Is the Bambulab P1S the Best Printer for $699?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ม.ค. 2024
- Chuck shows you the results he's getting with his Bambulab P1S 3D Printer and how it compares to his Creality K1 Max as he prints some custo designed Snap Circuit Bases for his Electronics.
Video Sponsored by: www.pcbway.com
Snap Circuits Base File: thangs.com/file/994938
Snap Circuits 100 Kit: amzn.to/42bKYvJ
Snap Circuits 300 Kit: amzn.to/3S65LMO
Snap Circuits 500 Kit: amzn.to/3OzcRZl
K1 Max: shrsl.com/4avrb
K1: shrsl.com/4avrc
Ender 3 V3 SE: shrsl.com/4avrd
Ender 2 Pro ($99): shrsl.com/4avrg
K1 Max Side Spool Holder:
thangs.com/file/948987
Filament Friday Tool Kit:
amzn.to/2MOR00X
Buy - Filament Friday E-Leveler 2:
amzn.to/3qUl80A
(Original version: amzn.to/3qEr2mw)
How to Use the E-Leveler 2: www.chepclub.com/e-leveler2.html
********* Ender Style Cura Profiles Download Links: *******
Best (0.12) : thangs.com/file/1075768
Good (0.20) : thangs.com/file/1075769
Extra Fast (0.28) : thangs.com/file/1075772
Hyper Fast (0.32) : thangs.com/file/1075773
TPU thangs.com/file/1075775
**** Support the Channel *****************
Patreon: / elproducts
Thangs: than.gs/u/240257
Direct Via Paypal: www.paypal.me/elproducts
Shop at MatterHackers.com and automatically donate at no cost to you: bit.ly/1Ugcijp
***** Tools *****
T - Handle Allen Wrench Set: amzn.to/3MBBv8i
Nozzle Removal Tool:
Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3u6ncm7
Premium Version with Rubber Grip: amzn.to/3qPs3pB
1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
***** Popular Prints:
CHEP Cube Test Print: thangs.com/file/21739
CHEP PTFE Cutter Tool: thangs.com/file/23507
CHEP Pawn: thangs.com/file/29643
Direct Support through PayPal donation:
www.paypal.me/elproducts
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends and get 5% off your purchase:
www.sliceengineering.com/chep
************************************
***Creality Ender 3 Parts/Upgrades ****
Ender 3 Glass Bed:
Amazon: amzn.to/3tYea7m
Replacement Nozzles for CR10/Ender 3:
amzn.to/2m39K1y
X-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/38BKbYP
Y-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/2PhOdhi
Chuck's Favorite EZR Extruder:
bit.ly/2rlKCpp
Creality 8-bit Silent Stepper Board: amzn.to/2YPM0Nh
Cap Tubes & Couplings: amzn.to/2Vf8BCf
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2m39K1y
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/3sfDG7s
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
Temperature Meter Used in Videos: amzn.to/2JpUJOC
Screwdriver set used in Videos: amzn.to/2PbWocM
Creality Ender 3 Upgrade Package (Extruder, Silent Board & Capricorn Tubing): bit.ly/2MNvmcs
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
It says use glue in this area, not all over the bed.
This smooth surface plates are amazing, just clean and wipe them with the rough side of a dishwashing sponge.
All traces of previous prints will disappear.
Keeps prints at 60°C every time.
But it doesn’t specify that. It just says:
“Please Apply Glue Before Print”.
So you can see how I assumed the whole bed.
I did go without glue for a few prints but then began having issues so I followed what I thought was their directions.
@@FilamentFriday Not sure how old your K1 Max is... my one has the nice buildplate straight out the box. So Idk... you might have a very old one.
@@InfinityDronesnever had any issues with my p1s - I’m never going back to creality personally
@@jasonsaunders01 I know a lot of folks like Bambu. They remind me of the Apple of 3D printing... Pricey, closed ecosystem and software, stylish and popular status symbols, and YES, they generally tend to work pretty well. And I can appreciate that this is an experience that lots of people want, but the fact that everything is locked down just rubs me wrong. That was the reason that the only Apple device I've ever purchased was an iPhone that I kept for about 8 months, dumped it, went to Android and never looked back. I've also owned Prusa and Monoprice hardware, and I just feel like Creality has the best support community out there BECAUSE of the openness of their equipment and software. To each their own, though. Just like Apple, I have to acknowledge that Bambu makes solid equipment. It's just not for me.
@@IanTheWoodchuck I've actually mentioned the similarity to crApple in a few different places, and while I'm definitely not a fan of that business model either, like he mentioned in the video, they do seem to be opening up a lot more as of late, so let's hope that Trend continues. I don't necessarily see them becoming full open source, butt it'll definitely be nice if they do decide to make their printers significantly easier to customize; while, ofc, maintaining that "works out of the box" structure for those that just wish to use it as is. I realize that's the ideal situation, but we'll just have to wait and see what they do
Watching this video now, I have both a K1 and a P1S, along with my P1P. I got to say I like the K1, but I love my P1P and P1S. It's one of those things where I spend more time modeling than screwing around trying to make sure the printer works.
I also got a Bambu P1S for Christmas and I am so happy with it. My hobby time is now spent doing fun things with the printer instead of trying to figure out how to make the printer work properly.
Short answer: Yes. The P1S is an absolutely amazing machine.
Yeah hard to keep ignoring them if they are going to throw an olive branch to the open source (and make sure I don’t need to have it always online).
For Creality: Get Chuck on the phone and do whatever he says. He’s made more sales than any of your employees over the last 5 years.
I hope there will still be videos on your channel about other manufacturers than just Bambu Lab. Some TH-camrs seem to have completely jumped on the Bambu Lab hypetrain and are making as many Bambu Lab related videos as possible to generate clicks. This results in videos like "5 tips for Bambu Studio" or "Which Bambu Lab printer is the right one for you" or "I printed this on my Bambu Lab printer". And my start page on youtube is full of channels with timelapses from their Bambu Lab printer. I'm honestly getting tired of it.
I feeel the same.
One thing that is not really clear to me is this quote from the Bambu Lab blog. (The Firmware R is the firmware that will allow one to root the printer) "Future official Bambu Lab firmware releases after firmware R will have new security measures applied to prevent rooting, and we will no longer provide solutions for rooting the new versions of the firmware."
To me, this means that only now in the BL timeline will a user be able to root the printer. So what will happen to a future new Bambu Lab customer in, say, 8 months? If they buy a new printer it will most like come with the newer firmware that "will have new security measures applied to prevent rooting". So they won't be able to root?
Am I reading this wrong?
Makers Muse uses a sheet of G10 garolite for his print bed, it’s cheaper than pei and works well.
I have a K1 Max to print out superhero helmets in one piece fast for the kids, something the p1s can’t really do so I’m happy with it 😊
Also, I have switched to a textured PEI plate for my K1 and it makes a huge difference, I don't use glue stick on anything on that printer
I plan to try that next. Which brand did you buy?
@@FilamentFriday I'll send you the link on Patreon
After printing ABS for the first time on my new K1 Max, I noticed kind of a “bubble” on the printbed - it was not much, but you could feel it with our fingers. So some prints later - and the use of gluestick - this bubble popped open an the coating began to peel of the metal 😡.
So I ordered a „cheap“ textured plate and an original from creality on Amazon - both work much better without ANY glue on it, cheap or original, both perform equal - and after dozens of prints, just wipe them with „Glas-cleaner“ and everything is fine…
I got into 3d printing to support my electronics hobby and it ended up taking over my spare time too.
Try a PEI plate on the K1 Max. I had to purchase one for my ender 3 v3 ke because of similiar problems.
I used Creality Enders for years for my small business. I was always repairing and tweaking them. I eventually decided to get a X1C and I never looked back. They print so well and reliably. Their functionality and their workflow have definitely allowed me to increase prototyping and production.
Very interesting indeed! Thanks, Chuck! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
🎉 one of us one of us 😂awsome you finally got one can’t wait for your profiles you will be releasing on all my Creality machines I lived by your profiles
Great video Chuck!😊
I also bought a p1s for myself for Christmas. Also incredibly blown away by it - just unreal how great it works
Hi Chep, I own all of the Creality 3D printers including the K1, and the K1 Max. I never use glue sticks and additionally print in various filaments. The secret to having a very good adhesion is you want to make sure that your bed plate is completely oil free. What happens, as you reach the building plate with your hands, over time this plate becomes to get gunked up with oils and thus makes that area of molten plastic separate around the edges of prints. I like to use a good degrease dish soap, and soak and scrub with a sea sponge my plates and let them drip dry. BTW, I have more than one plate per machine, and while I am printing on one plate others are being prepped wash and dried. Finally, I never use glue sticks or don’t have any issues with curling or problems with prints adhering to the plate.
Great video!
Thanks for your work as always Chep, I'm really enjoying watching your content! I own the P1S myself and it has been sooOOoo good as a newcomer to 3D printing, I have been printing left right and center and it just works! Interestingly I come from an electrical background myself and 3D printing is a means to an end, but I would like to see a bit more content on the subject, be it for kids to adults, beginners to experienced. Cheers!
Love your videos! I’d def like to see more electronics on the channel too
Once you pair it with the AMS even if you're printing single color, you will tend to add more AMS. Almost hands-off operation, auto refill (filament backup), filament storage and more..
I threw the original K1 plate over my shoulder and made a wish. I replaced it with a textured "gold" PEI plate and neve use adhesive. I do agree that K1 struggles with a perfect first layer and it seems like a FW tweak should make it better - all of the hardware is there to make it happen. Layers after that are fine.
Welcome to the Family Chuck! once you have a bambu Labs printer you notice its amazingly fast and the quility of the prints are superior to just about anything in its class. Now I'm just waiting on the next release of the larger build plate which will most likely come out in 2024 its the only thing missing from the line up. Happy Printing!
Mine broke today 😢sending it back .. hard to work on .. loved it when it worked.
Love my P1S! Would love to see more electronics vids and projects too!!!
Thanks for the feedback
Have you heard if there are any discussions from Bambu regarding whether there may be a larger printer in the works?
I've never applied glue to my k1 max build plate and everything sticks great. I also got Best Buy to price match Micro Center's price of $699. Great deal for that price.
I didn’t know Best Buy has the K1s
Best Buy by me doesn’t.
@@FilamentFriday Same here, no Best Buy around me has it. I wish they did though.
@@vLEXLUTHORv Best Buy just recently started carrying Creality stuff. They don't currently keep anything in stock, but they will special order and price match the stores they have listed on their price match info page including Micro Center. They offered me free delivery to my residence or pick up in-store. The best part is that I live in Alaska. I went to customer service, they looked it up in their system and 5 minutes later I had one ordered and on its way for $699!
@@FilamentFriday Best Buy just recently started carrying Creality stuff. They don't currently keep anything in stock, but they will special order and price match the stores they have listed on their price match info page including Micro Center. They offered me free delivery to my residence or pick up in-store. The best part is that I live in Alaska. I went to customer service, they looked it up in their system and 5 minutes later I had one ordered and on its way for $699!
I love the idea of snap circuits. I need to get some for my grandmonsters.
I got here for your 3d printing guides . But would love to learn some eltrionics
For the price the p1s had been the best 3d printer I've used in the last 8 years. Just works every time
Been using the A1 for a few weeks now and hasn't missed a beat not 1 failed print even with 4 year old filament wish it was here 4 years ago
I treated myself to an X1-C for my Birthday/Christmas. (December baby, what can I say?) I have fallen in love. It does the same work in the same time as my 2 enders. And it makes prettier prints, and handles color change automatically. Plus it TELLS me when it runs into trouble.
oreded a p1 s a couple of weeks ago , now its just a waiting game . hopefully will be here in about 2 weeks. going to be my first forte into 3d printing. Being an auto tech I love tinkering !
I still haven't taken my first foray into 3D printing yet, but plan to soon.
Chep, I bought mine at Christmas as well. P1S. I’ve had Ender 3s and. Prussa Mini for years but this beats them all. I hooked it up and printed an almost perfect Benchy first thing. There are a few quirky things I’m still learning but I’ve done 20 plus prints each about 3 hrs and have had virtually no issues. The AMS feeding on cardboard spools is the biggest issue. But for ease of use and great auto bed leveling you can’t be wrong getting one. Do I need to give you back your Ender bed leveling tool you gave me at MRRF?? ( Tim from Southfield. )
The stock build plates on most Creality printers are atrociously bad. You gotta get rid of those and get a proper PEI texture plate, I don't think I even did a single print on my K1's stock plate before I tossed it for a decent plate. P1S is a wicked machine though, but it was WAY outta my budget. Anyway, textured PEI is the way, and any printer that ships without one gets it replaced with one first thing.
Thanks CHEP. I would like to see more electronics on the channel.
Thank you for the feedback.
My k1 max had same issue til I got a better plate, I now can print a full plate with no issues wham bam plates works great. Well thank you for the info commercial 7 minutes long
Wonder if a textured build plate would help with the K1 Max bed adhesion?
I'd love to see more electronics!
Been following you for a while now (on our personal account). Thanks for this video. We have been looking at the Bambu X1 Carbon for our business. Cool to hear you like your Bambu P1S.
Love that you will be covering circuits.
We are in Michigan too. It hasn't been cold... it's been bitter cold. Let us know if we can help you out with any projects in the future. We have a CO2 laser, hot wire cnc, and RC parts. We love to support education.
Would love to see more on the p1sni also had one of these for Christmas and wow it's amazing compared to my ender 3v2 . Maybe a fusion 360 tutorial
Chep, you are a hardcore cura pro guy. Did you found a way to to work with cura then print it on the P1S?
No, I use Bambi or orca for p1s
I own two P1S four A1’s four A1 mini’s and four K1’s. I print primarily smaller PLA, PETG and TPU parts and In my opinion the A1 is a better printer than P1S. The A1 is slightly slower than P1S but the print quality is way better.
Also with the flow calibration and easy nozzle change, the A1 blows away the P1S especially at the $399. price. Plus they are super quiet compared to P1S. I can watch a TV in a room with eight machines running!
Also the AMS lite is easy to use however I had to make adapters to hold certain spools in place on top mounted AMS.
As I expand it will be A1’s or Mini’s and NOT P1S.
I got rid of the sheet that came with my K1 (not max) and replaced with a textured PEI almost immediately.
It would be interesting to see a visualization comparison of the bed matrixes.
A 1000$ machine requiring glue??
My lousy Ender 3 V2 sits in my garage in the winter at about 10-15º and sticks like a dream without glue...
Same. I'm still using the original glass plate that came stock- no glue, no tape.
It’s an amazing machine, 6 months into using it
Could you do a tutorial on how to make custom shaped circuit boards on pcb way? I need a board in the shape of the letter H and can’t figure out how to do it.
just bought the combo wanted the biger size of the k1max but the multi color of the p1s.
One of the first upgrades I got for my K1 Max was the optional PEI sheet and I have never had a problem with bed adhesion. The PEI textured bed should come with the K1 and Max as standard.
I've had a ender 3v2, have a ender 3s1, and just bought a Bambu P1S combo. The jump in quality and speed from the v2 to rhe s1 is as big as the jump I got from the s1 to the P1S. The P1S is scary with how easy it is to use and how fast it can print.
cant wait for bambu to add a larger model
Are you getting the multi color AMS?
Heya Chuck.
Part of the problem, I agree, is the build surface on the K1/K1Max. I actually changed out to a powdercoated PEI sheet and started seeing much more consistent first layers. Second as you've probably heard, is that you NEED to root Klipper and install a full version of the Fluidd (or Mainsail) WebUI, if only for the ability to access and modify the config files. Guilouz outlines on his Wiki a bunch of improvements that can be made, but the ones I considered ESSENTIAL were the input shaping fix and better settings for bed meshing. That and the PEI plate solved 95% of my 1st layer issues IMMEDIATELY. It's really dumb why Creality went all hard-nosed on the firmware and chose that crummy bed material. Those tweaks and the MicroSwiss FlowTech were really all I've done and now it prints like a dream!
Also I’d love to see more electronics videos. At least this time at MRRF I don’t have to look at printers, just filament and accessories. Love my p1s
Just a question from someone who has never owned a 3d printer before and maybe want to get one and print occasionally (also in abs/asa for car parts). I understand it has carbon rods. How does this stand the test of time when the printer is used occasionally?
Shouldn’t be a problem at all. Other things will break long before those.
The carbon rods had no problem on the X1 carbon the X1 carbon is phenomenal
Thanks!
P1S + AMS was my first current gen printer, and I immediately fell in love with it. Since then, I've had a QIDI X Max 3, a Kobra 2 Max and an A1 with AMS. The only one that has given me the kind of warm fuzzy feeling that the P1S did is the A1, which I genuinely think is the best printer made today. I really couldn't justify another P1S with the A1 being even better, if 10% slower, and half the price with an AMS. Also, the AMS lite is better than the AMS for sure. Also, get a PEI plate for the K1 Max. I just got my K1 Max, but I already had a PEI plate and Micro Swiss hot end for it, waiting.
I got an ender 3 v3se couple months ago as my 2nd printer. It works okay. Only had a few fails so far. Mostly good tho 😊
For the price its a great machine.
and why did u not mention this problem with the k1 on ur older vidoes?
I used a heavily improved Ender 3 for years. But now I switched to a Bambu Lab A1. This machine is so much better, not only faster baut also way more acurate and consistent. And, by the way, Orca slicer (open source) has an A1 profile since the latest update. It is at least as good as Bambu Studio.
X1Plus does not (and can not) make BL firmware open source. It adds and/or changes some modules running in linux, but it does not make BL firmware any more open source or community-friendly than it already was.
In a sense, Apple phones are more "open source" than BL printers, as you can freely (from within their app store) install apps to them and run those apps.
I actually bought all 3 of my K1 max’s from microcenter and still upset they don’t come with some type of textured plate. After swapping to a pei sheet I have no issues with the K1 Max. But I am also starting to warm up to Bambu after getting the A1 with the ams lite
Does MicroCenter sell the PEI sheets?
@@AshCanuk I found one for the K1 at mine but not the max unfortunately
I bought the K1 Max textured plate on Amazon and got next day delivery.
@@FilamentFriday I have it sitting in my cart right now haha
on my k1 and k1max, i've never used glue for any PLA piece... what i had to do is turn down the bed temp... the stock profile wanted 70c, and everything would warp and lift... i went down to 60c, and sometimes, i don't even need a brim on detailed stuff... it's great...
I was having the same issues on my K1 Max, but after switching original build plate for the Creality PEI Textured plate (like Bambu A1, P1S).
I don’t have that issue anymore, and I haven’t used glue one time.
I already bought one to try.
@@FilamentFriday Oh that’s great, I think you will really like it. Like I said, I haven’t had to use glue once yet (about 10 prints in), and haven’t used glue on the A1 texture plate either.
If you use glue on it, I wonder if you can include that in a video (what the difference is)
I want to see more electronics like circuit boards. I think it would be fun to do my own and show my kids and let them play with it/them.
On the smooth plate I have been using 3D LAC, I bought an upgrade pack from my retailer when I bought my X1 Carbon and AMS and the 3D LAC came in that pack, at first I used the Bambu glue stick and it was horrible and so I tried Elmers purple gluestick which was better but still my parts needed to be washed, I then tried the 3D LAC and this is awesome stuff although I would recommend people get the liquid spray as the swipe on versions cotton pad wears out quickly and then you have to make more wipes as the line is not as wide.
The parts made with the 3D LAC just needs a wipe with a damp cloth, you cant see the 3D LAC on the bottom of the part but I know that it is there and I would rather that it wasn't.
Some people give the smooth plate 3 stripes with purple glue stick and then spray a little hot water on the glue and wipe it with a wet paper towel and spread out the glue thinnly, I haven't tried this but people say its good.
I also use the Ideaformer textured PEI and PEY plates from Ali Express and they are just £10 including shipping, they work just great and are as good as the Bambu Lab gold textured plate but just a third of the cost, you have to disable bed plate recognition though
I think the gold build plate is thicker, which reduces warping.
Bambyou Lab definitely be shaking up the industry; let's hope they continue the upward trend of letting their stuff become more open source SeemsGood
Just got my p1s
Best printer I’ve used, the prints come out looking like they came out of a factory
I never use glue for pla. Not needed
Hi Chuck you are so right. I also have a K1 Max and the P1S. I have the same experience as Chuck. The first layer of the K1 Max is really a problem. I haven't had a good first layer and I tried everything. Also an additonal Pei plate and forcing the z to print o.1 mm lower at the first layer, But still it is a problem. And not only that. The prints are not the quality that you expect in this price range. The problem with the first layer mainly has to do with the physical aspects of the printer. The bed is just not flat. The bad prints have to do with the slicer. It is not able to generate files that lead to a quality print. A lot of bad printed layers. Layer shifting because of bad temp compensation in the speed prints. The ps1 does not have that. Good first layers and quality prints. Valvue for your money. I also used the Bambu Studio slicer to prepare prints for the K1Max and that does help the quality. But not the first layer..........
VisionMiner Nano Polymer Adhesive.
Not sure if you ever used it before but I swear by it. I will never use glue stick again.
Technically you shouldn't need adhesive for these textured PEI beds with PLA. But they are not all created equally. I've tried a few diff brands & some need to be heated up more than others & some also seem to need cleaning with IPA more often.
But for each bad print surface I have VisionMiner's Nano Polymer Adhesive has made all their short comings mute. It sticks amazingly well and yet releases great when cooled down. I don't use it on all my build surfaces because I have a few really good flex plates that don't need it. But for the ones that do I have it at the ready.
My plate on Bambu P1S is one of the ones that doesn't need it. Their textured plate is great. On par with some of my best build plates. My P1S is also the best printer I have ever used as well. I love it.
"mute"? • maybe try "moot", although, I totally got what you meant.
I've been using the X1 carbon for about a year now there's nothing that compares to it I love X1 carbon PS I've had quite a bit of printers and I don't even bother with them anymore after getting the X1 carbon
Creality being creality, it works (kind of) . Bambulab is so so worth. I'm in love with my x1c
Chuck - do you remember the Radio Shack 100 in 1 Kit?
Yes. Remember the RadioShack P-Box kits?
Yes. Grew up with the 100in 1. Those modular kits look great.I use a Vyper but ordering a P1S
I miss Radio Shack. Had plenty of radio shack RC cars as a kid and a Tandy computer
The new firmware, currently in beta improves the PR touch. I am hoping it fixes this issue. The PR touch is not consistent enough IMHO.
I really like the idea of simplified electronics demos. I love that stuff but it quickly starts to feel like a totally foreign language whenever I try and figure it out.
No doubt the P1S is a great machine, and that is the one I originally wanted BUT, when Black Friday came and the K1Max was put on sale, I jumped on it. Now, I have been printing constantly on the Max, very few issues I will say that Creality needs to put more effort into the Creality Slicer, for the last few weeks I have been using Orca and it seems more stable than the CR S. I don’t have issues with prints sticking to the bed, I wash the print be with soap and water, rinse dry, then apply Elmer’s purple glue stick, lasts for many prints. I REALLY BELIEVE what Chuck said a few videos back,,,”Learn your slicer, that IS the key to getting good prints!!!” I really like the 300mm size of the machine, if I had a bunch of extra $$’s setting around, would I buy the P1S, probably, but I still like my Max, I think it’s a great machine…. Soon I will turn loose the Klipper on it too..
The inconsistencies he's talking about are caused by creality print I bet. I could never get repeatable results in that crap software.
owning both the k1 and p1s. hands down the bambulab is far better in many ways, including the slicer.
I would really like to have you do a series on Snap Circuits. I have the big set you show in the background and I was disappointed that they make no attempt to explain what the theory is behind the circuit they just show you the pieces to put together.
Great idea!
I have 9 P1S printers. I like them a little bit lol
the big problem with bambu is the lack of support. ive not had the use of my x1c in over a month
I have a P1S and a K1C(upgraded harden steel version of K1). IMO, K1C is much worse than P1S. The first layer has big gaps, and orcaslicer K1 profile leads to serious layer shifting problem. Though to my surprise, the creality print software is not bad at all. Maybe I'll keep the K1C for fibre printing.
I have the CHEP profile for Cura, and a Prusa slicer profile for the K1. The Creality Print slicer seems to give the best results. Even improved the quality of prints on my Ender 2 pro, Ender 3 pro and my Ender 3 S1 Pro. The drawback for me is that I do a lot of RC airplane single wall prints that need modifications at layer heights and I can’t seem to find a way to do that in Creality Print.
I didn't think the K1C was released to market yet?
@@kobemaui9983 K1C has been released in China for a month. The movement mechanic should be same with K1(according to Creality).
@EpixZhang Cheers for the reply, I thought the one of things they tried to improve with the K1C was the bed flatness
Update: Creality has exchanged a new unit for me. Everything seems working well now.
Ok! Okay!
I know so many people are stuck on glue sticks.... oh.. wait... sorry for the pun. LOL
BUT....
When I first got my 3D printer, I had nothing but adhesion problems. Warping, lifting corners, print getting close to finished then all of a sudden just letting go and sliding all over the place.
I was put onto Magigoo. It was recommended by someone who does hundreds of prints.
She told me that nothing else she's used works as well.
But the thing, at the time, was $20 for a small bottle. The size of a bingo dabber. In fact, looks the same. LOL
But, I gave it a try and have never looked back.
To assure success, while the bed is cool, I clean it with water and a JCloth. The Magigoo just comes off easily.
I dry it then apply Magigoo in the entire area where the print will be.
I do only print on a hot bed, usually 75C! LOL Yeah, that's hot, but it's been great.
Since using this stuff, my prints have been consistently great. No more elephant feet, shifting... nothing.
When the print is done, it's best to let the bed cool down to room temp and if you didn't apply a thick layer of Magigoo, the print will just pop off.
I've tried the glue sticks and the blue tape thing and I find that none of that is consistent.
I just thought that I'd share this, because it just works.
Yes, it does what you say to do. I’m burring my ender3, adventurer, and duplicator 3!
k1 max is my biggest regret I wont by another creality machine had so many head aches with it
I bought a P1s and was blown away. I did not know print quality could be that good without ANY upgrades or tinkering. I now have three of them and donated my creality machines to a local school.
Everyone should also be aware that the John Adams Hot-Wires are fully compatible with Snap Circuits.
Your problem with the K1 is 100% the profile that you are using. Take a closer look at the under extrusion, which is how I know it’s your profile. I had the exact same problem until I figured out what is going wrong. This may sound weird, but you are REQUIRED to use the acceleration settings in the Print Settings. Just copy the values from Creality Print, and you’ll have absolutely perfect prints. Especially if you create custom filament profiles for the printer as well.
No way. It is Friday today.
Glue? Have we gone back to the Anet days ??
Even my X1C came with a glue stick.
@@FilamentFriday I'm just surprised... Been running my O.G.. E3 with a slab of mirror I found in the garage for so long that I'd assumed the world would have moved on... (I'll admit I print 99% PLA using your excellent profiles 🤠👍)
@@TernaryTroutthe glue nowadays (at least for bambu, can't speak for anyone else) is a release agent, not to get better adhesion.
Creality has a "B Plate" that is textured PEI that you can get for $24-ish.
I’ve already ordered one to try out.
@FilamentFriday It works great with ABS, but I haven't tried it with PLA yet.
It works great with PLA, that’s all I use. Never used glue once yet with the PEI Texture plate
When I bought my cr10s pro the instructions suggested always printing witha raft. I now print usung a K1 max, and use a raft and I think it works well, so please consider a raft for prints on your k1 max.
But why would you if other printers don't need a raft
Because you already own a K1 Max and it's too late to change you mind and buy a P1S
@@adibbins yeah I understand but probably has something to do with to build plate or something because you shouldn't have to resort to using rafts normally rafts are used for old printers with crappy build surfaces
I beat my Ender with a ball peen hammer after throwing it on the garage floor, forcefully. Bought a Bambu and actually enjoy printing.
I started using creality’s slicer for my k1max. I click the calibrate before print box and turned on the LiDAR on the max and that basically solved the few 1st layer issues I was having.
I use my k1 max without glue
Same I’ve never used the glue.
The P1S is down to $699!?
I have both. Impossible to compare. P1S is way better than K1. I bought PEI for K1 and its also way better now but P1S with AMS is unbeatable.
Check in with the browser or Orcaslicer to see how far off level the surface is. It's way too much slope, auto leveling may not be able to compensate for it. I see 100s of posts on reddit with the K1 and k1max, how people re-leveled the bed to get it under a certain number. Some printed plastic shims under the bed corners, others went a more drastic way (tooth skipping) , adjusting the 2 front Z rods by forcing to skip a tooth on the belt to raise-lower the front 2 corners to get it in more precise level than factory. Some were able to get it under 0.3 and came from like 1.8mm height difference. Of course, there is that thing, that the user shouldn't be doing this in the first place.
Great tip. Thanks.
You also don't see 1000s that dont have any issues you must not be on the bambu pages very much. Ill take my k1 over anything bambu does id rather have access and not share my data. Other then the ams gimmick my k1 will do just as good. The 290 anycubic kobra 2 pro puts all my core xy's to shame and its a bed slinger
I never use glue W K1Max
i Use gel with Bambulab P1S
I got a piece of crap k1 Max too. I don't use glue stick I use spray glue out of spray can. But the biggest problem with this piece of crap is the bed heat it's inconsistent. You get warpage because the bed doesn't have an even amount of heat across it. That's most likely the problem that you're having. Curality hid the problem when they put glass for their beds. Now it sticks out like a sore fing thumb.