Hello, Glad to have found your channel! I own a 1967 Nuffield 4/65...I have had it for 7 years now...It worked well in the past but I have been having some issues lately specifically with the diesel pump...With your video I will service that pump tomorrow...;-).....P.S. I live in Québec Canada..keep posting those videos.
I bought an old ford engine generator, well serviced except for the injector pump, first time I noticed it I changed the oil, also they couldn't get it started but the rack inside the pump needed a bit of CRC to get it sliding, then it ran, 35kva, 1200 hours, bought it for $700AU at auction.
I checked the oil level on my Ford 5000 and the reservoir was empty. I filled to check plug with engine oil. The engine starts easily and idles nicely, but it starts to miss with white smoke when given more throttle. After it warms up (10 minutes, approx) it seems to run okay. Had an injector replaced recently. Don't know if it's a pump problem or compression.
It’s really difficult to guess these problems. You have to start with a compression test, then test all injectors, pump timing. Even if you have pump timing correct it’s worth trying it a few degrees either way to see if that improves things.
Hello Monty, great vid very educational. What would you think of adding a feed line and orifice to continually fill the pump/governor, it could be fed off main gallery and reduced with an orifice maybe .050". the overflow could be routed back to sump. There are a few engines both tractor and industrial with very similar pump/gov set ups. The most common failure I've seen is leakage either internal or external which leaves the pump starving for lubrication.
Yes I have seen it done ( not on Nuffields) there is a plug in the block wall below the pump for the return. Early BMC engines had a oil feed to the vacuum pump mounted in front of the injector pump but I have no idea of the orifice size but I think at 50 psi oil pressure .050" would be to big.
@@montegosonThanks for prompt reply, I guessed at .050" for fear anything smaller might plug too easily unless filtered with a small maybe 2 micron filter which would be an overall benefit to boot
Hi there. Tried to start my 4/65 and it hasnt been running for 15 years. Except for a 5 min run 4 years ago. It wont now. I har a nicely loose fuelrack before the first attempt. But after turning over a couple of revs the rack is now tight and will hardly move back and forth. Have I perhaps scored something in the plunger/cylinders? Should I start out with a cleanout and disassemble the pump elements? Or any other suggestions? Thanks. Simon, Denmark.
All the components must be kept in sets, for the cylinders they relate to, and do not slacken the clamps on the square fuel rail. Other than that you can disassemble and reassemble the pumping elements.
@@montegosonthank u. Have taken the injector pipes off. Cylinder 1 and 4 is fine. Cylinder 2 piece has moved slightly on the square shaft- therefor I suspect that its nr 3 that is the problem. Do they come out upwards, plunger and pistons. I might have to remove injectors too. Do they have their own injector jackets or sit in the head wo jackets. ? Thanks for your reply:)
I have a universal 4 with the older style pump with vacuum governor. Over the last couple years the tractor has developed a fault that it won't maintain engine speed very well. The engine will never stall when put under load but the rpm can go right down to idle. When load removed it will slowly build up to set engine speed. I have had the diaphragm off and the rubber was split in multiple places. Thinking I found the fault and replaced the diaphragm. But I has made no difference at all. With the new diaphragm it will suck etc on the pipes and blocking the pipes with your finger will hold the rack so I believe there to be no pin holes in the pipes. Any ideas thanks.
Take off the air pipes from pump to butterfly and check they are clear ( check the air passages in the butterfly are clear also). After that start with the filter in the bottom of the tank and work through the system. Have you watched this video? th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=1jTPNIPg-Dk
grate video just wondered if you could help me my dads got a dm4 Nuffield and when shes on the road it just wonders and its hard to keep it in a strait line just wondered if you knew how to stop this, and also I'm thinking about getting a Nuffield for myself what would be the best one to get to do the odd bit of topping and road runs. cheers, George
Hi, I prefere the 10/60's but failing that get one with livedrive. As for your dad's steering I stock reconditioned steering boxes and axle beams and also manufacture A frames. It all depends where the wear is.
montegoson thanks getting back to me I'll tell him that and I'll keep my eye out now what sort of price would I be looking at for a decent Nuffield I'm not up on prices as I usually have Fergies
Hello, Glad to have found your channel! I own a 1967 Nuffield 4/65...I have had it for 7 years now...It worked well in the past but I have been having some issues lately specifically with the diesel pump...With your video I will service that pump tomorrow...;-).....P.S. I live in Québec Canada..keep posting those videos.
The seized fuel pump on my JCB 3C brought me here.Great video and well explained.Bet the fuel pump in the JCB never got serviced 😢
@@jimbomacintyre People are not aware that it contains oil and needs servicing.
Agree, change often even more important now when diesel oil is dryer than in the old days.
I bought an old ford engine generator, well serviced except for the injector pump, first time I noticed it I changed the oil, also they couldn't get it started but the rack inside the pump needed a bit of CRC to get it sliding, then it ran, 35kva, 1200 hours, bought it for $700AU at auction.
I checked the oil level on my Ford 5000 and the reservoir was empty. I filled to check plug with engine oil. The engine starts easily and idles nicely, but it starts to miss with white smoke when given more throttle. After it warms up (10 minutes, approx) it seems to run okay. Had an injector replaced recently. Don't know if it's a pump problem or compression.
It’s really difficult to guess these problems. You have to start with a compression test, then test all injectors, pump timing. Even if you have pump timing correct it’s worth trying it a few degrees either way to see if that improves things.
@@montegoson Thanks for the reponse. Do you have a link that shows how to check pump timing?
Hello Monty, great vid very educational.
What would you think of adding a feed line and orifice to continually fill the pump/governor, it could be fed off main gallery and reduced with an orifice maybe .050". the overflow could be routed back to sump. There are a few engines both tractor and industrial with very similar pump/gov set ups. The most common failure I've seen is leakage either internal or external which leaves the pump starving for lubrication.
Yes I have seen it done ( not on Nuffields) there is a plug in the block wall below the pump for the return. Early BMC engines had a oil feed to the vacuum pump mounted in front of the injector pump but I have no idea of the orifice size but I think at 50 psi oil pressure .050" would be to big.
@@montegosonThanks for prompt reply, I guessed at .050" for fear anything smaller might plug too easily unless filtered with a small maybe 2 micron filter which would be an overall benefit to boot
Hi there.
Tried to start my 4/65 and it hasnt been running for 15 years. Except for a 5 min run 4 years ago.
It wont now. I har a nicely loose fuelrack before the first attempt. But after turning over a couple of revs the rack is now tight and will hardly move back and forth. Have I perhaps scored something in the plunger/cylinders?
Should I start out with a cleanout and disassemble the pump elements? Or any other suggestions?
Thanks. Simon, Denmark.
All the components must be kept in sets, for the cylinders they relate to, and do not slacken the clamps on the square fuel rail.
Other than that you can disassemble and reassemble the pumping elements.
@@montegosonthank u.
Have taken the injector pipes off.
Cylinder 1 and 4 is fine.
Cylinder 2 piece has moved slightly on the square shaft- therefor I suspect that its nr 3 that is the problem.
Do they come out upwards, plunger and pistons. I might have to remove injectors too. Do they have their own injector jackets or sit in the head wo jackets. ?
Thanks for your reply:)
Its running again now. Thanks
Hello I have a tractor I thinking this same model the slide rail for the fuel shot off moves only one way is there mayb a broken linkage
My knowledge doesn’t go that far.
Is This type of injector pump the same, as on a DM4?? I don't see any drain/fill screw on my Simms pump 😊
No, fill and drain screws seem to be missing on earlier pumps 🤔
@@montegoson so there's no engine oil on these pump's? is the lubrication system different on the pump's on earlier models?
@@madslarsen9602 Yes they need to have oil in them, just doesn’t seem to be an obvious way of filling them.
@@montegosonalright! And Thank you for your time and videos 😃
hi tell me cornrod for this vintage tractor are now in which tractor now
@@isomapsa1547 I’m not understanding the comment, are you looking for a Conrod?
I also have a Niutffilf460 tractor on which bag of oil in the pump of infection?
same on David brown 3 cyl? the pump is vertical
@@willdatsun No that’s a different pump
@@montegoson ah you are right it is a CAV. It looks like it has an oil feed pipe
What oil is used in the pump and also the engine?
Just a basic mineral oil. API spec CC or higher, most people use STOU universal oil nowadays. Same oil for engine and injector pump.
@@montegoson thank you.
I have a universal 4 with the older style pump with vacuum governor. Over the last couple years the tractor has developed a fault that it won't maintain engine speed very well. The engine will never stall when put under load but the rpm can go right down to idle. When load removed it will slowly build up to set engine speed. I have had the diaphragm off and the rubber was split in multiple places. Thinking I found the fault and replaced the diaphragm. But I has made no difference at all. With the new diaphragm it will suck etc on the pipes and blocking the pipes with your finger will hold the rack so I believe there to be no pin holes in the pipes. Any ideas thanks.
Take off the air pipes from pump to butterfly and check they are clear ( check the air passages in the butterfly are clear also). After that start with the filter in the bottom of the tank and work through the system. Have you watched this video? th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=1jTPNIPg-Dk
grate video just wondered if you could help me my dads got a dm4 Nuffield and when shes on the road it just wonders and its hard to keep it in a strait line just wondered if you knew how to stop this, and also I'm thinking about getting a Nuffield for myself what would be the best one to get to do the odd bit of topping and road runs. cheers, George
Hi, I prefere the 10/60's but failing that get one with livedrive. As for your dad's steering I stock reconditioned steering boxes and axle beams and also manufacture A frames. It all depends where the wear is.
montegoson thanks getting back to me I'll tell him that and I'll keep my eye out now what sort of price would I be looking at for a decent Nuffield I'm not up on prices as I usually have Fergies
A 10/60 needing work can be around £1000 and up to around £2,500 for a cracking example
ok thanks for that are you taking anything to Malvern show ?
Not taking a tractor, just a few bits to go in the auction. I'm not far from you just near Leicester if you need a steering box
Hi, will be changing the oil on the injector pump on my 10 60 soon, could you tell me what oil goes into it?
The same as what you put in the engine.
Hi! Can you explain how can I montage power steering pump to bmc nuffield?
montage?
@@montegoson yes
@@montegoson I I mounted with the strap but I don't like it
@@yusufbilge1849 I do not understand the question. Guessing you are using google translate?
@@montegoson I want power steering to my bmc nuffield tractor Where can I install a pump? Can you help me?
Gardaş.....bizim 10 60 1968 model....5. Vitesten atıyor...bir video çeksen..
Hi is that a home built hydrostatic steering.?
Yes, I now have bespoke ram mounted across the axle. Look for it on my other videos or on the Leyland forum. Full description and many photos
On a 465 nuffield do I have to set timing on the injector pump
www.thenuffieldandleylandtractorclub.co.uk/wp/wp-content/themes/nuffield/images/MiniMec%20Pump%20Timing.pdf
ok thanks. do you have any instructions to remove the injector pump
No sorry.
Very good
I have a 10/60 in Manitoba Canada ! very rare tractors here!
Not as rare as you think. Over on the forum we have many members from Ontario. leyland.conforums.com/index.cgi
Have you seen all my other Nuffield repair videos on "Montegoson"
Their is a lot more British built tractors in Ontario,in western Canada they are pretty rare, I have just seen 4 or 5 in the past 10 years
Fuck, whay video is taken 3 meter a way??
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