There’s nothing wrong with an OEM oil cooler. It’s just a matter of making sure it doesn’t clog (monitoring your coolant/oil delta) All oil coolers eventually clog, the issue with a 6.0 is the cooler is in a PIA location. I have 440xxx miles on my stock 6.0 with an EGR delete, straight pipe and tune.
@hinds90 EGT - require tapping into the exhaust manifold with a pyrometer gauge. I use MaxTow Brand and it's been great for the last 5 years. Fuel Pressure - require installation of an external sensor that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. MaxTow brand seems to be lasting again. FICM - any OBD2 dongle to a phone or radio head unit with display. or ScanGauge 2@@hinds90
You don't need a CAI or a intake elbow to make 450whp. There's plenty of trucks making well over 1000hp with a factory oil cooler. Plus if your wanting to make 500whp plus you should have a regulated return feul system.
Not needing it doesn't necessarily mean that you shouldn't have it. Yes, the factory intake can flow enough to support 500 but there are still a lot of benefits to upgrading it well before pushing its limit. Thanks for pointing out the regulated return fueling - that's good advice.
I’m putting a 6.0 powerstroke in a 1952 Pontiac chieftain. Would love to boost the power up a bit, motor and trans came from a van so it’s the detuned model. I plan on deleting and bulletproofing it. Will a tuner for the f series work just fine on the van? Not really looking to do hp tuners with this, would like to have some sotf options.
To the wheels? Depending on tuning you can probably get them there just wouldn't expect them to have anything left in the tank after that + likely you'll need to upgrade them at some point due to failure.
Wrong. The heads on a 6.0 lift because if you overtune the engine. (Advance) the timing to much you build up more pressure and heat in the cylinders causing something to give and that is the stock head bolts. And another problem with the 6.0 is you got younger guys out here buying them and expecting the 6.0 to hold up and put out the same power as the newest 6.7 diesels out here on the road. 🙄 in reality the 6.0 still has a lot of technology from the 7.3 and was never built or ment to hold up near as today's diesels with over 1.000 lbs of torque.
You have absolutely no idea what you’re talking about😂 6.0s headgasket issues come from the egr rupturing because it gets starved of coolant from a clogged oil cooler. Also they absolutely will hold the power newer engines. They have a much stronger rotating assembly than any 6.7. You need to do some research.
@masonh2538 I guess you don't have a 6.0 with over 700hp that you built yourself and had problems with during the process. You're just going by what everyone else says about the 6.0 on the internet. What lifters are in the 6.0 and why do they fail prematurely?
@masonh2538 even with the egr fully deleted gone it still blows headgaskets due to overtuning and pressure and heat expansion. Thin metal headgaskets are the way to go but you have to change the geometry of the pushrods for the lifters since metal gaskets bri g the head closer to the deck of the block for more compression even if it is 1mm. Speaking of the lifters. The lifters in the 6.0 are the same exact lifters in the 5.7 Hemi and/or 351 chevy small block. Same part number. The lifters were never intended for the 6.0 due to its cam lobe. Otherwords the lifters are way to small for the rotation of the cam. Again means if the cam is at 2.000 rpms the lifters are at 3 to 4.000 rpms because they do not match the geometry of the cam lobe. In the 6.4 the lifters are twice the size as in the 6.0 and are huge and they don't wear out very easy. The lifters in the 6.0 spin more than the geometry and setup of the valvetrain.
@@johnwharton3038 yet again here you are proving you have no idea what your talking about. The lifters in the 6.0 are LITERALLY the same as the ones in the 7.3 and 6.4. Same part number. Guess I don’t know where you’re getting your info because it’s literally on other TH-cam channels (powerstrokehelp for example) that they’re all the same. And a quick google search will tell you the same. The 6.7 have the bigger lifters. Idk what you’re on about.
So as a mopar guy I don’t know too much about the ford transmissions but how does a zf6 stack up to the autos in terms of power handling? The 6.0 I’m looking at has one and just don’t know where it stands
ZF6 is alright, torque is usually the killer. It will hold up better than an auto, the clutch is just really weak. Completely stock you can probably get around 350whp and maybe 700s for torque. But toss a dual disc clutch in and you should be set for 500hp+. Can handle 1000tq+ with an upgraded clutch but you'll probably burn threw a few at those power levels. Also they don't launch well, so if you plan on attempting to drag race it that's a good way to kill it. But overall they're pretty good with just a clutch upgrade - overall it's easier to upgrade than the auto, just a clutch vs building out the trans. Just depends on the driving experience you're going for though.
Srry brother but you dont know 6.0s the stock air filter and intake is good until you're in the 600s and its pretty common knowledge in the 6.0 world. Waste of money.
I'd disagree - whether it can handle those power levels is different than whether it should. An intake will still outflow the factory box any day of the week and there are always benefits to additional airflow on a turbo engine
Why not mention FICM tuning example I have the grizzly performance FICM with the 40 horsepower mod. Also very important is the charging system moved up to a Mechman 320 amp alternator and larger gauge charging wires.
Atlas 80 FICM tune plus a 4 inch downpipe and S&B intake, and a blue spring mod will take you pretty far. I have much more on mine but that'd be a good starting place for most people. Id recommend bulletproofing your engine before looking at any power adder.
Great Tips! My low-milage 6.0 is seeing an exhaust upgrade (4" turbo-back no muffler) and blue spring kit, can't wait to see more 6.0 videos!
Thanks for the insight! We'll keep them coming!
Stumbled upon this video… this is some quality stuff. Earned a new sub
Mac - We appreciate it! Hope it helped.
There’s nothing wrong with an OEM oil cooler. It’s just a matter of making sure it doesn’t clog (monitoring your coolant/oil delta)
All oil coolers eventually clog, the issue with a 6.0 is the cooler is in a PIA location.
I have 440xxx miles on my stock 6.0 with an EGR delete, straight pipe and tune.
Boot - Thanks for sharing your experience.
priority mods: monitor for egt, fuel pressure and ficm voltages
Ang - Thanks for sharing this insight!
Whats the best monitor yo keep a eye on those parameters?
@hinds90
EGT - require tapping into the exhaust manifold with a pyrometer gauge. I use MaxTow Brand and it's been great for the last 5 years.
Fuel Pressure - require installation of an external sensor that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. MaxTow brand seems to be lasting again.
FICM - any OBD2 dongle to a phone or radio head unit with display. or ScanGauge 2@@hinds90
Im not worried about more hp i just want my truck to run and function as it should
Bulletproof it and it should
Can you guys make some CAC pipes in that crinkle black finish? Id be big time interested.
O - We'll look into it!
You don't need a CAI or a intake elbow to make 450whp. There's plenty of trucks making well over 1000hp with a factory oil cooler. Plus if your wanting to make 500whp plus you should have a regulated return feul system.
Not needing it doesn't necessarily mean that you shouldn't have it. Yes, the factory intake can flow enough to support 500 but there are still a lot of benefits to upgrading it well before pushing its limit. Thanks for pointing out the regulated return fueling - that's good advice.
What oil cooler do you recommend??
R - We're big fans of BPD's.
I’m putting a 6.0 powerstroke in a 1952 Pontiac chieftain. Would love to boost the power up a bit, motor and trans came from a van so it’s the detuned model. I plan on deleting and bulletproofing it. Will a tuner for the f series work just fine on the van? Not really looking to do hp tuners with this, would like to have some sotf options.
Parker - That could be a cool build! It should work, but check which vehicles it fits before purchasing.
😢hat should be a cool build and with deleting building Id find a tuner and ask them cause you'll want a custom tune!!
Told by blessed I would be at 475 with stock injectors
To the wheels? Depending on tuning you can probably get them there just wouldn't expect them to have anything left in the tank after that + likely you'll need to upgrade them at some point due to failure.
Wrong. The heads on a 6.0 lift because if you overtune the engine. (Advance) the timing to much you build up more pressure and heat in the cylinders causing something to give and that is the stock head bolts. And another problem with the 6.0 is you got younger guys out here buying them and expecting the 6.0 to hold up and put out the same power as the newest 6.7 diesels out here on the road. 🙄 in reality the 6.0 still has a lot of technology from the 7.3 and was never built or ment to hold up near as today's diesels with over 1.000 lbs of torque.
You have absolutely no idea what you’re talking about😂 6.0s headgasket issues come from the egr rupturing because it gets starved of coolant from a clogged oil cooler. Also they absolutely will hold the power newer engines. They have a much stronger rotating assembly than any 6.7. You need to do some research.
@masonh2538 I guess you don't have a 6.0 with over 700hp that you built yourself and had problems with during the process. You're just going by what everyone else says about the 6.0 on the internet. What lifters are in the 6.0 and why do they fail prematurely?
Well mine ate those at 365k but the updated part is the 6.4 loft like 50 thou shorter
@masonh2538 even with the egr fully deleted gone it still blows headgaskets due to overtuning and pressure and heat expansion. Thin metal headgaskets are the way to go but you have to change the geometry of the pushrods for the lifters since metal gaskets bri g the head closer to the deck of the block for more compression even if it is 1mm. Speaking of the lifters. The lifters in the 6.0 are the same exact lifters in the 5.7 Hemi and/or 351 chevy small block. Same part number. The lifters were never intended for the 6.0 due to its cam lobe. Otherwords the lifters are way to small for the rotation of the cam. Again means if the cam is at 2.000 rpms the lifters are at 3 to 4.000 rpms because they do not match the geometry of the cam lobe. In the 6.4 the lifters are twice the size as in the 6.0 and are huge and they don't wear out very easy. The lifters in the 6.0 spin more than the geometry and setup of the valvetrain.
@@johnwharton3038 yet again here you are proving you have no idea what your talking about. The lifters in the 6.0 are LITERALLY the same as the ones in the 7.3 and 6.4. Same part number. Guess I don’t know where you’re getting your info because it’s literally on other TH-cam channels (powerstrokehelp for example) that they’re all the same. And a quick google search will tell you the same. The 6.7 have the bigger lifters. Idk what you’re on about.
So as a mopar guy I don’t know too much about the ford transmissions but how does a zf6 stack up to the autos in terms of power handling? The 6.0 I’m looking at has one and just don’t know where it stands
ZF6 is alright, torque is usually the killer. It will hold up better than an auto, the clutch is just really weak. Completely stock you can probably get around 350whp and maybe 700s for torque. But toss a dual disc clutch in and you should be set for 500hp+. Can handle 1000tq+ with an upgraded clutch but you'll probably burn threw a few at those power levels. Also they don't launch well, so if you plan on attempting to drag race it that's a good way to kill it. But overall they're pretty good with just a clutch upgrade - overall it's easier to upgrade than the auto, just a clutch vs building out the trans. Just depends on the driving experience you're going for though.
If u want the 6.0 to last over a million miles never try to get more out of it. Excessive heat from tuners ruins a stock 6.0 or any diesel
F - We agree to an extent. Bulletproofing is the best route to 1M miles.
Srry brother but you dont know 6.0s the stock air filter and intake is good until you're in the 600s and its pretty common knowledge in the 6.0 world. Waste of money.
I'd disagree - whether it can handle those power levels is different than whether it should. An intake will still outflow the factory box any day of the week and there are always benefits to additional airflow on a turbo engine
The stock air filter is a pain in the ass to get in and out main reason I replaced mine with an s&b cold air intake
I used to change oil at a ford dealership.
I HATED the factory filter, it was a PAIN to change, so I never tried to sell them. 😂
Why not mention FICM tuning example I have the grizzly performance FICM with the 40 horsepower mod. Also very important is the charging system moved up to a Mechman 320 amp alternator and larger gauge charging wires.
Gym - We just mentioned our favorite mods, however, these aren't the only mods. Thanks for adding this insight!
Atlas 80 FICM tune plus a 4 inch downpipe and S&B intake, and a blue spring mod will take you pretty far. I have much more on mine but that'd be a good starting place for most people. Id recommend bulletproofing your engine before looking at any power adder.
Great information, at the end . You said and like you had even more great info
J - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it was helpful.
The TS is only better for monitoring. Its not the better tuner.
O - Correct.
Do you have a video like this for a 5.9 commonrail
I don't think we've done it yet on here but checkout dieseliq.com we definitely have some there
what size are stock injectors on the 6.0 though?
They are 135cc. Lots of things on the internet say 155, but they are 135 and they actually tend to flow a bit less than that rating too.
@@8020Media ok. Idk cuz I want around 500hp maybe a bit more but idk. I mean a set of 155cc injectors are what 900 idk