A bit silly alright. I was just recording another wet belt video on a fiesta today using the locking tool. There is a fair amount of stripping and reassembling but the belt replacement itself is a 5 minute job once in at it 🤷🏼♂️😂😂😂
@@scooby0000Reduce friction so reduced fuel consumption. Increase belt lifetime as it runs in a frictionless environment. This was the theory. The reality is very different.
I was stuck with a time dead line & couldn’t get the tooling. But I don’t think I would be buying it after doing myself. There probably isn’t any room for error so just don’t make any 😬😬😂😂 Thanks Shaun 🙏🙏
Fair play to you for doing that without the tools. I’ve probably done 50+ of these wet belts on fiesta focus and transit but we have the tool to do it. The starter motor comes off to lock the flywheel and there’s a small 10mm bolt just above the driveshaft that comes out to put the crank locking pin in and 2 tools to lock the camshafts. Also just one quick point the exhaust can be a pain to weld all the round if you cut it but if you disconnect it from the turbo 4 13mm bolts and the 2 13mm that bolt it to the sump and one 10mm bracket bolt you can pull exhaust out the way without having to cut it. The bolts can snap on the exhaust by the turbo so use plenty of wd or heat if available. Just saves cutting and welding, might be a better way for some ppl. Well done tho very impressed you did it with no timing tools as these have to be spot on to run right. The oil is 5/20 btw, very important as doesn’t deteriorate the belt so much. Ps also use a friction ring when putting the crank pulley back on, it stops everything moving as you tighten the pulley.
Jay I have to say that is a very well worded comment, with plenty of good information in it 🙏🙏🙏 On this vehicle I was under a time restraint and only done without locking tools due to this. I have gotten one since & used it in another video doing a head on one of these. Also where the exhaust joins close to the steering rack was welded together prior to me, hence the decision to cut the exhaust. Thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏
You did really well mate with no timing tools, the first few I did I used to cut the exhaust but I’m not the best welder and had trouble welding all the way round especially the top so now I just unbolt from where the cat joins the turbo. Great vid mate 👍👍👍
@@lynxstarautomotive208 i actually don’t know. I only cut it because it was welded where the pipes bolted together around the steering rack. Saved time messing around 😬😬
A job well done, a proper mechanic applying proper teachings. I don't have one of these cars as I don't do Fords, but watched it with interest all the same.
Thank you very much, there can be a little bit too much emphasis on text books and tooling, with not enough emphasis on experience & what should be common sense 🙏🙏🙏👍
Hi Nev, the are notorious for failing. Cylinder heads crack & timing belts degrade all the time. Blocking the oil strainer. Not too many people like that engine 😬😬😬
Thanks for sharing always a pleasure watching a craftsman fully qualified to practice his trade and to train others in it hopefully you get some loyal deciples that appreciate what there being taught
This Is how a mechanic gets the job done. I'm proud to say so. There's so many people that make us look bad by being incompetent. But you my friend know your stuff thanks for the help 👍
Are you sure that you are not related to me 🤔we sound very similar 😂😂😂 It really does seem like if the book or computer doesn’t say it , it cannot be done. Switch on that brain and let’s get to work. 👏👏👏
Good informative video on how to replace the belts on the notorious eco boost engine. Clear steps on how to time up the inlet and exhaust camshafts and also using the flywheel to make sure the crankshaft is also at TDC on no 1 cycle of course. I'm glad that you also turned the engine over by hand twice to rechecked alignment. I've seen so many novice mechanics just put it back together and turn the key destroying the valves. Turn over by hand and you won't do any damage, and then you can re-align the timing if necessary. Nice job.
Thank you Michael, I’m glad you liked it 🙏🙏🙏 I have bought the correct timing tool since and find it a lot easier, but I haven’t ever bought the torque multiplier for tightening the crank bolt and have done lots of these jobs. I get a big bar and give a good squeeze 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ and it never stirs. I know it to be the wrong process but it works for me 😬
@@SilverSeeker232 Ford say that once the OE recommended oil is used it should last as recommended. But lots of people used oils not suitable for wet belts & the high pressure fuel pumps can often leak slightly and small amounts of petrol can get into the oil causing the belts to prematurely fail 😬😬
@@SilverSeeker232 it just has to be the grade recommended by the manufacturer and not some cheaper grocery store type oil. A lot of commenters have been speaking about the specific details, so it could be a big debate 😂😂😂
@@SilverSeeker232 that is exactly the frame of thought need. There is no straight forward answer on different cars. All of the above are up for debate 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Fantastic reply though 💪💪💪
There is a bit of time involved in them Matt. It would probably be nicer to have the timing tool but easy enough to work around, no bother to a chap like yourself. Thanks for watching Matt 🙏🙏👍
nice work around without the tools👍 , most Garages would not touch it without the timing tools and a torque multiplier for the crank pulley bolt 🤣. nice cut on the exhaust btw no messing about with you 💪💯.😜 Thanks for sharing.
I possibly shouldn’t have tackled it but sometimes needs must 🤷🏼♂️ Someone had spot welded the exhaust joining bolts over the steering rack & I wasn’t going there, so hey ho let’s cut it 🤣🤣
Hi Peter, good video I have done this few of these couple of years ago ( I would say there is one thing you missed that is the washer that goes between crank bolt ) yes when you open there is none but ford mentions about the shim washer that you must install when reinstalling the crank bolt if not the crank will turn as there is no locking notch ) i usually also install a new water pump ring that also goes behind the timing cover as water and oil mixes ( that impact gun was so powerful ) woah 😨 nice work 👍👍
I know about the washer they mentioned it on Autodata but I didn’t have it so I carried on regardless. If it didn’t slip before, it won’t slip now. I changed the seal but didn’t record it 😬 Were you changing the belts due to them failing prematurely or just high mile vehicles ? And nice to have you back comments 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 couple of them as they had high millage, oh yeah because of oil pressure too ( the belt gets worn it goes all into pick up tube ) very bad engine design ( 3 cylinder ) 👍👍
Superb walk through Peter. Main take aways are 2 belts need changed and sump off to check and remove debris from pick up. With sump off could just lock the flywheel and just base time the engine
Yes Dave, base timing the camshaft’s and crank is perfect but the only thing to watch for is the crank sensor is getting its signal from the crank pulley & not actually crank position hence the necessity for the crank pulley pin to be inserted at 1 o clock, everything else will work out fine thereafter. I didn’t know if it would work out ok but I had to chance it & see 😬😬
@@TheBmw530driver if you rotate the crankshaft or flywheel twice it turn the camshaft and other components once. So 2 turns of the crank rotates the every once. It just gives peace of mind 😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 Honestly, I don't know the price, sorry. It's good to replace as a precaution since you're already taking apart a lot of pieces to get in there.
‘… the wet belt teeth degrade, blocks the oil filter gauze and then the engine fails..’ That sounds to me like a deliberate design intent. Built-in obsolescence masquerading as a ‘characteristic’ in engine design. Makes you wonder what ‘characteristics’ these manufactures have built in the their ‘environmentally friendly’ electric vehicles.
Not the best of ideas 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ Probably silly tackling it without locking tool but I can be a bit headstrong like that. A bit like Scrappy in Scoby doo 😂😂
Enjoyed the video as it took me back to the 70s when I had to do my own maintenance, the timing marks back then where on the flywheel as standard and also on the cam end pulley, I wonder why that all changed.
Usually the engine actually fails before the belt completely strips. Pieces of the belt gather in the oil pump pick up and it’s usually too late before the driver bothers doing anything about their oil light flickering on
@@markdugan7803 Ford saying new engine are absolutely correct. Wouldn’t entertain a rebuilt one you’ll have nothing but issues. To fully recondition these it costs pretty much the same as a brand new lump so it’s pointless plus your turbo and vacuum pump will also probably be goosed
This mechanic deserves a medal for his work, using good old logic. Top man. Dread to think what the total cost of repairing this engine? 😱😱😱 I would scrap that engine, and fit any engine with a cam chain 👍
Hi Nigel, they are not too bad to do. I would advise getting a locking kit, they are only €100 or so. Well worth having & it costs around £1200 or €1400
I am passionate about mechanics and I also have a ford focus with the same engine. You did a great job and very informative. New subscriber. Greetings from Spain 🍻🍻
I had it sitting in my garage for best part of a week without ordering a locking tool kit & the when it had to be finished for Friday with no locking kit available, well if I failed I failed but if it worked I hit my deadline of getting the customer back his car 😬😬 So I just took a chance on it and it worked out, the crankshaft ring for the sensor is on the crank pulley & it’s free floating, the first time I have come across this. All’s well that ends well Pete 😂😂😂😂👍
The crankshaft pulley bolt should be tightened initially to 60Nm then use a 5:1 torque multiplier 5 x 90 degrees so final torque will be around 300 Nm also ford say to fit a washer shim before refitting the pulley even though their isn't one there originally . Apart from that a very informative and interesting
I saw that about the washer but didn’t get one in the kit 🤷🏼♂️ didn’t have the torque multiplier either so just tightened it as tight as I could & it worked. I sometimes think that manufacturers can over complicate things to scare some technicians away from the job. Sense, logic & experience must sometimes come into play & just get the job done. Very informative & helpful comment though, thanks Stuart 🙏🙏😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 I always talk to my milwaukee tool.... 2 seconds and it will never come loose again 🤣👌great job. Its a terrible engine to work on. The other brand from France with also a wet belt is for more simple to replace. Greetings from the Netherlands 👌
@@RobertBosch9397 greetings back from Ireland 👋👋 I like your common sense approach & you are correct 2 seconds with a Milwaukee & nothing is coming loose. Thanks Robert 😉😉👍
Done loads of the 1.0 1.2 psa wet belts heard these had sane issues cracking video done many belts as you say just mark it up ya cant go wrong top video
Another great video thanks Peter. Interesting to see that you cut the exhaust front pipe for speed and easier removal of the sump been known to do the same myself on a few motors over the years. Not had to do a belt on an eco BOOM engine as yet but if I do I will do it your way
Absolutely amazing and informative video....almost gave me the bollocks to try and do this myself....but upon second thought, I think i'll take it to someone who's actually a qualified mechanic and let them do it 😂
Reason for failure is lack of servicing/extended service intervals and dare i say people cheaping out on the oil/incorrect type/grade. Use the Castrol 5/20 fully synthetic and change it every 6k miles.
All these measures do help. But quite a few commenters have had premature belt failure with dealer service history. BBC watchdog are pushing for a European recall as they did in the States 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281very true mate. Given it is a direct injection engine too I always say the single most important thing you can do to any engine is be mustard on your oil and filter changes, don't cheap out and get the best stuff possible. Extended service intervals are no good at all. Nice job BTW mate 😊 Never heard of a belt actually snapping though, have you? Isn't the recall actually about the tensioner failing on some US engines though, not sure if it effects the European market?
@@tomo870 I haven’t ever encountered one to snap either, only degrade an block the oil strainer. Then run a big end bearing 😬😬😬 There are differences between the American and European engines, the tensioner is why they recalled the American version which isn’t in the European. I guess avoidance is better than acceptance for Ford 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Fantastic! I've just had my 2012 50k miles done. Both belts. No one would take the job on. Had to go to main dealer, two and half day job, £1,600! I'm hoping for another ten years out of it, fingers crossed!
@@stevenc5227 No they didn't say. I had the belts done as preventive maintenance, it was running fine, always has done. I've experienced so many belt failures with other vehicles in the past. Only main dealer would do the job. I had to request they did the oil pump belt as well as the cam belt. The vehicle failed less than 100 miles after the job done, dealer said its not their fault, I got it recovered to them at my expense and they returned it to me fixed - they said a pipe had come off. 2k+ miles on, all is good!
@@johnrockley9472 I understand but what i am saying is you could have got a brand new engine fitted for roughly the same price as just the belts on the old engine, and it would have been the new improved engine, without the problems that you will get with the old one. And regular oil changes with the correct oil is also very important for the belts.
Really interesting video. I can see why I am getting a quote for £1600 from Ford to replace the belt (inc oil pump belt/water pump and clean out). Ford specialist wasn't much better at £1450. My usual garage didn't want to take it on.
It is a large job with quite a bit of work and parts involved. So unfortunately those prices sound correct, the only positive thing is, it will make the engine survive another 5 or 6 years 😬😬
They were originally advertised as a belt for life as the engine only had a 150k expected life span so was never originally designed to be replaced but that changed at some point but that’s why Ford mainly just replace engines
What was the service history like on this vehicle in regards to oil changes?Only ask as I have a Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost very regular oil changes with the correct spec oil(critical).I am in Australia.Mine has 94,000kms on the odo.
@@hackney7106 same mileage on ours and I'm about to get the belt condition checked. Have done annual oil changes myself but car only does about 5-6k (km) annually and it's coming up 8yr old.
@@petecurran3995 if mine goes,I will just get rid of the it.We only use it as a run around.It’s not our main car.It is in fantastic condition though.Sometimes it does not leave the garage for a week.
Great video folks. These are an absolute pig of an engine to work on. Brother put a head on one recently (would have done a full new engine if he could have gotten one) and even with the right tools it is still giving trouble, electronics complaining about timing 💩
I actually got a locking kit for this type engine & it was only €90 from eBay . Well worth buying just to get it sorted for you. And I’m glad you liked the video George & thank you 🙏🙏
Watched a salvage video on here where they had the 3 cylinder engine that had snapped the engine support off the casing. They had to get a engine refurbishment company to swap cover over as those front crank pully was torque up to a stupid amount and needs specialist tools. Maybe different model number to your engine??
You were very forgiving in your comment about a previous garage who sold this car saying that there was "no belt in there - it was a chain". They either know nothing about this engine or they were just trying a bit of swindling! This is a great engine when new, but after 50,000 miles the belt is often starting to come apart, and a few other problems too - mostly expensive ones!
I don’t actually remember the specific comment, but i do generally feel that life is too short for people to be giving out about each other. We all make mistakes and the best thing we all can do is learn from them, then hopefully not so many of us will makes mistakes or choose to make them 😬😬😬 Happy new year & thank you 🙏🙏
well done peter a slippery job without timing tool locking tools did you have to hold your breath when starting it up or where you confident great job all the same
I think I get that gut wrenching feeling every time I turn the key after a putting a timing belt or chain back. And well you know by the sounds of it paddy 🤣🤣🤣
Great video and this inspired me to change both belts on my daughters fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost after she lost oil pressure. You also don’t need to go mad on timing tool either, I paid just under £70 on one from Amazon and it worked perfectly.
Wow, brilliant information nealblath. And well done to you for tackling it yourself. Did you have much hassle undoing the crank pulley bolt?? It came out easy enough for me but lots of commenter’s are surprised that it did 🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 Not too bad Peter, the timing kit came with a flywheel lock to fit where the starter motor fits. I tried removing pulley bolt with my Makita impact gun but in the end I used my long breaker bar. Used a new stretch bolt to refit, tightened initially to 75Nm and then marked it and tightened it a further 90 degrees, and then a further 10 degrees using breaker bar.
@@nealblath Hope it doesn’t come loose because it’s supposed to be 60nm then 450 degrees 😬 Which is a hell of a lot tighter than you’ve done it. Hence the need for a torque multiplier and the adapter.
great job as always peter. just trying to think why ford is reinventing the wheel here , if it was normal dry belt it be so easy to change because so much room . otherwise these are super little engines ecomical and capable of crazy horse power for a 1 litre
Up to 30% less parasitical frictional losses, part of the reason for the attributes you pointed out. Oil borne contaminants(lack of changes) and/or wrong oil are their downfall,oil flushes and other fanciful additives, which basically contain solvents are a big No too.the newer CT composite is supposed to combat degradation, and it's not just Ford either,Peugeot,vauxhall,honda,VAG..........
@@notpoliticallycorrect1303 don’t change the oil for 5 years & then put in some inexpensive additives to try and repair the damage caused but it just makes it go boom 🤷🏼♂️
Brilliant job and thank you for sharing, not quite sure why the pin in the pulley at 1 o'clock is so important as the flywheel and cams are all marked up? Thanks again. Kind regards Jay
The pin at 1 o clock is to align the crank pulley tone ring for the crank position sensor. So mechanically the engine would be timed up perfectly. But the pulley that the pin goes through is floating & for the electronic side of things to be aligned. Hopefully that makes sense 🤔🤔
Cheers awesome explanation of how it all works but I wonder if you locked the engine with the proper tools now, how far the timing would be out since your marks were made with a streched belt now the new belt will strech some more.
I have bought the locking kit now but could wait for it to arrive on this one. You are correct there will inevitably be a slight discrepancy but will be very slight once you pay good attention to you workmanship, once the car electronics are happy I’m happy. Very observant comment though teeroy 🧐🙏🙏
@@scooby0000 Right oil or not it's known to be a weak engine most car dealers avoid it i wouldn't touch one also they aren't that economical in comparison to other petrol engines that are most reliable.Mazda 2.0 sky activ honda 1.8 VTEC just to name a couple personally i don't get why anyone would buy one unless it was extremely cheap.
The days of simple engines is long gone , last Ford I had was a Cortina 1.6 GXL could do the timing belt in a hour, wont be buying anything with a wet belt.
Brilliant video! Im thinking of having a go at changing my own belt. I’ve done a few timing belts before but never a wet belt. Any idea how long it took you to do? Is it a very time consuming job? Looks to be a lot longer than any other timing belt I’ve done before.
peter this is an excellent piece of work..for so long it was considered a dark art and garages wouldnt entertain a belt change and would try and sell you a reconditioned engine.two questions if you will, firstly i am a home mechanic and have to work in the street ,,would you recommend that and how did you lock the crank to get the pulley off.its 600 nm or thereabouts and ill be using the scaffolding pole and knees and shoulders to break it.cheers again.
It will be hard enough with a lift but by no means impossible. I didn’t actually know that the crank pulley bolt was meant to be so hard to get off & didn’t hold/lock the crank at all on the removal process. As you see in the video the impact gun just rattled away for a few seconds and out it came. When tightening it I just got it as tight as I could with the flywheel locked. Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 how did you lock the flywheel peter ? i cant get my head round how you managed to undo the pulley without some kind of locking tool...was it in gear perhaps ?
@@stewartferguson9774 no it wasn’t even in gearbox. As I said I honestly didn’t think it was going to be hard to remove and done what I would normally do, just put up the air impact gun and pulled the trigger. Once the nut then loosened I lined up my marks again. Now I have seen them very tight on Pajero Jeep’s & similar but not on this 🤷🏼♂️ I have a fiesta 1.0 eco boost with low oil pressure to do next week so I could get caught on this one, I will be recording it too
The total brake failure that my son experienced while coming off the slip road at Junction 10 on the M23 motorway was terrifying and he (and his apprentice) were fortunate not to have been involved in a major accident at this busy junction. The cause of the failure is well documented - the use of the wet belt inside the EcoBoost engine causes delamination over time. Debris from it eventually clogs the pick up pipe and vacuum pump which then fails causing the brake pedal to go hard. The brake pedal simply cannot be depressed to slow the vehicle no matter how hard you try. He is self-employed and relies on his Ford Transit Custom van everyday. It is currently at a Hendy Ford garage awaiting a goodwill gesture from Ford - as it is a few months out of warranty - yet the wet belt was not due to be changed for another 30,000 miles at the earliest.The current estimated cost of the repairs are £1,800! In addition, the failure of the wet belt may have caused damage to the turbo and the cost to replace it would be £1,000 according to Hendy. He has had the vehicle regularly serviced - using the specified oil. Ford have a duty to undertake the repairs - and cover any additional damages resulting from the delamination of the wet belt but they are digging their heels in - offering a fraction of the repair cost.
Wow Paul, that’s a pretty scary story 😬😬 Yes, you would think Ford would cover it by warranty especially if he has documentation to prove servicing with OE oil. It is a little bit of a joke 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
As always a great video Peter…just one thing…the pin you place in the crank pulley…it’s purpose was to establish DTC? I’m just not clear why you used it..
The crank pulley is a floating pulley & the crankshaft position sensor gets its signal from the pulley and not the crankshaft itself. Due to this the pulley has to align back up with the markings on the flywheel. Does that make sense Damien??
@@kennedysgarage3281 ah yes…now I understand..so the crank pulley is playing a key role for the sensor and positioning..hence the necessity to have it spot on 👍🏻
Great vid I'll be doing it on a replacement engine next week as the original failed due to the crap blocking the oil pick up and starving it of oil. Worst design ever! I mean why not use a chain??
Hi John, unfortunately I have this exact car and the engine just failed. Just wondering how the replacement engine went for you and if it’s worth it or not? Thinking about selling as is to avoid the hassle
@@jamieorourke17 hi, the engine swap itself is simple enough. It's a lot of work to do the timing belt but if you dont want the same thing happening to the new engine you have to do it. The hardest part for me was refitting the crankshaft bolt without the pulley spinning with it. Its a one time use stretch bolt that doesn't come with the kit and they are ridiculously tight. Ford recommends a torque multiplier to do the job it's so tight but it can be done. Took me a full day to change the belt with the engine out. If your not keeping it I'd just swap the engine and sell it.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Yeah they call that "eco Boost" engine the "eco Boom" engine. Quite a few problems which all seem to end in total engine destruction 🙈
Fascinating Peter, thanks for all the info. I trained in design engineering 55 years ago. Have always maintained my own cars until we got on to company cars. Now struggling with old age and gravity. This scares the hell out of me because my wife has this model from new. Coming up to 10 years old, dealership serviced but only has 19,000 miles on the clock. Dealership has quoted £1470 for cambelt replacement 🤯 now I can see why. Have asked reputable loca garages for a price and no one has even come back to me. Would you recommend getting it done sooner rather than later? I'm feeling really pissed off with Ford as we're now between a rock and a hard place.....do we sell it (it's like a new car) or chuck nearly £1700 including the service. I guess it'll reflect in the value of the car...... Disgraceful design 🙊🙈. Thanks again Cheers Roj
Hi Roger, I know it is quite an expensive job but well worth doing because replacing your car for a new one could cost up to 10k or 20k So repairing yours could save thousands & as you said it is like new. It is quite a bad design & lots of people very upset over them 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Peter. Agreed, I've just got to bite the bullet, but had decided that over the weekend. The car is ours, one careful owner etc. If we bought anything else it would be unknown. Thanks again for this and your other content. Cheers Roj 👍
You can't beat a good dose of Irish accent🤣 Great video, very interesting absolutely imperative that Castrol APPROVED 5W20 oil is used with these engines to maintain the longevity of the belt
As I have about as much chance of doing this kind of caper as does a potted plant, how could I assure myself the job was done proper? Even that they have used the correct and very specific oil? Grand job by the way - I am in awe.
I think that you have to have a garage that you go to all the time & trust. Personally I send progress videos of my work to the customer & most people really enjoy seeing the work being done on their car. Thanks mate 🙏🙏
I got a lot of grief over cutting that pipe, but the bolts on the joining behind the flexi were welded so it just made common sense to me. Trying not to waste time. And we do quite a lot of weld on a daily basis here, jeep chassis’s, van bodies etc. so welding an exhaust was a simple undertaking. Thanks mate & happy new year 🙏🙏
Can i have that rattle gun please 😛 never been able to get the crank pulley loose on these with a gun, even with a 3/4 breaker they take some cracking , 150,000 miles or ten years, the oil light is now the cambelt warning light 😙
Buddy works at a dealer and he said its the oil pump belt that shreds first then locks the engine up from when the owners keep on driving, that being said….the timing belt is said to be able to last the life expectancy of the engine…when the oil pump belt comes apart and the engine locks up, i guess they were right lol
I’m actually seeing similar on the Mazda 2.2 Skyactive. People say the timing chain fails but the only one that fails is the small oil pump chain. I suppose it is all logical, being smaller it rotates at 3 or 4 times the rate of the bigger one. They are bound to fail first 😉👍👍👍
Bloods boggles my mind why they decided a belt in oil is a good idea... Looks to be a pretty compact engine easy to work on though so they got that right.
Watched Wet Belt on another channel. What’s the crack with them. Manufacturer can go sloppy tolerances. I don’t get it. Why go wet belt over dry and traditional. I’m a car trader of 18 years. I understand the basics of mechanics very basically. A dry belt over a wet unless economies of scale. Am I about right or. Is there a genuine reason go wet and dirty. Maybe I’m too old at 45 get it 😮
@@kennedysgarage3281 Alan Howatt did the video. He also didn’t know !!!!! These scoundrel manufacturers upto no good. No reason for wet over dry. Trade literally cannot answer the Q
They are failing prematurely but I have discovered since recording this video that they believe it can be caused from small amounts of fuel leaking from the high pressure pump. So change the oil regularly 🤔🤔
That's the thing. Either people don't bother to change the oil frequently enough or they use inferior quality oil. These TDI engines are known for getting fuel contamination so it's very important to change it frequently.
@@LA_Commander And as you said the correct quality oil must be used. I heard that the high pressure fuel pump can leak fuel into the oil too, have you encountered this??
@@kennedysgarage3281 I haven't personally, no, but I have heard it from other on YT. So I change the oil more frequently on my Focus ST than other cars which aren't TDI
@@kennedysgarage3281 They were, but suffered with poor maintenance and coolant being old and duff, the overheating and the gasket going. Mine was original and ran perfectly at 200k, not sure how long it last with the next person.
It is recommended at 240,000 kms on Autodata but they are failing early due to incorrect oils & high pressure fuel pump leaks. The oil strainer blocking due to belt degradation is also a big concern, it could cost around €1200 to €1500 to do it. Some real good food for thought, thanks Trevor 🙏🙏👍
My 2015 has 48,000 kms on the clock only. 30,000 miles, mainly open road, not sitting in traffic. Should I get the belt replaced as it's nearly 10 years old ? Thanks in advance. From New Zealand. Just subscribed.
Sorry 😬😬 That’s that old Irish accent 😂😂 A few others have said the same thing, but hopefully it won’t deter you from watching. Even if just for a laugh 😉😂😂
Thanks Kevin, I done this on a little while ago now & my followers have a few questions, so I’m tackling a 2013 fiesta eco boom with no oil pressure soon just to answer their questions. Hopefully it runs off as easy as this one 🤞🤞😬😬
2 rubber belts in oil and both captured. World class engineering Ford. World class!
A bit silly alright. I was just recording another wet belt video on a fiesta today using the locking tool. There is a fair amount of stripping and reassembling but the belt replacement itself is a 5 minute job once in at it 🤷🏼♂️😂😂😂
Most affordable cars are like this now.
@@Aspartame69 correct, they are made out of pure butter 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@Rusty-Metal I can’t find a reason to design a motor that runs a belt in oil…That makes no sense at all.
@@scooby0000Reduce friction so reduced fuel consumption. Increase belt lifetime as it runs in a frictionless environment. This was the theory. The reality is very different.
Brilliant Peter, very informative and well presented. Good old school logic without the need for fancy kit! Well done.
I was stuck with a time dead line & couldn’t get the tooling. But I don’t think I would be buying it after doing myself. There probably isn’t any room for error so just don’t make any 😬😬😂😂
Thanks Shaun 🙏🙏
Fair play to you for doing that without the tools. I’ve probably done 50+ of these wet belts on fiesta focus and transit but we have the tool to do it. The starter motor comes off to lock the flywheel and there’s a small 10mm bolt just above the driveshaft that comes out to put the crank locking pin in and 2 tools to lock the camshafts. Also just one quick point the exhaust can be a pain to weld all the round if you cut it but if you disconnect it from the turbo 4 13mm bolts and the 2 13mm that bolt it to the sump and one 10mm bracket bolt you can pull exhaust out the way without having to cut it. The bolts can snap on the exhaust by the turbo so use plenty of wd or heat if available. Just saves cutting and welding, might be a better way for some ppl. Well done tho very impressed you did it with no timing tools as these have to be spot on to run right. The oil is 5/20 btw, very important as doesn’t deteriorate the belt so much. Ps also use a friction ring when putting the crank pulley back on, it stops everything moving as you tighten the pulley.
Jay I have to say that is a very well worded comment, with plenty of good information in it 🙏🙏🙏
On this vehicle I was under a time restraint and only done without locking tools due to this. I have gotten one since & used it in another video doing a head on one of these.
Also where the exhaust joins close to the steering rack was welded together prior to me, hence the decision to cut the exhaust. Thank you very much 🙏🙏🙏
You did really well mate with no timing tools, the first few I did I used to cut the exhaust but I’m not the best welder and had trouble welding all the way round especially the top so now I just unbolt from where the cat joins the turbo. Great vid mate 👍👍👍
@@Jay-dg6th 😉👍👍
Curious why the FSM calls for the engine to be removed for the job to be performed? Is it due to the exhaust?
@@lynxstarautomotive208 i actually don’t know. I only cut it because it was welded where the pipes bolted together around the steering rack. Saved time messing around 😬😬
Brilliant to see someone using thier head for a change instead of blind faith in the special tools - necessity is the mother of invention !!
Very true Colin, I find a little old fashioned common sense can work wonders 😂😂😂
A job well done, a proper mechanic applying proper teachings. I don't have one of these cars as I don't do Fords, but watched it with interest all the same.
Thank you very much, there can be a little bit too much emphasis on text books and tooling, with not enough emphasis on experience & what should be common sense
🙏🙏🙏👍
I have owned many Ford vehicles. It will be a hard NO for one of these!
Chevy Trax.
That was such an interesting video from a good mechanic, gets the job done. I heard that those Eco boost engines are notorious.
Well done Peter 👍👍👍
Hi Nev, the are notorious for failing. Cylinder heads crack & timing belts degrade all the time. Blocking the oil strainer. Not too many people like that engine 😬😬😬
Thanks for sharing always a pleasure watching a craftsman fully qualified to practice his trade and to train others in it hopefully you get some loyal deciples that appreciate what there being taught
Wow, thank you for such a great comment, I really appreciate that 🙏🙏🙏😉
They 're being taught NOT "there" being taught. :)
This Is how a mechanic gets the job done. I'm proud to say so. There's so many people that make us look bad by being incompetent. But you my friend know your stuff thanks for the help 👍
Are you sure that you are not related to me 🤔we sound very similar 😂😂😂
It really does seem like if the book or computer doesn’t say it , it cannot be done.
Switch on that brain and let’s get to work. 👏👏👏
Sir, it's a pleasure to see how you change the timing belt oldschool type. Well done and keep on with your good work.
I have another Eco boost wet belt replacement video coming soon 😉👍
Great Job Peter - thanks for taking the time to put it all together 👍🏻👍🏻
Your are very welcome Mark & thanks for saying that. Hopefully it will help someday 😉👍👍
Good informative video on how to replace the belts on the notorious eco boost engine. Clear steps on how to time up the inlet and exhaust camshafts and also using the flywheel to make sure the crankshaft is also at TDC on no 1 cycle of course. I'm glad that you also turned the engine over by hand twice to rechecked alignment. I've seen so many novice mechanics just put it back together and turn the key destroying the valves. Turn over by hand and you won't do any damage, and then you can re-align the timing if necessary. Nice job.
Thank you Michael, I’m glad you liked it 🙏🙏🙏
I have bought the correct timing tool since and find it a lot easier, but I haven’t ever bought the torque multiplier for tightening the crank bolt and have done lots of these jobs. I get a big bar and give a good squeeze 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ and it never stirs. I know it to be the wrong process but it works for me 😬
@@SilverSeeker232 Ford say that once the OE recommended oil is used it should last as recommended. But lots of people used oils not suitable for wet belts & the high pressure fuel pumps can often leak slightly and small amounts of petrol can get into the oil causing the belts to prematurely fail 😬😬
@@SilverSeeker232 it just has to be the grade recommended by the manufacturer and not some cheaper grocery store type oil. A lot of commenters have been speaking about the specific details, so it could be a big debate 😂😂😂
@@SilverSeeker232 that is exactly the frame of thought need. There is no straight forward answer on different cars. All of the above are up for debate 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Fantastic reply though 💪💪💪
It's good to see what is involved , I may have to do one myself one day. Never done a wet belt before.
Cheers mate
There is a bit of time involved in them Matt. It would probably be nicer to have the timing tool but easy enough to work around, no bother to a chap like yourself. Thanks for watching Matt 🙏🙏👍
LOve the Allen key idea. A very knowledgeable man. Great to watch.
😂😂 thank you very much Rich 🙏🙏🙏
You sir are a genius. Got mine in a good independent garage at the moment having mine changed, and if they're half as good as you I'll be happy.
They will sort it, there are some great aftermarket garages out there 😉👍👍👍
makes me appreciate my old TDCI with a camchain all the more, the cars 17 years old now and just gets oil and filters, will run it til it blows up.
You sound like a wise man 🙂🙂
The newer stuff is just as soft as hell 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
nice work around without the tools👍 , most Garages would not touch it without the timing tools and a torque multiplier for the crank pulley bolt 🤣.
nice cut on the exhaust btw no messing about with you 💪💯.😜
Thanks for sharing.
I possibly shouldn’t have tackled it but sometimes needs must 🤷🏼♂️
Someone had spot welded the exhaust joining bolts over the steering rack & I wasn’t going there, so hey ho let’s cut it 🤣🤣
Brilliant work again,I've actually one coming up shortly so that is a great insight into what type of job it is,thanks again for sharing 👌👍
Yes, it is nice to see what’s involved before tackling it. Thank you 🙏🙏
Great informative vid Sir..............those wet belts are terrible, thank you for your time
They are an awful design, but most people don’t know this when buying them 😬😬😬
Hi Peter, good video I have done this few of these couple of years ago ( I would say there is one thing you missed that is the washer that goes between crank bolt ) yes when you open there is none but ford mentions about the shim washer that you must install when reinstalling the crank bolt if not the crank will turn as there is no locking notch ) i usually also install a new water pump ring that also goes behind the timing cover as water and oil mixes ( that impact gun was so powerful ) woah 😨 nice work 👍👍
I know about the washer they mentioned it on Autodata but I didn’t have it so I carried on regardless. If it didn’t slip before, it won’t slip now. I changed the seal but didn’t record it 😬
Were you changing the belts due to them failing prematurely or just high mile vehicles ?
And nice to have you back comments 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 couple of them as they had high millage, oh yeah because of oil pressure too ( the belt gets worn it goes all into pick up tube ) very bad engine design ( 3 cylinder ) 👍👍
@@evansmarts775 another commenter said the oil light is the new timing belt replacement interval light 🤦♂️😂😂😂
Cheers Evan 😉👍
Superb walk through Peter. Main take aways are 2 belts need changed and sump off to check and remove debris from pick up. With sump off could just lock the flywheel and just base time the engine
Yes Dave, base timing the camshaft’s and crank is perfect but the only thing to watch for is the crank sensor is getting its signal from the crank pulley & not actually crank position hence the necessity for the crank pulley pin to be inserted at 1 o clock, everything else will work out fine thereafter.
I didn’t know if it would work out ok but I had to chance it & see 😬😬
What a fantastic engine the zetec was. Now we have the Ecoboom quite possibly the worst Ford engine ever. Great vlog thanks.
This engine isn’t Fords best invention alright 🤷🏼♂️😂😂😂
Couldn't see why you had to turn the flywheel twice whe reassembling it. Great job!
@@TheBmw530driver if you rotate the crankshaft or flywheel twice it turn the camshaft and other components once. So 2 turns of the crank rotates the every once. It just gives peace of mind 😉
When the oil pickup has that debris inside, it's best to replace the oil pump assembly. Also replace the water pump while you're in there.
Is the oil pump expensive do you know??
Do they fail like some other Ford oil pumps or just change as a precaution 🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 Honestly, I don't know the price, sorry. It's good to replace as a precaution since you're already taking apart a lot of pieces to get in there.
@@LA_Commander very true 🙏
Ford now do a rebuild kit that comes with everytime you will need to do this job.
The brake down of your video is every in depth. I liked watching
Ford fiesta, eco boost wet belt replacement
th-cam.com/video/YQC1KVNytkg/w-d-xo.html
I recorded this only only recently with locking tools, you might enjoy it 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Kennedy I will go have watch it
‘… the wet belt teeth degrade, blocks the oil filter gauze and then the engine fails..’
That sounds to me like a deliberate design intent. Built-in obsolescence masquerading as a ‘characteristic’ in engine design. Makes you wonder what ‘characteristics’ these manufactures have built in the their ‘environmentally friendly’ electric vehicles.
Very deep thought’s indeed. But yes, we don’t know what is happening in the background 😬😬
Hi, thanks for the video. I changed that belt on 70 000 km in my wife's car and the belt wasn't in a good condition at all. Cheers from Ukraine
Well done mate 💪💪💪
Quite a bit of work in it, but well worth doing 👏👏
great work without the tooling,just as accurate.rubber in oil does not work why the manufacturer still using this idea,brilliant guide from simon
Not the best of ideas 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Probably silly tackling it without locking tool but I can be a bit headstrong like that.
A bit like Scrappy in Scoby doo 😂😂
Ford have switched it to a chain now haha, just shows
@@gamesmaster1060 they must have discovered their bad design flaw 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️👍
Enjoyed the video as it took me back to the 70s when I had to do my own maintenance, the timing marks back then where on the flywheel as standard and also on the cam end pulley,
I wonder why that all changed.
I often wonder the same thing, why they over complicate everything. God only knows 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️ & I’m glad you enjoyed it thank you Jeff 🙏🙏
Usually the engine actually fails before the belt completely strips. Pieces of the belt gather in the oil pump pick up and it’s usually too late before the driver bothers doing anything about their oil light flickering on
That’s right, they call them the ‘Eco boom’ engine 😬😬
I actually show the debris & the cleaning process 😉👍
Happened to me yesterday ffs ford are saying new engine just came on to 80.000 oil light came on then car dies
@@markdugan7803 Ford saying new engine are absolutely correct. Wouldn’t entertain a rebuilt one you’ll have nothing but issues. To fully recondition these it costs pretty much the same as a brand new lump so it’s pointless plus your turbo and vacuum pump will also probably be goosed
This mechanic deserves a medal for his work, using good old logic. Top man.
Dread to think what the total cost of repairing this engine? 😱😱😱
I would scrap that engine, and fit any engine with a cam chain 👍
Hi Nigel, they are not too bad to do. I would advise getting a locking kit, they are only €100 or so. Well worth having & it costs around £1200 or €1400
Excellent information and presentation. Not real keen on wet belt systems.
Thank you Colin, I’m not a big fan of them myself but I’d say the owner was quite lucky to do it & it was ahead of schedule 🤔🤔👍👍
Thank you very much. I always wanted to see the wet belts. Well done. 😁❤
I’m glad you enjoyed it & thank you so much for watching / commenting 🙏🙏👍
I am passionate about mechanics and I also have a ford focus with the same engine. You did a great job and very informative. New subscriber. Greetings from Spain 🍻🍻
Thank you so much & I’m delighted to have you on board. Especially all the way from Spain 🇪🇸
Nice one Peter, that's an adventure! I like your crafty catch nets with those marks etc! 👌🏻
I had it sitting in my garage for best part of a week without ordering a locking tool kit & the when it had to be finished for Friday with no locking kit available, well if I failed I failed but if it worked I hit my deadline of getting the customer back his car 😬😬
So I just took a chance on it and it worked out, the crankshaft ring for the sensor is on the crank pulley & it’s free floating, the first time I have come across this. All’s well that ends well Pete 😂😂😂😂👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 I'll be looking at ours soon.... in for a penny! 🫨
@@petecurran3995 💪💪💪💪👍
The crankshaft pulley bolt should be tightened initially to 60Nm then use a 5:1 torque multiplier 5 x 90 degrees so final torque will be around 300 Nm also ford say to fit a washer shim before refitting the pulley even though their isn't one there originally . Apart from that a very informative and interesting
I saw that about the washer but didn’t get one in the kit 🤷🏼♂️
didn’t have the torque multiplier either so just tightened it as tight as I could & it worked. I sometimes think that manufacturers can over complicate things to scare some technicians away from the job. Sense, logic & experience must sometimes come into play & just get the job done.
Very informative & helpful comment though, thanks Stuart 🙏🙏😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 I always talk to my milwaukee tool.... 2 seconds and it will never come loose again 🤣👌great job. Its a terrible engine to work on. The other brand from France with also a wet belt is for more simple to replace. Greetings from the Netherlands 👌
@@RobertBosch9397 greetings back from Ireland 👋👋
I like your common sense approach & you are correct 2 seconds with a Milwaukee & nothing is coming loose. Thanks Robert 😉😉👍
@@RobertBosch9397 ja toch, niet dan! Van 1 Ford eigenaar naar de ander, het zijn toch ook wel pokken blokken! Dan mag je dat zeggen... Toch?
Actually that 60Nm is with multiplier and that 5 x 90 degree with multiplier too. With conventional tools it's 300Nm + 90°.
Done loads of the 1.0 1.2 psa wet belts heard these had sane issues cracking video done many belts as you say just mark it up ya cant go wrong top video
You sound like a wise man. Experience teaches you what will & what won’t work. And like you I very rarely get caught out. Well done Dave 😉👍👍👍
Another great video thanks Peter. Interesting to see that you cut the exhaust front pipe for speed and easier removal of the sump been known to do the same myself on a few motors over the years. Not had to do a belt on an eco BOOM engine as yet but if I do I will do it your way
What ever it takes Kevin to hit a timeline 😬
All the bolts seemed horrible, driven by my head rather than a book 🙃🙃🙂🙂
Great channel coverage and breakdown of problems shown explation and thinking very good, keep it up, 👍
Thank you George, I’m glad you are enjoying it and I’m delighted to have you on board 🙏🙏🙏
Merry Christmas & a happy new year 🎄🎄
You are a very gifted, talented man.
Good job.
That a nice comment, just trying our best. Thanks Sue 🙏🙏🙏
Hi 👋🏻 I’m no mechanic but I really enjoyed that buddy 👍🏻🏴
That is a good compliment, thank you kind sir 😉🙏🙏🙏
My 1.6 diesel 2015 Astra has a timing chain which is great the only problem it is at the rear of the engine so fun if it ever needs replacing
Quite a lot of manufacturers are doing this lately. Why I could not answer 🤷🏼♂️👍👍
Absolutely amazing and informative video....almost gave me the bollocks to try and do this myself....but upon second thought, I think i'll take it to someone who's actually a qualified mechanic and let them do it 😂
There is quite a lot of stripping involved and a lift would be handy too. But I’m glad you enjoyed the video mate 🙏🙏
Reason for failure is lack of servicing/extended service intervals and dare i say people cheaping out on the oil/incorrect type/grade.
Use the Castrol 5/20 fully synthetic and change it every 6k miles.
All these measures do help. But quite a few commenters have had premature belt failure with dealer service history. BBC watchdog are pushing for a European recall as they did in the States 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281very true mate. Given it is a direct injection engine too I always say the single most important thing you can do to any engine is be mustard on your oil and filter changes, don't cheap out and get the best stuff possible.
Extended service intervals are no good at all.
Nice job BTW mate 😊
Never heard of a belt actually snapping though, have you?
Isn't the recall actually about the tensioner failing on some US engines though, not sure if it effects the European market?
@@tomo870 I haven’t ever encountered one to snap either, only degrade an block the oil strainer. Then run a big end bearing 😬😬😬
There are differences between the American and European engines, the tensioner is why they recalled the American version which isn’t in the European. I guess avoidance is better than acceptance for Ford 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Great video, doing mine today. I put my CAT on last August so I'll just remove the whole thing as I know it will come off easy 😄
The one on mine was welded at the joining so I chose to cut just to avoid someone else’s problem 😬😬
Good luck with it 🤞🤞💪💪
Fantastic! I've just had my 2012 50k miles done. Both belts. No one would take the job on. Had to go to main dealer, two and half day job, £1,600! I'm hoping for another ten years out of it, fingers crossed!
Of course you will get another 10 years, you have peace of mind anyway. Thanks John 🙏👍
Did you know that you can get a new engine fitted by ford for less than 2K and it would have been the uprated engine, did they not tell you this.
@@stevenc5227 No they didn't say. I had the belts done as preventive maintenance, it was running fine, always has done. I've experienced so many belt failures with other vehicles in the past. Only main dealer would do the job. I had to request they did the oil pump belt as well as the cam belt. The vehicle failed less than 100 miles after the job done, dealer said its not their fault, I got it recovered to them at my expense and they returned it to me fixed - they said a pipe had come off. 2k+ miles on, all is good!
@@johnrockley9472 I understand but what i am saying is you could have got a brand new engine fitted for roughly the same price as just the belts on the old engine, and it would have been the new improved engine, without the problems that you will get with the old one. And regular oil changes with the correct oil is also very important for the belts.
@@stevenc5227 Yeah, they never said! ☹️
Pleasure listening to ya 🙂 Great video and one Ecoboost engine saved!
I have another coming soon, fingers crossed it will all go to plan again 🤞🤞
Well done brilliant video very interesting
Luckily it worked out Ken, they say god loves a trier 😬😬👍
Really interesting video. I can see why I am getting a quote for £1600 from Ford to replace the belt (inc oil pump belt/water pump and clean out). Ford specialist wasn't much better at £1450. My usual garage didn't want to take it on.
It is a large job with quite a bit of work and parts involved. So unfortunately those prices sound correct, the only positive thing is, it will make the engine survive another 5 or 6 years 😬😬
Superb video. Such a bad engine design. Not mechanic friendly at all, never mind those bits blocking the oil pick up gauze.
This was my first time doing one of these & definitely not mechanic friendly 🤣🤣
The owner was lucky he done it & it was ahead of schedule 😬😬
They were originally advertised as a belt for life as the engine only had a 150k expected life span so was never originally designed to be replaced but that changed at some point but that’s why Ford mainly just replace engines
What was the service history like on this vehicle in regards to oil changes?Only ask as I have a Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost very regular oil changes with the correct spec oil(critical).I am in Australia.Mine has 94,000kms on the odo.
@@hackney7106 same mileage on ours and I'm about to get the belt condition checked. Have done annual oil changes myself but car only does about 5-6k (km) annually and it's coming up 8yr old.
@@petecurran3995 if mine goes,I will just get rid of the it.We only use it as a run around.It’s not our main car.It is in fantastic condition though.Sometimes it does not leave the garage for a week.
Great video folks. These are an absolute pig of an engine to work on. Brother put a head on one recently (would have done a full new engine if he could have gotten one) and even with the right tools it is still giving trouble, electronics complaining about timing 💩
I actually got a locking kit for this type engine & it was only €90 from eBay . Well worth buying just to get it sorted for you. And I’m glad you liked the video George & thank you 🙏🙏
Watched a salvage video on here where they had the 3 cylinder engine that had snapped the engine support off the casing. They had to get a engine refurbishment company to swap cover over as those front crank pully was torque up to a stupid amount and needs specialist tools. Maybe different model number to your engine??
No, same engine just squeeze the sh-t out of it 🙃🙃
Wow superb work, just proves older techs wnow what there doing when u can't get hold of the tool u need 👏 👌👌✊️✊️👍👍
Older, how dare you Sam 😞😞😞
Only joking, I am getting quite old 😂😂😂
Nice video did you replace the coolant seal on the timing cover
I did Simon but unfortunately I didn’t record it ☹️☹️
You were very forgiving in your comment about a previous garage who sold this car saying that there was "no belt in there - it was a chain". They either know nothing about this engine or they were just trying a bit of swindling! This is a great engine when new, but after 50,000 miles the belt is often starting to come apart, and a few other problems too - mostly expensive ones!
I don’t actually remember the specific comment, but i do generally feel that life is too short for people to be giving out about each other. We all make mistakes and the best thing we all can do is learn from them, then hopefully not so many of us will makes mistakes or choose to make them 😬😬😬
Happy new year & thank you 🙏🙏
well done peter a slippery job without timing tool locking tools did you have to hold your breath when starting it up or where you confident great job all the same
I think I get that gut wrenching feeling every time I turn the key after a putting a timing belt or chain back. And well you know by the sounds of it paddy 🤣🤣🤣
Good content
Being of the old school I’ve done many without tools, never had a fail. 👍
I’m a bit like you, a mechanic evolving into a technician. But do as you said go back to basics quite often, thanks Michael 🙏🙏👍
Excellent video.
Thank you cameron 🙏🙏
Great video and this inspired me to change both belts on my daughters fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost after she lost oil pressure. You also don’t need to go mad on timing tool either, I paid just under £70 on one from Amazon and it worked perfectly.
Wow, brilliant information nealblath. And well done to you for tackling it yourself. Did you have much hassle undoing the crank pulley bolt??
It came out easy enough for me but lots of commenter’s are surprised that it did 🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 Not too bad Peter, the timing kit came with a flywheel lock to fit where the starter motor fits. I tried removing pulley bolt with my Makita impact gun but in the end I used my long breaker bar. Used a new stretch bolt to refit, tightened initially to 75Nm and then marked it and tightened it a further 90 degrees, and then a further 10 degrees using breaker bar.
@@nealblath wow, my one came out very easy so 🙂🙂. The next one might bite me on the bottom, a 2013 fiesta to do next 😬😬
@@nealblath Hope it doesn’t come loose because it’s supposed to be 60nm then 450 degrees 😬 Which is a hell of a lot tighter than you’ve done it. Hence the need for a torque multiplier and the adapter.
Not according to info I got from Honda, there is no way that bolt would’ve gone that far without breaking
great job as always peter. just trying to think why ford is reinventing the wheel here , if it was normal dry belt it be so easy to change because so much room . otherwise these are super little engines ecomical and capable of crazy horse power for a 1 litre
Wouldn’t you wonder, rubber & oil don’t mix very well 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Up to 30% less parasitical frictional losses, part of the reason for the attributes you pointed out. Oil borne contaminants(lack of changes) and/or wrong oil are their downfall,oil flushes and other fanciful additives, which basically contain solvents are a big No too.the newer CT composite is supposed to combat degradation, and it's not just Ford either,Peugeot,vauxhall,honda,VAG..........
@@notpoliticallycorrect1303 don’t change the oil for 5 years & then put in some inexpensive additives to try and repair the damage caused but it just makes it go boom 🤷🏼♂️
Just have to extend the shafts and abb outer belts😅
Brilliant job and thank you for sharing, not quite sure why the pin in the pulley at 1 o'clock is so important as the flywheel and cams are all marked up?
Thanks again.
Kind regards Jay
The pin at 1 o clock is to align the crank pulley tone ring for the crank position sensor. So mechanically the engine would be timed up perfectly. But the pulley that the pin goes through is floating & for the electronic side of things to be aligned. Hopefully that makes sense 🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 thank you my friend 😏
Same as the vauxhall psa 1.2 absolute garbage, great video
Very similar I believe & they fail early too I think 🤔 🤔👍
enjoyed watching that after hearing all the dramas about these wet belt engines. As you say, not for the faint hearted 😂
They aren’t too bad, if taking on one give yourself a day & be fussy with your mark’s. Thanks for taking the time to watch & comment 🙏🙏👍
Done a few of the Transit belts, oil pick-up always has debris and I've seen a few vac pump failures because of the belt debris.
Wow, is the transit one more awkward or equal to the 1.0 ltr
@@kennedysgarage3281 Transits easier, not so much disassembly.
@@du4lc0re handy to know, thanks Paul 🙏🙏
Cheers awesome explanation of how it all works but I wonder if you locked the engine with the proper tools now, how far the timing would be out since your marks were made with a streched belt now the new belt will strech some more.
I have bought the locking kit now but could wait for it to arrive on this one. You are correct there will inevitably be a slight discrepancy but will be very slight once you pay good attention to you workmanship, once the car electronics are happy I’m happy. Very observant comment though teeroy 🧐🙏🙏
Nic video sir
Sir all time your work great👍👍
Thank you again 🙏🙏👍
Mate you are really doing good job enjoy watching your video keep up pls good job mate
Thank you very much, that’s nice encouragement for you to give. I really appreciate that 🙏🙏🙏
An Engine to avoid at all costs.
It seems that way 😂😂😂😂
@@scooby0000 Right oil or not it's known to be a weak engine most car dealers avoid it i wouldn't touch one also they aren't that economical in comparison to other petrol engines that are most reliable.Mazda 2.0 sky activ honda 1.8 VTEC just to name a couple personally i don't get why anyone would buy one unless it was extremely cheap.
That air gun is a beast👍, works M18 brushless impact didn't wanna didn't wanna know, them bolts are tight
Someone said 300Nm so it done well to get it out. It’s a ‘Hazet’ air gun & a great little yoke.
Cheers John 🙏😉
@@kennedysgarage3281 it should have been well over 600nm with all the degrees of angle
The milwaukee impact gun with the high output battery (increases torque upto 50%) buzzed mine like it wasn't even tight!
The days of simple engines is long gone , last Ford I had was a Cortina 1.6 GXL could do the timing belt in a hour, wont be buying anything with a wet belt.
They are long gone Vincent 🤣🤣
Great job ,very well explained and undertaken.
Thank you very much, I actually bought a timing kit from eBay recently for €100. It might come in handy for my next one 👍👍👍🙏
Brilliant video! Im thinking of having a go at changing my own belt. I’ve done a few timing belts before but never a wet belt. Any idea how long it took you to do? Is it a very time consuming job? Looks to be a lot longer than any other timing belt I’ve done before.
It is time consuming enough, it took me around 8 to 10 hours. Just take your time & all should go to plan 🤞🤞👍
Maybe 15 hours for me then. Or a little more. Either way, better than the £950 I got quoted from ford last week.
peter this is an excellent piece of work..for so long it was considered a dark art and garages wouldnt entertain a belt change and would try and sell you a reconditioned engine.two questions if you will, firstly i am a home mechanic and have to work in the street ,,would you recommend that and how did you lock the crank to get the pulley off.its 600 nm or thereabouts and ill be using the scaffolding pole and knees and shoulders to break it.cheers again.
It will be hard enough with a lift but by no means impossible. I didn’t actually know that the crank pulley bolt was meant to be so hard to get off & didn’t hold/lock the crank at all on the removal process. As you see in the video the impact gun just rattled away for a few seconds and out it came. When tightening it I just got it as tight as I could with the flywheel locked. Hopefully this will help 🤞🤞👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 how did you lock the flywheel peter ? i cant get my head round how you managed to undo the pulley without some kind of locking tool...was it in gear perhaps ?
@@stewartferguson9774 no it wasn’t even in gearbox. As I said I honestly didn’t think it was going to be hard to remove and done what I would normally do, just put up the air impact gun and pulled the trigger. Once the nut then loosened I lined up my marks again.
Now I have seen them very tight on Pajero Jeep’s & similar but not on this 🤷🏼♂️
I have a fiesta 1.0 eco boost with low oil pressure to do next week so I could get caught on this one, I will be recording it too
Unbelievable how anybody could design an engine so bad it’s unreal..😳🥺
All cars are like they are made out of Lego these days 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Well actually it's a good engine my Fiesta has 140.000km on it with 0 issue's but i have to get wetbelt replaced soon so it doesn't break on me
@@SASMacDroid they are a relatively good engine but the wet belt is it’s Achilles heel 😞😞
@@kennedysgarage3281 yes i do agree it wouldn't be so bad if it would be easy to swap the wetbelt
@@SASMacDroid the Citroen/Peugeot one is so much easier 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
The total brake failure that my son experienced while coming off the slip road at Junction 10 on the M23 motorway was terrifying and he (and his apprentice) were fortunate not to have been involved in a major accident at this busy junction. The cause of the failure is well documented - the use of the wet belt inside the EcoBoost engine causes delamination over time. Debris from it eventually clogs the pick up pipe and vacuum pump which then fails causing the brake pedal to go hard. The brake pedal simply cannot be depressed to slow the vehicle no matter how hard you try. He is self-employed and relies on his Ford Transit Custom van everyday. It is currently at a Hendy Ford garage awaiting a goodwill gesture from Ford - as it is a few months out of warranty - yet the wet belt was not due to be changed for another 30,000 miles at the earliest.The current estimated cost of the repairs are £1,800! In addition, the failure of the wet belt may have caused damage to the turbo and the cost to replace it would be £1,000 according to Hendy. He has had the vehicle regularly serviced - using the specified oil. Ford have a duty to undertake the repairs - and cover any additional damages resulting from the delamination of the wet belt but they are digging their heels in - offering a fraction of the repair cost.
Wow Paul, that’s a pretty scary story 😬😬
Yes, you would think Ford would cover it by warranty especially if he has documentation to prove servicing with OE oil.
It is a little bit of a joke 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
As always a great video Peter…just one thing…the pin you place in the crank pulley…it’s purpose was to establish DTC? I’m just not clear why you used it..
The crank pulley is a floating pulley & the crankshaft position sensor gets its signal from the pulley and not the crankshaft itself. Due to this the pulley has to align back up with the markings on the flywheel. Does that make sense Damien??
@@kennedysgarage3281 ah yes…now I understand..so the crank pulley is playing a key role for the sensor and positioning..hence the necessity to have it spot on 👍🏻
Absolutely brilliant video, thanks very much.
Great vid I'll be doing it on a replacement engine next week as the original failed due to the crap blocking the oil pick up and starving it of oil. Worst design ever! I mean why not use a chain??
I believe the have reverted back to a chain on the latest engine design 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🙏🙏
Hi John, unfortunately I have this exact car and the engine just failed. Just wondering how the replacement engine went for you and if it’s worth it or not?
Thinking about selling as is to avoid the hassle
@@jamieorourke17 hi, the engine swap itself is simple enough. It's a lot of work to do the timing belt but if you dont want the same thing happening to the new engine you have to do it. The hardest part for me was refitting the crankshaft bolt without the pulley spinning with it. Its a one time use stretch bolt that doesn't come with the kit and they are ridiculously tight. Ford recommends a torque multiplier to do the job it's so tight but it can be done. Took me a full day to change the belt with the engine out. If your not keeping it I'd just swap the engine and sell it.
Thanks for the video. It helps alot. I'm down in South Africa. Just a stupid question. How long did it take? It looks like a whole days work.
It is quite a long job and will take at least 8 hours. It is very doable though 😉👍👍
It's like spending fifty dollars to fix a bic lighter
😂😂😂😂
Really enjoyed this video wow what a huge job but wouldn't want to get a Ford with this engine in though
I glad you enjoyed it, thank you. It is quite a big job & a few Fords are using this wet belt now so be careful 😉🙏🙏
Well done Peter, u have saved at least one from going “Boom”! What a stupid idea, why not a chain?🤪 ford have lost the plot🙈
I see from the comments they go Boom a lot 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks John 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 Yeah they call that "eco Boost" engine the "eco Boom" engine. Quite a few problems which all seem to end in total engine destruction 🙈
Fascinating Peter, thanks for all the info. I trained in design engineering 55 years ago. Have always maintained my own cars until we got on to company cars. Now struggling with old age and gravity. This scares the hell out of me because my wife has this model from new. Coming up to 10 years old, dealership serviced but only has 19,000 miles on the clock. Dealership has quoted £1470 for cambelt replacement 🤯 now I can see why. Have asked reputable loca garages for a price and no one has even come back to me. Would you recommend getting it done sooner rather than later? I'm feeling really pissed off with Ford as we're now between a rock and a hard place.....do we sell it (it's like a new car) or chuck nearly £1700 including the service. I guess it'll reflect in the value of the car...... Disgraceful design 🙊🙈. Thanks again Cheers Roj
Hi Roger, I know it is quite an expensive job but well worth doing because replacing your car for a new one could cost up to 10k or 20k So repairing yours could save thousands & as you said it is like new.
It is quite a bad design & lots of people very upset over them 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks Peter. Agreed, I've just got to bite the bullet, but had decided that over the weekend. The car is ours, one careful owner etc. If we bought anything else it would be unknown. Thanks again for this and your other content. Cheers Roj 👍
@@rogergowers4415 you are most welcome Roj 🙏🙏
You can't beat a good dose of Irish accent🤣
Great video, very interesting
absolutely imperative that Castrol APPROVED 5W20 oil is used with these engines to maintain the longevity of the belt
😂😂😂 you’ll get plenty of that with me 🙂🙂
As I have about as much chance of doing this kind of caper as does a potted plant, how could I assure myself the job was done proper? Even that they have used the correct and very specific oil? Grand job by the way - I am in awe.
I think that you have to have a garage that you go to all the time & trust. Personally I send progress videos of my work to the customer & most people really enjoy seeing the work being done on their car.
Thanks mate 🙏🙏
This is why wet belts are a terrible idea, only a chain should be getting doused in engine oil, not rubber belts lol
I agree totally 🙏🙏👍
I love the video. How did you repair the exhaust pipe you cut through?
I got a lot of grief over cutting that pipe, but the bolts on the joining behind the flexi were welded so it just made common sense to me. Trying not to waste time. And we do quite a lot of weld on a daily basis here, jeep chassis’s, van bodies etc. so welding an exhaust was a simple undertaking.
Thanks mate & happy new year 🙏🙏
Can i have that rattle gun please 😛 never been able to get the crank pulley loose on these with a gun, even with a 3/4 breaker they take some cracking , 150,000 miles or ten years, the oil light is now the cambelt warning light 😙
The impact gun is a small body Hazet gun, I don’t know the output of it but it is quite strong in tight spots. This car had around 90,000 mls 🤔🤔👍
Buddy works at a dealer and he said its the oil pump belt that shreds first then locks the engine up from when the owners keep on driving, that being said….the timing belt is said to be able to last the life expectancy of the engine…when the oil pump belt comes apart and the engine locks up, i guess they were right lol
I’m actually seeing similar on the Mazda 2.2 Skyactive. People say the timing chain fails but the only one that fails is the small oil pump chain. I suppose it is all logical, being smaller it rotates at 3 or 4 times the rate of the bigger one. They are bound to fail first 😉👍👍👍
One lesson is to avoid owning one !
😂😂😂
Bloods boggles my mind why they decided a belt in oil is a good idea... Looks to be a pretty compact engine easy to work on though so they got that right.
I believe that is just about the only benefit of it 😂😂😂👍
THAT'S A JOB I WILL BE AVOIDING BY ALL MEANS , THANKS FOR YOUR TIME !!!!
It’s not too bad just time consuming, it would be no bother to you 💪💪
Great work Peter! Just wondering. I know the belt change was a `5 min' job, but, approx. how long did it take from beginning to end?
@@shill6449 the complete job will take approximately 8 hrs. Good luck with it mate 😉🤞🤞
Watched Wet Belt on another channel. What’s the crack with them. Manufacturer can go sloppy tolerances. I don’t get it. Why go wet belt over dry and traditional. I’m a car trader of 18 years. I understand the basics of mechanics very basically. A dry belt over a wet unless economies of scale. Am I about right or. Is there a genuine reason go wet and dirty. Maybe I’m too old at 45 get it 😮
I’m 46 and I must be in the same category because I don’t know why on earth they do it 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
43 here...same question! :))
@@kennedysgarage3281 Good job! Elegant solution for the timming.
@@kennedysgarage3281 Alan Howatt did the video. He also didn’t know !!!!! These scoundrel manufacturers upto no good. No reason for wet over dry. Trade literally cannot answer the Q
@@alexdragomirescu5084 it worked for me but only because I was under a time restraint 😬😬
Great vid and info.... btw that's a Ribe key.
🙏🙏🙏
So belt can't last even if oil mentanance is good..
They are failing prematurely but I have discovered since recording this video that they believe it can be caused from small amounts of fuel leaking from the high pressure pump. So change the oil regularly 🤔🤔
That's the thing. Either people don't bother to change the oil frequently enough or they use inferior quality oil. These TDI engines are known for getting fuel contamination so it's very important to change it frequently.
@@LA_Commander And as you said the correct quality oil must be used.
I heard that the high pressure fuel pump can leak fuel into the oil too, have you encountered this??
@@kennedysgarage3281 I haven't personally, no, but I have heard it from other on YT. So I change the oil more frequently on my Focus ST than other cars which aren't TDI
I loved the 1.8 k series in my 75, worked perfectly for 200,000+ miles and the belt could be changed in 30mins🙂
Weren’t they great 💪💪💪
@@kennedysgarage3281 They were, but suffered with poor maintenance and coolant being old and duff, the overheating and the gasket going. Mine was original and ran perfectly at 200k, not sure how long it last with the next person.
Great job Peter quite a big job, i own one of these a 2014 with 64k on the clock, do you know at what milage i should change the belts ?
It is recommended at 240,000 kms on Autodata but they are failing early due to incorrect oils & high pressure fuel pump leaks.
The oil strainer blocking due to belt degradation is also a big concern, it could cost around €1200 to €1500 to do it.
Some real good food for thought, thanks Trevor 🙏🙏👍
My 2015 has 48,000 kms on the clock only. 30,000 miles, mainly open road, not sitting in traffic. Should I get the belt replaced as it's nearly 10 years old ? Thanks in advance. From New Zealand. Just subscribed.
I would recommend replacing it. Simply due to a time related replacement interval & thanks subscribing 🙏🙏
Wow, thank goodness for closed captioning. I can understand maybe every third word. LOL
Sorry 😬😬
That’s that old Irish accent 😂😂
A few others have said the same thing, but hopefully it won’t deter you from watching. Even if just for a laugh 😉😂😂
@@kennedysgarage3281 I appreciate your sense of humor, and being able to laugh at yourself. I lift a Jameson on the rocks to you. 😀
@@joeblowe7545 that sounds quite nice 🍻. That could turn into more than just 1 😬😬 &
I hope your head wasn’t too bad today
Very informative and well presented.
Thanks Kevin, I done this on a little while ago now & my followers have a few questions, so I’m tackling a 2013 fiesta eco boom with no oil pressure soon just to answer their questions. Hopefully it runs off as easy as this one 🤞🤞😬😬