Great video thank you if I could make one recommendation it would have been good to mention the importance of replacing the old gasket properly by removing and cleaning the cover and using a new gasket and applying sealant as well as cross tightening the cover bolts evenly to torque spec.
Something even easier = put finger or thumb over spark plug hole and slowly rotate flywheel. The compression stroke will push thumb off the plug hole THEN insert a feeler rod into plug hole and come on up to TDC and maybe a couple of degrees past TDC depending on engine specs. Now check and adjust valve clearance. The compression stroke is what you are looking for here before making adjustments. I can't believe all you "master mechanics" miss this easy tip.
When I tighten the inner torx locking screw it does not lock my out rocker arm nut in place. It still spins freely. Why is the locking screw not doing anything
So what happens when you adjust the valve clearance on both cylinders and it still turns over very slowly? Does that mean your crankshaft is bad? I already replaced the battery, solenoid and starter. Completely checked all wiring for shorts and tight ground wires. Valve adjustment is the last possible problem other than the crankshaft.
I will send you link in another comment but they do not always work. You can also search google for "Briggs and stratton valve clearance chart". That will get you there.
Hi I hope this link can help you www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Briggs-&-Stratton-Spec-Charts/Check%20Chart%20common_specs_metric_all%20BRIGGS%20&%20STRATTON_engines.pdf
WOW! Just came across this video and what a Godsend. My local small engine shop wanted $125 to do this and with your help I did it myself. Along with that, I rewarded myself with a cold beer afterwards. Great video. Straight to the point with no filler material. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us that don't know, but are willing to learn. I'll make sure to pass this knowledge on.
Waste of time to find TDC, when 1 valve is fully open the other is fully closed ....set that one then rotate the engine to do the other when fully closed.Easy peasy!
Hello, thanks! I agree with you there are shortcuts to the process that come with experience. This video is meant for complete beginners and from an instructional viewpoint it is easier to show getting both valves slack just past the compression stroke so there is no chance of being on a down or up stroke. It is the way Briggs teaches/recommends it and is the way I would recommend learning it. Once you are comfortable knowing what is actually happening, then feel free to use all the shortcuts you want. All the best!
Thanks, I finally adjusted the valves on my 10.5 .b&s. After spending almost $100 on a new recoil and screwing up my shoulder & my hand, I watched your video. Thanks you saved me over $100 getting it fixed at the mower shop. Thanks
Hey thanks for the video! I do have a problem whit my engine still. It making these strange cuts when its running full. I change all orings and the needle in the carburetor and all service parts are changed but still cuts out even when new fuel. Any ideas? Checked the valves to
I checked and adjusted the valve lash on my 1972 4 cylinder MGB sports car which has the opposite way of adjusting the lash and, thus, confused me. On the "B", the clearance is set by adjusting the center adjusting screw and it is the NUT that locks the adjusting screw in place. It looks like, with these mower engines, the clearance is set by moving the NUT and then the hex or torx screw is used to lock the setting down. Am I correct?
Very informative and understanding process in performing the rocker arm adjustment. Thank you for making this video. First time ever subscribing to a channel.
"if they are both loose your in right spot" if not wrong stroke....this fixed my issues😊 I also marked my flywheel using piston stop...made life easier!
So many videos about this procedure seems to focus on the valve clearance. Getting the engine to TDC is the most important step I believe. Without that all is lost.
Excellent, liked & subbed! I have a B&S 28V707 given to me in a Murray Select rider mower. I have used this for several years and I have never checked the valve lash, and I don't think it has ever been checked. I saw what the spec was 5-7 and 3-5 and was pleasantly surprised when you told what the spec was and the gauge you used, that was the help I needed. Superlative! So today is the day! Thank you!
is this a symptom of excessive gap in the exhaust valve: mower will try to yank your arm off when starting after a couple pulls. seems to only happen when cold, about halfway through a pull it will violently pull the cord back into the engine. runs perfect once it starts though. others have advised me it might be the flywheel key.
When i put in the new camshaft on that same engine i noticed the top valve inside the engine was a little stiff pulling it out it was stiff halfway out like the hole it fits in needs drilled out to smoothen it up Its the part at the end of the push rod inside the engine My compression release on the old camshaft was still good and worked but the lobes were worn down on the camshaft and thats what my problem was. I seen on one name brand replacement part that came with my parts from Briggs for that same engine wasn't the exact match for the oil pump so i didn't use that part i didn't need it anyways wouldn't have fit my oil pump anyways mines part is round at the bottom and flat on top of the part
I think my mower engine came from a junkyard because after i took it all apart i seen someone wrote some numbers on the inside of it only place that does that is at junkyards and maybe from the manufacturer im not sure.
I was searching for 20 minutes to find the valve clearance for my engine. Your video shows me to search for the "check Chart". Thanks! Its unbelievable to me that a manufacturer is incapable of sharing this information in a way that customers can find it...
I have a question just had a problem with my 17.5 removed the valve cover and the intake rocker was loose the stud back out and the little cap is missing from the top of the in take valve cant find not in the oil or filter just ordered a new one have you ever had that happen?? Thanks
Hell, sorry to take so long to reply but yes I have seen that before. But I ended up finding the cap as it fell out unnoticed when I removed the valve cover. You definitely want to pull the pushrods and check that they are straight as this is a common problem on these engines. Thanks, Eddie
I had the same issue on my briggs v twin. I'm guessing that the factory used the sealant on the valve covers, there was no gasket. I was able to gently pry them up at the corner with a small flat blade screwdriver. Be careful not to gouge the aluminium head, my valve cover bent slightly but was easily straightened with pliers. I cleaned both sides of the sealing joints, and used a very thin layer of copper rtv to re seal.
What do you mean? If you are searching for your motor number i should be stamped somewhere in the format xxxxxx xxxx xx but you only need the first 2 parts
I went to do this and rotating the flywheel moved my valves just fine. I inserted a dowel (#2 pencil) into the plug hole and the piston didn’t seem to move on either end. I applied a little bit of force and it seemed to move the piston down, but now my flywheel is locked up. What happened and how do I fix it?
Thanks for the info and not wasting a lot of time. Appreciate it. Doug
Great video. Very professional. Thanks!
Great video thank you if I could make one recommendation it would have been good to mention the importance of replacing the old gasket properly by removing and cleaning the cover and using a new gasket and applying sealant as well as cross tightening the cover bolts evenly to torque spec.
Thanks for watching and sharing the helpful tips. Really good suggestion.
Very helpful, I’m just getting into small engine repair.
This must be done every year on ohv engines
Easy and simple 😊
Thanks very much.
Something even easier = put finger or thumb over spark plug hole and slowly rotate flywheel. The compression stroke will push thumb off the plug hole THEN insert a feeler rod into plug hole and come on up to TDC and maybe a couple of degrees past TDC depending on engine specs. Now check and adjust valve clearance. The compression stroke is what you are looking for here before making adjustments. I can't believe all you "master mechanics" miss this easy tip.
You are a legend.
@@Tladdd😂
Great job
Thanks!
Great video and to the point.
I wish Hipa would make carbs for the larger hp briggs and tecumseh engines, there small engine 2 strokes are awsome.
Thanks for your feedback. Are these carbs of the engines with 20 above horse power you are looking for?
No, 4 stroke under 10hp
@@drunkingsailor2359 OK got you.
When I tighten the inner torx locking screw it does not lock my out rocker arm nut in place. It still spins freely. Why is the locking screw not doing anything
brill thanks
Do you have a TH-cam on adjusting a 2 stork weed waker with the adjustment screw in the intake not on side
sorry, we didn't shoot that video.
Would this be the same procedure for a Honda OHV 5hp rotary mower except for the feeler gauge used?
Yeah, can't seem to find the specs on my Briggs, just advertisement pages.
So what happens when you adjust the valve clearance on both cylinders and it still turns over very slowly? Does that mean your crankshaft is bad? I already replaced the battery, solenoid and starter. Completely checked all wiring for shorts and tight ground wires. Valve adjustment is the last possible problem other than the crankshaft.
Could be the compression release is broken off the camshaft.
nice tutorial
For my engine, theres a lot oil coming out when I take the lid off. Can it be the pistons leaking oil??
The worn piston rings and valve seat may cause this.
Gotta love keyboard warriors lol, this gent is explaining things properly,
Great vid , Do you have one for a older flat head design?
I believe I have a couple flat heads that I can show this on. Stay tuned! Thanks!
I asked you where to get the data to adjust the valve, where should I get it? Thanks
I will send you link in another comment but they do not always work. You can also search google for "Briggs and stratton valve clearance chart". That will get you there.
outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp
Bullshit! Site can't be found.@@HipaParts
Doesn't work, just gets the message "see your Briggs dealer".@@HipaParts
@@HipaParts I don't see my model number on that link
I have the exact same motor but can't find the manual anywhere on the Internet. Could you share where you got your specs?
Hi I hope this link can help you www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Briggs-&-Stratton-Spec-Charts/Check%20Chart%20common_specs_metric_all%20BRIGGS%20&%20STRATTON_engines.pdf
Thanks internet dad
Keyon Glens
Garth Wells
On a 21hp platinum is exhaust on top or bottom
Exhaust valve will be next to the exhaust pipe.
❤
Remove and replace
The entire BS engine
the correct term is rotate, NOT revolve
Who cares
The usual position on an Intek is just past TDC, with the stick going in by ¼ inch.
Your presentation is superb. So informative and given so down to earth. Nice beard :)
Simple and to the point. Thank you. My mower starts 100% better. No drag.
I'm going to do this tomorrow, so I'm studying tonight. I really appreciate the way you present this. Clear information with excellent camera work.
Funny. Exactly what I was doing :)I put the new head gasket on today. Fired it up, smoking problem fixed. Tomorrow the rockers need to be adjusted.
Why are your valves so dirty?
WOW! Just came across this video and what a Godsend. My local small engine shop wanted $125 to do this and with your help I did it myself. Along with that, I rewarded myself with a cold beer afterwards. Great video. Straight to the point with no filler material. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with those of us that don't know, but are willing to learn. I'll make sure to pass this knowledge on.
Great video on the valve lash
You are the MAN!!! Thank you for getting right to the point!
Waste of time to find TDC, when 1 valve is fully open the other is fully closed ....set that one then rotate the engine to do the other when fully closed.Easy peasy!
Hello, thanks! I agree with you there are shortcuts to the process that come with experience. This video is meant for complete beginners and from an instructional viewpoint it is easier to show getting both valves slack just past the compression stroke so there is no chance of being on a down or up stroke. It is the way Briggs teaches/recommends it and is the way I would recommend learning it. Once you are comfortable knowing what is actually happening, then feel free to use all the shortcuts you want. All the best!
Thanks, I finally adjusted the valves on my 10.5 .b&s. After spending almost $100 on a new recoil and screwing up my shoulder & my hand, I watched your video. Thanks you saved me over $100 getting it fixed at the mower shop. Thanks
Hey thanks for the video! I do have a problem whit my engine still. It making these strange cuts when its running full. I change all orings and the needle in the carburetor and all service parts are changed but still cuts out even when new fuel. Any ideas? Checked the valves to
@mounted9ames did you figure it out? Having the same issue on a 20hp briggs.
Might be the pin in the cam.@@mounted9ames
I checked and adjusted the valve lash on my 1972 4 cylinder MGB sports car which has the opposite way of adjusting the lash and, thus, confused me. On the "B", the clearance is set by adjusting the center adjusting screw and it is the NUT that locks the adjusting screw in place. It looks like, with these mower engines, the clearance is set by moving the NUT and then the hex or torx screw is used to lock the setting down. Am I correct?
Thank you for your help
Easy and to the point. Thanks
Very informative and understanding process in performing the rocker arm adjustment. Thank you for making this video. First time ever subscribing to a channel.
"if they are both loose your in right spot" if not wrong stroke....this fixed my issues😊 I also marked my flywheel using piston stop...made life easier!
I did this and now the mower wont turn over but about a quarter or half turn and gets stuck
Just adjust one with the other valve is down or open
I can't keep valves adjusted. After 3 or more mowing I have to re-adjust. I make sure they are locked down. Help
Lock tight the studs, clean hole with brake cleaner and use red lock tight
Let it dry 24 hours
Thats lot of knowledge
These videos are informative and very well made.
Thank you sir! and thank you for being a long time supporter of the channel. Your video watching endeavors will pay large rewards some day.
@@HipaParts Inheritiing a wealth of knowledge and the riches of community is it's own reward. :)
thanks for info starts much better
Sometime i need to buy some more hipa cleaners again for cleaning out carburetor jet holes my old set are kinda dirty
DId this and after I put spark plug back in it still work turn all the way around by hand.. So Now what to check??
Thank you job well done
So many videos about this procedure seems to focus on the valve clearance. Getting the engine to TDC is the most important step I believe. Without that all is lost.
Correct is ¼” past Top Dead Center
Great explanation. Thanks for sharing.
Thanx
Excellent, liked & subbed! I have a B&S 28V707 given to me in a Murray Select rider mower. I have used this for several years and I have never checked the valve lash, and I don't think it has ever been checked. I saw what the spec was 5-7 and 3-5 and was pleasantly surprised when you told what the spec was and the gauge you used, that was the help I needed. Superlative! So today is the day! Thank you!
No worries.
Thank you for your video, worked like a charm!
short and sweet thanks alot! much help!
Thank you!
Excellent video--thanks!
Hot or cold !
Turner Cape
Keebler Crest
👍👍
What is the model of this engine? I have the same exact one! :)
is this a symptom of excessive gap in the exhaust valve: mower will try to yank your arm off when starting after a couple pulls. seems to only happen when cold, about halfway through a pull it will violently pull the cord back into the engine. runs perfect once it starts though. others have advised me it might be the flywheel key.
When i put in the new camshaft on that same engine i noticed the top valve inside the engine was a little stiff pulling it out it was stiff halfway out like the hole it fits in needs drilled out to smoothen it up
Its the part at the end of the push rod inside the engine
My compression release on the old camshaft was still good and worked but the lobes were worn down on the camshaft and thats what my problem was.
I seen on one name brand replacement part that came with my parts from Briggs for that same engine wasn't the exact match for the oil pump so i didn't use that part i didn't need it anyways wouldn't have fit my oil pump anyways mines part is round at the bottom and flat on top of the part
I think my mower engine came from a junkyard because after i took it all apart i seen someone wrote some numbers on the inside of it only place that does that is at junkyards and maybe from the manufacturer im not sure.
Thank you for this helpful post.
My center set screw just keeps screwing in and won't tighten the nut but it's not stripped out. Do you know what causes this?
What website did you find that clearance chart?
No joke
@@bubbie3533 I've literally searched and it doesn't show if your thinking I'm slow for not just "looking up the chart"
I Googled "check cart Briggs and Stratton" and found it. The link I sent should take you there. Cheers! 🤘
@@bubbie3533 that's where I went wrong I searched valve clearance chart
Briggs had the service manuals on their website 10 years ago. Not sure if they still do, but thats where I got the chart.
Well now it doesn't run very well at all 😢
I was searching for 20 minutes to find the valve clearance for my engine. Your video shows me to search for the "check Chart". Thanks!
Its unbelievable to me that a manufacturer is incapable of sharing this information in a way that customers can find it...
You're welcome and I'm glad this video helps
Dankeschön für gute viedeo, ARKADAS
Nice presentation , thanks.
Stellar instructional 👍🏻
I have a question just had a problem with my 17.5 removed the valve cover and the intake rocker was loose the stud back out and the little cap is missing from the top of the in take valve cant find not in the oil or filter just ordered a new one have you ever had that happen?? Thanks
Hell, sorry to take so long to reply but yes I have seen that before. But I ended up finding the cap as it fell out unnoticed when I removed the valve cover. You definitely want to pull the pushrods and check that they are straight as this is a common problem on these engines. Thanks,
Eddie
? using the tdc method
as shown in the video
do i need to re do the tdc to adjust the intake?
or finding it for the exhaust
serves for both?
Both
how do you get the parameters 003. 004. 005. for each different machine Thanks
look it up on google
How do determine which valve in the intake and which is exhaust?
exhaust has a steel push rod, intake has a aluminum rod.
You should’ve been a Shop teacher. Good video.
Thanks and I'm glad that this video is of use.
Thanks for the video. The valve cove on my B&S 550EX is stuck. Tapping it and grabbing it with large channel locks won't work . How can I remove it ?
I took screwdriver and hammer and got mine off.
I had the same issue on my briggs v twin. I'm guessing that the factory used the sealant on the valve covers, there was no gasket. I was able to gently pry them up at the corner with a small flat blade screwdriver. Be careful not to gouge the aluminium head, my valve cover bent slightly but was easily straightened with pliers. I cleaned both sides of the sealing joints, and used a very thin layer of copper rtv to re seal.
Should you adjust both rocker arms at top dead center when you set the valves a 4 and 6?
Yes.
Each machine has different numbers how do you get it? Thanks
What do you mean? If you are searching for your motor number i should be stamped somewhere in the format xxxxxx xxxx xx but you only need the first 2 parts
I went to do this and rotating the flywheel moved my valves just fine. I inserted a dowel (#2 pencil) into the plug hole and the piston didn’t seem to move on either end. I applied a little bit of force and it seemed to move the piston down, but now my flywheel is locked up. What happened and how do I fix it?
Did the entire pencil come back out or did you break a piece off onside the cylinder?
Remove your spark plug.
@@Redneck_Ed😂
Thanks for your help
You're welcome. We are happy to make more videos to help other DIY repairers.
No gasket or sealer for valve cover?
Hi very interested video. Have you made any videos on failed governor??