Hi - Great video. Thank you. When applying the slurry - must it be wet (ish) when laying? - Can I paint a few slabs first which may dry before? - Would be grateful if you could let me know. Cheers.
Hi, yes the primer must be wet when laying. Its best practice to apply the primer after the bed has been prepared and then lower the slab down before the primer dries out. I wouldnt like to paint a few first. Mark
If only the company I paid to lay my patio had seen this video.... They were supposed to be expert patio installers, but used probably 20mm sub base, left dips in the slabs which now collects water and didn't compact the pointing which was only between 5mm & 10mm deep. The first time I jet washed the patio the pointing came out!!! I am doing it myself next time.
Excellent and highly instructive video with very clear and logical explanations. May I please ask a question? I need to cover a much smaller area and plan to use prefabricated concrete slabs readily available at do it yourself stores. Each slab measures 40cm long, 20cm wide and 4.5cm height and weighs about 7.5kg. The whole projects requires no more than 6 of these slabs (maybe only 4). Would you recommend using the exact same base (foundation) principles as illustrated in the video or can the design be simplified? Thank you
While I'm certainly not a pro, I thought I'd reply to you seeing as no one else has. This technique would apply to any size patio, big or small. So copy this and you'll be fine.
@@Dovey129 Thank you for your answer. Given that the cost was not large I decided to experiment and indeed you are right. Using the construction method you described worked well and the project is finished.
When I last laid a patio, I did 150mm sub base and 100mm laying bed, that was my first time though and I've heard I might have gone a bit overboard, and I'm due to do a larger patio in the next couple of months, would you say 100mm sub base and 40mm is absolutely fine for a patio to last ten years or more? It would certainly help keep costs down on materials for my 35m2 patio.
Hi there, I'm a landscaper, so can answer your question! 100mm for the subbase will be absolutely fine. I would go for a slightly deeper mortar bed. 60 - 70mm is perfect
Going to try using a 15lb mallet and board, as it has to be done this week and nobody has a whacker plate spare. Its such a small area that im doing that hipefilly it should be fine.
Hi, We are glad that you found the video helpful. The answer is yes you can still lay sandstone paving in December but the important thing is to keep a very close eye on the weather forecast. Industry best practice is not to lay when the temperature is 5 degrees and falling. Any paving that you have laid while the temperature is ok will need to be fully covered overnight to protect it from ground frosts and hessian sacking is a great product for this. My advice is, if you have any doubts maybe delay the project until you are confident that all your hard work and investment is not wasted because of the winter weather. Mark.
Do you need a geo grid if building a patio on an already made and set raised level? We are adding a patio to an area that has a geo grid shed base already installed
@Doodahdoodles it went OK, with what she wanted , still looks good , although need to put edging around it . I compacted the dirt first, then weed sheet, then sand . and it's still level .
It might be recommended in an area where you have a lot of weeds, but I suppose it may not be necessary for an area you don't. Also, a concrete base would probably stop weeds from growing through, but maybe not so much a purely gravel/sand mixture. (I have no experience doing this but they are just some thoughts)
Similar to Matthew's comment if you are laying on an area where weeds exist it would not do any harm to give extra protection. That said if you have the correct subbase and laying bed it would be quite invasive weeds to affect the paving stability. Mark
Hi Claire, the reason I remove some of the bedding mortar is to ensure that the joint depth is a minimum of 24mm to allow for the Pavestone Pointfix jointing compound to be correctly installed. I hope this answers your question.
Hi, If you are filling the gaps with gravel then there would be no need to point the paving. However, bear in mind that water will pass through the gravel so I would ensure that the laying bed also has some means of allowing water to pass through otherwise water could hold underneath the paving and freeze in the winter causing the paving to lift. If you mean using the timber to mark out the area then no that would not be needed as you are creating an arc. I hope this answers your question. Mark
@@pavestonetv2587 Many thanks for the reply. Ah do you mean like a weed membrane/geotex type material? I'll also be using a manual tamper for my sins. Doing it on a budget, so trying to avoid having to rent some of those heavy duty tools. Edit:- I probably should've explained that they'll be more stepping stones so will have some gaps between. I suppose the sand won't be needed then?
Hi Michael, Within the pack there will be a laying pattern for you to easily follow. If you cannot find it the laying patterns are on our website. Mark
fck me thats overkill to death! you dont need that priming slurry at all - lifting that flag to show how its "bonded" give over, thats because its fecking mortar! lol
@@Browny137A why you woud need to have to stick so much anyway? Does it have some pull force in any circumstances? Like you need a slurry in case someone try to pry bar your slabs on a sunday? I don't get it either. There is no force acting agaisnt the slab that requires it to be more sticky.
@@1Akanan1 I've just laid a sandstone patio, I started off without slurry and half of them didn't bond (stick) to the mortar. The problem with this is even if they didn't wobble, they sounded hollow. Also can get problems in the future with moisture getting under the slab etc.
You don't even need the mortar beneath the slabs. A layer of sharp sand can be spread on top of the sub-base and the slabs can just be laid on that. You don't even need to compact the sharp sand layer, just screed it level. These slabs are probably large and heavy enough that they're not going to shift when walked on.
![[FULL EP.16] เซียนพาลุย "เผือก-ฟรอยด์" กรี๊ดลั่น จนปูหนี | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FsqUvwS3b-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Very well explained thank you so much. This will be a great help.
Best instructional video on this topic I have seen- thanks
Loved this video. Great how to guide from start to finish 👍🏽
thanks very much for uploading
Who's heree playign the 'it's essential" drinking gaame ?
Me I’m pisssssed as a flart. It’s essential
Very clear and easy to understand, thanks!
Informative and to the point
Excellent video
Excellent video.
Very clear instructions great video 😊
Really pleased you enjoyed the video. Mark.
That will be there in 1000 years time. I would compact the earth and not bother with sub-base on such a light use patio.
Hi - Great video. Thank you. When applying the slurry - must it be wet (ish) when laying? - Can I paint a few slabs first which may dry before? - Would be grateful if you could let me know. Cheers.
Hi, yes the primer must be wet when laying. Its best practice to apply the primer after the bed has been prepared and then lower the slab down before the primer dries out. I wouldnt like to paint a few first. Mark
Essential
Cracking....Thanks
If only the company I paid to lay my patio had seen this video.... They were supposed to be expert patio installers, but used probably 20mm sub base, left dips in the slabs which now collects water and didn't compact the pointing which was only between 5mm & 10mm deep. The first time I jet washed the patio the pointing came out!!! I am doing it myself next time.
Thr one thing I will say is that you need to leave a newly pointed patio for at least 6 weeks before you Jet wash it
Excellent and highly instructive video with very clear and logical explanations.
May I please ask a question? I need to cover a much smaller area and plan to use prefabricated concrete slabs readily available at do it yourself stores.
Each slab measures 40cm long, 20cm wide and 4.5cm height and weighs about 7.5kg.
The whole projects requires no more than 6 of these slabs (maybe only 4).
Would you recommend using the exact same base (foundation) principles as illustrated in the video or can the design be simplified?
Thank you
While I'm certainly not a pro, I thought I'd reply to you seeing as no one else has.
This technique would apply to any size patio, big or small. So copy this and you'll be fine.
@@Dovey129 Thank you for your answer. Given that the cost was not large I decided to experiment and indeed you are right. Using the construction method you described worked well and the project is finished.
When I last laid a patio, I did 150mm sub base and 100mm laying bed, that was my first time though and I've heard I might have gone a bit overboard, and I'm due to do a larger patio in the next couple of months, would you say 100mm sub base and 40mm is absolutely fine for a patio to last ten years or more? It would certainly help keep costs down on materials for my 35m2 patio.
Best wishes with the install mate.
Hi there, I'm a landscaper, so can answer your question! 100mm for the subbase will be absolutely fine. I would go for a slightly deeper mortar bed. 60 - 70mm is perfect
@stenhouseh more like landscraper 100mm is bare minimum and is not a 1 fits all it depends on the ground and 60 to 70mm is silly
Going to try using a 15lb mallet and board, as it has to be done this week and nobody has a whacker plate spare.
Its such a small area that im doing that hipefilly it should be fine.
Thanks for the video which is very helpful. Can I lay the sandstone slabs in December? The temperature will be 4 - 8 C next week.
Hi, We are glad that you found the video helpful. The answer is yes you can still lay sandstone paving in December but the important thing is to keep a very close eye on the weather forecast. Industry best practice is not to lay when the temperature is 5 degrees and falling. Any paving that you have laid while the temperature is ok will need to be fully covered overnight to protect it from ground frosts and hessian sacking is a great product for this. My advice is, if you have any doubts maybe delay the project until you are confident that all your hard work and investment is not wasted because of the winter weather. Mark.
It might have been better to have the fall on the side of the flower beds.
Thanks. Just wondering why there is a no damp proof membrane?
Do you need a geo grid if building a patio on an already made and set raised level? We are adding a patio to an area that has a geo grid shed base already installed
Interested to know why you didnt seal the sandstone. I know some sweat by sealing natural stone whereas others prerfer not to...
What spirit level is this please. I have been searching for ages but can’t find one with those fall off lines on
Great video.
How do you calculate the required amount of cement and sharp sand required for the desired area?
Thanks
Please can you tell me which brand that paving is,as I need some like that to match up with ones previously laid.thanks
this is my task over next weekend, although the neighbour wants the slabs straight on to weed control sheet thats on dirt
How did it go?
@Doodahdoodles it went OK, with what she wanted , still looks good , although need to put edging around it .
I compacted the dirt first, then weed sheet, then sand . and it's still level .
Should have used grit (sharp) sand
i think you got the fall going the wrong way
Awesome video, but where can we find those products? How about a link?
Just type the names in google
Do you not need to lay the anti weed membrane down before the sun base?
It might be recommended in an area where you have a lot of weeds, but I suppose it may not be necessary for an area you don't. Also, a concrete base would probably stop weeds from growing through, but maybe not so much a purely gravel/sand mixture. (I have no experience doing this but they are just some thoughts)
@@matthewbrown4933 thanks mate 👍🏼
Similar to Matthew's comment if you are laying on an area where weeds exist it would not do any harm to give extra protection. That said if you have the correct subbase and laying bed it would be quite invasive weeds to affect the paving stability. Mark
Hi, sorry if I missed this part. but why would you remove the concrete from the joints when you're going to point anyway?
Hi Claire, the reason I remove some of the bedding mortar is to ensure that the joint depth is a minimum of 24mm to allow for the Pavestone Pointfix jointing compound to be correctly installed. I hope this answers your question.
The mortor removed is a weaker mix and also a different colour.
You did a fab job right up to the point you used point fix....could you have not pointed properly
Did you not notice this was just one big advert for pavestone .
@greensidemags lol no I need to pay more attention
Am I right in thinking that if I've spacing paving out in an arc but filling the gaps with gravel that there's no need to point or use the timber?
Hi, If you are filling the gaps with gravel then there would be no need to point the paving. However, bear in mind that water will pass through the gravel so I would ensure that the laying bed also has some means of allowing water to pass through otherwise water could hold underneath the paving and freeze in the winter causing the paving to lift. If you mean using the timber to mark out the area then no that would not be needed as you are creating an arc. I hope this answers your question. Mark
@@pavestonetv2587 Many thanks for the reply. Ah do you mean like a weed membrane/geotex type material? I'll also be using a manual tamper for my sins. Doing it on a budget, so trying to avoid having to rent some of those heavy duty tools.
Edit:- I probably should've explained that they'll be more stepping stones so will have some gaps between. I suppose the sand won't be needed then?
Why is it so easy to lift that piece of paver? I worry that the pavers are not stable enough to stay in place.
He cut it out for demonstration purposes
why not make a concrete slab first ,, level it and then put the stone, just honest question
Because you don’t need to. Massive effort
How long have you got to work with the cement? Im an amatuer worried that itll start going off whilst im setting the slabs
No panic on the cement, you’ll have an hour or 2 before the mix goes off
@@Bennybigballs24 But then if it starts to go off you can put a bit more water in and work it so you can carry on using it.
Sorry if this is a daft question, but how do you work out how to arrange the different sized slabs so you end with your square patio? Thanks
Hi Michael, Within the pack there will be a laying pattern for you to easily follow. If you cannot find it the laying patterns are on our website. Mark
@@pavestonetv2587 Thanks very much :-)
It must make a function on price work 😅😂😅😅😂 👍
If someone asks you your height - do you tell them in millimeters ?
Why don't you put contractors fabric first?
Don’t need it, crushed rock compacted is not going too allow weeds through.
en Español
He used word 'essential' at least 85 times 😂
😂😂😂😂
fck me thats overkill to death! you dont need that priming slurry at all - lifting that flag to show how its "bonded" give over, thats because its fecking mortar! lol
That's not true, it wouldn't stick anywhere near as well without the slurry
@@Browny137A why you woud need to have to stick so much anyway? Does it have some pull force in any circumstances? Like you need a slurry in case someone try to pry bar your slabs on a sunday?
I don't get it either. There is no force acting agaisnt the slab that requires it to be more sticky.
@@1Akanan1 I've just laid a sandstone patio, I started off without slurry and half of them didn't bond (stick) to the mortar.
The problem with this is even if they didn't wobble, they sounded hollow. Also can get problems in the future with moisture getting under the slab etc.
You don't even need the mortar beneath the slabs. A layer of sharp sand can be spread on top of the sub-base and the slabs can just be laid on that. You don't even need to compact the sharp sand layer, just screed it level. These slabs are probably large and heavy enough that they're not going to shift when walked on.
Why use a slurry .Who is going to lift the slab anyway