Thanks for the instructions. I knew I had valve clearance problems because it felt like my engine was hydro locked each time I tried to start it. It’s a happy engine now. Thanks again.
Thanks your comments mean a lot to me. I also got tired of the crappy videos out there. I replaced all the lights in my shop with LED overheads to help out. Made a huge difference. Hang on the videos are going to get crazy from here lol
@@MowerMike don't know how that happened but it's gone 😂 I checked out several vids before hitting on yours and it was like TDC was an afterthought that they just skimmed over not taking a few minutes to explain it like you ! Thanks for the step by step
Thanks for your video! I was having fits trying to adjust the valves because of bad backfiring and a lack of starting. I kept thinking I was doing it wrong because no matter how perfect I thought it was I had a no start condition. Turns out that the flywheel key was sheared and the only way of figuring that out was by removing the cooling intake and mesh screen to check. You could clearly see the key-way in the crankshaft 1/4 turn past where the flywheel key-way was. Only a $6.00 part. I wasn't the original owner, and had no history of symptoms to help me figure it out.
It's the camshaft that has eccentrics that open the valves against the valve springs, not the crank shaft. The engine connecting rods are connected to the crankshaft, not the push rods. If going to the trouble to adjust your valves on any engine, it is not so difficult to adjust them to the published specifications for optimized performance and long life.
Probably means the cam shaft is not lifting it. Will need to take off the oil plan and take a look at the cam. Look at my B&S playlist, it has all the videos you need. Good luck
Great video. You can also use a small piece of paper towel in the hole. Just enough so the compression blows it out. As always not everyone does things the same, and always more than one way to do things!
Thank you sir! I was putting together a video for my riding lawn mower which guess what, had a broken push rod... I put back in a new garbage aluminum one because it was the fastest way to go, but noticed my intake rocker arm was SUPER LOOSEY GOOSEY while putting in the new rod. I'm thinking maybe that actually helped the intake rod snap while flopping around in there hard. Anyway, really appriate your videos!
That is great news, valves have driven me crazy in the past. I would try and fix everything and nothing would change and it was the valves the whole time.
i made it really easy to adjust the valves on my briggs and stratton. took it to the scrap yard,(didn't get much for junk) bought a mower with a kawasaki engine. yard looks good, mower now runs fine. problem solved
I’ve done this on several motors with great success. This time however not so much. When I performed this service on a 21hp 540cc motor in a Craftsman YTS3000 it took multiple attempts before the compression dropped enough for the engine to crank. Valves are currently set at .004/intake and .006/exhaust. Even removed cover again to make sure. Still cranks hard though battery reads 12.9v. Weird thing is now when I shut it off it after fires a few times before stopping. Exhaust smell rich(?). Which way do I experiment with the valve lash to resolve? Greater or lesser lash space? And which one? Intake, exhaust, both?
You say adjust intake valve when piston is at TDC and intake valve is closed on the compression stroke. But you’re not real clear on the exhaust valve . So do you mean to turn the crankshat and adjust piton when its at TDC and adjust exhaust valve when its at the power stroke and fully closed
I am not sure, it won’t hurt anything either way you do it. They probably are just making sure you hit TDC. The valves are at the same at the top as they are 1/4 past. Good question I have wondered the same things.
@@MowerMike on engines with a compression release, you have to back it off 1/4 to reach the lobe on camshaft that operates the release, then set clearance. It's very important or your release won't work correctly or may cause damage. If book says back off, then it must be done.
You can just turn the engine until the exhaust valve is wide open then adjust the intake valve, then turn the engine until the intake valve is wide open and adjust the exhaust valve. Boom done
2 things. 1, At 5:10 in your video, the damn 1/2” BE wrench I have did the same thing as yours. 2, once clearance is good to go, what would cause the cam to be bending the rod when I hand crank the fan at the top? The exhaust valve is not stuck closed. Is it supposed to open as far as the intake on these? If so, then it IS stuck at about half way… Any help is greatly appreciated!!
@@JeremyN1978 Valve guides on the Briggs are known to slip out of their specs-causing all kinds of troubles!!! Try a TH-cam search for… Valve Guides Moved etc. Good Luck 👍
Hello. Thanks for your videos. On my Briggs and Stratton 15.5 OHV, I have one Steel and one Aluminum Push Rod. Is that normal (I had some work done on this a few years ago)? I need to replace the Guide Plate, Push Rods and 1 Rocker Arm. I just wasn't sure if there was a reason for one Aluminum Push Rod - and if so, I can't remember where the Aluminum Rod goes - I didn't pay attention when removing them. Thanks!
@@MowerMike why ? When there are such knowledgeable people like yourself.......its more fun for me ! I love when people know so little about so much. Thats entertainment 🤣
Yep is a design specific to 1997, was a one year deal very special motor. They only did it one year because it couldn’t keep timing with the pushrods running right on the crank. Who woulda figured, probably came from some crazy German Briggs engineer from A&M.
I have had several not sure which one was speaking up on this video though. They are all some type of mutt with half German Shepherd in them. Never heard of a Griffon.
Almost correct. But on all briggs engines weather it's an L-head or OHV the engine needs to not be at TDC on the compression stroke but 1/4" past TDC actually starting the power stroke. This gets the compression release out of play and assures both intake and exhaust valve tappets are resting on the base circle of the cam. This procedure was done incorrectly so many times we actually dedicated an entire yearly dealer service update seminar to instruct dealers the proper procedures
I agree I got a lot wrong in the video such as saying the rods ride on the crank shaft and not the cam shaft lol. But, I am not following you on using the big nut to adjust. Isn’t the big nut just a lock nut and you adjust the set screw? If you just tighten the set screw it will just push on the valve and will totally screw up any adjustment.
You shouldn't change push rods. They are aluminum and steel to distinguish which valve is intake and which one is exhaust. For a novice trying to distinguish which is which. If he got that mower you cha b get the pushrods on that would present a problem for someone else that didn't know and was working on it. For your personal mower that isn't alright. The mower company did that for a reason. And that is not to cause major problems if they fail.
Thanks for the instructions. I knew I had valve clearance problems because it felt like my engine was hydro locked each time I tried to start it. It’s a happy engine now.
Thanks again.
Well done figuring it out, I know it is a relief.
Finally....Simple with good lighting and recording. Subbed
Thanks your comments mean a lot to me. I also got tired of the crappy videos out there. I replaced all the lights in my shop with LED overheads to help out. Made a huge difference. Hang on the videos are going to get crazy from here lol
+Thorough!! Explaining Top dead center is probably the most important point! Thumbs up Bro!
I appreciate it. Not sure what F means but will take it as a compliment haha
@@MowerMike don't know how that happened but it's gone 😂
I checked out several vids before hitting on yours and it was like TDC was an afterthought that they just skimmed over not taking a few minutes to explain it like you !
Thanks for the step by step
This is a good video. No question. I should like to point out that you said the pushrods ride against the crankshaft. They rest on the CAMshaft
Yes yes I know. My father in law made that very clear when I first released this video.
Honest mistake.
Took the words right out of my mouth
Nice and clear and great explanation of TDC and why 👍🙂. I appreciate it.
Hey that is good to hear!
Thanks for your video! I was having fits trying to adjust the valves because of bad backfiring and a lack of starting. I kept thinking I was doing it wrong because no matter how perfect I thought it was I had a no start condition. Turns out that the flywheel key was sheared and the only way of figuring that out was by removing the cooling intake and mesh screen to check. You could clearly see the key-way in the crankshaft 1/4 turn past where the flywheel key-way was. Only a $6.00 part. I wasn't the original owner, and had no history of symptoms to help me figure it out.
Wow that is a great fix. Well done.
Doing this before winter storage...exact same LA145. Txs!
Good call! Make sure to only leave ethanol free fuel in her or you will be replacing the carb in the spring.
It's the camshaft that has eccentrics that open the valves against the valve springs, not the crank shaft. The engine connecting rods are connected to the crankshaft, not the push rods. If going to the trouble to adjust your valves on any engine, it is not so difficult to adjust them to the published specifications for optimized performance and long life.
Yeppers thanks Craneo
Ride-on mower B&S the rod for the intake valve does not move, possible engine damage? Thanks for answers.
Probably means the cam shaft is not lifting it. Will need to take off the oil plan and take a look at the cam. Look at my B&S playlist, it has all the videos you need. Good luck
Great video. You can also use a small piece of paper towel in the hole. Just enough so the compression blows it out.
As always not everyone does things the same, and always more than one way to do things!
I am not following you on your paper towel comment. Are you saying you put it in the spark plug hole??? Am curious
Thank you sir! I was putting together a video for my riding lawn mower which guess what, had a broken push rod... I put back in a new garbage aluminum one because it was the fastest way to go, but noticed my intake rocker arm was SUPER LOOSEY GOOSEY while putting in the new rod. I'm thinking maybe that actually helped the intake rod snap while flopping around in there hard. Anyway, really appriate your videos!
Glad it helped
Thank you sooo much for making this video.
My mower is running like a charm.
You rock.
Your video is to the point and yet covered everything.
🤘🤘🤘
That is great news, valves have driven me crazy in the past. I would try and fix everything and nothing would change and it was the valves the whole time.
Very helpful and straightforward. Thank you
Thanks glad it worked for ya
i made it really easy to adjust the valves on my briggs and stratton. took it to the scrap yard,(didn't get much for junk) bought a mower with a kawasaki engine. yard looks good, mower now runs fine. problem solved
Haha great fix! Check out my last few videos on Kawasaki if ya ever need some help
@@MowerMike yes sir! love the channel & good advice. new sub definitely!
I’ve done this on several motors with great success. This time however not so much. When I performed this service on a 21hp 540cc motor in a Craftsman YTS3000 it took multiple attempts before the compression dropped enough for the engine to crank. Valves are currently set at .004/intake and .006/exhaust. Even removed cover again to make sure. Still cranks hard though battery reads 12.9v. Weird thing is now when I shut it off it after fires a few times before stopping. Exhaust smell rich(?). Which way do I experiment with the valve lash to resolve? Greater or lesser lash space? And which one? Intake, exhaust, both?
Sure doesn’t sound like a valve issue. Maybe a bent pushrod or broke camshaft.
I may be way off but always thought the push rods rode on the camshaft not the crankshaft.
Bingo you are right, my father in law pointed out the same thing. You are a damn good mechanic
Hi i have the same b&s like the one in video..
I adjusted the clearances But still it doesnt want to turn over the engine can you please help
I would make sure it is getting fuel and then check compression
What size shim are you using on the feeler gauge
.005 in
You say adjust intake valve when piston is at TDC and intake valve is closed on the compression stroke. But you’re not real clear on the exhaust valve . So do you mean to turn the crankshat and adjust piton when its at TDC and adjust exhaust valve when its at the power stroke and fully closed
In simple terms you adjust them when they are closed. It really doesn’t matter. They say at TDC because they are both closed at that point
Why does the Briggs manual say to rotate the piston 1/4" down after TDC?
I am not sure, it won’t hurt anything either way you do it. They probably are just making sure you hit TDC. The valves are at the same at the top as they are 1/4 past. Good question I have wondered the same things.
@@MowerMike on engines with a compression release, you have to back it off 1/4 to reach the lobe on camshaft that operates the release, then set clearance. It's very important or your release won't work correctly or may cause damage. If book says back off, then it must be done.
Which valve has the wider gap intake or exhaust?😂
It doesn’t matter just get them clot
Is there a compression release valve on the crank or elsewhere? To adjust the intake at TDC 1/4 down?
Just remove the spark plugs and the fan. With the plugs removed there will be no compression.
i have a 27hp vtwin ohv briggs and stratton and what does TDS mean how do i know when is top dead center im not following ? Thanks
TDC is top dead center. It is when the piston is at its highest point. I go through it in the video
Don’t know if it helps but with mine a 13mm wrench worked better than 1/2
Thanks it does, that 1/2 in a bit loose
Got some revised ones the other day and they're much larger now
Same here. And the Torx screw took a T30.
You can just turn the engine until the exhaust valve is wide open then adjust the intake valve, then turn the engine until the intake valve is wide open and adjust the exhaust valve. Boom done
Mic Drop!!!
Very good idea...time saver..Thanks for the info...
2 things. 1, At 5:10 in your video, the damn 1/2” BE wrench I have did the same thing as yours.
2, once clearance is good to go, what would cause the cam to be bending the rod when I hand crank the fan at the top? The exhaust valve is not stuck closed. Is it supposed to open as far as the intake on these?
If so, then it IS stuck at about half way…
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
@@JeremyN1978check the valve guides. common problem on briggs engines
@@JeremyN1978
Valve guides on the Briggs are known to slip out of their specs-causing all kinds of troubles!!!
Try a TH-cam search for…
Valve Guides Moved etc.
Good Luck 👍
W
What thickness of feeler gauge for intake and exhaust
I usually go with .005in
What l mean it trying start but it going around and around but no start up can you help with my problem.
No idea usually it is a fuel issue.
Fuel pump. Full filter, carb. Check that out. Spray some starting fluid in the air intake of our starts and then dies. It's your fuel flow.
The CAM SHAFT pushes on the push rods!
Question for ya Jim. Does the use of all CAPS mean you are yelling as you type???
I recall reading the valve clearances are different for the intake and exhaust. Are you saying they are both .005?
Yes they are a bit different but .005 will get ya close enough. Google it if you want to be more exact.
@@MowerMike I checked the owners manual and the range is .004-.006 for both intake and exhaust. .005 is fine.
what thickness feeler gauge?
.005 inches is a safe bet
Hello. Thanks for your videos. On my Briggs and Stratton 15.5 OHV, I have one Steel and one Aluminum Push Rod. Is that normal (I had some work done on this a few years ago)? I need to replace the Guide Plate, Push Rods and 1 Rocker Arm. I just wasn't sure if there was a reason for one Aluminum Push Rod - and if so, I can't remember where the Aluminum Rod goes - I didn't pay attention when removing them. Thanks!
Good question. Briggs put in aluminum pushrods it is better to replace them with steel. I have video on this check it out
th-cam.com/video/1nzfPYgpmqY/w-d-xo.html
The aluminum pushrod is aluminum. The exhaust is steel/black.
@@im2yys4u81 WHAT??
@@Leftycraig48 My bad. lmao. The Intake pushrod is aluminum, the Exhaust pushrod is steel/black.
I thought Briggs and Stratton engines were 1/4 past top dead center before you make the adjustment to your valves?
It doesn’t make a difference
Pushrods ride on the tappets, tappets ride on the CAMSHAFT
You should really start your own TH-cam channel. You can call it here is everything Mower Mike is wrong about lol.
@@MowerMike why ? When there are such knowledgeable people like yourself.......its more fun for me ! I love when people know so little about so much. Thats entertainment 🤣
Great video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it. My next video will be on the same topic but much better.
The pushrods ride on the camshaft, not the crankshaft, assuming this is a 4-stroke.
Thanks Geor, you are the 57th person to point that out.
Push rods ride on the crank shaft, huh ?...How does your engine run the valves at half speed to accommodate 4 strokes ?...
Yep is a design specific to 1997, was a one year deal very special motor. They only did it one year because it couldn’t keep timing with the pushrods running right on the crank.
Who woulda figured, probably came from some crazy German Briggs engineer from A&M.
I believe you mean camshaft! The push rods ride on the camshaft not the crank shaft. Unless they are doing something new I don’t know about.
Thanks Darryl.
@@MowerMike NP…..Karl.
@@peterdarlington4117 Haha well done
@@MowerMike I thought you’d like that!
What kind of dog do you have? I was listening to this with headphones and your dog sounds identical to my wirehaired pointing griffon lol
I have had several not sure which one was speaking up on this video though. They are all some type of mutt with half German Shepherd in them. Never heard of a Griffon.
I listen for about a minute then you said the push rod is run off the crankshaft which is not correct it runs off the camshaft goodbye
Excellent catch, you get two gold stars
Buh BYE, critic !
Thanks, 13mm on mine all else the same
Must be a Canadian, glad it helped
you have to get the piston top dead center 🤔 not 😁😁😁
Details details
Note that this design of engine should never use oil rated higher that API SJ and should be changed often!
I have no idea what you mean but I like it!
Walker Cynthia Garcia Larry Rodriguez Charles
Thank you.
You are welcome
You left out going 1/4" past TDC. Pretty sure all briggs call for that.
They do but I never bothered with it. I don’t think it really matters
Almost correct. But on all briggs engines weather it's an L-head or OHV the engine needs to not be at TDC on the compression stroke but 1/4" past TDC actually starting the power stroke. This gets the compression release out of play and assures both intake and exhaust valve tappets are resting on the base circle of the cam. This procedure was done incorrectly so many times we actually dedicated an entire yearly dealer service update seminar to instruct dealers the proper procedures
Wow an entire seminar on setting valve clearance for mower engines. You should show this video at the seminar! Lol this is the problem fellas.
all wrong, you need to adjust with the big nut and while holding it in place tighten the set screw.
I agree I got a lot wrong in the video such as saying the rods ride on the crank shaft and not the cam shaft lol. But, I am not following you on using the big nut to adjust. Isn’t the big nut just a lock nut and you adjust the set screw? If you just tighten the set screw it will just push on the valve and will totally screw up any adjustment.
Barry you are thinking Kohler motors they are opposite on the Briggs. Just found that out
My owners manual shows 0.25" past TDC
I really don’t think it makes a difference but excellent point. Most manual say a touch last TDC but I think that is just making sure you get to TDC.
Pretty sure it’s because the motor doesn’t fire exactly on TDC, just right before TDC
@@MowerMike its does make a difference. It affects compression release
These are Metric motors and use a 13mm wrench NOT 1/2
Duh
that ain't the way Tarryl does it
You really shouldn’t be watching me. I am not qualified
@@MowerMike that ain't the way Tarryl Jr. does it either, or his other brother Tarryl
You shouldn't change push rods. They are aluminum and steel to distinguish which valve is intake and which one is exhaust. For a novice trying to distinguish which is which. If he got that mower you cha b get the pushrods on that would present a problem for someone else that didn't know and was working on it. For your personal mower that isn't alright. The mower company did that for a reason. And that is not to cause major problems if they fail.
I totally disagree
You can tell by which valve is near the carb and which is near the exhaust.
Yikes! Push rods are actuated by the camshaft Not the crankshaft.
Thanks for the 74th guy to call me out on that
You keep saying crank shaft...it is the cam shaft
Thanks Mark!
Taylor Kenneth Brown Barbara Brown Larry
Its camshaft NOT crankshaft
Thanks. You are officially the 73rd person to point this out. Well done
Camshaft... pushrods ride the camshaft.
Yes yes yes, my father in-law also corrected me.