I have similar issues but, mine starts for brief minutes runs like crap, its hard to start on the compression stroke and sounds just that, also there's no pieces in the crank
You ain't kidding about Amazon aftermarket part, I have a 1990 Dynamark i was restoring and its engine was replaced at sometime from a Breaks n Scrap em to a 12.5hp Tecumish. I wanted to install a new carb and ordered on frim scamazon needless to say that carb fit but it was backfiring and just would not run good. So i went to Parts tree and ordered a OEM it was definitely alot more money, but my tractor runs perfect now. I did finally get it completely restored and it looks and runs like new. Its a pretty awesome running/cutting rider. Anyway my point is sometimes its not better to save money if you want perfection. Great content as always good Sir
i have a john deere with this engine and the camshaft problem,been mowing with it for 2 years,i just spin the engine backwards until its free,shoot some starting fluid in it and it starts every time,i usually don't shut it off again until i finish mowing,bought it used,not worth fixing as long as it starts
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I just removed my engine, though I was a little apprehensive due to very little experience with these engines, I trusted your advice about not having a bump at the valve and you were exactly right. Right down to the metal rattling after flipping the motor over. I removed several pieces of the ACR from inside the motor. Now Im ready to order the parts. You did a great job with this video and I"ll definitely trust you for any and all future repairs I may have to make.
An easy solution to overcome the compression is remove the air cleaner then, wearing a leather glove, put your hand over the intake on the carburetor. Then have someone crank the engine. It will turn over easy if it gets no air for compression. It will start really fast so get your gloved hand off the intake quickly so it can run. Usually nothing broken, just the compression release mechanism fails to operate after setting around for a couple of months.
The thing that the gas might be in the.oil can cause the hydro lock I've been there did that on my poulan XT mower so I cut the gas valve off and let the carburetor run out of gas
I ran my craftsman YTS3000 without a new cam. I got most of the pieces out with a magnet. Turned the crank to upstroke, covered the intake and started it up. Ran like a top for several hundred hours before I sold it.
I have a Murray 42 inch cut with a 14hp Briggs & Stratton. I put a new battery and a new solenoid and now I can't get it to turn over can't get it to click can't get it to do anything would it be my starter or would it be in my ignition?
Fantastic as always. I have seen 7 john deere lawn tractors with busted compression relief pins in the past 2 months. Must be something in the water! Thank you for all your videos. I just love watching !
Great video! To the point and not a bunch of jacking around finding tools or moving the camera making everybody seasick. Unfortunately I believe the cam is also wiped in my engine. With so many projects currently on the bench . I think I will just junk the mower and buy a nice used one get 6 or 7 years from it hopefully.
I've been getting mine to start by tuurning by hand backwards, plugging intake with rag then it'll start. Doesn't start everytime though... usually only first thing in morning when it's cool.
I have a Briggs model 422707 which acts like compression slow turnover. Do these have a decompression ability? It has the carburetor in the front and no valve adjustment apparent.
As far as I can see, that is what's called a flathead. It doesn't have compression release cam. Test battery voltage, is it over 12 volts? If no charge or replace battery. If over 12 volts remove spark plug spin engine over and listen. Is it dragging? Or does it spin really fast? So so many things. Slow with plug out, possible bad ground, bad connection, bad starter and more. If I could hear it I could instantly tell ya. Hope this helps ya some. Hard to diagnose in a couple comments.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Thanks, I had been using a 200 amp boost to assist the old battery and had those problems. I ran jumper cables from my truck and turns over fast now, so I think I needed a better battery and more amps.
Man thank for posting this... I got a 26 breaks n scrap'm that's killin batteries and i think i smoked the Sil - starter wire. It does the exact thing though, locks up before the starter can pushi it over hard enough to turn. I'll check the valves but im not sure this video applies to a 2 cylinder.... Seems like though, jus twiste... I'd go check but it wouldnt start across town and it aint here right now.... Anyway thanks.
I had to replace my camshaft on my 17.5 hp Briggs also. My cam lobe was very worn along with the compression release being broken, not a terrible job, it ran like a new mower afterwards. I discovered how bad the lobe was during a valve adjustment while replacing head gasket for oil burning and smoking. Like others say you can mow a while with it by turning the engine backwards until on low spot to help overcome the high compression while cranking. Eventually the lobe wears down too much and mower won’t run with any power. I wish I had done this job in April instead of June in Florida heat, this was about 7 years ago, I now have a Koehler, not sure if I’m better or worse off lol. That Briggs ran great afterwards but that dam 17.5 must all have bad cams.
Have exactly the same issues with my. B&S. 540cc 19 hp. Riding it for like 20 minutes. Cutting the grass, Engine revved up really high that startled me. When I went to turn it back on, that’s what I got. I guess tomorrow I’ll check the gas to see. if the chef broke. Thanks for that video. It really helped me in the knowledge department. Thnks.
Have the exact same mower with the exact same issue. Took it apart and camshaft was not broke. But its back together and adjusted valves. Guess we'll see what happens when I try to crank it up.
I have the troy bilt 18.5 it's will start one time then hesitate and blow a fuse on the next time starting. I checked for the bump and does have that bump. Bad ground possibly? Fuse blows 2nd start. Thanks
Thank you. This video led me to a problem i wouldnt have thought about. Compression relief symptom / problem brought me here.. or so i thought. Soon as i got to the valves, exhaust valve was dangling.. holding in the compression.. Tried to adjust it, but the tiny hex allen center screw was locked, non adjustable now. I couldve been hunting the small part to replace and then waiting on it, but i took the round tipped valve nut / bolt with its siezed adjustment inner screw and Cut it with my cut disk grinder, lower than the stuck screw. So i screwed the thing on, huntin for ideas, then thought to adjust that valve perfect with it, then weld it in. If ever needed to remove the bolt that holds the valve to the head (thats welded on the end, to the rounded valve nut) can be cut with a small dremil and tiny cut disk.. but it should hold up for life as longnas this generator engine is properly handled But big thanks.. this video got my engine going again, a whole lot easier than i imagined (to have to get all the way into the cam.. on a dang genrator wit big motor to remove first.. whew!
Briggs & Stratton parts are no better than the parts from Amazon because they all come from China and that’s why I sand casted my own camshaft and gears and it is easier than it looks and fun to do.
My camshaft broke, i replaced it put it back together and its still doing the same thing. Any suggestions? Do i need to drain the oil to open the valve cover?
You can remove the valve cover without draining the oil. Just a tiny bit may come out. Set valves to .004 in. Remove spark plug and look for the bump as you turn it over by hand. If it bumps, good. Turn over with key with spark plug out and listen. It's possibly a battery, bad connection at ground to frame or starter. I'm guessing the issue you are having is that it won't spin over.
Yes it want spin. I opened the motor and the camshaft was broke so i cleaned the pieces out and replaced it, put it back together and the motor still want spin. New battery, solenoid , i cleaned the ground wires also
I’ve been watching and checking valves and found out that the valves are way off and the compression release is broken My personal mower.,bs17 hp 20+ years old and have not changed cam But I check valves lash twice a season every year
I enjoy watching your videos very much. I saw your tip about sticking a magnet down your oill dipstick tube to see if you can retrieve any compression release parts. I bought a magnet tool and put it in my dipstick tube, but only retrieved a few metal filings. Does this eliminate the possibility that my compression release mechanism is broken?
That is a handy tool. I got lucky on that one, seldom do I retrieve pieces of it. I always rely on looking for that small bump at the rockers when turning the engine over.
15 hp B&S.. the motor runs good. when I turn it off it basically free spins(no spit & sputter like it is trying to stay running) just free spin for about 5 seconds. is this normal?
I worked for Briggs and stratton in West kentucky until 2019, the push mower engine size. Im annoyed they are making junk like this nowadays on the bigger motors, my rider is doing the same thing.
It's nice to see less and less of the Kohler 7000 series engines in the repair shop all others especially Briggs & Straton are constantly in for repairs
The 7000 series is a good engine. About the only thing they need is the valve cover upgrade that the “Pro” engines have. I wouldn’t buy a newer single cylinder from Briggs or Kohler.
I literally just blew up my new used kholer john deere. Craftsman of course has a bad compression valve ergo why I'm here lol. Dang grass won't stop growing for anything
I’ve been getting around the issue by turning the engine past the point of the compression release by hand (open palm on top of the fan cover and twist it over). Not ideal but, so far, it works!
Hi T-Bone, I love your YT videos. Today's was awesome. I have had a problem for a year. My mower, intek B&S would turn over just like yours did. Then stop, just like yours except if I held the key over in the start position for two,,three, maybe four seconds longer, it would start spinning and start the engine. I have looked and asked multiple sources and no on could tell me what caused it. Now I finally know what the problem is. It needs a new cam. Thanks T-Bone, mystery solved because of you.
Awesome, so glad it helped you my friend. I just got the parts in today for this one. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend. Sorry about sound quality, I was having mic issues and didn't realize until filming was done.
Probably needs it, yes. This one definitely has a bad camshaft. Got the OEM parts in today and Probably gonna film the repair. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
Remove valve cover, adjust the valves and then look for the bump. You CAN fix it!!! If it's a bad cam, watch the video in the description, it will guide you thru it.
Great video. Straight and to the point. Liked and Subscribed. BTW I use medical patient lifts AKA "Hoyer lifts" to raise mowers, pick up small engines (they'll easily do a Harley or other touring bike motor) and place 'em on my cart or work bench. I already have a bad back so the time to set up a variety of lifting gear, carts and dollies makes wrenching much easier.
Great video! Helped alot! I did my intek 16.5. Question, should there be a valve cap on the intake valve? There is one on the exhaust but not the intake. What's the risk of running without one? Thanks!
Tell me why the OEM part broke. It happen on mine and I had a resomeable fix , cost nothing other that a slight problem starting. Yes a mechanic and a customer relationship not a viable option.
going on 1 year of use with an amazon cam because grandfather refused to buy oem, hes tighter than a crabs ass lol. guess we got a good machined one. Going to check my mower today and see if my cam went or if the valves need to be adjusted.
i read they can break the first start up after repair, so i took the head off mine and drilled a hole to make my own manual compression relief valve. did this back in 2020 during the sickness when no one could get out or work.
What would cause these symtoms but only when its cold out? My mower during the summer starts and runs perfect in the summer but come fall it will show these symptoms
Nope. I've seen guys put huge starters & just burn them out, melt wires.It's the GD comp. relief arm inside the engine, OR valve adjustment. I bought a NEW battery & starter before I found all these videos on this problem. Sometimes I've been getting mine to start by tuurning by hand backwards, plugging intake with rag to stop it from sucking air in... then it'll start. Doesn't start everytime though... usually only first thing in morning when it's cool.
You and Taryl Fixes All are my top 2 go to channels, I bought a 2012 Ariens with that same engine, it did the same thing, but I got lucky, bad carb cause a hydro lock...Amazon carb for $27 and its been running great....Keep up the good work Sir!
@@RaleysSmallEngines ok I turned it over by hand a few times and saw no bump. I got a new battery the other day and it was hard to start but started. Now I believe I have wore down the battery so I pit a jumper box on it and it still turns over really slow stopping sometimes. It turns just fine with the plug out though
It is when the carburetor is leaking fuel into engine on top of piston. When this happens the piston can't go all the way to the top of the cylinder and engine will feel like it is locked up. Hydro ( liquid) locked. Hope this helps, I'm sure there is a better way to explain it.
@@RaleysSmallEngines After you replace the carb for a hydrolocked situation, do you have to do something to remove the fuel that is on top of the piston(s)? In other words, what frees them up so it becomes un-hydrolocked?
I had this same exact problem. I had a new battery on it so I knew this wasn't the issue. I simply pulled out the spark plug and spun the engine manually by hand and reinstalled the plug and it ran perfectly.
Sorry About the Sound Quality, I was having Mic issues.
I have similar issues but, mine starts for brief minutes runs like crap, its hard to start on the compression stroke and sounds just that, also there's no pieces in the crank
Sounds Great to me
Sounded great no problems
Small engine manufacturer's need a class action lawsuits brought against them for intentionally using inferior parts !!!
Yep,
I just put a cam in my 4 yr old 31R 909. Safford Equipment, $69.99 for the cam and tappers.
Excellent idea about putting that magnet down the oil fill. Thanks for showing us how to check for bad compression release. Keep the videos coming.
I'm glad there are people like you on YT to help people like me that have no idea of how to fix a small engine
You ain't kidding about Amazon aftermarket part, I have a 1990 Dynamark i was restoring and its engine was replaced at sometime from a Breaks n Scrap em to a 12.5hp Tecumish. I wanted to install a new carb and ordered on frim scamazon needless to say that carb fit but it was backfiring and just would not run good. So i went to Parts tree and ordered a OEM it was definitely alot more money, but my tractor runs perfect now. I did finally get it completely restored and it looks and runs like new. Its a pretty awesome running/cutting rider. Anyway my point is sometimes its not better to save money if you want perfection. Great content as always good Sir
i have a john deere with this engine and the camshaft problem,been mowing with it for 2 years,i just spin the engine backwards until its free,shoot some starting fluid in it and it starts every time,i usually don't shut it off again until i finish mowing,bought it used,not worth fixing as long as it starts
Well crap..i was hoping for a stuck starter brush or weak electrical connection.
Very informative, straight to the point. Thank you.
Thanks for the nod to Taryl Dactal! Good diagnosis, too.
1st, check your oil level, my crankcase was full of oil & gas..
Another quick diagnostic. Great learning tool.
Partstree! Thanks because I was wondering where to get proper stuff. I appreciate you showing that.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I just removed my engine, though I was a little apprehensive due to very little experience with these engines, I trusted your advice about not having a bump at the valve and you were exactly right. Right down to the metal rattling after flipping the motor over. I removed several pieces of the ACR from inside the motor. Now Im ready to order the parts. You did a great job with this video and I"ll definitely trust you for any and all future repairs I may have to make.
Great learning experience as always. Very informative and detailed with a step by step explanation. Keep up the great work!
An easy solution to overcome the compression is remove the air cleaner then, wearing a leather glove, put your hand over the intake on the carburetor. Then have someone crank the engine. It will turn over easy if it gets no air for compression. It will start really fast so get your gloved hand off the intake quickly so it can run. Usually nothing broken, just the compression release mechanism fails to operate after setting around for a couple of months.
The thing that the gas might be in the.oil can cause the hydro lock I've been there did that on my poulan XT mower so I cut the gas valve off and let the carburetor run out of gas
I ran my craftsman YTS3000 without a new cam. I got most of the pieces out with a magnet. Turned the crank to upstroke, covered the intake and started it up. Ran like a top for several hundred hours before I sold it.
Nice work!
I have a Murray 42 inch cut with a 14hp Briggs & Stratton. I put a new battery and a new solenoid and now I can't get it to turn over can't get it to click can't get it to do anything would it be my starter or would it be in my ignition?
Watch both of my Just Clicks Videos
Fantastic as always. I have seen 7 john deere lawn tractors with busted compression relief pins in the past 2 months. Must be something in the water! Thank you for all your videos. I just love watching !
Thank you
I AllWAYS find the valves are way out of adjustment
I think it causes the failure
Great video! To the point and not a bunch of jacking around finding tools or moving the camera making everybody seasick.
Unfortunately I believe the cam is also wiped in my engine. With so many projects currently on the bench . I think I will just junk the mower and buy a nice used one get 6 or 7 years from it hopefully.
Exactly....this is one of the top channels in this field for sure
Sucks for the owner. Much more work for you too.
That's my mower, that the sound it makes! Thanks!!!
Turn it backwards by hand, then try to start it. If it starts, it's a cam/valve problem.
If it still stops, then pull your plug.
I've been getting mine to start by tuurning by hand backwards, plugging intake with rag then it'll start. Doesn't start everytime though... usually only first thing in morning when it's cool.
I have a Briggs model 422707 which acts like compression slow turnover. Do these have a decompression ability? It has the carburetor in the front and no valve adjustment apparent.
As far as I can see, that is what's called a flathead. It doesn't have compression release cam. Test battery voltage, is it over 12 volts? If no charge or replace battery. If over 12 volts remove spark plug spin engine over and listen. Is it dragging? Or does it spin really fast? So so many things. Slow with plug out, possible bad ground, bad connection, bad starter and more. If I could hear it I could instantly tell ya. Hope this helps ya some. Hard to diagnose in a couple comments.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Thanks, I had been using a 200 amp boost to assist the old battery and had those problems. I ran jumper cables from my truck and turns over fast now, so I think I needed a better battery and more amps.
@@SF-fm7ov please be careful using a vehicle for jumping off a mower. Do not run engine of vehicle while jumping mower, it can melt mower alternator.
That’s a great web site thank you for all your hard work
Man thank for posting this... I got a 26 breaks n scrap'm that's killin batteries and i think i smoked the Sil - starter wire. It does the exact thing though, locks up before the starter can pushi it over hard enough to turn. I'll check the valves but im not sure this video applies to a 2 cylinder.... Seems like though, jus twiste... I'd go check but it wouldnt start across town and it aint here right now.... Anyway thanks.
I had to replace my camshaft on my 17.5 hp Briggs also. My cam lobe was very worn along with the compression release being broken, not a terrible job, it ran like a new mower afterwards. I discovered how bad the lobe was during a valve adjustment while replacing head gasket for oil burning and smoking. Like others say you can mow a while with it by turning the engine backwards until on low spot to help overcome the high compression while cranking. Eventually the lobe wears down too much and mower won’t run with any power. I wish I had done this job in April instead of June in Florida heat, this was about 7 years ago, I now have a Koehler, not sure if I’m better or worse off lol. That Briggs ran great afterwards but that dam 17.5 must all have bad cams.
I had a giant air bubble in my fuel filter.
Hi there Mr and Mrs T Bone, been a great information video,
Have exactly the same issues with my. B&S. 540cc 19 hp. Riding it for like 20 minutes. Cutting the grass, Engine revved up really high that startled me. When I went to turn it back on, that’s what I got. I guess tomorrow I’ll check the gas to see. if the chef broke. Thanks for that video. It really helped me in the knowledge department. Thnks.
Have the exact same mower with the exact same issue. Took it apart and camshaft was not broke. But its back together and adjusted valves. Guess we'll see what happens when I try to crank it up.
I was hoping you would finish the valve adjustment. My exhaust has the little bump. Having issues with hydrolocking.
Rebuilt 3 of them! Compression release. One tore the crap out of the counter weight hangers and everything.
Is there an engine from another manufacturer to replace the POS briggs with a minimum amount of modifications? Honda, Kawasaki, kohler, etc.?
I have the troy bilt 18.5 it's will start one time then hesitate and blow a fuse on the next time starting. I checked for the bump and does have that bump. Bad ground possibly? Fuse blows 2nd start. Thanks
Great job on your videos! One of the best I have seen. Easy to understand. I have subscribed . Thanks
I always tack weld the lobes to the shaft on those after market ones never had a prob!em with them after that two tacks on each lobe
We only use and sell OEM for warranty reasons. I don't want comebacks. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
Always enjoy these videos! Keep rocking TBone✔️💯💪🏽
Glad you like them. Thanks my friend ❤️
Thank you. This video led me to a problem i wouldnt have thought about.
Compression relief symptom / problem brought me here.. or so i thought.
Soon as i got to the valves, exhaust valve was dangling.. holding in the compression..
Tried to adjust it, but the tiny hex allen center screw was locked, non adjustable now.
I couldve been hunting the small part to replace and then waiting on it, but i took the round tipped valve nut / bolt with its siezed adjustment inner screw and Cut it with my cut disk grinder, lower than the stuck screw. So i screwed the thing on, huntin for ideas, then thought to adjust that valve perfect with it, then weld it in. If ever needed to remove the bolt that holds the valve to the head (thats welded on the end, to the rounded valve nut) can be cut with a small dremil and tiny cut disk.. but it should hold up for life as longnas this generator engine is properly handled
But big thanks.. this video got my engine going again, a whole lot easier than i imagined (to have to get all the way into the cam.. on a dang genrator wit big motor to remove first.. whew!
These mowers sell for over 2 thousand now
Briggs & Stratton parts are no better than the parts from Amazon because they all come from China and that’s why I sand casted my own camshaft and gears and it is easier than it looks and fun to do.
Currently dealing with this condition on a simplicity zero turn.
Mine doesn’t turn, just makes a high clicking noise
Check out both of my Just Clicks videos
@@RaleysSmallEngines cheers 🍻
👍👍👍Thanks.
Cool
My camshaft broke, i replaced it put it back together and its still doing the same thing. Any suggestions? Do i need to drain the oil to open the valve cover?
You can remove the valve cover without draining the oil. Just a tiny bit may come out. Set valves to .004 in. Remove spark plug and look for the bump as you turn it over by hand. If it bumps, good. Turn over with key with spark plug out and listen. It's possibly a battery, bad connection at ground to frame or starter. I'm guessing the issue you are having is that it won't spin over.
Yes it want spin. I opened the motor and the camshaft was broke so i cleaned the pieces out and replaced it, put it back together and the motor still want spin. New battery, solenoid , i cleaned the ground wires also
@@squirrelmaster5485 Did you adjust the valves?
@Grrrnthumb i did but i ended up just getting an OEM camshaft and it works now
I see this pretty often still
Just follow simple tests and I like to feel for the compression release
Yep just hold the rocker. Awesome!!
I’ve been watching and checking valves and found out that the valves are way off and the compression release is broken
My personal mower.,bs17 hp 20+ years old and have not changed cam
But I check valves lash twice a season every year
Is that compression release doohickey on vtwins too? Having similar issues on a vtwin intek from about 06
I enjoy watching your videos very much. I saw your tip about sticking a magnet down your oill dipstick tube to see if you can retrieve any compression release parts. I bought a magnet tool and put it in my dipstick tube, but only retrieved a few metal filings. Does this eliminate the possibility that my compression release mechanism is broken?
That is a handy tool. I got lucky on that one, seldom do I retrieve pieces of it. I always rely on looking for that small bump at the rockers when turning the engine over.
I juts bought a brand new huqvarna and this is the noise mine is making when I try to turn it over
15 hp B&S.. the motor runs good. when I turn it off it basically free spins(no spit & sputter like it is trying to stay running) just free spin for about 5 seconds. is this normal?
What causes the sump to crack. 18.5 B&S
I worked for Briggs and stratton in West kentucky until 2019, the push mower engine size. Im annoyed they are making junk like this nowadays on the bigger motors, my rider is doing the same thing.
I agree my friend. I sure miss quality. Nothing we buy these days lasts, so so much waste. So sad.
Nice job T-Bone, didn't take you long to figure that one out. 👍
Hey Mrs T-Bone 👋
It's nice to see less and less of the Kohler 7000 series engines in the repair shop all others especially Briggs & Straton are constantly in for repairs
The 7000 series is a good engine. About the only thing they need is the valve cover upgrade that the “Pro” engines have. I wouldn’t buy a newer single cylinder from Briggs or Kohler.
I literally just blew up my new used kholer john deere. Craftsman of course has a bad compression valve ergo why I'm here lol. Dang grass won't stop growing for anything
I’ve been getting around the issue by turning the engine past the point of the compression release by hand (open palm on top of the fan cover and twist it over). Not ideal but, so far, it works!
Exactly what I’m doing at the moment!
I have the little bump at the intake only? I need to have it on both valve? Thanks for your videos!
Can I run my mower with a broken compression release valve?
Hi T-Bone, I love your YT videos. Today's was awesome. I have had a problem for a year. My mower, intek B&S would turn over just like yours did. Then stop, just like yours except if I held the key over in the start position for two,,three, maybe four seconds longer, it would start spinning and start the engine. I have looked and asked multiple sources and no on could tell me what caused it. Now I finally know what the problem is. It needs a new cam. Thanks T-Bone, mystery solved because of you.
Awesome, thank you. We are glad the video helped you. 😀
Very good I watched your cam swap video and did mine it made it very easy it took a little bit but piece of cake thank you
Awesome, so glad it helped you my friend. I just got the parts in today for this one. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend. Sorry about sound quality, I was having mic issues and didn't realize until filming was done.
Valves need a lashing ...its usually the issue on the small engines
Probably needs it, yes. This one definitely has a bad camshaft. Got the OEM parts in today and Probably gonna film the repair. Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
Nice diagnosis there t-bone 👍
I’ve had that same mower sitting in my back yard for two years and never thought to suck a magnet down the oil shaft!
Remove valve cover, adjust the valves and then look for the bump. You CAN fix it!!! If it's a bad cam, watch the video in the description, it will guide you thru it.
Great video. Straight and to the point. Liked and Subscribed.
BTW I use medical patient lifts AKA "Hoyer lifts" to raise mowers, pick up small engines (they'll easily do a Harley or other touring bike motor) and place 'em on my cart or work bench. I already have a bad back so the time to set up a variety of lifting gear, carts and dollies makes wrenching much easier.
Valve ajustment
Spot on ol boy you pinpointed that right off. Great video
Thanks ol friend
Great video! Helped alot! I did my intek 16.5. Question, should there be a valve cap on the intake valve? There is one on the exhaust but not the intake. What's the risk of running without one? Thanks!
Tell me why the OEM part broke. It happen on mine and I had a resomeable fix , cost nothing other that a slight problem starting. Yes a mechanic and a customer relationship not a viable option.
going on 1 year of use with an amazon cam because grandfather refused to buy oem, hes tighter than a crabs ass lol. guess we got a good machined one. Going to check my mower today and see if my cam went or if the valves need to be adjusted.
i read they can break the first start up after repair, so i took the head off mine and drilled a hole to make my own manual compression relief valve. did this back in 2020 during the sickness when no one could get out or work.
What would cause these symtoms but only when its cold out? My mower during the summer starts and runs perfect in the summer but come fall it will show these symptoms
Thank you
I have already seen taryl videos on that 👍🏻🤘🏻
Heck yeah Taryl is awesome!! Thanks for watching and commenting my friend.
not knocking Taryl , l love his channel but the RaleysSmallEngines channel is my go to for straight to the point info
Great troubleshooting!
Thank you 😊
Great camera work! Subbed.
Thank you
The Real MVP.. Have A Happy Memorial Day Weekend
Is there no way to pull the decompression parts off the cam and get a stronger starter?
Nope. I've seen guys put huge starters & just burn them out, melt wires.It's the GD comp. relief arm inside the engine, OR valve adjustment. I bought a NEW battery & starter before I found all these videos on this problem.
Sometimes I've been getting mine to start by tuurning by hand backwards, plugging intake with rag to stop it from sucking air in... then it'll start. Doesn't start everytime though... usually only first thing in morning when it's cool.
I have the same engine with similar symptoms, but it acts as normal with a bigger battery, like a car battery or booster. ??
I would say you have a cam issue it's just closer to the beginning stage of cam failure.
@@banjoman6223 fml...I think I just have to live with it for now. To much work to take it apart in the spring and summer time.
You and Taryl Fixes All are my top 2 go to channels, I bought a 2012 Ariens with that same engine, it did the same thing, but I got lucky, bad carb cause a hydro lock...Amazon carb for $27 and its been running great....Keep up the good work Sir!
Wow, thank you!!! Great job, glad you got it fixed.
Is yhe bump really noticeable
Yes it is.
Move valves to zero clearance, leave loose. Spin engine with no spark plug. You will see it if it's there.
By leave loose, I mean no need to tighten lock screw.
@@RaleysSmallEngines ok I turned it over by hand a few times and saw no bump. I got a new battery the other day and it was hard to start but started. Now I believe I have wore down the battery so I pit a jumper box on it and it still turns over really slow stopping sometimes. It turns just fine with the plug out though
Ok so what is hydro locked ?
It is when the carburetor is leaking fuel into engine on top of piston. When this happens the piston can't go all the way to the top of the cylinder and engine will feel like it is locked up. Hydro ( liquid) locked. Hope this helps, I'm sure there is a better way to explain it.
@@RaleysSmallEngines Ok got it. Thanks soo much for the quick reply and explanation!
@@RaleysSmallEngines After you replace the carb for a hydrolocked situation, do you have to do something to remove the fuel that is on top of the piston(s)? In other words, what frees them up so it becomes un-hydrolocked?
I had this same exact problem. I had a new battery on it so I knew this wasn't the issue. I simply pulled out the spark plug and spun the engine manually by hand and reinstalled the plug and it ran perfectly.
Yes sir have same problem with my lawn tractor briggs an scrap em i like that thank you for the info
Awesome hope it helps you
Thanx for that one T-Bone. 👍🔧🇬🇧