tires stop spinning.
Educate your self before being a teacher
And remember this saying cause I have a feeling it will apply to the maker of this video
“When talking to a fool first make sure they aren’t doing the same”
Subie FPV You are arguing semantics & technicalities. Again, as I stated previously, I am just simplifying what DCCD is in the most basic of terms so that the average non-technical, non-car person can have an idea how it works. If I wanted to be super technical & completely by the book, I could’ve been, but that would not have helped anyone understand the basic idea of the system.
@@hawkeyestiguy You are a perfect example of the dunning-kruger effect.
@@ParalyzedNight FROM SUBARU: “The Driver's Control Centre Differential (DCCD) allows the center differential locking of the WRX STI to be dialed in and adjust its handling. It adjusts both an electromagnetic multi-plate transfer clutch and mechanical locking of a Limited Slip Differential (LSD) to distribute torque to the front and rear wheels.”
www.sportsubaru.com/subaru-si-drive-and-dccd-explained.htm#:~:text=The%20Driver's%20Control%20Centre%20Differential,the%20front%20and%20rear%20wheels.
forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2892298
www.iwsti.com/threads/dccd-settings-torque-ratios.52789/#:~:text=Torque%20split%20is%20a%20fixed,idea%20of%20torque%20split%20meaningless).
www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/ye2a9z/what_does_the_sti_dccd_do_how_it_works_and_why/?rdt=63534
Still liking your own comment the second you post it. Were you not loved as a child? What drugs are you on dude? Seriously. 🙄
@@hawkeyestiguy loooooool. Check your tap water, there's something in it. Where does it say there that the DCCD changes the wheel bias from front to rear? My god mate, you need to go back to school and work on your comprehension skills, just wow. Just scroll through the comments on this video and you'll see that the people who actually know how it works are all saying what I am, that you're explanation is incorrect and that you, your self don't actually understand how DCCD works. Thank you Mr Dunning-kruger.
Dunning-kruger
What does the "in between" setting do?
R u mauritian ??
No I am not.
Does anyone of you wannabe expert guys even know what is torque distribution and how does it work? Do you listen to yourself? 50:50 locked and then 60:40 but then again 50:50 but not locked LOL
Lol. You are a goat talking to me...but listen, on the 05-07 STi, you can adjust the power split. You can have the center differential locked at a 50:50 power split. Do you understand that? You can also have the power split at 50:50 without having the center diff fully locked. And you can change the power split from 40:60 to 60:40. I don't know what you don't understand about that.
I can appreciate your ego & arrogance--but please at least look up what the hell you are talking about before trying to tell someone else they are stupid. You look like a complete moron.
Hey man, I didn't want to sound cocky, my bad. As the matter of fact, I know what I am talking about. Problem is that people confuse locked with 50:50 because they associate torque with the wheel speed front/rear. You have EE t-shirt, that guy has a really nice video about this stuff, take a look. When you lock the diff, you actually have an infinite number of ratios, not just 50:50. On the standard open diff (front, rear or center if it's equal torque sent to both sides) you have 50:50 torque split. You can't choose what will the fixed torque split be, you can only set how much torque will the clutches transfer from one side to the other. I just don't like these misleading videos, that's all. When you want to do an explanatory/learning video, you must get your facts straight. Cheers!
Well, reread your comment, you were a complete douchebag. So if you didn't want to sound cocky, you failed miserably at that...Lol. Don't get a job in PR. Just so you know, opening a dialogue by calling someone a "wannabe expert" & telling them to "listen to yourself" is condescending AF. Lol. 🙄 Now it appears as though you want to try & sound more reasonable cause I called you on your BS. I am more than happy to respond to any questions & comments I receive. I am typically very friendly & open to constructive criticism, but I have little tolerance for being talked down to like that, so I'm sure you understand why I am annoyed.
Your comment really doesn't make much sense. I understand what you are saying, but you only elaborate on wheel speed vs. torque, & then you randomly jump to EE. No one even mentioned wheel speed vs. torque in any comments, so IDK why you brought that up.
The STi only has 1 setting where the electronic center diff is locked. Obviously the torque split is going to fluctuate depending on the road surface, weight distribution, turn radius, etc, but I am trying to simplify explanations in my video, not make them more complicated than they have to be. Lay people, perhaps like myself, can easily understand a 50/50 power split. That is simple & easy to both explain & to understand. I boiled down a rather complicated system into a video under 3 minutes long. If you want a more complex answer with more numbers, I'd recommend contacting Subaru & getting ahold of the manual, but I am essentially correct in what I stated in my video & in my comments. I just dug up this thread on a forum if you want more info. Note* The ratios changed between different years. This is an older article. www.clubwrx.net/forums/sti-transmission-drivetrain/72222-dccd-explained.html
That "guy" is Jason, & I have followed his Engineering Explained channel practically since he started it like 6 years ago, so yes I am very familiar with his videos. I'm not an engineer, so if anyone wants a better explanation than I can provide, I recommend that they watch his videos.
I most likely will not reply to this thread further. I feel that I have explained myself adequately, & I have other comments to respond to that were left by people who did not feel the need to call me a "wannabe expert"...
HawkeyeSTiGuy look who's the db now. Ok mate, keep yourself stupid then.
@@niipheus Dam He got triggered.
I'm pretty sure the 04 I think 2.5 rs came with a 60:40
Possibly. I know they changed the torque split a few times. I think there's a write up on nasioc about it.
60/40 rear bias
so shaaaaky
En Francais merci
F11 iS nO JoKe
Lmao!!!! That ad keeps popping up when I watch videos too! Nice meme! Haha.
Wtf 🤣