Dude, you have a talent for not wasting time and filling half the runtime with umm, awkward pauses and stupid intros that are 30 seconds long. Very efficient at getting a ton of info across. Great video!
QUICKEST WAYS TO TURBOCHARGE YOUR CAR - 1. Switch to 91 octane or higher top-tier premium fuel, 2. Switch to iridium spark plugs - preferably Bosch, 3. Attach a "turbo" logo to the rear of your vehicle.
@@NightWrencher I’m going to get two 3582s and use my Holley pump with 8 lbs of boost and a 245@.050 .600 hyd roller cam and Holley SD with a super sucker and 750 DP, with iron FE manifolds reversed and 396 ci and hopefully about 525 NA hp 8 lbs of boost and 840 hp. That is the extent of my sense of humor. Lol
I'm going to make another video where I tear down my carb for you guys. It should answer most of your questions but if you have a specific question, I can try to answer it if its not too complicated
Thank you so much for your video and explaining things that some one like me understand! Sooo tired of trying to work with emc and all the sensors and crap with efi. I'm old school and live simple! Thank you so so much!!!!
@@leightonbazemore7491 the carb size is easy. Whatever is the best fit for the engine the way it is now, thats the same size youre going to run under boost. So if your carb size is a 600 then you keep the 600.
@@NightWrencher well to give you the rundown it's a 88 foxbody. Efi, 5.0, e cam, trickflow 190 heads, headers, got a vortech v3 supercharger putting out about 8 lbs on factory installed pulleys. im sick of computors and sensors. So I don't have a carb size picked for it. I talked to CSU. And 1400 is a steep jump. So I was thinking surly I can build one. But don't know where to start. It will be street driven and some small trips. It's 5 speed also.
I feel like now that I’ve moved to America I have so much to learn about carbs 😂 thank you for the info, I plan on doing a Barra build very soon with a carb and turbo because why not 😇
Definitely if you could show how to convert it. I have a good idea but I’d like to hear it from somebody that has successfully done it. I converted my Quick Fuel from gas to E85 and tuned it nicely. I really don’t wanna buy another carb also when I get my turbo setup
I'm planning on getting a '41 Oldsmobile, then doing an engine swap with a GM Vortec 4200 Inline 6, which is circa 2006-2009. Wonder if this can work on that engine, so I can keep the car purely mechanical?
I do not think this would be easily replicated on a 4200 because there is no carbureted intake manifold available for this engine and I am also unsure of what ignition module would be available for it since you would be eliminating the ECU.
Dual needle is for fuel flow. I havn't ran into a situation where 1 needle and seat is not large enough. Maybe when you get close to 1000bhp it starts to becomes an issue but for most street cars, its not an issue
@@NightWrencher Gotcha, I am thinking about 800-900 hp with two VS7875s at 10-12 lbs on a 397-416. I don’t want to break the block. The SOHC 427s can do 1500 happily, but this is a 3 rib D4TE block with good iron and I have 2 PSE Aluminum crossbolt main caps for 2 and 4 drilled for priority oiling, so it would be 1.2,4,5 priority feed. I think 800-900 rwhp is plenty.
That should be more than enough turbo for that. There are slightly smaller turbos that will get you there faster but you're looking at around $1500 for the pair vs $600 for the pair of ebay 78/75s
@@Bbbbad724 Theres too many factory, primarily exhaust back pressure. Most gt35 testing has been done on 5.3 and 6.0 engines which are much smaller than your engine so yours will end up producing more exhaust. Considering that there are 2 of them though, I'm sure it would be fine.
Awesome video. I’ve been trying to figure out how to control timing with a distributor. Planning on building a blow thru setup on a 85 gt with a edelbrock carb and victor Jr intake
For an 85 gt the easiest way would be to lock it out. The second way would be to lock it out and then use a TCS-1 to control it electronically if yours using a 6AL. The third way would be lock out the distributor and use a CD-1 to control it electronically if you dont have an existing ignition box. Lastly, you can unhook the vacuum advance and recurve your distributor so that it only advances 5 degrees through the mechanical advance.
Appreciate the info. There’s not a lot of helpful info I’ve found online yet. I still have stock ignition aside from msd distributor but plan on buying a 6al box so I can have a rev limiter and 2step. I like the idea of just locking timing out but I also want the car to be semi streetable cause it’ll definitely get driven to work
That will work. You'll be able to run a decent amount of timing under boost but you gotta be careful. Add 1 degree until it stops getting fast and then drop it by at least 2 just to play it safe.
I’ve been wanting to put a single turbo on my 77 TA that has a 68 400 from a gto but the fact it’s a carb engine has kept me from it. It would be so cool though
@@NightWrencher Ok I found you and subbed, I’ve been running nitrous for a long time, under carb plate, Holley elec fuel pump & regulator , pro comp billet distributor & MSD 6AL box, headers, a summit cam, 750 double pump , other bits here and there. Sounds like I’ve got a decent amount of what’s required so there’s incentive for me to get started
Its actually more common than you think but theyre usually custom built carbs used by professional racers so theyre not really interested in showing their secrets.
The carb would have to be able to be pressurized. For an engine like that, look into draw through turbos or try to swap in a Holley 2 barrel or a smaller holley 4 barrel
How much boost can you run with blowthrough without an intercooler? Im building a hot rod and i cant find a small enough intercooler that fits inside my grille
I have an aluminum fuel cell with a sump with two output -08 fittings. My pump is a Blue Holley. I would assume that I need two pumps so I can feed a like to each end of the carb, and the top of the cell has a return and a roll over valve. Do I need to add another return and regulator? Thank you! I want to used the FE iron exhaust manifolds to a pair of GT3582s at 9-10 lbs. Engine is at 9.5:1 CR. Thanks!
A Holley blue maxes out at 14psi of fuel. With 6psi of base pressure, the max boost that you'll be able to run is 8psi or .6 atmosphere aka 60% more power before the engine will begin to starve of fuel. doesn't matter if you're using 1 or 4 or 10 pumps. If the pumps can not support the max PSI, the engine will starve, regardless of fuel flow. With that being said, a single holley blue will get you to about 800whp. You can feed a second one into the same boost referenced regulator, like the Holley 12-865. That regulator has enough ports so that you don't have to run 2 regulators. 2 holley blue pumps are 220gph which is great if you're not trying to push more than 8lbs.
@@NightWrencher Thank you, . I am not going over 800-900 hp anyway. The Galaxie can’t hook up more than that, but it is built for that. Two 16 psi Pumps should be fine as 8-9 to be safe 800 at the wheels is a handful . I appreciate it!
I want to say,I've been searching for a couple days now for the information that you explained in just a few minutes. Great job. I have a question. Can I use a two barrel carb? It's a reproduction, looks like an old Carter. Made by Thundermingo. It's kinda a cheap one but I have it on my truck and it works well. I needed the info about the Timing, using the lock distributor. Once again good video.
How about 2 4V DPs or 2 500 Holley 2 Vs on a 2x4 FE that has the front 4 facing to the front and the rear 4 cylinders angled to the rear? It seems like fuel distribution would be better with two carbs? Thoughts?
I've played with that idea in my mind but 1) its not really necessary since a single carb can feed way more power underboost. 2) It wont work because both carbs needs to see not only the same air pressure but also the same air FLOW through the carb. If one carb is being hit by the air flow better than the other carb, that carb will tend to run richer and create more problems. Same situation if you were running 2 carbs with a twin turbo, if one turbo spins faster into its carb than the other, you'll have a similar issue. When even clocking the carb hat in a single carb set up a certain way can affect air direction or air flow, imagine what'll happen by splitting it up. I've seen it done, but never in a real performance application, only show cars. So far the best solution is either a single plane intake or a 1 inch spacer under the carb. The distribution is close enough that it wont hurt anything but I would still check your plugs
Highly interested. Would love to see what you’re doing with your power valve. If you’re running a power valve with e85, what are you doing with the pvcr’s. Thanks.
@nightwrencher do you have a video or diagram of creating a "boost box" for the carb? Not new to turbocharging I just cannot find clear instructions on how to create this. Is it literally just jetting up and putting the carb in a sealed box? This is for a small engine motorcycle
Yes, thats basically it. The hard part is getting it to seal because the fuel lines have to go through the box somehow. Its not a very efficent system but it does work
Appreciate that input, I don't see why you couldn't hook a signal line up to one of the bowl vents to allow venturi/vacuum and still pressurize the bowl when in boost. Haven't found any info confirming that approach though.
@CygnusHomes thats not possible because if the boosters see boost pressure, it will try to find the path of least resistance and then try to back flow back into the fuel bowls. Thats exactly why fuel pressure has to increase 1lb per psi of boost. But if you didnt also pressurize the bowls, the fuel and air would just shoot out of the vent instead
@@NightWrencher NW do you think if building a Ls like this blowthru carb.. when you keep your foot out.. could actually help MPG. Or will a turbo on carb - no matter what- kill mpg? Thinking of overlander build
Off boost, the engine will react exactly as it would without the turbo so low load/speed will not affect whatever mpg youre getting now. Hope it helps!
@ best way to explain it. I presumed that to be the case. Once boost hits mpg changes as well. Just trying to find a way to make extra power and either benefit mpg or not hinder its current state. Thank you
Depending on the cam, it could be the perfect carb but chances are that its a little too big but you'll be fine if thats what you have. My 5.3 325cid has run carbs from a 575 all the way to a 780. As long as the tune is right, it'll run and drive really well. Its not gonna blow up, don't worry.
@@timsimons8946 that could be anything from intake manifold design, head flow, cam size, etc. I recommend getting on a dyno as soon as youre able to so you can get a graph of your horsepower and torque. From there you'll be able to see exactly what to do. Going to a bigger carb wont hurt anything so youre good there
I should make a video on this but basically. A draw through set up acts like a big engine and needs a lot of carburetor to get it going. Air temps are higher too. On a blow through, the air is pressurized before going into the carb which means you can make more power with smaller carbs. It also drives better on the street and air temps are colder.
This video is a good resource if anyone is new to this sorta forbidden fruit 👌🏽 seriously I can confirm he’s all over it 💯 Now everyone let’s go smoke all the rich kids who shelled out for shop built engines they are scared to rev hahahahabhabbaba I love my351 Windsor with a gt45 china turbo rough as guts paddock build and 8 psi is a gearbox rebuild if your not behaving yourself hahaha But seriously an f350 crew cab loosing nothing on the street alongside them ls Holden owners and watching them all get upset is truly the most heart warming experience ever hahaha
Surprised so many people don’t understand a little more about how fuel line size works, I’ll be honest I don’t know hardly shiz about turbo carb specs. However I do know much more about turbo efi and I ain’t ever heard anyone say try explaining how return lines need/should be larger that the feed it’s really it’s always the opposite since the engine uses fuel rather that moving it or making it..
Its only exclusive to carbed applications. The more powerful the fuel pump, the bigger the return line has to be in order to bypass enough fuel to keep the fuel pressure down. Not the case for EFI
#NightWrencher #NoticeMyComment #CanYouGiveMeSomeAdvise can i use a blow through carb design on a 1.5L 4 cylinder engine? I how you read this so you can advise me. Thanks
I'll tell you what I tell everyone, if you're not running at LEAST 10psi, its not worth it to go turbo. If you have a good working NA motor with headers and freeflowing exhaust, you're going to lose power by simply installing the turbo. On my Charger at 5psi with an optimized tune, the engine only gained 30 horsepower to the rear wheels over my optimized NA setup. 30 horsepower for $2000 is not a good trade.
New blow through carburetor build series is out! Check out part one here: th-cam.com/video/p88OHXFnVC4/w-d-xo.html
Dude, you have a talent for not wasting time and filling half the runtime with umm, awkward pauses and stupid intros that are 30 seconds long. Very efficient at getting a ton of info across. Great video!
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it man!
@@NightWrencher I agree! That was speaking my language. It great to get a mental picture that keeps the conversation moving. Thank you!
I'm not that a guy that leaves comment, or like but this video is very well put video!! I love the way you explain it. Made it very clear!!
Thanks man! I really appreciate it!
Blow through carb setups are the coolest! Currently doing this to an old Volvo we found in the woods.
Very cool! I hope it works out!
QUICKEST WAYS TO TURBOCHARGE YOUR CAR - 1. Switch to 91 octane or higher top-tier premium fuel, 2. Switch to iridium spark plugs - preferably Bosch, 3. Attach a "turbo" logo to the rear of your vehicle.
*Crickets*
And then get passed up by some dude with a turbo
Everybody making jokes 😂
@@NightWrencher yeah but are any of them funny. I'm guessing barely
@@NightWrencher I’m going to get two 3582s and use my Holley pump with 8 lbs of boost and a 245@.050 .600 hyd roller cam and Holley SD with a super sucker and 750 DP, with iron FE manifolds reversed and 396 ci and hopefully about 525 NA hp 8 lbs of boost and 840 hp. That is the extent of my sense of humor. Lol
I love it. I've thinking for a day or so, what it might take. Then I searched and I found. Thanks for the content.
For HEI Progression Ignition makes a distributor where the timing can be programmed with your phone for boost and other thing's.
Thats interesting, I hadnt seen that!
If you guys want to see what I have done to convert my carb for the turbo or have any questions, let me know in the comments!
I have a lot of questions about blow-thur and turbo
I'm going to make another video where I tear down my carb for you guys. It should answer most of your questions but if you have a specific question, I can try to answer it if its not too complicated
Where’s the carb break down video?? I want to turbo my 260z Datsun with a 4 bbl
I havnt made it yet, need to pull off the carb and take it apart to show it all on video
Would like to see that
Thank you so much for your video and explaining things that some one like me understand! Sooo tired of trying to work with emc and all the sensors and crap with efi. I'm old school and live simple! Thank you so so much!!!!
You're welcome and I appreciate it!
I'm ordering fuel line and the regulator today. I'll prob need help as I progress. Like carb size and such with a vortech v3 supercharger.
@@leightonbazemore7491 the carb size is easy. Whatever is the best fit for the engine the way it is now, thats the same size youre going to run under boost. So if your carb size is a 600 then you keep the 600.
@@NightWrencher well to give you the rundown it's a 88 foxbody. Efi, 5.0, e cam, trickflow 190 heads, headers, got a vortech v3 supercharger putting out about 8 lbs on factory installed pulleys. im sick of computors and sensors. So I don't have a carb size picked for it. I talked to CSU. And 1400 is a steep jump. So I was thinking surly I can build one. But don't know where to start. It will be street driven and some small trips. It's 5 speed also.
@@leightonbazemore7491 have you seen my blow through carb build series?
Lots of questions answered and very helpful video.
I'll definitely go draw through 😂
Thanks for the video , by FAR the best and most informative video iv watched for setting up and tuning carbs for supercharger or turbo set up.
I really appreciate it man!
I feel like now that I’ve moved to America I have so much to learn about carbs 😂 thank you for the info, I plan on doing a Barra build very soon with a carb and turbo because why not 😇
That will be sweet! Let me know how it goes!
@@NightWrencher will do mate 💪🏼
Definitely if you could show how to convert it. I have a good idea but I’d like to hear it from somebody that has successfully done it. I converted my Quick Fuel from gas to E85 and tuned it nicely. I really don’t wanna buy another carb also when I get my turbo setup
That video is coming out very soon 👍
I'm planning on getting a '41 Oldsmobile, then doing an engine swap with a GM Vortec 4200 Inline 6, which is circa 2006-2009. Wonder if this can work on that engine, so I can keep the car purely mechanical?
I do not think this would be easily replicated on a 4200 because there is no carbureted intake manifold available for this engine and I am also unsure of what ignition module would be available for it since you would be eliminating the ECU.
Do you set your float bowl level at bottom or middle of the sight hole?
Depends on what I'm doing with the car, but usually at the middle. If its a glass sight plug and just until it barely pours out if its a brass plug.
What do you do about the needle and seat and the vents? Do you have 2 needle and seats per bowl?
Dual needle is for fuel flow. I havn't ran into a situation where 1 needle and seat is not large enough. Maybe when you get close to 1000bhp it starts to becomes an issue but for most street cars, its not an issue
@@NightWrencher Gotcha, I am thinking about 800-900 hp with two VS7875s at 10-12 lbs on a 397-416. I don’t want to break the block. The SOHC 427s can do 1500 happily, but this is a 3 rib D4TE block with good iron and I have 2 PSE Aluminum crossbolt main caps for 2 and 4 drilled for priority oiling, so it would be 1.2,4,5 priority feed. I think 800-900 rwhp is plenty.
That should be more than enough turbo for that. There are slightly smaller turbos that will get you there faster but you're looking at around $1500 for the pair vs $600 for the pair of ebay 78/75s
@@NightWrencher I ve considered a pair of GT3582s with the stock plank manifolds reversed, will that maintain a rising boost curve at 825 or so?
@@Bbbbad724 Theres too many factory, primarily exhaust back pressure. Most gt35 testing has been done on 5.3 and 6.0 engines which are much smaller than your engine so yours will end up producing more exhaust. Considering that there are 2 of them though, I'm sure it would be fine.
Awesome video. I’ve been trying to figure out how to control timing with a distributor. Planning on building a blow thru setup on a 85 gt with a edelbrock carb and victor Jr intake
For an 85 gt the easiest way would be to lock it out. The second way would be to lock it out and then use a TCS-1 to control it electronically if yours using a 6AL. The third way would be lock out the distributor and use a CD-1 to control it electronically if you dont have an existing ignition box. Lastly, you can unhook the vacuum advance and recurve your distributor so that it only advances 5 degrees through the mechanical advance.
Appreciate the info. There’s not a lot of helpful info I’ve found online yet. I still have stock ignition aside from msd distributor but plan on buying a 6al box so I can have a rev limiter and 2step. I like the idea of just locking timing out but I also want the car to be semi streetable cause it’ll definitely get driven to work
I don’t plan on running it on very high boost. Probably no more than 10 psi. It’ll be a very mild build just want a fun strip/street car
That will work. You'll be able to run a decent amount of timing under boost but you gotta be careful. Add 1 degree until it stops getting fast and then drop it by at least 2 just to play it safe.
How much fuel pressure would I need for 10 pounds of boost
16psi minimum at full boost. 6 psi at idle.
I'm interested in carb mods thank you.
Video coming out soon 👍
Good info and all info is welcome 👍👍
Thank you! I'll try to get that video out soon!
I’ve been wanting to put a single turbo on my 77 TA that has a 68 400 from a gto but the fact it’s a carb engine has kept me from it. It would be so cool though
Check out my videos on @nightwrencherperformance to see the build of turbo charging my dodge charger
@@NightWrencher Ok I found you and subbed, I’ve been running nitrous for a long time, under carb plate, Holley elec fuel pump & regulator , pro comp billet distributor & MSD 6AL box, headers, a summit cam, 750 double pump , other bits here and there. Sounds like I’ve got a decent amount of what’s required so there’s incentive for me to get started
@@stephen_crumley As long as the regulator can be boost refferenced, I'd say you're on the right track!
I have a 87’ Dodge D150 my dad bought brand new in 87’ with the
Little 318 small block mopar.
What could I do with it
I guess the real question is what do you WANT to do with it! lol
Looking to do this but with a 4500 style dominator. Surprisingly it seems no one has blown thru a dominator carb yet, I can't find anything on it
Its actually more common than you think but theyre usually custom built carbs used by professional racers so theyre not really interested in showing their secrets.
I'm trying to figure out an 84 yota 22r. Not sure what mods the factory ASIN carb would need if even possible.
The carb would have to be able to be pressurized. For an engine like that, look into draw through turbos or try to swap in a Holley 2 barrel or a smaller holley 4 barrel
How much boost can you run with blowthrough without an intercooler? Im building a hot rod and i cant find a small enough intercooler that fits inside my grille
You can make quite a bit of power without an inner cooler as long as your tune is good
I have an aluminum fuel cell with a sump with two output -08 fittings. My pump is a Blue Holley. I would assume that I need two pumps so I can feed a like to each end of the carb, and the top of the cell has a return and a roll over valve. Do I need to add another return and regulator? Thank you! I want to used the FE iron exhaust manifolds to a pair of GT3582s at 9-10 lbs. Engine is at 9.5:1 CR. Thanks!
A Holley blue maxes out at 14psi of fuel. With 6psi of base pressure, the max boost that you'll be able to run is 8psi or .6 atmosphere aka 60% more power before the engine will begin to starve of fuel. doesn't matter if you're using 1 or 4 or 10 pumps. If the pumps can not support the max PSI, the engine will starve, regardless of fuel flow. With that being said, a single holley blue will get you to about 800whp. You can feed a second one into the same boost referenced regulator, like the Holley 12-865. That regulator has enough ports so that you don't have to run 2 regulators. 2 holley blue pumps are 220gph which is great if you're not trying to push more than 8lbs.
@@NightWrencher Thank you, . I am not going over 800-900 hp anyway. The Galaxie can’t hook up more than that, but it is built for that. Two 16 psi Pumps should be fine as 8-9 to be safe 800 at the wheels is a handful . I appreciate it!
I want to say,I've been searching for a couple days now for the information that you explained in just a few minutes. Great job. I have a question. Can I use a two barrel carb? It's a reproduction, looks like an old Carter. Made by Thundermingo. It's kinda a cheap one but I have it on my truck and it works well. I needed the info about the Timing, using the lock distributor. Once again good video.
A 2 barrel will work fine if the fuel bowl can be pressurized through the bowl vent under boost such as the Holley 2300.
How about 2 4V DPs or 2 500 Holley 2 Vs on a 2x4 FE that has the front 4 facing to the front and the rear 4 cylinders angled to the rear? It seems like fuel distribution would be better with two carbs? Thoughts?
I've played with that idea in my mind but 1) its not really necessary since a single carb can feed way more power underboost. 2) It wont work because both carbs needs to see not only the same air pressure but also the same air FLOW through the carb. If one carb is being hit by the air flow better than the other carb, that carb will tend to run richer and create more problems. Same situation if you were running 2 carbs with a twin turbo, if one turbo spins faster into its carb than the other, you'll have a similar issue. When even clocking the carb hat in a single carb set up a certain way can affect air direction or air flow, imagine what'll happen by splitting it up. I've seen it done, but never in a real performance application, only show cars. So far the best solution is either a single plane intake or a 1 inch spacer under the carb. The distribution is close enough that it wont hurt anything but I would still check your plugs
@@NightWrencher Thanks I see what you mean, it has to be in a state of equilibrium to work right. Thanks, I hadn’t thought about that.
Que paso con el way de la nova😅
Le dio miedo 😂
CSU Carb 👍👍
CSU makes really good carbs 👍 I build my own but a CSU is worth the money IMO
I had a CSU Blow thru 750 on my 5.3, that carb had excellent street n track manners.
Highly interested. Would love to see what you’re doing with your power valve. If you’re running a power valve with e85, what are you doing with the pvcr’s. Thanks.
The PV circuit is a huge part of it. Its not just replace the PV with a different one, theres quite a few things you need to do to get it dialed in.
Great stuff very comprehensive 👍🏻
Thank you! Appreciate it!
What are the extensions? What do they look like
@nightwrencher do you have a video or diagram of creating a "boost box" for the carb? Not new to turbocharging I just cannot find clear instructions on how to create this. Is it literally just jetting up and putting the carb in a sealed box? This is for a small engine motorcycle
Yes, thats basically it. The hard part is getting it to seal because the fuel lines have to go through the box somehow. Its not a very efficent system but it does work
Appreciate that input, I don't see why you couldn't hook a signal line up to one of the bowl vents to allow venturi/vacuum and still pressurize the bowl when in boost. Haven't found any info confirming that approach though.
@CygnusHomes thats not possible because if the boosters see boost pressure, it will try to find the path of least resistance and then try to back flow back into the fuel bowls. Thats exactly why fuel pressure has to increase 1lb per psi of boost. But if you didnt also pressurize the bowls, the fuel and air would just shoot out of the vent instead
So what fuel pump do u have
I used a stock silverado fuel pump with a fuel max booster
I was confused before this video now I'm just going fuel injection with a holley setup ...
😂 I don't blame you
@@NightWrencher NW do you think if building a Ls like this blowthru carb.. when you keep your foot out.. could actually help MPG. Or will a turbo on carb - no matter what- kill mpg?
Thinking of overlander build
Off boost, the engine will react exactly as it would without the turbo so low load/speed will not affect whatever mpg youre getting now. Hope it helps!
@ best way to explain it. I presumed that to be the case. Once boost hits mpg changes as well. Just trying to find a way to make extra power and either benefit mpg or not hinder its current state. Thank you
What about the power valve?
I'm going to go over that in another video because its a little complicated. You dont use a regular PV and the secondary circuit has to come in sooner
"All of it" one day, but not today. 😂
👍💪
Get on it!
What did it cost just for all your extra turbo parts, carb, and that necessary stuff?
Im going to make a whole video about that and break it down 👍
331 stroker with a 650 holley. Is this set up possible? Not trying to blow engine but be nice to have a little extra. lol
Depending on the cam, it could be the perfect carb but chances are that its a little too big but you'll be fine if thats what you have. My 5.3 325cid has run carbs from a 575 all the way to a 780. As long as the tune is right, it'll run and drive really well. Its not gonna blow up, don't worry.
Gt40 heads , x cam
Runs really good but needs more top end.
@@timsimons8946 that could be anything from intake manifold design, head flow, cam size, etc. I recommend getting on a dyno as soon as youre able to so you can get a graph of your horsepower and torque. From there you'll be able to see exactly what to do. Going to a bigger carb wont hurt anything so youre good there
Nice vid. How fast did yer truck go?
I havnt hit the track yet with my refined set up but I'm shooting for 95mph in the 1/8 for now
@@NightWrencher right on
So sick!! What did the power make on the engine?
Thanks man! On low boost It made just over 400 wheel. Right now I'm over 500 wheel.
@@NightWrencher 👀
What why not just use a draw through design what's the disadvantage of draw through carburetor ❓🚩 does draw through make less power ❓
I should make a video on this but basically. A draw through set up acts like a big engine and needs a lot of carburetor to get it going. Air temps are higher too. On a blow through, the air is pressurized before going into the carb which means you can make more power with smaller carbs. It also drives better on the street and air temps are colder.
This video is a good resource if anyone is new to this sorta forbidden fruit 👌🏽 seriously I can confirm he’s all over it 💯
Now everyone let’s go smoke all the rich kids who shelled out for shop built engines they are scared to rev hahahahabhabbaba
I love my351 Windsor with a gt45 china turbo rough as guts paddock build and 8 psi is a gearbox rebuild if your not behaving yourself hahaha
But seriously an f350 crew cab loosing nothing on the street alongside them ls Holden owners and watching them all get upset is truly the most heart warming experience ever hahaha
Surprised so many people don’t understand a little more about how fuel line size works, I’ll be honest I don’t know hardly shiz about turbo carb specs. However I do know much more about turbo efi and I ain’t ever heard anyone say try explaining how return lines need/should be larger that the feed it’s really it’s always the opposite since the engine uses fuel rather that moving it or making it..
Its only exclusive to carbed applications. The more powerful the fuel pump, the bigger the return line has to be in order to bypass enough fuel to keep the fuel pressure down. Not the case for EFI
20 lbs I’m not doing that bro. I just wanna ride. Like you say bro I didn’t know this before today.
#NightWrencher
#NoticeMyComment
#CanYouGiveMeSomeAdvise
can i use a blow through carb design on a 1.5L 4 cylinder engine? I how you read this so you can advise me. Thanks
4150 questions whats necessary for a small boost setup...not looking to take over just improve
I'll tell you what I tell everyone, if you're not running at LEAST 10psi, its not worth it to go turbo. If you have a good working NA motor with headers and freeflowing exhaust, you're going to lose power by simply installing the turbo. On my Charger at 5psi with an optimized tune, the engine only gained 30 horsepower to the rear wheels over my optimized NA setup. 30 horsepower for $2000 is not a good trade.
At "3:30".... I cannot be the only one concerned with boosted fast engines... and old shitshow rag joint steering components... right?
Yeah, no. It has a borgeson joint. Rag joint eliminated
@@NightWrencher whew!!!!
👀
Spying on my set up 🧐
@@NightWrencher gotta see what I'm going to beat
You sound a lot like rich rebuilds 😭😭😭🙏
I'll take that as a compliment 😂
@@NightWrencher it is I love your content now 😭