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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2022
- The color White can cause a whole mess of problems with your 3D printer. Lets go over a couple reasons why.
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Video Sources:
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HOW MUCH Abrasive Filaments Damage Your Nozzle!
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This Man Protects the World's Rarest Colors
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Colorants are one of the most taken for granted technologies we have. This was so interesting to learn.
I honestly thought I was going crazy! I have found that white wore down my nozzles more than even [a really rough] glow-in-the-dark or marble filament does and thought that it might have just been a bad batch of nozzles. In my head, white was just the most basic of colours so there was no way it was the filament. Thank you for shedding some light on this! It is amazing how different colours really have such a different impact -- like how orange is impossible to purge to the point of not staining even black prints for a while.
When I change out my red filament with something else, I always get some residual red streaks in my next print, but it's that only filament that does that. I think it's the pigments they use in some filaments.
@@rich1051414 I agree. Red takes so long to purge. If I switch from red to something else I have to purge 3 times more to get it all out.
@@CraftySven I use nozzle cleaning filament that comes free with Ziro filament, you also get a sealable Mylar bag, a sample of their more exotic filament, and a card to write the printing notes on, the Ziro filament is also awesome quality and has the best windings I have ever seen, its also a good price, not expensive but not cheap either.
@@AndrewAHayes ok ziro salesman
@@AndrewAHayes irrelevant, it costs 2-3 times as much as normal filament
My best friend studied exactly this when we worked for BHP and they had some titanium mines so I knew exactly where this was going. I worked on a process that would refine it to the stage where it could be used this way. High pressure plus heat plus very acidic on top the how hard it is to pump. Oh boy it was “fun”
And that is why I use a tungsten carbide nozzle on ever single printer. It has a nearly identical heat profile as brass, but man of man is it tough. I have been printing loads of glass filled and carbon fiber filled and it has shown 0 degradation or issues of any kind.
Same here. Switched to tungsten carbide and so far it has really held up to whatever I put through it. Best $80 I ever spent.
I'm new to 3d printing is a tungsten nozzle a direct swap or is it more involved? I have a sovol sv01 pro and would like to have it last as long as possible
@@Armor3dprinting As long as that takes the M6 thread nozzles then yes. I got mine from Dyze design.
I'm using a tungsten metal one and it's similarly had zero wear. Amazing thermals
@@Titan3DAZ awesome thanks
An additional bit of info is that, for this reason, white inter layer adhesion, is not as good as other "colours". It's also more difficult to make a pure white compared to any other colour depending on the polymer.
True
I just spent $500 trying to find the brightest white FDM filament. Now I have to rethink my whole thought process. Learn something new everyday :)
CNC Kitchen just made a video "Filament COLOR matters!"
In the layer adhesion test, white was second best in his selection of colors.
It also did quite well in the other tests.
I suspect the larger pigment size improves mechanical properties.
Almost like a CF filament.
@@5Lax fyi I find overture has the deepest/best whites by far, not sure why.
I have always hated printing white filament. As soon as I saw this video, I knew that it was a hard material that was used to dye PLA. I forgot it was titanium, but I never put two and two together until I saw this video. Nice job.
Nitpick: It's not titanium. As in, it's not titanium the metal or any titanium alloy, it's titanium dioxide, which is a very different thing. Think of it like the difference between silicon, a shiny semiconductor, and silicon dioxide, which is sand (well, more specifically it's quartz sand, and sand in nature is mixed with other stuff, but mostly it is silicon dioxide).
Weird that I haven't really had any issues and I print probably most of my print in white, with brass nozzle, but definitely good to know this if I even encounter any!
I’m just a hobbiest; but white is my favorite color for 3D printing and is mostly all I use. I went through about 7 rolls of white PLA last year with no noticeable problems.
well that's good news, I've only started my self, enjoying it so far. im using the esun filament , biodegradable plastic,
So eventually I'm not crazy that all my white prints are going worse and worse, I never thought about it as filament problem, wow, thanks you for this explanation, now my frustration has sense...
Hapy to help
Spending a little more on a tungsten or hardened steel nozzle is worth it. Just run a hardened nozzle all the time--don't waste your time on brass. Fewer nozzle changes is only a good thing, in the event you want to print white, glow in the dark, wood/metal-filled, etc.
I’ve got to switch to white today or tomorrow on a new printer. I printed up a batch of about 20 parts on my other unit and it was a bear, quickly. Thankfully I’ve got a spare nozzlle for the new printer so I can switch back to it when changing back to the black I’m using. I agree wholeheartedly with you. I’ve had this on my mind for awhile. Considering the cost of nozzles, and hardened steel isn’t that expensive, I’ve asked myself for some time, why continue using brass considering all the filament types that destroy it?
Eye opening! Thanks for keeping the video informative and short. Perfect!
Maybe the "pasty" flow dynamics explain why one of my white PLA barely sticks to the print plate. The black filament from the same manufacturer worked flawlessly.
3 years of printing primarily white filaments I’ve never needed to replace a nozzle.
I was making a lot of white drawer inserts. This video seems to point out the problems I had that I didn't have with other filament colours. I was getting poor prints, chalky, and the nozzle had to keep being replaced along with the brass gears that push the filament through the Bowden tube. Ended up putting a steel gear on it. Ended up using other colours as the white kept having failed prints.
Also why you will have more problems with bed adhesion with white and glow in the dark filament. Kind of the same effect as flour in dough. I almost always use glue stick when I'm printing any of the matt finished filaments. Thanks for the reminder that I should probably order some new nozzles since I've been been printing a lot of white.
Thank you so much. I was having huge problems printing white filament.
Thats why i use tungsten for all my nozzles. I haven't touched the toolhead in like 6 months
Tungsten carbide (WC) FTW! Unfortunately, I only know of 3 makers of WC nozzles. Dyze Design makes one that is hardened steel with a WC insert tip. 3D Maker Engineering and Spool 3D both have single piece WC nozzles. (I use a Spool 3D nozzle and have no complaints. Remember, they are Canadian so the price on their website is in Canadian Dollars.) I've printed glow in the dark, carbon fiber, and metal filled filaments (PLAs and PETGs) and my nozzle is as good today as it was when I got it in the mail. I have no personal experience with either Dyze or 3DME.
@@Sembazuru Phaetus nozzles?
@@warmesuppe Thank you. I was unaware of the Phaetus WC nozzle. Now my awareness of WC nozzles is up to 4 manufacturers.
thank you for this info, I print mostly in white and you figured out why sometimes I have problems, thanks!
Weird... This totally makes sense, but just yesterday I was thinking "that white Polyterra prints much better than their charcoal black" ..
Awesome video! Happy to be subscribed! Thanks. 🙌🏼🤙🏼✌🏼❤️
Awesome! Thank you!
Very helpful explanation of the issues with white filament.
I wish I knew this info last year. I was wondering why my printer just was having SO many problems. Thank you for all this information.
Glad it was helpful!
Titanium dioxide is used in toothpaste for colour BTW. Not sure if it's the actual abrasive though. Good info in the video. I love printing in white, but will now have to factor in the additional wear when choosing to use it.
Nicely done! will definitely be referencing this video
Glad it was helpful!
This is why my white filament prints were coming out gloopy and not adhering to the build plate like the other filaments. Recently bought hardened steel nozzles.
Awesome video 🏆
I am glad you said this as I have noticed the same but was unsure about. Thanks a lot
Happy to help
thanks for the video, i didnt know this fact about 3d printing but i came across white injection moulded plastic (it was PA6 or PP, not sure) wich wasnt as durable for mechanical stresses compared to black parts. white plastics dont bond together that good compared to other colored particles. at least thats my experience. thanks for the video again, you gained a new follower here!
This was great information! This is something that would never have crossed my mind.
I am blown away! Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for that explanation! I've wondered why white filament just doesn't print as nice as other colors.
Wow, good to know about, I never would have thought to be wary of white filament. Thanks!
Glad to help
Very interesting info! I knew about TiO2 but didn't know that it damages nozzles so much. What "color" is less damaging? Except transparent, of course
I have noticed when people deal with Blobs of Death™ on their printers, it is almost always white filament that has broken free and engulfed the hotend. This is not always the case, but it seems that white filament seems to do this more than other colors. Being made from titanium dioxide, this makes sense.
Thank you so much for the great info
Good to know, i didn't had that much issues when printing but i noticed i have to replace the nozzle, could be because of the white filament (i often change from a color to an other so i can't be sure)
I'll avoid white when i can
Very well put and great analogies!
Glad you enjoyed it
Subscribed to your channel.
Well, Great Info! Never knew that. Thanks for sharing this. Titanium is really a hard metal. But I have printed lots of things in white, esp. about 50-60 3d scanned statues of friends and family, most of the parts (large 24 inch gear, and another 10" gear) of my DIY 12" ONSTEP Dobsonian telescope, and many other models (4-5 white reels) since 2016 on my Tronxy P802MA with a brass nozzle, and have replaced my nozzle just once due to the odd filament (Marble PETG) that clogged my nozzle badly. Actually it was my mistake of not using the recommended larger nozzle. I also use space grey and black, apart from few other colors.
i always wondered why my white prints always looked crappy compared to most other colors thx
White PLA caused me to do a few things.
One: hate white PLA
Two: Unreasonably tune the 3D printer to get bed adhesion (but thats awesome now on other filaments)
Three: Buy and appreciate semi transparent and transparent PLA/PETG.
This is interesting to hear, because my subjective experience has been exactly the opposite. I haven't been printing for very long, and I only use one brand of filament, but I've found that my black filaments consistently give me headaches - that's been true for PLA, "matte" PLA, PETG, and ABS so far. I haven't noticed my whites behaving any differently than the other main color I use, which is a mint green. But every time I have to print a part in black I dread the experience and put it off for as long as possible. I even made a separate printer profile for one of my black filaments because it behaves so differently than the white and mint green of the same material.
My experience too! Printing for 3-4 years now , I use PLA exclusively and find white produces much cleaner prints than black. Nozzle wear has not been a problem either!
I don't think I heard him mention but are there any other substances that are used to make white? I am thinking that manufacturers must be aware of this is issue too.
So after some more experience I've settled on a few observations:
1) Hatchbox makes exceptionally clean-printing white filament. I'm not sure how they do it, but I suspect they just use less dye - their ABS white is noticeably more egg-shell-colored than their PETG or PLA white.
2) I had some bad early experiences with black PETG and black "Matte PLA". But I'm pretty sure these are just terrible materials in general - and my black PETG roll may have arrived already water-logged.
3) My white filaments _do_ seem to print thicker and gloopier than my black. So if I calibrate for the white, I tend to have some issues with the black under-extruding or having a too-high first layer. But if I calibrate for the black, _all_ of my filaments print a bit nicer in general, and the black prints exceptionally well.
Thought this was going to be clickbait but no, anyone who has printed with white immediately notices the finish looks "off" with white, and if you print long enough the wear makes total sense.
Cool, concise, and applicable video to a question I didn't even know I needed to ask, thanks man!
Great. All I’ve used since getting my Ender 5 Plus is white filament. Makes sense, I came into this video like yeah right, but I stand corrected. Thanks for this.
That's really interesting. I don't have to print with white, so I now know to avoid it.
This is newto me. Cool! Thank you!!
You're welcome
Fascinating! Had no idea.
Excellent! Thank you
I thought I was loosing my mind I noticed a clear difference and I did absolutely nothing different to have the quality drop 20-30%
Completely agree.I have been making lithophanes and have been getting stringing on travel moves no matter what I do.Material is precisely calibrated and since I do not have any infill to comb through I can't get rid of the strings.
Hi Carlos. I’m getting ready to attempt a few lithopanes. I’ve never sliced/printed any. Other than what we got here, aka for white filament, are there any other tips you’d offer for setup/slicing that produce a good lithopane?
@@TheJacklwilliams I mainly use a max lithophane width of 2.4mm.Make sure your picture is walls only no infill.Add walls as needed.If it is a tall model(150mm) or more,consider making an arc lithophane It is way more stable than flat and just works better.There is a lithophane calibration print in Cura that helps to dial in the filament.Let me know if I can help some more ok.good luck
@@carlosrosario9237 Thanks so much Carlos. I saved your comment as a note so I have somewhere to start. I've got a lot of printing to do ahead of me to finish Christmas projects however, I'm going to attempt my first lithopane somewhere here soon. THANKS AGAIN!
Thank you! I've been having clogging and under extrusion issues with just that... white pla. The other colors work fine with my Wanhao Duplicator i3 modded with all metal hotend.
Thanks, Now I know why my extruder gear wore out so quickly when my printer was new. (My first roll of filament was white)
This is great info thanks! I went through 100kg of White for an order once, what a frustration...... This is great to know, makes me feel less crazy haha.
Hmmm, small world, titanium dioxide is used in the mineral (good) sunscreen, the stuff that stays white on your skin.
It is a very commonly used colorant
This explains so much. I've been going through nozzles like crazy and wondering why they keep going bad so quickly... well, I've been printing only white PETG for my production runs, while in the prototyping stage I used transparent filament from the same manufacturer and hardly ever had to change the nozzle. :o
I guess I'll need to start printing production runs with transparent filament as well and then spray paint then white afterwards or something.
Or just get a hardened nozzle.
Or get a hard nozzle, like tungsten carbide or diamond. Hardened steel nozzles work too, but you may have to tweak your temperature profiles for your prints with a hardened steel nozzle. If you're doing production work for money it's a no brainer to get high quality hardened nozzles. They don't wear out.
I just spent a whole day going over my whole printer. I switched to my first spool of dove white pla this weekend and my prints started failing. The extruder started skipping and would print some parts of the print but not others. I cleaned everything popped in a new nozzle and same problem. So then I uped the temperature to 220 and boom! It stopped skipping and was printing as usual. Seems 200 was to low for the white and the skipping was caused by the extruder feeding but the filiment not melting fast enough! Atleast my whole printer has been serviced lol.
started this hobby in June, and allready had to replace the nozzle after 2 rolls of filament. (the first one was white and the second purple)
this explains a lot.. I thought the flaw was the purple roll wich had a heating temp of 200 - 230 instead of 190 - 230.
And I last month I bought extra white and grey...
Easy fix, buy a hardened nozzle and never worry about wearing it out no matter the filament you print.
mmm i did not know this, and will keep this in mind for the future
Thanks for watching
It is true that TiO2 is hard and abrasive, but that is unrelated to titanium metal being a strong material. Compounds do not inherit the properties from the elements in them. E.g.: Rust (iron oxide) is very weak and flakes off surfaces.
Yeah. Once you start printing using white for business. You'll notice it rather quickly, Harden nozzles and Tungsten nozzles are your new best friend.
I bought a 3D printer when The Coughing started. Put it up after 1month because it wouldn't "do right", in my novice opinion. This vid was the answer to my problem.
I learned what was what with the white filament. Then switched to color when the nozzle was out of tolerance, apparently
I see the corporate meeting having this part in it:
Accountant: Naw, that's too much $$$ per unit
Engineer: We can give a roll of white with each purchase
Accountant: That's economically unfeasible
Engineer: White has Titamium Dioxide inside. It'll ruin the nozzles and they'll have to buy more.
Accountant *to Executive*: Give that engineer a raise.
I knew it but I still love White Filament 😭
I really noticed this phenomenon with one particular brand of filament that must have had large crystals because it was shimmery after printing and was extremely hard to print with due to it not flowing properly, had to go super slow... I made sure to give it an appropriate Amazon review, but most other white filament has been ok, but makes sense why cheaper stuff would be worse, not processing the particle size small enough would save money.
Well I just started a 15 hour print with white pla and than I came across this video 3 hours later lol.
Thank you, my 3d printer had been spilling and I need to replace the nozzle regularly (3 times already without even finishing a single print). Didn't occur to me the reason was because I'm using white filament.
honestly just get a tungsten carbide nozzle and never worry about wear again
best part of it is you can literally blowtorch it clean if its ever clogged beyond what a cold pull can fix
Good to know, thanks
It would have been good to see this video before I started a 7h print in white PLA.
A possible upside is that titanium dioxide used in white filaments would make it UV resistant. It's used in sunscreens. One thing we should investigate is which colours block UV rays. I use black PLA on my bike, and even after two years, it feels as durable.
Even indoors, UV exposure may be more common than you think, so it may be relevant when you're designing for longevity, such as a cellphone holder in your car. UV rays pass through glass windows, and fluorescent lamps emit it.
Love that there's a white ghost just behind him the whole video lol
I think optics play a big role too, since white material highlight minor fabrication defects, especially 3D printed parts, the layers get more visible.
I have run over 100 spools of white through a hardened nozzle, and it showed no wear, so if you ever HAVE to run white, get a hardened nozzle.
You also have to run ~5 degrees hotter, and change your retraction to reduce stringing.
My question would be. What would be some of the better colors to get to get then. I know you said black but what are some others. Thank you so much for thai info it helps so much with some of the problems I have bin having.
In my opinion that’s something you need to dig into. Consider the base information given here. Every colorant/pigment in plastics, paints, etc… is made up of different compounds or single elements to get the color the finished product puts out. Given that, you’ll find signicantly different performance characteristics based on the colorants hardness, particle size, etc…. I worked in injection and blow molding years back. Setting molds, setting up the presses/extruders, etc… I can tell you that I learned then that a color change was a big deal and it was often frustrating to get a part dialed in after changing color. This would be with the same mold and press, same setup. Often you had to change temps/pressures, etc… to account for the change in flow characteristics. Anyway, my advice is, if you are choosing a color for a particular part, do the investigation, find out what it’s made up of and what the flow characteristics are prior to committing to the color/material.
@Slant 3D, what about clear PLA+ from Esun? Does clear have toxic titanium in it?
Watch any Bob Ross painting show and he'll mention the color of the oil paints he's using. Cobalt blue or Titanium White, etc. They are named that because cobalt or titanium is the pigment used to color the paint. And like Slant 3D mentioned... Ti Dioxide is on the order of diamond hard. So yeah... it would stand to reason that when the white plastic is molten... there are millions of tiny little diamond like shards that act like sand paper inside the nozzle. Run enough thru the nozzle and the ID will wear out. I'm not affiliated with Diamondback Nozzles but... I use them and have run two and a half miles of filament thru a .4mm Diamondback nozzle with zero wear. That includes two 1 kilo spools of glow in the dark as well as CF filled nylon. Thermal conductivity is way off the chart with these nozzles. Yes they're pricey but... like I said, 2.5 miles of filament thru a single nozzle without wear is very impressive.
TiO2 isn't on the order of diamond hard. Far from it. There are two allotypes of TiO2 commonly used industrially, one has a mohs hardness of 5.5 (comparable to a glass plate or a steel knife) and the other 6.5 (comparable to a steel file). Diamond is 10, and the mohs scale isn't linear. Granted, brass has a mohs hardness of 3, so it isn't surprising that TiO2 is able to scratch at brass nozzles and erode them away...
Btw nice that you used toothpaste as example. All the white toothpastes use tio2 as colorant
Pretty much everything now uses TiO2 as the white portion of colorant and to add opacity. Lead white used to be used, but that has fallen out of favor because of... well... lead.
Very interesting - What colours besides black that you mentioned, is preferred for keeping the tear on the machine down?
Darker colors are better
It is the crystalline nature of Ti02 that makes it so hard, not specifically the fact that there is Titanium in it. Consider how soft pure aluminum is. Aluminum is one of the more ductile metals. Aluminum oxide, more specifically aluminum(III) oxide, formula Al2O3, can form gem quality crystals. These crystals include Ruby and Saphire, which are second only to Diamond in hardness.
Interesting video.... where can I get that black bust over your right shoulder?
_"WHiTe FiLAmEnT wiLL DEsTrOy yOUr 3D PRinTEr"_
Back in the real word, white filament wears out the nozzle a bit faster.
it got you to click dummy
I've noticed that natural PLA (no colour) is more brittle, stiff, and you can sometimes see stress marks in the form of white disks inside the filament.
I’m new to 3d printing and have been going absolutely mad trying to figure out what’s wrong with my printer, and this whole time I’ve been using a cheap brand white PLA 🤦♂️
A cheap roll can cause all sorts of problems. And so can premium priced roll if it's defective just use whatever works.
I usually use one brand filament for most works. Not cheap but decent (e-sun). Than tried some premium Prusament PLA. Two rolls went through no problem. Third roll had blocked nozzle every 5 hours or so. With every print. Tried the usual material for a change and it had no problems. Back to that damned third prusamnet roll and still blocked every now and than. Most likely would not find another problematic roll in next 50 Prusament orders. But haven't had even one problem with the usual brand so no plans to test it again.
logical but , white also looks uneven due to light and how it reflects, also i exclusively use white pla for all of my machines and i get 7-8 kgs of pla through standard brass nozzles without any issue and then i change the nozzle as monthly maintainance procedure when i level the bed . also i like to run by printer hot than usual to make sure prints dont fail at 210 nd 70. but i have observed, other colors look much better.
What are the optimum colours in the different materials for reducing wear?
Interesting. Wears out the nozzle?
Good to know, thank you!
No problem!
I started to print with black PLA and some layers separate! I increased from 200c to 210c and same results, what else can I do to have a solid result? Thanks!
Very strange, very cool, and very useful!
Thank you! Cheers!
So does Black use the smallest particle? Or would there be another color that would give you even smoother results?
The carbon in the black is just waaay softer
Is there any down side to just using hardened tips for printing everything?
titanium white pigments in acrylic and oil paint have different texture as compared to other pigments, its not as noticeable unless you have spent considerable time mixing your own paints but when you have the texture becomes obvious and you spend more time making white smooth than any other paint paint mix in my exp
i have this white fillament which i swear is so good, im currently printing something with black and it is just not the same quality as my white fillament, dont know why but its not necessarily bad to print with white
So what would be the best colorant color for a test print filament to reduce wear?
Colors other than white.
roughly how many spools of white filament will it take to start noticing a difference? i figure 1 or two should be ok
Do filemanet colors other than white ever use titanium dioxide? For example, light gray and pastel colors?
This is very interesting to know and it just came at a perfect moment for me to learn this as one of my printers last week started to show really 'odd' printing results which do resemble issues with the nozzle. (have been printing white quite a lot lately)
One of my personal favorite colors to print is the Prusament urban grey PETG. Not sure what difference it makes internally, but it just feels more soft to the hand. Not as hard as some other PETG variants.
Also this particular (pun intended) filament never failed on me when printing.
So I really wonder what makes that filament acting so different from the others? Does it have less "G" of PETG in it? Can the particles used to make grey be grinded down so much futher compared to other color dyes?
Titanium usually isn't added to grey dye. It's usually ash grey + carbon black, or it's a diazo pigment, which is short chain, non-abrasive, and naturally powdered(won't make plastic pasty). I don't see anything that would make plastic hard to work with there.
@@Bubu567 "I don't see anything that would make plastic hard to work with there."
Yep, it really makes a difference compared to other colors. That's why I really love that filament, even though I had no idea why... until now. Thanks for the explanation.
Does this happen to all material filaments? Because I purchased a 3D printer on September and it came with 2 spools PLA blue and PETG White and now I'm worried of using the White one, unless the colors are different depending on the material of the filament
White is the mose abrasive
@@slant3d Does gray/silver filament is as abrasive?
I haven’t watched the whole video yet but I have a plastic milk cartoon, it’s hdpe #2 white plastic (see: lactaid milk). Will this white destroy my 3D printer?
Well this is random. The other day I was just thinking about how I've had much less clogs now that I'm printing less white PLA and more different colors. Before I had to rebuild my ptfe lined hotend every 4~5 kilograms, now it's been fine for a much longer time, but I don't have a lot of data to compare it to.
That is interesting to learn. So black is easier on the nozzle. Are grey filaments harder on the nozzle than black? I don't normally like printing black due to it being harder to see finer details. But then I did just order a whole bunch of black filament. 😊
What would be a fix to these abrasive filaments? Hardened steel tips seems like a simple solution, albeit I'm stil new to printing
Hardened steel will work. Tungsten and diamond are arguably better, but definitely more expensive.
Was always wondering why silver/grey/white prints had to be sometimes much slower to print to get the same quality as black. Black seems to have better layer adhesion than other colors printed at the same speed.
Same here! Fascinating stuff.
I recently bought white filament. it worked great in the beginning but after a few days it suddenly does not print well (keeps flaking apart/not printing) I've done literally everything to assure it is not a mechanical issue. I have a few projects to finish with the white and cannot find any information on how to adjust for this. any help is greatly appreciated 🙏 ❤
Titanium dioxide is only about 20 Vickers, which makes it really pretty soft. Even if it was diamond, though, it wouldn't "destroy your printer". That's just silly. It might wear your nozzle and maybe even your Bowden tube a little if you have a Bowden printer. It won't hurt anything else significantly.
Of far greater concern is the use of aluminum gun cleaning rods, since the aluminum rods are always coated with aluminum oxide... a primary, and very hard, abrasive material.
Is Barium Sulfate or Zinc Sulfide/Zinc Oxide smaller? They might cost a bit more than Ti dioxide but they are readily available.
Zinc oxide has a Mohs hardness of 4.5, brass is 3.0. Seems like zinc oxide would likely still wear brass. Barium sulfate seems to have the same hardness as brass. If people are printing anything abrasive, or think they might someday, they should just get a hardened nozzle of some sort. They're easy to get and work as well as brass.