Good vid..about to install one in my 85, so this helps greatly. Quick question..what does your "cargo light" button do? I have one that doesn't turn anything on when I press it. Thanks
It turns on the light on the back of the cab, facing the bed, the clear light where a third brake light would be on later trucks. It's very useful when it's working right if you use your truck in the dark at all, which we all seem to end up doing at some point or another. General rule of thumb, don't hook up wires that go nowhere, like amplifier / power antenna signal (Typically blue), watch for the dimmer wire yoru factory radio had (If your truck had a radio), as not many aftermarket head units have a dimmer function other than a manual one in the settings. Most light up all the time, rather than with the headlights, it's annoying but you learn to live with it. I have no idea where the wires for the "Front" speakers in my truck go, they vanish off into the dash, probably best to leave them unhooked unless your truck actually has speakers behind the seat in the seatbelt cubby as some did. If all it has is door speakers, only hook up those and tape off the remaining speaker wires, but don't cut them short. It doesn't matter if you hook them up as front or back, both channels have the same roughly 14w RMS power. I don't care what your stereo says, it's going to be around 14 watts RMS, that's all the amps can make with the 12-14VDC they run on. Typical car stereos make 14W RMS out of four channels, left and right front, and left and right rear, amounting to about 56 watts total. Doesn't sound like much, and if it doesn't do the trick, you can always add an amp. Personally I think my system gets plenty loud with some tweaking, though I may add a slimline subwoofer once I get an actual tool box for my tools. Though adding an amp to these trucks is another bulk sized can of worms unless you want to upgrade the alternator, and wiring, or run a really efficient though low power amp, they make some that would work. Lastly, be careful tightening the screws back into the dash when securing the radio, the plastic is over 30 years old and likely is fragile, no one wants a drooping brand new radio in their vehicle. Also, you may have to fight door vibrations from the speakers. Other than that, if you have any other questions, lemme know, I'll try to help. EDIT: If you like I can get a quick video tonight of how the cargo light should function, lemme know.
you all probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Kendrick Maurice thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for the help man really useful stuff ive done quiet a few radio installs on newer vehicles but this year truck really had me messed up i didnt realize the ground is sperate from the harness keep up the good work really appreciate people like you who make videos to help me when i cant figure stuff out on my own👍👍
No problem, and good luck with the install, the only other thing I can think of is that if you truck has 6x9 doors speakers, they mount from the inside and the holes aren't actually oval, but two round holes with a center part cut out. My speakers fit without interfering, and the wires going to the tweeter pods cannot touch the sheet metal of the body, but you may want to check this if your speakers are mounted like mine. Glad I could help with the cargo light, clean that thing up good, put a couple good bright bulbs in it, it has two, or at least mine does, and it should work great. Bit like the light switch in the Bundy's house, in "Married... With Children, the one that turned on the light in the dog house, haha.
Haha! Great show..I installed 6x9's already, so all I have left is the head unit and hooking up the amp/subwoofer. I'm probably going to install a speaker in the passenger side spot of the dashboard too. Exciting stuff & definitely going to refer to your comment and vid again when I do so
If you put a speaker in there, make sure it's a dual channel speaker, AKA capible of working in stereo as a single speaker. Retrosound makes one, though I dunno how it sounds. The grill simply snaps in from the top, you have to gently pry it loose. There may or may not be wiring for the speaker, I wouldn't use it because, if there is wiring, it's wired for a single mono channel. I've never bothered putting a speaker in a location like that because I felt it will screw with the stereo imaging in the truck, balance it off to the right more than the left, but maybe not. As for the sub, I was planning on using a cadence SLW10S2 10" slim sub, an Atrend 10SME box, and a PowerBass XMA-2160IR amplifier (though it says it's discontinued on the site I normally use, Amazon still has it for now, but it's more expensive). I chose the box because I know it will fit behind the seat with the seat all the way back, the sub because ti's cheap and fits the box (But not Boss Audio level cheap), and the amp because it will run on a 10 gauge power wire, which means you don't need to upgrade much if anything to power it. Fused 10 gauge wire to the battery, with the fuse of course at the battery so if the wire shorts you don't burn your truck to the ground, ground the amp to one of the rear seat bolts or make a new hole, clean up the rust or paint for a good contact either way, signal wire from the amp (blue typically), a couple RCA inputs, short bit of speaker wire, you're set. I don't recommend mounting the amp to the sub box because the heat, vibrations, and limited space may damage it. Past that, I think that's all the insight I have, good luck with the install, hope it goes well. I dunno if I'll add a sub myself, keep too much stuff behind the seat haha.
Dead Reckon Dude thank you for all the helpful info..I'll have a much easier installation because of it! I've put aftermarket systems in multiple cars, but you've shined light on all the issues/problems that may arise. Thanks dude!!
I’m 4 years late but I need to know where is the inn off switch plugged into on the ac my prospectors ac used to work till I unplugged everything and I can find where the hvac cords go can you show me?
Good video very helpful. I have a question I wired everything together but every time I turn on my headlights the radio cuts off got any ideas what’s wrong?
I'd start by checking the power wires you used for voltage with a multimeter when you turn on the headlights. A lot of modern head units won't operate below about 10 volts DC.
so i got a 1990 dodge w150 and a pioneer xdm16bt and i hook all the power wires together i have both front and back speakers as well but when i turn on the stereo it powers on but no sound can you help?
Not sure man, I had wires from the stereo that seemed to go nowhere, it took me a bit to find the ones that actually go to my front door speakers. You might just have to toy with it for a while or run new speaker wires.
Dead Reckon i have put new wires and speakers i hooked them up with a portable speaker battery and they work but i hook everything to the stereo and turns on but no sound what so ever and i call a stereo place and they say they’ll do it for $40 every half hour so i’m fucked i guess😂😂
I got it at www.sonicelectronix.com, part number is Scosche CR01B, alternatively you can use the Axxess BT-1817, it fits 80's and 90's Dodge pickups, but it's $32, versus the Scosche CR01B which is only about $5, also the Metra 70-1817 is another option, it's about $7. Up to you which you buy, I used the Metra, they usually have a bit higher quality stuff but I've used Scosche in the past, they're all good enough as long as they're under 10 bucks. The quality of these adapters is rarely worth paying $30 for an adapter, you're just paying that much because it's something unusual. Chrysler used the flat type radio plugs a lot over the years and some websites say those won't fit, some say they will. I know for a fact they'll fit most 80's Dodge pickups up to at least 1985, I haven't owned or installed stereos in anything later than a 1985 but it's probably the same up until the last square body was made in 1992. It's only because of the issues I've stated where speaker wires are run a bit differently on certain models, you might wire up the fronts and have it coming out the back or center channel, so that's the only thing you have to watch for, as I said in the video.
Dead Reckon hey thanks. That helped me a lot. I was afraid I'd have to cut wiring. It was too risky. Didn't want to fry anything. Found a conversation clip for my 1990 dodge ram
Oh My Goodness! This guy is a hack! Doing a hack stereo installation. Please do not use this guy for an example. You do not twist wires together and electrical tape, unless you do not care about your vehicle or stereo. If that's the case, why even bother.
Would you rather have a Best Buy hackjob where they cut out your dash plug and use those janky crimp connectors that always fail? Seen plenty of those. Solder in an automobile isn't a great idea with wiring either, as the joints often fail from vibration. An install like this will last plenty long enough, and yeah it was a bit of a hack job because technically they don't sell a kit to even put a stereo in that truck, I had to wing it. Thanks for watching though, even though you don't really know what you're talking about. Oooh, taped up speaker wires and a couple 12 volt wires on a fused line, so scary, such a hack job. It's not like I'm hacking up the harness, or taping up some 8 gauge wire going to an amp. The only hacked up parts are removable and again, fuse protected. But hey, someone was bound to get offended by this, people seem to get offended by their own shadows these days. For the record, you clearly haven't seen my other videos, such as the ones on the $450 sentra, oh boy you haven't seen the half of this hacks great works! But hey, what have you contributed? Oh wait, nothing on your youtube channel... Well, that's fine, while I'm out here trying to give people a pointer or two on shit there seems to be no information on, you're out here bashing me for doing just that. Oh don't worry, I'm not angry, keep up the hate, it only makes me laugh. I will reiterate, you clearly have not seen the rest of my channel content! Thanks for the good laugh!
Good vid..about to install one in my 85, so this helps greatly. Quick question..what does your "cargo light" button do? I have one that doesn't turn anything on when I press it. Thanks
It turns on the light on the back of the cab, facing the bed, the clear light where a third brake light would be on later trucks. It's very useful when it's working right if you use your truck in the dark at all, which we all seem to end up doing at some point or another.
General rule of thumb, don't hook up wires that go nowhere, like amplifier / power antenna signal (Typically blue), watch for the dimmer wire yoru factory radio had (If your truck had a radio), as not many aftermarket head units have a dimmer function other than a manual one in the settings. Most light up all the time, rather than with the headlights, it's annoying but you learn to live with it. I have no idea where the wires for the "Front" speakers in my truck go, they vanish off into the dash, probably best to leave them unhooked unless your truck actually has speakers behind the seat in the seatbelt cubby as some did. If all it has is door speakers, only hook up those and tape off the remaining speaker wires, but don't cut them short. It doesn't matter if you hook them up as front or back, both channels have the same roughly 14w RMS power. I don't care what your stereo says, it's going to be around 14 watts RMS, that's all the amps can make with the 12-14VDC they run on. Typical car stereos make 14W RMS out of four channels, left and right front, and left and right rear, amounting to about 56 watts total. Doesn't sound like much, and if it doesn't do the trick, you can always add an amp. Personally I think my system gets plenty loud with some tweaking, though I may add a slimline subwoofer once I get an actual tool box for my tools. Though adding an amp to these trucks is another bulk sized can of worms unless you want to upgrade the alternator, and wiring, or run a really efficient though low power amp, they make some that would work.
Lastly, be careful tightening the screws back into the dash when securing the radio, the plastic is over 30 years old and likely is fragile, no one wants a drooping brand new radio in their vehicle. Also, you may have to fight door vibrations from the speakers. Other than that, if you have any other questions, lemme know, I'll try to help.
EDIT:
If you like I can get a quick video tonight of how the cargo light should function, lemme know.
its for the light on the outside of your truck on the top of the cab its to help you see if you need it outside
you all probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Bowen Rylan instablaster ;)
@Kendrick Maurice thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for the help man really useful stuff ive done quiet a few radio installs on newer vehicles but this year truck really had me messed up i didnt realize the ground is sperate from the harness keep up the good work really appreciate people like you who make videos to help me when i cant figure stuff out on my own👍👍
Whoa!! THANKS MAN!! Super helpful info on the stereo installation and finally solved the cargo light mystery!! Thanks again!!!
No problem, and good luck with the install, the only other thing I can think of is that if you truck has 6x9 doors speakers, they mount from the inside and the holes aren't actually oval, but two round holes with a center part cut out. My speakers fit without interfering, and the wires going to the tweeter pods cannot touch the sheet metal of the body, but you may want to check this if your speakers are mounted like mine.
Glad I could help with the cargo light, clean that thing up good, put a couple good bright bulbs in it, it has two, or at least mine does, and it should work great. Bit like the light switch in the Bundy's house, in "Married... With Children, the one that turned on the light in the dog house, haha.
Haha! Great show..I installed 6x9's already, so all I have left is the head unit and hooking up the amp/subwoofer. I'm probably going to install a speaker in the passenger side spot of the dashboard too. Exciting stuff & definitely going to refer to your comment and vid again when I do so
As far as the cargo light, I may rewire or place a good set of bulbs..time will tell
If you put a speaker in there, make sure it's a dual channel speaker, AKA capible of working in stereo as a single speaker. Retrosound makes one, though I dunno how it sounds. The grill simply snaps in from the top, you have to gently pry it loose. There may or may not be wiring for the speaker, I wouldn't use it because, if there is wiring, it's wired for a single mono channel. I've never bothered putting a speaker in a location like that because I felt it will screw with the stereo imaging in the truck, balance it off to the right more than the left, but maybe not.
As for the sub, I was planning on using a cadence SLW10S2 10" slim sub, an Atrend 10SME box, and a PowerBass XMA-2160IR amplifier (though it says it's discontinued on the site I normally use, Amazon still has it for now, but it's more expensive). I chose the box because I know it will fit behind the seat with the seat all the way back, the sub because ti's cheap and fits the box (But not Boss Audio level cheap), and the amp because it will run on a 10 gauge power wire, which means you don't need to upgrade much if anything to power it. Fused 10 gauge wire to the battery, with the fuse of course at the battery so if the wire shorts you don't burn your truck to the ground, ground the amp to one of the rear seat bolts or make a new hole, clean up the rust or paint for a good contact either way, signal wire from the amp (blue typically), a couple RCA inputs, short bit of speaker wire, you're set. I don't recommend mounting the amp to the sub box because the heat, vibrations, and limited space may damage it. Past that, I think that's all the insight I have, good luck with the install, hope it goes well. I dunno if I'll add a sub myself, keep too much stuff behind the seat haha.
Dead Reckon Dude thank you for all the helpful info..I'll have a much easier installation because of it! I've put aftermarket systems in multiple cars, but you've shined light on all the issues/problems that may arise. Thanks dude!!
I’m 4 years late but I need to know where is the inn off switch plugged into on the ac my prospectors ac used to work till I unplugged everything and I can find where the hvac cords go can you show me?
This truck never had AC, I'm not really sure where it all plugs in, never seen one of these trucks with factory air. Sorry.
Good video very helpful. I have a question I wired everything together but every time I turn on my headlights the radio cuts off got any ideas what’s wrong?
I'd start by checking the power wires you used for voltage with a multimeter when you turn on the headlights. A lot of modern head units won't operate below about 10 volts DC.
Ya it's tricky. Good stuff muh man.
so i got a 1990 dodge w150 and a pioneer xdm16bt and i hook all the power wires together i have both front and back speakers as well but when i turn on the stereo it powers on but no sound can you help?
Not sure man, I had wires from the stereo that seemed to go nowhere, it took me a bit to find the ones that actually go to my front door speakers. You might just have to toy with it for a while or run new speaker wires.
Dead Reckon i have put new wires and speakers i hooked them up with a portable speaker battery and they work but i hook everything to the stereo and turns on but no sound what so ever and i call a stereo place and they say they’ll do it for $40 every half hour so i’m fucked i guess😂😂
How do I take the JBL cover off of the stock speakers? 🤦🏻♂️ I have an 83 ram charger, and this is killing me 😅
If it's got JBL speakers, they're aftermarket, and I'm not really sure. Probably snap on or something.
Where did you get the wiring harness clips that clip on the factory harness?
I got it at www.sonicelectronix.com, part number is Scosche CR01B, alternatively you can use the Axxess BT-1817, it fits 80's and 90's Dodge pickups, but it's $32, versus the Scosche CR01B which is only about $5, also the Metra 70-1817 is another option, it's about $7. Up to you which you buy, I used the Metra, they usually have a bit higher quality stuff but I've used Scosche in the past, they're all good enough as long as they're under 10 bucks. The quality of these adapters is rarely worth paying $30 for an adapter, you're just paying that much because it's something unusual.
Chrysler used the flat type radio plugs a lot over the years and some websites say those won't fit, some say they will. I know for a fact they'll fit most 80's Dodge pickups up to at least 1985, I haven't owned or installed stereos in anything later than a 1985 but it's probably the same up until the last square body was made in 1992. It's only because of the issues I've stated where speaker wires are run a bit differently on certain models, you might wire up the fronts and have it coming out the back or center channel, so that's the only thing you have to watch for, as I said in the video.
Dead Reckon hey thanks. That helped me a lot. I was afraid I'd have to cut wiring. It was too risky. Didn't want to fry anything. Found a conversation clip for my 1990 dodge ram
Glad to hear it, good luck with the install, I'd recommend some 6x9's in boxes behind the seat if you can spare it, really fills the mid range.
Actually that radio looks like it came from a Dodge K car.
Oh My Goodness! This guy is a hack! Doing a hack stereo installation. Please do not use this guy for an example. You do not twist wires together and electrical tape, unless you do not care about your vehicle or stereo. If that's the case, why even bother.
Would you rather have a Best Buy hackjob where they cut out your dash plug and use those janky crimp connectors that always fail? Seen plenty of those. Solder in an automobile isn't a great idea with wiring either, as the joints often fail from vibration. An install like this will last plenty long enough, and yeah it was a bit of a hack job because technically they don't sell a kit to even put a stereo in that truck, I had to wing it.
Thanks for watching though, even though you don't really know what you're talking about. Oooh, taped up speaker wires and a couple 12 volt wires on a fused line, so scary, such a hack job. It's not like I'm hacking up the harness, or taping up some 8 gauge wire going to an amp. The only hacked up parts are removable and again, fuse protected. But hey, someone was bound to get offended by this, people seem to get offended by their own shadows these days.
For the record, you clearly haven't seen my other videos, such as the ones on the $450 sentra, oh boy you haven't seen the half of this hacks great works! But hey, what have you contributed? Oh wait, nothing on your youtube channel... Well, that's fine, while I'm out here trying to give people a pointer or two on shit there seems to be no information on, you're out here bashing me for doing just that. Oh don't worry, I'm not angry, keep up the hate, it only makes me laugh. I will reiterate, you clearly have not seen the rest of my channel content! Thanks for the good laugh!
Dead Reckon Guy's right, man. Get your shit together for fuck's sake.