Absolutely love this! Glad the algorith is giving it the attention it deserves, looking forward for more old school carbd/mechanical fuel injection BOOST 🤙🤙
Great vid! Only thing I’d say about a Webber for boost is the limits of flow from the needle valve could be a limitation at higher power especially for e85 and a little bit of modifying of the fuel passages to the needle could see some better flow,btw love the r series Toyota engine but it’s going be worthwhile for a swap maybe a 3rz or Honda k they will max that turbo out
3SGE is on my short list since they are available with a complete 6spd. The intake and exhaust are also on the correct sides for the current chassis setup.
Sorry you didn't continue with this project. As antequated as these engines are, they can put out alot of torque and decent power with a 38/38 weber blow through setup as yours which can support a decent amount of CFM/ horsepower with the standard 27mm venturies and enough fuel flow for 400HP+ . Water methanol injection with current C.R. or a drop in C.R. using flat top 22R pistons with a bump up in ignition timimg would of taken care of the detonation issues.. With a camshaft upgrade, headport work and some double valve springs you would of had a very serious monster on your hands..
Man I've done alot with the 22r 20r and 22re I've tune and done many 22re engines without ring land failure. I'd recommend a maxxecu personally. Megasquirt will work for sure but the control I've found is better with maxx, haltech, motec, ecu masters and a few others.
No, its drilled out just to allow more flow. In a blow-through setup, the power valve is already boost referenced. In a draw-through setup you need a separate boost reference hose.
@@ozarkgarage Hello what size drill bit did you used for the power valve? I'm currently working on a draw-throught setup and since I've seen your video I want to convert my build into E85!
@@saidsalgado7581 I didn't write it down unfortunately. I used the same process as the main jets and measured using a drill bit with a good fit and then went up in size accordingly.
I have a question for you since you have done this. I have essentially the same 22r blow through setup minus e85. I'm getting into the tuning stage with the Weber and I want to know how you open up the power circuit? I see you drilled and tapped that hole to access the ports, do you just drill those power circuit ports out until your numbers are good? I did a couple laps around my block and I was at about 16:1 peak while boost was coming on. Normal cruise was sitting at about 12:1 and I don't want to go crazy drilling out my mains since its not that bad pre-boost now.
I'm not sure what you mean about sealing the throttle body. If you are referring to the throttle plate shafts in the carburetor body, no, I didn't seal those. They are a close enough machined fit (assuming your carb isn't worn out) to hold boost/vacuum.
Can anyone anwer my question.... I need to tubrocharge my fiat uno 45 car,carburetor engine.....how will be the fuel consumption on the car.....i need it to run on less fuel...🙁
Hey man I hope you can solve me this question. If I install this exact setup but with intercooler my car would be reliable If I use regular fuel? In my country there's no such thing like premiun fuel or E85. I live in a hot city
Hi! Nice video, I'm building the same blow-through setup with a supercharger. I have gone through all the comments and you mentioned that the power valve is actually already boosted referenced in a blow-through setup, u drill it only to allow more flow and enrich AFR. Do you reckon I can get away with just switching the main jets to a bigger size to enrich the mixture? Also, I'm suffering from the car running lean under sudden throttle input, so when you suddenly floor it, the AFR leans all the way out of the range and the engine nearly dies. After seconds it will pick up and go well, or sometimes I have to let go of the throttle. The small throttle input seems fine, slowly press down the throttle to WOT, and it will run fine. Sorry for the long text, any advice would be a big help for me. Much appreciated!!
You may be able to go to go with large enough main jets, or smaller air bleeds. A supercharger has a linear boost curve, unlike a turbo. The lean condition on rapid throttle change is an issue with the accelerator pump or pump jet. Make sure yours is working properly first of all, the jet can get clogged and the diaphragm in the pump can get torn or filled with crud. There really aren't larger jets available, so if you need a larger one, you will have to drill yours out for more flow.
@@ozarkgarage ah thanks for replying man, yeh was suspecting about the accelerate pump too, but I can clearly see it squirts streams of fuel when I flap the throttle, so it shouldn't be clogged. Is the accelerate pump standalong or it is within the idle circuit and affected by the idle jets? I'm also suspecting the idle jets being too small, resulting the progression circuit not picking up enough fuel when throttle being opened. Not sure if jeting up idle jets will as well enrich accelerate pump. But i'm already on 60 idle jets, the engine is just a 1.6L 4 banger. I doubt if I should still go up LOL
@@ozarkgarage yeh that's what i was confused about, I hardly see people using idle jets bigger than 60. I have the screw 3 turns out already, with 60 idle jets.
I didn't write it down, unfortunately. I used the AFR/Boost curves on the laptop and gradually increased the size until it was where I wanted it. There is no good way to go smaller once you go too big.
No, the power valve gets a vacuum/boost signal elsewhere. The port I opened in the carb was just to allow me access to drill out the power valve fuel circuits. I plugged the port after I opened up the circuits.
I think the Weber came with 145 main and I ended up running 190 with the E85 (it has been a while). I can't remember what I drilled the power valve circuit out to. As for tuning, the wideband AFR gauge is the only way you can accurately tune it. I'm putting EFI on the car now, I'll have a video for how I road tune, it's the same method for EFI and carb.
Double check to make sure your fuel pressure is rising with boost. If the boost is greater than the fuel pressure, the fuel level in the float bowl will drop or worse go dry.
We want a 22r turbo build! Build it!! Build it!! Build it!! Lol
Absolutely love this! Glad the algorith is giving it the attention it deserves, looking forward for more old school carbd/mechanical fuel injection BOOST 🤙🤙
Great video, looking forward to the next one.
Thanks!
Very interesting build 👍🏽
Thanks!
Lots of great info. Thanks!
You bet!
Love this! I'm boosting my l16, excuse to buy a new block when it dies
Great vid! Only thing I’d say about a Webber for boost is the limits of flow from the needle valve could be a limitation at higher power especially for e85 and a little bit of modifying of the fuel passages to the needle could see some better flow,btw love the r series Toyota engine but it’s going be worthwhile for a swap maybe a 3rz or Honda k they will max that turbo out
3SGE is on my short list since they are available with a complete 6spd. The intake and exhaust are also on the correct sides for the current chassis setup.
To overcome the needle valve flow I use 3.00 mm ones in my twin 32/36 blow through setup on my 3TC.
How much boost were you running max
Sorry you didn't continue with this project. As antequated as these engines are, they can put out alot of torque and decent power with a 38/38 weber blow through setup as yours which can support a decent amount of CFM/ horsepower with the standard 27mm venturies and enough fuel flow for 400HP+ .
Water methanol injection with current C.R. or a drop in C.R. using flat top 22R pistons with a bump up in ignition timimg would of taken care of the detonation issues..
With a camshaft upgrade, headport work and some double valve springs you would of had a very serious monster on your hands..
Flat top (85+) 22R pistons would drop the compression too much. The later engines have a lower deck height.
I learn so much in the comments
Did you think about a Holley sniper 2300 efi? I ran that on my 85 yota with a 22r with a cheap eBay turbo 🤘🏼
A megasquirt-based EFI is the next step for the R-series engine.
Man I've done alot with the 22r 20r and 22re I've tune and done many 22re engines without ring land failure. I'd recommend a maxxecu personally. Megasquirt will work for sure but the control I've found is better with maxx, haltech, motec, ecu masters and a few others.
Weber performance offer a similar carb hat or 'plenum'
Quite a bit more expensive, but if it holds boost and an intake coupler will fit, might be worth it.
So that power valve circuit hole you drilled, did it have a hose fitting and a boost reference hose hooked up to it?
No, its drilled out just to allow more flow. In a blow-through setup, the power valve is already boost referenced. In a draw-through setup you need a separate boost reference hose.
@@ozarkgarage Hello what size drill bit did you used for the power valve? I'm currently working on a draw-throught setup and since I've seen your video I want to convert my build into E85!
@@saidsalgado7581 I didn't write it down unfortunately. I used the same process as the main jets and measured using a drill bit with a good fit and then went up in size accordingly.
I have a question for you since you have done this. I have essentially the same 22r blow through setup minus e85. I'm getting into the tuning stage with the Weber and I want to know how you open up the power circuit? I see you drilled and tapped that hole to access the ports, do you just drill those power circuit ports out until your numbers are good?
I did a couple laps around my block and I was at about 16:1 peak while boost was coming on. Normal cruise was sitting at about 12:1 and I don't want to go crazy drilling out my mains since its not that bad pre-boost now.
Yep, you nailed it. Gradually opened them up until it wouldn't go lean when boost kicked in. High RPM mixture can be tuned with the air jets.
@@ozarkgarage You are the man! Thank you for the reply!
Very helpful, did you seal the throttle body at all? Wouldn’t boost leak from there?
I'm not sure what you mean about sealing the throttle body. If you are referring to the throttle plate shafts in the carburetor body, no, I didn't seal those. They are a close enough machined fit (assuming your carb isn't worn out) to hold boost/vacuum.
@@ozarkgarage that’s what I meant, my carb looks fairly new so I should b alright. Thank you great video and advice, you deserve more subs and views
Thanks! Good luck with your build
u should use a audi/vw 1.8t such good little engines that aren't that costly
Interesting idea. I didn't realize adapters to Toyota transmissions were readily available.
Can anyone anwer my question....
I need to tubrocharge my fiat uno 45 car,carburetor engine.....how will be the fuel consumption on the car.....i need it to run on less fuel...🙁
Ok so if you had built and tuned it to run 98 instead of e85 would you still have blown it up?
It didn't blow up until I went back to 91 octane (tuned correctly). 98 octane wouldn't have solved anything because it's not available at the pump.
Ok so the timing was the reason you detonated it? Would the use of a small supercharger instead of a turbo make it easier to tune?
Hey man I hope you can solve me this question. If I install this exact setup but with intercooler my car would be reliable If I use regular fuel? In my country there's no such thing like premiun fuel or E85. I live in a hot city
I would also add some form of timing control like an MSD 8762
@@ozarkgarage thank you so much
Hi! Nice video, I'm building the same blow-through setup with a supercharger. I have gone through all the comments and you mentioned that the power valve is actually already boosted referenced in a blow-through setup, u drill it only to allow more flow and enrich AFR. Do you reckon I can get away with just switching the main jets to a bigger size to enrich the mixture? Also, I'm suffering from the car running lean under sudden throttle input, so when you suddenly floor it, the AFR leans all the way out of the range and the engine nearly dies. After seconds it will pick up and go well, or sometimes I have to let go of the throttle. The small throttle input seems fine, slowly press down the throttle to WOT, and it will run fine. Sorry for the long text, any advice would be a big help for me. Much appreciated!!
You may be able to go to go with large enough main jets, or smaller air bleeds. A supercharger has a linear boost curve, unlike a turbo. The lean condition on rapid throttle change is an issue with the accelerator pump or pump jet. Make sure yours is working properly first of all, the jet can get clogged and the diaphragm in the pump can get torn or filled with crud. There really aren't larger jets available, so if you need a larger one, you will have to drill yours out for more flow.
@@ozarkgarage ah thanks for replying man, yeh was suspecting about the accelerate pump too, but I can clearly see it squirts streams of fuel when I flap the throttle, so it shouldn't be clogged. Is the accelerate pump standalong or it is within the idle circuit and affected by the idle jets?
I'm also suspecting the idle jets being too small, resulting the progression circuit not picking up enough fuel when throttle being opened. Not sure if jeting up idle jets will as well enrich accelerate pump. But i'm already on 60 idle jets, the engine is just a 1.6L 4 banger. I doubt if I should still go up LOL
@@leonliu7086 how many turns out are your idle mixture screws? My 2.4L only needed 45 idle jets.
@@ozarkgarage yeh that's what i was confused about, I hardly see people using idle jets bigger than 60. I have the screw 3 turns out already, with 60 idle jets.
@@leonliu7086 cant help but think there is a vacuum leak
What was the compression ratio of the engine ?
Around 9.7 according to the internet. I never actually measured it.
You can conect they vacume to the distribuidor anda he Will took off timing
I did experiment with retarding the timing a few degrees, but the performance below the boost threshold really suffered.
Just curious, how was the throttle response with this setup?
Throttle response was good, minimal turbo lag due to the small volume of the turbo manifold and short intake pipe.
Hi can i put a 32/36 Weber on a honda civix 4th gen (ed3 1.5l 16v) d15b3 ? If yes, where should i buy the part needed ? Thanks
Look up Redline Weber. If they don't offer a kit, you will have to make your own.
How much bigger did u increase the size of the power valve Circuits?
I didn't write it down, unfortunately. I used the AFR/Boost curves on the laptop and gradually increased the size until it was where I wanted it. There is no good way to go smaller once you go too big.
Alright 👍
So did u put a hose from that part u cut out of the carb to the intake so as u build boost u are sending that psi to the power value?
No, the power valve gets a vacuum/boost signal elsewhere. The port I opened in the carb was just to allow me access to drill out the power valve fuel circuits. I plugged the port after I opened up the circuits.
@Ozark Garage ooh thank you I'm trying to boost a weber and this helps a lot
Cool, good luck!
Is a Honda K swap in your future?
My current thought is a complete 3SGE with a 6 speed, but who knows!?
What jets did you run as it would help ball park mine and could you do a more in depth video on the tuning and power valve?
I think the Weber came with 145 main and I ended up running 190 with the E85 (it has been a while). I can't remember what I drilled the power valve circuit out to. As for tuning, the wideband AFR gauge is the only way you can accurately tune it. I'm putting EFI on the car now, I'll have a video for how I road tune, it's the same method for EFI and carb.
Thank you. I’ve just got my wide band set up and just struggling to not have it lean out in boost
Double check to make sure your fuel pressure is rising with boost. If the boost is greater than the fuel pressure, the fuel level in the float bowl will drop or worse go dry.
To be sure I’ve ordered a new reg and pump. By chance do you still have that carb to check the power valve circuit?
@@Jake-px7xk Yes, I still have the carb, I'll pin gauge it and see what I ended up with on the power valve circuit.
How much did it run you?
I think I had around $500 in the whole setup. Gauges, fuel pump, regulator, lines etc. I made my own turbo manifold and plumbing which saves a ton.
Yea Yea L/S Swap it keep the Cheap Turbo it will be Plenty Fast
Hah, that would be nice, but an LS won't fit in the frame.
@ozarkgarage im sure a 13b would fit in it 👀
😮
Hey! Can l juse. Weber 34dmtr 21/200. 18890.062.on turbo ?
No idea, sorry. Maybe someone else can help?
I Have a 3236 weber on a l28 engine what jetting you use
Idle jets were stock 45, with the E85 I think I ended up with 190 on the main.
@@ozarkgarage well I running air primary 170 main 155 secondary air 175 main 160 gas finish very quickly plus burning a little white
@ozarkgarage I put a 170 secondary main didn't get much power
Honestly, my top recommendation would be to install an AFR gauge, even if its just temporary: th-cam.com/video/EeXsm-Qf62E/w-d-xo.html